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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 16, 1908)
16, 190S. ' 7 THE SUNDAY OREGOMAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST The Boarding School Girl's Outfit TUB mother who is outfitting her eldest daughter for the latter's first year at boarding school feels as If K-ie were providing a trousseau. This Is because boarding school life'ls little un derstood by the average mother, who Is far more apt to provide too much rather than too little. In a first-class finishing or prepara tory school of good standing, simplicity of dress is almost mandatory, and the over-dressed girl Is an object of ridicule and not of admiration. In fact it will take her some time to live down the repu tation of betnr newlv rich or underbred which too elaborate a wardrobe will give her. Silk frocks, ererje de chine waists, man separate blouses and fancy skirts tnesa are among the articles of raiment tabooed at rood schools. This does not mean that up-to-date school outfit Is cheap, but it does mean that it is simple ana snows fineness of material rather than elabora tion. In frocks, certain things are absolutely essential. The girl of 16 years or there- hmiM must have what the boarding school miss calls her Peter Thompson suit, which Is really a very finely fitted and tailored suit with deep collar, em broidered shield and pleated skirt. In fln material, tailor-made, this suit will cost to order at least J25, but It la the one costume the girl will perhaps wear during the entire term in the class room and for her ordinary outdoor exercise. If the suit is made at home and this can be done by employing a rename pat tern it will cost considerably less rH.i BArflrA In a tnr tiliiA la the stand ard choice for this suit,, and In hunter's green, maroon ana warm nut-Drown. . ' . , K, talrn oHrtllt finishing the suit to give It the tailored look which la considered smart. Tessmg ana line stitching alike are Important factors in ontirini, tiia rpMiilt. If anv trimming is employed, it must be a flat braid in -r, i f tnnii a, !onV rather than one show ing violent contrast, such as white or light tan. The dickey or shield may be made of the same material or or wnite pique. If made of the serge, a piping of pique n, itnn vnur worn around the neck. a narrow linen ruchlng or a fine but plain turnover. in 4i, a mnHi mYttwn F"1mire A. the re quirements of the school room are ad mirably met. The skirt is laia in oroaa side pleats, finished with two rows of ht-oM In rnntrnRtinr Width. The buttons may be omitted on the skirt, as they are apt to wear against acs. mm Ixioks. Denpite the prevailing craze for three-quarter length sleeves, for general class room wear full length sleeves with narrow turn-back cuffs of linen or lawn are in better taste than the shorter sleeve. The skirt should have a narrow matching belt, finished with stitching or fine braid sewn very flat. Neat In Importance In the schsol girl's wardrobe is the seml-tallored suit which slie wears while traveling to and from seiiool and for trips to the shops, church, etc. While this is tailored, it should not h too severe, or the girl will feel the necessity of a trifle better suit for church wear, and other more or less dressy occa slnns. Ttie design shown In Figure B gives a fairly good Idea of what la needed for this purpose. Here you have plain and striped cloth, of the same weight, excellent combined, and the sleeves are roomy enough to ad mit of a fluffy waist beneath for dress up occasions. For traveling, a plain matching blouse of silk or veiling is used, while for better wear ft very fine mar quisette or chiffon cloth over silk, with strappings of the cloth, may be substi tuted. Whatever the blouse, it must match In coloring and simplicity the de sign of the tailored suit This design was Brawn from a model In rich tan color broadcloth, trimmed with atrlped broad cloth, tan and brown In hue. and a touch of embroidery In Van Dyke points, brown, tan. gold and a tiny dash of pale blue. The tailored blouse was of tan colored silk, but for dressy wear a blouse made of chiffon cloth over matching silk, with touches of ecru lace and em broidery In matching tones, would be most effective. A third important dress for the boarding-school miss Is the pretty and girlish confection which she will need for faculty receptions, hops, etc This should be de veloped In a distinctly girlish fabric, such as batiste, mull or other so-called tub fabrics never in silk, satin or crepe de chine. The only silk permissible for a boarding-school wardrobe is the soft The Rejuvenation of the Old THIS In the time of the year when the effect Of the sun on dainty hats has almost ruined them, yet it ia too early to invest In a Fall hat. Con sequently, the girl of foresight will bend her efforts towards making the old one take on a new look. The first move is to rip off all the trim ming. Then, If the hat la a black straw, wash off with a little warm suds, let it dry In the sun, give It a liberal coating of shoe blacking, and again dry in the sun. This will take away the dusty, gray look. But if the hat Is a colored one, faded to some indistinguishable hue. go to your druggist and buy a dye of the am color for straw. In buying dyea always state what you want them for; there are dyes for wool, dyea for cot ton, dyes for silk and feathers, and dye for straw. Dye the old hat the same color it originally was, and follow the directions carefully. So much for the hat itself. The ribbon should be void of all threads, and If it was wired, this also must be taken cut. Ribbon which has not faded but Is simply soiled should be washed with naptha soap and lukewarm water. Do not rub It, but put a lather of soap on the ribbon and let it remain for a few minutes, then rlnee, and iron dry between two pieces of sheeting or some white cloth without lint. Black ribbons are best freshened by going over them with a cloth dampened with warm water, to which a few drop of afnmonla have hen added. They should be Ironed under a cloth. This done, baste back the wire and arrange the bow as before. Flowers that are faded badly are al most beyond redemption, but if they are merely soiled they can be giv;n new life by dipping them in naphtha several times snd letting them dry. Wash the green leaves off carefully one by one with the naphtfla. and your bunch of flowers will be fairly gay once more. If the flowers flo not lend themselves to treatment, do not put them back on the hat. Either buy a couple of new quills or a new bunch of flowers to take the place of the old ones. Should the hat be trimmed with lace, this should be washed with a pure white soap or naphtha soap, rinsed many times, and wound around a large empty bottle to dry. Lace should never be ironed, particularly if It is a good quality Iron ing sets the pattern down fiat and takes away much of Its distinction. Velvet can be mads to look almost FIG. A-THE POPULAR SAILOR COSTUME-FOR CLASSROOM WEAR. China or taffeta silk undcrsllp which Is used beneath thin frocks. The design shown in Figure C will de- I i.i ,1,.-,... nl.iclni, fuhrira. vciup ill jiau " " i ...... . It was done In white silk mulle with a silvery sheen ana trimmings oi imitation Irish lace. Pale blue mulle with ecru lace, fine batiste with batiste embroidery a, n-itn tha Hash nf H n 1 i - ill yim ..mus ' ' - ...... cate coloring, blue, pink or yellow, which i i in nA n.i nar nmarolrieries. would be equally effective. The deep tUCKS in me sitiri aim nit m.iv,, of the jumper are particularly becoming J a sienaer nguitr. T .nlllnrt (a t Vl 1 tVAIlinr fi-OWn thft young lady will need a simpler dress or two for wear to' dinner each night Tub fabrics, made with full skirts and Dutch neck blouses and soft ribbon girdles, are worn in the average school where steam i A..nn Vnf fnnlpr n i r-h f 1 an Fm- JlCtlb IB llfUMU. v. ' - r . plre design developed in challle. cash mere or veiling, wun a aeep J" tucker of lace or tucked net and elbow sleeves with cuffs to match the yoke, ia far better than separate silk skirts with new again by pulling out all stray threada and ' steaming over the mouth of a kettle on a little tin fixture which conies for the purpose. If you cannot get thla fixture, dampen the back of the velvet, turn an iron on end, and run the dampened side of the velvet over the back or the iron slowly so that the steam comes from it. Thla should take out most of the creases. Feathers can be both cleaned and dyed at home. They are best tleaned by dipping In naphtha and drying In the sun. The fashion for tightly-curled feather has practically gone out, and the Some Timely Kecipes Maple Blanc Manee. A delicious sweet, and. If properly chilled, a sub stitute for ice cream. In a double boiler heat one quart of sweet milk, thicken with four heaping tablespoons of corn starch, moistened with Just enough cold milk to dissolve it. Stir until smooth and thick, adding gradu ally a cup of very thick, real maple syrup. Do not add all the syrup at once, and stir continually. If you have no good maple syrup at hand, buy maple sugar and boil It down until it is thick, almost ropy. When the mixture Is almost stiff, pour into a mold, dipped Into cold water. When ice cold, turn out, and serve with whipped cream. Candled Cherries Wash, stem and pit one pound of large firm cherries, putting a pound of sugar to a pound of the fruit. Boil the Juice and" the sugar to a very thick syrup. Put the cherries in this syrup and let them simmer not boil, for ten minutes. Then set them away In the syrup until the next day. The next morn ing take the cherries out of the syrup and put in a deep dish. Let the syrup boil up once and pour over the cherries. Thla should be done for three mornings. On the fourth morning, boil the syrup almost to the thickness of candy, dip the cherries in and let them get thoroughly coated, then place them separately on flat dlshea and dry. Violet Cmatard. For a -lavender luncheon try a custard flavored and tinted w-ith grape Juice, making aure that the latter is absolutely unferment ed. Heat a quart of milk In a double fancy blouses that do not .harmonise and are much over-trimmed. A very important feature of the girl's outfit Is her storm skirt and coat for long walks In bad weather. She also should have a well-made gymnasium suit. Her shoes should include heavy walking boots, a pair of dress shoes to wear with her best tailored costume, a neat pair of ties, if she likes low shoes for the class room, a pair of dancing pumps for evenings, and a pair of bed room slippers. Plain lisle or silk stockings are pre ferred to open-work or embroidered designs,- brown hosiery with tan shoes, black with black. She should have three hats a severely tailored one to match her suit for traveling and ordinary wear, a more dressy one with feathers or fancy wings for church, and a soft, boyish felt hat for rough weather wear. She will need a liberal supply of sim ple, not over-trimmed, lingerie, practical ly what she should have at home, and everything must be clearly marked. MART DEAN. Summer Hat very straight ends can be slightly curled by throwing a handful of salt on the kitchen stove, holding the feather over this, and curling with the back of a sil ver knife. . The salt gives out a very dry heat which tends to make - the feathers curl naturally. All these things done, your trimming is fresh again, and should be put back on the hat. You will then find that you need not buy a new hat until the Fall fashions have bem out for some time, and you have fully decided Just what you want in the way of new millnery. MART DEAN. boiler, add half a cup of sugar. When dissolved, stir in two tablespoons of grape Juice and directly after this two tablespoons of rennet extract which you can buy at any first-class grocery. Turn Into a large glass bowl, which haa been wet with hot water and la setting In hot water. This will pre vent the cracking of the bowl. As soon as the bowl Is cold enough to handle, lift out of the water, wipe and set away in ice box. Serve with whipped cream, in which candied violets, mixed nuts .and pulverized sugar have been beaten. Or you can turn the rennet Into a mold with a tube center, turn it out very gently and fill the hole, left by the tube, with whipped cream. As rennet Is very difficult to handle, it is safer to pour It directly Into the glass dish from which it ia to be served. Cream Crabs In peppers If you live near salt water where crabs are obtain able this is a most inexpensive dish. If you are not in a crab country, substitute any good white fish with a firm texture. Select large, green sweet peppers of uni form size, one for each person. Cut off enough of the atem. ends to make the vegetable set firmly, but do not make an opening through which the Juice can come. Cut off the tops, scrape out the seeds and throw into ice water to soak for an hour. For six peppers make the following mixture: A coffee cupful of crab meat, flaked after the crabs have been boiled. In a procelain or enameled saucepan melt one tablespoon of butter and cream Into It one tablespoon of flour. Add slowly one cup of milk, stirring all the while. When this has come to a boil. remove the pan from the fire, add a beaten yolk of one egg. a large teaspoon of chopped parsley, a little lemon Juice, salt and paprika. Add the crab meat, return to the fire and bring to boiling point. Remove immediately, wipe out the pepper cases with a .soft cloth and fill with the fish mixture; place In a brisk oven and bake 10 minutes. Scrambled Eggs and Mushrooms A very economical dish for the out-of-town housewife who knows where and how to gather mushrooms. For six people a quarter of a pound of mushrooms will be required. They are light in weight. Skin the tops, scrape the stems and wash In cold water; have ready some melted butter, drop in the mushrooma, whole if they are small, halved If they are large; shake vigorously until they are lightly" browned and then set on the back o the stove while you prepare your eggs? Warm a cup of rich milk in which you melt two tablespoons of butter, salt, and pepper to taste. In another bowl beat six eggs, whites and yolks together. Stir In the mushrooms and tha seasoned milk last. Turn the mixture into a porcelain lined or enameled frying pan, rubbed with butter. Cook over a moderate fire until the eggs are set, using a silver fork to, keep the cooked portion from sticking to the bottom and sides of the pan. Serve on hot toast garnished with parsley. Cherry Cordial. Very ripe cherrlea should be used for this. Bruise the fruit and mash through a colander, sweeten to taste. Boll for ten minutes and then strain. Boll again until perfectly clear, skimming off occasionally. - To every quart of cherry Juice, add one gill of pure brandy. Seal the bottle tightly and keep In a cool, dark place. ' German Cherry Pie. Make a cherry pie as usual, but omit the upper crust. When almost done, beat up one egg until very light, and add to It one scant half cupful of rich .cream. Pour this mixture over the top of the pie. Put pie back in oven and bake until the custard la set. This makes a very at tractive as well as an appetizing dish. Peach Melba A much-talked-of dish. Select large, firm, free-stone peaches. Pare, cut In half and remove stones. Simmer gently in Just enough syrup I.e., sugar and water to cover them. If you will add the cracked stones, it will give a rich flavor. Have ready a sponge cake, cut in half-inch Bllces and shape In a circle. On each circle place a peach, with the hollow left by the atone turned upward. Fill this hollow with vanilla ice .cream and finish with a Maraschino cherry. The peaches, of course, must be ice cold. Banana Salad Inexpensive and very nourishing. Make a bed of crisp lettuce leaves and cover lightly with mayonnaise dressing. Allow half a banana for each person. Cut them into thin slices, using a -silver knife. Allow a third as many English walnuts or hickory nuts, shelled, as you have bananas. Pass these through a grinder, mix lightly with the bananas and heap on the lettuce leaves, dressed with mayonnaise. . . Cucumber Jelly Salad Peel and slice cucumbers that are not too ripe; simmer until they are tenrrer. drain, season with salt and cayenne pepper and stiffen with gelatine. Allow a teaspoonful of gelatine to each cupful of cucumber, dissolving the gelatine thoroughly before-mixing the two. Mold Into a square dish and when it is formed cut Into blocks and serve on lettuce leaves with mayonnaise dress ing. Mixed Politic. . Chicago New. I am a rank republlcrat - With prohibition tendencies; I hardly know "wher I am at. Political ascendencies Are hard to keep one's optics on Then times; but et I will . Thin one conclusion (Seems foregone 1 11 surely vote, for BUI. I've thought the problem o'er and &er, Looked at it every way I can, I can't consider any more Which candidate's the better man. I don't know which way I shall cast My ballot, but I will Now this conclusion's hard and fast I've got to vote for Bill. I'll vota for one of portly size And ever-ready rlslhles; One who has focused many yes Been long among the vialbles. Tet I don't know which way to vote; I only know I will This only certainty I note I'm, bound to vote for Bill. Although this Christian name Is fixed Beyond all decent doubt or question. Upon the surname I am mixed And always open to suggestion. I know not who shall get my vote, Tet I am certain still This lonesome certainty I note I'm going to vote for Bill. FIG. C EFECTIVE EVENING FROCK FOR HOPS. D'ogday Ailments and Their Relief 2 - - 'rB FIQ. B. SEMI-TAILORED SUIT FOR THE .mid-Summer heat seems to bring' to light every latent skin aliment and particularly to em phasize complexion defects. Perhaps the most common affliction of the Sum mer girl Is freckles. In this case one ounce of prevention Is worth two pounds of cure, and her first aid is veiling the skin. The woman with a tendency to freckle should never go bare-headed or bare-handed, because the more sensitive her skin, the more deeply will the freckles be rooted. For driving, motoring and long walks, she should add to the broad shade hat a veil, brown or red preferred. The new geranium or cerise colored veils break the rays of light admirably, and are most useful for this purpose. To keep- light freck.3 in subjection there are various homemade lotions, all within reach of the Summer girl. One of these is fresh buttermilk, which should be used night and morning, and allowed to dry on. The best method SUNDAY WEAR. CALLING, ETC. of applying it is to dip an old piece of linen into a bowl of milk and then pat tlie face with it gently. This is equally a good remedy for tan and sunburn. Another homemade, lotion consists of a teaspoonful of horseradish, grated and mixed with a cup of sour milk. Iet the mixture stand for six hours, and apply two or three times dally. When the freckles are very deep set a more vigorous treatment must be used. Every night before retiring bathe the face in water as hot as It can be borne, then apply a pomade as follows: Oxide of sine. 10 grams; talcum 10 Etiquette; Engagements THE regulation crop of engagements is about to be announced, as the re sult of moonlight nights and vacation-propinquity. Some of these will be typical Summer boy and girl engage ments, which nobody but the two In terested parties will regard seriously. Others will affect the happiness not only of thoso . immediately concerned but parents, relatives and friends, to whom the engaged couple owe certain obliga tions. The American girl considers it to be her right to pass first on a proposal, and then she expects her well-trained parents to agree with her. For this reason the old-fashioned custom of a young man's asking permission of the father to pay his addresses to the daughter is dead. He proposes to the girl, and from her gets an idea of the psychological" moment for consulting her father and mother. As a rule, the up-to-date man calls In person on the parents, but If the young people are far from the daughter's home per haps they have met at the house of mu tual friends or abroad the young man writes a straightforward, manly letter to the father. If his suit is accepted, he then notifies his .own family, who must call on the girl if they live in the vicinity, or write her cordial little notes showing that she will be welcome in the family. The girl returns these calls or answers the notes promptly. Many an unfortunate matrimonial difference arises because the young wife, when a fiancee, was careless In her treatment of her sweetheart's mother, or - assumed that she was not welcome In the family.' . If possible, at the beginning of her engagement a girl will avoid visiting the family of her fiance. 1et her become a little accustomed to the new relation be fore she becomes too Intimate with his family. Two problems which Immediately con front the engaged couple are these: The amount of time to be spent togather and the number of presents the man Is ex pected to shower, upon his fiancee. This Is not so much a matter of actual eti quette as of common sense. A girl has a perfect right to expect an engagement ring In proportion to the income of her fiance. Generally speaking, a diamond solitaire of medium size is selected, but If either party feels a certain sentiment for a stone, it may be chosen, or a girl may choose her own birthstone. A young man is supposed to remember his intended's birthday and to send her a remembrance at such times, also Christmas, Easter, etc. But the girl engaged to a man of mod erate circumstances, whose salary she knows will just support them comfort ably after marriage, should not expect to be showered with expensive gifts. She may be sure that after marriage she will pay for this extravagance In some form of household stringency. No well bred girl "accepts either money or clothes from the man to whom she is engaged. Many an engaged couple make the mis take of seeing too much of each other. , grams; powdered -soap, 60 grains: lano line, 8 grams; tincture of benzoin, 10 grams; rain water, 92 grams: glycerine, 10 grams. The soap, powdered for this pomade, should e one of the plain white soaps, which contains no free al kali and does not bite when touched with the tongue. Allow this pomade to remain on over night. The girl who is not accustomed to outdoor life and who wakes up In the night with a stinging sensation in the face and arms is very apt to seek relief in cold water. If she only realized' that she had an Incipient case of sun- , burn she would flee from the water; basin and use a remedy that will not Increase her suffering as water does. , A mild solution of witch hazel applied' to the affected parts will give tempo rary relief. In the morning bathe the . face, arms and neck with water as hot; as can be borne, repeating the appll-, cations for ten or 15 minutes. Then pat the face with old linen, or antisep tic gauze, dipped Into cucumber cream, made from the following formula: Oil of sweet almonds 4 ounces Fresh cucumber Juice 10 ounces. Essence of cucumbers 8 ounces White castile soap (powdered) H ounct Tincture of benzoin 2-3 drachm' The Juice of cucumbers Is obtained by boiling them in a very little water. Slice them very thin, skin and all, and ! . let them cook slowly till soft and. mushy: strain through a fine sieve andi then through a cloth. Make the es-; sence by putting an ounce and a half; of the Juice into the same quantity of high-proof alcohol. Put the essence1 with the soap in a large Jar or bottle the larger the better, as the mixture1 requires much shaking. After a few hours, when the soap is dissolved, add the cucumber Juice, shake till thor-. oughly mixed, then pour out into an earthen bottle and add the oil and the. benzoin, stirring constantly till you have a creamy liquid. Be sure that the cucumber Juice Is strong, for It Is the natural arsenic in the cucumber which Imparts Its wonderfully whitening powers. Put the emulsion in small bot tles, keep tightly corked and In the dark, and always shake before using. It Is so quickly absorbed by the skin that It Is very pleasant to use. If the eyes burn in trimmer and show a tendency to Inflammation of the lids, use an eye cup containing tepid water with a few drops of bono acid. This Is a very simple an effective remedy. If a girl so afflicted spends much time on the water she should train herself to wear blue or smoked glasses. Many girls write to me tnat they are annoed by the heaviness and sourness of their hair in mld-Sunimor when it is apt to emit a. somewhat unpleasant odor. For this, of course, the one cure Is cleanliness. The hair niu.st he slinni pooed. using a little borax in the water, rinsed very thoroughly, then dried and ventilated in the sunlight. Never braid the hair or dress it when It Is a little damp next to the scalp. This is t lie niont common cause for the sour odor. Shake the hair in the sunlight until it is dry to the very roots. Unless It Is very dry and apt to break, there Is really no harm In washing the hair once a week In Summer. Between shampoos, moisture, perspiration and oil can be absorbed by ventilating the hair at night, shaking orris root Into the scalp and brushing It out carefully In the morning. Another common complaint from the Summer girl is her Inability to keep her hair in curl. I give a most reliable curling lotion, which can be used in connection with kid curlers, but not oftener than two or three times a week. Divide the hair into strands, dampen with this lotion and put up on curlers until dry, or over nlglit. 1 ounce of good gum arable; 4 ounce of good moist sugar; pint of pure hot water. Dissolve this and when cold add 2 fluid ounces of alcohol: 6 grains each of bichloride of mercury and salaminonlac. These last two should be dissolved In the alcohol, be fore admixture. Lastly, add enough water to make the whole a pint, and perfume with anv desired cologne. KATHEHINK MORTON". and more than one broken engagement can be traced directly to the cloying effect of frequent meetings. A call two or three times a week and perhaps on Sunday Is quite sufficient. It Is not at all necessary for a girl to abstain from all other social Interests simply became she is engaged. Only a most unreason able man will object to her dancing with other partners, but he has a right to object to her driving or walking recular ly with another man. The girl who expects her fiance to Ignore the existence of all other women is entirely unreasonable. The fart that he has asked a girl to marry him Is the highest compliment he could pay her. and she should not Interpret his courtesy to pther women as a slight upon herself. Where the family connections are very large and the two families well ac quainted, a dinner to relatives is some times given for the purpose of announc ing the engagement. When the two families have no Interest in common, or live far apart, it Is far more customary for the bride's mother to give a little luncheon for her daughter's girl friends, at which the engagement Is formally an-' nounced. It goes without saying that the guests will carry the news. Formal an nouncements either by card or In the newspapers are not necessary, nor desir able, except In Jewish society, where the betrothal is a very formal affair and regarded as seriously as the marriage , itself. When a girl is away for the Summer or abroad she announces her engagement to her friends by mall, brief and Informal little notes being sufficient. These friends must reply immediately. When the engagement does not ter minate happily, and, for the good of nil concerned, it is broken, the tact and diplomacy of both parties is called into play. While nothing Is said the man allows It to be regarded as a foregone conclusion that the girl asked for her release. Both should refrain religiously from discubsing the matter with their acquaintances or relatives. PRUDENCB STAN0ISH. Decorative Cretonne. . Time was when cretonne and chlnta were used only to dress chairs and di vans, doorways and the furnishings of the house in general. Now It decorates the mistress herself, and one sees her waistcoat fashioned of this dainty stuff,' her hat trimmed with the same, and slia frequently carries a parasol to match. Cretonne has also been used by French modistes for decorative purposes upon evening gowns or rather, under even ing gowns, for the flowered material Is set under the chiffon or other thin fabric, which veils It sufficiently to give It the most artistic effect. To give the trimming of cretonne a look of In-; divlduallty, a woman handy with her, needle, may "pick up" with embroidery silk certain motifs in the design. The, same work Is also done with fold thread.
