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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 19, 1908)
8 MM -1 v t ,j3ZSzzrszzzrdS 22riAZZE'sr BY FRANK O. CARPENTKR. pj NATION of four million blacks who are beginning to plant American cotton. A territory which has some of the best cotton soil known to the world and which is as big: as Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, South Carolina and Georgia combined. A country protected by Great Britain whose people have millions to back it and who make and sell more cotton than any other nation outaido our own. These are some of the conditions which point toward Vganda as the African cot tort ' land of the future. The cloud is now no bigger than the hand of a man; but it is growing and It may bring mighty storms Into our financial sky. Cotton in Uganda. It is now only two years since the British began to experiment with cot ton raising In this, part of the world. The first seed wag sent oul by the Brit ish Cotton Growing Association, and it was distributed to the native chiefs throughout the country. That whs in J904, and there are now thousands of little plantations all over Uganda. In most places the fields are less than an acre Jn size; and in many they consist of only little patches connected with the bananas growing about the houses. Nevertheless, the cotton is everywhere, and everywhere It grows well. This is so with almost no cultivation. I have walked through fields where the plants were higher than my head and have pulled the lint from fat bolls surrounded by weeds. The amount of seed first used was about 1000 pounds. The product last year from this was almost 2.000.000 pounds: and the output. of the current year will be 5,000, WO pounds of seed cotton. This all comes from cultivated patches set out by the Datives and worked by them, almost with out instruction from those who are engi neering the cotton movement here. I have Been hundreds of bags brought into Kam pala on the heads of the natives, who Walk many miles to take their lint to the hiarket. The amount coming In now is Something like two tons per day, and there are great warehouses here which lire packed full of cotton ready for gin Ming. Cotton on Lake Victoria. The cotton movemenet is being engi neered by the Uganda Company, Limited. This is an association of English capital sts who have been more or less interested n the Christian mission work going on n Uganda. They represent a great deal f money, and have active and up-ot-date nen in their employ out here. They have British manager and assistants and are putting up a big ginning plant, with the best of modern ginning machinery. Twenty-four gins are already running, and these are operated by two steam en gines, one of which Is of a bundred-horse bower. The gins were made by Piatt Brothers . Co., of England, and were installed by Relic From Bleak Summit of Mt. St. Helens Record Book Now in Portland Contains Names and Personal Observations of Mountaineers for Many Tears. THE old, wrecked and moldy record back of the mountaineers who have made the ascent' of Mount St. .Helens has been brought down from the peak, where it has been for 20 years, nd has been, filed itt the archives of the Alpine Club, of Portland. From the first entry until the end there have been written 220 names. While the addresses ire for the most part from Oregon and Washington, there are many from all parts of the world. The first entry was made by Daniel W. Bass, of Seattle, who with O. C. Yocum. Thomas A. Marquam, N. W. Gorman. E. D. Devert, B. C. Towne and W. G. Steel, made the ascent on July 14, 1SS9. and left the record book, on the fly leaf .of which were written directions to all climbers to subscribe their names and experiences therein. The book was en closed in a copper casket and firmly an chored by Mr. Bass to a hole drilled in the rock. It is strange to note that O. C. Yocum registers from East Portland. Was it only so few years ago that the eastern side of the Willamette was com monly known as East Portland? Nine days later came Judge McBride, ' who tells posterity over his signature that George Merrill was with him, and also C. Fred Caples. Mr. Merrill records his age as 63 and wants to know if there be an older whp has ever ascended the mountain. Judge McBride notes that Mount Rainier was in sight, and some later comer from Tacoma asks why he didn't use the correct name. The entries are not in order as to dates, and the next jumps to July 31, J 891. Oh, ladies, the blunders of youth. Her'e are set down that all the world may see that Miss Lucy A. Williams was 16 years old and Miss Georgie McBrido Giltner was 17 years of age away back in that prehistoric day in 'ninety-one. They were the very youngest of their sex who had up to that time made the aactui. vSPROUTED IS GROTVNl ,'.31 mm azrsrj3sz& jzeaz3 Mr. J. Buckley, a representative' of that company, who has been over our cotton states and claims to know all about Amer ican cotton. He tells me that the cotton her, grown from our seed, is su perior to the same cotton grown in Amer ica, and that it is as good as any upland cottnn that we produce. The present out put of the gins is only about four tons per day, but this will be increased. This company has also an hydraulic bal ing press, made by John Shaw & Sons of Manchester, and it proposes to install other machinery. At present it is difficult to land heavy freight here. Until the Uganda railway was completed everything was brought in by black porters. As all was carried upon the bead, no piece weighing more than 60 or 70 pounds could be carried on the long journey of 800 miles up from the sea roast. In this hydraulic press there is one cylinder which weighs two and one-half tons, and it .almost broke down the boat by which it was carried across I,ake Victoria. The nearest landing place on that lake is several miles from Kampala, and tho cylinder was dragged inland by a traction engine. This same company has recently pur chased a location under Ripon Falls, at the head of Napoleon Gulf, where the Nile flows out of Lake Victoria. The falls are such that they will furnish a big electric power, and it is the intention to build ginning mills and" cotton fac tories there which will be run by the Nile at its source. A Modern Cotton Gin in Africa. While I was in Omdurman, in the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan, which lies on the Nile .1500 miles or so north of here, I saw half-naked negro women sitting flat on the ground taking the seeds out of the cotton with little gins run by hand. The gins were like clothes wringers.. The lint passed through rolls not bigger around than a broomstick, and the work went on as slowly as in the United States before Eli Whitney invented his gin. The gin ning establishment here has as up-to-date machinery as any in our Southern states. It is a building of sun-dried brick cover ing perhaps one-eighth of an acre. It is of two stories, and the gins are on the second floor, so arranged that the cotton can be wheeled in and the lint dropped down below. Bight near the ginning rooms are the warehouses. These are now five in num ber. They are 75 feet long and 30 feet wide, and have on hand about 2.000.000 pounds of seed cotton ready for ginning. All this has come in within the past few months, and the cotton is now arriving by the hundreds of bags every day. AH Brought in on the Head. While at the factory I saw scores of natives trotting along with great bags of cotton on their heads, and wherever I go I pass men bringing in cotton. . The stuff is still in the seed. It is put up In banana bark and bound over and over with be nana fibers so that it canncjj fall out dur ing the carrying. Each bale weighs about 70 pounds, and this is a good load for a native. The men who bring it in are usually dressed in bark cloth, but some No less a hand than that of Edmund C. Giltner, how secretary of the Chamber of Commerce, made the" record1, and he modestly gives his own age as 24. He states that there was a calm on the mountain top no wind stirring. It is plain that he was not then connected with Portland publicity. Of the party were Charles E. Runyon and Lorlng K. Adams. Mr. Giltner writes: "I took a picture with my new Kodak." They seem to have had a mania for writing their ages, did the women who made the ascent of St. Helens. On Au gust 2, 1S91, Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Embody were upon the mountain. Mr. Embody writes. "I will have to cut this short, as Mrs. Embody's feet are almost frozen, but she says she'll stay there until I gat her age in, which is 23, and not a day or an hour more." It's been quite a little while since August of 1891 more than a few snows have fallen on Helen's peak. Just one day before the visit of the Em body's, D. C. Greenwalt, of Vancouver, raised the Stars and Stripes and properly recorded the event. The record again jumps as one turns the pages to August 9, 1894, when there is written: "I, Rev. W. A. M. Breck, of San Francismo, supposed to be the first clergyman on this mountain, being a minister .of the Protestant Episcopal Church." Some Irreverent wag with nothing of the fear of the Lord in his heart, wrote underneath, "Yes, and I saw him catch fish on a Sunday." The thoughtful reader wonders if this be true or if it be but an unveracious slander of a worthy man. In August, 1896, George S. Allen; C. M. Allen, Wirt Durgan and Charles McCaf ferty declared and wrote it for all to see that "St. Helens is a h of a fine moun tain." They had with them a dog, and since it is a dozen years ago, it is to be supposed that that adventurous canine Is "one with destiny." George M. McBride of Oregon City has left the record of an frnnrst jruuu Ua tells of having found a THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, X)H of them wear Americanl, or American cotton sheeting, which is popular here in Uganda. When the cotton arrives at the ware houses it is weighed, an the man Is paid In rupees, or in strings of cowry shells, about 2 cents a pound. This amount of 2 cents constitutes his reward for plant ing and harvesting the crop, in addition to bringing it for miles on his head to the factory. I am told the pay is con sidered small even among the natives, who work for wages as low as a dollar a month, and that there will have -to be a raise in the price, or but little more will be planted. It is also whispered that the chiefs are getting a rake-off from the Uganda Company, Limited', and that for this reason they are enforcing the natives to sow cotton. So far tho people have but little idea of intensive cultivation of any kind, and the cotton grown is the result of nature rather than work. Just outside these warehouses I took a snapshot at a score or so of natives who had just sold their cotton. Each had a lot of cowry shells in his hands, and they were chatting and planning what they would buy with their money at the Hindoo stores of Kampala. I am told that as soon as the price is increased, the number of natives plant ing cotton will rapidly grow. The amount sold last year was five or six times that of the year before, and 12 times as much was raised in 1905 as in 1904. All the cotton so far grown is from American seed, the wild cot ton having a coarse fiber with many large seeds in each boll. Egyptian cotton is now being tried, but so far it has not proved to be as suit able to this climate and soil as the American upland. The Government itself is aiding in the movement by distributing seeds. It has also put in hand gins in different parts of the country and baling presses for pub lic use. While at this factory I went through the mud houses which have been erected for the men, and more espe cially for the Hindoo clerks con nected with the business. They are rude one-story affairs and do not com pare In comfort with the homes of our factory people of the South. Just outside the ginning establishment a score of natives were making bricks. The clay looked to me as though it came from the hills of the white ants. It lay in a pile on the ground and men and women, dressed in bark cloth, squatted about it pounding the clods into dust with clubs. In a pool nearby another gang of natives were mixing the dust solid silver pocket flask which, alas, was empty. Also a pair of spectacles. Whether the owner has ever gotten his flask again no man now knows. It might be thought that Mr. McBride might have chosen a better medium for his advertising. Judge Thomas A. McBride Was pn the peak again in 1S91 for the ninth time, having made his firBt ascent in '72. E. M. Rands, Mrs. Holman and D. C. Telford were with him. The judge's barometer made the height 12,410 feet. About this date,' C. J. Evlnger made the ascent. From the record it is possible to estimate Mr. Evinger's age at 49 years plus or minus. A. W. Hewett and A. R. Cook made fcn entry on August 9, 1S91, Mr. Cook writing that he was "most damnably and most devilishly tired." From which one might gather that Mr. Cook was at least a little weary. E. C. Giltner was there on the same date again with his little kodak, and exactly three years later to a day, made the ascent again with his camera, as carefully recorded. On this last trip he was evidently the pilot for a bevy of young ladies, but sadly makes entry tiiat Miss Treat alone finished the climb. Miss Butler, Miss Caples and Mrs. Yearguim having fallen by the wayside. In this entry neither his age nor the ages of any with him have been recorded.- On August 12. 1892, A. R. Canfleld, from Idaho, wishes for just one of the peaches that grow in his orchard at Lewiston, and so plaintively does he phrase hlr wish that he seems plainly a very thirsty Indi vidual. W. H. Imus, who in 1894 was the editor of the -Kalama Bulletin, leaves an entry for all posterity to read. He writes: "I am the only man with a cork leg that ever ascended this mountain." It is more than likely that this record will stand for many a long day. A contingent of our German fellow-citizens visited the peak in August, '89. O. B. Aagaard was one of the party and there celebrated his twenty fourth birthday. Many are the yester days since then and the birthdays are not ietf. O. Ehlbeck was Mr. Aagaard's close .AMERICAN SEE AT THE SOlCZSCEOFxTHE 1 I and water together making the mud out of which the bricks are molded. The men were naked almost to the waist, and they tramped up and down in the mud to knead it for the bricks. Africa as a Cotton Continent. The experiments going on as to cotton here are representative of others now be ing tried in the various parts of Africa. I have already written of the cotton pos sibilities of the Sudan. They are enor mous, and the cotton now being raised about Khartum is equal in quality to the best of that produced on the delta of the Nile. In British East Africa the author ities are attempting to raise cotton, and several successful plantations have been set out in South Africa. I understand that the Germans are doing considerable in the same line, not only between here and Lake Tanganyika, but also along that coast in the vicinity of Zanzibar, and that they are already producing lu the neighborhood of a thousand bales of lint per year. They have raised as much as flOO bales in a year on their little planta tions In Togoland, on the Gulf of Guinea, and they have sown cotton In the Kam crun and in Southwest Africa. The Italians are attempting the same in Eritrea, the little strip of territory which they own along the Red Sea. So far their success has been small. As to the French, they have done prac tically nothing in cotton in Africa as yet. The Belgians are making experiments throughout the Congo Valley, where they have plantations managed by Americans from Texas. They are using American seed, and the cotton grown is of excellent quality. The British have an organization known as the British Cotton-Growing Asocia tion, which is backing many of the ex periments in the English colonies. That organization has a capital of $1,000,000. and its plantations here and there are now producing something like a half mil lion dollars' worth of cotton a year. Some of its best work is being done in West Africa, and especially in Nigeria. There are als,o ginning establishments at La gos, which take care of the cotton grown near the coast. I understand that there are 30,000 or 40.000 acres there in a fairly good state of cultivation. Plants Which Produce Silk. It seems like a fairy story when I say that there are plants out here in Africa which produce fibers which may possibly be made into silk as fine as any spun by the silkworm. I am told that this is the case. My informant is Mr. R. T. Paske Smith, the assistant collector at Kampala, friend in those days, for do not they thus write themselves? The "Q. Z." party made the highest point In 1892. It Is written that they ar rived there only by the mercy of God, or, as one of the party puts it, "God being our guide." Mountaineers will wonder if this were not one of Indian Louie's off days. In 1894 Frank C. Perry wrote, "I was here before, 20 years and 14 days ago, in 1872. Since then this grand o.d mountain has changed wonderfully In shape and base." No. Mr. Perry, the mountain did not change. In 20 years and 14 days men change much. One bright day In August, 1S94, Miss Bessie Kelly, only 10 years of age, Is re corded as being the very youngest girl to make the ascent, thus wresting the laurel from Miss Williams. On this date Mr. Merrill was again on tho peak at the ripe age of 68. We will not be ready to climb St. Helens when we have numbered oft so many years. A. D. Lee searched carefully through the register in August. 1892, and found that th,ree of his friends, J. Gerow, Dan Gerow and P. Weir, who had told him tales of having made the great ascent were prevaricators (though he puts it in finitely more strongly), had never been on the mountain. Perhaps it was the loss of confidence in his friends that disgusted Mr. Lee, for he writes, "I have enough of this snowy old hill. When it wants me next time It will have to come and get me." On August 27, 1905, Joseph Brothers and D-ick Sutton were mighty cold and hungry, and said as much. From the entry it would not be safe to wager that either of them have ever been on Helen since. H. C. Hoffman and party made the climb in 1907. He writes: "We started as members of the Goat Club, but I, here and now, for one, en ter myself as a charter member In the Association of Asses, unlimited." An other of the same party who was then on the road to Klondike, writes that on his return he'll build a walking side walk to the peak. The sidewalk is not yet builded. Can it be that the writer of these 10-year-old lines has not yet returned? , The 18-year-old quartet made the as cent on August 10, 1891. In true 18-year-old fashion their names are all set down plainly and carefully for admir APRIL 10, 1908. 1 v-r;" .7", 77 1 'tim-myr. m. ' ft . v-.1-y 3 ijss $ sTva yS& 2ZOZ7J&'$ JSHJZS' 7zrs:s 0ZZ jTJZZYJZ who was formerly stationed away off In the interior of Uganda. He says that he found there a plant which he thinks might be used for silk manufacture. Said he: '"I saw many of these plants growing wild. They reach a height of five or six feet, and bear a fruit shaped like the cotton boll, but much larger. I should say that the average fruit is as big around as a man's fist. These bolls have a silky fiber three or four inches long. It looks somewhat like cotton, but it Is far more soft, fleecy and glossy. The fiber is wrapped around the seeds. During my stay there I gathered a lot of the wild 6eeds and picked off the lint. I then sowed them in about half an acre of well prepared ground. They grew rapidly without further cultivation, and when they matured I .collected a little bag of the silk lint in the seed and sent it on to the authorities at Entebbe. Shortly af ter that I took sick with a fever and it was some months before I recovered. I ing ages to read and ponder over. "George Burnside Story, W. Carl iHaz eltlne. Thomas A. Burnside and Otis F. Akin." He who wrote the record mod estly placed himself last. They got wet not rain or fog. but from "moisture in the atmosphere." A dog was with them "Antler" was hiB name, or was it her name? The record docs not say. They left mementos in the copper box among them some hair from the dog. Louis B. Akin poetically phrases his sad state under date of August, in 1892. "The Indian wears his moccasin, The white man wears his gaiter; I have no shoes left on my feet, I need an elevator." Lulu M. Otnell Carson, on the line Just underneath, and dated September, 1896, writes: "I'm very tired, and I don't oare who knows it." It's barely possible that her reference was to the verse, C. C. Shafford climbed the mountain in July of 1898. Messrs. Frazler, Mc Alister and Ansley were of the party. Mr. Frazler makes plain his opinion that Mount Helens is a pretty nice thing to stay In Portland and look at, but that he has had all he wants of it in personal contact, while F. L. Bar ber, on the same page, thanks the blessed fates that "Jim," his bulldog, has stood the trip well. Now comes the record of the moun tain having defeated the attempt of Miss Aurora Eland to scale its heights In September. 1906. Mrs. George Beck, Miss Ella Hobart, Mrs. Gaither and Miss Florence Claud were more suc cessful. We have no way of knowing what became of Miss Eland, though 'tis safe to presume that she is not out there on the cold mountain yet. Now comes the last entry of all. Claud B. Farley and C. F. Clark wrote: "We realize the greatness of God as we stand here and look over the great mountains, and upon our bended knees give thanks unto him that hath given us strength to reach this place." The years have gone and it Is to be hoped that Mr. Clark and Mr. Farley can still give thanks that they have been brought to the places that they now are. ( . There are now in this country 4 societies of the National city Evangelization Union, their annual expenditures being upward of BAM then tried to find what became of my silk fiber, but the authorities at Entebbe could not Inform me. I spoke of the plant to Archdeacon Walker, tho head of the English Church Mission Society of Uganda. He said he knew it well and agreed with me that it might be valua ble. I cleaned some of the fiber and stuffed a sofa pllow. It was as soft as down." "What is the name of this fiber, Mr. Pnske-Smith?" I asked. "I do not know what it is called bo tanically or that it is mentioned in any botany. The natives call It Mfumbo." More About Bark Cloth. And this leads me to write again about the wonderful bark cloth which is pro duced by almost every native family and which until recently formed about the only clothing worn by the million-odd peo ple of the kingdom of Uganda. It is used in other countries as well and the natives An Unappreciated Beast THE increase in the number of mules in use on farms and in cities throughout the Eastern .and Middle States is more noticeable every year. This useful creature has been employed as a draught animal in the South and West ever since the settlement of that territory, and the only wonder is that it has takn so long to demonstrate its utility to other sections. A mule is a valuable asset on a farm or a gentle man's country place. In place of the odd work-horse, kept for. the cart, the hay-rake, the plow, the mowing ma chine or the lawn-mower, the mule is etrongly recommended by many per sons. The points of difference between the mule and the horse In conformation are mainly larger, thicker head, longer ears and smaller hoofs, larger girth, shorter legs and longer body in the mule. The relative disposition of the bones and their angles are the same as in the horse. The mule is tougher and hardier than the horse, is less subject to disease or to inflammation from slight injuries, and usually yields more readily to treat ment. It has been noticed that the mule is nearly exempt from some of the common diseases of the horse, espe cially from colds and the many compli cations arising therefrom. Every indication that the mule has equal intelligence with that of the horse has often been demonstrated. Every one who has ever attended a circus performance has been interested and amused at the antics of the trick mules. Not only' are they possessed of intelli gence, but their evident enjoyment, as shown by their eyes, the motion of their ears and the sportive whisking of their tails, proves conclusively that they enter Into the spirit of the occasion, and it requires no great stretch of im agination to conclude that their sleek, round bodies shake with laughter. It has long: been the custom to trim of German East Africa ratee much of it. There are several varieties of trees here which produce it, the favorite being a fig tree which grows to a height of from 30 to 50 feet, and from which bark strips can be taken which average six feet in width and ten feet In length. The fibers of this bark are Interwoven like cloth. It is wonderfully strong and when pounded and treated by the natives Is almost as soft as velvet. It Is eewn into durable clothing. Some of this cloth was shipped to New York about a year ago, but so far no record of Its final disposition has been received. The amount sent was 2GO0 sheets, a similar shipment being made at the same time to London. Tho bark would make a very fine paper if it were ground, but whether it can be used as a weaving material for cloth remains to be seen. At present the only demand for it Is among the natives. The Forests of Uganda. I have just had a talk with Pr. Christy, an Englishman, who has a large concession of woodland running along the Nile just below where that great river flows out of Lake Victoria. The tract embraces about 150 square miles, and it is so situated that the timber could be thrown into tho river and floated down to Khartoum, were it not for certain falls of the Nile be tween NImuli and Gondokora. As it is, the chief market will probably be Brit ish East Africa and the other countries reached by way of the Uganda Railway. Said Dr. Christy: "Our forests "are magnificent. We have mahogany trees 150 feet high, and some of them four and fivo feet in diameter. They are perfectly straight, running up to a great distance without a branch. Wo have a species of wood that resembles teak, and we have niU'h hard wood, some of which will almost resist the blows of an ax. We expect to do a great deal with that wood, be cause it resists the attacks of the white ants, and we can therefore sell it for railroad ties. We have now orders for 300,000 ties, and we have three differ ent varieties of antproof wood from which we can supply them." Rubber in Vganda. "How about your rubber possibilities. Dr. Christy?" I asked. "We have rubber vines and rubber trees, and some of the latter are 100 feet high, with a large girth. They run from that size down to sprouts. We have about 2.000,000 rubber trees in our concession. They rango in diameter from three inches to three or four feet. The most of them are ready for tap ping, and we shall exploit that part of our concession first. We shall work carefully, delaying the timber export until we have our rubber industry thoroughly established, as we fear that the cutting down of the other trees may break the rubber trees. "Our plan now is to cut out the under brush and map the forest, so that each part of it can be easily cared for. We already have 900 men at work, and shall have double that numhrr within a few weeks. We expect to build villages on tlia estate and to train our own workmen. We have already brought expert rubber gatherers from Ceylon to show the na tives how to tap the rubber trees without Injuring them. If they are properly han dled they will continue to yield rubber year after year for their full life of about 40 years. A tree is ready for tapping at about five years of age, so that we ex pect to get an income for 35 years out of each young tree. In a short time our property will be a great rubber farm yielding a vast crop every year." Campola, Uganda. the hair on the tails of mules from the croup to about 10 or 12 inches from the ends. The ends are then squared and the "paint brush," or "shave tail" ap pears in all its beauty. This custom is not, however, always followed. The natural tail, as well as the mane. Is thinner and the tail Is more switch-like than that of the horse, nor are either as long. The mane is often trimmed or "hogged" and the forelock removed. Country Life In America. The Spell of the Yukon. ROBERT W. SERVICE. There's a cry from out the loneliness oh, honey, listen! Do you heart it, do you fear it, you're a holding of me so! You're a sohbing- in your sleep, dear, and your lashea, how they glisten Do ou hear the Little Voices all a-begging me to go? All a-besslng- me to leave you. Tay and night they're pleading, praying. On the north wind, on the west wind, from the peak and from the plain; Night and day they never leave me do you know' what they are saying? "He was ours before you got him, and we want him once again." Yes, they're wanting me. they're haunting me, the awful lonely places: They're whining and they're whimpering as If each had a soul; They're calling from tho wilderness, the vast and godlike spaces. The stark and sullen solitudes that senti nel the Pole. They miss my little campflrcs, ever brightly, bravely gleaming In the womb of desolation, where was never man beforft; As comradeless I sought them, lion-hearted, loving, dreaming. And they hailed me as a comrade, and they loved me evermore. And now they're all a-crylng. and it's no use me denying; The spell of them Is on me and I'm help let's as a child; My heart is aching, aching, but I hear them, sleeping, waking. It's the I.ure of Little Voices, it's th jnsnrtsf of the Wild! . X