The Sunday Oregonian., April 19, 1908, Magazine Section, Page 7, Image 53

THE "SUNDAY OKEGOMAX, PORTLAND. APRIL 19, 1908.
7
m
PEAOTT
Long Lines Distinguish Easter Frocks
UN'y UKSTTONA BLY the most strik
ing feature of the Buster frock will
be its long, straight lines. You'll
find them in the weave, the pattern, the
cut' and the trimming. While the Amer
ican woman declines to accept for gen
eral usage the new sheath skirt with its
clinging, flat drapery over the hips, she
has compromised and adopted the modi
fied Empire gown with its short -waisted
back if not front. This means that a
gown which is a cross between the Greek
drapery and true Kmpire effect will be
used, while the princess is more popu
lar than ever.
In the misses' gown shown this week
will be seen one of the best mode3 for
the youthful and middle-aged figure
alike. It is the princess frock with deep
square yoke ajtd shaped panel in front
and shortened waistline in the back. It
also shows the influence of striped
weavC3 in giving height and an excellent
method of applying self-trimming or
braid.
Both of the blouses, the one combined
with the skirt and the independent draw
ing, show up-to-dato methods of apply
ing trimming, the use of fringe and tas
sels and most especially - the elaborate
application of trimming on the backs of
bodices. This is one distinctive feature
of the Easter frock. Few plain or even
tucked backs are seen. Strips of em
broidery, interspersed with lace, make
the back almost as elaborato as the front
of the blouse.
No woman this Spring can afford to
he without at least one princess" frock,
with its clinging skirt, its square deep
yoke or chemisette of lace and its over
blouse of gorgeous embroidery or silk
with braiding.
Other striking features of the Easter
parade will be the large number of loose
coats, the enormous quantity of flowers
employed on hats, while floral designs
will riile in vestings, trimmings and bor
der designs, and parasols,' if the weather
be balmy, will be abloom with all sorts
of floral patterns.
This is the greatest silk season in
years, and voile, which led all fabrics
iast year, has given place to silky weaves.
The smartest silk for suits is a rough
weave known as mirage, because it has
the misty, wa,tery look that a mirage
possesses. The correct method of making
tip this silk is in a two-piece costume,
a princess gown with deep yoke of lace
or tucked net, strapped with bias bands
of the silk braided with silk soutache,
which also appears around the hem of
the skirt; and a loose jacket. Madame
Butterfly or Louis shape, heavily braided.
Next to the rough silk in popularity
come satin-finished messalines and fou
lards, but neither of these can be made
Into suits. They make beautiful prin
cess or Empire costumes with which is
worn a harmonious jacket, preferably a
loose one in either plain silk or lace.
These lace coats can be bought ready
made in a wide range of laces, coarse
and fine, light and heavy. They are of
fered in both black and white, the former
being much better for general wear. Also
there are beautiful jackets in soft silk,
heavily braided. A stunning combination
shows a black and white foulard with
tucker and undersleeves of princess lace,
a Jacket of black chantilly made over
white silk, and a picture hat of white
straw trimmed with black tips and velvet
ribbon.
Many of these new silks have borders
In conventional or floral designs, but the
skillful home dressmaker can simulate
the woven border with applied trimming
or with folds of contrasting silk.
All the smartest jackets have vests or
trimmings so applied as to suggest the
vest, and these are very gay, made of
wonderful pompadour flowers and the
ever-popular filet net in black, white or
colors, embroidered in flowers of the most
brilliant hues.
Copenhagen blue leads in colorings, and
is becoming very scarce. It is a trifle
more grey than gendarme or peacock
blue, but less faded in hue than the once
famous Alice-blue. It combines particu
larly well with golden brown, tan, etc
The lightweight herringbone weaves in
Copenhagen blue are especially, effective,
one of the stripes being plain and the
other satin finished. A Spring suit of
this worn with a big straw hat in natu
ral or rich tan color, trimmed with blue
Some Restful
WINTER winds and snows are
things of the past, and with
them have disappeared thick-soled
walking boots, arctics and heavy hosi
ery. We must now prepare fof the
dainty footwear worn with Easter
frocks and fetching Spring toggery.
In the care of the feet, as with other
parts of the body, it is the simple home
remedy applied every day not spasmodically-
that counts for a sure cure
in the long run.
A very common fault in caring for
.the feet is cutting the toenails off too
short. Nails are grown on the toes
as they are on the fingers for the pur
pose of protection. They should not
be cut down at the' side of the toe, but
straight across. The feet are entitled
to muclj better care than they general
ly get. They should be bathed every
day in lukewarm water, and once a
week should be well soaked in a foot
tub of hot water, into which has been
thrown a piece of common washing
soda the size of a small egg. This
tends to keep the pores open, the skin
soft, and" will help to draw out any
inflammation.
Kvery morning dust the feet with the
following powder, just before you put
on your stockings:
Pulverized alum. 5 grams: napthol,
G grams; borax, 10 grams; starch, 10
grams; salicylic acid, 3 grams: violet
talcum powder, 60 grams. This pow
der is very healing and tends to over
come any excessive perspiration.
Callous spots are often painful, and
many people make the grave mistake
of thinking they a're corns, and cut
ting them unmercifully with a dull
razor. Try friction first. Soak your
feet in tho soda water mentioned
above, then rub the callous spots vig
orously with a piece of pumice stone.
Much of the callous will come away.
.In more obstinate cases, soak a piece
of absorbent cotton in crude petro
leum and bind on the callous over
night. In the morning rub with the
pumice stone.
In cases of painful corns and bun
ions a more drastic treatment is ne
cessary. Treatments for both corns
and bunions have been frequently
published in these columns, but to any
of my readers who have escaped see
ing these lotions, and who will send
nie stamped and self-addressed en
velope. I shall bo glad to send the
formulas. . .
Frequently changing tho shoes and
stockings will keep the feet in good
vMvet ribbon and flowers or plumes, is
the smartest sort of makeup.
For very dressy wear, with any cos
tume which is not inharmonious, chamois
colored gloves and Oxford ties are worn.
The ties show real chamois skin for the
vamps and black patent leather uppers.
PRINCESS GOWJI WITH PASEL FRONT, SHIRTWAIST EFFECT IX BACK
The buckles may be of chamois skin or
the black leather. The gloves are of
either chamois or undressed, suede kid.
Such ties will be worn at receptions, in
carriages, etc., but they are not suited for
ordinary street wear, though shoemen say
they clean amazingly well.
Remedies for
condition. There is no economy in one
pair of shoes. When you come in from
a long, tiresome trip, take oft your
stiff boots and put on a pair of soft
slippers. If possible, change the stock
ings as well. For feet that are, in
clined to swell from long standing or
other causes, great benefit will be
found in a very hot foot-bath into
which has been thrown, two table
spoons of the following powder: 1
ounce of alum; 2 ounces of rock salt;
2 ounces of borax.
Let the feet remain in this bath un
til the water is quite cool, then dry
them and put on soft, low slippers. A
very good counter effect of long
standing is to sit in a high chair so
that the toes will just touch the floor,
and occasionaly stretch the feet out
with considerable pressure.
Economy and
GIVEN a cheap piece of meat, a.
little soup stock, a few vegeta
blesand a casserole and your
answer will be a dinner dish which
your husband will compare favorably
to the best offerings in his favorite
restaurant.
The casserole should be recognized
as first aid to the thrifty housewife.
It puts the roasting pan to shame, and
makes stew-pans a djug on the kitchen
shelves. And it is not half so expen
sive as the average housewife im
agines, simply because she finds on a
fashionable menu the term "en cas
serole.' A casserole is nothing more than a
round, squat but rather deep earthen
dish with a thick, equally squat handle
on one side. Dish and tight-fitting
cover are of the same ware, generally
a dull, reddish brown, glazed within,
rough without. They come also in fan
cy German wear, white inside and
brown outside. Japanese casseroles
are much more fanciful and dress the
table prettily, but are not more useful
in the kitchen.
The round casserole is used for
braising or cooking ordinary cheap
cuts of meat with potatoes 'and veg
etables. Those who desire to use
them for large roasts, like loin of
pork or leg if lamb, must buy the long,
round shape, holding a quart or more,
they cost 75 cents, cover and all. A
dollar buys a larger one, suitable for
a big family dinner.
The economical way to use a cas
The very latest neckwears is so large
as to suggest the Elizabethan ruff. The
very latest ties for dressy wear, to re
place the jabot, is of finest silk mull or
mousseline, fully eight inches wide, with
deeply embroidered ends, and it is tied in
four loops and two wide, spreading ends.
.
so arranged as to suggest a waterfall un
der the chin. The small bow is now used
only with embroidered linen collar with
tailored shirtwaists. Th big bow, the
enormous neckpiece, is the thing with
the new Spring jacket.
MARY DEAN.
the Tired Feet
Many women are troubled with a
dry, scaly skin on their feet. In such
cases there is no better cure than that
simplest' of home renfbdies just plain
vaseline. This should be massaged
into the feet every night before retir
ing. During this treatment use old
bed linen, for the grease makes rather
a bad stain on the sheets at times. A
well-known chiropodist in a large city
tells me that sunning the feet is a
species of "cure-all." She advises
women to sit in the sunlight in their
bedroom with their feet bare, allowing
the sun and air to get to them. She
said to me: "Suppose your face never
came in contact with sunlight and pure
air how would it look, and how would
it feci?" Her argument was good, and
I think it worth trying,
KATHERINE MORTON.
the Casserole
serole is to bank your fire, If you use
coal, and place the casserole contain
ing meat and vegetables in a moderate
oven for four hours. If you use-a gas
range, have only one burner lighted
and that turned low, Cooking en cas
serole combines the processes of roast
ing and steaming. Not an iota of the
savor or juices is lost in -the process.
Lamb en casserole Buy three good
sized slices of steak from the leg.
Have a. fryingpn piping hot, and in
this sear the meat without burning it.
This is to -prevent the escape of the
jilices. Brush the meat over with
melted butter (a small paint brush is
good for this purpose) and sprinkle
with pepper and salt. Pt the meat
into the casserole and let it bake un
covered in a brisk oven about 15 min
utes. While this is being done, strain
two cups of canned- tomatoes into a
stew-pan, and thicken with two table
spoons of flour rubbed with an equal
amount of butter. Cut raw potatoes
in cubes half an inch large and allow
enough to fill a coffee cup. Have a
couple of carrots cooked until tender
and cut these in thin strips, enough
to fill a cup three-quarters full. Now
pour the tomato sauce over the lamb
in the casserole dish, lay around it a
circle of the diced potatoes, then the
strips of carret, a few thin slices of
onion, and if you have them, a few
cold string beans. Peas may be sub
stituted for the beans. Cover the cas
serole tightly with its own earthen
ware cover and se,t in the oven until
the meat is .tender, which will be
about three hours. Veal may be sub
stituted for the lamb", cut either in
steaks or in large cubes about three
inches in size.
Mixed meat in casserole Stew to
gether one cup of soup stock and one
of tomatoes. Strain through a coarse
sieve and thicken with a tablespoon
of flour and the same of butter rubbed
smooth. Cut into good-sized strips
one pound of raw beef, one of veal and
one of fresh lean pork. Roll these in
flour. Melt in a skillet butter the size
of an egg and in this brown lightly a
good-sized onion . sliced thin. Turn in
GOWN IN COPENHAGEN BLIE, WITH A BORDER OF DEEPER SHADE
the pieces of meat and brown them.
When well colored, lay these in the
casserole dish, surround them with a
border of diced string beans or peas,
pour over them the tomato sauce, cook
as described above until the meat is
tender, and you have a dinner dish
combining meat and vegetables with
very little trouble. When ready to
serve, add a small glass of white wine
and garnish with small pickles.
Beef en casserole Wipe and trim
neatly a good-sized piece of the rump
or round without bone. Sear until
brown in a hot frying pan without al
lowing it to burn. In the bottom of
your casserole dish build a nest of
diced potatoes, sliced onions, stripped
carrot, turnips cut in small balls and
any cold peas or Deans you may have
on hand. If .fond of herbs, scatter
through this a little finely-powdered
mixed herbs, season with pepper and
salt. On this nest lay your seared
meat. In a separate pan. mix a large
cup of stock or boiling water with one
of tomatoes, stew until thoroughly
mixed, strain and thicken with a table
spoon of lour and butter rubbed
smooth, pour over your meat and veg
etables. Cover with the earthenware
Ud and set in a moderate oven to cook
for four hours.
AH casserole preparations are served
from the dish in which they are
cooked.- This is set on a large plate
or platter and brought to the table,
cover and all. No napkin or decoration
of any sort is wrapped around the dish.
A Mean Man's Question.
Chicago Record-Herald.
"He always takes off his hat when he is
in an elevator with a lady."
"Always"? Doesn't he ever .get in one
with his wife?"
Good Form
WEDDING invitations are generally
received about two weeks before
the date set for the ceremony.
Whether they require a reply depends
entirely upon the wording of the invita
tion. If you have been invited to a church
ceremony only, no reply, either regrets
or acceptance. Is demanded. If. in addi
tion to the invitation for the church, you
receive a card announcing that the wed
ding breakfast will be served either at
the home of the bride's parents or at
some hotel or fashionable restaurant, this
means that you are invited to be. one of
the wedding breakfast party, and then
your acceptance or regrets must be. sent
immediately. If it is to be a large home
wedding, with a buffet breakfast to fol
low, no acknowledgement is necessary:
but if it is a more exclusive affair, with
a limited number of guests to sit down
to the breakfast. -quite generally the let
ters "R. S. V. P." or the phrase. "The
favor of a reply Is requested" will ap
pear in one corner of the card or invita
tion, in which case a prompt reply is
obligatory.
Also, if the wedding is to take place
at the country home of the bride or in
the suburbs, and a special train or car Is
chartered for guests, mention of which is
made on the invitation, then you must
either send regrets or acceptance, so
your hosts will know what accommoda
tions to provide.
Wedding gifts are sent to the bride
any time after the invitations ars re
ceived, up to the very day of the wed
ding. All silver, linen, etc., intended for
presents, whether thess come from friends
of the bride or the groom, must be
marked with the bride's maiden initial
or monoBram. No gifts are sent to the
groom, even by his personal friends.
When the groom's parents give the
young coup'le a home or furniture or sil
ver or a check, it is given to them joint
ly, not to the groom alone.
If no acknowledgement of the wedding
invitation is required, as described above,
your presence at the function Is sufficient
to show your appreciation of the invita
tion. If you cannot attend, either post in
at the Easter Wedding
ample time or send by hand on the day
of the ceremony two of your calling cards
In a single envelope addressed to the pa
rents of the bride, or the married sister
and her husband, in whose name the in
vitations are sent out.
If tho wedding is private and announce-
AND EMBROIDERED OV ER-BI.Ol SE.
ment cards are sent out afterward, you
acknowledge these by posting to the new
ly ma.rried couple your own calling card
with "best wishes" or "hearty congratu
lations" written thereon.
The correct dress of the male guest
at a noon or afternoon wedding is black
frock coat, striped trousers, fancy or
white waistcoat, gray suede gloves, silk
puff tie and high hat. White gloves
are never worn by a man until after
nightfall. Full evening clothes must be
worn to an evening wedding.
Women guests wear to either a church
or house wedding by day an elaborate
reception gown, generally velvet, silk or
exquisite cloth, never anything severely
tailored. White gloves and fine shoes
must also be worn.
A guest at a church wedding never
leaves his or her seat until the wedding
party has passed out. At a house wed
ding, guests do not hurry forward to con
gratulate the newly-wedded couple until
members of the family and relatives have
done so.
When the wedding ceremony at the
church is followed by a reception at the
house, guests go directly from the church
to the house, where all is presumably in
readiness for their arrival. Only suffi
cient time is allowed for the bridal ptrty
to fall in line.
Men guests leave their hats, sticks and
gloves in the hall before entering the
drawing-room. Women lay aside wraps,
but retain hats and gloves.
The guests fall into line In passing the
bridal party. . You congratulate the groom
and wish the bride happiness. As the
bride's mother is the hostess on this oc
casion, each guest should seek her out
for a word of appreciation before depart
ing. Friends of the groom who do not
know the bride's family may ask for an
introduction.
At the usual wedding reception, it is
not necessary to remain long. After the
bride and groom have been congratulated,
the bride's mother has been seen, a lew
friends chatted with, and a visit has
been made to the dininsr-room where the
buffet . breakfast is served by waiters,
the guest is free to depart.
When a formal weddlnz breakfast is
served and guests are seated with the
bridal party at a central table, then no
guest will leave inside of 15 minutes after
the party has left the dining-room.
Usually, at a .convenient point near the
door, wedding cake in small wiiite boxes
is arranged for distribution. There is
nothing ruder than for a guest to pick up
several of these boxes as souvenirs for
friends not Invited to the function.
The wedding guest must call on the
bride and groom directly on the latter's
return from the honeymoon, usually on
dates set by the newly married couple on
their joint cards. And it is only com
mon courtesy to entertain the newly
married couple, within a reasonable time,
if you accepted the invitation to their
wedding. PRUDENCE. STAXD1SH.
Parasols More Gor
geousThan Ever
IN OTHER seasons we have had gor
geous parasols, bizarre parasols, sporty
parasols and delicate Dresden parasols.
We have run the gamut of La Tosca han
dles, lace covers and hand-embroidery
on parasols, but this year is what might
be termed a riotous season in parasols.
One parasol for the . Summer wardrobe
is simply a drop in the bucket. The
Summer girl of any pretensions what
ever buys parasols, like girdles, to harr
mnnizc with every gown of importance.
f For instance, with her tailor6d linen
costume she will carry either a lingerie
parasol of linen, severely embroidered
with dots and scallops, or she will have
a regular St. Patrick's day green para
sol In silk, which incidentally she may
carry with her natural-colored pongeo
frock. This green parasol, an accepted
and necessary feature of every Summer
wardrobe, irrespective of complexion or
coloring, may be plain or fancy. A very
good plain taffeta green parasol with en
ameled handle or one of plain natural
. wood, may be had for iZ.
Next to this comes the parasol with
tiny tucks run just above the edge; then
one finished with a fine, flat knife-pleut-lng;
third, scalloped edges Inside which
run dots of varying sizes, fine ruffles set
on the parasol near the edge;, fifth, each
section of the cover is all in self-tone
embroidery silk; fourth, apparently split
in the center, and then a "V"-shapcd
piece of silk like a gore, covered with
tiny ruffles is inset; sixth and last, you
have the green parasol covered with
great roses or chrysanthemums in pastel
colorings. Some odd combinations are
also shown, such as a green silk cover,
with a border of fine black and white
strips set ba line of black silk embroid
ered dots. The handle is of black and
white enameled wood with a matching
cord and tassel. '
For general use with tailored costumes
in silk or lightweight cloth, there Is noth
ing better than a natural colored pongee
cover, with embroidery to match or har
monize with the frock. Large dots or
discs are generally selected for this em
broidery, and some scalloped edges are
seen, though they are less popular titan
last season.
The woman who wants a complete cos
tume, suit, hat and parasol. In one of
the new shades, Copenhagen blue, rasp
berry or yellowish-golden brown. will
have no trouble In selecting her parasol.
They come in every new shade of silk,
with plain, tucked or ruffle-edged covers,
and. with striking border effects to match
the bordered suitings. With a plain en
ameled or natural wood handle they
range in price from $3 to $10.
Probably for the really-truly Summer
girl, the best parasol investment is a
pompadour silk, either with or without a
border. These can be carried with any
sort of lingerie frock, with a delicate
Summer silk, with a black and white cos
tume and with all sorts of figured and
bordered materials in what are termed
"tub weaves."
The pompadour silk of the moment is
more shadowy and indescribable than ever,
but generally speaking It combines such
pastel shades as blue. gray, lavender,
pink, yellow and green, with gray and
white predominating.
How to Wear a Hat.
It is not enough to buy "a good-looking
hat. You must know how to wear it.
Why is it that many a hat that is rav
ishingly becoming in the store is a fright
when adjusted by the owner?
It is all a matter of angle. Look in
the glass and sec just what is the spot
that is going to make the passerby say
"What a pretty girl!" which Is, after all,
the only thing that counts In headgear.
When you have found that particular
tilt, stick to it. Hustle through all the
rest of your dressing, but take time to
put on your hat.
Put your pins in so tight that your hat
can defy the breezes to do their worst.
Even a French creation cannot look its
price when slipping over one ear.
Don's favor an angle because it is the
style. There may be women who cart
afford to be slaves of fashion, but rest
assured you are not one of them.
Here is a tip given by a famous milli
ner that may throw some light on what
is. or Is not, the becoming angle: "Al
ways have the front of your hat come
out as far as your nose. It may come
farther, but woe betide the girl with a
regard to her profile who neglects this
simple rule."
The Patriot's Boast.
Chicago News.
They prate about the foreign watch with
Sweitner case and works.
As if our own chronometers went buzzing
on by jerks.
They speak a if all home-made goods
were nothing but a botch -The
universal Yankee can make just' as
good a watch.
They speak about the German brew of
certain foamy stuff.
As if no other style of suds were competent
enough.
But yet from all that we can learn can
see or taste or hear
The universal Yankee makes as good a
brand of beer.
You hear of all the wormlike foods Italian
people make
Spaghetti. macaroni, vermicelli goodness
sake!
We wouldn't let the foreigners excel at all,
we hope
The universal Yankee makes as good a
doughy rope.
"A French machine:" "A French-made
car!" To hear them talk you'd think
The only eutos came from where straight
absinth is the drink.
But nowadays we beat 'em out with higher
speed by far
The universal Yankee makes the record
breaking car.
We rag the blooming foreign end for all
his bully ways:
We roast his big monocle and his Ill-accented
phrase.
And yet In aslninity we've people In his
class
The universal Yankee can bo just as big ao
aal ,