The Sunday Oregonian., August 16, 1908, Magazine Section, Page 8, Image 48

TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, AUGUST 16, 1908.
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BT FRANK G. CARPENTER.
m HAVE bren mandericg for days about
I tbe Niagara of Africa. Its awful won-
m ders crov upon me ana i am appauca
at It grandeur. Away off here In the
wilds of the black continent, far below
the equator, several hundred miles south
of Lake' Tanganyika, as 'far north
of Cape Town as Galveston la
distant from New York, hundreds
of miles west of the Indian
Ot-ean, and still farther from the At
lantic. Is one of the grandest natural
features of old Mother Earth. It Is the
falls of the mighty Zambesi, one of the
great rivers of the globe. It has been
compared to the falls of Niagara. Now
that I have seen both, I find It almost Im
possible to liken one to the other. Each
Is of its own kind and each beyond de
scription beautiful. From the point of
striking views, and) as a, raging convulsion
of nature, I should call Victoria Falls by
far the greater. The two may be com
pared to a play. Niagara Is a drama with
but one act. Victoria is equally great, but
of many acts and many scenes, each of
which has features of Us own.
As to the volume of water, the Niagara
falls probably surpass those of the Zam
besi, for over them pours the watershed
of half a continent. The great basin of
Ike Superior is (CO feet above the At
lantic, and almost one-third of Its drop Is
at Niagara. The Zambesi has Its source
In a swamp which lies a mile above the
sea and its waters have already fallen
anoo feet In their course of SOO miles before
they make their mighty drop Into this
fcaealtic gorge.
The falls of the Zambesi are twice as
broad and more than twice as high
Niagara. The river Is two miles wide
ebove the falls, and It narrows to a mile
where It plunges straight down ftver the
'cliffs Into a gorge which Is more than 400
feet deep. I heard the thunder of Its
waters when I was more than 10 miles
distant, and the spray, which rises up in
live great columns, can be seen SO miles
way. The natives call the falls "Thun
dering Smoke," and they are said, to wor
ship them.
As to the electric force which may be
generated, it Is said to be greater than
that of Niagara, but I will write of that
in the future.
In the Heart of the Wilderness.
Of these two mighty wonders of nature.
that of the Zambesi has by far the best
natural setting. Niagara has been de
stroyed by commercialism. One goes
Jong Its gorge In an electric trolley;
upon landing he is fought for by guides
and hotel keepers, and the peddler and
fee hunter tag at hie heels. The manu
facturing cities of Buffalo and Toronto
foul the air with their smoke, and the
factories which use the power turn the
sublime into the sordid.
Victoria Falls Is in the heart of a wil
tfprness. It is surrounded by a forest
filled with monkeys, baboons, antelopes
and other will game. There are birds of
strange plumage in the trees, and the
frreat river itself has many hippopotami.
gtanding here upon the porch of the VIc-H
toria Hotel, one looks for miles over a
land densely wooded. With a powerful
zlass you can see nothing but this vast
expanse of green, broken only by the
windings of the gorge at your feet, and
by the pillars of mist which rim like the
vapor from five volcanoes until lost In
the low-hanging clouds. The only settle
ments near the falls are Livingstone,
which is seven miles off, and the group
of Iron bungalows which comprise the
liotel, the railroad station and the post
office. Everything is in harmony with
the surroundings, and it is tbe intention
of the people to keep it so.
All the land within a radius. of five
milex of the falls has been set aside as a
public park, which is to be left as nature
made it. Outside that radius Is another
of 15 miles on one side the river, and on
the other a block of forest SO miles
square, which will prevent farms or
buildings of any kind marring the falls.
In these woods no shooting is allowed. I
have met droves of monkeys as I wan
dered from fall to fall, and at times have
made my way In the very tracks In which
hippopotami had traveled the night be
fore. Railroads and Hotels.
Notwithstanding all this, the Zambesi
Falls may be seen with almost as many
comforts as Niagara. There are now
trains de luxe, with dining cars, obser
vation cars and bathing accommodations,
which bring one from Cape Town or
Belra; and the little hotel herev although
It Is built of galvanized Iron, Is almost
equal to those at Niagara, in comforts
and prices. All the rooms are on the
ground floor, and nm are well fur
nished. I have a suits of four. Including
a parlor, dreeslng-room bedroom and
bathroom. My apartment is lighted by
electricity and la cooled by an electric
tfan. The parlor Is carpeted, and it boasts
piano. The xata I pay for myself and i
son Is $1 per oay, which is not extrava
gant, considering that we are far off In
the wilds. As to our meals, we have
three every day, and In addition, a cup
of coffee on rising, and. an afternoon
tea. Our table waiters are natives in
uniform, and our chambermen are black
boys in white gowns.
On the Zambesi Bridge.
But come with me and take a look at
the falls. We shall first stroll down to
the Zambesi bridge which crosses the
gorge through which the mighty river
flows after it leaves the falls. lou
have probably heard of this bridge. It
In the highest In the world and one of
the biggest. It was made In England,
and brought out here in sections and put
together. It Is 400 feet above the- water,
and It Jumps from rock to rock In a
span of 660 feet. The spray falls upon
the cars of the Cape-to-Calro railroad as
hey pass over It; and travelers will
have a glimpse of -the falls as they go
by.
Standing upon this bridge a great
tower or mass of green rock rises before
us. It bisects, as It were, the narrow
gorge, and the whole flood of the Zam
besi bolls and seethes below. The waters
are yellow, and they look like a vat of
steaming molasses. Opposite the tower
Is a mass of green far down In a second
gorge. It Is made up of palms and
other trees. It is known as the palm
kloof, and is a great botanical garden
kept only by nature, and Infested with
monkeys and baboons. It contains date
trees, tree ferns, baobabs and a Jungle
of smaller trees.
The' Eastern Falls.
leaving the bridge, we take our first
view of the cataract from its eastern
end. The way Is along green paths, un
der green trees, where the ground is so
level that we cannot see the falls until
we are close to them. The great river
Two and aThirdjaStory of the Sea
THINGS happen more quickly on
shipboard than elsewhere, always
excepting the Riviera expresses. Be
tween departure and arrival it Is possi
ble for a beautifully-complete-ln-every-detail
life tragedy to be enacted. And
on certain Vners it Is even possible to be
introduced though this can be dispensed
with engaged, married, divorced, and re
engaged to someone else, and all within
the period. In which the Almighty created
the world. This, of course, may be an
exaggeration, and you can believe Just
as much as you choose; but it is certain
that valuable experiences can be crammed
Into the space of a voyage, whose lesson
should be extremely valuable, and should
with care last quite a long time.
Miss Charterls met Dekker ten minutes
after the boat left Bombay, and their ac
quaintance ripened like rye In a soft
wind and southern sun. Having nothing
to do and plenty of time to do it In, and
Dekker being dark and Interesting, and
likely to be in considerable favor in the
drawing-room, -Miss Charteris placed her
self entirely at his disposal during the
long-drawn-out . days. Dekker, knowing
that he could have nothing better to do,
and also having plenty of time to do it in,
made tho most of his opportunities.
There was no danger -in this no foolish
risk of singed wings or of cracked hearts.
Both Dekker and Miss Charteris knew
exactly the game the other was playing,
and each knowing it, proceeded to get the
fullest satisfaction out of It. In this
way much, of the tedium of the voyage
was dispelled. -
If Dekker ever thought that Miss Char
teris might be caring for him a little
mora than was absolutely necessary, he
was always disabused of this Idea when
Miss Charteris looked at him from under
her long lashes and smiled. The smile
made things to stand out in their due
Dronortion as clear as' the tropic dawn.
and if Miss Charteris ever really thought
that Dekker might be letting slip a little,
and relaxing bis sure grip of himself, she
always knew that her fears were foolish
when he commenced each fresh day as
frankly and as easily as he had left oft
the previous night.
On this very satisfactory Dasis, miss
Charteris and Dekker managed 'to get as
much solid enjoyment out of .the voyage
as "any other two of the passengers put
together and cubed. The other passen
gers knew this, and it did not improve
their tempers or tneir opinion 01 Miss
Charteris when she was not present.
Both Miss Charteris and Dekker knew
this, but with their perfect understanding,
and in its full security, they only
laughed. The other passengers heard
them, and Miss Charteris character be
came as ths flag which has braved the
battle and the breeze, a thing of shreds
and patches.
This is where Cantrell entered the story.
Cantrell was fair and youthful, and be
lieved In ths glory and universal good
ness of women. Reduced to workable
dimensions, this meant that he admired
Miss Charteris, who was beautiful In a
atalely. handsome kind of way. Had
I 3 THE. HEAflT OP AF&ICA
bursts upon us all at once. It Is dash
ing over the rocks, falling hundreds of
feet, striking with a noise like a cannon
ade of artillery. Here the mist Is so
dense that we can see only one-third of
the distance across. The falls are over
a mile wide and we can hardly catch
sight of Livingstone . Island, which lies
in the center. Notice the rainbows? The
sun i shining through the foam. There
are rainbows above and below us. We
can see some in the great gorge. One
a thousand feet long has stretched Itself
from wall to wall, about 300 feet under
where we are standing. It Is a perfect
bow and Its colors are more gorgeous
than those of any rainbow I have ever
seen. A child stood here the other day
and asked her father why men djd not
lower themselves down by ropes over the
rocks and get the great bags of gold
which the fairies say are always .found
at the ends of the rainbow.
1 At the Devil's Cascade.
Our next trip is to the Devil's cas
cade, on the other end of the falls. The
distance Is about two miles, and we must
cross the bridge and walk through the
park. We frighten the monkeys, and
strange birds fly about our heads as we
go. A thick mist Is falling we cannot
see the cataract until we are right upon
It. We sit down opposite the lip of the
falls, and watch the great rivers of
water pouring over the black rocks in
volumes of yellow foam. The Zambesi
Is now at Hs full and It Is consequently
muddy. Right In front of us Is. the I
great pit Into which it falls. It Is a
mighty cavern, hundreds of feet deep.
We cannot see its bottom, for out of
It is rising such a volume of steam and
foam as exists nowhere el?o In the world.
The western end of the fall is cut off
from the main portion by Cataract Isl
and, which lies several hundred feet out
In the river. The western cataract alone
Miss Charteris not been beautiful, Can
troll would not have given her a second
thought, and would have looked for the
glory and universal goodness of women
elsewhere. This, however, has nothing
to do with the story.
Cantrell had admired Miss Charteris
from the moment she came on board. No
one suspected tins, lease 01 au anu-eii
who would have been very much shocked
had anyone told him. But If Miss Char
teris had asked him to do it, he would
have stood on his head and whistled,
"Rule, Britannia," gladly. On the whole
it is a pity that Cantrell did not know
this, as it might have saved him much
unnecessary pain and suffering.
One day Cantrell overheard some of the
lady passengers discussing the bright
particular virtues of Miss Charteris. They
were discussing them with trimmings.
and almost unnecessary detail, and the
'glory and universal' goodness" seemed
to be Missing somewhere. Cantrell at
first went extremely hot. and then un
pleasantly cold.
Then he retired with a nasty taste In
his mouth, and went up on deck to get
some clean air. Because Miss Charteris
was beautiful, and the lady passengers
were not entirely so, Cantrell was pre
pared to believe In her purity and good
ness In the face of the most blackening
evidence, and to call that evidence a con
coctlon of venomous lies.
After that Cantrell retired within him
self for a space and It must have been
an exceedingly troublous space. What
he did at the end of that time must be
taken as showing the unconscious depths
of his admiration for Miss Charteris.
What pangs and tribulations he passed
through in the recesses of his cabin be
fore he arrived at it wul never be known;
but they must have been pretty bad, for
Cantrell was very youthful. And youth
4s one of the most dire diseases we have
to contend with.
That night Cantrell waited for Miss
Charteris to come on deck after dinner.
Then before Dekker had time to throw
away his cigar and appropriate her, he
went forward, and asked If she could
spare him a few minutes of her valua
ble time. It was rather Important, said
Cantrell, who was looking very white
and tense and earnest.
Wondering what on earth it might be,
and wondering what on earth she could
have- of common interest with Cantrell,
whom she had barely noticed as a clean
looking, nice-mannered boy, but seeing
that he was tremendously In earnest
about something, and being magnificently
good-natured, Mies Charteris graciously
said that she was entirely at his service.
W hat followed was so surprising that
It Is a wonder that Miss Charteris did
.not show the other passengers something
of her astonishment. Cantrell led her to
the end of the after deck, arranged a
chair for her, and without any prelimi
naries, but with considerable agitation,
began by telling her of the loving kind
ness and charitableness that the other
passengers the lady ones bore towards
her. Miss Charteris.
Knowing all this quits as well as i
CARPENTER DESCRIBE1 THE
7 T 7 7 I .Il .-. & S " :: ::S i,: . r 'XI i ' ''
is greater than any fall in Switzerland;
It Is only a little section of Zambesi, but
If it could be carried to the Alps it
would be one of the wonders of Europe
which tourists would travel thousands
of miles to see.
On Livingstone Island.
The most remarkable view of Victoria
falls is from Livingstone Island, which
dlvideV the- Zambesi In Its center. This
Island Is on the very edge of the falls,
and when the river is high there Is hard
ly a perceptible mark of division, the
great cascade of a mile wide going down
in one mighty sheet; It was upon this
Island that David Livingstone took his
first" view of the cataract In 1S55. He
reached the Island from the Upper Zam
besi, coming down In a canoe. While
there he cut his initials and the date of
his discovery upon a tree, and the let
ters and figures are still to be seen. It
Is said that he also planted an orchard.
but If so this has long since been eaten
up by hippopotami.
The trip to Livingstone Island is so dan
gerous that It should only be made when
the river Is low. It Is now much too
high for safety, and had I been aware of
the danger I should not have thought of
making the trip. As it was, we several
times narrowly escaped going over the
falls, and upon our return the negro boys
who paddled us had to get out and lift
the canoe through certain of the shallow
rapids to keep us out of the current. As
it is, I esteem the excursion one of the
greatest experlenc&g of my life. I am.
however, much like the proud Texas'
father who was strutting along the street
the morning after bis eleventh baby was
born. He acted as though he owned the
earth and when asked what he thought
of the new arrival, replied:
"Well, I would not take a thousand
dollars for this one, but I would not give
a nickel for another."
The Zambesi above' the falls Is two I
Cantrell, Miss Charteris was wondering
a little at his taking so much trouble
to tell her, when, without a word of
warning, Cantrell plunged into his amaz
ing proposition. '
Miss Charteris never heard exactly
what Cantrell did say, partly because she
was genuinely surprised out of herself,
and partly because he spoke very nerv
ously and rapidly. She heard such
phrases as "it is women like you who
must always suffer," and "I know how
difficult things are made for you," and
her Instinct supplied her with the rest.
What Cantrell said In effect was that the
lady passengers had said all the nasty
things they had because she. Miss Char
teris, was good and beautiful. He, Cant
rell. knew that she. Miss Charteris. was
good and beautiful, and that was suffi
cient for him. But unfortunately in this
wicked world It was not sufficient for
other people. She, Miss Charteris. could
not afford -to Ignore all the spirit and
malice that existed on board, and there
fore he, Cantrell, In the wisdom and
knowledge of the aforesaid wicked
world, offered bis services to her. Mtas
Charteris, as a sort of whipping-block
suitor. In order to confound the other
passengers. Then the other passengers
beholding would see how mistaken they
had been, and would be filled with con
trition. '
It was all very beautiful and It became
more so when Cantrell went on to say
that he was perfectly willing to sacrifice
himself because he believed In the glory
and universal goodness of women, and
that he did not count anyway. Rightly
speaking his feelings should not enter
Into the matter at all, he merely doing
what one good friend would do for an
other; but If she. Miss Charteris, cared
to hear it. It was really rather a pleasure
to him than otherwise.
This last was said rather stammeringly
and after he had said It Cantrell's speech
suddenly collapsed.
Miss Charteris, after her first gasp of
astonishment, had tightened hold of her
self, and had listened in silence. She
may have been grievously tempted more
than once during the recital -to snub the
the unfortunate Cantrell. but being as
wise as she was beautiful, she held her
peace. It was part of her creed that
nsost happenings In this world could be
turned to advantage If properly and
Judiciously handled.
She knew what the other passengers.
her sisters, had been saying about her.
She also knew that she had been mak
ing the. pace rather hot with Dekker,
that they were hearing the end of the
voyage, and that she could not alto
gether afford to Ignore the remarks of
her sisters, who might make things
unpleasant for her If they saw that
she was entirely unrepentant. Then
she looked at Cantrell. and saw that
he was of a comely countenance, an
not entirely Impossible. So that she
did not rise up and blister him where
he sat, but dropped her eyes instead.
and said, "You must give me time to
think it over."
Cantrell went away with the most
remarkable discomfort. Miss Charteris
had told him that she would give -him
her answer sometime during the next
day. She had also told him that what
ever her answer might be, she hoped
he would understand how much she
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miles wide. It Is full of green Islands
which are covered with a dense growth of
papyrus and small trees. The banks are
low and we saw the spoor of many hip
popotami as we made our way up the
river. We did not attempt to cross until
we were perhaps a mile above the falls.
and we rode In our canoe far out into
the stream before we attempted to steer
ojrselves down to the island. When we
started the water was quiet. The current
was swift, however, and the vapor of
thought of his offerj and how much she
appreciated the generous spirit, the un
usually generous spirit, which had
prompted it. All of which nearly sent
Cantrell headlong down the smokeroom
staircase before he perceived It.
Cantrell sat apart for a while and
watched the last fires of sunset tint
the horizon and fade; and his Imagina
tion rioted like the screw-churned wa
ter that showed In the wake. Then
he went forward so as to get the shel
ter of the wind-screens for his pipe.
Passing along the deck, he hoard Miss
Charteris" voice. He did not know
where it came from, but the fascination
of It was on him still, and involuntar
ily he stopped. He heard Miss Char
teris say: "What could I do? the poor
little lambkin was dreadfully in ear
nest, and I didn't like to hurt his feel
ings. Besides, he really meant It."
Then he heard Dekker give a short
laugh and say: "How did you let him
down?" To which Miss Charteris re
plied, and the echo of a smothered
laugh was in her voice: "I said I
would give him an answer tomorrow;
but seriously, Val (Valentine was Dek-
ker's name), we have been rather pat
ently foolish, haven't we? and this
youthful Bayard for he Is good-look
ing might be a little useful In in di
verting public attention, which you
must admit Is becoming a little embar
rassing." Again Dekker gave a short
laugh, and said: "You've a curious
mixture of tenderness and sound busi
ness methods, Kitty. Do as you like.
but don't entirely destroy his beautiful
faith In women you want all you can
get." Then the conversation switched
off into something else.
As Cantrell walked away, he noticed
the remarkable clearness with which
he could hear the revolutions of the
screw. Then he went headlong down
the smokeroom staircase, which he did
not perceive this time, and bumped
his head so severely that he had to
be carried to his cabin, where he re
mained from slight concussion.
MIbs Charteris was very good; she
sent a message every day asking how
he was progressing. London Chronicle.
Battle Cry.
John O. Nelhardt. In Outing.
. Mors than half beaten, but foarlees.
Facing- the storm and the nlftht;
Breathless and reeling-, but tearless.
Here In the lull of th tight.
I who bow not but before thee,
God of tbe fighting clan.
Lifting my fists I implore thee.
Give me the heart of a man.
What though I live with the winners
Or perish with those who fall?
Only the cowards are sinners;
righting the light Is all.
Strong is my foe Jie advances!
napt Is my blade, O Lord!
See the proud banners and lances!
O spare me this stub of a sword!
Give me no pity, nor spare me:
Calm not the wrath of my foe.
See where he beckons to dare me!
Bleeding, half beaten I go.
Not for the glory of winning.
Not for the fear of the night;
Shunning the battle is sinning
O spare me the heart to fight!
Fed Is the mist about me;
Peep is the wound in my side;
"Coward" thou crlest to flout me?
O terrible foe, thou has lied!
Here with my battle before me.
God of the fighting elan.
Grant that the woman who bore me
buffered, to suckle a man!
the falls could be seen rising in clouBs.
Wc had four .canoe men, half naked
blacks with bracelets on their arms and
bnnds of brass wire tied about their legs
between the knee and the calf. As we
made our way on into the stream, we
could see little droves of hippopotami
swimming about They looked much like
the rocks, and It was not until they
raised up their black heads that we knew
what they were. Our boatmen were
afraid of them and we paddled off to one
side. We went by one beast which threw
its head high into the air, and opened its
mouth almost in our faces. It looked as
though a side of beef had been split apart
and opened in two halves. The teeth
were as big around as my wrist, and
I could see the great white tusks Im
bedded in the red Jaws.
When we. reached the middle of the
stream the cznoemen stopped paddling
and began ta steer. Our speed Increased
as we went down and we had great
trouble making our way through the
rocks. We soon came into the line of
the spray. It fell down like rain. The
thunder of the waters was now so great
that we had to yell to make ourselves
heard, and at times we seemed to be
rushing right into the' Devil's Cascade.
After a number of narrow escapes we
fought our way out of the current and
came to the black rocks of Livingstone's
Island. Here we fastened the boat and
waded through the woods and across the
pools to the knife edge of rock over
which the Zambesi pours In Its mighty
cataraot.
In the Midst or the Palls.
If you could double the height of Ni
agara and make It twice Its width and
then Imagine yourself standing In the
center upon a space barely wide enough
for your feet with the raging torrent on
either side, you might have my posttlon
VICTORIA TALLXT.,
as I stood there In the midst of the
Zambesi. I was on a little section of
bare black rock In the heart of that
mighty cascade. All around, above and
below me was a mist so thick that I
could see beyond it only when the wind
came and blew If away. The water rose
in great clouds: dropping down In a
warm rain which, notwithstanding my
rubber oat, drenched me to the skin.
There were times when I could not see
ten feet in froni of me.
Getting a Drink in the South
EPUTT SURVEYOR JOHN M. BISH
OP, known to his friends as Colonel,
chiefly because he is a native of Ten
nessee, has returned from a visit to his
old home at Tate Springs with some im
pressions of the political battle down
there between the forces of Prohibition
and what the Prohibitionists and others
call the Demon Rum. The Colonel says
he has made something of a study of the
situation in Tennessee.
"The ingenuity of the man with a thirst
down there," he remarked, "is working
overtime. I never heard of or saw so
many schemes for getting drinks on the
sly. The umbrella mender even Is In the
business, carrying two or three short
nips in the hollow of each umbrella
handle. One . of a group of commercial
travelers with whim I talked told me
a story of a big angular colored woman
who Increased the symmetry of her figure
by strapping around it certain bulbous
receptacles demijohns I suspect the con
tents of which she sold on the quiet,
thus reducing her girth and increasing
her wad. .
"Many arrests for 'bootlegging" are be
ing made In the state and the blind tiger
Is everywhere. A merchant selling a bill
of goods always slips in a bottle as a
gift. By many devices storekeepers man
age so they can dig up a sip of 'good
cheer water when it Is urgently sought
by a wayfaring brother. A brand of
soft stun" known as 'prohibition beer' Is
on the market. Being non-alcoholic it
may be sold within the law. The mer
chant In addition to his stock of prohi
bition 'beer will have stored In his blind
tiger department a stock of sure enough
beer. When a stranger, a man unknown
to the community and who may be a spot
ter, comes Into the Joint and calls for
prohibition beer hs gets it. But if the
caller be a citizen whose beer thirst Is
a matter of common knowledge In the
town, the storekeeper fishes out a bottle
of real beer.
"In the moonshine districts a dollar
placed on a 'blind tiger' stump will turn
to a bottle of booze before morning. An
Improved scheme In this same class Is to
have a. blind drawer In a partition wall.
A dollar placed In this drawer will turn
to whisky when the drawer Is again
opened. If one Is assigned a $2-room in
a blind tiger hotel he will find a Jl-bottle
of whisky m the room. If he calls for a
J3-room he will find two bottles or a Jug
of firewater under the bed.
"I went Into a shooting gallery In-
well. I won't give it away and was told
that my poor shooting was due to un
steady, nerves. Some pantomime fol
lowed and then a little brown Bettie'
was fished out of a closet. It was dis
closed later that my poor marksmanship
had been due to tbe fact that the bell
had been purposely removed from the
target. The express companies stock up
with dummy packages, and when the
thirst victim enters the express office and
Inquires if a package has been received
for John Smith he is answered In the
' Then the mist would break, and I
looked down Into a bottomless pit filled
with steam, which rose up In clouds and
extended for a half mile Into the sky. I
tried to take notes, but the rain poured
down upon my paper, obliterating the
poncil marks and washing them off as
fast as I made them. I shut my memo
randum book and put it into the pocket
of my waterproof. When I took it out
It was turned almost to a pulp. The
water had daught In the pockets and I
carried a pint or so with me to land.
Holding tight to the rocks I picked my
way along the knife edge of the falls as
far as I could, looking down now and
then Into the gorge, as the wind blew
away tho rain. It was peeping into an
Inferno, a howling, foaming, raging hell,
that needed only brimstone and flams to
fit it for the devil and the damned. I did
not dare look long for fear an Insane de
sire might come and make me Jump into
that boiling mass down, down, down into
that wide gorge, up which the winds were
hurling those clouds of spray.
I cannot describe the beauty of the
cataract. It Is beyond description. Ths
scenes change every moment and each
additional moment seems more terrible
and more grand.
Going back, we had a hard struggle to
land. The current down which we floated
was impassable, and it was tough work tJ
reach the places where the river was
shallow. By wading and pushing, pad
dling and fighting the rocks, wa at last
got Into smooth water, and tired out
came back to the banks where we started.
The Rain Forest.
We next explored the great rocks which
lie In front of the falls and then walked
through the rain forest. This is a Jungle
of woods on the other side of the cataract,
where day In and day out. for the great
er part of the year, the leaves always
drip. They are wet by the spray from ths
falls, and one cannot go through and
keep dry without rubber clothing. 'When
the wind came our way the droppings
turned to a shower. The vegetation was
dense and at the breaks In the woods the
sun found its way in and turned the
spray to a veil of fine lace. The rain
drops on the leaves sparkled like Jewels,
and here and there I coald see little rain
bows extending from one tree to another.
Victoria Falls, Africa, July 14.
affirmative and after receiving the pack
age departs in peace.
"The prohibition laws in the South are
not uniform in their operation and as a
result some strange business freaks have
come about. In Chattanooga, for In
stance, prohibition failed to carry, and as
a result It has become the leading wildcat
distributing point in the South, A saloon
man named Rose, exiled from dry At
lanta, moved his traps to wet Chatta
nooga and started a distribution agency.
His business has reached mammoth pro
portions. He operates through the ex
press companies and 4 dally sends out
many thousand packages to all parts of
the South.
"After prohibition struck Dixie mid
ships Chattanooga became the harbor of
refuse for firewater artists throughout
Georgia. Alabama and Mississippi. The
ealoonmen, accompanied by the fixtures
of their dismantled saloons, piled Into
Chattanooga from all sides, and the stor
age places of the town under Lookout
Mountain now contain enough second
hand fittings to rig out another Hoboken.
The Chattanooga brewery found itself
snowed under with saloon fixtures which
it had originally furnished to places hand
ling Its stuff throughout the South.
"The old-time moonshine trade In the
upland sections of the South, which had
been well-nigh exterminated by Uncle
Sam, promises to spring up again at an
adjunct of the blind tiger business. A
real, casehardened old soak. If he can't
tickle his palate at some local quenchery.
will hie himself to a nearby mountain
trail and get a line on a moonshine plant
This bodes no good for the 'revenooers,'
for be it remembered these officers who
under old conditions upheld the dignity
of the law at a mere pittance will now
have to work overtime and even then
not cop all the truck. The reason Is
plain. Formerly Mr. Moonshiner stood
alone In his defiance of law. When the
cohorts of thirst from hill and dale, flee
ing before the praying, shouting, ex
horting army of drink fighters, reach the
laurel-fringed foothills of the Smoky, the
Grandfather, the Chllhowle, the Unoka
and the Cumberland with red eyes,
parched Hps and fever blisters'. on their
tonsues, the moonshiner will find himself
among friends who will keep his secret."
The Fire-bearer.
Arthur lTr.ton.
Ye who bear fire within your breast.
Look not for rest.
Early your clamoring heart shall Uara
uniy to burn.
To ask nor other food
Than bis own fire.
Nop better hrotherhoort
Than his sublime, unquenchable desire.
Ask not what end. if asking give
Less Joy to live.
Or if. to ask. you long must wait
tsesme some gate
Where the glib answerers dwell:
Your heart of fire
Hath his own lore to tell
Of his sublime, unquenchable desire I
The mute, unklndled multitude.
The rough, the rude.
Let them your living rapture know.
And share the glow
The undreaming give their dreaml
Fire answering fire.
Fulfillment sweet shall seem
Of your sublime, unquenchable desiral