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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 26, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, JtTLT 26, 190S. BY A. El GTTTTON'. ma TTCH has been said about the old Coos Bay Wagon Road, that high- way In Southern Oregon which ex tend from Roaeburg In Douglas County to Marshfleld In Coos County, and over which the malls are carried from the railroad Into Coos Bay. It Is also one of the three overland passenger routes con necting that part of the coast with the railroad. On account of the slowness of the mails In the Winter, the road has re ceived the condemnation of the coast peo ple and has been blamed for many short comings. But whatever may be said of It on that score it is certain that the Coos Bay wagon road as a route for anyone who enjoys a mountain tramp, offers as beautiful scenery and attractive varia . tlons as any part of the coast country. The road Is one which was built years ago and for the construction of which the Southern Oregon Company received large tracts of timber land. The stage line runs in Summer, making dally trips from Rose burg and Coos Bay and carries passengers and mail. In Winter the road is impass able for stage and the mail is carried on pack horses, often with much delay and accident. Getting out of Coos Bay on foot might sound very inviting when it is considered that It is some 72 miles to a railroad, but this feat was undertaken by two Coos Bay men, one an Oregonlan representative, as a matter of sport and pleasure, and was easily accomplished In three days. A more enjoyable .trip could scarcely be planned In this part of the country. The starting point of the wagon road Is at Sumner, an old settlement noted for its cheese fatfory, and located about 12 miles from Marshfleld. From the latter city It is necessary to take the mail boat up Isthmus Inlet, leaving at 6 A. M. After leaving the boat there is a ride of a mile and a half on a handcar over a narrow gauge railroad, and you are land ed at Sumner with the mail bags. The st age leaves with lis passengers and Uncle Sam's mail pouches. The boat trip has cut off part of the distance, so there is just about 60 miles walk into Rose burg ahead of the traveler. Captain Harris, the pioneer cheese mak er and old settler of Sumner, will give you a cheerful farewell as he smiles and thinks to himself what a fool you are to walk tt. But never mind, there is lets of fun ahead. If You Don't Hurry. By this time It is 8:30 and the real walk begins. Properly to enjoy the trip one must not think of the 60 miles to be cov ered over the mountains, but just walk and feast the eyes on everything pleasing there is In the way of scenery. There should be no terrible and wearisome hur ry. All that is necessary is to regulate speed sufficiently that a station will be readied at meal hours and bedtime. The meals and sleeping accomodations are first-class and the charge In each case is only 25 cents if one Is there on time. Stage passengers are charged more, but tlia is because meals must be served at irregular hours. Soon after leaving Sumner one plunges Into the woods and in a very short time the road begins to go up and the walker discovers that he is tackling the first mountain. This should be taken easily. There are refreshing springs bubbling out of the rocks, graceful twists of the road each presenting a new scene and heavy timber and thick underbrush giving suf ficient shade, so that It is not necessary to be too much under the rays of the sun. The chances are that Road Commissioner Norton will happen along on his saddle horse inspecting the highway and will en tertain one for a mile or two. In Fairvlew Valley. The road keeps on winding up, the "cor duroy" is encountered which indicates a steep Incline, but the summit is finally reached. There is a walk down the other side and the traveler suddenly emerging from the timber, finds himself in Fair view Valley. Here the space between mountains widens out and there is a con siderable expanse of flat land occupied by ranchers. This is the "case throughout the trip. While the mountain districts are as wild as could be desired, the valleys are dotted with farms which give a reliev ing variation. The number of newly es tablished pioneer homes is surprising. Kairview, a postoffice and stage etation, ts easily reached by noon, and a good din ner can be bought and after a rest the Journey Is continued wfth Dora, another postoffice and Btage station, as the desti nation for the night. The road from Fairvlew leads to a bridge across the North Fork of the Coquille River. The heat of the mid day tempts the tramper to indulge in a few minutes 'wading, with the result that he is much refreshed, and Is ready for the gradual uphill course before him. The road follows through more woods, over the top of a long flat 'mountain, and then dips down into an other valley where is reached McKln ley, consisting of a school, a house, a barn and a bridge. By this time the walker i beginning to feel hot, and really hot. The cool weather of Coos Bay has been left be hind, the ocean breezes do not reach so far inland, and if the walk Is a brisk one, the rays of the sun are felt. But the luxuriant foliage and peaceful quiet of the country Is so en joyable that the pleasure of simply be ing there Is worth experiencing a lit tle heat. Besides, there is no use hur rying. It is a pleasure trip, it must be remembered, and if one feels hot he can simply go it a little more easily. Wild Fruit Along the Road. The salmon berries growing along the road at this time of the year will cause some natural delay. The first bush encountered the walker trlps of Its fruit, but soon the bushes are found to be so many in number he will only deign to pick the most luscious and larger berries, which are within easy reach. When the big yellow salmon berries grow tiresome there are wild blackberries, quite as good and equally ves plentiful. A few wild berries, by the way, are a rood thing to eat while walking If one craves a drink of water. They will quench the thirst to a degree until the next spring or well is reached. After leaving McKinley more ranches are passed. Many of these homes are new, and are located in rough, wild places, which are being cleared. Illus trating vividly the pioneering that is being done in this part of Oregon." Through this district there are many little brooks, in one of which another wade can be taken preparatory to the last dash for supper. This meal can not be obtained without another climb. After a rest on the banks of one of the streams the walker goes up a steep mountain and down the other side to lora. By this time. If one has not . hurried too much, it Is about 5 o'clock, nnd there Is a chance for a general brushing and cleaning before eating the bountiful supper which is pro vided. After a smoke on the cozy, rose-bowered front porch of the stage f-ntlon, bedtlms leems to come quickly. :out 16 miles have been walked, and an early start must be mad the next rJHREE DAYS DELIGHTFUL TRAMP OVER TfJEMQifN- ROSEBlRG liwk"'- ------ :v, ... , aw u -:- -r-r ' if lgig gkvJM - -il.l". .' - 1 "J "J 'JLAL-ZZZr. J K&fiV - f KVTS1 1 lilt .i2?' vf-u-t"" !s - if J 9 . .' - vfc- ilk A u L flay, so It i not surprising that day- llftht will still be showing: through the window when the tiaveler falls ; asleep. Xot Large, but Beautiful. Dora Is a postoffice. There is sim ply the one house there. The place Is a ranch conducted by . E. bchofield, who, with the assistance of several of the fairer eex of his family, sets ah excellent meal, and provides comfort able rooms. Stage passengers are the usual boarders, but pedestrians are not uncommon as guests at the place. The house is a quaint little structure Hn a flower-laden yard, and offer Just the kind of stopping place desired by one In the humor a man ought to be when taking a walking trip. It may be hard to get up when called the next morning, but It is Imperative. One look out of the window at the bright morning light encourages a stirring about as a prompt start must be made, as this will be the heavy day for walking. There are 27 miles to cover, and the major part of It over the big mountain. But a good breakfast at 7 o'clock, and the delight of being in the woodland road soon encountered, remove the worst kind of a grouch. One of the first land marks after leaving Dora l the old cabin belong ing to R. A. Easton. The owner has long since moved into a fine little cot tage, but he still retains on his ranch the old cabin, a relic of his pioneer days. The deserted house is covered with vines rich in blossom, and la a mofft pleasing picture. If the travelor has the good for tune to meet Mr. Easton himself he will learn all the details about the roads, and also have a talk wlth-one of the most wideawake of the old pioneer ranchers of that district. This same sociability on the part of the ranchers throughout the trip makes the traveler feel that he la welcome. The people he meets on the road atop and chat, and at the places where he stops Be is made to feel at home. In Brewster Canyon. From the valley In which the Easton home Is located, the road starts up a hill. There Is climbing to do, but It is as though it were a preparation for the big one comlnjr. The road winds round the aide of the mountain. Be low, a hundred feet or more, runs the river, and on -the other side of the road great rocks tower up, and In the background all around are mountains. This is Brewster Canyon. It is here one first obtains a view of Sugar Flnu Mountain, which he must cross, and firet feels the grand beauty of the coast range, and realizes that he is mountain-climbing. There Is nothing overtaxing on the strength before reaching Laird's. The road where it makes a turn at the bot tom of a mountain passes Sitkum post office and leads on to Laird's station, which Is a welcome dinner stop after making nine miles since breakfast. It is the last chance to eat or sleep In doors unless the big mountain Is crossed and the next station 17 miles distant is reached. Laird's Is a ranch located in the noted Brewster Valley, a favorite lo cality as- a camping place for both Coos and Douglas County people, and It is a district where oats grow as tall as a man and meadows produce several crops of hay. It Is here that the stage horses and drivers change and meals are served, and it has the distinction of being probably the most Isolated place In the state having a telegraph office. It is the only station on the telegraph line between Roseburg and Coos Bay. and In this little house at the foot of the mountain can be had direct telegraph connections with Port land. Seventeen Miles to Supper. In seating one's self at the Laird dinner table it must not be forgotten that this is the last chance to eat until the Sugar Pine Mountain has been crossed. Therefore wisely partake of everything, for supper Is 17 miles and a good many hours away. Do not miss any of those fine pork and beans, new potatoes, meat, hot biscuits or coffee and do not turn down a second helping. By all means reach at least twice for that delicious lemon pie. Mrs. Laird la famous for her lemon pie, and there Is always plenty of it. Thus fortified, a good man feels equal to crossing the Rockies on foot, and the Coast Range seems as nothing. Af ter leaving Laird's the "half-way honse" Is passed, and this is about the last of human habitations for a while. The old house was burned down and Is being rebuilt. The Sitkum postoffice was formerly 1 oca-ted her. Sitkum Is the Indian name for "'half -way," and this house Is exactly the midway point of the wagon road, but after the fire the postoffice was moved a mile or two nearer the Coos Bay end. It Is 12 miles up to the summit of Sugar Pine from the Coos Bay side and four miles down on the other side. The summit Is 2250 feet above sea level. It Is a long, gradual ascent, steep and rocky in some places, but a stretch of 12 miles affording as much entrancing scenery as any. part of Oregon. Even while he gasps for wreath, lost In the enthusiasm of climbing to still a high er point, the traveler must find still another gasp for expressions of delight when he suddenly comes upon a water fall, a new turn of the road or some scene even more captivating than the last. Amid Fine Mountain Scenery. The wagon road In a general Way follows a branch of the Coquille, hav ing its source on the summit of the mountain. It flows over the rocks far below and keeps up a constant chat ter, cooling to the heated traveler, and driving away feny feeling of lonesome ness. Occasionally the stream is crossed by a bridge, which In one case Is a peculiar structure made in the form of the letter S. necessarily be cause .of the mountain formation. At places the road dips down near the stream and a swimming hole or wading place can be found. No end of streams and springs bubble out of the rockb, so there is no need to worry about drink ing water. A little cabin, now deserted, but once the residence of a settler who has proved up on his homestead, is 6een on one corner of s peak, and one thinks that the occupant must have been a real pioneer. .The waterfalls, of which there are a number, mate up one of the greatest beauties of the mountains. One gushes out in a great stream three feet in-diameter, pouring from a hole in a big rock with such force that It would seem some great power must be behind It or that It might be utilized for power. Another fall is first seen at a distance through the underbrush and trees. As the 'road turns it appears before the view. The sun as it finds Its way through the tree tops gleams upon this miniature Niagara, and as the brilliant, sparkling water plays over the rocks the eyes feast upon tlon could excel. On the opposite side of the road the foliage is so thick the chasm is black and forbidding and one Instinctively waits for the goblins to appear and be subdued by the water call sprites, so suggestive is the fairy land impression. Ona thinks of old Rip Van Winkle in the Catskills and little wonders that he slept for twenty years if Hendrlck Hudson led him through such a pjace as thi3. The road at one point takes quite a decline and one thinks that the sura mite is past. But not so; Jt is Just a delusion. There Is more to climb and lots of it. The trees increase in size before 'the divide is crossed and the traveler is at times in the midst of as fine specimens of Oregon fir as he could wish to see. The Btately trees tower up over 200 feet from the ground and add a peculiar dignity to the sur roundings. About two miles from the top the county line la crossed and finally the last Incline Is covered and the olimber finds himself under the skies in a big cleared place. There are no more trees above and there Is no higher to go. This is the summit, the highest point of that particular part of the Coast Range. While a much-needed rest on the grass is being enjoyed the stage from Coos Bay will probably arrive. The stage has been easy to beat by the walker up the mountain, for the horses must go slow, but it will be different going down. Driver Sampson is an old-timer and he will not overtax his horses making the hard pulls up the mountain, but when he starts down he goes. The most delightful surprise of the trip Is In store for the traveler when he makes the descent. For a short dis tance from the summit the road leads through thick timber and then turns abruptly along the side of the moun tain, thus exposing to view the terri tory for miles and miles In three di rections. It Is a sudden transforma tion. From this point on the crest of the Coast Range may be seen the das cade , Mountains and Bnow-capped peaks, the smaller mountains more In the foreground, and below a lovely and fertile valley with the setting sun lighting It all with a golden glow. Weary limbs, blistered feet, late sup per, every Inconvenience that mlghk have worried the traveler are one and all forgotten. The sight is enough to repay any lover of the beautiful for all the physical effort he has expended. After going down the mountain and covering a couple of miles of more level road to the Johnson stage station supper tastes mighty good. It will be close on to I P. It by that time. The Johnson Is a big ranch, and several houses are clustered together, much on the order of the plantations of the South, and there Is every convenience to be found. Good, hard walking over about 27 mfles of rough road, all ups and downs, has been accomplished, but when the weary traveler stretches out in one of Mrs.. Johnson's comfortable beds all else but sleep is forgotten. In the Beautiful TJmpqua. The next morning there Is no great hurry about starting, as onlv 16 miles of the 60-mile jaunt are left to b walked. But it Is well to start early In the day and rest when the sun Is hottest. The walk is through an agri cultural district. A little settlement called Looking Glass is . midway and there a splendid dinner and several hours' rest can be enjoyed at the hotel. The walk of eight miles farther to Rosenburg can be madodurlng the lat ter part of the afternoon when the heat Is not so Intense. The approach to Roseburg gives an excellent idea of the splendid agricul tural and fruit belt of Douglas Coun ty. The road leads aronnd the side of a mountain and looks down upon a big stretch of the fertile Umpqua val ley with its fine farms. The distant view of Roseburg Is at tractive, and the visitor is not disap pointed on making a closer inspection of this thriving little city on the -Southern Pacific Railroad. Thus the trip of 60 miles over the Coos Bay wagon road is easily made in three days. It could- be walked in two days, but for a pleasure trip that is a little too much haste and hard work and would not admit of the proper enjoyment of the scenery. It is best not to go too hard the first day and put in the most strenuous work the second day. No more delightful trip can be select ed in Oregon, and it costs but about 13. That is all it Is possible to spend and the accommodations are good. The trip can be made from Portland by rail to Rose burg in about seven hours, the walk over the mountains in three days and a visit made at Coos Bay while waiting for the next Portland boat. Such a trip includes railroad travel and city visits, walking over the mountains and boat travel and sea. If one does not care to walk, the stags makes regular trips in each direction. The horses are changed at Intervals and the best time possible is made consid ering the mountain roads, but some rough during must, of course, be expected. Some young ladles have planned to make the trip. There Is no reason why they could not, if they are good walkers and take mora time, perhaps four days. The trip can ba made in a wagon, car rying a camping outfit, and many nice places found to stop for the night. To pack a camping outfit on a walk is a little too burdensome for pleasure, and then those stage station meals are too good to miss. There are a few pointers worth remem bering In attempting this trip, or any other long walk, for that matter. Wear heavy shoes, which do not hurt the feet. If you are not aura of your shoes better take an old pair to fall back on. Carry extra hosiery. A. hole in the heel makes misery. Take a small snap-shot camera, for If you do not, you will want it many times. Carry a folding drinking cup and drink all the mountain water you want, and as often as you wane It will not hurt you. A small bottle of Witch Hazel or alco hol with which to rub the sore muscles at night will help out a lot for one not accustomed to walking, and a 10-cent bot tle of "new skin," while it may be laughed at by some, will save a lot of pain, if you walk a blister on your foot It Is Just as well to be prepared to that extent. These little things may be car ried in a pack strapped on the back, but do not burden yourself with too much luggage. A small pack and a camera is all you will want to take care of. If you make the 60 miles on foot with this much freight you will feel ten years youngfr and want to turn right around and walk back. At any rate, you will have the satisfac tion, after Coos Bay has a railroad, of knowing that you once walked out or in and may rightfully be called a pioneer. WHAT THE NEWSPAPER WITS SAY An Easy Word. Dundee Advertiser. This is what happened to a Glasgow worklngman when he tried to make his wife's home life happy by reading the police news to her as contained in his evening paper. In due course he reached an interesting trial for assault, the re port of which concluded as follows: "This case was held over until tonjor row," as, the presiding magistrate said he found considerable difficulty in pro nouncing sentence." "Dear me," commented the reader's wife, "he eanna hae been a man o' muckle education, surely, or he wadna hae found any difficulty in pronouncln" an easy wee word like that" Satan Terrified. There Is as great genius displayed In advertising as In the higher branches of literature. No problem daunts the mod ern advertising man. In the window of a little book store In Charing Cross Road, London, was re cently heaped a great pile of Bibles, marked very low never before were Bibles offered at such a bargain; and above them all. In big letters, was the Inscription: t . "Satan trembles when ha sees . Bibles sold at low as these." A Gentle Husband. London Answers. Woman (to her husband, busily engaged writing) My dear, correctly speaking, what is a dentist? Husband (crossly) what only fairyland of keen lmaglna- derived from ent, French for teeth, a man who pulls teeth. (Husband settles down to writing again.) Wife My dear you said this morning that linguist was derived from the Latin lingua, a tongue. Husband (crossly) Yes. Wife Well, dear, is a linguist a man who pulls tongues? Husband No, madam, but I wish he did. In Lengthy Terms. Judge's Library. In ; the suburbs of one of our great cities recently a new resident stopped in front of his neighbor's gate and Inquired of the boy swinging thereon: Is your pa home, sonny? - "No, sir," replied the lad. up the road apiece. "Gone afoot?" "No; about a mile." "Ha went For Slow Readers. Pearson's Weekly. A restaurant keeper noticed that some of his customers annexed the current day's papers for an lirltatingly long time. He hit on this little piece of sarcasm. Prominently displayed on the walls was the announcement: "Those learning to' read are requested to use yesterday's newspapers." Botany to Rescue of Shipwrecked. New Orloans Times-Democrat "There is no reason, save Ignorance, why shipwrecked sailors die In their open boats of starvation." The speaker was a botanlsf. "Let the shipwrecked include a "light net In their luggage," he said, "and let them trail the net behind them as they sail or row over the sea's surface. Every few hours they can haul in and take from it a meal or small shellfish or other tiny sea fruit "Everywhere the sea's surface teems with animal and vegetable matter capa ble of sustaining life." In an Emergency. Wllkesbarre Times-Leader. Stage manager The star is cast for Beau Brummel, but he's got a three weeks' growth of beard and the curtain's about to rise. Manager Change the bill to "King Lear." Two Living Cheaper Than One. ' Kansas City Times. "You don't believe, then, that two can live cheaper than one?" "I do in some cases," replied Titewad. "Two ordinary women live cheaper than the one I married." Knew Girl Nature. "We were overstocked with ladles' ties, but our boss was smart enough to work them oft." "How did he manage it?" "Simply enough. Put 'em In the men's department." What Father Heard. Yonkers Statesman. "I heard you in he parlor last night with that Mr. HuRgins." "But. father! We were very quiet" "Yes; that's what I heard."
