The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, July 26, 1908, SECTION FOUR, Image 37

The Sunday Oregonian., July 26, 1908, SECTION FOUR, Page 3, Image 37

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Newspaper Page Text3 THE SUNDAY OKEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JULY 26, 1908. SHEATH GOWN IN MANY STYLES IS NOW ON DISPLAY IN SHOPS OF PORTLAND; MODISTES Camera Reductions Directoire Styles Bid Fair to Become Popular Here, -but Distinctive Feature Has Been Modified. FOR ONE WEEK ONLY 10 PER CENT OFF PRICES QUOTED BELOW I1 fftxMiP 'ff-yyX -Z WW . . - VJ , v 1 ' J x A- W . - " 'y V ' trail of any length one mayRlre. The bottom are features of the directoire & S ' x ' . j, - ' "shell." which is usually of gome such stjles, and bits of lead are sewn in I f i" " I C, 4, vv i ' thin, transparent material as voile. Is each point to preserve the clinging !j -. W1? ;i I ' 2h cut on the same pattern and fits over effect. In this gown there is only an wK "- -.: m y - V 4 this single underskirt very snugly. The overskirt effect instead of two separate SV- " - " . , A s " f y--.'v effect is to emphasize and sharply out- skirts, the mock-oversktrt being edged f r.-f A -r--Sr't. sr f ' , line the figure from hip level to knee. with a band of the velvet running en- , Pi- . 4 ;;; :' - ' But the style of directoire gown that tlrely around $ $ ' M 4 Cf will probably be worn most in Port- Another stylo of directoire suit is Sfc. S ' jf " n -C land has no slash at all, and is a very shown in No. 6. This coat is of black jr7' Pflfa" ;- ? - ""'- a ' 1 1 " Jr much modified version of the "sheath satin, and has square points at the P'.""'! Vv. - " . li s and she11"! this modification, in most front, instead of the "cutaway" lines. i ijs; ;: ; s f.- -'' ' f - v instances, runs to a revival of the old Immense buttons, which are a feature s,:f;.- ' ". N t 3 -L-L ' overskirt effects, the overskirt lines of all the directoire coate, are used. V ' '' t. "l ' ' ' i',.ss-'-,::4IJB" - "" a- - I being emphasized by velvet bands and Front and back views of a modified W'-:' 4 -;f - f :.l ' j" ? I ""If I bindings. directoire tea gown are shown in No. V , ;f V 4 ; v, x, . i: , N . " !s 11 v I The accompanying pictures snow 1 1 and wo. a, this dainty little creation i crs-tff Trw- ' v - 1, f i S xi some of the directoire garments on of lavender wool challie and silk dif- I l!;:;;;? ;;s v v. ' : : .sS SENECA CAMERA No. 1, size 4x5. Regular $9.00. SENECA CAMERA No. 1, size 5x7. Regular $14.00 SENECA CAMERA No. 2, size 4x5. Reg. $11.00. SENECA CAMERA No. 2, size 5x7. Reg. $15.00. SENECA CAMERA No. 3, size 4x5. Reg. 14.00. SENECA CAMERA No. 3, size 5x7. Reg. $18.50. SENECA CAMERA No. 5, size 4x5. Reg. $16.00. SENECA CAMERA Style B, fitted with Seneca Duo double valve (dust proof) shutter and rapid rectilinear lens, size 4x5. Regular $16.50. Size 5x7, regular $22.00. 10 PER CENT OFF ON ALL ORDERS FOR M I R M O N T PAPER AMOUNTING- TO $5.00 OR OVER LARGEST LINE PHOTOGRAPHERS SUPPLIES ON THE COAST SENECA CAMERA No. 9, size 4x5. Regular $35.00. SENECA CAMERA No. 9, size 5x7. Regular $44.00. DEVELOPING OPEN SUNDAYS FROM 10 A.M. TO 2 P. M. OUR ENTIRE LINE OF Trunks at One -Fourth Off w We carry the famous Likly Trunks in values up tr $7S.nn. nnrl fnr n. few ria.vs are sellinc them iT .- A 1 -V I 1 r. 1 at one-iourxn on me regular price, uur una includes wardrobe, Dresser, Hat, Saratoga and Steamer Trunks. Hand-woven Bamboo Suitcases in any size, extra light weight. While they last, each $1.98 sr. THB dircctono gown, cause of a hubbub in which two continents have become embroiled, and latest target for caustic paragraphers the coun try over, has struck Portland. So has the flirectoire coat, the directoire tea gown and a number of other items of the femi nine wardrobe bearing the name which promised so much of the sensational and startling. But, after all, the directoire styles will rause very little agitation when they ap pear on Portland's streets, for they have all been modified, very much modified. Nowhere, the modistes and the exclusive outfitters all tell us, but in Paris could uch an extreme as the original slashed pwn, with the slash extending from hem to hip, and revealing the feminine charms outlined by silken tights, ever have been considered by respectable women, save as a matter, of stage ap parel. Even in the French capital, it Is maintained, the slashed gown worn with tights has never found favor among the women of better taste, their in dorsement having been given to nothing more startling than the style which shows the slash filled with frilled or accordeon-plaited ruffles. And this modification, carried still fur ther, marks the directoire gowns and the "sheath and shell" skirts now on sale In the local shops. The slash, instead of extending from hem to hip. stops short at the knee, and is carefully arranged so that a burst of frills or plaits will fill the opening when the slash parts, as it does in walking. Some of the "sheath and shell" styles shown have the slashes at intervals all the way round the bot tom of the "shell," the openings expos ing a very full ruffle of accordeon plaited silk which extends from the knee down on the tight-fitting "sheath." . In all the discussion which the direc toire gown has caused, the slash has been the main feature, little being said of several other distinctive differences that mark it Is a thing apart from all other gowns. In the first place, the directoire gar ments are all of a corsetless effect and yet extremely clinging and revealing rather than concealing the lines of the 8gure. The upper portion of the di rectoire gowns have the empire lines, with the high waist, corsetless effect. but In the lower portion, from the hip level down, the directoire is very differ ent: this is where . the "sheath and shell" principle is employed, and when one looks upon the tight-fitting. Incurved lines of the underskirt or "sheath," from hip to knee, the term is seen to be no misnomer. At the knee the fullness suddenly appears again, - and at the hAic the material sweeps away In a trail of any length one may desire. The "shell." which is usually of gome such thin, transparent material as voile, is cut on the same pattern and fits over this single underskirt very snugly. The effect is to emphasize and snarpiy out line the figure from hip level to knee. But the style of directoire gown that will probably be worn most in Port land has no slash at all, and is a very much modified version of the "sheath and shell"; this modification, In most Instances, runs to a revival of the old overskirt effects, the overskirt lines being emphasized by velvet bands and bindings. The accompanying pictures Bhow some of the directoire garments on display at a well-known local outfit ters, and a very much modified direc toire tea gown. The slashed "sheath and shell" skirt Is shown In No. 4, the open slash in the "shell" revealing the full accordeon-plaited ruffle of the "sheath" worn underneath. The outer material Is fine voile, with satin bands about the bottom, and the "sheath" Is of taf feta. The coat shown tn this picture is one of the new directoire models. The lines are much like the "cut away" of last Spring, save that the coat is much longer, is slashed at the sides, and fitted tight in to the figure almost the entire length at the back. The trimming is of military braid, and the corsetless effect Is noticeable both in the back and in the front. No. 2 shows one of the exclusive directoire patterns, as modified. This gown is of Copenhagen blue broadcloth, with bands, and other trimmings of velvet in a shade darker. The long points and curved finish of the coat at the bottom are features of the directoire styles, and bits of lead are sewn in each point to preserve the clinging effect. In this gown there is only an overskirt effect Instead of two separate skirts, the mock-oversklrt being edged with a band of the velvet running en tirely around. Another style of directoire suit is shown in No. 6. This coat Is of black satin, and has square points at the front, instead of the "cutaway" lines. Immense buttons, which are a feature of all the directoire coats, are used. Front and back views of a modified directoire tea gown are shown in No. 1 and No. S, this dainty little creation of lavender wool challie and silk dif fering little from the empire style. The high girdle gives the corsetless effect, and the broad band of silk, edged with frilled ribbon, which encircles the neck, is swung round at the girdle level and brought down the side to the hem. In the more extreme directoire tea gowns, the gown is left open at the side, nearly to the waist, revealing the frilled ruffles of an underskirt in a daintily contrasting color; In these styles, too, the back seam of the gown is narrowed In below the hip-lines, to fit the figure more closely. Instead of maintaining the loose, flowing empire lines. Those who adopt the "sheath and shell" style will require some practice at walking before venturing forth on the street in the tight-fitting skirt The breadth is so scant at the knee and the materials used of such delicate texture, that one vigorous swing, such as the healthy woman employs in ordi nary walking, would rend the gown apart and probably trip the wearer and leave her In humiliation, among its ruins. Short, rapid steps, which take the form of a serpentine glide, are heralded as the proper method of loco motion In the "sheath and shell," and the "Dolly Varden" walk is being cul tivated by those who are contemplat ing the adoption of these garments. AMERICAN WOMAN'S ENCOUNTER WITH FRENCH OCTROI GUARDS AND PARIS HAIRDRESSER Emilie Frances Bauer Writes Entertainingly from Gay French Capital Paris Shopkeepers All Try to Speak English. PARIS, jury 11. (special correspond ence.) For the benefit of travelers who take to Paris in Summer, let me say It Is as hot as the hottest days In New York, which to the vivid imagination of the Westerner is but a few degrees short of the hottest re gions recorded in history or in the Bible. There Is no difference apparent on the streets, however, as they are crowded. Yet, Jet us examine this motley crowd; indeed it Is not even necessary to examine closely, as far and near It looks like Broadway, and It feels like well, it is hot. The Americans own Paris at this season, anil woe to anyone who thinks he will get an Idea of France and Its people. It is unfair to judge at this time mo neonle who have built this wonderful clty but have these people built it? rnnlil these neoole build it? Are they not. like thl- superb master piece of a city, the evolution of a won derful past, with a future which Is even to themselves a question-mark? How ever, it is too hot to philosophize, and a sketchy outline of people and things is no doubt of keener interest. At this season, the Frenchman likes to show how much English he knows, and be' almost resents the fact that an American speaks French well. Address him in French, never mind how fluent ly, and he will stammer and struggle and stutter an English answer. I stood it as long as'I could and then, in good, solid French, I said: "See here: never mind how little I know of the French. I speak a hundred thousand times bet ter French than you speak English; and you just forget that sign on the door and get down to business In French or I get out. Vous voyez?" He got down, and seemed, satisfied that at least he had tried to do his duty by the employer who put Into the window the sign, "English Spoken Here," which more often than not means by the cus tomers. , There are a few things that people never learn except by their own ex perience. Among these is the fact that sometimes you can't pass the guards at the Custom-House without trouble. A recognized teetotaller, It was rather trying to: be held up for a bottle of whisky sent to the steamer for medi cinal purposes. I was marched between two guards, both of whom looked and felt as important as If they had dis covered a nihilist with enough dyna mite to blow up the city. It doesn't feel good to walk between two guards, even for. a miute, and while I felt like a fool on the one hand, i,t was a sort of guillotine sensation that I experi enced, and It took me two days to get over the "mad." I afterward discovered that this was not the Custom-House officer, but. the guard of the octroi, and he is legion around Paris, and makes himself offi cious even when passengers on the cars and omnibuses carry packages. An explanation of this is that no liquids or foods are allowed through the gates from any of the outlying districts, where things are cheaper than in Parts. It was most astonishing to learn that perfumes of the French manufacturers are sold at a substantially lower figure in America than in France, since they have to pay .duty on the alcohol, which comes from America There is also a mistaken Idea about the wine-drinking of Parjs, and it is generally supposed that the water is so bad that wine is used In self-defense. This is altogether wrong, as the water is pure and delicious, and is to be found on every table, while wine stands on the sideboard, as frequently as not untouched. If, however, anyone exists who be lieves that he. she or it can go to the hairdresser's and come away without spending about three times what is first asked, let him get over the lm pression, as it cannot be done. I will Just quote my own experience: . . (Translated from the real thing) "How much for a shampoo, no waving, and put up the hair again 7" "Three francs, madame; Henry, take this lady "Not so fast, please. I want to know whether that Is all or whether thererare extras; If so, I want to know what they are. "No, no, madame upstairs sil vous plait" I was handed over to an unctlous-Iook ing French hairdresser with a bushy head they all have bushy heads now know why. The beard serves as a rest ing place for the comb when it is not working. For a little while a very little while, all went well; then Mr. Oily discovered the very sharp tendency on the part of his customer to turn gray, and sug' gested: "The gray hairs give Madame a great deal of age. Will she not have them touched up?" "Non, mercl. "Madame would look very much younger." "Thanks; Madame is not in the kinder garten, and wants everybody to know it. The gentleman looked as though he had suddenly found himself in an insane asy lum, and for three minutes the silence Bath Gabinets FOR HOUSE USE Beneficial in cases of rheumatism, constipation, catarrh, blood troubles, kidney troubles, etc. ; pro motes circulation, opens the pores of the skin and tones up the system. CABINETS, COMPLETE $4.00 TO $12.50 A BIG SALE OF GUT GLASS ALL THIS MONTH FOURTH FLOOR Artistic Picture Eraming ALSO FREE PHONES W00DARD, CLARKE 8 CO. FOURTH AND WASHINGTON could have been cut with a knife, but the gray hairs did not set easily upon his conscience finally he broke out: Gray hair would be very becoming to Madame; would she not have a front piece to match the hair at the sides?" "Thanks; I prefer my own. "But it would be very beautiful." "I prefer my own. thank you." T?v this time he discovered the need of the tonic: now I had been waiting for this tonic business ever since I made up my mind that I needed the shampoo, so I was good and ready and Just warded the first sally with: Non, merci. It would make Madame's hair very beautiful." - . Well, this Madame is going away so soon that one time could not make her a reigning Parisian belle." "No. but It could make her a very beautiful American woman, and besides Madame could take a bottle with her It is only six francs and it is Just what her hair needs and " ' 'No. thanks, I had all I wanted with your octroi guard, - and do not care to carry liquids into Germany,- Austria, liaiy and Switzerland." Then I received some long and useless information concerning how I could do it. and how I could not do It, etc. Finally he was seized with a stroke of genius. 'Madame ought to have the tonic, be cause it would keep the hair from flying after it has been washed." And Madame weakened. What woman would not weaken in the memory of hair flying soft and fluffy until one looks like the wild man of Borneo, so Madame be gan to temporize. "Will It really keep the nair irom ny- lng?" Billy question imagine his saying no. but I was determined to get at the extras. So. after. learning that it would be another franc, and having visions of a neat-looking coiffure.- I gave the ratal order. Oh. if anything that lives and has being could have the qualities of that wonderful tonic according to Henri. But finally that got stale and he Degan sueeestlne again this time: "How do you pronounce in English the word, 'waving1?" I threw in an English lesson, after which in the language itself he turned on me with: .. "Madame would look vairy beeautifool wlz ze waving hair. Is zat correct?" "The language Is correct not the ap nlicatlon." But he did' not weaken a bit, and we argued that for at least ten minutes. Score another one for me. Then came the headdress and "Where are Madame's side combs?" Now. if there Is one thing of which "Madame" is not guilty, it is the side comb habit, and it was somewhat of a Joy to Henri to hear the remark. "I never wear them it was a new point 01 departure. "But Madame must follow the style" Madame was now rather desperate, and said with all the confidence of a Cleo de Merode, "I never follow styles, I lead them." By this time both he and I were possessed with the same idea, i. e., how to get out of the door with the least pos sible show of fear I felt the jgame was uo. and I had no more strength to fight. and he well, to him I did not look like a female Ward McAllister, and he was closed In the room with an idee fixe, It was not pleasant. There was a si lence. This was timidly broken by the remark: "The side combs would keep Madame's hat on straight and securely. Walt minute. I will go into the next room and get some. Just to show Madame." Also to open the door should there be any show of violence. -Now, if there is one disease on earth from which I suffer and have suffered. It is a wobbly hat. I had tried everything for It except vaccination and side combs. Here I was, with relief in sight he got the combs. I got the hat. He adjusted the combs wonderful to tell, the hat was solid a new sensation for - me. also for him when I asked. "Combien?" "Three francs and a half " Well, it was robbery, but I wanted to get-out, and lo. the back comb which I had always worn did not match the side combs In the least, but no murmur from "Henri," whose worst fears were realized when I asked for the back comb. In a hoarse whisper he said: "Three francs, please" and almost ex pired when I exclaimed: "Pique give me the bill." "Ten. francs-fifty" And I started out to spend three. EMILIE FRANCES BAUER. Portland Railway, Light & Power Company BULLETIN NO. 9 Suburban Train Service The development of the suburban and interurban territory near a large city is largely dependent upon transportation. Tha highest development of the transportation problem is found in the 'modern high-speed electric train. Even the steam railroads admit this as witness the electrification of the New York, New Haven & Hartford, New York Central, Southern Pacific, Oakland, Califor nia, and many other suburban steam lines. The same has been true of the lines running out of Portland to Oregon City, Cazadero, Gresham, St. John, Vancouver, Mount Scott, Montavilla, Fulton and other nearby points. Running time of trains between Portland and Oregon City has been reduced from 80 to 60 minutes. This and similar service can easily be maintained with the co-operation of passengers; for in stance, the time lost in stops can be greatly reduced if passengers are ready to leave or board the train promptly. In many cases railroads are adopting the plan of limiting the time of stops, and passengers not ready are carried to the next stop; or the number of stops is cut down, making the train an express or limited. This x last method is objectionable where most stops are of equal import ance, and is only used as a last resort. That safe and reliable service may be maintained, a block signal system has been installed on the Oregon City line. This in sures safety to passengers, and is in accordance with modern rail way practice. 'New and heavier rails and a steel bridge over the Clackamas River have also been put in; other improvements are contemplated soon. A new boat for the Vancouver ferry service will be in operation in a few months. These matters indicate the consideration given to this suburb - an service and the efforts constantly made to improve it. The value of suburban property and residence is greatly in creased by frequent, regular and rapid train service. The market gardener, dairyman, poultry and stock-raiser are also well served by the new "Package Freight" service recently inaugurated, by which such products are brought in on passenger schedule and placed in the hands of dealers in a few hours after preparation for the market, instead of from one to three days, as by ordinary freight. . The absence of dust, smoke, cinders, ability to quickly add cars to trains for rush or special travel, are all a part and feature of the Suburban Electric Service.