THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE 7, 10O8.
Summer Styles in New
FIGURE A
THK most pronounced feature of tlie
mid-Summer Bhlrtwalsts now spread
on all the bargain counters Is their
trlklng colors. After two years of al
most solid wnlte. the shirtwaist world
lias suddenly blossomed out In every
color of the rainbow. Particularly are
the striped effects stunning - and 'be
coming to all figures. The stout woman
can wear them running up and down or
on the bios, while the too-slender figure
(will be Improved by the application of
tripes, running crosswise, either as a
.vest or as trimming.
The prettiest stripes shown are in' the
lawns and batistes, with the stripes,
white and exquisitely colored, varying
in width from one-sixteenth to one-eighth
ft an Inch. Baby blue, turquoise blue,
China blue and Copenhagen blue, royal
Hue and navy blue are among the best
filers. Next to this come combinations
of cream and brown or ecru and brown,
ttovtly lavenders and white are shown,
Is acme dainty shades of pink. Very
Jlttle scarlet and white Is used In shlrt
iv. a 1st, as red Is always a warm shade
In Bummer.
As a rule these finely striped waists
have matching collars and cuffs, and
either very small, natty tics in white or
the plain color to match the colored
tripe, on for the slender girl a fluffy
(Jabot of plain white lawn, the edges
rcalloped and dotted In mercerized floss
to match the colored stripes in the fabric.
.The stout woman sfiould avoid the
gathered or fluffy jabot, but she can
wear the narrow, flat, pleated jabots
(which are pinned to the turnover collar
and show scarcely a ripple, so smoothly
are the pleats laid.
Another stunning mid-Summer model in
the tailored shirtwaist Is developed in
white lawn, batiste or nainsook, embroid
ered Jn colored dots the size of a nickel,
11 In rich colorings. These coins or dots
re not embroidered, or spattered all over
the material, but give the effect of being
arranged In strips, a line of coins about
An inch and one-half or two inches apart
funning from shoulder-seam to beltllne
down the front, with fine tucking on
cither side. Then the box pleat down
the front is edged with a pleating, scal
loped and embroidered to match the
coins, while the Jabot or tie of white
lawn is .scalloped and embroidered 1n
mailer dots. These waists are partic
ularly attractive in white with black:
or navy blue, and in ecru with brown.
In the really tailored models two ex
cellent designs are shown today. FVure
A is a striped effect which can be worn
ty either slender or stout women, be
cause the stripes are arranged on the
Mas in the back. This is what is known
(as a one-piece garment, with a single
teleeve seam down the back and under
hrm seams. The waist and sleeves are
tut In one. The model is extremely!
(simple to make and most comfortable
(for hot weather wear.
Figure B shows a very pleasing model
(for the "typical tailored girl who likes
8tnen suits and is not too stout to wear
(the absolutely plain design. This has a
(joke in the back, straps on the shoulder,
(a saucy pocket and a broad stitched pleat
Ifor the finish In the front. It can be
feoftened by an embroidered turnover
collar and fluffy Jabot, but the really
tailored maid likes to wear with this a
jplaln or scalloped white collar and smart
fcllk cravat. This is an especially good
(model for ecru or grey or China blue
linen or chambray.
In Figure 3 I am showing one of the
new striped turnover collars with seal
Hoped edges. Inside of each scallop Is the
Embroidered dot, which may be trans
formed Into a flower or conventional pat
Hern. These collars in imported makes
tost as high as 11.50. They can be
bought In the pattern, stamped on striped
lawn or linen, for 10 cents each, and any
Heft-fingered girl can embroider one for
lierself.
In the same figure are shown two
etyles of lingerie ties, the elaborate
5abot and the butterfly bow. Both are
(made from Irwd, edged with, lace, but I
the clever girl will embroider and scal
lop hers with floss to match her shirt
waist. The fourth Illustration in this
ifigure shows the new fjlet collar which
Ifits snugly behind the ear. These col
lars are most effective when made from
filet - or princess net, with strips of em
broidery in white, ecru or delicate ori
ental colorings to hide where the cellu
loid or bone supports are used. This
Sort of collar is worn with net, sillfi
and even lingerie blouses.
In Figure D is shown one of the mora
dressy waists built on shirtwaist linesi
at can be developed in either wash fabi
Tics or Summer silk. It gives the ef
fect of an over-blouse, but In realltjf
the entire garment is made in one.
'Whether made of silk or tub fabric,
this waist must have a lining in which
the sleeves are fastened.' The over-.
Isleeve effect runs out from the should
tier without a scam. The model from
(which this was drawn was in sheer
batiste with hand-embroidery on the
Cool Effects for Town and Country
WITH the advent of really warm
days, the home-maker who Im
agined that her Spring house
cleaning had accomplished all the neces
sary transformation, feels vaguely dis
satisfied. The rooms which looked so
fresh and inviting after the cleaning
was finished now seem warm and per
haps "stuffy."
Possibly she will find that the best
method of relieving this condition is
the removal of all hangings and heavy
pieces of furniture. Almost every ar
ticle of furniture upholstered in deep
red or yellow should be banished to the
attic until cold weather, and all hang
ings save the lightest and airiest
should be packed away in trunks or
boxes. If this leaves the house looking
bare, a few typical Summer articles can
toe bought for small price.
For instance, if you miss the tapestry
or velour hangings between living-room
and dining-room, fill in the blank space
with thin, shadowy effects. At a Jap
anese store, you can pick up bam Boo
curtains, which sway with every pass
ing breeze, as low as $3 p?r pair,
and these will last several Summers If
carefully packed. More ornate patterns
run up to $10 a pair. Or you can
make portieres of fish-net " in cool,
grayish green which costs 30 cents a
yard and is 50 inches wide. Another
pretty Summer material at 11 cents a
yard is figured batiste, with oyster
white or cream ground and deli
cate 'pastel figures in dull blues, pinks,
lavenders and- greens.
A wicker chair or two will make
even the city living-room look cool, but
always avoid the brilliant red wicker
or enameled chairs. They are isuitable
only on a large lawn with cool shad
ows. A new wicker now being offered
in parlor furniture is known as "deal."
It sells at a low figure and wears splend
idly. It is rougher than the higher
priced furniture, but with a few cool
looking pillows piled in it, the roughness
If forgotten.
Denim is cool, delicate colors makes
the best plain pillow covers for Sum
mer. Cretonnes are very popular this
year and lmlations. In very effective
Summer colorings are offered ajt ten
and 15 cents a yard. Cretonne will
launder If care Is exercised. Gener
ally the Imitations "run." The best
colors for Summer are grayish green
Seducing, the Skin Ills of Summer
1HE average woman suffers from
one of two skin ills in Summer,
perspiration of superfluous oil. The
one who perspires too freely imagines
that she has a corner on physical
Inconvenience and pain, but, while she
is annoyed by the necessity of con
stantly mopping her face and changing
her gloves and putting; on fresh stock
ings and slippers, for actual physical
discomfort and suffering: the woman
with the oil' skin outdistances her
every Summer day.
Perspiration la at least healthy, while
Shirtwaists
FIGURE B.
shoulder pieces, and German Val Inser
tion, set oft by fine, crocheted buttons,
lit would be vnqst effective, if done In
(natural colored., pongee with embroi
.Idery in faded blues', pinks and greens.
The last illustration. Figure E, Is a
model which every Summer girl will find
useful, as it can bworn for either after
noon or evening. The "V"-shaped neck,
cut out just., a- trifle, places it in the
category of dinner blouses, and yet it is
tnot put of place either on the porch or
ton the board walk. Personally I do not
Irecommend the1 low-cut blouse for the
ttypioal, outdoor girl, as her throat is sure
to become tanned and discolored, but
they are charming Summer raiment for
the more placid girl of porch and
(parasol habits.
The- model from which this blouse was
Idrawn was a dotted net with trimming
lof Cluny lace. It would also look : well
imade up in soft silk with the low yoke
lof embroidered filet lace.
, MART DEAN.
with white and a very little yellow, or
odd, dull blues with grayish green fig
ures. For bedrooms the favorite cushion-cover
is a flowered cretonne or a
delicate tinted silesia or percaline slip,
covered with dotted or embroidered
Swiss, which will wash every week if
necessary. The cretonne pillows are
drawn up on each corner and finished
with a button, generally a mold cov
ered with the same material used In
the cov,er. No cords, tassles. fringes or
bows are seen on the cool Summer jll
lows. : One of the best ways to secure a cool
look In house or on the porch is to
plant quantities of vines. These are
the cheapest' and the most charming
of all screens. The suburban woman
has her porch and surrounding patch
of ground. The city woman must de
pend upon her window boxes. A five
cent packet of morning glory seeds will
screen three ordinary city windows,
and if planted on either side. not
through the center of the opening, they
can be trained to form a perfect frame.
Morning glories grow so luxuriously
that they muHt not be planted too thick
ly, and they must be pruned out, other
wise they mat and form nesting places
for insects, spiders, etc.
Any carpenter or even the son of the
household can make window boxes.
They should be slightly wider than the
outside window ledge, and should be
firmly lashed or wired to the sides of
the window frame. They should have
small holes bored in the bottom for the
water to drain off, and soft green, gray
or brown paint gives the best color effect.
The brown should be light and cool-looking,
not a reddish brown. Red Is pretty
for a time but soon looks hot.
For the living room, try vinos on either
side, and then train them to cross In the
center of the window to form a frame
and fill in the center of your box with
geraniums, sweet elysium, pansies and
English daisies. ,
Vines that grow .rapidly from seed are
morning glories, cypress, dolichos, and
scarlet runners, which if planted now
will give you good shade by July 4. Or,
you can buy any of the following plants
or roots and have vine screens in a
shot time: Cinnamon vine, kudzu vine.
oobea scandens, akebla quinata, moon
flower, and clematlc paniculata. The
seeds are never more than 10 cents a
package, while the plants vary from 15
to 50 cents each.
the woman with the oily skin does not
perspire. She merely shines and the oil
clogs her pores, giving the complexion
an unhealthy hue.' And the surplus oil
in -the pores causes a stinging and
burning that defies description.
Both evils demand frequent bathing.
Baths will not stem excessive perspira
tion in the tiny pores, but they will
prevent the odor following in the wake
of perspiration or unhealthy clogged
pores filling up with blackheads or
comedones.
The warm, bath should always 'be
softened with a dash of borax. An oily
skin demands benzoin and warm water,
even for tLe lightest sponging. A tea
spoon of finely powdered borax can be
added to a tub filled three-quarters
with water, and benzoin is used in the
proportion of twelve drops to the ordi
nary wash basin of warm water. Ben
zoin Rives the water a milky look.
The woman who perspires too freely
must wear very large washable shields,
and wash them frequently. She will
find very useful the small safety pins
with which shields can be fastened into
wash waists. For wear with fine silk
waists f!ie will find very useful the
yoke-shaped shields to be fastened un
der the back of her blouse between the
shoulders.
If-'shields are worn and washed regu
larly, and hosiery and shoes changed
frequently, together with borax baths
and the use of a simple toilet water like
.Florida - watr, lavender water or violet,
there should be no odor from normal
perspiration if, 'after using all odrinary
methods of cleanliness, an odor exists,
then a physician must be consulted.
For both oily and perspiring skins,
the almond meal formula' given below
will furnish an excellent substitute for
soap.
Bitter almond meal.... 6 ounces
Orrrls root (powdered) 4 ounces
Wheat flour '.4 ounces
White Castile soap powdered)l ounce
Borax (powdered 1 ounce
Oil of bergamot 2 drachms
Extract of. musk 1 drachm
Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops
Mix all the . powders thoroughly and
sift them before adding the perfunies.
Stir them in and sift a second time.
Keep in close-shut jars. It is conven
ient to keep a small quantity on the
washstand in. .8, jar with a perforated
top, so that the powder can be
shaken out upon the hand or cloth
when used.
Another excellent lotion for the oily
skin is this:
Tincture of benzoin '. 1 ounce
Tincture of musk 2 drachms
Tincture of ambergris. 4 drachms
Rectified spirits 5 ounces
Orange-flower water .....1 pints
Add the tincture to the spirits and
then the perfumed water. Use a tea
spoon ofthls to" a smal basin of warm
water and bathe the face thoroughly.
A very simple but excellent lotion
for a business girl to keep in her desk
or behind the counter and use during
the day. to relieve an oily skin, is this:
Pulverized borax, one ounce; pure
glycerine, two ounces; camphor water
(not spirits of camphor), two quarts.
The hair is affected by either per
spiration or oil. and Is apt to look
heavy and matted. Shampoo once a
week with the following lotjon, rinse
well and dry in the sun:
Bicarbonate of soda. V. ounce; borax,
4 ounce; cologne water, 2 ounces; rec
tified spirits. 1 ounce; tincture of
cochineal, ounce; distilled water, 16
ounces.
For excessive perspiration from the
face or hands use this lotion: 1
Rose water, 6 ounces; elder flower
water, 2 ounces; simple tincture o
benzoin, ounce; tannic acid, 10
grains. Apply several times a day.
If the perspiration is most trouble
some from the feet, bear in mind that
moat important are frequent changes
of shoes and stockings. The feet
should be bathed night and morning,
and a Kood loUon to use after the bath
is this: - Distilled water, 1 pint; bi
chromate of potassium, 3'6 ounces; es
sence of lavender, drachm.
Apply to the feet with a large cam
el's hair brush, being sure- that no
crevice, .particularly between the toes,
escapes. If the perspiration is excess
ive, lay a . bit of absorbent cotton,
dipped in the lotion, between the toes.
A good foot powder that absorbs per
spiration is this: Burnt alum, 5
grammes: salicylic acid, 2 grammes;
starch. 15 grammes; Violet .talcum
powder, 50 grammes.
The "American" Walk.
Boston Herald.
So the "American walk" is now fash
ionable in London. "The tiny mincing
steps of the French woman and the long,
manly strides of the English woman are
no longer good form." But there are
mannish American women even 4n Boston
who have the rude stride of a male and
are therefore the less charming. In the
American - walk, "the walker must be
slender and hold herself exceedingly up
right." Then how about plump, fat, obese
women In America? Have they the
"American walk"? Cannot a woman who
holds herself straight also have mincing
steps?
The French may have mincing steps,
but they surpass all women of this world
in the graceful management of their
skirts, and many Parisians walk exceed
ingly well. Again. Just what Is this
"American walk"? It is described as the
"swaying walk which gives the idea of
a yacht in a breeze." H-m-m-m! When
NECKWEAR FOR SUMMER USE
Delilah enters in Milton's dramatic poem
the chorus exclaims:
But who is this? What thing of sea or land?
Female of sex U seems,
That, so bedeck'd. ornate, and gay.
Come" this way, sailing
Like a stately ship
Of tarsus, bound for the Isles
Of Javar, or Qadlre,
With all her bravery on, and tackle trim,
Sails flll'd and streamers waving".
Das Delilah, or Dalila, as Milton pre
ferred, a woman to be imitated at this
late day by British matrons and maidens?
Etiquette
FIGURE D.
LAST week we talked about what was
expected of the week-end hostess,
and we will now turn our attention
to the guest who has been Invited to
spend one or two days with an out-of-town
friend.
I think onesof the most common abuses
to which a hostess submits is the failure
of her guests to answer their iqvltatlons
promptly.
Say you receive an invitation on Tues
day morning. You should answer it that
same day if possible. This is particu
larly true in case you cannot accept, as
this gives the hostess an opportunity to
ask another guest in your place. Re
member there are other people on her
list, who might be glad of a breath of
country air. ' '
"Write a pellte little note at once, say
ing that you cannot accept. On the other
hand, if you do accept the invitation,
state the hour at which you will arrive
and make every effort to catch the train
you have selected, as your non-appearance
may keep a whole household wait
ing. Do not burden yourself with quantities
of extra luggage. The very fashionable
girl often packs her wearing apparel in
a tiny steamer trunk and carries no hand
luggage whatever, but this is only nec
essary when going to a place where sev
eral dresses are to be worn in one day.
At the average week-end party, lasting
from Friday night or Saturday noon un
til Monday, a girl can tuck ample cloth
ing into a dress suit case. She will need
one very dainty lingerie dress to wear in
the evenings and a smart-looking little
frock for Sunday morning. Wear your
best tailored frock on the train with a
dainty blouse.
I have known girls to go out of town
for two days and take with them enough
dru-gs and cosmetics to stock a country
drugstore. This is sheer folly. Take what
THAT CAN BE MADE AT HOME.
you absolutely need and nothing more.
Do not take a huge box of face powder,
all the manicuring paraphernalia you
have atyour command, a big jar of cold
cream, etc. Put a little powder in an
envelope and seal It up, and add your
nail file and polisher, with perhaps a tiny
box of cream. Remember that your host
ess will provide you with soap and the
necessary articles on a bureau.
If you object to playing cards and find
of the Week
that the party is going to spend an even
ing in that way, do not cant about your
principles. Simply decline to join the
game and amuse yourself by reading a
book or playing the piano softly while
the others play. If you wish to go to
church on Sunday morning and you find
that the others are not going, do not
make yourself a nuisance by insisting
that some one go with you. Tell your
hostess that you prefer going to church
to boating or driving, and go by your
self and then rejoin the party. In other
words, adapt yourself to your surround
ings for the day or two you are away
from home. As a rule it Is better to do
what the others do. If the hostess and
her party are not church-goers, it is bet
ter for you to stay at home that one day.
but if you feel that you must go, as I
said above, go alone.
When young men are invited for the
week end, it is a pleasant little attention
to their hostess if they bring with them
a box of candy Indeed. It is an almost
universal custom in these days. I can
also say that the young man cannot con
tinue accepting invitations to week-end
parties unless he, in some manner, makes
Blight return to his hostess. Nine cases
out of 10 the.'h :tcss at week-end parties
is a married woman. If she were a sin
gle, young and pretty girl, the young
man would doubtless ask her in town to
the treater, to dine, etc. This courtesy
Is due to the married woman, too, only
that her husband must be included in
the Invitation. And let me say right
here to the young girl who Is a guest
at week-end parties, spend some of your
Woman's Club Prospers in Panama
Mrs. Harry W. Flagg, of Brockton,
treasurer of the Massachusetts State Fed
eration of Women's Clubs and past presi
dent of the Brockton Woman's Club, who
has been prominently identified with club
work in this state for several years, has
Just returned home from a trip around
the Caribbean Sea, In the course of which
she visited the Panama Canal Zone and
conveyed the greetings of the Massachu
setts Federation to the women's clubs
there, as well as the good wishes of many
other organizations, including the Daugh
ters of Vermont and those of Sorosis of
New York, the parent of all the w6men's
clubs In the country.
Mrs. Flagg was accorded the most
hearty greetings by the clubwomen of
the Zone, who made her the guest of
honor at a meeting where several other
distinguished women were guests. She
carried with her year books and working
programmes from a great many clubs,
these works being full of valuable sug
gestions. Mrs. Flagg says of her trip:
"The women's clubs, of which there are
about a dozen in the Canal Zone, are
made up of a fine type of American
women, wives of Army and Navy of
ficers. Judicial and executive officials, en
gineers and skilled mechanics sent there
by the United States Government. The
Federation here is much interested in the
work they are doing, for it is in the same
line with the work done in the Stales.
"The clubs have added much to the
social life thjre, and they have, besides
providing' for lectures and entertain
ments, established a women's exchange
where articles made by the natives are
for sale, co-operated with the educational
department In improving the school sys
tem, planned for a day nursery and are
active in everything pertaining to pleas
ant living on the Isthmus."
"I found the trip most valuable." said
Mrs. Flagg. "for I came back w-ith an
enlarged outlook about the usefulness of
women's clubs. I think the women of
the States would be surprised to know
how much the women of the Canal Zone
are doing. So great have been the re
sults of their efforts that the Govern
ment reports compliment them for their
progressiveness and their usefulness."
Mrs. Flagg Is enthusiastic regarding
conditions existing there. The wisdom
of the Americans in first establishing a
healthful condition in the Zone, so that
the Canal could be dug without the ter
rible loss of life that occurred under the
French regime. Is clearly shown, for the
work Is now going on rapidly and syste
matically with the comfort and health
- End Guest
FIGURE E.
time talking to your host, even if he is a
married man. Do not upend nil the af
ternoon boating with "uiliy" and all the
evening with him on a corner of the
porch. Devote some of your time to the
host, tell him some of the bright stories
you told to "Billy" and you will make
yourself doubly welcome.
If you 'must leave on a very early train
on Monday morning, so early that it
means upsetting the entire household, it
Is better that you return to town on a
late train Sunday night. Be sure not to
make yourself obnoxious by asking a
family to alter its daily habits to suit
your particular desires. And when you
get home, write a little note within a few
days after your' return. Do not wait
two or three weeks and then, fill page
after page of note paper explaining why
you have not written before. And do
not gush in this letter. Tell your hostess
briefly what a Jolly time you had and
thank her for including you.
Years ago it was considered bad form
to tip household servants, but I do not
think this rule holds good any more.
Girls who call upon the maid to button
their dresses, bring them coffee in bed
and do other personal services, should
tip that maid when they leave. A man
generally leaves a small tip In the hand
of the maid who cares for his room. If
you go to a house frequently. It is not
necessary to remember the servants each
time, but occasionally give them a dollar
bill. Many young bachelors and married
men at house parties give the cook a tip,
hut this is seldom expected of a single
girl. PRUDENCE STANDISIf.
of all engaged in the work well looked
after. She was much impressed with the
cleanliness and order everywhere ap
parent. Boston Post.
Qucf r Dentistry In China.
North China Daily News.
Right in front of us on the street
doctor's table is a small heap of hu
man teeth. A patient came up to the
doctor. On being asked what he
wanted, he replied simply by opening
his mouth to the very widest extent.
It was seen that his four upper front
teeth were wanting.
Measuring the cavity in the jaw, the
tooth peddler carefully selected from
the heap the funr teeth that would
exactly fill it. He then drilled a hole
in them longitudinally and inserted a
bit of wire to hind them to each other.
The ends of the wire next Inserted
in holes that -were drilled into the
teeth on each side of tiie cavity, and
at once the chasm disappeared.
When the Burglur Calls.
Dondon Sketch.
"John," she whispered, "there's a
burglar in the parlor. Ho has just
knocked against the piano and hit sev
eral keys at once."
"I'll go down," said he.
"Oh, John, don't do nnytliing rash."
"Rash! Why, I'm going to help mm.
Ynu don't suppose he can remove that
piano from the house without assistance."
Those Foreign Names.
Chicago News.
Shlckshlnny. Pennsylvania, near the town
of Honeypot,
Is very much American a most alluring
sp'ot.
So little Peleg Wlntergreen. who there at
tended school.
Was what is known as "up to snuff" in
other words, no fool.
Young Peleg's principal dcllsht was conning
his geography.
And nearly dying laughing" at those for
eigners' orthography.
For "Szegedln" sounds funny as a dweller
In that spot
8hickshlnney, Pennsylvania, near the town
of Honeypot.
When Peleg sighted "Skager Rack" he al
most had a At.
He'd gaze at "Budapest" and laugh uproar
ously at It.
He went Into a spasm over "Nyam-Nyam"
in Sudan.
And burst off seven buttons when he found
Beloochlstan."
You should have heard him shrieking when
he tackled "Tlmhuctoo" ;
He fairly whooped to learn there was a tribe
that's called "Manchu."
You see. he wasn't used to curious names,
this Uttle tot