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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 10, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX. PORTLAND, 3IAY 10, 1908. 7 .Pis! The Hand Embroidered Millinery Fad OL'BLY BLESSED is the home-sewer who has mastered the art of rapid, showy embroidery, for her millinery bill will be greatly reduced thereby. This is a Summer of embroidered hats, em broidered sun bonnets and embroidered Charlotte Corday caps. Likewise it is a Summer in which almost every costume demands its matching hat, thanks to ec centricities In coloring. The girl who can embroider a hat or fetching cap to match eacli of her Summer frocks of lawn or linen will be strictly in the swim at small expense. For the past few years the lingerie Jiat has been considered the privilege of the rich only, because, unless made by a master hand. It was apt to .look dowdy. But the American woman Is most resourceful and persevering, -so she has attacked every lingerie bat dif ficulty and emerged triumphant. The most marked departure of this sea Bon in lingerie hats Is the wide ranee of colors and trimming. Formerly white linen or pique only was used for the foundation of the stiff embroidered hat, with perhaps a bow of white or delicately tinted ribbon, while for the more dressy hat white lace plaited or fluted and en twined with soft ribbon, was used. This season the linen and lawn hats come in all colors to match frocks, six or seven, shades of blue, and as many of pink, shading from the heart of a blush rose to the rich American beauty hue. Of yellows I have seen at least lour shades in both, linen and lawn. In addition to browns and the natural pongee hade. Many of the white liats are em broidered In colors, and. vice versa, you will find colored linens embroidered in (White. Trimmings are equally catholic and varied. On the stiff linen sailor you will find the inevitable "Merry Widow" or Alsatian bow, but generally there will be at least one huge, placid-looking rose tucked on the left side or in the very center of the how. Or there may be a stiff, almost tailored wreath of small flowers around the crown and a huge bow in the front. The lingerie hat In finely shirred or pleated lawn, with lace and embroidery of the very finest sort Inset or edging mo onm, may be trimmed with Quanti ties of flowers and choux of lace. Huge choux of mirror velvet, looking for all the world like heads of lettuce with flowers for their hearts, are used for trimming the lace hats. Kor wear with a rather heavy linen, pique, madras or percale costume, there is nothing better than the hand-embroidered sailor to match, and for that use we are showing a very good model, with a detached crown which buttons to the brim by means of shaped tabs. These are un buttoned when the hat is to be laundered, and the ribbon is run under the tabs when the hat is made up. The pattern con sists ot a foundation brim and band, an embroidered brim and the crown. The girl who Is quick with her embroidery needle can ornament this shape with Wallachlan or English eyelet stitchery, but the girl who Is inexperienced had best buy heavy all-over embroidery, of which she will require seven-eighths of a yard. She can then finish the edge of the brim with scallops, heavily buttonhole stitched with mercerized floss, or she can use a narrow,, finely plaited Val. edge. This pattern will look well in any of the colored linens, embroidered with self tone or white, and trimmed with match ing or shaded ribbons. I saw the other day in a smart shop a sailor built on Jiyt these lines In natural colored linen. HAND WORKED HATS AND BONNETS FOR THE BABY OF THE FAMILY. simply scalloped around the edge with natural toned floss. The ribbon running round the crown was rose-colored, and for trimming there were three enormous silk pompons, in as many shades of rose color, from pale to almost a cerise tint. Another stunning combination showed a linen suit in natural pongee color, with a hat to match, embroidered In a perfect shade of cardinal red floss and trimmed with an Alsatian bow of cardinal red taffeta ribbon. A cardinal vestee was worn with the suit. A lovely lingerie hat shown with a gown of cream-colored batiste was of cream- colored linen embroidered with Wallachian stitches in two exquisite shades of pink. The flowers in the pattern were dona In the lighter shade of pink, the eyelets In the darker shade, and the only trimming on ine nai was a Dow made almost entire ly of loops in two shades of pink velvet ribbon matching the tones used in the em broidery. The chemisette and cuffs of the batiste dress were embroidered in pink to match the hat. The Charlotte Corday caD. which is en- Joying a tremendous vogue, Is shaped not uniiKe a nign dusting cap. with a soft rather narrow brim made of one deep or a number of narrow flounces, either lace or emDroidery. it Is generally trimmed quite elaborately with twisted coils of ribbon, in colors, or In black velvet, or in the new gilt and silver ribbons. A ravonte combination on the Charlotte Corday hat of fine lace or embroidery is delicate blue ribbon with pink roses or delicate pink ribbon with blue foriret menots. Exquisite little yellow flowers such as never grew in any garden or neia, are comDined with black velvet rib bons. When the frock Is of lawn with a com bination trimming of lace and embroiderv. both lace and embroidery appear In the hat, and generally speaking, the hat is more becoming . if innumerable little piaited mils of lace face the brim. For the outdoor girl, there is the usual array of fetching sun bonnets and the very newest fancy is to have the strings come out from the center of the back of the brim, instead of either side. Pique hats and sun bonnets are in vogue for girlies as well as their eider sisters, and no little maiden's Summer wardrobe is complete without a stiff hand-embroidered hat and a fussy sunhnnnet which is generally a mass of embroiderv and lace. When a little girl has a bes't frock of delicately tinted batiste or lawn either pink, blue or yellow, most effective is a matching hat or bonnet, made from the same material, especially if the fabric be embroidered. .Children also -have hats ana mtie coats embroidered alike. MART DEAN Some Tasty Desserts With the Early Fruits AFTER a Winter of plum puddings, rich custards andl heavy mince pies, all the members of the house hold will welcome the sight and taste of early fruits. In large cities, strawberries liave been In market for some time, pine apples are plentiful and cheap, and pie plant always makes a tasty dessert after a. sweet salad. Here are a few recipes which the housewife will welcome: Pieplant pie This pie should have only the lower crust of fairly rich pastry. Cover a deep pie dish with a crust and fill with the following: Stew the pieplant In as little water as possible until very tender. Beat the yolks of two eggs, two tablespoons of cornstarch, and half a cup of sugar all together. Put this In the pieplant and let It boll until thick, then add the Juice of one small lemon. Fill the crust with this. Make a meringue of the whites of the eggs and two table rpoons of sugar, and brown in medium oven. Pineapple Tipsy Cut the top from a large, very ripe pineapple. Also cut suf ficient from the stalk end to make it stand firmly on a platter. Now remove all the inside portion of the pineapple, tearing It away with a fork, and leaving nothing but the hollow case. Remove the hard pieces of the fruit and cut into small dice. Put these into a deep dish with an equal amount of fresh straw berries, cut In halves. Sprinkle liberally with granulated sugar and cover with a wineglass of sherry, place on the Ice for an hour, occasionally basting the fruit with the syrup which forms. Put the pineapple case in the Ice box. When ready to serve, add half a cupful of nut meats to the fruit mixture, fill tho pine apple case, and serve on a platter gar nished with geranium leaves. Rhubarb Tartlets Make a puff paste as follows and fill tart shells with it: One pound of butter, one of flour and the white of one egg. "Wash the salt out of the butter, or use fresh butter, if you have it. It Is likewise better to use what is known as pastry flour, not patent. Take a little of the butter with iS-'-.-Vt CHARLOTTE CORDAY CAP AND STIFF SAILOR IN WALLACHIAN EMBROIDERY. the flour and white of an egg and mix Into dough with a small quantity of Ice water. Roll out rather thin, spread on a layer of butter, fold over and roll again. Repeat this process until the butter is all used. Now put this away on the Ice until the next day, when it will be ready for use. Fill the tart shells with rather a thick layer of this, brown In quick oven and fill with rhu barb prepared as follows: Neatly trim one pound of fresh rhubarb, remove all the fibers, wash in cold water, drain and cut into pieces not over an inch long. Place in a saucepan with four ounces of sugar (preferably brown) and half a tea-spoonful of vanilla extract. Mix well with a wooden spoon, cover the pan and let it cook slowly for about 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Fill shells with this, edge with powdered sugar and serve. Strawberry Charlotte Russe Line the bottom of a tin or china mold with white paper, and the sides with split lady fin gers or thin slices of sponge cake. Soak one ounce of gelatine in half a pint of cold water. When soft, place on the fire and let it remain until dissolved. Press one quart of fresh strawberries through a sieve and add to them one cup of powdered sugar. When the gelatine is cold, mix with the- berries and sugar, add one pint of cream whipped still and sweetened to taste. Pour this mixture into the middle of the lined moid and place on ice. This is to be eaten ice cold. Bean Sandwiches These are excellent if men are counted among the list of guests. Press cold baked beans through a vegetable press or fine colander; allow two tablespoons of finely minced celery, two tablespoons of horseradish, a dash of catsup, lemon Juice and made mus tard. Cut Boston brown bread Into thin slices, spread with the, above mixture and serve with midget pickles. Etiquette for the May Moovers JUST now the exodus for the suburb or country colony is at its height, and many new arrivals are wondering Just what will be expected of them by old-timers. "We have Just taken a house for the season at ; a very pretty suburb, and if the weather permits, we will remain until November. Of course I want to have some social pleasures. How do we get acquainted? We have a beautiful new home, but friends tell us that is very exclusive." - , According to good form in the suburbs, there is nothing more deplorable than open attempts to force the social situa tion. The experienced suburbanite al ways learns about newcomers and de cides whether to call upon them. The writer of the above letter need have no anxiety. If she Is a desirable acquaint ance she will be welcomed in the sub urban circle. Allowing her a reasonable time to get settled, probably about a fortnight, old residents will begin to call upon her. If she has come to the suburb from a very (Treat distance and is absolutely unknown, the best thing for her to do is to rent a pew in the church with whose denomina tion she has identified herself elsewhere. The pastor and his wife will call upon her. and their report of the meeting will go far to influence others to call. Sometimes a number of families settle in a suburb at practically the same time, and may desire to exchange calls among themselves. In this case the younger woman invariably calls upon the elder, who must return the call within a fort night. When the new family contains a mother and daughter, the latter old enough to be out socially, the caller leaves two cards. In returning calls the newcomer makes i sure of the number of ladies in the fam ily on which she Is calling, and leaves the requisite number of cards. When returning the call of the local clergyman and his wife, the newcomer leaves her own cards and two of her hus band's. If the latter Is not able to call with her. - If the newcomer is not acquainted per sonally with any of her newly acquired neighbors, but learns that one or more of them do know a few of her city acquaint ances, she can use tact to secure the en tering social wedge. When she is calling on her city friends, she can mention the fact of her removal to the suburb, and delicately lead the topio to mutual ac quaintances. Then her city friends will probably volunteer to drop a line to the suburban acquaintance, stating that "My friend, Mrs. Blank, has moved to Happy Hollow. I do hope you wll have the pleasure of meeting her.' The averatre suburbanite would take this hint and call at once. In the suburbs, calling is a trifle less formal than in town, but every woman has her day at home. Hours are often earlier, and the hostess is generally ready to receive any time after the luncheon hour. Later in the season morning calls of great informality are paid, hostess and guests remaining on the porch. The week-end habit of entertaining In the suburbs is quite general, .and the newcomer who has the faculty of gather ing under her roof charming parties of city friends from Friday till Monday is sure to prove popular with her new neigh bors, who like to be Invited to meet in formally these week-end guests. The old resident who proposes to act as social sponsor for a newcomer generally frtves a tea In honor of the latter. All her guests must then call upon the guest of honor within a fortnight after the tea PRUDENCE STANDISH. Various Creams for Various Skins Indian as a Bargain Hunter Chilocco Indian School Journal.. THE reservation Indians in the Southwest have many quaint Ideas of trade, w hich often are amusing, though childish, A contributor was lately among the Navajo and Moqul Indians In' Arizona. At Armijo's trading post at Oriabi, Ariz., he writes, the customers are both Navajos and HopL A Hopl came in one day and, after pricing an" ax, bought it for $1.25, giving Armijo $1.50. He received 25 cents In change. After a while he came back and, look ing wise, asked Armijo what he had taken out of his 51.50 for the ax. On Pretty Neckwear, Utilizing Material Left From Summer Dressmaking. LINGERIE HATS OF PALE PINK LAWN, EMBROIDERED IN WHITE, WITH PINK RIBBONS. IN no .respect Is the average woman so thoughtless as In the selection of creams and lotions for her toilet table. I have actually met womenwho bought a complexion remedy because they liked the shape of the Jar In which it was sold, or the perfume used to disguise the emollient properties. Again, I have heard women say "Oh, I must get some of that cream Mrs. Blank uses. She has a perfectly lovely skin, and she says she owes it to cream." Now, if the speaker's skin and Mrs. Blank's happen to be alike, the cream may suit both, but if one has an oily skin and the other a dry one, the same cream or lotion should not be used by both women. Every skin demands Its own lotion. What will feed the skin of many wrin kles or a flaccid look Is not needed for the plump, well colored, norm jl skin which needs not feeding, but merely cleansing. The girl with the oily skin must avoid the waxes which the girl with the harsh, scaly skin must use to acquire smoothness of texture In her complexion. And above all things, the woman with a tendency to hair on the face must know what any cream or lotion she uses contains. Otherwise she may be using lanoline, which is guaranteed to encourage the growth of superfluous hairs. Every woman of dainty habits and ordinary intelligence can compound her own toilet preparations. She will need a double boiler, pure ingredients ac curately measured, some little Jars with tight, screw-tops, a fine hair sieve or cheese cloth for straining mixtures and patience. Every woman, no matter what the texture of her skin, should use some sort of cold cream to remove dirt and grime from clogged pores. A dry skin demands liberal use of cold cream, and certain flabby, deeply wrinkled complexions should be fed over night on flesh-makers thoroughly rubbed in, but the oily skin should be rapidly cleansed with the cream, then bathed with hot water containing a little ben zoin, and not a trace of the cream be left In the pores. A dependable formula for cold cream without lanoline is this: Melt in your double boiler one ounce of spermaceti and one of best white wax, which you can buy of any druggist. Add four ounces of pure almond oil. Mix and remove from the fire, pour the mix ture into a porcelain bowl and beat steadily until smooth, creamy and cool. Then add, particularly at this season of the year, one drachm tincture of benzoin to prevent the cream's becom ing rancid, and scent with four ounces of rosewater, lilac or violet toilet water. Pack into small, wldemouthed jars, cover these tightly to exclude all air and keep in a cool, dark place until ready to use. This Is the very best cleansing cream. When the skin Is very harsh and dry, or when it burns easily in Summer sun and wind, use this cream: Almond oil, four ounces; spermaceti, one ounce; white wax, one ounce; cucumber juice, two ounces. This Is just the season for making any cucumber cream, as the vegetable is cheaper than during the .Winter. Se lect large cucumbers ready for table use, say half a dozen. Cut them up fine without paring, and pound them into a paste with a small potato mash er in a heavy china bowl, or with a, mortar and pestle. Strain through a jelly bap and perfume the juice with half a drachm of violet extract. Melt your spermaceti and white wax as described above. Beat In the almond oil and two unces of cucumber Juice, and continue to beat until smooth. The oily skin demands an astringent lotion to be used after the pores have been cleansed with cold cream. Hera is one that is not only simple, hut de lightfully cooling and whitening. Mix one-half ounce of tincture of bezoin with two darchms tincture of vanilla (bought from a reliable druggist). Then add verj slowly to prevent curdling, one and one half, pinrts of triple rosewater. The resull should be a perfectly milky-white emul sion, which is applied with antiseptic gauze. When there are pimples, use tills cream: Lanoline, 2 ounces; almond oil, 2H ounces; sulphur precipitate, 2l-2 onuces; oxide of zinc, Hi ounces; violet extract, 2 drachms. Rub the oil very slowly and carefully into the sulphur and zinc until you se cure a smooth paste, then add the lano line and the extract. Pack into a porce lain jar with a tight cover. At night, touch each pimple with a camel's liait brush which has been dipped in this cream. Allow it to remain on over night and in the morning remove with a bit of old soft linen. The woman troubled with freckles needs a lotion quite different from any of these. This affliction will be the topic of next week's article. KATHERINE MORTON. The Art of Daintiness in Little Things being told $1.23 he shoved the 25 cents toward Armijo and said: "Now give me the 50 cents." An Indian bought a piece of mutton from this same trader for $2.25, for which the trader had asked him $2.50. After thinking a while the Indian asked for his money, saying he did not wish the meat. When given $2.25 he protested, and asked for $2.50, telling Armijo In no unmistaken language that If it was worth that much to the trader it certainly was to him. When refused the extra 25 cents he took the matter up with the missionary, a per son often appealed to In matters of this kind, and who, as a general thing, settles them so that the Indian and the trader are both satisfied. Buckskins were very scare at one trading post and the trader was offer ing extra inducements to get Indians to bring some, in, having heard of sev eral recently tanned In a certain neigh borhood on the reservation. One Navajo had told this trader where the skins were. The Navajo was told that lie would be given two Navajo blankets worth as much as the skins would sell for and he could trade them for the skius. Upon their receipt by the trader the Indian was promised a nice saddle blanket for his part In the deal. He acquiesced, but insisted upon having the three blankets then, and they were given to him. Next morning when the trader went to open his store there sat the Navajo on the step. "Oh," thought Mr. Trader, "here is where I get my skins." The Indian unrolled his bundle and produced the two blankets the post trader had given him in ex change for the buckskin. "Me no trade, said the Indian, having changed his mind. On being asked where the saddle blanket was he tried to make the trader understand that the blan ket had been given to him and that he was going to keep it. A prolonged discussion was necessary to convince the Indian that he had no right to the blanket. A Navajo rode into a trading post at supper time, just as the eggs and bacon were frying. His saddle was trimmed with Navajo hand-hammered silver or naments and his bridle was almost cov ered with silver. The Navajo sat down and remained dumb as an oyster. The trader offered to buy the bridle, and the Navajo finally consented to take $23 for it. The trader counted out 23 silver dol lars to the Indian, expecting that he would spend most of it at the store be fore he rode away. The trader was dis appointed. After eating a hearty supper the Navajo departed, saying he would return next morning to trade. "That Navajo's mind is working; he Is up to something. I'll bet you a new hat he'll be back before long," said the trader. Sure enough, he appeared in the door way even before supper was over and said he had changed his mind about selling the bridle, and offered the $23 to the trader. The trader laughed, accepted the mone and returned the bridle to the Indian, who quietly replaced it on his horse and rode away his appetite for supper appeased. WHITE gloves can be successfully cleaned or "washed" at home by a very simple process. Try the experiment on an old pair first. Shave pure white soap into a little water and let It boil until all the soap Is dissolved, then pour out into a cup or jar. When cold and quite thick it is ready for use. Put the gloves on your hand and with a soft flannel cloth dipped lh the paste, rub the soiled parts, then wipe off with another clean rag. Lace and chiffon veils can be washed very successfully. If the veil is white It can be left in the suds to soak, but if it Is colored.it should not be allowed to remain long in the water. Use warm, not hot water, and make a suds of a pure white soap. Laundry soap will not do for this purpose. Squeeze the veil in the hands, and rinse it up and down in the water. In washing white' veils a small quantity of borax can be added to the water: not In cleaning colored ones, however. Rinse in clear cold water and allow to dry. then iron on the wrong side. Even dark brown chiffon and lace will wash nicely in this manner. To clean black silk from mud stains the following process, is often very suc cessful: Peel and cut into very small pieces one potato and pour over it a pint of boiling water, cover and let it stand over night. Then add enough spirits of wine to give it the consistency of very thin starch. Sponge the silk rapidly with this liquid and rub each spot carefully, letting the liquid wet the material Red and White Meat 13 THERE any difference between the food values of red and white meats? It used to be supposed that white meat was harmless In cases where red meat might be Injurious, and that in general the red Is much heartier food than the white. Largely as a result of the work of Offer and Rosenquist, published in 1899, this current view was modified, and it came to be generally accepted that from the analytical standpoint at least there was but little distinction. This be lief, we are told by a writer in the Med ical Record (New York, March 21), has not been entirely in accord with the ex perience of those accustomed to treat such diseases as gout and nephritis. Says this paper: - "It has been pointed out that while Offer and Rosenquist's observations showed that as far as raw meat was concerned, the difference between the amounts of nitrogenous extractives and bases In the red and white varieties were so slight as to be practically negligible. It remained to be demonstrated that the process of cooking and the manner in which this was done did not alter the conditions. This question has been taken up by Adler, who presents the records of analyses of numerous meats both In the raw and cooked condition. While his results on raw meats correspond closely with those of -the previous investigators, he found on comparing veal and beef that both frying and boiling caused the extractives of the former to be reduced to about one-fifth of their raw amounts, while with the beef the difference was unimportant. Analyses of other meats gave similar results, and he concludes that in the cooked condition there Is a sufficient difference between extractive content of red and white meats, particu larly beef and veal, to Justify a distinc tion between the two. Cooking there fore seems to cause white meats to lose more of their extractives than is the case with red, and taking for granted a deleterious property on the part ot the nitrogenous extractives, the clinical ob servation that in certain maladies red meats are Injurious finds analytical con firmation." Literary Digest. I thoroughly. Press the silk dry on the wrong side, running the iron up and down Ihe silk, not across it. ' To wash ribbons used in underwear, you should begin by buying a good quality of ribbon, for in the long run it will pay you. If the ribbons are stained from perspiration, any naphtha soap Is a good cleanser. Wet the ribbons with tepid, not hot, water, and rub the soap directly on the ribbon. Fold the rib bons up in an old towel and let them stay for half an hour or so, then rinse out in warm water and all the soil will come away. Iron dry. If the ribbons are not stained from perspiration and only mussed, wash with a suds of pure white soap and warm water. Iron between old linen cloths. In ironing all ribbons you should have a thick pad under them. A Turkish towel makes a good pad, or an old blanket doubled two or three times. Embroidered linens should never.be put in with the regular wash, and should never be entrusted to a servant. They should be washed in a china or earthen bowl to avoid the possibility of any rust. They should be washed in warm water and the soiled portions rubbed with pure white soap, then rubbed between the hands a very little, as heavy rubbing ruffs up the silk. Rinse in clean water and dry by putting in a Turkish towel and wringing and twisting until the moisture is almost all absorbed. Now lay the piece face down on a clean linen cloth over a thick pad. spread a thin white cloth over the embroidered article and Iron quickly and lightly with a fairly-hot iron. Be careful not to press too heavily on the embroidered portion, as this Is apt to make steam form and will take the Uf and lustre from the silk. Unless you are a typical outdoor girl with a large Income,' do not Invest in chamois skin gloves for Summer. The athletic girl who drives a great deal likes this large loose glove for rough wear, but they are not a good Invest ment for the typical Summer girl. They make the hand look large, and while they wash as clerks guarantee they will, like the chamois skin you use for clean ing windows, they have weak spots and wash through on the latter. A good silk glove is a far better Investment, but do not be Inveigled into buying brilliant blues, greens, purples and rose colors to match your silk or linen frock. White, or soft shade of tan, are In better taste; black gloves are hot In Summer and should be worn by those In mourning only. Beware button trimming on your Sum mer gown unless you have quantities of pretty buttons to use. Half a dozen but tons or ordinary size scattered on a blouse, and a dozen more on a skirt make no showing whatever. On the Summer coat you may use two or three very large, showy buttons on the front, but If you are trimming a gown with them you must have .dozens of small buttons arranged in groups or designs. Neither are plain buttons used except on severely tailored suits. The crocheted button Is most popular. A FETCHING SONBONNET FOR GIRLS AND THEIR BIG SISTERS, IN " EYELET WORK.
