Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 19, 1908)
7 Newest Fancies in Hand-Made Lingerie THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN". PORTLAXD. JULY 19. 1903. aBasssssssaaaasassssssssssi aaassssaaai aaassssssBaasa sssssssssssssasasaaaap -V aaaaaaasssssai MM wsssssssssssssnsaaaaaii aaBaeaaaaaaaeassassssi sasaanaBassssssssssssssa asasisaaai aaasssssss sassssssssp.Ssaaa.asaa. NEGLIGEE IN EMBROIDERED FLOUN CINGt Good Form on TO the conservative grandmother of today, whose girlhood was carefully guarded, the laxity displayed by young people during vacation days is nothing short of appalling. Her up-to-date granddaughter who has earned her right to carry a latch key along with her salary as teacher, stenographer, confiden tial clerk or salesgirl, tells grandma that this Is a progressive age and. grandma is very apt to reply with some warmth that It is a scandalous age. "Grandma's' forebodings are not with out some reason. Of late years, the Sum mer girl has rather stretched the ropes of conventionality. She makes vacation, or even Summer days In town the ex ruse for doing those- things which in the Winter time she leaves undone, for accepting attentions from men. of a na ture which she would refuse to accept in midwinter. She is very apt to adopt a 1 few open-work manners along with her peek-a-boo waist, and so today I want to talk frankly with young girls, espec ially independent, self-supporting girls, about the favors, hospitalities and cour tesies which they may feel free to accept trnra that interesting personage, the Sum mer man. In the Winter, when a young man takes rnu to the theater, and suggests supper after the play, you are most particular as to the restaurant named and equally par ticular about reaching home before mid night. But in the Summer, when the same man suggests an automobile trip, you stop unquestioningly at any road house suggested and the hour of your arrival at your own door seems to be a matter of supreme Indifference. - The glamor of the automobile seems to dazzle yon to the demands of Madam Grundy. If a man asks you to go automoblling. you have a perfect right to ask the des tination selected, and if the trip is to be a long one, to make inquiries as to your chaperon. The chauffeur usurps the post of chaperon only on a day trip. If a party of young people, say four or six, plan an automobile trip of several days, a married woman must be included in the parly. If one man acts as host to the party, he foots all bills. If the men club together for the Jaunt, then expenses. In cluding those of the chaperon, are divided among them. In case of a breakdown which threat ens to be serious, the girl who has gone alone with a man nd his chauffeur, ex pecting only a short spin, will allow no stone to be left unturned to insure her return to the parental roof by night. If the man cannot repair his car, then he must care for the girl, sending to the nearest town for a livery rig and seeing her orr board a train for town. He is then free to return and look-after his car. No carelessness in this case is ex cusable. It is a progressive aire, indeed, and oven farm houses have telephones to. day. If the breakdown occurs at a point where it is practically impossible to re turn to town, that is at a resort reached only by motor or boat and the last boat mis cone, then, if possible, recall some friend of the family who may reside at the resort and place yourself under her protection over night. If all else falls ind this emergency Is -rare), you must Aire to your family of your whereabouts, go to one hotel while your host goes to another and register a vow never again to motor without a chaperon. Many an unhappy marriage has resulted rrom Just such an Indiscretion as this. The girl who goes unchaperoned to spend Saturday afternoon or Sunday at a nearby resort, must be equally careful about train or boat service. It Is much safer to spend a few hot moments in the crowded depot or pier than to try to ex plain later on how you happened to miss the last tram or boat. You may accept from a man an invita tion to attend a big ball game or sailing rai-e. or sporting event of any sort in anoiher town, provided it is possible for you to make the round trip In one day. If it Is necessary to remain over night in order to witness the race or gam then you must either have a chaperon in yoi'r party or remain with family friends while in the other city. It is absolutely ir ossible for a man to send you to a hotel and foot your bills, even though he remains at arother hostelry. It seexna as if such a word of caution were unneces sary, yet the news columns of the daily papers tell how girls make such grave errors and end In the divorce court. If a man you know well is stopping In a distant city through which you are to pass on your vacation trip and suggeats that he will be glad to do the honors of the town, this does not mean that you will be his guest. If you stop off rpecial ly to give him the chance to entertain you, then you must have a, chaperon. If ynu are obliged to remain for 12 or 24 bours, you so direct to Ujc. hoisi you haye Vacation Jaunts selected, register for yourself, pay your own bill and accept, from the man only incidental courtesies, such as visits to the local parks, amusement centers, museums. etc, never falling to return to your hotel at a reasonable hour. In any hotel of good repute a girl of quiet manners may remain indefinitely, but one who returns at all hours of the night is not considered a desirable guest and more than likely she is asked to leave. A man who owns a yacht or sailing boat, however small, will never ask tirl whom he respects to make a trip 'ith him unless a. chaperon is provided. This applies to the small motor boats as well as big yachts. Sometimes if the party is quite large and going out Just for Saturday afternoon or Sunday, the girls feel that they can chaperon each other, but if the sail is to cover even one night a married woman must be Invited to accompany them. PRUDENCE STANDISH, Lingerie Pillows. The dainty lady just now. is turning her thoughts toward the pretty lingerie pillows which do so much to make her bedroom and boudoir just what they should be. They are quite small, soft down pll lows covered with a white material nainsook, cambric or handkerchief linen. Sometimes they are embroidered with white mercerized cotton in graceful design of small flowers and sometimes they are quite plain, with only a two-inch hemstitched ruffle all round the edge. Others are Inset with fino Valenciennes lace insertion, while the rutfles are finished with a lace edging. Quite the easiest way to make these dainty novelties is to buy an embroid ered handkerchief, which may be made larger, if necessary, by sewing inser tion round the edge. This is backed by plain handkerchief linen, and the whole is finished with a hemstitched ruffle of the same material. The pillows themselves may first be covered with a slip of Bateen to match the color adopted by milady, usually either blue or pink, which shows through the sheer linen cover and ac centuates the trimming or embroidery. Women who do not like ruffles fin ish the pillows around the edge with a single band of valenciennes insertion. New Collar. A tailor-made collar, which threat ens to become immensely modish as an accessory of tailored suits, is com posed of two kinds of linen. The high stock, curved beneath the chin, pointed under the ears -and dipping slightly at the back is of heavy white linen. Fastened to its ends, after the manner of the well-known crush combination tie and collar, are colored striped linen scarfs. which are brought forward and loop-knotted in the front. The same idea may be followed in all white, using the heavy linen for the stock and handkerchief material for the scarfs. For warm weather the thinner fabric will prove far more com fortable. New Girdles. There are many different arrange ments of girdles on the new gowns of the season. We often see a girdle of an entirely different color from the gown, such as old gold, satin or blue, pink or ecru. A soft dove gray la much liked because it gives the girdle a distinction all its own. A charming effect is found in using wide pompa dour ribbon of pink roses on a black ground. A shaped piece cut from the black can be fitted on thefront of the side seams and from here can be gathered the full width of the ribbon with the ends drawn upward to the back, where they may be knotted and let fall In -sash ends. Mourning Wrap. A useful mourning wrap for Summer may be developed of dull - finished crepe de chine bordered with ribbon or of filet net, with bands of conventional crepe. It is cape shaped, reaching to the wearer's waist line at -the back, to her elbows at the sides and tapers into points below the hips in front. The band trimmings are quite broad and applied flatly at the neck and around the edges of the garment. They also provide the weight necessary to keep the cape in its original shape. This is a good model for an elderly woman's porch wrap and may quite easily .be home made of lightweight cashmere, voile or silk, finished with bordering material ..or jrlt triune. - THE girl who loves dainty things, who considers personal dainti ness of primary importance, finds the question of up-to-date lingerie a serious problem. The lavish use of mercerized fabrics for underwear and the unscrupulous use of strong soaps and powerful washing powders by laun dresses combine to play havoc with even a liberal dress allowance. The day of light-weight muslins, cambric and long cloth for lingerie is about spent, and yet in the face of Fashion's sternest decree, I earnestly advise the girl of limited means to employ a fine grade of long cloth for the bulk of her home-made underwear, combining with it a good grade of Hamburg embroid ery or torchon lace. Nothing can compare with this com bination for hard wear and regular laundering, and a high-priced piece of long cloth will launder as softly and wear much better than some of the sheer, mercerized fabrics. Cheap lacea are the worst possible investment, especially point de Paris. Stick to German val, torchon and Just now If you are so fortunate as to know the Irish stitch, an edging and insertion of hand-made Irish crochet. Generally speaking, the tendency of up-to-date lingerie is toward extreme Bheerness of material, simplicity in de sign and exquisite care in fitting. The princess and 'draped skirts both re quire perfectly fitted underwear, and the woman of well-developed figure as well as her heavy-weight sister, is go ing in for tights, and carefully avoid ing frills of any sort. The woman who wears old-style lingerie selects well cut designs, such as combination suits, which Include drawers and corset cov ers, or corset covers and short, skirta, princess slips, etc One of the distinct fads with women of well-lined purses is the soft satin skirt, which has completely supplanted the taffeta skirts. And really this is not so expensive as it sounds. A good grade of messallne can be bought, at sales for 49 cents a yard. For evening wear a princess slip of white messaline will do duty for several frocks, white batiste, or one of delicate tint, a black and white or even a black voile, mar quisette or similar weave. The woman of middle age who wears much black, grey, lavender, etc., will take great comfort and find good use for a drop skirt of silvery-grey messallne. These satin skirts are fitted perfectly over the hips and finished with a set on flounce of the same material. This can be ornamented with hand-run tucks and embroidered In self tone or harmonious tints with dots or rings. Lace is combined with the white and delicately tinted skirts, but the black and Bubdued colorings show embroid ery or feather stitching rather than lace. China silk is also in great demand for drop skirts or petticoats and in the 36-inch width cuts to excellent advan tage. For a dressy skirt, net, lace and ribbon are combined for trimming. Another remarkable feature of the season in lingerie is .the quantity of colored materials used. Prominent among these are what is known as the mV& X3eZ1fr4B&9W$l.,m II I 1,1 WJl - I In1 l ll Vlt U 1 I SfllSV lrl'fltt&n ys- I it1 mi mj i i. ft B'irvrsffi 11 will I I I I Am&SXWr 1 1 III II I HI II fllBBft'CS ' M M I l - THE ONE ' Dolly Varden sets, made from daintily figured lawns and batistes, trimmed with Val lace and set off by matching ribbons. They are the privilege of the girl who is brave enough to do her own laundry or who at least will watch the family laundress, and prevent the fading of her dainty lingerie through the use of strong soaps or drying in the sun. A lovely set of this sort was recently completed for a Fall bride. The pat tern chosen was a quaint moss-rose of diminutive size on a cross-bar lawn. The material was very soft and there fore admitted of much tucking and flouncing. The corset cover was semi fitting, with a shawl bertha of lace Insertion edged with lace of a match ing pattern. The ruffles of the draw ers were made from alternate strips of the tucked lawn and insertion, split up on the side and edged all the way round with lace. Bows of pale pink wash ribbon fastened the bertha to the corset cover and finished the flouncing on the drawers. The nightgown waa what is known as the chemise pat tern, slipping over the head and fin ished with a bertha to match that on the corset cover. Another color fancy Is that of the new fine hamburg or nainsook em broidery done partly In white and partly In a delicate blue, pink or lav ender. Sometimes the scallop and flower within are of the color on a white ground. Sometimes the ground Is delicately tinted with white em broidery. Cross-bar dimity is much used for underwear, and combined with this you will find embroidered medallions and German Val lace. Of course when linen, embroidered by hand, is within the reach of one's purse, the altogether desirable Is in sight, but very few girls have time to embroider their under wear, and in this case lovely machine embroidered medallions can be found and set off by lace. One thing every girl should learn to do and that Is work the eyelet holes through which wash ribbon Is run. This Is a much less bulky mode of finishing under wear than to Insert It with machine made beading. In choosing machine-made embroid eries for underwear, stick to simple patterns. A busy girl showed me a set of underwear which almost de celvad the casual observer into the be lief that it was hand-embroidered. She chose plain batiste for the fabric ran all her tucks by hand and used as trimming a fine batiste banding done simply in polka dots, and set off by narrow German Val edging. Night gown, chemise, drawers and skirt were all cut on what might be called square lines. The necks were square, the flounces all were split and finished with square ends. Straps of the em broidered banding ran up the outside seams of the sleeves and above the ruffles on the drawers, which, by the way. were finished with the banding. not with a frill of the lace. The effect was simple and elegant. Kimonos are rightly Included In the art of making hand-wrought lingerie. and one of the prettiest designs shown this season has body and sleeves cut in one piece with hand-run tucks on the shoulder and banding for a finish all way round kimono and sleeves. Fig. A shows a square-necked neg ligee developed from a handy remnant of 'embroidered flouncing, delicate lav ender on white. The neck is cut square u us i i nil. in isjcj 1 fl fl l In 1 1 II and finished with galloon to maten the flouncing. Fig. B shows what Is known as the one-piece nightgown, the sleeves and body being cut in one. Here is a pat tern which would develop admirably if the dotted banding described above were employed as trimming, outlining the kimono sleeves, and run in strips between the tucking. In Fig. 6 is shown the semi-fitted corset cover with a bertha which can be hand-embroidered or made from strips of tucking and insertion alter nately. The one-piece circular drawers shown In Fig. D are notable principally he cause they serve the purpose also of a short petticoat. MART DEAN. July Preserves THE practical house mother who has been preserving fruit for her mother did when she was a child will perhaps welcome some up-to-date methods of preparing goodies for the Winter months. Currant Jellyi This is a safe and at the same time simple recipe for the most popular of all jellies. Strain the Juice of raw currants through cheese cloth bags, and to every cup of the clear juice you must have one cup of granulated sugar, heated in the oven. Do not allow it to melt. Boil the clear Juice for about five minutes, then add the sugar and stir until thoroughly dis solved. Just before it comes to a boil remove from fire and pour into Jelly glasses. Ginger Fcant Take eight pounds of hard green pears, eight pounds of sugar, half pound of green ginger root, the Juice of four large lemons. Cut the outside skin off the lemons in very small pieces, but be sure to cut away the white part, leaving only the yel low outside skin. Peel and cut the pears in very thin slices. Put the gin ger root to soak in a pint of lukewarm water over night, drain off the water, strain and save to put with the sugar. Scrape and cut the ginger in thin slices. Put all the ingredients to gether, and cook nearly an hour or until the syrup is thick. Watermelon Rind Preserves: Buy a large, luscious melon and cut the red heart out and serve for dessert. Care fully save the white rind and peel it, and cut in rather long thick pieces about the size and thickness of a small encumber pickle. Take the Juice and the rind of two large lemons (rind cut In small pieces). Cook the latter and a piece of white ginger until tender. Take the weight of-the melon fruit in sugar and enough water to dissolve it. When the syrup- has cooked until it ropes, add the lemon Juice, rind and fruit. Then cook all together until Quince Honey" Make a thick syrup of three pounds of granulated sugar and one pint of hot water. Let It boil and add to the syrnp three large quinces which have been grated. Boil all together for 20 minutes, then add a tiny bit of powdered alum about the size. of a green pea. Canned Elderberries! One peck of firm, ripe elderberries, and one pint of strong vinegar, three pounds oi brown sugar, and one quart of molas ses. Boll all together for five or ten minutes and bottle. The elderberries should be measured after picking from che stems. Rrandlrd Peam Four pounds or pears with their weight in sugar and one pint of the best brandy. Cook the pears tender in clear water, lift out gently on to plates. To the sugar add enough of the water In which the pears were cooked to dissolve, let it boll ana skim. Now add the pears very care fully, and simmer gently until clear. Place the pears in jars, add the brandy to the syrup, fill up the jars and seal Summer Bargains THE newest turn-over collars or the Peter Pan or Buster Brown variety for young girls are from four to five inches deep. The newest hand-bags or purses are balloon-shaped and come In all colors of glace and suede leather. The newest parasols are of cretonne with plain wood handles delicately tinted to match the predominating color in the cretonne. The newest hat-pins for tailored or ready-to-wear hats are of Imitation amber or yellowish onyx, spike-shaped and looking for all the world like an elongated pear. For an all-black dressy hat, the one correct pin is long, narrow, oblong set in rhinestones. The newest sash is or DiacK cnuion mads with a chou or rosette bow and very long sweeping ends. It is fastened either in the back or on tne leit siae in the front. In either case it has no belt. The newest sailor hat has a flat. round crown with a drooping, down turned brim, and looks like an Inverted wash-pan. The newest bracelet Is of heavy an tlaue filigree, gold or silver, very broad where the setting appears. The latter Is of jade. Cleaning Kitchen Utensils. New Tork Times. It is the custom of many housewives to use sand soap for scouring and clesning almost anything in tin or agate .ware in their kitchen. This Is a great mistake, as sand soap is injurious to some kinds of kitchen ware. A bottle of ammonia and a bottle of kerosene are very useful for cleaning some of the utensils which will not stand such a strenuous rub bing. Fdr instance, if you will put a few drops of ammonia In your frying plan it will work wonders. You can also put it in the coffee pot occasion ally when you are scalding it. Galvanized iron and agate ware should be wiped with kerosene, as the sand soap will in time wear away the enamel. If.Vou burn your agate ware pan put a teaspoonful of borax or washing soda in the pan with hot water and boil for 15 minutes. The Xewest Ruffs. Some very remarkable neck ruffs are shown where the frilllngs are very full and of silk tulle, in white, black or khaki. They are made also' in the exact tone of the gown, forming a sort of collarette for the costume. Some of these ruffs have a draping of soft taffeta in front to form a cravat, and they are tied in the back with a big bow of ribbon to match the tulle. Then there Is a neck ruff of ostrich which Is quite different from its rela tion of other years. At present it has no ends whatever and simply encircles the throat, fastened in the front with a cluster of artificial flowers. CORSET COVER WITH BERTHA FOR SLENDER FIGURE. Right Way to "I VE Just shampooed my hair and I can't do a thing with it.". The expression is so common that it has become a stock joke in vaudeville. Shampooing generally makes the hair rebellious and not without reason, for nine women out of ten do not treat their hair with either intelligence or ordinary kindness. "My, my," cries the reader, "don't I wash my hair every two weeks and tiassage it every night?" Perhaps, but how and with what? There lies the rub. I have known women who washed their hair once a week and their brushes and combs once a month. When you wash your hair, wash your brush. Otherwise it forms a resting place for dust and eerms. I have known other women, thrifty souls whose brag it is that they never waste, a minute, to wash their hair just before retiring and allow it to hang over the side of the bed and dry at night. That is a sura way to make the hair heavy and sour. I have known other women," who blind ly followed the advice of neighbors or friends, to fade the hair or break it by using some strong alkali in the shampoo mixture. Fit the shampoo mixture to the needs of your own hair, not your neighbor's hair, and never shampoo at all unless you have time to do it properly. With the woman of dry, brittle hair, shampooing is indeed a delicate process. She must exercise the most exquisite cara or pay a heavy price for her indiscretion. Ammonia, washing soda, bor.'ix or patent ed shampoos of whose ingre.iients she is ignorant, may crack her hair and destroy what little life exists in the roots. Again, the woman with dry hair often thinks she is safer if she does not sham poo at all, because the process of wash ing, rinsing and drying is trying on the hair, so she .uses what is known as the antiseptic shampoo plainly speaking, a gasoline bath. In this she is wrong. Ilcr scalp needs the cleansing which only soap and water will supply, and It must be given at least once a month: To begin with, do not shampoo the hail until you have time to perform the rile properly. A hasty shampoo is not only untidy but It Is dangerous. Select a One-Plece Circular clear, sunshiny day. Have at hand plen ty of old. soft towels, and if possible the means of warming them. Start by wash ing your brushes and comb. Soft, soapy water, not hot. Just tepid, with perhaps a dash of ammonia or borax will be need ed Tor this. Do not allow the brushes to soak long. Rub them together briskly in about two or three waters containing soap, then rinse in clear water of the same temperature until it runs off clear turn, bristles down, to dry where the air will pass through them. Do not set wooden-backed brushes In the sunlight. The backs will warp. Now. if your hair Is dry, use only the egg shampoo mixture, as follows Mix one raw egg with a pint of luke warm rainwater and one ounce of rosemary spirits. Wrhen thoroughly beaten and mixed, rub this into the scalp, a good way being to have some one pour it. slowly from a small-lipped pitcher while you rub It thoroughly into the scalp, as if you wanted to reach the very roots. Then rinse the hair In many clear waters, all luke warm. Pat, but do not rub the hair with warmed towels. Do not rub the scalp with a rough bath towel. When work lng on the scalp itself use the softest toweling at your command and rub it very lightly. As soon as the bulk of the moisture has been absorbed by the towels, seat yourself in the sun and, gently shaking the hair loose from the Drawers. . Shampoo Hair scalp for the air to pass through, dry -it by ventilation and the sun's warmth. Just before it is perfectly dry begin to brush and comb it, working from the ends of the hair up to the scalp In disentangling It. Never comb from the scalp outward and jerk the comb through intervening snarls. When entirely dry, and not until then, give it a final brushing with bril liantine. Drop the brilliantine, a few drops at a time, into the palm of your hand and rub the clean brush In this. Then apply brush to hair. This pre vents the rough look which dry hair always has after shampooing. A good grade of brilliantine can be purchased for 50 cents at any drugstore or toilet wares counter, but you can also make It yourself If you have a taste for mixing toilet lotions. The following formula Is reliable: Castor oil, 4 fluid drachms: sweet almond oil, 3V4 fluid ounces; glycerine, 8 fluid drachms; Jockey Club ex tract, 3 fluid drachms; alcohol, enough to mflkA 8 ounces. At night shake the hair loosely and massage the scalp, dipping your finger tipa into the least bit of pure olive oil. Very dry hair Indicates lack of fatty deposits in the hair cells. An opposite treatment Is needed when shampooing oily hair. Here you can use a little alkali, such as borax. Make a strong suds of pure olive oil soap or standard white soap which does not "bite" the tongue when you taste It. To a basin of water add a pinch of borax and finely shaped, soap uhtll you have a thick lather. Never rub the soap directly on the scalp. Ap ply this shampoo mixture either with a ' sponge or by having It poured onto the head while you rub It In with your linger tips. Rinse and dry as de scribed above, but do not finish off with the brilliantine application. Sim ply brush it until it shines. Oily hair sometimes amounts to an affliction, the hair turning heavy and dark at the roots 24 hours after sham pooing. In this case, try the follow-. tng lotion as a cleanser ana rinse thoroughly before drying. Bicarbonate of soda, 14 ounce; borax, 14 ounce; cologne water, i ounces; rectified spirits, 1 ounce; tinct ure of cochineal, V, ounce; distilled water, IS ounces. Mix and shake thor oughly. This mixture should not be used often er than once a week. If, between Snampoos, you WISH lo vieniiBa ui uir, try this dry shampoo: Powdered orris root, pound; ber- gamot rind, 24 drachms; cassia flow ers, 2 drachms; cloves (coarsely ground) Vz drachm. Mix these ingredients and pass through a sieve twice. Powder the hair at night with it, and massage for 10 minutes. In the morning massage for five minutes, and shake the hair and brush all the powder out. KATHERINB MORTON. HfAr1flnr KTieeta. Why mark sheets with Ink in a hap hazard way? It is so easy to find a nice initial in newspapers or magazines which may be transferred to sheets with carbon paper and then traced with Indelible Ink. Without the slightest cost and with little trouble a good and uniform marking may thus be procured, and. If preferred, the letters thus marked may even be embroidered. In this day when engraved headings are the rule, not the exception, letters for the whole name may be found, too. The new vertical handwriting has done so entirely away with the copper-plate Spencerlan hand of long ago, almost no one now writes a hand or can make letters which deserve to be perpetuated on household linen In either Ink or fins stitches. Camping. Mv white walled casrtle Marda asTeam, Reflected in the limpid stream. And I, seated In solitude. Am kins of river and of wood. My klnedom la the world afar. The trees ani bills my aubjecta are. My boat with which to cross the aeaa Lies ldljr awaylng 'neath the trees; It I the only battleship I need on such a lonely trip. My rod, my only tool of war, Stands close besida my castle door. Up up between the trees of green A aplral streak of smoke Is seen; It is my campflre burning- low And fadlna In the afterglow. All eounda of strife have died awayi And quiet crowns tha close of day. My white walled castle fa my own, 1 rule supreme upon the throne. I'm guarded by each tow'rtng tree, I own the waters under me. I drtnk of earth and sea and aky What worldly kins so rich aa I? Joe Con in tha New Tork Boa.
