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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 15, 1908)
THE SUXDAY OKEGOMAX, PORTLAND, 3IAKCII 13, 1908. ' . r Bill KKEgypEwc fXcc r- f. Amms & Peaoty i' Sounding the Note of Fashion AS XEW goods pour In upon the -shop counters, tiic woman of lim ited means becomes bewildered and wonders how to purchase intelligent ly. Htb she sees plaids, there checks, land at another point stripes. What shall sh! choose? And again I say to the woman of mod erate means, "Avoid extremes." Truth to tell, plain goods, plaids, che ks and stripes, all will be worn, and tin- point is to choose that fabric which will best suit the figure. The nep plaids aro not the Scotch tartans or close imi tations thereof, but startling creations in black, white and gray, with borders. They arc so extreme that no woman who must content herself with two street suits, one for every day and one for very best, can afford to consider these daring novelties for one instant. The very stout woman should stick to stripes and make sure that they are made up on correct, straight lines. Only the lender, chic girl can dip into checks of any sise. Kor Spring wear the smartest plain fabric is the new surall serge, which has a very soft, silky finish, and Is most pliable. It looks best when se verely tailored, with touches or braid ing and buttons for the sole trimming. Kor dressy house wear, reception toil ets anil dinner frocks, the new voiles by a, d zen names are moat ' useful. They , Bre flown in the most exquisite color-'-ngR. alf a dozen blues, burnt rose, smoke "olor. brownish and grayish greens, at, an indescribable grav which harmonizes wi,h' yellow. Sometimes tnese voiles arf, plain, sometimes they show a tine strine or shadowy check, and again the- are stamped with tinv dames. Chiffo, panamas and wool batistes with a ,ik taffeta finish ara among the house o-P5a novelties. Print er! mousscJines are -harming for dinner and evening gowns, ,,nd everything is bordered. But the w.man of moderate purse must he careful (n choosing bor dered materials. She wi. be much wiser to choose a border that self-toned or inconspicuous in Its coloring, rather than forming a striking i-mitroiit, as the lat ter marks her as the womm of few flocks, while the iiiconsplcuois border attracts no attention, invites o com ment. Kor instance, on one counter the other lay were shown two holts of goods which illustrate this idea. Both were ponree silk with a border design, the conspicots fabric was or natural toned pongee with a border 13 inches wide, alternating wide iuhI narrow stripes of brown in three shades. The less conspicuous piece was In gray blue, with a border in gray blue ot ihne shades, alternating in wide and narrow stripes. Not all borders are sniped. Some show polka dots In vary ing sizes, some show Vandyke points up turned, or flowers stamped in garlands or even lattice designs. Two of the illustrations today show excellent border designs. Figure A is a house gown or sage green voile, trimmed with bands of messaline. This i.s most inexpensive mode of simulating a border. The plain voile with silkv linish without a border costs $l.o a yard. ,Vllh a stamped border it would cost twice as much. On the other hand, mes caline can .be bought at sales In a good omility for 60 cents a yard, and four yards would be sufficient for folds and girdle. The skirt model, cither for Empire waist line or straight round waist line, requires six yards of double-width voile, while the waist will take fully two yards more. The messaline fols are cut on the bias and the wide and narrow folds at the bottom of the skirt are separate! by Simple Aids for TUB girl wlio has read just enough novels to believe firmly in the po lenry of mysterious violet, melting browti or glowing black eyes, is firmly convinced that her own placid gray, or pfllp bluo eyes, or small hazel orbs doom her to perpetual homeliness. "You cannot change the color of your eyes." she wails. And In a wayt she is right. The shape, the srze and the color of the eye ttsr!f cannot be altered, but the setting or frame can be wonderfully Improved, changing the entire aspect and cxprension of the faro. If you feel dissatisfied with your eyes, study first their actual physical condition and then their frame, which consists of the lids, the lashes and the brows. The appearance of the eye will be ma terially Injured if you are abusing or Ktruiuing it. In the effort to see, you "squint," or draw the two lids together until the eye becomes a mere slit. This habit wf "squintina;" does not help your vision at all. AH oculists will tell you that you secure a better view with the eyes wide open, but If your vision is fail ing for the sake of your nerves, your brain and your personal appearance, have your eyes properly fitted with glasses. This will not only cure you of the habit of "siiuinlinj;." but it will stop the prog ress of crows feet and lines around your eyes. You cannot change the coloring or size of the iris, but you can change and im prove the white portion of the eye. If this lias an ugly yellow look instead of a clear, pearly, or bluish white, nine eases out of ten vim are bilious, and as soon as you clear out your system thoroughly, the heavy look will be reduced and your eyes will be better. , If the white portion of the eye is blood shot, and the tiny little veins are red and inflamed, this is practically a feverish condition, which you can reduce by both internal and external treatment. Inter nally the blood may need thinning. You may be eating too rich food and not tak itiff sufficient exercise. To treat it exter nally, twice a day go Into a darkened ; rom and lay cloths dipped Into very hot i Some Substitutes for f ' 1 IS is tri,ks' weather for the 1 throat, and the K1rl who lays aside - her fur neck-piece at the first sug SeMion of Spring is apt to pay the price in olds. If you feel that the fur piece is now to.t hHy, and that by over heating the throat you invite bronchitis, tonsilitfs and similar afflictions, then substi tute for the fur a practical but lighter protection. b ne of the safest substitutes for fur is a scarf. long, narrow and graceful. These eotue in hoe, silk, wool and creie de chine. Quite stylish now is the oid l.ish!otied broche or cashmere neck scarf f.om eiht to twelve Inches wide and not less than a yard and a half long. The center of the strip Is generally a plain color, white, black, or even oft gray, hut the hunter and ends show complicated conventional patterns in oriental color ings. This scarf is wound t Abe round thu nevk and then thrown over the Flirt rt IVtth I. ace Insets. bars of soutache bra it! in a slightlv deen d shade of green. The square bolero Is trimmed with bias folds and ball trim ming, with a guimpe and narrow cuffs of imitation Irish lace. Only the very slender woman can use the bolero effect in the back and the stout woman should substitute a plain or finely tucked back without the bolero. Figure B displays the possibilities' of met net over silk. This evening pown can be made by any deft-fingered girl who has patience to inset the lace me dallions. Filet net can be bought in wide or narrow mesh and lace for inset ting should be in a close pattern of all over lace. The figures are then cut out and appliqued upon the net in graduated sizes, the large figures at the bottom, the small ones higher up and if a girl can embroider ever so little, she can work little tenurils of silk above the lace bor der. The same robe bought ready-made would cost three or four times the price of the filet net and the lace for inserting. The brctelles are inset with lace to match the border, the skirt fitted over the hips m tine hand-run tucks and the sleeves for evening wear are mere puffs. One oC the important points in making up filM net is the fact that there miAit be worn beneath it first a silk slip and then -over the silk a veiling of thinner material. Chiffon .or monsseline de sole is much used, but it is very perishable. so a point de'esprit can be substituted. A very good combination would be white silk slip, covered with soft point u esprit in blue, and then ecru nef. The bluo should not be the staring china blue nur forget-me-not tint, but a Urlicate pas tel shade. Then the girdle and velvet nooons at neck and sleeve may be of tho blue of the same shade. Another treat ment or met net is darning it with che nine, a typical hiet pattern. iusure L. shows -a stunning morning costume of rough silk with vest and cuffs or neavy lace. These rough silks are im mensely popular this season and to com plete a smart three-piece suit, make a hip icngin jacket ot the same silk heavHy braided. The guimpe and matching sleeves are unquestionably strong fea tures of late Spring and early Summer ratment. MARY DEAN. Attractive Eyes water across your closed eyes. Bathe the eyes once a day with salt water, made with distilled water and" common table salt thoroughly dissolved, or you can use a boric acid wash. Mix ten grains of Doric acid with an ounce of distilled water. The best way to drop this into the eye, or to bathe the eyeball, is to use the eye cup, a tiny glass receptacle with curved edges that fit right around the eyeball. It can be purchased at any drug store for a few cents. Fill the cup almost iuu with the soothing lotion and hold down the head so that the eye fits right into the cup. Now slowly fling back your head, holding the cup in position so that it is inverted and the eyeball Is literally bathed and cleansed. If the lower lid is baggy or puffed, one or two difficulties exist either you have some latent kidney trouble manifested in this condition, or the eyelid is inflamed. To ascertain whether this inflammation exists, stand before your mirror and gen tly turn lower lid over so that you can see the lower lining. If this is scarlet, or Inflamed, or covered with tiny little gran ules, then you may be sure that you are suffering from Inflammation strong enough to cause a swelling. If there is no sign of Inflammation, then the case is one for your physician to investigate. Should it prove to be a symptom of kid ney trouble, while your physician treats you internally, the baggy or flabby flesh under the eye can be gently massaged. If it is a case of inflammation, a very simple remedy is this: Mix ten grains of borax with an ounce of camphor water, understand. . this is camphor water, and not spirits of camphor. Bathe the in flamed eyes with this and use hot water compresses. When the Inflammation has existed for some months and becomes al most chronic, you will need a slightly stronger lotion. 1 will be glad to send the formula for this to any chronic sufferer from inflamed eyelids, but generally the lotion given above is sufficient. Next week we will discuss the eyebrows and lashes, their care and color, but be fore you give thought to this new prob lem I beg of you to look to the health of the eye itself, as suggested In this ar ticle. No unhealthy eye can be beautiful. X PRUDKNt'B STAXDISH. the Fur Neckpieces shoulder, or permitted to hang one end longer than the other in front. Next in popularity Is the heavy silk isearf. in size about the same as th broche or cashmere scarf, preferably in Spanish lace of heavy net with a gulm pure or thread lace border. The crepe d chine scarfs this season are simly fascinating. They show plain centers with oriental forders. or the en tire scarf may be in oriental coloring. This, too, is wrapped twice around the throat. Spring Neckpieces. Very smart this Spring are the Ro man scarfs of very soft silk ribbon in Roman stripes. These have black, white, dark blue and brown for pre dominating shades, with more brilliant hue In the stripes. The thin girl twists this scarf twi'-e around her throat and finishes it with a broad bow SAUK 6REEX in front. The stout girl must let the ends hang Ion?. The tailor-made grlrl is afraid of a scarf of any sort. She prefers a square or three-cornered piece of silk or crepe de chine, which she fits firmly around her linen collar and fastens in the front with a stickpin, tucklns the ends smoothly under her coat. The tailored Birl avoids all "ends" of any sort, even scarf-ends. She can pick up stunning squares of silk, plain, striped or ngrured, in Persian designs and rem nants of crepe de chine, but whatever she or the fluffy girl selects for Spring neck protection must be kept Immacu lately clean. Crepe de chine washes. cashmere, broche and silver can be cleaned with naphtha, but lace scarfs should be sent to a professional cleanser. Delectable Sinking Room. Philadelphia Bulletin. A Persian diplomat, seated on the white beach at Ormond. fanned his moist brow with a Panama. 'The February sun is hot." he said. "Tt recalls faintly to me the heat of Persia. But you have no need of sinkine rooms here." "Sinking rooms?" said the girl in white. "I've heard of sinking funds, but " "You use them In Persia if you" re rich enough in the great heats,' he inter posed. "They're rooms of glass that sink down into the vitreous blue denths of I.ake Niris. Niris, the most beautiful of Persian lakes, is almost crowded with sinking rooms during the hot weather. 'They re very pleasant. You furnish them sumptuously rugs and. pale silk hangings. Ivory carvings and mother-o'-pearl and you take down with you sing ing girls and dancing girls, and girls to serve the sherbet and to fill the hookahs." He sighed. All this, he said, is very pleasant. but 1 would gladly exchange the glare of this hot sun, the smell and dust and roar of these high-powered motor cars, for Iake Niris cool depths, the. vitreous blue light, and the clear laughter of the Cir cassian serving girls." What I lost your fmprr. did you say T Well. dear. I wouldn't mind It. It isn't fuch a dreadful loss Pray do not try to find it. 'Twm not the gentlest, gweetest one. As all can well remember. Who have endured its every whim From New Year's till December. It drove the dinrples all away. And wrinkled up your forehead. And changed a pretty, smiling face To one well, simpiy noma. It put to flight the cheery words. The laughter and the singing- And clouds upon a shining sky It would persist in bringing. And it is gone! Then do. my dear. Make it your best endeavor To quickly find a better one. And lose it never, never i VOILE WITH MESSA IS AD SOUTACHE BRAID. Suggestions for The St. Patrick's day dinner Is by no means limited to families who can trace their history back to the Kmer aUl Isle. It holds such pleasant pros pects for decorations and color schemes that hostesses of all nationalities have begun to feature St. Patrick's day. For a centerpiece, white flowers, particularly tulips, narcissus and hya cinths, may be used with quantities of feathery ferns. All candy and station, ery stores carry Irish souvenirs, such as candy boxes in th Fhape of sham rock leaves, small pipes tied with green ribbons, small pasteboard harps in gilt and "Patty" hats and shillalahs. Entrees and lees may be served in paper cases, covered with green crepe paper. All meat and vegetable dishes map be thickly garnished with parsley or cress, and the green tint can be carried into many dishes. Puree ot Split Peua: An excellent "green" -soup. Soak a cup of green split peas over night. In the morning pour off any water that has not been absorbed and add to the peas four times their quantity In cold water. That is, if the soaked peas measure two cups, then you must add eight cups of, water. Add also half an onion, sliced, to each quart of water. Stand over a slow fire and simmer very gently till the peas are soft. Rub through a sieve, season with salt and peppe and a very little kitchen bouquet and return to the fire. If the soup has simmered slowly, no thickening will be required. If you are obliged to hurry the process, you may have -to use a little flour, allowing one teaspoon each of flour and butter rubbed smooth to each quart of soup. Serve with croutons or slices of hard boiled eggs. Muffed Green Peppers: A tasty "green" entree. Allow one large, firm green pepper for each guest. Cut a slice from the stem end, remove the seeds carefully, parboil 1 5 minutes and drain. WTiile these cool, prepare the following mixture: To every six pep pers allow one sweetbread. Parboil and chiil the sweetbread and cut up with a silver knife. Melt two tablespoons of butter and rub into it smootlny two tablespoons of flour. Add grad ually half a cup of white stock (chick en preferred), and when creamy add one-third of a cup of minced mush rooms (canned will do) and two table spoons of sweet cream. Season with pepper, salt and Worcestershire sauce. Fill the pepper shells with this mix ture, cover with buttered bread crumbs and 'bake until the crumbs are brown. While they are baking, prepare the following sauce: Break the stems of the mushrooms, cover with cold w"ter and cook for 20 minutes. In another St Patrick's Day saucepan melt two tablespoons of but ter. rub into this two tablespoons "of nour and add a few drops of onion juice. Stir this mixture and nour over it gradually the water from the mush room stems, with enough chicken stock to make one cupful in all. Add two tablespoons of cream, salt and sea son with salt and paprika. Arrange the peppers on platter and pour the sauce around them. Mixed Green Snlad: Make a bed of crisp light green lettuce leaves. In a sep arate bowl mix onions sliced very thin, cucumber, canned string beans and peas, and some green asparagus tips, using a French dressing, plentifully seasoned with salt and pepper, as all these vegetables need high seasoning. When you have mixed the salad thoroughly, arrange it In a mound on the lettuce leaves. Irlnh Bisque: Bring one quart of new milk to a boii. dissolving it in one pint of granulated sugar. When this mixture is cool, add a quart of whipped cream, a tea spoonful of vanilla and freeze until it is the consistency of mush. Remove the dasher, add wine glass of sherry, and a coffee cup full of macaroons ground very fine. Color to the right shade of green with vegetable coloring matter, pack and set away to harden. fThis is an excellent substitute for pistachio, the green ice cream offered by caterers. The Wedding Veil. A new method of arranging the wed ding veil, particularly on the little bride who needs her height added to, is the coronet fashion. Tulle, which Is softer than lace, is used, and so puffed up on top of the head that several inches are added to the wearer's dig nity. The veil is. first put over the head in the usual way, then the front ends are caught in a series of upstand ing puffs that encircle the front of the head. These are confined to the hair by a small wreath of orange blossoms worn like a coronet. The traditional flowers do not dominate the headdress, but form a delicate finish as, they lie half-strouded in puffs of tulle. This arrangement, which has the ef fect of a high puffed cap in front, is becoming from every point of view and is becoming so popular that brides, little and big, are adopting it. In the selection of the neck scarf there is wide variety. There is the crepe de chine scarf, with its misty rose-hued border. There Is the scarf of chiffon taffeta, with its embroidered edge, and there are the veilings, which are ut up into scarf lengths and trimmed -with fringe. Any and all of these make becoming throw "shawls for the neck. MORMXG COSTtME Etiquette of Subscription Dance WILL you please settle a 'question of etiquette for me? There is a very nice dancing teacher in our neigh borhood, and once a week he gives a public dance, where any one may go for 30 cents. I love to dance, but I cannot afford to join his regular class. I can pay 50 cents once a week, or there are plenty of boys who will pay 50 cents for me, but my mother is so opposed to my going. I think she is old-fashioned and fussy, and she thinks I am bold and for ward. Please decide for me." This is not a question of etiquette, but of n orals. Tt Is so common a problem with girls who write to me that it is worth a whole article to itself. Both the mother and the girl are in the wrong. What they need is a com promise. I do not believe in the pro miscuous public dance for any girl un attended by her mother, and this means both the girl who works for her living and the girl who is comfortably supported by her parents. But I do believe in dancing under the proper chaperonage. and in the proper environment. It is a very healthful, invigorating, joy-giving exercise, and every mother ought to en courage her daughter in dancing, even if mother has to make self-sacrifice to see that the girl has the. right sort of part ners in the right sort of dance room. The trouble with the mother is that she says "You must not do this," and she does not add But you may do that. She says "You must not go to the public dance hall," and she does not add "But we will get up a dancing club.' How often have you girls who just love to dance, but who have no big parlors and willing parents to give you this pleasure, read of . "subscription dances" given by wealthy society people? It never occurred to you, did it, that these subscription dances were your public dances in modified form? Just as you pay 50 cents to attend a public dance in a public hall, so the heiress of thou sands buys a ticket for the subscription dance in her set. Her ticket is her own, paid for by her parents. The man who dances with her pays for his own ticket. The difference is that the list of persons who may buy tickets is carefully scanned by the organizers of the club and its pa tronesses. The latter are married women who know who's who in society. The money paid for these tickets 1s used to defray all expenses, music, hall, refreshments, favors, etc. You know ten girls, and every one of the ten girls knows a nice young man. Sometimes you go to the same public dances and sometimes you do not. But in a way you all know each other. Very well. Decide to start a dancing club, that shall meet once a week or once In two weeks. Perhaps the' "nice dancing teacher" around the corner will help you out. He may have one even ing a week when his hall is hot engaged. Tell him your plan and ask how many people at 50 cents a head you will need to pay for the hall, the music, and per haps lemonade and cake or coffee. He may know eome nice girls and boys who would join the club. Then you want a few married couples to help out. Perhaps some of the young married people who. work In the same store or office or factory with you will be ready for just this pleasure. That will give your club dignity and keep away very undesirable young men who believe not in pleasure and fun, but in license. Appoint the married women, at least six of them, patronesses. Each patron ess is supposed to take five tickets to sell to agreeable" and desirable young men. This saves the girls a lot of em barrasment. Next form your business committee. This may be made up of boys and girls whose duty It Is to get the most for your money, to close the bargain for the hall, music, etc. Of course the larger your number, the less it costs per capita. If your hall, music and refreshments to gether cost $25 (and in smaller cities you can make such a bargain), and you have 50 persons in the club, it will cost you 50 cents each. You must not admit any members- to the club without consulting your patron esses or chaperones. On the night of the dances the patronesses stand near the door to receive arriving guests, and also OF ROLGH SII.lv. to say good-night after the dance is over. Between these hours they dance like other members of the club, if still young enough to enjoy a two-step or waltz. This may sound a trifle stiff and for mal to the girl who has dropped into promiscuous dances and who has danced with men without the formality of an in troduction, but it is the, one safe method for the girl in a big city, particularly If no relatives are near to guard her. And I do not believe that any bright, up-to-date set of girls will fail to make these simple subscription dances a success, or to convert young men into believing jn them. And if a young man prefers the public to the subscription dance, then you don't want to know him. Suggest this plan to mother, and if she Is the sort of mother 1 think she is she will not only say "yes." but will help out a little financially to put the club on its feet. It is a small price to pay for her daughter's safety. Next week we will take up the etiquette of the dance, the obligations. of partners, escorts, etc. KATHERING MORTON. Meals and Morals. San Antonio Ex ares.'. That the way to a man's heart lies through his stomach has long been an accepted truism. The relation between a man's provender and his morals, how ever, is a matter of more recent discus sion. Addressing a technical school for girls in New York, a Justice of th Su preme Court declared that most women cook so badly that they drive their hus bands to drink. . "I have no doubt," he said "that many! men go to saloons at night just because they are improperly nourished at home." Perhaps it might have been added that the way in which eome married men lin ?or around the saloon lunch counters dur ing the day is another substantial evi dence of the unsatisfactory provision made for the gratification of their appe tites at home. But this Is not a fair test. Men sometimes get hungry between meals, even when their home table af fords the best that the skillful cuisinw could provid It Is a. factiiowever, not to be denied, that comparatively few housewives really; know how to eook. Most of them are ca pable of providing a meal out of such! materials as may be at hand. Perhaps any of them could boil water or fry eggs or serve prepared breakfast foods. Some of them do very well, some do better and some do worse. Cooking is an art which' some can learn, and which seems to coma naturally to some others. -It is sometimes an acquired and sometimes an inherited) talent which has been improved. It Is at ways an art and for the n on -profess! on ai it is a most desirable accomplishment. Making Lamp Shades. In making candle shades, lamp shades and hats at home the first work to be done is to wrap the whole frame with one-inch bias bands of silk or cotton. This keeps the wire from showing through In such ugly lines, and It forms a foundation to which the outer covering may be sewn. To this rule there is one exception when the covering is to be panels of denim or cretonne faced all round with braid. Then the material may be brought around the frame. leaving the raw edge on the right side, and after the cover is sewn tight into place the edires may be trimmed close and the braid sewn on. In choosing a cretonne for a lamp shade those with a design including a basket of flowers are very satisfactory, for each one may be used for a panel of the shade. Bouquets of flowers, too, are most suitable for the purpose, but a cretonne with' a small design does not look so well. Lace Collars. The 'handsomest and most expensive of the stiff collars have Irish lace insertion used in a sort of conventional design While these collars may be very beau tlful, they are less satisfactory than ar the hand-embroidered collars, for the lacrt will not hold the starch and constant heavy washing soon tears the fragile ma teriai . -
