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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 6, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OHEGOXIAX. PORTLAND, SEPTE3IBER 6, 1908. v.1 MM . - - J I I .11 J , 5 (5PEA0TY New Ways of : Serv ing Chops Some Etiquette Hints for Fall Brides Some Smart Models for the Fall Days T k E hav just passed through lf very restless year of fashions, Extreme styles hare been Intro duced, and died within a month. The princess, like all extreme styles, was overdone, much abused, worn for a time, and then modiste .turned their attention to the development of the empire garment. For Indoor frocks they were pretty, though becoming to the tall slender woman only. Then the much-advertised sheath k,irt was her alded, but it will never be adopted by the conservative American woman. All the Kail models of skirts, how ever, are what Is known as sheath fitting. That la. they must cling to the figure, and fit the waist and hip line perfectly, without wrinkle or dart. The pleated skirt has been put aside with last year's garments, and the up-to-date girl Is wearing circular skirts with all her smart costumes. Just now. early In the Fall, we see a great many plain coats and striped skirts, but whether this fashion will last into the Winter is a question. However, it is a practical fashion for a girl who has a dark blue or brown coat. let over from a suit, the skirt of which 1 worn. Figure A represents a very smart skirt for a trim little figure. It is a two-piece circular cut with panel in serted In front. The fancy buttons were matte of soutache braid forming loops and large knots of the braid forming a button effect. The braid should match the color of the dark stripe in the goods. This is not a model which could be worn by a stout woman, but is most attractive on the lithe, young girl. This is a charming model for any goods that has been sponged and shrunk, such as serge. Panama cloth, mohair, cheviot, etc It would not develop well In voile or any goods without body. Such a skirt would require five yards of goods of 42-inch width. If the cloth runs full double width or B4 inches, then four yards would be sufficient. Figure B shows a very stylish treat ment of stripes, an effect which is not difficult to secure. The skirt is sheath fitting about waist and hip line, and falls In a full flare about the ankle and feet. Here Is a skirt that is be- J coming to almost every figure, particu tire, particu- . It gives her J id great care I larly to the stout woman. a long line in the front, and Breads for DESPITE3 the many varieties of breakfast breads which the bake shop around the corner offers, the thrifty housewife still bakes her own dainties. The success or fail ure of baking breakfast bread depends largely upon the flour used, as some brands of flour make good pastry, other brands will make a better bread dough. This Is to be found out only by experience. It is almost impossible to get a good pure brand of corn .meal in the North. The pure white meal of the South will give a delicious flavor to bread that the Inferior quality of the Northern brand would never lend to it. Here are some recipes which may be tempting enough to try. Huckleberry C'akest Mix together two eggs, whites and yolks together, and add to them two cupa of milk. In to this sift two large cups of flour, to which has been added two teaspoons of baking powder. Add to the batter one pint of large huckleberries, which have ben washed and picked over. Bake on a thick iron griddle in the shape of griddle cakes, and cook slow ly. Spread the cakes with butter and sprinkle with sugar. Pile- five on a large plate In the manner of a layer cake, and cut in wedge-shaped pieces and serve piping hoL Pop-overs i The great secret of suc cessful popovers Is to have the batter thin. Just as soon as you make a thick batter, you have muffins Instead of popovers. They should be baked in heavy cups the Scotch ware being the best. Without separating the whites and yolks, beat together two eggs, and add to them one pint of milk. In an other deep bowl put half a pint of the egg and milk mixture onto the flour, and a liberal dash of salt. Pour the egg and milk mixture onto the flour and salt, beating with great vigor all the time you are slowly pour ing It in. If the batter Is the least bit rough, strain through a sieve to make perfectly smooth. Fill cups two-thirds full, and bake In a very quick oven. Beaten BUraltst This Is a recipe that has made the Southern cooks famous. The dough for these biscuits Is more of the constituency of pastry than ordinary dough. Mix one pound of well-sifted flour with three ounces, of lard, and a gill and a half of water. Beat the dough until light. These bis cuits should be shaped with the hands, very small In size. They should be pricked several times with a fork, and baked In a quick oven. w England Pwffai Into a cup and a half of flour, add a liberal pinch of Gifts for College Girls WITH college girls packing their trunks for a year away from home, fond relatives and generous friends often desire to contribute some useful gift for the girl's outfit. Here re a few suggestions that will prove helpful. In the first place, remember that all college girls are not alike. Some go In for athletics and some for pink teas, it college as well as at home, and the thoughtful giver will consider the girl's tastes before selecting a gift. For the studious girl, there Is no nicer gift than a year s subscription to her favorite magazine. If possible the periodical that deals with her chosen profession, art. literature, philanthropy, etc A timely gift for a freshman Is a fountain pen or one of the various ink pencils, which she will find most use ful In the lecture-room. A camera with which to record college days and pranks is always welcome, and for the girl who already has a camera, you can get books for mounting photo graphs in many sizes and all sorts of bindings. ' 'From Day to Day" or "A Line a Day" are useful, leather-bound diaries or memoranda books In which the col lege girl will Jot down things to be remembered, and an engagement cal endar of liberal proportions la equally helpful. The hospitable girl will appreciate a ihaflng dish, a box of pretty Japanese japer napkins, or odd cups, saucers and slates. She will also like a set of j artty aprons of diminutive size to must be taken to match the stripes exactly, so that the downward-turning "V" effect formed by the stripes is per fect in symmetry. The side seam pre vents the undue sagging at the hip line. This particular model was seen in a black and white striped Imported cheviot material, and was worn with a plain black serge Jacket. The skirt was flnfshed off with a deep hem, with several rows of stitching of black silk Ilm Fig. Cj Plain Circular Skirt. thread. A mohair braid was then sewn on by hand on the bottom of the skirt, with about an eighth of an inch show ing. This served to keep the bottom of the skirt from soiling. Both figures A and B have Inverted plates at the back of the skirt. Figure C represents the true circular skirt without fullness at back, sides or front. This model is suitable only for plain materials. It opens at the left side of the front and is finished off with a row of buttons extending to the bottom of the skirt. If made in walking length the goods should be of heavy material, and before the skirt Is finished at the bottom, the waist bind ing should be sewn on, and the skirt Breakfast salt, and a scant teaspoon of baking powder, and one tablespoon of granu lated sugar. In another bowl cream a tablespoon of butter and the beaten yolks of two eggs. To this egg and butter mixture, add alternately a little of the dry mixture and one and one half cups of milk, . and lastly the whipped whites of the two eggs. Bake In greased muffin tins In a quick oven, f Some women add one-half teaspoon 01 vanilla to this recipe. Coffee Rolls: From your regular bread dough take enough to make about a quart. Work into this dough a large tablespoonful of melted butter, and half a cup of sugar. Then knead into this mixture one cup of dried cur rants which have been washed, dried and dusted with flour. Make Into small rolls, dip in melted butter, let them rise and bake until brown. Romalne Salad with Cheese An ex cellent accompaniment for cold meat or an aspic dish. Select the crisp leaves only from a head of romalne lettuce. Dip these into a French dressing, then cover with thin slices of skinned tomatoes, which have also been dipped in the French dressing. On top of the tomato lay thin slices of Swiss or Port du Salut cheese, which have been spread lightly with French mustard. At the side of each plate lay two tiny bread and butter sand wiches, made of rye bread cut very thin. Pineapple Ice. An inexpensive frozen dessert. Grate a fresh, ripe pineapple into a large earthen bowl, stir into It the strained Juice of one lemon and a syrup made from two cups of water boiled with one cup of sugar and a tablespoon of gel atln which has been soaked for an hour or more In cold water. When the mix ture Is cool, turn Into the freezer, freeze firmly, serve in glasses with a maraschino cherry on top of each, and small cakes like lady fingers or maccaroona. Eiz In Aspic In a large saucepan three-quarters full of boiling water, pour two tablespoons of vinegar and a small tablespoon of salt. Into this drop very carefully six fresh eggs. Poach these three minutes, remove carefuly with skimmer, and lay them In Ice water for five minutes. When chilled, remove them, trim neatly In circular or square shapes, and arrange on a clean cloth to dry. Melo half a cup of asplo Jelly, place the eggs each In a strong paper case, such as you use for creamed fish, entrees. etc, cover each one with Jelly and place In the Ice box until the Jelly is set. Serve Individually on a leaf of lettuce heart with mayonnaise on the side. wear when making fudge and chafing dish mysteries. The girl of domestic type who fusses with making her room dainty will like pretty kimonos, and she can never have too many of these, and pretty slippers. She- will like cushions and fresh cushion-covers, notably those of the wash variety, either in lawn delicately embroidered or flowered cretonne. A pretty gift for such a girl is a bed room set in dainty china, including a tray, small pitcher for Ice water, can dlestick and matchbox, which she places at night 'beside her bed. She will like a dainty vase or Jardinere for her wee fern, and she Is the sort of girl who dotes on frilled pin cushions and all sort of tapestry covered boxes for her bureau. MARY DEAN. How to Tell Pare Water. People not Infrequently come home from a Summer vacation. If not with typhoid, at least with bad malaria or stomach disorder. This is often caused by Impure water, and It is well, especially in going into the country, where wells are used, to know a few simple tests by which the condition of the water can be told. About the simplest Is one that Is well known, called the Hirsch test. Buy a pint bottle of clear glass, preferably with a glass stopper. Fill it two-thirds full with water, to which Is added a half tea spoon ful of granulated sugar. Cork the bottle tightly and stand in the light in a warm" room for forty-eight hours. If at the end of that time the water is cloudy or milky-looking, it is unlit for use. hung up for several days. This gives the material a chance to sag. A skirt of this cut should be hemmed by hand, as it Is bound to sag in time, and must be altered from the bottom not from the waist line. Figure D represents one of the. Jaun tiest costumes for early Fall wear. The Jacket is a one-button cutaway, the deep revers, which are so becoming, being covered with heavy silk. The cuffs match the revers. The Jacket Is edged all about with the silk, but this could be cha-nged by using a matching silk braid if preferred. Serge or cheviot.makes a most practical suit of this character, and the silk trimming should be of heavy moire. The skirt is a 15-gored model, and the striped trim ming may be eliminated entirely. Both the coat and the skirt make excellent models for separate wear. Many of last season's very full pleated skirts can be rlppea up, sponged, pressed and cut over Into a more up-to-date gored model. There are certain materials which can even be turned wrong side out, and In such cases you would practically have an entire new aklrt to start In the season. Long skirts are to be worn in the house, and for handsome calling cos tumes. But" skirts for general street wear should clear the ground by an inch and a half or two Inches. The woman who dona a long trailing skirt for out-door wear should have a car riage. Very few skirts are lined In these days. Even the .most expensive models found In smart shops are made up with out lining of any sort. It Is a fore gone conclusion that you will have a silk petticoat harmonizing in color with the skirt. If silk Is beyond the capacity of your purse, then buy one of the many cotton lining materials found under various fancy names. Make a tight-fitting petticoat of this and add a silk ruffle. A petticoat of this material generally outlasts those made of silk. At the lining counter !s to be found a combination of silk and linen, costing about 35 cents a yard, which is excellent for this purpose. Petticoats to be worn with these new skirts must fit perfectly. There should be no full ness, no gathers at the back, no full ness on the hips, no suggestion of "bunchlness" at all. And lastly, or perhaps more correctly speaking, your corset should fit you Fnugly, holding down the flesh about the hip. MARY DEAN. A VEW SKIRT THAT r O.N ED Chops With Mush roo j These chops should bean Inch and a quarter thick, cut from the loin, the bone then carefully removed, some of the fat taken out. and the thin end piece drawn around and fastened with a wooden skewer, giving a perfectly round chop. Have them uniform in size. Cook them in a hot pan. turning them frequently after the surfaces are FJg. A. A Circular Skirt With Pannel. seared, so they will cook evenly and slowly. If preferred, they can be broiled over the hot coals, but they are rather likely to lose their shape and the skewers will be burned. Now ar range the chops flat on a dish with the skewers pointing out. Cover the top of each chop with a sauce made of chopped mushroom stems, and place In the center of each chop a large mush room cap. Place .a paper frill over each skewer. In the center of the ring of chops put green peas or any small vegetable, or else use mashed or fried potatoes. WILL GIVE A SATTY TOUCH TO THE mm nCTOBER remains a popular month for weddings. It is a month which lends Itself admirably to Interior decorations, because the aeters and Au tumnal leaves are at their best, with chrysanthemums on the market in many sections of the country. It is also a de cisive month In fashions, and no bride wants to waste her trousseau on be-tween-season modes. Finally and most Important, tradition and sentiment have marked It for their own. While the bridal month remains prac tlcally unchanged, bridal customs change with each generation. For instance, when our mothers were married, It was the custom of the bride prospective to remain Ui seclusion from the day on which her wedding Invitations were issued until the day of her marriage, barring, perhaps, a farewell service at church. All this has changed. At first the bride and her par ents began by entertaining,, in a quiet way, the bridal party. From this mild dissipation, ante-bridal weeks developed Into a miniature social ovation for the bride and groom-to-be. Intimate friends now vie with other in giving exclusive little dinners, luncheons and even dances. Especially if the bridal attendants come from out of town, there is much gaiety during the week Immediately preceding the wedding. Generally the bridal at tendants living in town entertain for those from out-of-town, while the bride-to-be gives a luncheon for her maids, or the parents of the bride give a dinner, fol lowed by a small dance for the entire bridal party, with, perhaps, a few Inti mate friends, and the groom gives a bachelor dinner for his best man and ushers. Even when such elaborate entertaining Is not on the cards, a dinner or so, and luncheon, may be anticipated, while the entertainment of out-of-town relatives or bridal attendants will entail some social duties upon the bride, so, taken altogeth er. It behooves her to be prepared. In the first place, she should have her trousseau well out of the way at least a fortnight previous to the wedding day. The over-worked, over-wrought, harried bride, burdened with final stitches. Is no longer in vogue. She Is expected to have her trousseau out of the way and play her social role with serene face and steady nerves. Another very important reason why all sewing should be finished Is the task of acknowledging wedding gifts. Time was that a bride wrote these FALL COSTUME. acknowledgments, either during her pro longed wedding tour or on her return from a short one, but good form now de crees that these notes must be written before leaving on the tour, unless a gift is heedlessly sent on the morning of the wedding by some procrastinating person. Gifts may be expected within 24 hours af ter the invitations are issued, and If the bride will set aside each day a certain hour, if her circle of friends bo small, or Flr. B. Bias Effect of Stripes. two, if they bs many, she will not find the task a burdensome one. A great many brides have written ask ing me what is expected of the bride at a ".shower," and is it correct to have such a function given In the bride's own home. A shower is what might be termed a po lite and Impulsive donation party, .and no girl -of delicate feeling would permit her own mother or sister to Issue Invitations for such a function. It Is usually given soon after the engagement Is formally an nounced, never directly preceding the wedding day. A friend Invites a few In timates to spend the afternoon or for a luncheon, in honor of the bride, and each guest is Informed that she Is expected to bring a little gift for the guest of honor, generally something of a purely domestic nature. There are showers of tinware, and showers of household linen, showers of crockery and showers of lingerie, but In any case, nothing, expensive or elabo rate is expected. Dusters, and tea towels, sweeping caps, odd little aprons, sleeve protectors, etc, are suitable for linen showers, and In crockery something quaint, like an odd Jug or plate or pud ding dish Is In better taste than a piece of fine ware. These gifts are sometimes distributed from a huge crepe or tissue paper pie, which forms the centerpiece on the luncheon table, or at an afternoon tea, they are brought into the room with the refreshments In some odd receptacle. Beautifying Muddy Complexions OF all complexion ailments, that of the "muddy." skin is; perhaps the most inexcusable arid the easiest to cure. Almost Invariably this trouble can be traced .directly to some chronic yet curable affection of organs whose function it is to purify the system, yet which have become' so torpid and in active that the entire system Is clogged. A very common . poison of this sort in the system, particularly among women. Is due to improper breathing. The lungs are the natural ventilators and purifiers of the blood, but when their owner is ' too indifferent or' too lazy to use them properly,, the blood is not purified. It thickens and settles here and there at different points of the veins and arteries through which It should go with a race and a rush, and bad circulation and sluggish feel ings are the inward effect of which the sluggish, muddy skin Is the out ward token. Look to your breathing. Are you breathing from just the upper part of your lungs or does your diaphragm ex pand and contract with your breath ing? Do you naturally take long, deep breaths or short, panting ones? If you stand up erect and suddenly try to take a long. full, deep breath, does it hurt the muscles around your waist line and over your ribs? If It does, be sure you are using only part of your lungs, and that part too rapidly, so that the blood Is becoming more and more sluggish, more and more vitiated. You need deep breathing and here are some exercises to start with. On arising and the last thing before going m bed while vou are still clad in your nightdress. stand with your back against the window or door and fill your lungs, breathing through the nos trils with the mouth closed, until your lungs can hold no more. Retain the breath while you count four. Expel It through the nose, counting seven. Next stand upright and turn out the toes so that the heels touch. Place your hands on your hips, the fingers on the diaphragm, the thumbs back in the soft part of the back on' the other side of the spinal column. Now draw In a deep breath and force the air down, so that you feel the air pressed out through the expansion of the lower part of the lungs. Hold the breath while counting four, expel -while you count seven. Practice this movement six times. Next stand upright, head up. shoul ders thrown hack, arms hanging at the sides. Now gradually raise the arms until they are high above the head. While you are performing this move ment take in a dep breath through the nostrils until the lungs tan hold no more. Retain the breath while counting four, then gradually lower the arms, and at the same time expel the breath and count seven. Repeat this six times. Practice these more and more fre quently and watch between exercises that you do not resume the short, catchy breathing. In time the deep breathing will become habitual, and whether your muddy complexion Is due to this entirely or to a complication of causes, deep breathing is bound to give you a better color. Another very common cause of the muddy skin, is kidney trouble, and for this ailment you should have the ad vice of the best physician at your com mand. If the kidneys are simply slug gish, and no organic disease betrays its presence, then the simplest and most effective remedy Is drinking quantities of cool, not iced, water in which Llthia tablets are dissolved, a tablet to a glass of water. At least one quart of water should be drunkln 12 hours, al ways between meals, not at table. But by far the most common cause of a thick, muddy complexion Is dis orders of the digestive system. Thou In fact, a shower Is properly a function for intimate girl friends only, where Jokes and pranks may be played, and the gifts should not be a burden or Interfere in any. way with the selection of the wed ding gilt proper. When the bride and groom prospective are entertained at a dinner Given In hon or of themselves and the wedding party, the bride is taken out to dinner by the host and sits on his right. The groom escorts his hostess, and sits on ber left. At a dance given In honor of a bridal party, eacll man must seek a dance with the bride and her attendants. They con stitute a circle of honored guests to whom chief attentions must be paid. A question often propounded by girls whose mothers have died Is this: "Who issues my wedding Invitations?" If the father has 'never married again, the wedding Invitations are issued In his name, thus: "Mr. James Barton Treynor requests the honor of your presence, etc" If the father has married, the invita tions may run, "Mr. and Mrs. James Bar ton Treynor request the honor of your presence at the marriage of their daugh- ' ter, Mabel, etc.," or the words "MY. Trey nor'o daughter, Mabel" may be Inserted. The latter is perhaps the more formal and correct wording, but It is less kindly, perhaps, to the step-mother. However, when the father has died and the mother has married again, the formal phraseolo gy is preferable, almost obligatory, as the girl generally retains her own father's surname. In this case, the reading is: "Mr. and Mrs. Henry Vincent Stewart request the honor of your presence at the marriage of Mrs. Stewart's daughter, Mabel Treynor, to etc" If both father and mother are dead and the bride lives with an unmarried brother, the invitations are issued in his name. "Mr. George Treynor requests the honor of your presence at the marriage of his sister, Mabel," etc. If she is married from the home of a sister already mar rleJ. .the invitations are Issued in the Joint name of the brother-in-law and sister. If she Is married from the home of a friend, having no near relatives, then the oards run: The pleasure of your company Is re- ' quested at the marriage of Miss Mabel Treynor to Mr. James Lanier Browne ( On Tuesday, October the 13th at twelve noon at the residence of Mr. and Mrs. Ormonde Johnson ' Fifteen Calumet Place. If the wedding Is a quiet affair with only a few witnesses, no invitations are issued, but cards reading thus are mailed the afternoon of the wedding day: "Mr. James Lanier Browne and Miss Mabel Treynor have the honor of announcing their marriage on Tuesday, October the twelfth nineteen hundred and eight, at the First Baptist Church, Quincy, 111." PRUDENCE! STANDISH. sands of women suffer from Indigestion in its mildest form and are not aware of the fact because they feel no sharp pain gnawing at the pit of the stomach. Indigestion and mal-assimllatlon of , food are more often betrayed by slug gish feelings and sluggish skins than by acute pain. , The digestive organs and the bowels must be kept clean If the skin Is to be clear and pure. Here again pure, cool water plays an important part. At first It is well to drink very hot water, freshly boiled, night and morning, to thoroughly cleanse the digestive sys tem. A dash of lemon or bicarbonate of soda may be added to the water, or tablets, which can be bought of any druggist, consisting of charcoal and pepsin, can be dissolved In the water to aid the process of digestion. The cold water can then be drunk between meals. If you think you must eat meat, then take chicken, turkey, beef (roasted or broiled, never fried) and lamb, but leave pork and veal alone. Gradually substitute nuts, which may be ground' or chopped, and salads, made with high grade olive oil dressing, for these meats. If you are not inclined to stout ness, eat quantities of rice, macaroni and potatoes. If you are afraid of taking on too much flesh, turn to other vegetables, especially fresh salads. Never touch pastry or hot breads or hot cakes for breakfast, and avoid wines. Chew your food thoroughly and eat slowly. I do not advise dropping tea and coffee abruptly, but If you nave either habit, gradually curtail the quan tity you drink until it is no longer a necessity and you can alternate it with milk. Avoid powerful laxatives. If you need anything of this sort, try a simple fig paste, formula for which I will be glad to supply on receipt of self-addressed and stamped envelope. KATHERINE MORTON. Fruition. Kansas City Journal. "First the blade, then the ear, after that the full corn in the ear." Mark lv:28. The "Mads" was sprouted In the miity dawn. When from a molten mais the earth was drawn. This fact to see. reqnires no seer nor sage. That seldom mPn are better than the a In which their lot Is cast while aere below. God's chosen people of the long- ago. But few removes from barbarism seem: Their light of righteousness was but a gleam. They groped their feeble way front Pyra mid - To Promised Land then down to Baal they slid. Egyptian culture came, and then the Greek: Then Roman Legions conquered strong and weak. The Anglo-Saxon sway completes the "Ear." Now Twentieth Century day dawns bright and clear. The mangled corpse of Hector dragged afar To grace the triumph of Achilles' car; The s-uman torches lighting Nero's fete; The Wars of Caesar tho' they made Rome great; Napoleon's conquests tho they shook the world; All proved the Banner of the Cross was furled. In this glad hour compared with all the past We thank High Heaven, our happier lot Is cast. Discords still linger in the Harp of Man; Attune Its golden strings as best we can. The might of Wealth still grinds the feeble Poor. The day will come when this shall be no more. Then Brotherhood of Man will burn and glow. And Fatherhood of Ood all men shall know. Eons of Time from birth to death must spaa The mundane history of the life of Man. From sparkling dewdrop on the violet. To farthest planet, we must not forget God Alls the spaces vast with Love Divine. And wills It that His humblest child sha.ll shine Resplendent, midst the Jewels of His crown! "The Full Corn in the Ear" will there bs found. "WARREN E. COMSTOCK. .