The Sunday Oregonian., July 26, 1908, Magazine Section, Page 7, Image 51

. THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN. PORTLAND, JULY 26, 1908,
7
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Styles for the Young Summer Girl
FIQ. A. SEMI-PRINCESS FROCK
The Art of Being Entertained
VOLUMES have been written on the
duty of the hostess to hor guests.
Mothers have been told in ringing
phrases the duties they owe to the young
people entertained by their children. The
head of the house has been duly and fre
quently impressed with the Importance of
courtesy to the women-strangers within
his gates. But what of the duties of the
guest,' particularly the Summer pirl guest
to those by whom she is entertained?
This question was most forcinly sug
gested to me Inst Sunday by the extra
ordinary conduct of a young woman who
was a week-end guest at a charming sub
urban home, where I was also being en
tertained. The hostess was a woman of
mature years, whose only son had been
kept at home ani off city streets in other
years by his mother's making their home
a plt-asure center for all Ills friends. Now
the son has grown up. is In business ,and
away from home much of the time; so
the mother is glad to welcome his town
friends for her own companionship. Par
ticularly does she enjoy young girls, as
her life has never been blessed with a.
daughter.
Kor tills Sunday she had among lier
guests a charming young girl of 20, the
rather fragile type of gin for whom men
and many women always fetch and
carry. Heretofore the pirl has visited at
this particular home because fhe was un
fpignedly fond of its mistress, but the
present magnet is a young; man who lives
In the neighborhood, and who has
wealthy parents, an automobile and a
distinct fondness for the society of the
girl.
Of course, she did not tell tis that he
was the magnet. We simply had the fact
forced upon our observation.
The young lade.- arrived in our nUdst at
B on Saturday. At 7 she rose from the
dinner tabl begging her hostess to ex
cuse her without dessert, because he was
outside, WAiting in his car. She returned
at ll:3i o'clock, and a very tired host
and hostess had to sit up and wait for
her.
The next morning, st 11 o'clock, she
strolled down for breakfast. Our hostess
does her own work with the aid of a half
grown girl, and she had to leave the
rest of her guests on the porch while she
made sure that the long-suffering Maggie
prepared something for the late riser.
The - girl wanted only strawberries,
coffee and rolls because he was coming
to take her to lunch with his mother.
he spent tho afternoon there and for
got to telephone that she was staying
also for dinner at night until our dinner
had waited some time. Another evening
motor ride, a tired girl who insisted upon,
being called very early the next morning,
so she could ride with him to the depot,
then back to her hostess to hurriedly
pack her own bag and get into town on
shopping bent.
Her hostess was hurt and she had a
rWht to be. If you merely want osten
sible chaperonage for a week-end jaunt,
do not abuse the courtesy of a private
home by pretending that you are "visit
ing" there. Bring your mother and stop
t a suburban inn and be done with it.
A young married woman found her
self suddenly bereft of a hand-maiden
one lovely Sunday, when several town
girls were booked to spend the day.
In the general domestic excitement,
she burned her hand quite badly and
appeared at the luncheon table rather
subdued but cheerful, and with her
hand in a bandage. Her girl guests
"poor-poored" her, talked feelingly of
the lack of consideration Innate with
the present-day servant, but neither
one asked who was going to do the
lunch dishes for their hostess. As a
matter of fact, two very delightful
yoifng men washed and wiped the
dishes and told their tired hostess
funny stories that made her-laugh un
til she cried, whils the trls rode off
IN PRINCESS NET AND LACE.
in the machine with thy chum who
had dropped them at the veranda's
stops.
The guest who is as selfish as these
girls seldom lasts as a social factor
in nice homes. During her first season
as a week-end guest she makes the
rounds of her women friends living out
of town, but her next season Is pretty
sure to be a flat failure.
Of course, if the reader of this arti
cle counts her friends among the very
rich, whose servants are like the sands
of the sea, too numerous to count, she
may sit back and be entertained, and
she may lie abed all day if she likes.
But, unfortunately, the vast majority
of us count our friends among the
great middle class.
Our hostesses are always face to
face with the servant problem, and it
Is a most thoughtless guest who delib
erately complicates that problem by
late rising, irregularity at meals and
the very unpleasant habit of leaving
her belongings strewn all over the house
and porch.
If you are too tired, too nervous or
too lazy to fall into the habits of the
family by whom you are entertained,
do not accept the Invitation. You had
best go to a small resort where you
can command room service from a
servant with liberal tips. Or go to a
sanitarium and get cured. Do - not
turn the home of your hostess into a
free hotel or sanitarium.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
GREEN CORN
Boiled Corn. Fill an enamel or
granite-iron pot with plenty of water to
cover the amount of corn you Intend to
cook. Bring it to a boll, and have your
corn husked, the ears broken in half if
they are very long. Salt the water, drop
the corn into It at boiling point, and boil
briskly from five to eight minutes, if the
corn Is very young and tender from eight
to twelve If the kernels are large. Rei
move with a large skimmer, drain, wrap
in a napkin or corn dolly and serve im
mediately. Corn cooked In an Iron -pot
is very apt to turn dark, and if allowed to
stand in the water at the back of the
stove it will become soggy and tasteless.
...
Corn Pnddlnic. For this and all
other made dishes in which corn plays a
rart, either grate or press it from the
cob. It does not mix well with other
ingredients if it Is cut roughly and
coarsely from the cob. If you lack the
patience to grate It, then with a sharp
knife cut through the center of each row
of kernels, and with the blunt side of the
knife, pressed firmly with a downward
motion, squeeze out all the pulp through
the aperture thus made. One quart of
scraped corn, one cup of rich milk, a
lump of butter the size of a walnut, melt
ed and mixed with the corn, .two table
spoons of sugar, two well-beaten eggs,
salt to taste. Bake one hour In a but
tered pudding dish, set In a pan of boil
ing water. Have a moderate oven. This
will be the consistency of a custard. If
you want It a trifle- thicker, beat two
tablespoons of flour In with the corn be
fore adding the othqr Ingredients.
. -
Corn Peppers. Select firm, bell pep
pers, either green or red. Do not cut off
the stems. Parboil them for 15 or 20
minutes whole. Cut a slice out of the
side of the pepper like a little window,
remove all the seeds and tile partitions
found in the pepper. Have ready the
following mixture: A dozen ears of corn
grated, a tablespoon of butter .melted,
tablespoon of cream, two beaten -eggs,
salt to taste. Fill each pepper with this
mixture, tuck In the little slHe or window
and bake in a quick oven.
THESE are the days when the
younger daughters of the household
strike terror to mother's heart by
announcing that they have nothing to
wear! Their elder sisters, knowing how
to care for delicate Summer fabrics and
how to select the proper gown to wear on
occasions when wear and tear must be
considered, generally have a presentable
wardrobe in mid-summer, but a sorry
array is presented in'tije closet of the
younger girl.
A few thrifty mothers have learned
to select heavy and medium-weight tub
fabrics for the majority of frocks to be
worn by Miss Sixteen, but the vast ma
jority are caught in the lure of delicately
tinted and woven fabrics which can be
washed only with Infinite care and which
yield to the Ban's uncompromising rays
in July and August.
The ritothers who now find themselves
face to face with the task of renewing
Miss Sixteen's Summer wardrobe, will
do well to recail that Fall and school
days are only six weeks ahead, at the
most, and to plan upon making the new
gowns do double duty, that is, finish off
the vacation season and answer various
purposes in the Fall.
Lawns, batistes, organdies, etc, should
be avoided except for making up party
frocks, and even then a net or chiffon
cloth, or light silk is a better investment
for Fall and Winter evening use. Chif
fon cloth, unlike chiffon pure and simple,
does not suffer greatly from humidity,
and all the nets, silk or cotton are ex
cellent between-season investments. Be
careful in selecting your net and avoid
the filet patterns. This because filet has
had such a long run that certainly In
the Fall it will be counted .among the
passe designs. Better far to employ a
.simple dotted, ringed or flowered net,
and trim it with pipings, bias folds or
shlrrlngs of white satin or ribbon in soft
finish.
Right here, a word about slips to be
worn under these little party frocks. Do
not buy taffetas for this purpose. It
has gone out entirely, and soft messallne
or a fine grade of China silk is used in
stead under net, chiffon, etc. For wear
under organdie, batiste or fine lawn, there
is nothing better than a delicately tinted
lawn, blue, pink, green or lavender, ac
cording to the complexion of the wearer.
This may be trimmed with Inexpensive
German Val. lace and will wash and out
wear the silk slip. " f
In general design the favorite party
frock for late Summer wear is what Is
called a semi-princess. That is, the
waist section does not blouse, but is laid
in fine tucks like the upper part of the
skirt and the two are joined by a girdle
of lace or insertion. The girdle is narrow
for a short, stout girl, high for the thin,
tall girl.
Figure A shows one of these frocks
drawn from a model in princess net and
imitation Irish lace, with a touch of Ger
man Val. Princess lace Is a cotton fab
ric with a square mesh on which tiny
flowers are woven. 1 combines well
with plain net tucked for chemisette and
sleeves or with almost any of the inex
pensive laces. For this particular de
sign, a very good imitation Irish crochet
banding at 22 cents a yard was used,
with princess lace at 95 cents a yard, in
44-inch width.
This banding was set off on either edge
by German Val. edging at 35 cents a
bolt, and was employed around the skirt
and to form a low, square neck and cuffs
on the sleeves. The girdle came to a
sharp point in the front and was made of
FIG. C. AFTERNOON GOWN OF PLAIN PONGEE, TRIMMED WITH DOT
TED PONGEE BANDS,
the banding without edging, as the latter ,
gives too much bulk at the waist line.
Another very pretty party frock is Il
lustrated In Figure B, which shows the
apron effect now growing in popularity.
This would be most effective in soft
finished batiste, with batiste insertion ,
and flouncing for trimming. Or the
flouncing may be of batiste embroidery
and the insertions of lace. If batiste in
sertion is employed, get a fine but rathe
open pattern, - suggesting Irish crochet.
The epaulette effect over the shoulder
is very becoming, to the slender girl.
This frock should be worn over a deli
cately tinted silk and may have a match
ing sash in soft faille ribbon, made into
a chou with long ends or in a very long
narrow bow, running up and down but
never across the waist line, and very
long ends. Whatever style of bow is se
lected, there is no girdle. The bow Is fas
tened to the back of the frock a little to
the left of the center. If the sash fabric
is used for girdle, then the empire lines
must be followed, especially for a very
Blender girl, and the girdle be built high.
For best frocks that must do Sunday
duty until Fall settles Into really chilly
days, use either a pongee silk or one of
the veiling weaves, from the simple voiles
to the finest marquisettes. With this
no jacket will be needed until the days
turn cool, ' and then a light-weight tan
coat will always look well.
Do not select one of the bright blues,
as It will fade by Fall. Rather choose a
Massage, Movements, Lotions
M
ASSAGE, administered by an In- i
competent, untrained hand. Is far
more injurious than no treatment 'r
at all, and the efficacy of the massaging
is often threatened if not destroyed, by t
the Incorrect -selection of the emollient
or lotion employed.
The very movement, for Jnstance, which
you think will reduce the fat onthe
throat' Is just the motion to increase
flesh. And the skin which demands feed
ing require one sort of cream while that
which needs flesh-reduction demands an
other. '
Generally speaking, for flabby skin and
wrinkles, the following flesh food is with
out equal for massaging:
Tannin, one-half gramme; lanollne, 30
grammes; oil of sweet almonds, 20
grammes.
Melt the lanollne and the oil In a. double
boiler over a very slow fire. Then add
the tannin, beating the mixture until
quite cool. Use tills massage cream for
flesh -building after bathing in warm
water, which will open the pores of the
skin.
Do not use this, however, if you have
a tendency to acquire superfluous hair.
If the hair grows in spots, such as above
the Hp or under the chin, or you have
a decided down all over the face, use only
the Kentucky Cold Cream formula, so
often quoted In this column.
If the face is very oily, never use cold
cream at all. Massage with high-grade
alcohol (95 per cent) or cucumber milk,
made by the following formula.
Oil of sweet almonds, four ounces; fresh
cucumber juice, ten ounces; essence of
cucumbers, three ounces; white castile
soap, (powdered) one-half ounce; tinc
ture of benzoin, two-thirds drachm.
The juice of cucumbers Is obtained by
geranium If you want ' a brilliant hue,
a grayish-green or pinkish tan If you
want something more subdued. Make
the skirt simply, with hand-run tucks
over the hips. If you employ any trim
ming on the skirt let it be folds of the
material or matching messallne, or bands
of silk, braided with fine soutache. Do
not make a jacket of voile, as they never
set welL -
Have the blouse made with long sleeves
or with elbow sleeves of the fabric and
half sleeves of tucked chiffon cloth over
silk or heavy lace, dyed to match the
voile. The tucker or chemisette must
match the half sleeves or cuffs. A semi
princess or princess frock Is excellent for
Sunday and general dressy wear.
Figure C shows a very pretty design
which you can employ for an afternoon
frock during vacation or a school dress
In the Fall. ' The model from which this
was drawn, was of plain pongee in na
tural tone, trimmed with a dotted pon
gee, the polka dots being In rich golden
brown. It would work out well In linen,
with dotted or. striped linen, for the
bands.
In Figure D you have a very pretty
shirtwaist suit which may be worked out
In linen, madras, cotton voile, repp or
popllnette, any of the heavier tub fabrics
In fact. The buttons on the front of the
skirt and the little frill of embroidery
down the front of the shirtwaist furnish
all the trimming needed.
MARY DEAN.
boiling them in a very little water. Slice
them very thin, skin and all, and let them
cook ciqwly till soft and creamy and
mushy; strain through a fine sieve, and
then through a cloth. Make the- essence
by putting an ounce and a half of the
Juice Into the same quantity of high-proof
alcohol. Put the essence with the soap
in a large Jar or bottle the larger the
better, as the mixture requires much
shaking. After a few hours, when the
soap is dissolved, add the cucumber Juice,
shake until thoroughly mixed, then pour
out Into an earthen bowl and add the oil
and the benzoin, stirring constantly till
you have a creamy liquid. Be sure that
the cucumber juice is strong, for It is the
natural arsenic in the cucumber which
Imparts its wonderfully whitening powers.
Put the emulslbn in small bottles, keep
tightly corked and in -the dark, and al
ways shake before using.
If your neck Is scrawny and discolored,
the yellowish tinge which comes from
long neglect and wearing tight collars,
massage alternately with cold cream and
the following lotion:
Boric acid, 1 drachm: distilled witch
hazel, two ounces: rosewater. two ounces.
E3xercl.se the neck until a.free 'perspira
tion appears, then bathe it off in warm
water and apply the above lotion, with
massage.
Now for massage movements. Facial
massage naturally comes first. Start with
the forehead, placing the fingers of the
right hand on the right temple with
enough firmness to hold the skin in place.
Now with the first 'and second fingers
of the left hand start the massaging with
a rotary movement covering a circular
space about an Inch and a half in di
ameter with each turn, working all the
time from the left side toward the right
.where the right hand is firmly pressed.
lour rotary pressure must be strong
enough to move the muscles against the
frontal bone. Next, with both hands,
using the first and second fingers, attack
the wrinkles above the eye-brows, with
the same circular movement, then gradu
ally work your way around the eye
sockets. This prevents the formation of
crows' feet.
With the three middle fingers of each
hand, now begin on the muscles of the
cheeks, starting at a point Just opposite
the upper half of the ear. Rub upward
and outward, never down, in the rotary
movement described above. To be sure
that you have gripped the facial muscles
properly, see that the drooping lines
about the mouth do not show during the
operation.
The muscles running from the comers
of the mouth to the cheek bones you
manipulate with a movement which is a
cross between clawing and pinching,
very light and quick. Later, to give color
to the cheeks, you may actually pinch
them lightly.
The chin comes next, and here you use
the thumb. The fingers are against the
back of the neck, the palm turned up
ward. Start at the point of the chin and,
with a firm pressure and the same rotary
motion, work backward from chin-point
to throat with the thumbs', while the first
and second fingers of each hand are
working in the same way among the
muscles at the base of the brain and the
upper end- of the spinal column.
For the throat and neck, start directly
under the chin and with a rotary move
ment, work along slanting lines backward
and upward toward the ears.
These are the simplest and most useful
massage movements. For all ordinary
complexion ailments they are all-sufficient.
If you have any serious disfigure
ment, do not attempt to massage It
away, but consult a high-grade surgeon.
KATHERINB MORTON.
Notion Counter Hints.
If your cloth skirt Is torn, ask the
girl at the notion counter for a piece of
what is known as "tailor's tape." This
Is a colored tape with a sticky substance
on one side. Instructions come with the
tape for using it. and a "wrinklehawk"
can be mended with it much better than
by darning. It is basted on the back of
the goods and then a hot iron pressed
over it, thus making the sticky sub
stance cling to the woolen material. A
tear mended in this way is seldom re
marked.' By constant pinning on of ribbons and
collars you have doubtless worn out the
band of an otherwise good shirt waist.
Another trip to the notion counter will
find collar bands in all sizes, with three
buttonholes already worked -In them,
ready to stitch on your waist, for a few
cents. And the girl who cannot afford
to wear hair nets because they cost so
much will find a mohair net which
answers every purpose. These you can
purchase for 3 or 4 cents each, ami one
of them will long outlast the real hair
net.
These and dozens of other labor savers
will be found at every notion counter if
only the girl who is shopping will take
time to flind them out. MARY DEAN.
Butterflies for the Hair.
Hair ornaments are returning to fa
vor, and many of the evening coiffures
support huge butterflies In violet and
gold. Jet Insects, too, are much worn,
and they add grace to a Psyche knot.
Velvet ribbon is arranged in the hair
with a flat bow at the side. This last
Is particularly used for the theater,
and takes the place of a hat- Then,
too. many women are wearing their
hair in huge buns In the" back, around
which quite broad rlbbpn Is fastened
with a bow at the top. This arrange
ment is far from pretty, but it has
become quite popular.
FIG. B. BATISTE DRES
Taking Care of
OWNERS of 'beautiful gems are often
very careless about them. They expect
their jewels to preserve their attractive
properties under all conditions, when in
reality precious stones are like flowers,
and need tender care to preserve their
beauty intact.
The value of a piece of jewelry Is aug
mented by the gems it contains, and If
these are kept bright and clean and un
stained, how much more pleasure will be
derived from their possession. There la
less excuse for wearing dust-dimmed
gems than there Is for wearing soiled
gloves, and the mere fact that a diamond
is a diamond never excuses any neg
lect of its care. Nevertheless, many
women who are fastidiously particular as
to every other detail of their dress do
not think it necessary to bestow the
same care upon their jewelry. Jewels and
Fig. -D. Shirtwaist Suit In Tan Pollnette
gems, however, are most attractive when
properly cleansed by a competent jeweler,
who Is able to produce a brightness and
cleanliness that cannot be obtained by
those not having the facilities for the
purpose. Nevertheless, the gems In
jewelry can easily be cleansed and
brightened by very simple methods, with
the exception of turquoise and pearls,
which require special care in cleaning,
declares Dr. Kunz, the expert in pre
cious stones, In the Saturday Post.
To clean diamonds warm or even hot
water may be used containing one-fourth
part of either alcohol or ammonia: this
may be applied t with a soft linen cloth or
tissue paper, or a perfectly clean, new
brush, and will remove any ordinary lm
purities. These are almost always due to
grease either from perspiration, or from
soap used in washing the hands which
congeals upon all natural gems because
they are cold, and then allows dust from
the atmosphere to gather and adhere to
the stone.
After the diamond has been, thoroughly
WITH APRON FRONT.
Precipus Stones
cleansed with diluted alcohol or am
monia, as above described, it should be
rinsed In clear, warm water, and then
placed In fine boxwood sawdust which 1
free from resinous matter, and which
can be heated - before the gems are
cleansed. The sawdust produces a clearer
and more brilliant surface on the gem.
It may be obtained of any Jeweler.
Jewelers' soap may also be used for clean
ing diamonds, and indeed for most of the
other precious stones, care being taken- to
remove all traces of the soap- by the
application of plenty of warm water and
alcohol or ammonia. Little cleaning
boxes for jewelry containing everything .
required can be obtained.
Rose diamonds, however, if set with a
foiled back, should never be wet only
rubbed off with a soft cloth moistened
with the' same mixture as above de
scribed. For any thorough treatment
they should always be intrusted to a
jeweler, who will clean and refoil them.
Rubies, sapphires, emeralds, aquama
rines, topazs, tourmalines, amethysts and
many other gems may be cleaned and
dried In the same manner as described
for diamonds, with a single precaution;
the water, .with alcohol or ammonia,
should never be hotter than the hand
can bear quite comfortably. This caution
Is due to the fact that these gems fre
quently contain miscroscopic cavities In
closing liquid carbonic acid. So minute
are these Inclusions that thousands may
be present in the space of a square inch.
The heat may cause minute explosions In
these little cavities from the expansion
of the Imprisoned carbonic acid, and thus
flaws or fractures may be produced in the
gem itself. The water, therefore, should
not be too hot.
Agate, bloodstone. Jade, carnellan, black
onyx, and all the other ordinary gems
will stand any amount of washing with
the same liquids: but for chrysoprase it
is important that only ammonia be used
with the water, and not alcohol.
Turquoise, the most sensitive . and
changeable of gem stones. Is not affected,
when genuine and of tru8 color, by am
monia, which is the great grease eradica
tor; but, as with chrysoprase, alcohol
should not be used, as it has a penetra
tive quality, and would deposit any grease
inside the tourquolse and change the
color. Avoid wetting turquoises with
perfumes. ,Many turquoises have been
ruined by them. The alcohol containing
the fatty acids of the perfumes penetrates
the stone and changes the blue copper
coloring to a green. Some turquoises
retain their color for centuries, but others
are very unstable, hence reliable Jewelers
often replace those that change within
six months after sale. To clean a tur
quoise, mix one part of pure spirits of
ammonia with nine parts of wat.
Moisten a clean cloth with this, rub tne
turquoise gently . and quickly, and then
dry with an absolutely pure linen cloth.
The pearl, the queen of gems, which
has reigned for 25 centuries, is not a
mineral substance, as is well know but
is secreted by the pearl oyster. This
gives pearls a different structure, which
renders them exceedingly sensitive and
demands great care in cleaning them.
They are not solid, like mineral gems,
but are made up of thin layers disposed
like the coats of an onion or similar plant
bulb, a mineral and animal substance, on
within another; . and hence if any Im
purity penetrates beneath the surface. If
there is a break or flaw, and gets be
tween these layers. It causes a stain that
cannot be removed. Whole pearls are
not easily acted upon, but half-pearls, or
those that have been drilled for neck
laces, are liable to injury in cleaning.
For whole pearls, a mixture of lukewarm
water and alcohol not more than a tea
spoonful to a glass may be used.
As a rule. It is wise to remove rings
when washing the hands, especially those
containing pearls or turquoises. Cars
should also be taken In applying perfumes
to the hands, as they all contain more
or less alcohol with essential oils.