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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, MARCH 22, I90S. SOME APPETIZING METHODS OF COOKING AND SERVING KIDNEYS Lilian Tingle Tells of Some Choice Entrees, and Breakfast or Luncheon ' Dishes.' '' BY UUAM TINOL4E. ALTHOUGH there are quite a num ber of people who refuse to eat beef, veal or mutton kidneys in any form, there are many more who enjoy the variety afforded by the oc casional use of these organs as food; and there are several choice entrees and breakfast or luncheon dishes, high ly eateemed by epicures. In which kid neys, especially those of lamb and mutton, are the chief attraction. Care In selection is necessary, for kidneys must be perfectly fresh and sound or they are very unwholesome and tho cooking of them is a matter that also needs some special care and knowledge. The chief thing to re member Is that kidneys should be cooked for a few minute only, or for several hours. It Is a case of opposite extremes in treatment. When Just "set" they are deliclously tender, but if overhoated, they harden, and can only be softened again by long, slow cooking. Hence the most successful dishe aro broiled kidneys or kidney saute, or kidney stew and that old fashioned English dish, celobrated by Dickens and Thackeray, beefsteak and kidney pudding. For broiling, lamb or mutton kid neys are generally used. Sometimes the kidney is sliced straight across Jiuit as it lies embedded ' in' the suet; sometimes, after skinning and trim ming, tho kidneys are split so that they open like a hook, and are then skewered firm and flat with a tiny skewer. In each (rase they should be dipped In salad oil or melted butter and carefully seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of herb powder If liked, or with cayenne and mustard if "deviled kidneys" are deired. For the latter the hot seasonings are often mixed with fine bread or cracker crumbs, and the oiled or buttered kid neys are dipped into this. After broil ing, the skewers are removed and the kidneys are transferred to oblong crou tons or pieces of toast; and & pat of maltra d'hotel or other savory butter, or a spoonful of auce such as tartare or bornaise is placed in the hollow of each kidney. A piece of curled baron Is also a good accompaniment for each portion. When served as an entree, utewed celery, tomatoes or mushrooms are useful accessories, but whatever tho "fixings," the kidneys themselves . must be nicely seasoned and very hot, though not over cooked. For "kidney saute" the kidneys, skinned and trimmed, are cut into small pieces and tossed, until set, in a spoonful or two of nut butter. A poonful of very finely chopped onion or a few mushrooms, according to your taste or resources, may be cooked in the butter before the sliced kidneys are added. In order to avoid overcooking, it . Is safest to remove tho latter while sauce is being made and thickened. Cook a spoonful of flour In the butter, add three-fourths of a cup of stock and a fourth of a cup of cream.. Boll up. add the kid ney, and season with salt, pepper, cay enne, a very little mace or nutmeg, a dash of lemon Juice and, if approved,, a spoonful or two of sherry. This" may be served in ramekins or in patty or tlmbale cases, or, quite simply, on toast, and Is a quick and easy .daiDty for preparation on the chafing dish. I have recently seen It make a suc cessful appearance as the filling for hot pop-overs, which had been opened at the side, cream-puff fashion. But this might not suit all tastes or all digestions. Lamb or veal kidneys are also very good served "en brochette," as former ly described for liver. It is quite pos sible to use beef kidney for kidney stew or ragout, or for the beefsteak and kidney pudding already mentioned; but in order to avoid the strong fla vor, beef kidney should always receive a preliminary soaking of not less than an hour In milk, either sweet or sour, or vinegar and water. Give a second washing before cutting them up and sprinkling with pepper, salt, lemon Juice and a touch of "herb powder" or pourtry spice. A good ragout is made as follows: For one pound of kidney fry four sliced onions in four tablespoonfuls of drippings. When slightly brown, add the cut up kidney; cover closely and stew gently about 20 minutes. Drain off the fat; add one and a half cups of tomato puree, a teaspoon of mustard, a tablespoonful of lemon Juice and the same of chopped parsley; and either serve at once In a browned potato border, or set away in the fireless cooker, or over the simmerer, for the long, slow cooking previously recom mended. If served at once, a little minced ham or fried Julienne shreds of bacon would be a good addition. If the long, slow method Is adopted, equal parts of kidney and cubes of beef steak could be used. The tough, "dur able" kind of beefsteak would do for this, as the stewing will soften the connective tissue and prevent Its being "tooth-proof." Other variations would be the sub stitution of rice, macaroni or green vegetable puree and toast points, for the potato border. Or a rich brown sauce, piquante sauce, poivrade or provencale sauce could be used Instead of the tomato puree. The tradtlonal English beefsteak pudding Is made in a bowl lined with "suet crust." the formula for which Is "one pound of flour to half a pound finely shredded suet, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of salt and cold water to make a stiff paste' The lined "pudding bowl" is then tilled with small, neat pieces of beefsteak and kidney (two - parts of the former to one of the .latter Is a popular proportion), which is seasoned simply with pepper and salt, slightly moistened with stock or water, covered with a paste lid. tied In a scalded cloth sprinkled with flour, and steamed for about Ave hours. It is turned out of the bowl before appearing at table. Those who have not the patience for this long but admirable method may like "steak and kidney pie," where the meat is three parts cooked before be ing covered with biscuit crust or short pie crust. Or the beef can be cut thin and packed In the pie In rolls with a morsel of kidney and a tiny Bhred of onion In each roll. The disbshould be piled high and have a little cup tn the center to collect the gray and pre vent boiling over in the - oven. Long, slow baking is required for this, so a "biscuit jrust' is less satisfactory than a "pie crust" for this purpose. A "lightning" pie can be made bv filling the dish with tiny balls of hamburger dropped into boiling water and cooked while you are making a "baking-powder biscuit" paste. Fill the dish with the hot meat balls and chopped, (raw) veal or lamb kidney; season nicely, using the water the balls were cooked In for gravy. Clap on a half-Inch crust and hustle into a rather quick oven. The meat balls arm. kidney will have received Just about the right amount of cooking (provided the pie Is not a tremendous ly large one) by the time the biscuit crust Is risen and brown, as a biscuit crust should be. PIANOS AT HALF Graves 6 Co. Forced Out Prices as low as $115, $128, $167, etc.; some terms. In our forced-out sale we have in cluded our entire stock of rented pianos. Some are more or less used, but all in excellent condition. There are also a number only used a few months, and just as good as new in every particular. Prices have been reduced below even factory cost. A splendid full sized mahogany case upright, sold everywhere for $275, now only $115. A choice well-known make, regular $270 value, now goes at $128. An ele gant $335 upright, now only $184. We have' two especially fine very latest style uprights, strictly high grade standard pianos. . One in ma hogany and the other in oak. These have only been used a few months in two of Portland's leading homes, and cannot be told from new. vThese same makes are sold in this city by another house for $425 cash. Both will go to the first two buyers at nearly half, or $226 each. An opportunity equal to this never has and likely never will be presented ' again. Don't miss it. Come in at least, and investigate, and to any responsible party who can't pay'all cash we'll extend terms. Come the first thing tomorrow morning. GRAVES & CO. . 328 Washington Street. Sheet Music, Violins, Talking Ma chines and Musical Instruments go at reductions of 20 to 00 per cent. cational institution' of the state a lib eral appropriation, but they consid ered an annual allowance of J125.0OO In excess of the wants of the univerr sity. While no active fight will be made In behalf of the referendum on tho bill, the members of the various unions under tho resolution that has been adopted will be expected to vote against tho increased appropriation. Y. W. C. A. RALLY TODAY Special Service Will Be Held at White Temple This Afternoon. That the Youngr Women's Christian As sociation 1 supplementary to the best lnterefits of Portland . has been shown in many ways. The traveling public has discovered it through the depot worker, 4000 heingr served by her last year. That employers And the association helpful is proven by the S65 employes placed through that department. One of the most Im portant relationships sustained by the association Is that to the churches. This has not received the publicity which is warranted by the co-operation between them. Hence there will be an enthusi astic rallying today to this end, and the public will have opportunity to hear the opinion of the ministers of the city re garding the 'work. One of the speakers is to be Dr. Wil liam F. Coburn, a Yale University man, who has been conducting with marked success several bible classes at the as sociation for the past two weeks. Some aunouncements will be made regarding the new building at this time. This ser vice Is to be at the White Temple at 3 o'clock this afternoon. It is not often that men can attend association functions, so this will be their opportunity to hear of the splendid work done by the young women. The programme will be as fol lows: Soprano, with violin obit Raft Mrs. MHUe Perkins Violin solo Miss Cornelia Barker Vocal solo Jha Claire Montelth Mtas Alda BrouRhton, accompanist. Three to five-minute talks will be given as follow: Mtw Hrlen Hutchinson "The Religious De partment of tho Awociaiton." Ir. Hrougher "The Association as a Fac tor In "Rendering; Democratic Relations Among Women." I r. Dj-ot t The A moo tat ton ao the Insti tut tonal Port of the Chimh Life," Rev. B. S. Mucklcy "The Pasture Oppor tunity In the Association." Dr. Tllram W. Koulkea ''Co-operation with th Church." Ir. Hrnlamln Younx "The Association u a lYalnirg i 'enter fr Chimb Worker." Pr. William F. (Vburn "Possibilities of Association HlMe Ola; Work." Hex. Ieaa "Th Value of the Young Tnin to the Church." Rev. A. W. Wi;-n and IT. GeorRp R. Van Waters- will tnk' part tn tho service. UNIONS REFUSE SUPPORT Address on Art of Illumination. The lertm-G aul demonstration on the 'Art of Illnmtuatton." Riven on Thursday evening laat by Gorg-e F. Holman. be fore the Arts and Crafts SoWoty of Port land, attracted a number of the art en thusiasts of this city. The lecture was historical and descriptive in character; starting with the crude attempts of tho early Egyptians In that direction with papyrus leaves and black and red ink, through the. artistic eras of Greece,, the Roman empire and the Orient. T'.ie il luminations of the Middle Ages, when tho art reached its hiKhest perfection, wero described in a most thorough and interesting- manner. The lecture, proper, con cludets with a description of a most re markable series of illumined parchments done within the last tew years by Leoni, an Italian illuminator, and n6w owned by John Wanamaker. Following the lecture. Mr. Holman gavo a talk on the materials necessary to this art, describing their use and making fre quent illustrations on the blackboard, designing and executing a sample illu mination a quotation from Rmerson, on the board, showinjc the manner of pro ceeding in laying out and executing the work. Although the lecture and demon stration were rather long, the audienr showed its interest by remaining after the conclusion and examining several books which had been illumint-d by Mr. Holman. Consider Proposed University Ap propriation Too Large. Organized labor of Portland will not support the bill Increasing the appro priation for the State University to $125,000 per annum. At a meeting of the Federated Trades Council Friday night, Eugene Palmer, of Albany, who has been prominent In directing the agitation against the measure, ad dressed the delegates of the various trades unions, attacking the appropri ation, which he declared was excessive. Following the address by Mr. Palmer the Council adopted a motion agreeing to sustain the referendum that has been called on the bill and which will be voted at the June election. In discussing the action of the Trades Council yesterday a prominent member of the organization said that the union men of this city were not opposed to granting the, leading ed-u- KAISER PLANS PAGEANT Will Produce Great Ballet Ensemble at Berlin. BERLIN,. March 14. Turning from the acts of war to those of peace, the Em peror is to be . seen again' as a producer of a pageant. Preparation are proceeding under the personal direction of the Kaiser for the production at the Berlin Royal opera of a sumptuous ballet-ensemble founded upon Lord Byron's poet tragedy, "Sardanapa lus." dealing with the life and death of the famous King of Nineveh and As syria, who reigned 668 to 606 B. C. The world's greatest Assyrlologists wili be invited to attend the first performance as the Emperor's guests. His Majesty's purpose is that the . ballet shall be of enduring educational value. In order that the production may be characterized by ancient Oriental splendor and accurate in historical detail, a corps of special Investigators, under the super vision of Professor Delitzsch, Germany's greatest Babylonian scholar, is busily at work, both in Berlin and Babylon, com pleting an elaborate set of drawings, from which the costumes and scenic acces sories will be designed. No expense is to bo snared In reproducing every detail as nearly like the ancient original as possible, especially the gorgeous raiment of the period. Byron's tragedy is founded on the ac count given by Diodorus Eiculus, the world's first historian, of the latter days of King Sardanapalus, who, though a weak, effeminate monarch, maintained a MONDAY MARCH 23 Yon are- invited to tali and in spect the most eoinplete line of ladies' tailored : " ) suits ever shown at popular prices ' cJ : r-1 . a i a hi MATTHEW GEVURT2T 141S1XTH STREET C0R.ALDER OPP OREGONIAN SPRING OPENING 1908 E x p o sitioa of fashion tenden cies in women's suits, waists, skirts and silk dresses and suits Ladies, we take particular pleasure in announcing our complete readiness to reveal to you the correct expressions for Spring; and Summer in women's moderate and high-class apparel, in all lines. We have explored the most reliable markets and spared no energy" in our efforts to select the styles that are most practical and elegant. The result is a collection of modern and classic simplicity that we believe will please and satisfy the most exacting patron. We hope to demonstrate during this opening the fact that we have prepared more extensively than any previous season for the demands of our trade and are now ready for your Invasion. A Genuine Suit Sensation 500 Tailor-Made Suits, the cream of the Spring styles. On sale Monday at prices that will indisputably establish our supremacy for Suit -values. Our buyer, on his recent trip to New York, contracted for these suits from several of the foremost manufacturers of ladies' garments, in quantities that he secured most liberal price concessions. The styles are the very popular Butterfly, Merry Widow, Princess Chap and Cutaway, in all new colorings and combinations, including russets, taas, brown, blues, Copen hagen and leather shades. The saving on this purchase enables us to offer the best collec tion of women's and misses' tailored suits in the city at the price. : (ilk SUITS AT $25.00 Tailor-made Suits, materials of all-wool Rajah, plain ' panamas, white wool serge and fancy mixtures, an excellent assort ment of separate styles. Jackets nicely trimmed and satin lined, skirts plain or trimmed to match jackets. Regular J3a.0O Suits.' Sale price 825. OO SUITS RANGING $29 TQ $60 Also "a very fine selection of all tlic new styles of Spring Suits, plain silk jackets with combina tion skirts, voile suit, striped Panama and a grand assortment of only one of a kind. Prices range sin.oo. SKi.no. S.rS.OO, $45.00. $49.00, $55.00 S60.00 Courteous treat ment by experi enced salespeople. FiUings .given by one most expert in the work. Alter ations made in a light, sanitary workroom, by skilled mechanics. Garments finished and deliver ed. promptly at hour promised. All this we give, and by so doing gain your confidence and confidence i3 the backbone of a solid business. See window display for the new Suits that arrived Saturday. CREDIT EXTENDED TO RELIABLE PEOPLE miw fWMft xmi WAISTS New arrivals in lawn, lingerie, silk and net Waists, embodying all the new features, at from . .95 to 25.00 LATEST AND BEST NOVELTIES IN SKIRTS Every new make in pleat ed or gored, at from $4.95 to $27.50. NEW ARRIVALS IN SILK SUITS All the new colors, at from $7.95 to $60.00 court of effulgent -splendor, and occas ionally roe to great.' noble -deeds:' The action revolves around the rebellion against Sardanapalus led by Arbaces, the Mede. who aspired to the Assyrian throne. Besides these ,two figures, a conspicuous role will be that of Myrrha, the Ionian slave and favorite of Sardanapalus. The grand climax is the storming of the King palace By Axbaces- - noraes. The King, - finding his position hopeless, decided to cheat the conqueror by perisn ing upon his throne, and l aving sur rendered alll his treasure he proceeds to burn himself and wives to death to the accompaniment of a wild, weird dance. Myrrha refuses to part from Barda napalus. and as the curtain descends she flings herself madly upon the buruing pyre. The ballet, which, will occupy the entire evening, will consist of a series ot gor geous stage settings, one of which will be a magnificent banquet-hall scene at the palace of Nineveh. The Kaiser was induced to plan the pageant largely because of the great suc cess which has attended his production of Verdi's "Alda" at the Royal opera this season,, the costumes and scenery of which are based upon the Egyptian orig. lnals. Tuileries Gardens the other afternoon. When the pointed yoko, a wooden peg-top-shaped instrument, fell on him and broke his nose. The crowd shouted with glee, and this made Tartarin so angry that he ran amuck among them, and, tying his yoko to the cord, swung it round and round.' breaking one man's leg and badly hurting another. He Is in prison. Annual Cattle Quarantine. WASHINGTON. March 21. The De partment of : Agriculture today an nounced the annual quarantine against I the interstate shipment of cattle from the 14 states in which splenetic. South ern or Texas fever .exists. The quar antine is effective April 1. The quar antined area includes parts of Cali fornia. 1 Demonstration Goes Amiss. , PARIS. March II. (Special.) Louis Tar tarin, the Inventor of a new diabolo game called yoko, was demonstrating in the 51 JK 'jiiiiWWji.'ui.ii.iililililjiitrw "GARLAND" GAS RANGES "We have just received a carload of " Garland " Gas Ranges, which includes many different styles and pat terns, ranging in price from $11.00 for the single-oven, three-burner stove, to $125.00 for our combination three-oven range. More gas ranges are now being sold and used than ever, but people realize that in the Garlands they have reached 'as near perfection as pos sible. Gas stove buyers are fast learning that th4 "Garland" trade-mark stands for superiority. Tests made between coal ranges and gas ranges have showed surprising results. In a test of both, the loss with a coal range was 2 pounds and 15 ounces, and with our gas range the loss was only 1 pound and 9 ounces. On an average meal, the loss of nutritive properties in foods, when cooked over a coal range, was 30 per cent, against 16 per cent loss by our gas range. There can be but one best, and we ciaim that "Garland" Gas Ranges are the real best. We wish especially to call your attention to our new elevated oven and boiler, as per cut shown. This con struction is sure to prove the most convenient for the operator. Saves stooping and back-breaking, and is the highest grade and best specialty before the public more economical in the consumption of fuel than any gas stove made, a feature which must appeal to any buyer. Our price on this stove, 16-in. oven, $37.00. HONEYMAN HARDWARE COMPANY p n n m r n r T7 c n tt n t n a i.t a T n d tj c T1 t r? i? t c m m m ft M M r I V " I V I - I MM J- A M I .J I "j 'j il , MAIL ORDERS Received Now from Both IN AND OUT OF TOWN l FORi SEASON TICKETS S CONCERTS for $5.00 PORTLAND'S BIG ANNUAL Musical Festival -AT THE ARMORY APRIL 10, 11 and 12 CHICAGO SYMPHONY 65 ORCHESTRA 65 idoIpb Roaenbecker, Conductor. 4 VOCAL SOLOISTS 4 lO InatruiiirHtml Soloists lO 300 CHORUS 300 FRIDAY NIGHT. Grand Orchestra Concert and "FAIR EI.LEN," By Max Brurh. Story of th Siege of Lucknow. SATURDAY AFTERNOON. Popular Orchestra Concert. SATURDAY MGHT, , Grand Orchestra Concert and "The Swan and the Skylark," By A. Gorlnt; Thomas. SUNDAY AFTERNOON, Grand Orchestra Concert and THK MESSIAH," By Handel. SUNDAY NIGHT, Grand Orchestra Concert, with Vocal ' and Instrumental ' Soloists. SEASON TICKETS 5 EACH, Good for-Five Different Concerts In Any Location Desired. PRICES Evenings and Sunday A fternoon lxwer Floor, JS3-00, l.frO. $1.00. Bal cony, $2.00. $1.50, Saturday Matinee. 23c 50C. 75c- MAIL ORDERS RECEIVED From This City and Out of Town. Mail order for Season Tickets re ceived March 20. For one, two or more concert (not season), received March 27. Regular Window Sale opens April 3. lOS. HOW TO ORDER SEATS. Address letters, make checks and money orders payable to W. T. Panrle. Managrer Heilis; Theater, Portland. Oregon. Inclose self-addressed stamped envelope to insure safe return. Season Orders take precedence over all other orders. ARE YOU USING AN ELECTRIC TOASTER? I It is the daintiest and most serviceable Electric Convenience that has been designed for the house hold. With it, you can make breakfast toast at the table arid serve it as desired, piping hot. . Price of Electric Toaster Witfi Equipment $4.00 All JThe company cordially invites the ladies, and gentlemen, too, who are interested, to attend the demonstrations of Electric Cooking' and Heating Devices, which will be given in the warerooms of the Supply Department, 145-147 Seventh street, every Friday afternoon from 1 to 5 o'clock. Dainties prepared by an expert, with electric utensils, will be served. RKWTNO MACHINE MOTORS COFFEK PEBCOMTOIl MILK WARMERS FRYING PA8 BREAD TOASTERS PORTABLE I. A MI'S HEATING PADS ELECTRIC CCRLINO TROX HKATEXJ9 CHAFTKO DI.1HF.8 AIK KEATEBI SMOOTHING IRONS COOKING OUT1US PORTLAND RAILWAY, LIGHT S POWER CO. SUPPLY DEPARTMENT 145-147 Seventh St., Bet. Morrison and Alder Gall Telephones Main 6688, A5517 for Information