THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, JtTLT 26, 190S.
BY A. El GTTTTON'.
ma TTCH has been said about the old
Coos Bay Wagon Road, that high-
way In Southern Oregon which ex
tend from Roaeburg In Douglas County
to Marshfleld In Coos County, and over
which the malls are carried from the
railroad Into Coos Bay. It Is also one of
the three overland passenger routes con
necting that part of the coast with the
railroad. On account of the slowness of
the mails In the Winter, the road has re
ceived the condemnation of the coast peo
ple and has been blamed for many short
comings. But whatever may be said of
It on that score it is certain that the Coos
Bay wagon road as a route for anyone
who enjoys a mountain tramp, offers as
beautiful scenery and attractive varia
. tlons as any part of the coast country.
The road Is one which was built years
ago and for the construction of which the
Southern Oregon Company received large
tracts of timber land. The stage line runs
in Summer, making dally trips from Rose
burg and Coos Bay and carries passengers
and mail. In Winter the road is impass
able for stage and the mail is carried on
pack horses, often with much delay and
accident.
Getting out of Coos Bay on foot might
sound very inviting when it is considered
that It is some 72 miles to a railroad, but
this feat was undertaken by two Coos Bay
men, one an Oregonlan representative, as
a matter of sport and pleasure, and was
easily accomplished In three days. A
more enjoyable .trip could scarcely be
planned In this part of the country.
The starting point of the wagon road Is
at Sumner, an old settlement noted for
its cheese fatfory, and located about 12
miles from Marshfleld. From the latter
city It is necessary to take the mail boat
up Isthmus Inlet, leaving at 6 A. M.
After leaving the boat there is a ride of
a mile and a half on a handcar over a
narrow gauge railroad, and you are land
ed at Sumner with the mail bags. The
st age leaves with lis passengers and
Uncle Sam's mail pouches. The boat trip
has cut off part of the distance, so there
is just about 60 miles walk into Rose burg
ahead of the traveler.
Captain Harris, the pioneer cheese mak
er and old settler of Sumner, will give
you a cheerful farewell as he smiles and
thinks to himself what a fool you are to
walk tt. But never mind, there is lets of
fun ahead.
If You Don't Hurry.
By this time It is 8:30 and the real walk
begins. Properly to enjoy the trip one
must not think of the 60 miles to be cov
ered over the mountains, but just walk
and feast the eyes on everything pleasing
there is In the way of scenery. There
should be no terrible and wearisome hur
ry. All that is necessary is to regulate
speed sufficiently that a station will be
readied at meal hours and bedtime. The
meals and sleeping accomodations are
first-class and the charge In each case is
only 25 cents if one Is there on time.
Stage passengers are charged more, but
tlia is because meals must be served at
irregular hours.
Soon after leaving Sumner one plunges
Into the woods and in a very short time
the road begins to go up and the walker
discovers that he is tackling the first
mountain. This should be taken easily.
There are refreshing springs bubbling out
of the rocks, graceful twists of the road
each presenting a new scene and heavy
timber and thick underbrush giving suf
ficient shade, so that It is not necessary
to be too much under the rays of the sun.
The chances are that Road Commissioner
Norton will happen along on his saddle
horse inspecting the highway and will en
tertain one for a mile or two.
In Fairvlew Valley.
The road keeps on winding up, the "cor
duroy" is encountered which indicates a
steep Incline, but the summit is finally
reached. There is a walk down the other
side and the traveler suddenly emerging
from the timber, finds himself in Fair
view Valley. Here the space between
mountains widens out and there is a con
siderable expanse of flat land occupied
by ranchers. This is the "case throughout
the trip. While the mountain districts are
as wild as could be desired, the valleys
are dotted with farms which give a reliev
ing variation. The number of newly es
tablished pioneer homes is surprising.
Kairview, a postoffice and stage etation,
ts easily reached by noon, and a good din
ner can be bought and after a rest the
Journey Is continued wfth Dora, another
postoffice and Btage station, as the desti
nation for the night.
The road from Fairvlew leads to a
bridge across the North Fork of the
Coquille River. The heat of the mid
day tempts the tramper to indulge in a
few minutes 'wading, with the result
that he is much refreshed, and Is ready
for the gradual uphill course before
him. The road follows through more
woods, over the top of a long flat
'mountain, and then dips down into an
other valley where is reached McKln
ley, consisting of a school, a house, a
barn and a bridge.
By this time the walker i beginning
to feel hot, and really hot. The cool
weather of Coos Bay has been left be
hind, the ocean breezes do not reach
so far inland, and if the walk Is a
brisk one, the rays of the sun are
felt. But the luxuriant foliage and
peaceful quiet of the country Is so en
joyable that the pleasure of simply be
ing there Is worth experiencing a lit
tle heat. Besides, there is no use hur
rying. It is a pleasure trip, it must
be remembered, and if one feels hot
he can simply go it a little more
easily.
Wild Fruit Along the Road.
The salmon berries growing along
the road at this time of the year will
cause some natural delay. The first
bush encountered the walker trlps of
Its fruit, but soon the bushes are found
to be so many in number he will only
deign to pick the most luscious and
larger berries, which are within easy
reach. When the big yellow salmon
berries grow tiresome there are wild
blackberries, quite as good and equally
ves plentiful.
A few wild berries, by the way, are a
rood thing to eat while walking If one
craves a drink of water. They will
quench the thirst to a degree until the
next spring or well is reached.
After leaving McKinley more ranches
are passed. Many of these homes are
new, and are located in rough, wild
places, which are being cleared. Illus
trating vividly the pioneering that is
being done in this part of Oregon."
Through this district there are many
little brooks, in one of which another
wade can be taken preparatory to the
last dash for supper. This meal can
not be obtained without another climb.
After a rest on the banks of one of the
streams the walker goes up a steep
mountain and down the other side to
lora. By this time. If one has not
. hurried too much, it Is about 5 o'clock,
nnd there Is a chance for a general
brushing and cleaning before eating
the bountiful supper which is pro
vided. After a smoke on the cozy,
rose-bowered front porch of the stage
f-ntlon, bedtlms leems to come quickly.
:out 16 miles have been walked, and
an early start must be mad the next
rJHREE DAYS DELIGHTFUL TRAMP OVER TfJEMQifN-
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llftht will still be showing: through
the window when the tiaveler falls ;
asleep.
Xot Large, but Beautiful.
Dora Is a postoffice. There is sim
ply the one house there. The place
Is a ranch conducted by . E. bchofield,
who, with the assistance of several of
the fairer eex of his family, sets ah
excellent meal, and provides comfort
able rooms. Stage passengers are the
usual boarders, but pedestrians are not
uncommon as guests at the place. The
house is a quaint little structure Hn a
flower-laden yard, and offer Just the
kind of stopping place desired by one
In the humor a man ought to be when
taking a walking trip.
It may be hard to get up when called
the next morning, but It is Imperative.
One look out of the window at the
bright morning light encourages a
stirring about as a prompt start
must be made, as this will be the
heavy day for walking. There are 27
miles to cover, and the major part of
It over the big mountain. But a good
breakfast at 7 o'clock, and the delight
of being in the woodland road soon
encountered, remove the worst kind
of a grouch.
One of the first land marks after
leaving Dora l the old cabin belong
ing to R. A. Easton. The owner has
long since moved into a fine little cot
tage, but he still retains on his ranch
the old cabin, a relic of his pioneer
days. The deserted house is covered
with vines rich in blossom, and la a
mofft pleasing picture.
If the travelor has the good for
tune to meet Mr. Easton himself he
will learn all the details about the
roads, and also have a talk wlth-one
of the most wideawake of the old pioneer
ranchers of that district.
This same sociability on the part of
the ranchers throughout the trip makes
the traveler feel that he la welcome.
The people he meets on the road atop
and chat, and at the places where he
stops Be is made to feel at home.
In Brewster Canyon.
From the valley In which the Easton
home Is located, the road starts up a
hill. There Is climbing to do, but It
is as though it were a preparation for
the big one comlnjr. The road winds
round the aide of the mountain. Be
low, a hundred feet or more, runs the
river, and on -the other side of the
road great rocks tower up, and In the
background all around are mountains.
This is Brewster Canyon. It is here
one first obtains a view of Sugar Flnu
Mountain, which he must cross, and
firet feels the grand beauty of the
coast range, and realizes that he is
mountain-climbing.
There Is nothing overtaxing on the
strength before reaching Laird's. The
road where it makes a turn at the bot
tom of a mountain passes Sitkum post
office and leads on to Laird's station,
which Is a welcome dinner stop after
making nine miles since breakfast. It
is the last chance to eat or sleep In
doors unless the big mountain Is
crossed and the next station 17 miles
distant is reached.
Laird's Is a ranch located in the
noted Brewster Valley, a favorite lo
cality as- a camping place for both
Coos and Douglas County people, and It
is a district where oats grow as tall
as a man and meadows produce several
crops of hay. It Is here that the stage
horses and drivers change and meals
are served, and it has the distinction
of being probably the most Isolated
place In the state having a telegraph
office. It is the only station on the
telegraph line between Roseburg and
Coos Bay. and In this little house at
the foot of the mountain can be had
direct telegraph connections with Port
land. Seventeen Miles to Supper.
In seating one's self at the Laird
dinner table it must not be forgotten
that this is the last chance to eat until
the Sugar Pine Mountain has been
crossed. Therefore wisely partake of
everything, for supper Is 17 miles and a
good many hours away. Do not
miss any of those fine pork and beans,
new potatoes, meat, hot biscuits or
coffee and do not turn down a second
helping. By all means reach at least
twice for that delicious lemon pie. Mrs.
Laird la famous for her lemon pie,
and there Is always plenty of it.
Thus fortified, a good man feels equal
to crossing the Rockies on foot, and
the Coast Range seems as nothing. Af
ter leaving Laird's the "half-way
honse" Is passed, and this is about the
last of human habitations for a while.
The old house was burned down and
Is being rebuilt. The Sitkum postoffice
was formerly 1 oca-ted her. Sitkum Is
the Indian name for "'half -way," and
this house Is exactly the midway point
of the wagon road, but after the fire
the postoffice was moved a mile or
two nearer the Coos Bay end.
It Is 12 miles up to the summit of
Sugar Pine from the Coos Bay side and
four miles down on the other side. The
summit Is 2250 feet above sea level.
It Is a long, gradual ascent, steep and
rocky in some places, but a stretch of
12 miles affording as much entrancing
scenery as any. part of Oregon. Even
while he gasps for wreath, lost In the
enthusiasm of climbing to still a high
er point, the traveler must find still
another gasp for expressions of delight
when he suddenly comes upon a water
fall, a new turn of the road or some
scene even more captivating than the
last.
Amid Fine Mountain Scenery.
The wagon road In a general Way
follows a branch of the Coquille, hav
ing its source on the summit of the
mountain. It flows over the rocks far
below and keeps up a constant chat
ter, cooling to the heated traveler, and
driving away feny feeling of lonesome
ness. Occasionally the stream is
crossed by a bridge, which In one case
Is a peculiar structure made in the
form of the letter S. necessarily be
cause .of the mountain formation. At
places the road dips down near the
stream and a swimming hole or wading
place can be found. No end of streams
and springs bubble out of the rockb, so
there is no need to worry about drink
ing water. A little cabin, now deserted,
but once the residence of a settler who
has proved up on his homestead, is
6een on one corner of s peak, and one
thinks that the occupant must have been
a real pioneer.
.The waterfalls, of which there are a
number, mate up one of the greatest
beauties of the mountains. One gushes
out in a great stream three feet in-diameter,
pouring from a hole in a big
rock with such force that It would
seem some great power must be behind
It or that It might be utilized for
power. Another fall is first seen at
a distance through the underbrush and
trees. As the 'road turns it appears
before the view. The sun as it finds
Its way through the tree tops gleams
upon this miniature Niagara, and as
the brilliant, sparkling water plays
over the rocks the eyes feast upon
tlon could excel. On the opposite side
of the road the foliage is so thick
the chasm is black and forbidding and
one Instinctively waits for the goblins
to appear and be subdued by the water
call sprites, so suggestive is the fairy
land impression. Ona thinks of old Rip
Van Winkle in the Catskills and little
wonders that he slept for twenty years
if Hendrlck Hudson led him through
such a pjace as thi3.
The road at one point takes quite a
decline and one thinks that the sura
mite is past. But not so; Jt is Just a
delusion. There Is more to climb and
lots of it. The trees increase in size
before 'the divide is crossed and the
traveler is at times in the midst of as
fine specimens of Oregon fir as he
could wish to see. The Btately trees
tower up over 200 feet from the ground
and add a peculiar dignity to the sur
roundings. About two miles from the top the
county line la crossed and finally the
last Incline Is covered and the olimber
finds himself under the skies in a big
cleared place. There are no more trees
above and there Is no higher to go.
This is the summit, the highest point
of that particular part of the Coast
Range.
While a much-needed rest on the
grass is being enjoyed the stage from
Coos Bay will probably arrive. The
stage has been easy to beat by the
walker up the mountain, for the horses
must go slow, but it will be different
going down. Driver Sampson is an
old-timer and he will not overtax his
horses making the hard pulls up the
mountain, but when he starts down he
goes.
The most delightful surprise of the
trip Is In store for the traveler when
he makes the descent. For a short dis
tance from the summit the road leads
through thick timber and then turns
abruptly along the side of the moun
tain, thus exposing to view the terri
tory for miles and miles In three di
rections. It Is a sudden transforma
tion. From this point on the crest of
the Coast Range may be seen the das
cade , Mountains and Bnow-capped
peaks, the smaller mountains more In
the foreground, and below a lovely and
fertile valley with the setting sun
lighting It all with a golden glow.
Weary limbs, blistered feet, late sup
per, every Inconvenience that mlghk
have worried the traveler are one and
all forgotten. The sight is enough to
repay any lover of the beautiful for
all the physical effort he has expended.
After going down the mountain and
covering a couple of miles of more
level road to the Johnson stage station
supper tastes mighty good. It will be
close on to I P. It by that time. The
Johnson Is a big ranch, and several
houses are clustered together, much on
the order of the plantations of the
South, and there Is every convenience
to be found.
Good, hard walking over about 27
mfles of rough road, all ups and downs,
has been accomplished, but when the
weary traveler stretches out in one of
Mrs.. Johnson's comfortable beds all
else but sleep is forgotten.
In the Beautiful TJmpqua.
The next morning there Is no great
hurry about starting, as onlv 16 miles
of the 60-mile jaunt are left to b
walked. But it Is well to start early
In the day and rest when the sun Is
hottest. The walk is through an agri
cultural district. A little settlement
called Looking Glass is . midway and
there a splendid dinner and several
hours' rest can be enjoyed at the hotel.
The walk of eight miles farther to
Rosenburg can be madodurlng the lat
ter part of the afternoon when the
heat Is not so Intense.
The approach to Roseburg gives an
excellent idea of the splendid agricul
tural and fruit belt of Douglas Coun
ty. The road leads aronnd the side
of a mountain and looks down upon a
big stretch of the fertile Umpqua val
ley with its fine farms.
The distant view of Roseburg Is at
tractive, and the visitor is not disap
pointed on making a closer inspection
of this thriving little city on the
-Southern Pacific Railroad.
Thus the trip of 60 miles over the
Coos Bay wagon road is easily made
in three days. It could- be walked in
two days, but for a pleasure trip that
is a little too much haste and hard
work and would not admit of the
proper enjoyment of the scenery. It
is best not to go too hard the first
day and put in the most strenuous
work the second day.
No more delightful trip can be select
ed in Oregon, and it costs but about 13.
That is all it Is possible to spend and the
accommodations are good. The trip can
be made from Portland by rail to Rose
burg in about seven hours, the walk over
the mountains in three days and a visit
made at Coos Bay while waiting for the
next Portland boat. Such a trip includes
railroad travel and city visits, walking
over the mountains and boat travel and
sea.
If one does not care to walk, the stags
makes regular trips in each direction.
The horses are changed at Intervals and
the best time possible is made consid
ering the mountain roads, but some rough
during must, of course, be expected.
Some young ladles have planned to
make the trip. There Is no reason why
they could not, if they are good walkers
and take mora time, perhaps four days.
The trip can ba made in a wagon, car
rying a camping outfit, and many nice
places found to stop for the night. To
pack a camping outfit on a walk is a
little too burdensome for pleasure, and
then those stage station meals are too
good to miss.
There are a few pointers worth remem
bering In attempting this trip, or any
other long walk, for that matter. Wear
heavy shoes, which do not hurt the feet.
If you are not aura of your shoes better
take an old pair to fall back on.
Carry extra hosiery. A. hole in the heel
makes misery.
Take a small snap-shot camera, for If
you do not, you will want it many times.
Carry a folding drinking cup and drink
all the mountain water you want, and
as often as you wane It will not hurt
you.
A small bottle of Witch Hazel or alco
hol with which to rub the sore muscles
at night will help out a lot for one not
accustomed to walking, and a 10-cent bot
tle of "new skin," while it may be
laughed at by some, will save a lot of
pain, if you walk a blister on your foot
It Is Just as well to be prepared to that
extent. These little things may be car
ried in a pack strapped on the back, but
do not burden yourself with too much
luggage. A small pack and a camera is
all you will want to take care of. If you
make the 60 miles on foot with this much
freight you will feel ten years youngfr
and want to turn right around and walk
back.
At any rate, you will have the satisfac
tion, after Coos Bay has a railroad, of
knowing that you once walked out or
in and may rightfully be called a
pioneer.
WHAT THE NEWSPAPER WITS SAY
An Easy Word.
Dundee Advertiser.
This is what happened to a Glasgow
worklngman when he tried to make his
wife's home life happy by reading the
police news to her as contained in his
evening paper. In due course he reached
an interesting trial for assault, the re
port of which concluded as follows:
"This case was held over until tonjor
row," as, the presiding magistrate said he
found considerable difficulty in pro
nouncing sentence."
"Dear me," commented the reader's
wife, "he eanna hae been a man o'
muckle education, surely, or he wadna
hae found any difficulty in pronouncln"
an easy wee word like that"
Satan Terrified.
There Is as great genius displayed In
advertising as In the higher branches of
literature. No problem daunts the mod
ern advertising man.
In the window of a little book store In
Charing Cross Road, London, was re
cently heaped a great pile of Bibles,
marked very low never before were
Bibles offered at such a bargain; and
above them all. In big letters, was the
Inscription: t
. "Satan trembles when ha sees .
Bibles sold at low as these."
A Gentle Husband.
London Answers.
Woman (to her husband, busily engaged
writing) My dear, correctly speaking,
what is a dentist? Husband (crossly)
what only fairyland of keen lmaglna- derived from ent, French for teeth, a
man who pulls teeth. (Husband settles
down to writing again.) Wife My dear
you said this morning that linguist was
derived from the Latin lingua, a tongue.
Husband (crossly) Yes. Wife Well, dear,
is a linguist a man who pulls tongues?
Husband No, madam, but I wish he did.
In Lengthy Terms.
Judge's Library.
In ; the suburbs of one of our great
cities recently a new resident stopped in
front of his neighbor's gate and Inquired
of the boy swinging thereon:
Is your pa home, sonny?
- "No, sir," replied the lad.
up the road apiece.
"Gone afoot?"
"No; about a mile."
"Ha went
For Slow Readers.
Pearson's Weekly.
A restaurant keeper noticed that some
of his customers annexed the current
day's papers for an lirltatingly long time.
He hit on this little piece of sarcasm.
Prominently displayed on the walls was
the announcement:
"Those learning to' read are requested
to use yesterday's newspapers."
Botany to Rescue of Shipwrecked.
New Orloans Times-Democrat
"There is no reason, save Ignorance,
why shipwrecked sailors die In their open
boats of starvation."
The speaker was a botanlsf.
"Let the shipwrecked include a "light
net In their luggage," he said, "and let
them trail the net behind them as they
sail or row over the sea's surface. Every
few hours they can haul in and take from
it a meal or small shellfish or other tiny
sea fruit
"Everywhere the sea's surface teems
with animal and vegetable matter capa
ble of sustaining life."
In an Emergency.
Wllkesbarre Times-Leader.
Stage manager The star is cast for
Beau Brummel, but he's got a three
weeks' growth of beard and the curtain's
about to rise.
Manager Change the bill to "King
Lear."
Two Living Cheaper Than One.
' Kansas City Times.
"You don't believe, then, that two can
live cheaper than one?"
"I do in some cases," replied Titewad.
"Two ordinary women live cheaper than
the one I married."
Knew Girl Nature.
"We were overstocked with ladles' ties,
but our boss was smart enough to work
them oft."
"How did he manage it?"
"Simply enough. Put 'em In the men's
department."
What Father Heard.
Yonkers Statesman.
"I heard you in he parlor last night
with that Mr. HuRgins."
"But. father! We were very quiet"
"Yes; that's what I heard."