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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OR EG OMAN, PORTLAND, 3IARCII 22, I9C8. 'Twixt Six and Sixteen Fashions girls between and 16 is every mother's problem. Very few girls strike a pleasing medium. Kit her they are all angles or all curves, rarely a happy combination of the two. The angular girl seems all legs and arms. The heavy-set girl Is an animated pin cushion, resisting ail motherly attempts to imbue her raiment with grace or per sonality. But as this particular problem of moth erhood must bo solved, let us do it with out further delay. The general effect of a frock for a growing girl, be she thin or stout, is regulated largely by the selec tion of the fabric. The stout girl should nrvtr be encased in a startling plaid or even a medium-sized check, but, both of these are becoming to the thin girl. On the other band, the very thin girl should nver he dressed in stripes nor snug-fit-thig clothes. Tho thin girl may wear a frock much trimmed with fluffy ruffles and rose pleatlngs, but braid1 and- flat knife plcatings are for her roly-poly sister. Soft, indefinable mixtures are always. better for the awkward age than pro nounced patterns of any sort. A small conventional figure on a single-tone ground is also better than wide checks or plaids. The wash goods this Spring are especially fancy, and it is a wise mother who turns her back on these gay stripes, rher-kH, plaids and borders for her girls 'twixt 6 and lfi. Pronounced patterns of any sort, and especially in striking color ings are an extra .figanee, for they do not wear so well because of sun and tubbing, h.s tho simpler, plainer designs. Then, too, a child soon tires of the frock that is too pronounced. Many a little girl's heart has ached because her companions accuse her of having only one dress to wear to school, simply on account of the frock's heing a vivid plaid or check. Had the dress been less striking, its constant use would not have attracted notice. The prettiest white materials for best wear this season are the figured Swisses and barred dimities, lawns and batistes. Theso require very little embroidery or lace for trimming, and are most becoming to girls both tall and short. For simpler suits, especially for school or play, there are cotton voiles, percales, linens and gal atca cloth in light weight and lovely ging hams and zephyr cloths. What is known as the natural tone; t. e.. a strong ecru, is much used by economical mothers be cause It docs not show dirt and does not fade in washing. It comes in almost all wash goods, and may be trimmed with pipings or wash braids of a contrasting color such as white, brown, red or blue. Mlue-Rray chambrays. trimmed with wash braids or strips of white embroidery, re main very good this season. For after noon frot-ks, grenadine designs are shown, and tlmso include striped muslins and lawns, with a iatin finish in one stripe and a lace effect in the other. Stunning Jumper and Eton costumes in heavy linen are offered! for girls of all ages, and these sensibly are made with very little contrasting trimming. Often the cuffs and collars are detached, so that the colored suit and Its pure white accessories can be washed separately. Thi.x Is Insurance against the running of tho color Into the white trimmings. I'nouoHtionably this remains a season of overblouses and Jumpers for growing prrls. and pleats seem to be more popular than shirrlngs or ruffles. I-'or outdoor wraps, cutaways are shown for girls near 16, but for those nearer 6, the box coat remains in favor. The new est hats for girls, as for their mothers, are the huge, flat-crowned sailors, trimmed with big bows of wreaths of flowers. Tho shape is extremely trying to both thin-faced and moon-faced girls. It makes the thin girl look pinched and the stout girt look sawed off, so a wise mother turns away resolutely from the rew shape and takes something less try ing. A hat with one side upturned and the other drooping Is generally more be coming to a growing girl than the hat of uniform width and droop all the way round. Brown shoes, ties and hosiery remain In style, ami the urIv custom of wearing white stockings with black shoes or ties is dying a natural death. A number of pretty designs for growing girls are shown today. Figure A shows & surplice jumper which can be developed in almost any fabric, light-weight wool, veiling, silk, or tub material.- The cos tume from which it was drawn was made from natural toned pongee trimmed with feature is the mandarin sleeve band, which falls over the puffed sleeve and gives breadth, to the narrow-chested school girl. Figure D displays a most pleasing jump er with pleats, suitable for girls thin and girls thick. The deep, pointed neck leaves room for a cunning tucked gulmpe. The sleeves of the latter are plain puffs set SI RPLICE JLiVPER. a novelty braid showing tan, brown and gold. The guimpe was of ecru dotted net and the girdle was of silk like the jump er. The tucked blouse and skirt are most becoming to a slender figure. Figure C shows one of the prettiest and most girlish of blouses for house wear and particularly for evening dinner, for which meal the average young girl now dresses with great care. It was designed In a finely figured net with trimmings of German Val lace, and its .most fetching off by the cape-sleeves of the jumper. This can be developed in percale, ging ham, chambray or zephyr cloth. Figure E is Just the design liked by the little girl who knows how to keep clean. It Is here shown is a blue and white ging ham with deep collar or b re telle and turn-back cuffs of whtte linen, braided. It is entirely suitable for afternoon wear, but the big starched collar makes heavy laundering if used for play purpases. MARY DEAX. Hints About Beauty of Eyelashes and Brows LAST week wc talked about the health of the eye itself. This week our Interest will be centered on the frame of the eyes the lashes and brows. "Without health these cannot be beauti ful. Like the hair on the head, they nuist be fed from within. It is almost pathetic that women will spend hours coloring and penciling their eyebrows and using cosmetics on their lashes, when the same amount of time spent In legitimately treating the scanty brows and lashes would give permanent and much more pleasing results. First. It is well to find out whether JIMPKIt DBKSS IX PKRCAI.E. thai not an atom of the liquid gets into the eye . itself, as this would be very dangerous. The lavender vinegar is made as follows: Lavender water. 1 quart; rosewater, o ounces; glacial acetic acid. 2H ounces. Colorless lashes and brows are a real affliction, because the lack of color cer tainly detracts from the distinction and the strength of the face: therefore I do not blame a woman so afflicted for turn lng to dyes. There is no dye for the eyebrows and lashes that is permanent. Once you begin to dye them, you must be resigned to repeating the process at least once in six weeks. If you have in your town an expert hair dresser or barber, be is the man to do this work for you.' The lashes In particular must be treated with Infinite care, as a drop of the average dye is most painful to the eye Itself. Experts often run a piece of fine cardboard around the lashes to catch any dye that may drop from the brush. I would be very glad to furnish a formula for a dye on receipt of a stamped and addressed envelope, but I beg my readers to have it applied by someone who thoroughly understands the work. KATHEK1NE MORTON. Hints on Good Form for the Dancers the scanty, irregular growth of lash or brow is caused by a diseased condition at the roots of the hair. For instance, sties will kill the growth of the lashes. When sties have become almost chronic, reduce your diet and avoid over-spiced foods and alcoholic liquors; then bathe the eyes twice a day with camomile water, which any druggist can prepare for you. A very simple ointment for sties and one which is sometimes used by oculists for inflammation of the eye lid, is this: Blend with one tablespoon of thick sweet cream, one grain of yel low oxide of mercury. Rub gently Into the affected parts. If there Is neither inflammation nor a tendency to sties, but the growth of hair is scanty and irregular, try cut ting or clipping the lashes. This can be done with small curved, very sharp scis sors with a steady hand, once a month for four months, precisely 'as you .clip your hair. Then apply a quinine lotion to the base of the lashes where they join the flesh. Mix five grains of sul phate of quinine with one ounce of sweet almond oil and apply night and morning with a fine sable pencil or tiny brush. Various pomades are useful in promot ing the growth of the eyebrows, but first these should be perfectly shaped. If there is too much hair standing out stubbornly near the nose, some of these superfluous hairs should be removed with tweezers, and the hairs directly over the center of the eye encouraged to grow. If the hairs straggle or snow a tendency to bushiness, they may be trained by the use of gum tragacanth. or quince seeds. Dissolve the gum or seeds In just enough elder flower or rose water to give the consistency of mucilage, such as you buy at shops, strain this into a little stone Jar, and every night before retiring, dip your eyebrow brush into the mixture and brush the obstreperous hairs into the shape or arch you wish your eyebrows to form. An eyebrow . brush is shaped like a toothbrush on square lines, but is very tiny. It can be bought for about 10 cents at any drug or department store, and should be found on every toilet table. Let the gum remain on over night, wash off In the morning with warm water, drying the brows carefully and brushing thcem into shape again with a clean eyebrow brush. Women who have a tendency to dan druff, especially brunettes, sometimes are troubled with dandruff in the brows as well as on the scalp. This can be re duced by just dipping the eyebrow brush into alcohol or even a strong cologne water, and brushing well into the brows. An excellent eyebrow and eyelash ton ic is this: Take two and a half ounces of lavender vinegar; one and a quarter ounces of glycerine; two drachms of fluid extract of jaborandi and agitate until thoroughly blended. Apply to the brows with the eyebrow brush, and to the. lashes with a tiny camel's hair brush. The brush must be gently dipped into the lotion ami. lightly passed over the edge of the lid, and great care must be taken i' ECONOMY IN SLEEVES WHILE the newest styles In gowns show long and simple lines, the sleeves and yokes are most elaborate, and some of them intricate in detail. Therefore, In making over an old blouse, the most Important ques tion Is, "How can I remodel the sleeves?" One thing is certain, you cannot depend on the skimpy pieces left from the old sleeves, and you do not think that entirely different ma terial will do. Here you are mistaken. Rip up the old sleeves, sponge and press them. Then buy a little new material and make elbow sleeves con trasting In weaves but harmonious in color, using the pieces of the old sleeves for tiny bias bands about the cuffs, or shaped circular-ruffles at the top if there is enough. If not enough for the latter, the bias bands will be sufficient. Now inset a little yoke of the new material and make a collar of the same, and this will give you a very up-to-date blouse. Nets are used with cloth, silk, linen and cotton fabrics. The prettiest guimpes can be made of scraps of lace a woman always tucks in the lace box if only you had enough for sleeves! This Is a ques tion easily solved. Make the guimpe on a foundation lining, and use your precious bits of lac only where they will show under the jumper blouse. As to the sleeves, match the lace in edg ing of some inexpensive quality in same weight and tint. Make a founda tion sleeve- of white muslin, and sew the lace on this In three ruffles. This is one of the most popular sleeves this season. Perhaps you have a dress with short sleeves, and now that the freshness has worn off, you wish it had long: sleeves, so you could "get the good of it" for Informal wear. This is easily accomplished. Some of the very smart est new models are showing sleeves which reach above the elbow or just below 1t, made from material like the waist iself. Then the long-sleeve ef fect is procured by making a tight fitted lining of white lawn, and over this a mousquetaire or fulled under sleeve of net or lace. This sleeve must come to the wrist. It may even form a point that runs down over the hand. You must put touches of the same lace on the blouse. Perhaps a little lace tie made of the net, or a V-shaped dickey, but lace must be in troduced in the blouse as well as the sleeve. To illustrate the use of a variety of materials in making sleeves, I can de scribe a gown I saw the other day, fresh from the hands of a French mo diste. It was the simplest little lav ender mull, with a full tucked skirt, absolutely devoid of trimming. The blouse was a surplice, and the sleeves they were marvels. The body of the sleeve was made in a little puff of all over "Val. lace. Oyer this was a cap of Irish lace, edged with batiste medal lions, and each medallion was edged with a tiny frill of Val, lace. Let me add that this gown was worn by a tall, willowy girl. It would be Impos sible on a short, stout girl but it will suggest to readers the idea of using up odds and ends of lace. By combin ing two or three different kinds at hand you can often evolve a charming sleeve without buying any new ma terial. If your tailored shirtwaist is per fectly good except that the lower part of the sleeve is worn out, cut off the sleeve just below the elbow and wear long white undercuffs of some plain material like batiste, dimity, etc. Take the old pieces of the sleeve and patch under the arms, or wherever you may see the waist just about to break, and you will find that it will look new and fresh again. MARY DEAN. IN this department last week we dis cussed subscription dances which young people can organize with the aid of a few married couples. This week we will go one step further and consider cer tain important points of et!quette which go to make the dances successful, friendly ters to attend subscription dances, for the patronesses are also the chaperones. If the subscription dances are very informal, evening dress is sometimes not obligatory, but in these days in nearly all cities the young men who can' afford to go out at all, can also afford evening clothes. Their initial cost is high, but TWO FISH SAUCES. Tartar Sauce for Flnht Delicious with fried or boiled fish of any kind; also may be erved with ham burg steak. One cup of mayonnaise dress ing, one tablespoon each of capers, olives, green cucumber pickle and par sley. Chop the relishes moderately fine, and shake up in a piece of cheese cloth until the moisture is absorbed. Then, a little at a time, blend these with the mayonnaise. Have the fish or meat very hot the sauce Is cold. Serve this sauce in a separate dish. Tomato Sanre for Flnht This can be used with boiled or fried fish. Half a can of tomatoes, six cloves, three sprigs of parsley, one teaspoon of mixed herbs, one-half teaspoon of whole allspice, one-half teaspoon of peppercorns. Cook these together for 20 minutes. In another saucepan, melt and brown one tablespoon of butter, add to this two tablespoons of finely chopped onion. When the onion is brown add two tablespoons of flour, and allow this to brown. Now add slowly one cup of soup stock, then the cooked tomato mixtures, simmer gent ly 10 minutes, and rub through a coarse sieve. This is served hot over the fish. Egg Sauce for Fish: Cod is noe of the cheapest fishes for boiling purposes, but served with a properly made sauce it becomes a real delicacy. Melt one ta blespoon of butter in a saucepan, but do not allow it to brown. Add one table spoon of flour and stir until smooth, fla vor with half teaspoon of salt and one fourth teaspoon of white pepper. Have ready one cup of hot milk, add this gradually, stir until it reaches the con sistency of thick cream, then simmer very gently without stirring for three minutes. Add two hard-boiled eggs. chopped or diced, and, just as you re move from nre. one teaspoon of lemon juice and a tablespoon of chopped pars ley. Do not allow it to boil after you add the lemon juice, and drain your fish absolutely dry before pouring the sauce over it, otherwise your sauce will be come watery. TICKED BLOCSB FOR EVEXISG W EAR. and free, from .all friction and misunderstandings. If you will remember, the subscription dance is one to which everyone invited. gk-Is and men alike, subscribe a fixed sum to meet expenses. Its finances are gener ally managed by a committee, and Mrs. Grundy is represented by three, four or even more patronesses, all married women. This gives us three types of guests whose bearing toward each other will make or mar the series of dances pat ronesses, men and girls. First, as to patronesses. These take the place of hostesses and are the only chaperones needed at a subscription dance. That is, mothers may feel quite comfortable about allowing their daugh- with good care they will last many sea sons. An evening suit means also a white vest, white gloves, white linen and a white tie. Patent leather dancing pumps also should be worn, and black hosiery. The patronesses and the girls wear light frocks, preferably cut in dancing length, i. e., one and one-half inches from the ground. Decollette is not essential, but some slight low-cut effect around the throat makes the frock more appropriate. Evening frocks that will launder, such as lawn, batiste linon, are used almost as less- practical materials for dancing, and one white dress worn over a variety of delicately colored slips in thin silk or even lawn, with a touch of the same color in girdle or sash or fichu, is better than a variety of very cheap gowns that will not wash. Long gloves, and dainty tippers with silk or fine lisle hosiery. must be worn with these frocks. The patronesses stand inside the en trance of the dancing-room, to receive arrivals, precisely as they would in their homes. They must remain there until he dancing begins, and even during the ear ner numbers, several of them should re main in line, while others join the danc ers. The patronesses-also see that sub scribers and guests are introduced and that "wall flowers" are rescued, and they remain until the last young girl Is safely bundled into her wraps and started off for home. The husband of a patroness is precisely like any other man guest. He does not stand at his wife's elbow dur ing receiving hours, but he is her able lieutenant upon the floor and in making introductions. Yourg men who come alone should al ways make a point of stopping to greet each patroness, and if they dance, he se cures or endeavors to secure a number on each card. That is a courtesy due to patronesses. The young man who knows few girls present, looks to the patron esses and their husbands for introduc tions, while the young man who Is well known may introduce bis less-favored man friend, always asking the girl in' question in advance, however, whether she wishes, to meet "Mr. So-and-So." The young man who brings a girl to the dance must wait for her near the dressing-room, escort her to the ballroom and. allowing her to enter first, greet the patronesses after her. He generally se cures the first and last dance with her, and escorts her to supper if refreshments are served, but he does not monopolize the greater part of her dances before ehe even enters the room. As soon as a man is introduced to a girl, he asks for her card, or requests that a dance be reserved for him. This request is simply worded: "May I write my name down for the first disengaged dance. Miss Jones?" or "I hope there is a dance or two left for me?" The girl must respond promptly, and having promised a dance, keep her promise. If she does not care to danco with this particular man, after watching him dance with others, then she may plead weariness, and sit the dance out with him. But she cannot refuse to keep her engagement with him and then dance off with another man. This is not co quetry, but rudeness. After a dance, the man escorts the girl to a comfortable seat, and remains by her side for a moment or two. It is ex-' tremely rude to leave a girl as if you could hardly wait till the dance was con cluded. If the music begins for the next dance before anyone claims his ex-partner, the young tuan may instantly excuse himself and seek his new partner. Sometimes when patronesses are lax in the performance of their duties; or a young man in the crowd seems to be hav ing a stupid time, a girl may suggest to the young men she knows that she would like to have the newcomer introduced. "He seems to be having a rather slow time. Let us make him feel at home." But as a rule it is safer for a girl to let the men demand the introductions. The man who has come alone may leave the dance at any time he desires, but if he goes before he fulfills his dancing en gagements, he must apologize to the girls In question, and if possible provide other partners. This hint for the young man who may be seized with a headache or re ceive a business summons. Only such reasons would excuse his departure. The young man who brings a girl must wait for her to suggest departing, unless some thing unforeseen and unusual arises, in which case he must arrange for her proper escort home in his absence, and a Substitute for his numbers on her dance card. He must also apologize for his abrupt departure to the patronesses. Every guest, man or girl, mut bid the patronesses good night on departure. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Recipes for Delicious Home-Made Candies THERE is no better sport for young girls when' they meet in the even ing than candy making. Delicious varieties can be prepared with little trouble and small expense. Probably the most popular, however, are chocolate caramels or chocolate candies in all forms. Caramels. One-quarter of a pound of chocolate, one and a half pounds of brown sugar, one-quarter of a pound of butter, one tumblerful of milk or cream. Put all together and let them melt. Boil for 20 minutes, pour on buttered dishes and before quite cold cut in small squares with a sharp knife. After taking off the saucepan add half a teaspoonful of- essence of vanilla. Be careful not to take the caramels off the Are until they are cooked. Test by dropping a little in cold water. Chocolate Drops. Scrape one -pound of chocolate, lift and beat into it four pounds of sugar. Beat to a froth the whites of four eggs and add the sugar and chocolate. Beat as stiff as a paste. Grease a papered pan and drop the mixture upon it (about the size of a 5-cent piece). Bake in a slow oven. Molasses Candy. Half gallon of West India molasses, one pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of butter. Boil for three hours, and just before the candy is done add the juice of a lemon. Try some by cooling it on a plats to see if it is sufficiently .stiff. Pull as for sugar candy for half an hour. A little vinegar on the hands will make the taffy crisp. It should be a light yel low color when pulled. " Butter Scotch. Two cupfuls of sugar, two tablespoon fuls of water, a piece of butter the size of an egg. boil without stirring until It hardens on a spoon. Pour out on but tered plates to cool. Cocoanut Candy. Grate the meat of a cocoanut and have ready two pounds of granulated sugar and the beaten white of two eggs, also the milk of the cocoanut. Mix them all together and make into small cakes. In a short time the candy will be sufficiently dry to eat. Lemon Taffy. One pound of brown sugar, quarter of a pound of butter, four tablespoonfuls of water. Let it boil until a clear brown color, season with a little lemon juice after It is taken off the fire, then drop it on the soapstone griddle as in directions given for peanut taffy. Lemon Candy. Put into the-kettle - two and one-half pounds of sugar,' one and one-half pints of water., one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, boil until it becomes brittle when dropped in cold water. When cooked pour into a shallow dish which has been greased with a little but ter. As soon as this has cooled enough to handle, add one teaspoonful of tar taric acid and the same quantity of extract-of lemon, work them into the mass. The acid must be fine and free from lumps. Work this in until evenly dis tributed and no more, as it will tend to destroy the appearance of the candy. Peanut Taffy. One pound of brown sugar, quarter of a pound of butter, one quart of peanuts toasted a light brown. Put the sugar and butter In a skillet with two tablespoonfuls of water, let this boil until the taffy is a clear, dark color, then stir in the peanuts; boil for 16 minutes. Have ready the griddle on which break fast cakes are baked and drop one spoon ful of taffy on at a time;-It will cool quickly, and makes pretty cakes. Soap stone griddle is the best, as it cools the taffy quickly and does not retain heat. Walnut Creams. One cup of granulated sugar, half cup ful of hot water, boil hard for three minutes or until it jellies in cold water, cool it and beat fast until it creams, spread on a platter and put on walnut split in half. JUMPER DRESS I V PERCALE.
