3
THE SUNDAY OKEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JULY 26, 1908.
SHEATH GOWN IN MANY STYLES IS NOW ON
DISPLAY IN SHOPS OF PORTLAND; MODISTES
Camera Reductions
Directoire Styles Bid Fair to Become Popular Here, -but Distinctive Feature Has Been Modified.
FOR ONE WEEK ONLY
10 PER CENT OFF PRICES QUOTED BELOW
I1 fftxMiP 'ff-yyX -Z WW
. . - VJ , v 1 ' J x A- W . -
" 'y V ' trail of any length one mayRlre. The bottom are features of the directoire &
S ' x ' . j, - ' "shell." which is usually of gome such stjles, and bits of lead are sewn in I f i" " I
C, 4, vv i ' thin, transparent material as voile. Is each point to preserve the clinging !j -. W1? ;i
I ' 2h cut on the same pattern and fits over effect. In this gown there is only an wK "- -.: m
y - V 4 this single underskirt very snugly. The overskirt effect instead of two separate SV- " - "
. , A s " f y--.'v effect is to emphasize and sharply out- skirts, the mock-oversktrt being edged f r.-f A -r--Sr't. sr
f ' , line the figure from hip level to knee. with a band of the velvet running en- ,
Pi- . 4 ;;; :' - ' But the style of directoire gown that tlrely around $ $
' M 4 Cf will probably be worn most in Port- Another stylo of directoire suit is Sfc. S
' jf " n -C land has no slash at all, and is a very shown in No. 6. This coat is of black jr7' Pflfa" ;- ? - ""'-
a ' 1 1 " Jr much modified version of the "sheath satin, and has square points at the P'.""'! Vv. - "
. li s and she11"! this modification, in most front, instead of the "cutaway" lines. i ijs; ;: ; s f.-
-'' ' f - v instances, runs to a revival of the old Immense buttons, which are a feature s,:f;.-
' ". N t 3 -L-L ' overskirt effects, the overskirt lines of all the directoire coate, are used. V ' '' t. "l ' ' ' i',.ss-'-,::4IJB"
- "" a- - I being emphasized by velvet bands and Front and back views of a modified W'-:' 4 -;f - f :.l ' j"
? I ""If I bindings. directoire tea gown are shown in No. V , ;f V 4 ; v, x, . i:
, N . " !s 11 v I The accompanying pictures snow 1 1 and wo. a, this dainty little creation i crs-tff Trw- ' v - 1,
f i S xi some of the directoire garments on of lavender wool challie and silk dif- I l!;:;;;? ;;s
v v. ' : : .sS
SENECA CAMERA No. 1, size 4x5. Regular $9.00.
SENECA CAMERA No. 1, size 5x7. Regular $14.00
SENECA CAMERA No. 2, size 4x5. Reg. $11.00.
SENECA CAMERA No. 2, size 5x7. Reg. $15.00.
SENECA CAMERA No. 3, size 4x5. Reg. 14.00.
SENECA CAMERA No. 3, size 5x7. Reg. $18.50.
SENECA CAMERA No. 5, size 4x5. Reg. $16.00.
SENECA CAMERA Style B, fitted
with Seneca Duo double valve (dust
proof) shutter and rapid rectilinear
lens, size 4x5. Regular $16.50. Size
5x7, regular $22.00.
10 PER CENT OFF ON ALL ORDERS FOR M I R M O N T
PAPER AMOUNTING- TO $5.00 OR OVER
LARGEST LINE PHOTOGRAPHERS SUPPLIES ON THE COAST
SENECA CAMERA No. 9, size 4x5.
Regular $35.00.
SENECA CAMERA No. 9, size 5x7.
Regular $44.00.
DEVELOPING
OPEN SUNDAYS FROM 10 A.M. TO 2 P. M.
OUR ENTIRE LINE OF
Trunks at One -Fourth Off
w We carry the famous Likly Trunks in values up
tr $7S.nn. nnrl fnr n. few ria.vs are sellinc them
iT .- A 1 -V I 1 r. 1
at one-iourxn on me regular price, uur una
includes wardrobe, Dresser, Hat, Saratoga and
Steamer Trunks.
Hand-woven Bamboo Suitcases in any size,
extra light weight. While they last, each $1.98
sr.
THB dircctono gown, cause of a
hubbub in which two continents
have become embroiled, and latest
target for caustic paragraphers the coun
try over, has struck Portland. So has the
flirectoire coat, the directoire tea gown
and a number of other items of the femi
nine wardrobe bearing the name which
promised so much of the sensational and
startling.
But, after all, the directoire styles will
rause very little agitation when they ap
pear on Portland's streets, for they have
all been modified, very much modified.
Nowhere, the modistes and the exclusive
outfitters all tell us, but in Paris could
uch an extreme as the original slashed
pwn, with the slash extending from hem
to hip, and revealing the feminine
charms outlined by silken tights, ever
have been considered by respectable
women, save as a matter, of stage ap
parel. Even in the French capital, it
Is maintained, the slashed gown worn
with tights has never found favor among
the women of better taste, their in
dorsement having been given to nothing
more startling than the style which
shows the slash filled with frilled or
accordeon-plaited ruffles.
And this modification, carried still fur
ther, marks the directoire gowns and the
"sheath and shell" skirts now on sale
In the local shops. The slash, instead of
extending from hem to hip. stops short
at the knee, and is carefully arranged
so that a burst of frills or plaits will fill
the opening when the slash parts, as it
does in walking. Some of the "sheath
and shell" styles shown have the slashes
at intervals all the way round the bot
tom of the "shell," the openings expos
ing a very full ruffle of accordeon
plaited silk which extends from the knee
down on the tight-fitting "sheath."
. In all the discussion which the direc
toire gown has caused, the slash has
been the main feature, little being said
of several other distinctive differences
that mark it Is a thing apart from all
other gowns.
In the first place, the directoire gar
ments are all of a corsetless effect and
yet extremely clinging and revealing
rather than concealing the lines of the
8gure. The upper portion of the di
rectoire gowns have the empire lines,
with the high waist, corsetless effect.
but In the lower portion, from the hip
level down, the directoire is very differ
ent: this is where . the "sheath and
shell" principle is employed, and when
one looks upon the tight-fitting. Incurved
lines of the underskirt or "sheath," from
hip to knee, the term is seen to be no
misnomer. At the knee the fullness
suddenly appears again, - and at the
hAic the material sweeps away In a
trail of any length one may desire. The
"shell." which is usually of gome such
thin, transparent material as voile, is
cut on the same pattern and fits over
this single underskirt very snugly. The
effect is to emphasize and snarpiy out
line the figure from hip level to knee.
But the style of directoire gown that
will probably be worn most in Port
land has no slash at all, and is a very
much modified version of the "sheath
and shell"; this modification, In most
Instances, runs to a revival of the old
overskirt effects, the overskirt lines
being emphasized by velvet bands and
bindings.
The accompanying pictures Bhow
some of the directoire garments on
display at a well-known local outfit
ters, and a very much modified direc
toire tea gown.
The slashed "sheath and shell" skirt
Is shown In No. 4, the open slash in
the "shell" revealing the full accordeon-plaited
ruffle of the "sheath"
worn underneath. The outer material
Is fine voile, with satin bands about
the bottom, and the "sheath" Is of taf
feta. The coat shown tn this picture
is one of the new directoire models.
The lines are much like the "cut
away" of last Spring, save that the
coat is much longer, is slashed at the
sides, and fitted tight in to the figure
almost the entire length at the back.
The trimming is of military braid, and
the corsetless effect Is noticeable both
in the back and in the front. No. 2
shows one of the exclusive directoire
patterns, as modified. This gown is of
Copenhagen blue broadcloth, with
bands, and other trimmings of velvet
in a shade darker. The long points
and curved finish of the coat at the
bottom are features of the directoire
styles, and bits of lead are sewn in
each point to preserve the clinging
effect. In this gown there is only an
overskirt effect Instead of two separate
skirts, the mock-oversklrt being edged
with a band of the velvet running en
tirely around.
Another style of directoire suit is
shown in No. 6. This coat Is of black
satin, and has square points at the
front, instead of the "cutaway" lines.
Immense buttons, which are a feature
of all the directoire coats, are used.
Front and back views of a modified
directoire tea gown are shown in No.
1 and No. S, this dainty little creation
of lavender wool challie and silk dif
fering little from the empire style. The
high girdle gives the corsetless effect,
and the broad band of silk, edged with
frilled ribbon, which encircles the
neck, is swung round at the girdle
level and brought down the side to the
hem. In the more extreme directoire
tea gowns, the gown is left open at
the side, nearly to the waist, revealing
the frilled ruffles of an underskirt in
a daintily contrasting color; In these
styles, too, the back seam of the gown
is narrowed In below the hip-lines, to
fit the figure more closely. Instead of
maintaining the loose, flowing empire
lines.
Those who adopt the "sheath and
shell" style will require some practice
at walking before venturing forth on
the street in the tight-fitting skirt
The breadth is so scant at the knee
and the materials used of such delicate
texture, that one vigorous swing, such
as the healthy woman employs in ordi
nary walking, would rend the gown
apart and probably trip the wearer and
leave her In humiliation, among its
ruins. Short, rapid steps, which take
the form of a serpentine glide, are
heralded as the proper method of loco
motion In the "sheath and shell," and
the "Dolly Varden" walk is being cul
tivated by those who are contemplat
ing the adoption of these garments.
AMERICAN WOMAN'S ENCOUNTER WITH FRENCH
OCTROI GUARDS AND PARIS HAIRDRESSER
Emilie Frances Bauer Writes Entertainingly from Gay French Capital Paris Shopkeepers All Try to Speak
English.
PARIS, jury 11. (special correspond
ence.) For the benefit of travelers
who take to Paris in Summer,
let me say It Is as hot as the hottest
days In New York, which to the vivid
imagination of the Westerner is but a
few degrees short of the hottest re
gions recorded in history or in the
Bible. There Is no difference apparent
on the streets, however, as they are
crowded. Yet, Jet us examine this
motley crowd; indeed it Is not even
necessary to examine closely, as far
and near It looks like Broadway,
and It feels like well, it is hot. The
Americans own Paris at this season,
anil woe to anyone who thinks he will
get an Idea of France and Its people.
It is unfair to judge at this time mo
neonle who have built this wonderful
clty but have these people built it?
rnnlil these neoole build it?
Are they not. like thl- superb master
piece of a city, the evolution of a won
derful past, with a future which Is even
to themselves a question-mark? How
ever, it is too hot to philosophize, and
a sketchy outline of people and things
is no doubt of keener interest.
At this season, the Frenchman likes
to show how much English he knows,
and be' almost resents the fact that an
American speaks French well. Address
him in French, never mind how fluent
ly, and he will stammer and struggle
and stutter an English answer. I stood
it as long as'I could and then, in good,
solid French, I said: "See here: never
mind how little I know of the French.
I speak a hundred thousand times bet
ter French than you speak English;
and you just forget that sign on the
door and get down to business In
French or I get out. Vous voyez?" He
got down, and seemed, satisfied that at
least he had tried to do his duty by
the employer who put Into the window
the sign, "English Spoken Here," which
more often than not means by the cus
tomers. ,
There are a few things that people
never learn except by their own ex
perience. Among these is the fact that
sometimes you can't pass the guards at
the Custom-House without trouble. A
recognized teetotaller, It was rather
trying to: be held up for a bottle of
whisky sent to the steamer for medi
cinal purposes. I was marched between
two guards, both of whom looked and
felt as important as If they had dis
covered a nihilist with enough dyna
mite to blow up the city. It doesn't
feel good to walk between two guards,
even for. a miute, and while I felt like
a fool on the one hand, i,t was a sort
of guillotine sensation that I experi
enced, and It took me two days to get
over the "mad."
I afterward discovered that this was
not the Custom-House officer, but. the
guard of the octroi, and he is legion
around Paris, and makes himself offi
cious even when passengers on the cars
and omnibuses carry packages. An
explanation of this is that no liquids
or foods are allowed through the gates
from any of the outlying districts,
where things are cheaper than in Parts.
It was most astonishing to learn that
perfumes of the French manufacturers
are sold at a substantially lower figure
in America than in France, since they
have to pay .duty on the alcohol, which
comes from America
There is also a mistaken Idea about
the wine-drinking of Parjs, and it is
generally supposed that the water is
so bad that wine is used In self-defense.
This is altogether wrong, as the water
is pure and delicious, and is to be
found on every table, while wine stands
on the sideboard, as frequently as not
untouched.
If, however, anyone exists who be
lieves that he. she or it can go to the
hairdresser's and come away without
spending about three times what is
first asked, let him get over the lm
pression, as it cannot be done. I will
Just quote my own experience: .
.
(Translated from the real thing)
"How much for a shampoo, no waving,
and put up the hair again 7"
"Three francs, madame; Henry, take
this lady
"Not so fast, please. I want to know
whether that Is all or whether thererare
extras; If so, I want to know what they
are.
"No, no, madame upstairs sil vous
plait"
I was handed over to an unctlous-Iook
ing French hairdresser with a bushy
head they all have bushy heads now
know why. The beard serves as a rest
ing place for the comb when it is not
working.
For a little while a very little while,
all went well; then Mr. Oily discovered
the very sharp tendency on the part of
his customer to turn gray, and sug'
gested:
"The gray hairs give Madame a great
deal of age. Will she not have them
touched up?"
"Non, mercl.
"Madame would look very much
younger."
"Thanks; Madame is not in the kinder
garten, and wants everybody to know it.
The gentleman looked as though he had
suddenly found himself in an insane asy
lum, and for three minutes the silence
Bath Gabinets
FOR HOUSE USE
Beneficial in cases of
rheumatism, constipation,
catarrh, blood troubles,
kidney troubles, etc. ; pro
motes circulation, opens
the pores of the skin and
tones up the system.
CABINETS, COMPLETE
$4.00 TO $12.50
A BIG SALE OF
GUT GLASS
ALL THIS MONTH
FOURTH FLOOR
Artistic Picture Eraming
ALSO FREE PHONES
W00DARD, CLARKE 8 CO.
FOURTH AND
WASHINGTON
could have been cut with a knife, but
the gray hairs did not set easily upon his
conscience finally he broke out:
Gray hair would be very becoming to
Madame; would she not have a front
piece to match the hair at the sides?"
"Thanks; I prefer my own.
"But it would be very beautiful."
"I prefer my own. thank you."
T?v this time he discovered the need of
the tonic: now I had been waiting for this
tonic business ever since I made up my
mind that I needed the shampoo, so I
was good and ready and Just warded the
first sally with:
Non, merci.
It would make Madame's hair very
beautiful." - .
Well, this Madame is going away so
soon that one time could not make her a
reigning Parisian belle."
"No. but It could make her a very
beautiful American woman, and besides
Madame could take a bottle with her It
is only six francs and it is Just what her
hair needs and " '
'No. thanks, I had all I wanted with
your octroi guard, - and do not care to
carry liquids into Germany,- Austria, liaiy
and Switzerland."
Then I received some long and useless
information concerning how I could do
it. and how I could not do It, etc. Finally
he was seized with a stroke of genius.
'Madame ought to have the tonic, be
cause it would keep the hair from flying
after it has been washed."
And Madame weakened. What woman
would not weaken in the memory of hair
flying soft and fluffy until one looks like
the wild man of Borneo, so Madame be
gan to temporize.
"Will It really keep the nair irom ny-
lng?"
Billy question imagine his saying no.
but I was determined to get at the
extras. So. after. learning that it would
be another franc, and having visions of a
neat-looking coiffure.- I gave the ratal
order. Oh. if anything that lives and has
being could have the qualities of that
wonderful tonic according to Henri.
But finally that got stale and he Degan
sueeestlne again this time:
"How do you pronounce in English the
word, 'waving1?" I threw in an English
lesson, after which in the language itself
he turned on me with: ..
"Madame would look vairy beeautifool
wlz ze waving hair. Is zat correct?"
"The language Is correct not the ap
nlicatlon."
But he did' not weaken a bit, and we
argued that for at least ten minutes.
Score another one for me. Then came the
headdress and
"Where are Madame's side combs?"
Now. if there Is one thing of which
"Madame" is not guilty, it is the side
comb habit, and it was somewhat of a
Joy to Henri to hear the remark. "I never
wear them it was a new point 01 departure.
"But Madame must follow the style"
Madame was now rather desperate, and
said with all the confidence of a Cleo de
Merode, "I never follow styles, I lead
them." By this time both he and I were
possessed with the same idea, i. e., how
to get out of the door with the least pos
sible show of fear I felt the jgame was
uo. and I had no more strength to fight.
and he well, to him I did not look like a
female Ward McAllister, and he was
closed In the room with an idee fixe,
It was not pleasant. There was a si
lence. This was timidly broken by the
remark:
"The side combs would keep Madame's
hat on straight and securely. Walt
minute. I will go into the next room and
get some. Just to show Madame." Also to
open the door should there be any show
of violence.
-Now, if there is one disease on earth
from which I suffer and have suffered. It
is a wobbly hat. I had tried everything
for It except vaccination and side combs.
Here I was, with relief in sight he got
the combs. I got the hat. He adjusted
the combs wonderful to tell, the hat was
solid a new sensation for - me. also for
him when I asked. "Combien?"
"Three francs and a half "
Well, it was robbery, but I wanted to
get-out, and lo. the back comb which I
had always worn did not match the side
combs In the least, but no murmur from
"Henri," whose worst fears were realized
when I asked for the back comb. In a
hoarse whisper he said:
"Three francs, please" and almost ex
pired when I exclaimed:
"Pique give me the bill."
"Ten. francs-fifty"
And I started out to spend three.
EMILIE FRANCES BAUER.
Portland Railway, Light &
Power Company
BULLETIN NO. 9
Suburban Train
Service
The development of the suburban and interurban territory
near a large city is largely dependent upon transportation. Tha
highest development of the transportation problem is found in the
'modern high-speed electric train. Even the steam railroads admit
this as witness the electrification of the New York, New Haven &
Hartford, New York Central, Southern Pacific, Oakland, Califor
nia, and many other suburban steam lines.
The same has been true of the lines running out of Portland
to Oregon City, Cazadero, Gresham, St. John, Vancouver, Mount
Scott, Montavilla, Fulton and other nearby points.
Running time of trains between Portland and Oregon City has
been reduced from 80 to 60 minutes. This and similar service can
easily be maintained with the co-operation of passengers; for in
stance, the time lost in stops can be greatly reduced if passengers
are ready to leave or board the train promptly. In many cases
railroads are adopting the plan of limiting the time of stops, and
passengers not ready are carried to the next stop; or the number
of stops is cut down, making the train an express or limited. This x
last method is objectionable where most stops are of equal import
ance, and is only used as a last resort.
That safe and reliable service may be maintained, a block
signal system has been installed on the Oregon City line. This in
sures safety to passengers, and is in accordance with modern rail
way practice. 'New and heavier rails and a steel bridge over the
Clackamas River have also been put in; other improvements are
contemplated soon. A new boat for the Vancouver ferry service
will be in operation in a few months.
These matters indicate the consideration given to this suburb
- an service and the efforts constantly made to improve it.
The value of suburban property and residence is greatly in
creased by frequent, regular and rapid train service. The market
gardener, dairyman, poultry and stock-raiser are also well served by
the new "Package Freight" service recently inaugurated, by
which such products are brought in on passenger schedule and
placed in the hands of dealers in a few hours after preparation
for the market, instead of from one to three days, as by ordinary
freight. .
The absence of dust, smoke, cinders, ability to quickly add
cars to trains for rush or special travel, are all a part and feature
of the Suburban Electric Service.