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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 28, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OK EG ONI AX, PORTLAND. JUNE 38, 1908. SiKT lFc Tfv 'IP Some Timely Suggestions for Vacation Attire IT Mff iUi' rill mi i i te m y .alii! K aV' A ; FIG. D BATHJNG SUIT IN BLUE Etiquette of the a N this country the Summer lawn party H is c'airs.'d v.'iih the informal enter . tnmcnls. and hence a friendly little note in the accepted form of invitation. However, many women use their visit ing c.rds with the iate ami hour on the l"ft-l-and corner, ami the words "Lawn l':;rty" written arross'ho top-of the eard. Tnv ita tinns to lawn parties should be -answered either-by acceptance or regrets as soon as a decision ean be reaehed. On the day of the party the lawns should bo mowed very short, the flower beds trimmed ami eieaned from ali dead leaves, and the entire tirst floor of the house thrown open windows and doors. Tables with chairs should be scattered over the lawn, and if possible two or three ru:-rs should be plaeed about on the lawn under some chairs l:i order that elderly people may have protection from tiie t'.amp ground. It is generally well worth while, to hire a few dozen camp ehairs from the town caterer if you expe-t a large crowd, as it saves much work in carrying large ones from the house. One largo table is covered with an inunacuhile white tablecloth, and from this is served the rt freshments. Kruit should be served in great abundance, and at this season of the year -when strawberries are plentiful there should be a heaping dish of them on the table. A lar.se bowl of punch or some mixed fruit drink should be on the center of the table, and the menu should consist of salads, sa ndwiches. ice cream, ber ries and cakes.' In addition to this there should be numerous dishes of candies, olives, stuffed and plain, salted nuts, etc.. which should be passed to the BiKFts by lr.emhcis of the receiving itaff. The hostess of a lawn party should be prepared for a gloomy and showery :lay. If the weather is bail, she cannot recall her invitations, so the inside uf tier house should be ready for this emergency. Let me say here that the isual hours for a lawn party are from ;i until 7. It is never wise to extend them late into the evening. Women guests should be dressed in their daintiest of Summer raiment t lowered nrgamr.es, white lingerie iowns; pale colored silks. Large flow ered bats should be worn and parasols .hould be carried if possible. Men come in very informal costume. While flan nels witli negligee shiits are very proper, or white flannel trousers, and blue serge -coat. They should wear, straw hats, but no gloves. Women generally arrive with their gloves on and take them off dm ins the early al'tcrnoon. There ure no restrictions as to the time for staying at a lawn fete. As Fpaee is not to be considered as at a formal tea, many guests spend the entire afternoon strolling over the grounds and chatting with first one .roup of acquaintances and then an other. As many of the guests arrive In carriages, some driving themselvVs, a bai n man should be stationed at the b!ok to take. the horses from guests, sending -the vehicle to the barn or shed un.til Its owner calls for It again. The hostess at such an afternoon rntertalument should be dressed In her best -afternoon costume without hat before her guests are due to arrive. Sle should be assisted during the af ternoon by girl friends, also dressed in their very best afternoon gowns. The hostcsrt must be in a conspicuous place where all of. her arriving guests ean easily find her. She must see that any tiUanser Is introduced to her assist SERGE WITH PANEL SKIRT. Lawn Party ants, and they in turn to introduce the newcomer to as many of tile guests as possible, louring the entire after noon she must cast fleeting glances over her assembled guests seeing that no girl is strolling about alone, and getting congenial people together in friendly little circles. If she finds that some young man is being bored to death by a circle of women who are talking "clothes," she should rescue him and lead him away to a bevy of more agreeable young people. If the garden or lawn party is to be a large affair, such as an afternoon tea would be in the Winter, music should be played during the entire afternoon. Stringed Instruments are prefeiable, such as mandolin, guitars and banjos. For an Informal affair, music is not necessary. In departing, guests must seek their hostess and bid her good-bye, with some ' compli mentary remark about having had a good time. etc. Guests who have attended a lawn party should call upon their hostess within a week or two. Summer calls are yery informal, but they are none the less necessary, and If a man or woman has spent a jolly afternoon at the expense of a charming hostess, the least they can do Is to pay the prescribed "party ca!V PRUDENCE STAXDISH. PINS FOR ALL PURPOSES In place of the proverbial stitch which saves nine, the up-to-date woman seems to be utilizing pins. So many and so varied are their shape, size and pur pose that it is nothing short of bewilder ing to gaze at the exhibition of the pin counter in the smart shops. Undoubtedly the horseshoe model is still very popular, and perhaps the Idea of Its bringing luck has much to do with this. We find the horseshoe set in brilliants, in all the colored stones and in imitation pearls, or pearls and tur quoise combined. It is a most useful pin, as it can be used for the back of the belt, to fasten the back of the veil, to keep the collar together In front or the tie down at the back of the neck. Among the smartest of the novelty pins are long narrow ones in the shape of a flying bird. The wings are made of polished shell or a clever Imitation of mother-of-pearl. The head of the bird is highly colored with tintlna or enamel. These pins are very showy and you "get a lot for your money," as they are most inexpensive. Some of them have a brace of birds and others a row of tiny birds on a plain bar. They are very new and very effective. The Brazilian beetle has returned and we see it set In most fantastic designs. Three of these little green bugs are set to form a clover leaf, again you see three of them set in the center of a gold horseshoe. They are very effective when worn on light gowns, as the col oring of the bug shows up better than on dark material. They are easily crushed and should be adjusted with great care. Among the sets of three tiny pins for the back of the collar are the peacock feather pins. These are not quite an inch In length, but the coloring Is very vivid and they are extremely effective on the neck of lingerie blouses. They cost about J-ri for the set of three. Many women shun them, however, for the reason that peacock feathers are supposed to be an omtn of had luck. iiARY DEAN. THE sucess or failure of the vacation trip is frequently measured by the raiment of the fair vacationist. This may read like rank calumny to the sex, which presumably has outgrown such narrow things as dependence upon clothes for happiness, but the fact re mains that the woman who lacks the correct clothes to make a 'successful appearance on her vacation seldom ex tracts real pleasure from her outing. But mark, please, that I use the phrase "correct clothing," not an extravagant wardrobe, nor an inordinately large supply. A few things, well chosen and strictly up-to-date mean more to the vacationist than trunks filled with all sorts of flimsy frocks refurbished from last season's finery, or Innumerable gowns flung together without much regard for the time, the place or the figure of the girl who is to wear them. Fashion is a decided autocrat this season as to traveling attire, and the girl who looks trim, and up-to-date when she arrives at her destination has half won the battle of popularity at the hotel. First and foremost your traveling suit this season must be tailored, a matching coat and skirt, with a blouse or shirtwaist which at least suggests the coloringof the two-piece suit. If you Intend to employ the skirt of your traveling suit for walking expedi tions and general wear with shirt waists, then by all means cling to the pleated skirt and leave the circular cut for house dresses only. The circular skirt, especially, if made by a home dressmaker to clear the ground by several Inches, is very apt to sag at the seams, while there Is no excuse for this, and little chance. In the straight, pleated skirt. A slim girl, under I'O or a trifle past that age,,if she retains her girlish appearance, can wear the new skirt which clears the ground by four inches, but no matronly woman, no girl, whatever her age of opulent curves, should attempt this. Extreme slenderness alone looks well in the short skirt. And with this must bo worn the smartest of ties and plain lisle hosiery. The cutaway coat certainly leads all comers for traveling, and even with the straight front jacket, there Is pretty sure to be a slight clipping off of the corners. These coats all show the long sleeve and very simple trimming, gen erally braid. The fabrics employed are very light weight French suitings, mo hair, panama, rough and smooth silks and linen. Very stunning are the tailored suits of finely striped mohair, Panama or linen, such as brown and cream, black and white, blue and white, trimmed with braid of the darker color. For the slender figure the broad braid Is used, binding the entire coat, and the pocket lapels and laid in three rows on the skiit. with buttons covered also with the braid.. For the' stout woman better results are secured by running Woman and E was an assertive gentleman, slightly past middle age; and his voice had the carrying quality that belongs by right to the stump speaker. Consequently, his words were distinctly audible throughout the car. The little lady with him was mild-mannered and qulet-auilced, shrinking a bit farther into her seat as he thundered out, "Ridiculous extravagance! Two dollars for having your hand read! It's all stuff and nonsense. Women are as supersti tious as heathens." With a growl he subsided Into his paper, while the victim of his outburst, a trifle "teary 'round the lashes,' repented her rash confidence. But her observant next door neighbor, sympathetic though she was, could not help feeling that there was much truth in the old gentleman's vio lent tirade. For she herself had just come from Ho boken, where she had gone to see a good friend sail. A half hour before the time for raising the gangplank not a piece of baggage had appeared, and each succeed ing moment until the trunks showed up 20 minutes later, had seemed like an eter nity. And during that Interval the only compliment or expression of opinion ut tered by the owner of the baggage had been: "Well, I should have known better than to start anywhere on Friday. I'll never do It again, I can assure you." There was no word of annoyance with the delinquent express company. The day was Friday, and that was enough to ac count for " everything that might go Wrong. With the tyrannical old gentleman and the departing European friend in mind, the observer could admit that, in her ex perience, she had found women frankly superstitious, not ashamed of their weak ness, nor engaged In- combatting its influ ence, but pampering It, and admitting it as a factor in existence. The nature of the superstition ranged from the more ignorant credulity of her primitive-minded friends and their faith in signs, such as the breaking of a mirror or the itching of the hand, to a really intelligent inter est on the part of others to certain psy chic phenomena, says the New- York Evening Post. Years before, when she was a litle girl, all her study of Salem and the witchcraft trials, in connection with early' colonial history, had been made vivid and fascin atingly real by the visit of an old servant to her mother. Annie was then the wife of a thrifty farmer, and had come into town to "tend store" in the market during her husband's Jury service. In the course of her call she told of her husband's prosperity, but la mented the recent loss of some valuable cows, hazarding the opinion that they had been bewitched. "For, indeed, ma'am, they all died in the same way, by a small cricki just near the place where an old .witch woman lives. She has the evil eye. and if she doesn't quit my man and some neighbor men are going to see to her." . Just what that dire threat meant the small auditor had never learned, but It brought home the fact that there were still those who believed firmly in witch craft. Have you ever stopped to count the various ways in which money may be spent in foretelling the future, or, if one hesitates at that name, in having one's character analyzed? And having collect ed a partial list at best, for new devices are constantly appearing, lest the old lose their attractions, have you realized how many times a year and for what reasons some of your seemingly most sensible friends consult the people who trade on this feminine foible? It is interesting to discover that nearly ever woman's introduction to such mat ters dates back to her girlhood, when some old family servant amused her by reading her fortune in the settlings In her teacup. In one case it, was a- col ored butler. Daddy Jlm.a venerable sur vivor of antebellum days and manners. "Little missy got a good fo'tune in her cup this ma-wuin'. Want old. Jim to read 111 Fig. C Long Coat or "Duster" for for a Girl Under Her Teens. the finer soutache braid in vertical lines on the coat and front panel of the skirt. The Eton jacket, so popular for the rtast few seasons, is little seen this year, and if worn for traveling at all, it is quite plain. When linen suits have fancy lapels, cuffs or vest effects, these are done in flowered cretonne or In black and white striped galatea cloth. 31aek and white serge suits trimmed with wide black braid are popular for young g.rls, and older girls are wearing much plain linen and pon gee finished severely with stitching. The new traveling hat is quite small by comparison with those shown earlier in the season, but a young girl is justified in wearing a few flowers on her traveling hat, which she covers with a veil, plain chiffon being best form for traveling, and brown leading as a color. The shirt waist may match the suit In soft surah, messaline or pongee silk, or. If a wash waist is desired, a striped or figured material is chosen, with the stripe or figure matching the suit. With a brown suit, a pongee Her Pet Superstitions it?" And then there came a thrilling session, in which coming letters, good marks in school, gifts and all sorts of delightful things were foretold. Then a friend learned how to read hands, and there was much puzzling over life line's and little criss-cross patterns on small palms that meant most, im portant events and fingers that bespoke the artistic temperament. But the summit above all things supre natuial in girlhood came when a more daring schoolmate persuaded one to visit a "really, truly" fortune-teller, who charged 50 cents for a sitting. How much planning that visit did require, and with what palpitating hearts two young sin ners sped down back alleys and slipped around remote corners of streets until, safely seated in the untidy parlor, they watched a drowsy, unattractive woman thumb a dirty pack of cards, and listened breathlessly to ungrammatical maunder lngs about a "light-haired fellef" and a dark rival, and discovered. In their fu ture, diamond solitaires and some trag edy. That was a visit to be dreamed of for days and discussed in whispers with certain chosen confidantes at recess time. There are many who. opposed to the more vulgar forms of fortune-telling, be lieve most firmly in palmistry, the read ing of character in handwriting and sim ilar forms of divination, if they may be so named There Is one woman who, for many years, has made a comfortable liv ing by reading specimens of handwrit ing. A quotation signed by the one sending it and 50 cents brings In reply a page or two of finely written analysis of the inquirer's character. Read for the first time, this is satis factory. for it keeps safely to generali ties. The writer is artistic, emotional. Each woman is convinced that she is. She is fond of nature, inclined to be critical, has moods, and so on. Nothing Fig. B Leather-Toned Pongee and Polka Dot Trimming for Girl In Her Teens. blouse In natural tone Is worn, or with a dark blue suit, a blue and white madras .with a tie or jabot bound all the way round with navy blue will be seen. Some of the newest shirt waists are in white, trimmed with striped ma terial, applied in the form of bias bands. The tailored blouse with standing I collar and tie is preferred to the typi cal lingerie blouse for traveling, wnue with the silk blouse a woman wears either an embroidered collar and tie or has several dickies or chemisettes which she can renew during the jour ney, If it is- a long one. A well-gowned woman this season does not wear the elbow sleeves in coat or blou?e when traveling. In fact, word comes from Paris that, save on the evening gown, dinner frock, or waist for home wear, no elbow sleeves are seen. The long sleeves Is worn whenever a woman steps across her own threshold. Some very good designs are shown today for the fair vacationist. Three traveling suits are offered, for three ages in the family party. For the eld est daughter, well out of her teens. Is shown a tailored effect In striped goods which can also be developed In iinen. The skirt is cut with four gores whose stripes meet In the front. The jacket is semi-fitting and can be buttoned straight down the front or cut across the- corners to give a cut- j mwny eircct. inc. trimming is a Droao. nraio witn Duttons maae irom tne braid. In Figure B is shown a jaunty suit for a girl In her teens, done in leather colored pongee with trimming of a deeper shade and cream-colored dots. The skirt is the plain pieated effect so becoming to a girl just emerging from the awkward age. , A most useful traveling coat for the littlest girl of the family is shown in Figure C. It ean be developed in three quarter or full length and in cloth or silk. It should be finished In very sim ple fashion, with stitching, bias bands or flat braid. Never load a chilli's traveling coat with embroid ery or lace. And if the weather prom ises to be very warm 'and the trip is not too long, use. linen instead of cloth. These little linen coats or dusters are invaluable for the youthful traveler. The last' illustration shows the lat est design In a bathing suit, which every vacationist, bound for seaside or lake resort, should have. There Is nothing more plebeian than to hire a public bathing suit, and a well-fitted, modest suit liko the one shown in The illustration is most desirable. The waist and knickerbockers are In one, and the skirt with its pretty panel ef fect is attached with many buttons. The sleeves may be cut kimono fash ion or fastened into a band just above the elbow. Blue brilliantine, trimmed with polka dot foulard, was employed for the design and a polka dot bathing cap was added. Incidentally, the bath ing caps are extremely gay this season, many bandanas being noted among them. MARY DEAN. appears that the unbelieving reader Is not convinced might be said of every woman with an excellent chance of her believing.it. If the victim is more curi ous and more willing ' to invest her money. $1 will procure a more detailed analysis, and some predictions as to the future, and certain facts concerning the past. That character reading from handwrit ing has a firm hold on some persons is beat illustarted by the story of the court ship of a New York girl now resident in Europe. She had developed a distinct talent for reading handwriting, and both amused her friends. Who took the mat ter less seriously than she liked, and added to a slender Income by exhibiting the skill. She had' attracted a clientele of well-to-do women, who consulted her constantly about new acquaintances, ac cepting much of her decisions, based on her reading of handwriting. Occasion ally she had been consulted in affairs of tiie heart, but that her talent was to play a part in her own romance she did not dream. She was a guest at dinner one evening, and, arriving late, failed to meet any save her immediate neighbors. Some dis tance down the table sat a strange young man, whose face and manner she liked. At the close of the dinner the hostess asked the handwriting expert to amuse the guests by reading their characters. She agreed willingly. Slips of paper and pencils were provided, and each guest wrote a line or two and passed It, un signed, to the reader. As she went through the pile one slip challenged her attention. The handwriting was that of a man, and at once she said to herself that he was possessed of exactly the character she should choose If she were selecting a husband. Of this particular slip her reading was a eulogy so complimentary to the original that the moment of Its identification with that of the attractive guest she had noticed earlier was somewhat embarrass ing. But the sequal? A prompt introduc tion, and another international marriage that so far promises well. Feminine investigators of the occult have recently learned that each human being, whether he likes it or not. Is the owner of a very important adjunct called the atira. Two women bound for the suburbs were engaged in an animated discourse on the subject the other day. "But, my dear." said one. "I have the loveliest aura, all purple and gold, melting into lovely soft violet shades. I went to her the other day, after Mrs. Brown had been, and I've been so comforted. Some how I had grown tired of Mine. Blank and her horoscope. But this Is fascinat- J ing. You see to have a purple and gold uuia liieuus wmi J uu uvvcti uu u Ulgliei plane of thought, that you are open to all fine influences, and that you have risen above the physical. "Is it expensive? Well, she charges $2, but the visit is worth it. The only Vhing I didn't like was not having any pink in my aura. That means love for humanity. But I told her that a suburbanite couldn't have much pink after being made angry by so many people in ferryboats and trains." The listener wondered whether it were possible to arrange an aura to suit changes of costume. There might b3 times when even so superlatively beau tiful an aura as one of purple and gold might jar or spoil the color scheme. Then he composed himself to listen to a (sor rowful tale of one enthusiast who had cried a whole day over a dingy brown and gray aura without a single touch of color anywhere in sight. "That Is what I like about her." said the chronicler. "She Is so frank. She puts you in a strong light, stands oppo site, half closes her eyes and then she goes into that frame of mind In which the aura is visible. Oh, do go, my dear." It is easy for each woman to be amused by her neighbor's weakness, but search long enough and her own pet superstition comes to light. It may be 13 at table, or the unlucky Friday, or "Saturday flits, a short sit," or a cure for warts, but it is there. Is there -a bride whq has ever defied fate by failing to wear on the day of all days Something old and FomethiFK new.' Something borrowed and something blue? FIG. A FOUR-GORED SKIRT AND JACKET IN STRIPED FRENOH CLOTH WITH BRAID TRIMMING. oome Mid-S ummer Dainties IT is far easier to make a dainty ap pearance In cold weatner than in hot, and many a girl who is most attractive in crisp Autumn days looks frumpy and blowsy when dog-days roll round- The first cure for this condition is to assume a coolness one does not feci, and this Is best accomplished by sim plicity in dress and coiffure. Over dressing in Summer is a fruitful source of downright unattracli veness and un desirable comment. An elaborate coif fure built from hair that is matted by perspiration and heavy with Summer dust is far less charming than the simplest of coiffures with each strand of hair burnished to metallic brightness by the deft use of brush. A face, sadly tanned or even blistered by Summer sun and wind, looks even worse if it rises above a rock of raspberry linen, over-trimmed with heavy laces. A sim ple, un trimmed gown in a more neutral tone would make the abused complexion less conspicuous. It Is not good form this year to ap pear blowsy. The Summer girl guards her complexion well and for this pur pose there is nothing better than chif fon or silk veilings of brown or geran ium pink. Only the girl of pronounced outdoor tastes, the athletic faddist, now appears bareheaded. The average Sum mer girl clings to veils and long gloves. The girl whose hair Is dry and who desires to look trim and neat will take comfort in the use of a good brilliant ine. A few drops of this should be taken on the palm of the hand. Then into this the brush is rubbed thorough ly, after which the hair is brushed vig orously until It shines. In this way very little oil Is applied to the hair, yet It keeps place when dressed and has the desired sheen. Imported brilliantine generally c.'sts about 75 cents the small bottle, but the girl who will take time and buy good ingredients can secure excellent results by making up this formula: Castor oil. 4 fluid drams; sweet al mond oil. 3'4 fluid ounces; glycerine, 3hi fluid drams; Jockey Club extract, 3 fluid drams; alcohol enough to make S ounces. Violet or any preferred extract can be substituted for the jockey club. The girl with oily hair must be es pecially painstaking about keeping it clean in hot weather. It should be shampooed at least once a week, and right here I want to say a word against the inordinate us of ammonia, borax and washing soda for shampooing. To a basin of warm water soda or borax the size of a pea is sufficient, and a dozen drops of toilet, not household ammonia. To this should be added enough, finely shaved white soai) to make a thick lather. Many girls use a teaspoon of borax to a bowl of water, thinking they can thus prevent a future accumulation of oil in the scalp. The remedy Is futile. The oil will come back, oozing from the pores, and borax soda or ammonia is useful only to "cut" the oil if the water is hard, not to effecc a cure. A raw egg beaten lightly with a pint of tepid water and a good white soap will clean the scalp, and do the hair less harm than the excessive use of the above mentioned remedies. The girl who bathes at seaside or in land resort, should be very careful about freeing her hair from ocean or river water. Rinse it thoroughly If you get it wet during your plunge and dry it In the sun. Never He down, night or day. with your hair wet Shake and ventilate it in the sun. And between shampoos, if the hair is very oily, rub your brush into finely powdered orris root. Tills will remove some of the oil from the hair and insure a fragrant odor. Shields should be changed daily in Summer frocks, nnd it pays to buy wash shields only. These should be allowed to soak some time in tepid soap suds, then rinsed many times and finally dried in the sun. Io not iron them. No matter what the complexion or coloring of the hair, there is nothing so cool and effective in Summer as white, ami the simpler, the dress is made, the less attention Is drawn to physical de fects. Hut when wearing very thin white dresses, exquisite care must be taken in selecting lingerie. A woman was showing me with pride an imported gown of handkerchief linen which she had picked up for $4". It was really a creation, with fine Cluny lace inset around the nock and over the shoulders. Through this delicate Cluny lace, how ever, showed a cheap corset cover, which cost anywhere from i0 to "."i cent?, run with tawdry pink ribbon in a deep shade, and under this she wore a gauze vest which never cost a cent over a dime: Now, just imagine the sacrifice of daintiness wrought in that imported gown by the ch'jap under wear! The girl or woman who can af ford to wear handkerchief linen, batiste and other transparent materials should take time to make fine underwear II she .cannot afford to buy it- A yard of barred nainsook or dimity and a few yards of good German val. lace, with a few hours' time, would have given a corset cover worthy such a frock, and if the girl must wear a cheap gauze shirt, then by all means she should slip it over her shoulders and tuck it down Into the corset where it will not show. A fresh collar and tie will not redeem a soiled shirt-waist suit, neither will the freshest shirt-waist suit pass mus ter if a mussed collar and tie are worn with it. The Summer girl mut he Im maculate. K AT H RHINE ilOKTGN.. f
