THE SUNDAY OR EG OMAN, PORTLAND, 3IARCII 22, I9C8.
'Twixt Six and Sixteen Fashions
girls between and 16 is
every mother's problem. Very few
girls strike a pleasing medium.
Kit her they are all angles or all curves,
rarely a happy combination of the two.
The angular girl seems all legs and arms.
The heavy-set girl Is an animated pin
cushion, resisting ail motherly attempts
to imbue her raiment with grace or per
sonality. But as this particular problem of moth
erhood must bo solved, let us do it with
out further delay. The general effect of
a frock for a growing girl, be she thin or
stout, is regulated largely by the selec
tion of the fabric. The stout girl should
nrvtr be encased in a startling plaid or
even a medium-sized check, but, both of
these are becoming to the thin girl. On
the other band, the very thin girl should
nver he dressed in stripes nor snug-fit-thig
clothes. Tho thin girl may wear a
frock much trimmed with fluffy ruffles
and rose pleatlngs, but braid1 and- flat
knife plcatings are for her roly-poly sister.
Soft, indefinable mixtures are always.
better for the awkward age than pro
nounced patterns of any sort. A small
conventional figure on a single-tone
ground is also better than wide checks or
plaids. The wash goods this Spring are
especially fancy, and it is a wise mother
who turns her back on these gay stripes,
rher-kH, plaids and borders for her girls
'twixt 6 and lfi. Pronounced patterns of
any sort, and especially in striking color
ings are an extra .figanee, for they do not
wear so well because of sun and tubbing,
h.s tho simpler, plainer designs. Then,
too, a child soon tires of the frock that is
too pronounced. Many a little girl's heart
has ached because her companions accuse
her of having only one dress to wear to
school, simply on account of the frock's
heing a vivid plaid or check. Had the
dress been less striking, its constant use
would not have attracted notice.
The prettiest white materials for best
wear this season are the figured Swisses
and barred dimities, lawns and batistes.
Theso require very little embroidery or
lace for trimming, and are most becoming
to girls both tall and short. For simpler
suits, especially for school or play, there
are cotton voiles, percales, linens and gal
atca cloth in light weight and lovely ging
hams and zephyr cloths. What is known
as the natural tone; t. e.. a strong ecru, is
much used by economical mothers be
cause It docs not show dirt and does not
fade in washing. It comes in almost all
wash goods, and may be trimmed with
pipings or wash braids of a contrasting
color such as white, brown, red or blue.
Mlue-Rray chambrays. trimmed with wash
braids or strips of white embroidery, re
main very good this season. For after
noon frot-ks, grenadine designs are shown,
and tlmso include striped muslins and
lawns, with a iatin finish in one stripe
and a lace effect in the other.
Stunning Jumper and Eton costumes in
heavy linen are offered! for girls of all
ages, and these sensibly are made with
very little contrasting trimming. Often
the cuffs and collars are detached, so
that the colored suit and Its pure white
accessories can be washed separately.
Thi.x Is Insurance against the running of
tho color Into the white trimmings.
I'nouoHtionably this remains a season
of overblouses and Jumpers for growing
prrls. and pleats seem to be more popular
than shirrlngs or ruffles.
I-'or outdoor wraps, cutaways are shown
for girls near 16, but for those nearer 6,
the box coat remains in favor. The new
est hats for girls, as for their mothers,
are the huge, flat-crowned sailors,
trimmed with big bows of wreaths of
flowers. Tho shape is extremely trying
to both thin-faced and moon-faced girls.
It makes the thin girl look pinched and
the stout girt look sawed off, so a wise
mother turns away resolutely from the
rew shape and takes something less try
ing. A hat with one side upturned and
the other drooping Is generally more be
coming to a growing girl than the hat of
uniform width and droop all the way
round.
Brown shoes, ties and hosiery remain In
style, ami the urIv custom of wearing
white stockings with black shoes or ties
is dying a natural death.
A number of pretty designs for growing
girls are shown today. Figure A shows &
surplice jumper which can be developed
in almost any fabric, light-weight wool,
veiling, silk, or tub material.- The cos
tume from which it was drawn was made
from natural toned pongee trimmed with
feature is the mandarin sleeve band,
which falls over the puffed sleeve and
gives breadth, to the narrow-chested
school girl.
Figure D displays a most pleasing jump
er with pleats, suitable for girls thin and
girls thick. The deep, pointed neck leaves
room for a cunning tucked gulmpe. The
sleeves of the latter are plain puffs set
SI RPLICE JLiVPER.
a novelty braid showing tan, brown and
gold. The guimpe was of ecru dotted net
and the girdle was of silk like the jump
er. The tucked blouse and skirt are most
becoming to a slender figure.
Figure C shows one of the prettiest and
most girlish of blouses for house wear
and particularly for evening dinner, for
which meal the average young girl now
dresses with great care. It was designed
In a finely figured net with trimmings of
German Val lace, and its .most fetching
off by the cape-sleeves of the jumper.
This can be developed in percale, ging
ham, chambray or zephyr cloth.
Figure E is Just the design liked by the
little girl who knows how to keep clean.
It Is here shown is a blue and white ging
ham with deep collar or b re telle and
turn-back cuffs of whtte linen, braided.
It is entirely suitable for afternoon wear,
but the big starched collar makes heavy
laundering if used for play purpases.
MARY DEAX.
Hints About Beauty of Eyelashes and Brows
LAST week wc talked about the
health of the eye itself. This week
our Interest will be centered on the
frame of the eyes the lashes and brows.
"Without health these cannot be beauti
ful. Like the hair on the head, they
nuist be fed from within. It is almost
pathetic that women will spend hours
coloring and penciling their eyebrows
and using cosmetics on their lashes,
when the same amount of time spent In
legitimately treating the scanty brows
and lashes would give permanent and
much more pleasing results.
First. It is well to find out whether
JIMPKIt DBKSS IX PKRCAI.E.
thai not an atom of the liquid gets into
the eye . itself, as this would be very
dangerous. The lavender vinegar is
made as follows: Lavender water. 1
quart; rosewater, o ounces; glacial acetic
acid. 2H ounces.
Colorless lashes and brows are a real
affliction, because the lack of color cer
tainly detracts from the distinction and
the strength of the face: therefore I do
not blame a woman so afflicted for turn
lng to dyes. There is no dye for the
eyebrows and lashes that is permanent.
Once you begin to dye them, you must
be resigned to repeating the process at
least once in six weeks. If you have
in your town an expert hair dresser or
barber, be is the man to do this work
for you.' The lashes In particular must
be treated with Infinite care, as a drop
of the average dye is most painful to the
eye Itself. Experts often run a piece
of fine cardboard around the lashes to
catch any dye that may drop from the
brush. I would be very glad to furnish
a formula for a dye on receipt of a
stamped and addressed envelope, but I
beg my readers to have it applied by
someone who thoroughly understands the
work.
KATHEK1NE MORTON.
Hints on Good Form for the Dancers
the scanty, irregular growth of lash or
brow is caused by a diseased condition
at the roots of the hair. For instance,
sties will kill the growth of the lashes.
When sties have become almost chronic,
reduce your diet and avoid over-spiced
foods and alcoholic liquors; then bathe
the eyes twice a day with camomile
water, which any druggist can prepare
for you. A very simple ointment for
sties and one which is sometimes used
by oculists for inflammation of the eye
lid, is this: Blend with one tablespoon
of thick sweet cream, one grain of yel
low oxide of mercury. Rub gently Into
the affected parts.
If there Is neither inflammation nor
a tendency to sties, but the growth of
hair is scanty and irregular, try cut
ting or clipping the lashes. This can be
done with small curved, very sharp scis
sors with a steady hand, once a month
for four months, precisely 'as you .clip
your hair. Then apply a quinine lotion
to the base of the lashes where they
join the flesh. Mix five grains of sul
phate of quinine with one ounce of sweet
almond oil and apply night and morning
with a fine sable pencil or tiny brush.
Various pomades are useful in promot
ing the growth of the eyebrows, but
first these should be perfectly shaped.
If there is too much hair standing out
stubbornly near the nose, some of these
superfluous hairs should be removed with
tweezers, and the hairs directly over the
center of the eye encouraged to grow. If
the hairs straggle or snow a tendency to
bushiness, they may be trained by the
use of gum tragacanth. or quince seeds.
Dissolve the gum or seeds In just enough
elder flower or rose water to give the
consistency of mucilage, such as you buy
at shops, strain this into a little stone
Jar, and every night before retiring, dip
your eyebrow brush into the mixture and
brush the obstreperous hairs into the
shape or arch you wish your eyebrows
to form. An eyebrow . brush is shaped
like a toothbrush on square lines, but is
very tiny. It can be bought for about
10 cents at any drug or department store,
and should be found on every toilet
table. Let the gum remain on over night,
wash off In the morning with warm
water, drying the brows carefully and
brushing thcem into shape again with a
clean eyebrow brush.
Women who have a tendency to dan
druff, especially brunettes, sometimes are
troubled with dandruff in the brows as
well as on the scalp. This can be re
duced by just dipping the eyebrow brush
into alcohol or even a strong cologne
water, and brushing well into the brows.
An excellent eyebrow and eyelash ton
ic is this: Take two and a half ounces
of lavender vinegar; one and a quarter
ounces of glycerine; two drachms of fluid
extract of jaborandi and agitate until
thoroughly blended. Apply to the brows
with the eyebrow brush, and to the.
lashes with a tiny camel's hair brush.
The brush must be gently dipped into the
lotion ami. lightly passed over the edge
of the lid, and great care must be taken
i'
ECONOMY IN
SLEEVES
WHILE the newest styles In gowns
show long and simple lines, the
sleeves and yokes are most
elaborate, and some of them intricate
in detail. Therefore, In making over
an old blouse, the most Important ques
tion Is, "How can I remodel the
sleeves?" One thing is certain, you
cannot depend on the skimpy pieces
left from the old sleeves, and you do
not think that entirely different ma
terial will do. Here you are mistaken.
Rip up the old sleeves, sponge and
press them. Then buy a little new
material and make elbow sleeves con
trasting In weaves but harmonious in
color, using the pieces of the old
sleeves for tiny bias bands about the
cuffs, or shaped circular-ruffles at the
top if there is enough. If not enough
for the latter, the bias bands will be
sufficient. Now inset a little yoke of
the new material and make a collar of
the same, and this will give you a very
up-to-date blouse. Nets are used with
cloth, silk, linen and cotton fabrics.
The prettiest guimpes can be made
of scraps of lace a woman always
tucks in the lace box if only you had
enough for sleeves! This Is a ques
tion easily solved. Make the guimpe
on a foundation lining, and use your
precious bits of lac only where they
will show under the jumper blouse. As
to the sleeves, match the lace in edg
ing of some inexpensive quality in
same weight and tint. Make a founda
tion sleeve- of white muslin, and sew
the lace on this In three ruffles. This
is one of the most popular sleeves this
season.
Perhaps you have a dress with short
sleeves, and now that the freshness
has worn off, you wish it had long:
sleeves, so you could "get the good
of it" for Informal wear. This is easily
accomplished. Some of the very smart
est new models are showing sleeves
which reach above the elbow or just
below 1t, made from material like the
waist iself. Then the long-sleeve ef
fect is procured by making a tight
fitted lining of white lawn, and over
this a mousquetaire or fulled under
sleeve of net or lace. This sleeve
must come to the wrist. It may even
form a point that runs down over the
hand. You must put touches of the
same lace on the blouse. Perhaps a
little lace tie made of the net, or a
V-shaped dickey, but lace must be in
troduced in the blouse as well as the
sleeve.
To illustrate the use of a variety of
materials in making sleeves, I can de
scribe a gown I saw the other day,
fresh from the hands of a French mo
diste. It was the simplest little lav
ender mull, with a full tucked skirt,
absolutely devoid of trimming. The
blouse was a surplice, and the sleeves
they were marvels. The body of the
sleeve was made in a little puff of all
over "Val. lace. Oyer this was a cap of
Irish lace, edged with batiste medal
lions, and each medallion was edged
with a tiny frill of Val, lace. Let me
add that this gown was worn by a
tall, willowy girl. It would be Impos
sible on a short, stout girl but it will
suggest to readers the idea of using
up odds and ends of lace. By combin
ing two or three different kinds at
hand you can often evolve a charming
sleeve without buying any new ma
terial. If your tailored shirtwaist is per
fectly good except that the lower part
of the sleeve is worn out, cut off the
sleeve just below the elbow and wear
long white undercuffs of some plain
material like batiste, dimity, etc. Take
the old pieces of the sleeve and patch
under the arms, or wherever you may
see the waist just about to break, and you
will find that it will look new and
fresh again. MARY DEAN.
IN this department last week we dis
cussed subscription dances which
young people can organize with the aid
of a few married couples. This week we
will go one step further and consider cer
tain important points of et!quette which
go to make the dances successful, friendly
ters to attend subscription dances, for the
patronesses are also the chaperones.
If the subscription dances are very
informal, evening dress is sometimes not
obligatory, but in these days in nearly all
cities the young men who can' afford to
go out at all, can also afford evening
clothes. Their initial cost is high, but
TWO FISH SAUCES.
Tartar Sauce for Flnht Delicious
with fried or boiled fish of any kind;
also may be erved with ham burg
steak. One cup of mayonnaise dress
ing, one tablespoon each of capers,
olives, green cucumber pickle and par
sley. Chop the relishes moderately
fine, and shake up in a piece of cheese
cloth until the moisture is absorbed.
Then, a little at a time, blend these
with the mayonnaise. Have the fish or
meat very hot the sauce Is cold. Serve
this sauce in a separate dish.
Tomato Sanre for Flnht This can be
used with boiled or fried fish. Half a
can of tomatoes, six cloves, three
sprigs of parsley, one teaspoon of
mixed herbs, one-half teaspoon of
whole allspice, one-half teaspoon of
peppercorns. Cook these together for
20 minutes. In another saucepan, melt
and brown one tablespoon of butter,
add to this two tablespoons of finely
chopped onion. When the onion is
brown add two tablespoons of flour,
and allow this to brown. Now add
slowly one cup of soup stock, then the
cooked tomato mixtures, simmer gent
ly 10 minutes, and rub through a
coarse sieve. This is served hot over
the fish.
Egg Sauce for Fish: Cod is noe of the
cheapest fishes for boiling purposes, but
served with a properly made sauce it
becomes a real delicacy. Melt one ta
blespoon of butter in a saucepan, but do
not allow it to brown. Add one table
spoon of flour and stir until smooth, fla
vor with half teaspoon of salt and one
fourth teaspoon of white pepper. Have
ready one cup of hot milk, add this
gradually, stir until it reaches the con
sistency of thick cream, then simmer
very gently without stirring for three
minutes. Add two hard-boiled eggs.
chopped or diced, and, just as you re
move from nre. one teaspoon of lemon
juice and a tablespoon of chopped pars
ley. Do not allow it to boil after you
add the lemon juice, and drain your fish
absolutely dry before pouring the sauce
over it, otherwise your sauce will be
come watery.
TICKED BLOCSB FOR EVEXISG W EAR.
and free, from .all friction and misunderstandings.
If you will remember, the subscription
dance is one to which everyone invited.
gk-Is and men alike, subscribe a fixed sum
to meet expenses. Its finances are gener
ally managed by a committee, and Mrs.
Grundy is represented by three, four or
even more patronesses, all married
women.
This gives us three types of guests
whose bearing toward each other will
make or mar the series of dances pat
ronesses, men and girls.
First, as to patronesses. These take
the place of hostesses and are the only
chaperones needed at a subscription
dance. That is, mothers may feel quite
comfortable about allowing their daugh-
with good care they will last many sea
sons. An evening suit means also a
white vest, white gloves, white linen and
a white tie. Patent leather dancing pumps
also should be worn, and black hosiery.
The patronesses and the girls wear light
frocks, preferably cut in dancing length,
i. e., one and one-half inches from the
ground. Decollette is not essential, but
some slight low-cut effect around the
throat makes the frock more appropriate.
Evening frocks that will launder, such as
lawn, batiste linon, are used almost as
less- practical materials for dancing, and
one white dress worn over a variety of
delicately colored slips in thin silk or
even lawn, with a touch of the same
color in girdle or sash or fichu, is better
than a variety of very cheap gowns that
will not wash. Long gloves, and dainty
tippers with silk or fine lisle hosiery.
must be worn with these frocks.
The patronesses stand inside the en
trance of the dancing-room, to receive
arrivals, precisely as they would in their
homes. They must remain there until he
dancing begins, and even during the ear
ner numbers, several of them should re
main in line, while others join the danc
ers. The patronesses-also see that sub
scribers and guests are introduced and
that "wall flowers" are rescued, and they
remain until the last young girl Is safely
bundled into her wraps and started off
for home. The husband of a patroness is
precisely like any other man guest. He
does not stand at his wife's elbow dur
ing receiving hours, but he is her able
lieutenant upon the floor and in making
introductions.
Yourg men who come alone should al
ways make a point of stopping to greet
each patroness, and if they dance, he se
cures or endeavors to secure a number on
each card. That is a courtesy due to
patronesses. The young man who knows
few girls present, looks to the patron
esses and their husbands for introduc
tions, while the young man who Is well
known may introduce bis less-favored
man friend, always asking the girl in'
question in advance, however, whether
she wishes, to meet "Mr. So-and-So."
The young man who brings a girl to
the dance must wait for her near the
dressing-room, escort her to the ballroom
and. allowing her to enter first, greet the
patronesses after her. He generally se
cures the first and last dance with her,
and escorts her to supper if refreshments
are served, but he does not monopolize
the greater part of her dances before ehe
even enters the room.
As soon as a man is introduced to a
girl, he asks for her card, or requests
that a dance be reserved for him. This
request is simply worded: "May I write
my name down for the first disengaged
dance. Miss Jones?" or "I hope there is
a dance or two left for me?"
The girl must respond promptly, and
having promised a dance, keep her
promise. If she does not care to danco
with this particular man, after watching
him dance with others, then she may
plead weariness, and sit the dance out
with him. But she cannot refuse to keep
her engagement with him and then dance
off with another man. This is not co
quetry, but rudeness.
After a dance, the man escorts the girl
to a comfortable seat, and remains by her
side for a moment or two. It is ex-'
tremely rude to leave a girl as if you
could hardly wait till the dance was con
cluded. If the music begins for the next
dance before anyone claims his ex-partner,
the young tuan may instantly excuse
himself and seek his new partner.
Sometimes when patronesses are lax
in the performance of their duties; or a
young man in the crowd seems to be hav
ing a stupid time, a girl may suggest to
the young men she knows that she would
like to have the newcomer introduced.
"He seems to be having a rather slow
time. Let us make him feel at home."
But as a rule it is safer for a girl to let
the men demand the introductions.
The man who has come alone may leave
the dance at any time he desires, but if
he goes before he fulfills his dancing en
gagements, he must apologize to the girls
In question, and if possible provide other
partners. This hint for the young man
who may be seized with a headache or re
ceive a business summons. Only such
reasons would excuse his departure. The
young man who brings a girl must wait
for her to suggest departing, unless some
thing unforeseen and unusual arises, in
which case he must arrange for her
proper escort home in his absence, and a
Substitute for his numbers on her dance
card. He must also apologize for his
abrupt departure to the patronesses.
Every guest, man or girl, mut bid the
patronesses good night on departure.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Recipes for Delicious Home-Made Candies
THERE is no better sport for young
girls when' they meet in the even
ing than candy making. Delicious
varieties can be prepared with little
trouble and small expense. Probably the
most popular, however, are chocolate
caramels or chocolate candies in all
forms.
Caramels.
One-quarter of a pound of chocolate,
one and a half pounds of brown sugar,
one-quarter of a pound of butter, one
tumblerful of milk or cream.
Put all together and let them melt.
Boil for 20 minutes, pour on buttered
dishes and before quite cold cut in small
squares with a sharp knife.
After taking off the saucepan add half
a teaspoonful of- essence of vanilla.
Be careful not to take the caramels
off the Are until they are cooked. Test
by dropping a little in cold water.
Chocolate Drops.
Scrape one -pound of chocolate, lift and
beat into it four pounds of sugar. Beat
to a froth the whites of four eggs and
add the sugar and chocolate. Beat as
stiff as a paste. Grease a papered pan
and drop the mixture upon it (about the
size of a 5-cent piece). Bake in a slow
oven.
Molasses Candy.
Half gallon of West India molasses, one
pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of
butter.
Boil for three hours, and just before
the candy is done add the juice of a
lemon. Try some by cooling it on a plats
to see if it is sufficiently .stiff.
Pull as for sugar candy for half an
hour.
A little vinegar on the hands will make
the taffy crisp. It should be a light yel
low color when pulled.
" Butter Scotch.
Two cupfuls of sugar, two tablespoon
fuls of water, a piece of butter the size
of an egg. boil without stirring until
It hardens on a spoon. Pour out on but
tered plates to cool.
Cocoanut Candy.
Grate the meat of a cocoanut and have
ready two pounds of granulated sugar
and the beaten white of two eggs, also
the milk of the cocoanut. Mix them all
together and make into small cakes. In
a short time the candy will be sufficiently
dry to eat.
Lemon Taffy.
One pound of brown sugar, quarter of
a pound of butter, four tablespoonfuls
of water.
Let it boil until a clear brown color,
season with a little lemon juice after It
is taken off the fire, then drop it on the
soapstone griddle as in directions given
for peanut taffy.
Lemon Candy.
Put into the-kettle - two and one-half
pounds of sugar,' one and one-half pints
of water., one teaspoonful of cream of
tartar, boil until it becomes brittle when
dropped in cold water.
When cooked pour into a shallow dish
which has been greased with a little but
ter. As soon as this has cooled enough
to handle, add one teaspoonful of tar
taric acid and the same quantity of extract-of
lemon, work them into the mass.
The acid must be fine and free from
lumps. Work this in until evenly dis
tributed and no more, as it will tend
to destroy the appearance of the candy.
Peanut Taffy.
One pound of brown sugar, quarter of
a pound of butter, one quart of peanuts
toasted a light brown.
Put the sugar and butter In a skillet
with two tablespoonfuls of water, let
this boil until the taffy is a clear, dark
color, then stir in the peanuts; boil for
16 minutes.
Have ready the griddle on which break
fast cakes are baked and drop one spoon
ful of taffy on at a time;-It will cool
quickly, and makes pretty cakes. Soap
stone griddle is the best, as it cools the
taffy quickly and does not retain heat.
Walnut Creams.
One cup of granulated sugar, half cup
ful of hot water, boil hard for three
minutes or until it jellies in cold water,
cool it and beat fast until it creams,
spread on a platter and put on walnut
split in half.
JUMPER DRESS I V PERCALE.