THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, MARCH 22, I90S.
SOME APPETIZING METHODS OF
COOKING AND SERVING KIDNEYS
Lilian Tingle Tells of Some Choice Entrees, and Breakfast or Luncheon
' Dishes.' ''
BY UUAM TINOL4E.
ALTHOUGH there are quite a num
ber of people who refuse to eat
beef, veal or mutton kidneys in
any form, there are many more who
enjoy the variety afforded by the oc
casional use of these organs as food;
and there are several choice entrees
and breakfast or luncheon dishes, high
ly eateemed by epicures. In which kid
neys, especially those of lamb and
mutton, are the chief attraction.
Care In selection is necessary, for
kidneys must be perfectly fresh and
sound or they are very unwholesome
and tho cooking of them is a matter
that also needs some special care and
knowledge. The chief thing to re
member Is that kidneys should be
cooked for a few minute only, or for
several hours. It Is a case of opposite
extremes in treatment. When Just
"set" they are deliclously tender, but
if overhoated, they harden, and can
only be softened again by long, slow
cooking. Hence the most successful
dishe aro broiled kidneys or kidney
saute, or kidney stew and that old
fashioned English dish, celobrated by
Dickens and Thackeray, beefsteak and
kidney pudding.
For broiling, lamb or mutton kid
neys are generally used. Sometimes
the kidney is sliced straight across
Jiuit as it lies embedded ' in' the suet;
sometimes, after skinning and trim
ming, tho kidneys are split so that
they open like a hook, and are then
skewered firm and flat with a tiny
skewer. In each (rase they should be
dipped In salad oil or melted butter
and carefully seasoned with pepper
and salt and a pinch of herb powder
If liked, or with cayenne and mustard
if "deviled kidneys" are deired. For
the latter the hot seasonings are often
mixed with fine bread or cracker
crumbs, and the oiled or buttered kid
neys are dipped into this. After broil
ing, the skewers are removed and the
kidneys are transferred to oblong crou
tons or pieces of toast; and & pat of
maltra d'hotel or other savory butter,
or a spoonful of auce such as tartare
or bornaise is placed in the hollow of
each kidney. A piece of curled baron
Is also a good accompaniment for each
portion. When served as an entree,
utewed celery, tomatoes or mushrooms
are useful accessories, but whatever
tho "fixings," the kidneys themselves
. must be nicely seasoned and very hot,
though not over cooked.
For "kidney saute" the kidneys,
skinned and trimmed, are cut into
small pieces and tossed, until set, in
a spoonful or two of nut butter. A
poonful of very finely chopped onion
or a few mushrooms, according to
your taste or resources, may be
cooked in the butter before the sliced
kidneys are added. In order to avoid
overcooking, it . Is safest to remove
tho latter while sauce is being made
and thickened. Cook a spoonful of
flour In the butter, add three-fourths
of a cup of stock and a fourth of a
cup of cream.. Boll up. add the kid
ney, and season with salt, pepper, cay
enne, a very little mace or nutmeg, a
dash of lemon Juice and, if approved,,
a spoonful or two of sherry. This"
may be served in ramekins or in patty
or tlmbale cases, or, quite simply, on
toast, and Is a quick and easy .daiDty
for preparation on the chafing dish.
I have recently seen It make a suc
cessful appearance as the filling for
hot pop-overs, which had been opened
at the side, cream-puff fashion. But
this might not suit all tastes or all
digestions.
Lamb or veal kidneys are also very
good served "en brochette," as former
ly described for liver. It is quite pos
sible to use beef kidney for kidney
stew or ragout, or for the beefsteak
and kidney pudding already mentioned;
but in order to avoid the strong fla
vor, beef kidney should always receive
a preliminary soaking of not less than
an hour In milk, either sweet or sour,
or vinegar and water. Give a second
washing before cutting them up and
sprinkling with pepper, salt, lemon
Juice and a touch of "herb powder"
or pourtry spice.
A good ragout is made as follows:
For one pound of kidney fry four
sliced onions in four tablespoonfuls of
drippings. When slightly brown, add
the cut up kidney; cover closely and
stew gently about 20 minutes. Drain
off the fat; add one and a half cups
of tomato puree, a teaspoon of mustard,
a tablespoonful of lemon Juice and the
same of chopped parsley; and either
serve at once In a browned potato
border, or set away in the fireless
cooker, or over the simmerer, for the
long, slow cooking previously recom
mended. If served at once, a little
minced ham or fried Julienne shreds
of bacon would be a good addition. If
the long, slow method Is adopted, equal
parts of kidney and cubes of beef
steak could be used. The tough, "dur
able" kind of beefsteak would do for
this, as the stewing will soften the
connective tissue and prevent Its being
"tooth-proof."
Other variations would be the sub
stitution of rice, macaroni or green
vegetable puree and toast points, for
the potato border. Or a rich brown
sauce, piquante sauce, poivrade or
provencale sauce could be used Instead
of the tomato puree.
The tradtlonal English beefsteak
pudding Is made in a bowl lined with
"suet crust." the formula for which
Is "one pound of flour to half a pound
finely shredded suet, two teaspoonfuls
of baking powder, one teaspoonful of
salt and cold water to make a stiff
paste' The lined "pudding bowl" is
then tilled with small, neat pieces of
beefsteak and kidney (two - parts of
the former to one of the .latter Is a
popular proportion), which is seasoned
simply with pepper and salt, slightly
moistened with stock or water, covered
with a paste lid. tied In a scalded
cloth sprinkled with flour, and steamed
for about Ave hours. It is turned out
of the bowl before appearing at table.
Those who have not the patience for
this long but admirable method may
like "steak and kidney pie," where the
meat is three parts cooked before be
ing covered with biscuit crust or short
pie crust. Or the beef can be cut thin
and packed In the pie In rolls with a
morsel of kidney and a tiny Bhred of
onion In each roll. The disbshould be
piled high and have a little cup tn the
center to collect the gray and pre
vent boiling over in the - oven. Long,
slow baking is required for this, so
a "biscuit jrust' is less satisfactory
than a "pie crust" for this purpose.
A "lightning" pie can be made bv
filling the dish with tiny balls of
hamburger dropped into boiling water
and cooked while you are making a
"baking-powder biscuit" paste. Fill
the dish with the hot meat balls and
chopped, (raw) veal or lamb kidney;
season nicely, using the water the
balls were cooked In for gravy. Clap
on a half-Inch crust and hustle into a
rather quick oven. The meat balls
arm. kidney will have received Just
about the right amount of cooking
(provided the pie Is not a tremendous
ly large one) by the time the biscuit
crust Is risen and brown, as a biscuit
crust should be.
PIANOS AT HALF
Graves 6 Co. Forced Out
Prices as low as $115, $128, $167,
etc.; some terms.
In our forced-out sale we have in
cluded our entire stock of rented
pianos. Some are more or less used,
but all in excellent condition. There
are also a number only used a few
months, and just as good as new in
every particular.
Prices have been reduced below
even factory cost. A splendid full
sized mahogany case upright, sold
everywhere for $275, now only $115.
A choice well-known make, regular
$270 value, now goes at $128. An ele
gant $335 upright, now only $184.
We have' two especially fine very
latest style uprights, strictly high
grade standard pianos. . One in ma
hogany and the other in oak. These
have only been used a few months in
two of Portland's leading homes, and
cannot be told from new. vThese same
makes are sold in this city by another
house for $425 cash. Both will go to
the first two buyers at nearly half, or
$226 each. An opportunity equal to
this never has and likely never will
be presented ' again. Don't miss it.
Come in at least, and investigate, and
to any responsible party who can't
pay'all cash we'll extend terms.
Come the first thing tomorrow
morning.
GRAVES & CO.
. 328 Washington Street.
Sheet Music, Violins, Talking Ma
chines and Musical Instruments go
at reductions of 20 to 00 per cent.
cational institution' of the state a lib
eral appropriation, but they consid
ered an annual allowance of J125.0OO
In excess of the wants of the univerr
sity. While no active fight will be
made In behalf of the referendum on
tho bill, the members of the various
unions under tho resolution that has
been adopted will be expected to vote
against tho increased appropriation.
Y. W. C. A. RALLY TODAY
Special Service Will Be Held at
White Temple This Afternoon.
That the Youngr Women's Christian As
sociation 1 supplementary to the best
lnterefits of Portland . has been shown in
many ways. The traveling public has
discovered it through the depot worker,
4000 heingr served by her last year. That
employers And the association helpful is
proven by the S65 employes placed through
that department. One of the most Im
portant relationships sustained by the
association Is that to the churches. This
has not received the publicity which is
warranted by the co-operation between
them. Hence there will be an enthusi
astic rallying today to this end, and the
public will have opportunity to hear the
opinion of the ministers of the city re
garding the 'work.
One of the speakers is to be Dr. Wil
liam F. Coburn, a Yale University man,
who has been conducting with marked
success several bible classes at the as
sociation for the past two weeks. Some
aunouncements will be made regarding
the new building at this time. This ser
vice Is to be at the White Temple at 3
o'clock this afternoon. It is not often
that men can attend association functions,
so this will be their opportunity to hear
of the splendid work done by the young
women. The programme will be as fol
lows: Soprano, with violin obit Raft
Mrs. MHUe Perkins
Violin solo Miss Cornelia Barker
Vocal solo Jha Claire Montelth
Mtas Alda BrouRhton, accompanist.
Three to five-minute talks will be given
as follow:
Mtw Hrlen Hutchinson "The Religious De
partment of tho Awociaiton."
Ir. Hrougher "The Association as a Fac
tor In "Rendering; Democratic Relations Among
Women."
I r. Dj-ot t The A moo tat ton ao the Insti
tut tonal Port of the Chimh Life,"
Rev. B. S. Mucklcy "The Pasture Oppor
tunity In the Association."
Dr. Tllram W. Koulkea ''Co-operation with
th Church."
Ir. Hrnlamln Younx "The Association u
a lYalnirg i 'enter fr Chimb Worker."
Pr. William F. (Vburn "Possibilities of
Association HlMe Ola; Work."
Hex. Ieaa "Th Value of the Young
Tnin to the Church."
Rev. A. W. Wi;-n and IT. GeorRp R.
Van Waters- will tnk' part tn tho service.
UNIONS REFUSE SUPPORT
Address on Art of Illumination.
The lertm-G aul demonstration on the
'Art of Illnmtuatton." Riven on Thursday
evening laat by Gorg-e F. Holman. be
fore the Arts and Crafts SoWoty of Port
land, attracted a number of the art en
thusiasts of this city. The lecture was
historical and descriptive in character;
starting with the crude attempts of tho
early Egyptians In that direction with
papyrus leaves and black and red ink,
through the. artistic eras of Greece,, the
Roman empire and the Orient. T'.ie il
luminations of the Middle Ages, when tho
art reached its hiKhest perfection, wero
described in a most thorough and interesting-
manner. The lecture, proper, con
cludets with a description of a most re
markable series of illumined parchments
done within the last tew years by Leoni,
an Italian illuminator, and n6w owned
by John Wanamaker.
Following the lecture. Mr. Holman gavo
a talk on the materials necessary to this
art, describing their use and making fre
quent illustrations on the blackboard,
designing and executing a sample illu
mination a quotation from Rmerson, on
the board, showinjc the manner of pro
ceeding in laying out and executing the
work. Although the lecture and demon
stration were rather long, the audienr
showed its interest by remaining after
the conclusion and examining several
books which had been illumint-d by Mr.
Holman.
Consider Proposed University Ap
propriation Too Large.
Organized labor of Portland will not
support the bill Increasing the appro
priation for the State University to
$125,000 per annum. At a meeting of
the Federated Trades Council Friday
night, Eugene Palmer, of Albany, who
has been prominent In directing the
agitation against the measure, ad
dressed the delegates of the various
trades unions, attacking the appropri
ation, which he declared was excessive.
Following the address by Mr. Palmer
the Council adopted a motion agreeing
to sustain the referendum that has
been called on the bill and which will
be voted at the June election.
In discussing the action of the
Trades Council yesterday a prominent
member of the organization said that
the union men of this city were not
opposed to granting the, leading ed-u-
KAISER PLANS PAGEANT
Will Produce Great Ballet Ensemble
at Berlin.
BERLIN,. March 14. Turning from the
acts of war to those of peace, the Em
peror is to be . seen again' as a producer
of a pageant.
Preparation are proceeding under the
personal direction of the Kaiser for the
production at the Berlin Royal opera of a
sumptuous ballet-ensemble founded upon
Lord Byron's poet tragedy, "Sardanapa
lus." dealing with the life and death of
the famous King of Nineveh and As
syria, who reigned 668 to 606 B. C.
The world's greatest Assyrlologists wili
be invited to attend the first performance
as the Emperor's guests. His Majesty's
purpose is that the . ballet shall be of
enduring educational value.
In order that the production may be
characterized by ancient Oriental splendor
and accurate in historical detail, a corps
of special Investigators, under the super
vision of Professor Delitzsch, Germany's
greatest Babylonian scholar, is busily at
work, both in Berlin and Babylon, com
pleting an elaborate set of drawings, from
which the costumes and scenic acces
sories will be designed. No expense is
to bo snared In reproducing every detail
as nearly like the ancient original as
possible, especially the gorgeous raiment
of the period.
Byron's tragedy is founded on the ac
count given by Diodorus Eiculus, the
world's first historian, of the latter days
of King Sardanapalus, who, though a
weak, effeminate monarch, maintained a
MONDAY
MARCH
23
Yon are- invited
to tali and in
spect the most
eoinplete line of
ladies' tailored
: " )
suits ever shown
at popular prices
' cJ : r-1 . a i a hi
MATTHEW GEVURT2T
141S1XTH STREET C0R.ALDER OPP OREGONIAN
SPRING
OPENING
1908
E x p o sitioa of
fashion tenden
cies in women's
suits, waists,
skirts and silk
dresses and suits
Ladies, we take particular pleasure in announcing our complete readiness to reveal to you the correct expressions for Spring; and
Summer in women's moderate and high-class apparel, in all lines. We have explored the most reliable markets and spared no energy"
in our efforts to select the styles that are most practical and elegant. The result is a collection of modern and classic simplicity
that we believe will please and satisfy the most exacting patron. We hope to demonstrate during this opening the fact that we
have prepared more extensively than any previous season for the demands of our trade and are now ready for your Invasion.
A Genuine Suit Sensation
500 Tailor-Made Suits, the cream of the Spring styles. On sale Monday at
prices that will indisputably establish our supremacy for Suit -values.
Our buyer, on his recent trip to New York, contracted for these suits from several of the
foremost manufacturers of ladies' garments, in quantities that he secured most liberal price
concessions. The styles are the very popular Butterfly, Merry Widow, Princess Chap and
Cutaway, in all new colorings and combinations, including russets, taas, brown, blues, Copen
hagen and leather shades. The saving on this purchase enables us to offer the best collec
tion of women's and misses' tailored suits in the city at the price.
: (ilk
SUITS AT $25.00
Tailor-made Suits, materials of
all-wool Rajah, plain ' panamas,
white wool serge and fancy
mixtures, an excellent assort
ment of separate styles. Jackets
nicely trimmed and satin lined,
skirts plain or trimmed to match
jackets. Regular J3a.0O Suits.'
Sale price 825. OO
SUITS RANGING $29
TQ $60
Also "a very fine selection of all
tlic new styles of Spring Suits,
plain silk jackets with combina
tion skirts, voile suit, striped
Panama and a grand assortment
of only one of a kind. Prices
range sin.oo. SKi.no.
S.rS.OO, $45.00. $49.00,
$55.00 S60.00
Courteous treat
ment by experi
enced salespeople.
FiUings .given by
one most expert in
the work. Alter
ations made in a
light, sanitary
workroom, by
skilled mechanics.
Garments finished
and deliver ed.
promptly at hour promised. All this we give, and by so doing gain
your confidence and confidence i3 the backbone of a solid business.
See window display for the new Suits that arrived Saturday.
CREDIT EXTENDED TO RELIABLE PEOPLE
miw fWMft xmi
WAISTS
New arrivals in lawn,
lingerie, silk and net
Waists, embodying all
the new features, at
from . .95 to 25.00
LATEST AND BEST
NOVELTIES IN SKIRTS
Every new make in pleat
ed or gored, at from $4.95
to $27.50.
NEW ARRIVALS IN SILK SUITS
All the new colors, at from $7.95 to $60.00
court of effulgent -splendor, and occas
ionally roe to great.' noble -deeds:'
The action revolves around the rebellion
against Sardanapalus led by Arbaces, the
Mede. who aspired to the Assyrian throne.
Besides these ,two figures, a conspicuous
role will be that of Myrrha, the Ionian
slave and favorite of Sardanapalus.
The grand climax is the storming of
the King palace By Axbaces- - noraes.
The King, - finding his position hopeless,
decided to cheat the conqueror by perisn
ing upon his throne, and l aving sur
rendered alll his treasure he proceeds to
burn himself and wives to death to the
accompaniment of a wild, weird dance.
Myrrha refuses to part from Barda
napalus. and as the curtain descends she
flings herself madly upon the buruing
pyre.
The ballet, which, will occupy the entire
evening, will consist of a series ot gor
geous stage settings, one of which will
be a magnificent banquet-hall scene at the
palace of Nineveh.
The Kaiser was induced to plan the
pageant largely because of the great suc
cess which has attended his production
of Verdi's "Alda" at the Royal opera
this season,, the costumes and scenery of
which are based upon the Egyptian orig.
lnals.
Tuileries Gardens the other afternoon.
When the pointed yoko, a wooden peg-top-shaped
instrument, fell on him and
broke his nose. The crowd shouted with
glee, and this made Tartarin so angry
that he ran amuck among them, and,
tying his yoko to the cord, swung it round
and round.' breaking one man's leg and
badly hurting another. He Is in prison.
Annual Cattle Quarantine.
WASHINGTON. March 21. The De
partment of : Agriculture today an
nounced the annual quarantine against I
the interstate shipment of cattle from
the 14 states in which splenetic. South
ern or Texas fever .exists. The quar
antine is effective April 1. The quar
antined area includes parts of Cali
fornia. 1
Demonstration Goes Amiss.
, PARIS. March II. (Special.) Louis Tar
tarin, the Inventor of a new diabolo game
called yoko, was demonstrating in the
51
JK 'jiiiiWWji.'ui.ii.iililililjiitrw
"GARLAND" GAS
RANGES
"We have just received a carload of " Garland " Gas
Ranges, which includes many different styles and pat
terns, ranging in price from $11.00 for the single-oven,
three-burner stove, to $125.00 for our combination
three-oven range. More gas ranges are now being sold
and used than ever, but people realize that in the
Garlands they have reached 'as near perfection as pos
sible. Gas stove buyers are fast learning that th4
"Garland" trade-mark stands for superiority. Tests
made between coal ranges and gas ranges have showed
surprising results. In a test of both, the loss with a
coal range was 2 pounds and 15 ounces, and with our
gas range the loss was only 1 pound and 9 ounces. On an average meal, the loss
of nutritive properties in foods, when cooked over a coal range, was 30 per cent,
against 16 per cent loss by our gas range. There can be but one best, and we
ciaim that "Garland" Gas Ranges are the real best. We wish especially to call
your attention to our new elevated oven and boiler, as per cut shown. This con
struction is sure to prove the most convenient for the operator. Saves stooping
and back-breaking, and is the highest grade and best specialty before the public
more economical in the consumption of fuel than any gas stove made, a feature
which must appeal to any buyer. Our price on this stove, 16-in. oven, $37.00.
HONEYMAN HARDWARE
COMPANY
p n n m r n r T7 c n tt n t n a i.t a T n d tj c T1 t r? i? t c
m m m ft M M r I V " I V I - I MM J- A M I .J I "j 'j il
,
MAIL ORDERS
Received Now from Both
IN AND OUT OF TOWN
l FORi
SEASON TICKETS
S CONCERTS for $5.00
PORTLAND'S BIG ANNUAL
Musical Festival
-AT THE ARMORY
APRIL 10, 11 and 12
CHICAGO
SYMPHONY
65 ORCHESTRA 65
idoIpb Roaenbecker, Conductor.
4 VOCAL SOLOISTS 4
lO InatruiiirHtml Soloists lO
300 CHORUS 300
FRIDAY NIGHT.
Grand Orchestra Concert and
"FAIR EI.LEN,"
By Max Brurh. Story of th Siege
of Lucknow.
SATURDAY AFTERNOON.
Popular Orchestra Concert.
SATURDAY MGHT,
, Grand Orchestra Concert and
"The Swan and the Skylark,"
By A. Gorlnt; Thomas.
SUNDAY AFTERNOON,
Grand Orchestra Concert and
THK MESSIAH,"
By Handel.
SUNDAY NIGHT,
Grand Orchestra Concert, with Vocal
' and Instrumental ' Soloists.
SEASON TICKETS 5 EACH,
Good for-Five Different Concerts
In Any Location Desired.
PRICES
Evenings and Sunday A fternoon
lxwer Floor, JS3-00, l.frO. $1.00. Bal
cony, $2.00. $1.50, Saturday Matinee.
23c 50C. 75c-
MAIL ORDERS RECEIVED
From This City and Out of Town.
Mail order for Season Tickets re
ceived March 20. For one, two or
more concert (not season), received
March 27. Regular Window Sale
opens April 3. lOS.
HOW TO ORDER SEATS.
Address letters, make checks and
money orders payable to W. T.
Panrle. Managrer Heilis; Theater,
Portland. Oregon. Inclose self-addressed
stamped envelope to insure
safe return.
Season Orders take precedence over
all other orders.
ARE YOU USING AN
ELECTRIC TOASTER?
I It is the daintiest and most serviceable Electric
Convenience that has been designed for the house
hold. With it, you can make breakfast toast at the
table arid serve it as desired, piping hot. .
Price of Electric Toaster Witfi
Equipment $4.00
All
JThe company cordially invites the ladies, and
gentlemen, too, who are interested, to attend the
demonstrations of Electric Cooking' and Heating
Devices, which will be given in the warerooms of
the Supply Department, 145-147 Seventh street,
every Friday afternoon from 1 to 5 o'clock.
Dainties prepared by an expert, with electric
utensils, will be served.
RKWTNO MACHINE MOTORS
COFFEK PEBCOMTOIl
MILK WARMERS
FRYING PA8
BREAD TOASTERS
PORTABLE I. A MI'S
HEATING PADS
ELECTRIC
CCRLINO TROX HKATEXJ9
CHAFTKO DI.1HF.8
AIK KEATEBI
SMOOTHING IRONS
COOKING OUT1US
PORTLAND RAILWAY,
LIGHT S POWER CO.
SUPPLY DEPARTMENT
145-147 Seventh St., Bet. Morrison and Alder
Gall Telephones Main 6688, A5517 for Information