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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 7, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE 7, 10O8. Summer Styles in New FIGURE A THK most pronounced feature of tlie mid-Summer Bhlrtwalsts now spread on all the bargain counters Is their trlklng colors. After two years of al most solid wnlte. the shirtwaist world lias suddenly blossomed out In every color of the rainbow. Particularly are the striped effects stunning - and 'be coming to all figures. The stout woman can wear them running up and down or on the bios, while the too-slender figure (will be Improved by the application of tripes, running crosswise, either as a .vest or as trimming. The prettiest stripes shown are in' the lawns and batistes, with the stripes, white and exquisitely colored, varying in width from one-sixteenth to one-eighth ft an Inch. Baby blue, turquoise blue, China blue and Copenhagen blue, royal Hue and navy blue are among the best filers. Next to this come combinations of cream and brown or ecru and brown, ttovtly lavenders and white are shown, Is acme dainty shades of pink. Very Jlttle scarlet and white Is used In shlrt iv. a 1st, as red Is always a warm shade In Bummer. As a rule these finely striped waists have matching collars and cuffs, and either very small, natty tics in white or the plain color to match the colored tripe, on for the slender girl a fluffy (Jabot of plain white lawn, the edges rcalloped and dotted In mercerized floss to match the colored stripes in the fabric. .The stout woman sfiould avoid the gathered or fluffy jabot, but she can wear the narrow, flat, pleated jabots (which are pinned to the turnover collar and show scarcely a ripple, so smoothly are the pleats laid. Another stunning mid-Summer model in the tailored shirtwaist Is developed in white lawn, batiste or nainsook, embroid ered Jn colored dots the size of a nickel, 11 In rich colorings. These coins or dots re not embroidered, or spattered all over the material, but give the effect of being arranged In strips, a line of coins about An inch and one-half or two inches apart funning from shoulder-seam to beltllne down the front, with fine tucking on cither side. Then the box pleat down the front is edged with a pleating, scal loped and embroidered to match the coins, while the Jabot or tie of white lawn is .scalloped and embroidered 1n mailer dots. These waists are partic ularly attractive in white with black: or navy blue, and in ecru with brown. In the really tailored models two ex cellent designs are shown today. FVure A is a striped effect which can be worn ty either slender or stout women, be cause the stripes are arranged on the Mas in the back. This is what is known (as a one-piece garment, with a single teleeve seam down the back and under hrm seams. The waist and sleeves are tut In one. The model is extremely! (simple to make and most comfortable (for hot weather wear. Figure B shows a very pleasing model (for the "typical tailored girl who likes 8tnen suits and is not too stout to wear (the absolutely plain design. This has a (joke in the back, straps on the shoulder, (a saucy pocket and a broad stitched pleat Ifor the finish In the front. It can be feoftened by an embroidered turnover collar and fluffy Jabot, but the really tailored maid likes to wear with this a jplaln or scalloped white collar and smart fcllk cravat. This is an especially good (model for ecru or grey or China blue linen or chambray. In Figure 3 I am showing one of the new striped turnover collars with seal Hoped edges. Inside of each scallop Is the Embroidered dot, which may be trans formed Into a flower or conventional pat Hern. These collars in imported makes tost as high as 11.50. They can be bought In the pattern, stamped on striped lawn or linen, for 10 cents each, and any Heft-fingered girl can embroider one for lierself. In the same figure are shown two etyles of lingerie ties, the elaborate 5abot and the butterfly bow. Both are (made from Irwd, edged with, lace, but I the clever girl will embroider and scal lop hers with floss to match her shirt waist. The fourth Illustration in this ifigure shows the new fjlet collar which Ifits snugly behind the ear. These col lars are most effective when made from filet - or princess net, with strips of em broidery in white, ecru or delicate ori ental colorings to hide where the cellu loid or bone supports are used. This Sort of collar is worn with net, sillfi and even lingerie blouses. In Figure D is shown one of the mora dressy waists built on shirtwaist linesi at can be developed in either wash fabi Tics or Summer silk. It gives the ef fect of an over-blouse, but In realltjf the entire garment is made in one. 'Whether made of silk or tub fabric, this waist must have a lining in which the sleeves are fastened.' The over-. Isleeve effect runs out from the should tier without a scam. The model from (which this was drawn was in sheer batiste with hand-embroidery on the Cool Effects for Town and Country WITH the advent of really warm days, the home-maker who Im agined that her Spring house cleaning had accomplished all the neces sary transformation, feels vaguely dis satisfied. The rooms which looked so fresh and inviting after the cleaning was finished now seem warm and per haps "stuffy." Possibly she will find that the best method of relieving this condition is the removal of all hangings and heavy pieces of furniture. Almost every ar ticle of furniture upholstered in deep red or yellow should be banished to the attic until cold weather, and all hang ings save the lightest and airiest should be packed away in trunks or boxes. If this leaves the house looking bare, a few typical Summer articles can toe bought for small price. For instance, if you miss the tapestry or velour hangings between living-room and dining-room, fill in the blank space with thin, shadowy effects. At a Jap anese store, you can pick up bam Boo curtains, which sway with every pass ing breeze, as low as $3 p?r pair, and these will last several Summers If carefully packed. More ornate patterns run up to $10 a pair. Or you can make portieres of fish-net " in cool, grayish green which costs 30 cents a yard and is 50 inches wide. Another pretty Summer material at 11 cents a yard is figured batiste, with oyster white or cream ground and deli cate 'pastel figures in dull blues, pinks, lavenders and- greens. A wicker chair or two will make even the city living-room look cool, but always avoid the brilliant red wicker or enameled chairs. They are isuitable only on a large lawn with cool shad ows. A new wicker now being offered in parlor furniture is known as "deal." It sells at a low figure and wears splend idly. It is rougher than the higher priced furniture, but with a few cool looking pillows piled in it, the roughness If forgotten. Denim is cool, delicate colors makes the best plain pillow covers for Sum mer. Cretonnes are very popular this year and lmlations. In very effective Summer colorings are offered ajt ten and 15 cents a yard. Cretonne will launder If care Is exercised. Gener ally the Imitations "run." The best colors for Summer are grayish green Seducing, the Skin Ills of Summer 1HE average woman suffers from one of two skin ills in Summer, perspiration of superfluous oil. The one who perspires too freely imagines that she has a corner on physical Inconvenience and pain, but, while she is annoyed by the necessity of con stantly mopping her face and changing her gloves and putting; on fresh stock ings and slippers, for actual physical discomfort and suffering: the woman with the oil' skin outdistances her every Summer day. Perspiration la at least healthy, while Shirtwaists FIGURE B. shoulder pieces, and German Val Inser tion, set oft by fine, crocheted buttons, lit would be vnqst effective, if done In (natural colored., pongee with embroi .Idery in faded blues', pinks and greens. The last illustration. Figure E, Is a model which every Summer girl will find useful, as it can bworn for either after noon or evening. The "V"-shaped neck, cut out just., a- trifle, places it in the category of dinner blouses, and yet it is tnot put of place either on the porch or ton the board walk. Personally I do not Irecommend the1 low-cut blouse for the ttypioal, outdoor girl, as her throat is sure to become tanned and discolored, but they are charming Summer raiment for the more placid girl of porch and (parasol habits. The- model from which this blouse was Idrawn was a dotted net with trimming lof Cluny lace. It would also look : well imade up in soft silk with the low yoke lof embroidered filet lace. , MART DEAN. with white and a very little yellow, or odd, dull blues with grayish green fig ures. For bedrooms the favorite cushion-cover is a flowered cretonne or a delicate tinted silesia or percaline slip, covered with dotted or embroidered Swiss, which will wash every week if necessary. The cretonne pillows are drawn up on each corner and finished with a button, generally a mold cov ered with the same material used In the cov,er. No cords, tassles. fringes or bows are seen on the cool Summer jll lows. : One of the best ways to secure a cool look In house or on the porch is to plant quantities of vines. These are the cheapest' and the most charming of all screens. The suburban woman has her porch and surrounding patch of ground. The city woman must de pend upon her window boxes. A five cent packet of morning glory seeds will screen three ordinary city windows, and if planted on either side. not through the center of the opening, they can be trained to form a perfect frame. Morning glories grow so luxuriously that they muHt not be planted too thick ly, and they must be pruned out, other wise they mat and form nesting places for insects, spiders, etc. Any carpenter or even the son of the household can make window boxes. They should be slightly wider than the outside window ledge, and should be firmly lashed or wired to the sides of the window frame. They should have small holes bored in the bottom for the water to drain off, and soft green, gray or brown paint gives the best color effect. The brown should be light and cool-looking, not a reddish brown. Red Is pretty for a time but soon looks hot. For the living room, try vinos on either side, and then train them to cross In the center of the window to form a frame and fill in the center of your box with geraniums, sweet elysium, pansies and English daisies. , Vines that grow .rapidly from seed are morning glories, cypress, dolichos, and scarlet runners, which if planted now will give you good shade by July 4. Or, you can buy any of the following plants or roots and have vine screens in a shot time: Cinnamon vine, kudzu vine. oobea scandens, akebla quinata, moon flower, and clematlc paniculata. The seeds are never more than 10 cents a package, while the plants vary from 15 to 50 cents each. the woman with the oily skin does not perspire. She merely shines and the oil clogs her pores, giving the complexion an unhealthy hue.' And the surplus oil in -the pores causes a stinging and burning that defies description. Both evils demand frequent bathing. Baths will not stem excessive perspira tion in the tiny pores, but they will prevent the odor following in the wake of perspiration or unhealthy clogged pores filling up with blackheads or comedones. The warm, bath should always 'be softened with a dash of borax. An oily skin demands benzoin and warm water, even for tLe lightest sponging. A tea spoon of finely powdered borax can be added to a tub filled three-quarters with water, and benzoin is used in the proportion of twelve drops to the ordi nary wash basin of warm water. Ben zoin Rives the water a milky look. The woman who perspires too freely must wear very large washable shields, and wash them frequently. She will find very useful the small safety pins with which shields can be fastened into wash waists. For wear with fine silk waists f!ie will find very useful the yoke-shaped shields to be fastened un der the back of her blouse between the shoulders. If-'shields are worn and washed regu larly, and hosiery and shoes changed frequently, together with borax baths and the use of a simple toilet water like .Florida - watr, lavender water or violet, there should be no odor from normal perspiration if, 'after using all odrinary methods of cleanliness, an odor exists, then a physician must be consulted. For both oily and perspiring skins, the almond meal formula' given below will furnish an excellent substitute for soap. Bitter almond meal.... 6 ounces Orrrls root (powdered) 4 ounces Wheat flour '.4 ounces White Castile soap powdered)l ounce Borax (powdered 1 ounce Oil of bergamot 2 drachms Extract of. musk 1 drachm Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops Mix all the . powders thoroughly and sift them before adding the perfunies. Stir them in and sift a second time. Keep in close-shut jars. It is conven ient to keep a small quantity on the washstand in. .8, jar with a perforated top, so that the powder can be shaken out upon the hand or cloth when used. Another excellent lotion for the oily skin is this: Tincture of benzoin '. 1 ounce Tincture of musk 2 drachms Tincture of ambergris. 4 drachms Rectified spirits 5 ounces Orange-flower water .....1 pints Add the tincture to the spirits and then the perfumed water. Use a tea spoon ofthls to" a smal basin of warm water and bathe the face thoroughly. A very simple but excellent lotion for a business girl to keep in her desk or behind the counter and use during the day. to relieve an oily skin, is this: Pulverized borax, one ounce; pure glycerine, two ounces; camphor water (not spirits of camphor), two quarts. The hair is affected by either per spiration or oil. and Is apt to look heavy and matted. Shampoo once a week with the following lotjon, rinse well and dry in the sun: Bicarbonate of soda. V. ounce; borax, 4 ounce; cologne water, 2 ounces; rec tified spirits. 1 ounce; tincture of cochineal, ounce; distilled water, 16 ounces. For excessive perspiration from the face or hands use this lotion: 1 Rose water, 6 ounces; elder flower water, 2 ounces; simple tincture o benzoin, ounce; tannic acid, 10 grains. Apply several times a day. If the perspiration is most trouble some from the feet, bear in mind that moat important are frequent changes of shoes and stockings. The feet should be bathed night and morning, and a Kood loUon to use after the bath is this: - Distilled water, 1 pint; bi chromate of potassium, 3'6 ounces; es sence of lavender, drachm. Apply to the feet with a large cam el's hair brush, being sure- that no crevice, .particularly between the toes, escapes. If the perspiration is excess ive, lay a . bit of absorbent cotton, dipped in the lotion, between the toes. A good foot powder that absorbs per spiration is this: Burnt alum, 5 grammes: salicylic acid, 2 grammes; starch. 15 grammes; Violet .talcum powder, 50 grammes. The "American" Walk. Boston Herald. So the "American walk" is now fash ionable in London. "The tiny mincing steps of the French woman and the long, manly strides of the English woman are no longer good form." But there are mannish American women even 4n Boston who have the rude stride of a male and are therefore the less charming. In the American - walk, "the walker must be slender and hold herself exceedingly up right." Then how about plump, fat, obese women In America? Have they the "American walk"? Cannot a woman who holds herself straight also have mincing steps? The French may have mincing steps, but they surpass all women of this world in the graceful management of their skirts, and many Parisians walk exceed ingly well. Again. Just what Is this "American walk"? It is described as the "swaying walk which gives the idea of a yacht in a breeze." H-m-m-m! When NECKWEAR FOR SUMMER USE Delilah enters in Milton's dramatic poem the chorus exclaims: But who is this? What thing of sea or land? Female of sex U seems, That, so bedeck'd. ornate, and gay. Come" this way, sailing Like a stately ship Of tarsus, bound for the Isles Of Javar, or Qadlre, With all her bravery on, and tackle trim, Sails flll'd and streamers waving". Das Delilah, or Dalila, as Milton pre ferred, a woman to be imitated at this late day by British matrons and maidens? Etiquette FIGURE D. LAST week we talked about what was expected of the week-end hostess, and we will now turn our attention to the guest who has been Invited to spend one or two days with an out-of-town friend. I think onesof the most common abuses to which a hostess submits is the failure of her guests to answer their iqvltatlons promptly. Say you receive an invitation on Tues day morning. You should answer it that same day if possible. This is particu larly true in case you cannot accept, as this gives the hostess an opportunity to ask another guest in your place. Re member there are other people on her list, who might be glad of a breath of country air. ' ' "Write a pellte little note at once, say ing that you cannot accept. On the other hand, if you do accept the invitation, state the hour at which you will arrive and make every effort to catch the train you have selected, as your non-appearance may keep a whole household wait ing. Do not burden yourself with quantities of extra luggage. The very fashionable girl often packs her wearing apparel in a tiny steamer trunk and carries no hand luggage whatever, but this is only nec essary when going to a place where sev eral dresses are to be worn in one day. At the average week-end party, lasting from Friday night or Saturday noon un til Monday, a girl can tuck ample cloth ing into a dress suit case. She will need one very dainty lingerie dress to wear in the evenings and a smart-looking little frock for Sunday morning. Wear your best tailored frock on the train with a dainty blouse. I have known girls to go out of town for two days and take with them enough dru-gs and cosmetics to stock a country drugstore. This is sheer folly. Take what THAT CAN BE MADE AT HOME. you absolutely need and nothing more. Do not take a huge box of face powder, all the manicuring paraphernalia you have atyour command, a big jar of cold cream, etc. Put a little powder in an envelope and seal It up, and add your nail file and polisher, with perhaps a tiny box of cream. Remember that your host ess will provide you with soap and the necessary articles on a bureau. If you object to playing cards and find of the Week that the party is going to spend an even ing in that way, do not cant about your principles. Simply decline to join the game and amuse yourself by reading a book or playing the piano softly while the others play. If you wish to go to church on Sunday morning and you find that the others are not going, do not make yourself a nuisance by insisting that some one go with you. Tell your hostess that you prefer going to church to boating or driving, and go by your self and then rejoin the party. In other words, adapt yourself to your surround ings for the day or two you are away from home. As a rule it Is better to do what the others do. If the hostess and her party are not church-goers, it is bet ter for you to stay at home that one day. but if you feel that you must go, as I said above, go alone. When young men are invited for the week end, it is a pleasant little attention to their hostess if they bring with them a box of candy Indeed. It is an almost universal custom in these days. I can also say that the young man cannot con tinue accepting invitations to week-end parties unless he, in some manner, makes Blight return to his hostess. Nine cases out of 10 the.'h :tcss at week-end parties is a married woman. If she were a sin gle, young and pretty girl, the young man would doubtless ask her in town to the treater, to dine, etc. This courtesy Is due to the married woman, too, only that her husband must be included in the Invitation. And let me say right here to the young girl who Is a guest at week-end parties, spend some of your Woman's Club Prospers in Panama Mrs. Harry W. Flagg, of Brockton, treasurer of the Massachusetts State Fed eration of Women's Clubs and past presi dent of the Brockton Woman's Club, who has been prominently identified with club work in this state for several years, has Just returned home from a trip around the Caribbean Sea, In the course of which she visited the Panama Canal Zone and conveyed the greetings of the Massachu setts Federation to the women's clubs there, as well as the good wishes of many other organizations, including the Daugh ters of Vermont and those of Sorosis of New York, the parent of all the w6men's clubs In the country. Mrs. Flagg was accorded the most hearty greetings by the clubwomen of the Zone, who made her the guest of honor at a meeting where several other distinguished women were guests. She carried with her year books and working programmes from a great many clubs, these works being full of valuable sug gestions. Mrs. Flagg says of her trip: "The women's clubs, of which there are about a dozen in the Canal Zone, are made up of a fine type of American women, wives of Army and Navy of ficers. Judicial and executive officials, en gineers and skilled mechanics sent there by the United States Government. The Federation here is much interested in the work they are doing, for it is in the same line with the work done in the Stales. "The clubs have added much to the social life thjre, and they have, besides providing' for lectures and entertain ments, established a women's exchange where articles made by the natives are for sale, co-operated with the educational department In improving the school sys tem, planned for a day nursery and are active in everything pertaining to pleas ant living on the Isthmus." "I found the trip most valuable." said Mrs. Flagg. "for I came back w-ith an enlarged outlook about the usefulness of women's clubs. I think the women of the States would be surprised to know how much the women of the Canal Zone are doing. So great have been the re sults of their efforts that the Govern ment reports compliment them for their progressiveness and their usefulness." Mrs. Flagg Is enthusiastic regarding conditions existing there. The wisdom of the Americans in first establishing a healthful condition in the Zone, so that the Canal could be dug without the ter rible loss of life that occurred under the French regime. Is clearly shown, for the work Is now going on rapidly and syste matically with the comfort and health - End Guest FIGURE E. time talking to your host, even if he is a married man. Do not upend nil the af ternoon boating with "uiliy" and all the evening with him on a corner of the porch. Devote some of your time to the host, tell him some of the bright stories you told to "Billy" and you will make yourself doubly welcome. If you 'must leave on a very early train on Monday morning, so early that it means upsetting the entire household, it Is better that you return to town on a late train Sunday night. Be sure not to make yourself obnoxious by asking a family to alter its daily habits to suit your particular desires. And when you get home, write a little note within a few days after your' return. Do not wait two or three weeks and then, fill page after page of note paper explaining why you have not written before. And do not gush in this letter. Tell your hostess briefly what a Jolly time you had and thank her for including you. Years ago it was considered bad form to tip household servants, but I do not think this rule holds good any more. Girls who call upon the maid to button their dresses, bring them coffee in bed and do other personal services, should tip that maid when they leave. A man generally leaves a small tip In the hand of the maid who cares for his room. If you go to a house frequently. It is not necessary to remember the servants each time, but occasionally give them a dollar bill. Many young bachelors and married men at house parties give the cook a tip, hut this is seldom expected of a single girl. PRUDENCE STANDISIf. of all engaged in the work well looked after. She was much impressed with the cleanliness and order everywhere ap parent. Boston Post. Qucf r Dentistry In China. North China Daily News. Right in front of us on the street doctor's table is a small heap of hu man teeth. A patient came up to the doctor. On being asked what he wanted, he replied simply by opening his mouth to the very widest extent. It was seen that his four upper front teeth were wanting. Measuring the cavity in the jaw, the tooth peddler carefully selected from the heap the funr teeth that would exactly fill it. He then drilled a hole in them longitudinally and inserted a bit of wire to hind them to each other. The ends of the wire next Inserted in holes that -were drilled into the teeth on each side of tiie cavity, and at once the chasm disappeared. When the Burglur Calls. Dondon Sketch. "John," she whispered, "there's a burglar in the parlor. Ho has just knocked against the piano and hit sev eral keys at once." "I'll go down," said he. "Oh, John, don't do nnytliing rash." "Rash! Why, I'm going to help mm. Ynu don't suppose he can remove that piano from the house without assistance." Those Foreign Names. Chicago News. Shlckshlnny. Pennsylvania, near the town of Honeypot, Is very much American a most alluring sp'ot. So little Peleg Wlntergreen. who there at tended school. Was what is known as "up to snuff" in other words, no fool. Young Peleg's principal dcllsht was conning his geography. And nearly dying laughing" at those for eigners' orthography. For "Szegedln" sounds funny as a dweller In that spot 8hickshlnney, Pennsylvania, near the town of Honeypot. When Peleg sighted "Skager Rack" he al most had a At. He'd gaze at "Budapest" and laugh uproar ously at It. He went Into a spasm over "Nyam-Nyam" in Sudan. And burst off seven buttons when he found Beloochlstan." You should have heard him shrieking when he tackled "Tlmhuctoo" ; He fairly whooped to learn there was a tribe that's called "Manchu." You see. he wasn't used to curious names, this Uttle tot