THE SUXDAY OKEGOMAX, PORTLAND, 3IAKCII 13,
1908. ' . r
Bill KKEgypEwc fXcc r- f. Amms & Peaoty i'
Sounding the Note of Fashion
AS XEW goods pour In upon the
-shop counters, tiic woman of lim
ited means becomes bewildered
and wonders how to purchase intelligent
ly. Htb she sees plaids, there checks,
land at another point stripes. What shall
sh! choose?
And again I say to the woman of mod
erate means, "Avoid extremes."
Truth to tell, plain goods, plaids,
che ks and stripes, all will be worn, and
tin- point is to choose that fabric which
will best suit the figure. The nep plaids
aro not the Scotch tartans or close imi
tations thereof, but startling creations in
black, white and gray, with borders.
They arc so extreme that no woman who
must content herself with two street
suits, one for every day and one for
very best, can afford to consider these
daring novelties for one instant. The
very stout woman should stick to stripes
and make sure that they are made up
on correct, straight lines. Only the
lender, chic girl can dip into checks of
any sise. Kor Spring wear the smartest
plain fabric is the new surall serge,
which has a very soft, silky finish, and
Is most pliable. It looks best when se
verely tailored, with touches or braid
ing and buttons for the sole trimming.
Kor dressy house wear, reception toil
ets anil dinner frocks, the new voiles by
a, d zen names are moat ' useful. They ,
Bre flown in the most exquisite color-'-ngR.
alf a dozen blues, burnt rose,
smoke "olor. brownish and grayish
greens, at, an indescribable grav which
harmonizes wi,h' yellow. Sometimes
tnese voiles arf, plain, sometimes they
show a tine strine or shadowy check,
and again the- are stamped with tinv
dames. Chiffo, panamas and wool
batistes with a ,ik taffeta finish ara
among the house o-P5a novelties. Print
er! mousscJines are -harming for dinner
and evening gowns, ,,nd everything is
bordered. But the w.man of moderate
purse must he careful (n choosing bor
dered materials. She wi. be much wiser
to choose a border that self-toned or
inconspicuous in Its coloring, rather than
forming a striking i-mitroiit, as the lat
ter marks her as the womm of few
flocks, while the iiiconsplcuois border
attracts no attention, invites o com
ment. Kor instance, on one counter the other
lay were shown two holts of goods which
illustrate this idea. Both were ponree
silk with a border design, the conspicots
fabric was or natural toned pongee with
a border 13 inches wide, alternating wide
iuhI narrow stripes of brown in three
shades. The less conspicuous piece was
In gray blue, with a border in gray blue
ot ihne shades, alternating in wide and
narrow stripes. Not all borders are
sniped. Some show polka dots In vary
ing sizes, some show Vandyke points up
turned, or flowers stamped in garlands
or even lattice designs.
Two of the illustrations today show
excellent border designs. Figure A is
a house gown or sage green voile,
trimmed with bands of messaline. This
i.s most inexpensive mode of simulating
a border. The plain voile with silkv
linish without a border costs $l.o a yard.
,Vllh a stamped border it would cost
twice as much. On the other hand, mes
caline can .be bought at sales In a good
omility for 60 cents a yard, and four yards
would be sufficient for folds and girdle.
The skirt model, cither for Empire waist
line or straight round waist line, requires
six yards of double-width voile, while the
waist will take fully two yards more.
The messaline fols are cut on the bias
and the wide and narrow folds at the
bottom of the skirt are separate! by
Simple Aids for
TUB girl wlio has read just enough
novels to believe firmly in the po
lenry of mysterious violet, melting
browti or glowing black eyes, is firmly
convinced that her own placid gray, or
pfllp bluo eyes, or small hazel orbs doom
her to perpetual homeliness.
"You cannot change the color of your
eyes." she wails. And In a wayt she is
right. The shape, the srze and the color
of the eye ttsr!f cannot be altered, but
the setting or frame can be wonderfully
Improved, changing the entire aspect and
cxprension of the faro.
If you feel dissatisfied with your eyes,
study first their actual physical condition
and then their frame, which consists of
the lids, the lashes and the brows.
The appearance of the eye will be ma
terially Injured if you are abusing or
Ktruiuing it. In the effort to see, you
"squint," or draw the two lids together
until the eye becomes a mere slit. This
habit wf "squintina;" does not help your
vision at all. AH oculists will tell you
that you secure a better view with the
eyes wide open, but If your vision is fail
ing for the sake of your nerves, your
brain and your personal appearance, have
your eyes properly fitted with glasses.
This will not only cure you of the habit
of "siiuinlinj;." but it will stop the prog
ress of crows feet and lines around your
eyes.
You cannot change the coloring or size
of the iris, but you can change and im
prove the white portion of the eye. If
this lias an ugly yellow look instead of a
clear, pearly, or bluish white, nine eases
out of ten vim are bilious, and as soon as
you clear out your system thoroughly,
the heavy look will be reduced and your
eyes will be better.
, If the white portion of the eye is blood
shot, and the tiny little veins are red and
inflamed, this is practically a feverish
condition, which you can reduce by both
internal and external treatment. Inter
nally the blood may need thinning. You
may be eating too rich food and not tak
itiff sufficient exercise. To treat it exter
nally, twice a day go Into a darkened ;
rom and lay cloths dipped Into very hot i
Some Substitutes for
f ' 1 IS is tri,ks' weather for the
1 throat, and the K1rl who lays aside
- her fur neck-piece at the first sug
SeMion of Spring is apt to pay the price
in olds.
If you feel that the fur piece is now
to.t hHy, and that by over heating the
throat you invite bronchitis, tonsilitfs
and similar afflictions, then substi
tute for the fur a practical but lighter
protection. b
ne of the safest substitutes for fur
is a scarf. long, narrow and graceful.
These eotue in hoe, silk, wool and creie
de chine. Quite stylish now is the oid
l.ish!otied broche or cashmere neck scarf
f.om eiht to twelve Inches wide and not
less than a yard and a half long. The
center of the strip Is generally a plain
color, white, black, or even oft gray,
hut the hunter and ends show complicated
conventional patterns in oriental color
ings. This scarf is wound t Abe round
thu nevk and then thrown over the
Flirt rt IVtth I. ace Insets.
bars of soutache bra it! in a slightlv deen
d shade of green. The square bolero Is
trimmed with bias folds and ball trim
ming, with a guimpe and narrow cuffs
of imitation Irish lace.
Only the very slender woman can use
the bolero effect in the back and the
stout woman should substitute a plain or
finely tucked back without the bolero.
Figure B displays the possibilities' of
met net over silk. This evening pown
can be made by any deft-fingered girl
who has patience to inset the lace me
dallions. Filet net can be bought in
wide or narrow mesh and lace for inset
ting should be in a close pattern of all
over lace. The figures are then cut out
and appliqued upon the net in graduated
sizes, the large figures at the bottom, the
small ones higher up and if a girl can
embroider ever so little, she can work
little tenurils of silk above the lace bor
der. The same robe bought ready-made
would cost three or four times the price
of the filet net and the lace for inserting.
The brctelles are inset with lace to match
the border, the skirt fitted over the hips
m tine hand-run tucks and the sleeves
for evening wear are mere puffs. One
oC the important points in making up
filM net is the fact that there miAit be
worn beneath it first a silk slip and
then -over the silk a veiling of thinner
material. Chiffon .or monsseline de sole
is much used, but it is very perishable.
so a point de'esprit can be substituted.
A very good combination would be
white silk slip, covered with soft point
u esprit in blue, and then ecru nef. The
bluo should not be the staring china blue
nur forget-me-not tint, but a Urlicate pas
tel shade. Then the girdle and velvet
nooons at neck and sleeve may be of tho
blue of the same shade. Another treat
ment or met net is darning it with che
nine, a typical hiet pattern.
iusure L. shows -a stunning morning
costume of rough silk with vest and cuffs
or neavy lace. These rough silks are im
mensely popular this season and to com
plete a smart three-piece suit, make a hip
icngin jacket ot the same silk heavHy
braided. The guimpe and matching
sleeves are unquestionably strong fea
tures of late Spring and early Summer
ratment. MARY DEAN.
Attractive Eyes
water across your closed eyes. Bathe the
eyes once a day with salt water, made
with distilled water and" common table
salt thoroughly dissolved, or you can use
a boric acid wash. Mix ten grains of
Doric acid with an ounce of distilled
water. The best way to drop this into the
eye, or to bathe the eyeball, is to use the
eye cup, a tiny glass receptacle with
curved edges that fit right around the
eyeball. It can be purchased at any drug
store for a few cents. Fill the cup almost
iuu with the soothing lotion and hold
down the head so that the eye fits right
into the cup. Now slowly fling back your
head, holding the cup in position so that
it is inverted and the eyeball Is literally
bathed and cleansed.
If the lower lid is baggy or puffed, one
or two difficulties exist either you have
some latent kidney trouble manifested in
this condition, or the eyelid is inflamed.
To ascertain whether this inflammation
exists, stand before your mirror and gen
tly turn lower lid over so that you can
see the lower lining. If this is scarlet, or
Inflamed, or covered with tiny little gran
ules, then you may be sure that you are
suffering from Inflammation strong
enough to cause a swelling. If there is
no sign of Inflammation, then the case is
one for your physician to investigate.
Should it prove to be a symptom of kid
ney trouble, while your physician treats
you internally, the baggy or flabby flesh
under the eye can be gently massaged.
If it is a case of inflammation, a very
simple remedy is this: Mix ten grains
of borax with an ounce of camphor water,
understand. . this is camphor water, and
not spirits of camphor. Bathe the in
flamed eyes with this and use hot water
compresses. When the Inflammation has
existed for some months and becomes al
most chronic, you will need a slightly
stronger lotion. 1 will be glad to send the
formula for this to any chronic sufferer
from inflamed eyelids, but generally the
lotion given above is sufficient.
Next week we will discuss the eyebrows
and lashes, their care and color, but be
fore you give thought to this new prob
lem I beg of you to look to the health
of the eye itself, as suggested In this ar
ticle. No unhealthy eye can be beautiful.
X
PRUDKNt'B STAXDISH.
the Fur Neckpieces
shoulder, or permitted to hang one end
longer than the other in front.
Next in popularity Is the heavy silk
isearf. in size about the same as th
broche or cashmere scarf, preferably in
Spanish lace of heavy net with a gulm
pure or thread lace border.
The crepe d chine scarfs this season
are simly fascinating. They show plain
centers with oriental forders. or the en
tire scarf may be in oriental coloring.
This, too, is wrapped twice around the
throat.
Spring Neckpieces.
Very smart this Spring are the Ro
man scarfs of very soft silk ribbon in
Roman stripes. These have black,
white, dark blue and brown for pre
dominating shades, with more brilliant
hue In the stripes. The thin girl
twists this scarf twi'-e around her
throat and finishes it with a broad bow
SAUK 6REEX
in front. The stout girl must let the
ends hang Ion?.
The tailor-made grlrl is afraid of a
scarf of any sort. She prefers a
square or three-cornered piece of silk
or crepe de chine, which she fits firmly
around her linen collar and fastens in
the front with a stickpin, tucklns the
ends smoothly under her coat. The
tailored Birl avoids all "ends" of any
sort, even scarf-ends. She can pick up
stunning squares of silk, plain, striped
or ngrured, in Persian designs and rem
nants of crepe de chine, but whatever
she or the fluffy girl selects for Spring
neck protection must be kept Immacu
lately clean. Crepe de chine washes.
cashmere, broche and silver can be
cleaned with naphtha, but lace scarfs
should be sent to a professional
cleanser.
Delectable Sinking Room.
Philadelphia Bulletin.
A Persian diplomat, seated on the white
beach at Ormond. fanned his moist brow
with a Panama.
'The February sun is hot." he said. "Tt
recalls faintly to me the heat of Persia.
But you have no need of sinkine rooms
here."
"Sinking rooms?" said the girl in white.
"I've heard of sinking funds, but "
"You use them In Persia if you" re rich
enough in the great heats,' he inter
posed. "They're rooms of glass that sink
down into the vitreous blue denths of
I.ake Niris. Niris, the most beautiful of
Persian lakes, is almost crowded with
sinking rooms during the hot weather.
'They re very pleasant. You furnish
them sumptuously rugs and. pale silk
hangings. Ivory carvings and mother-o'-pearl
and you take down with you sing
ing girls and dancing girls, and girls to
serve the sherbet and to fill the hookahs."
He sighed.
All this, he said, is very pleasant.
but 1 would gladly exchange the glare of
this hot sun, the smell and dust and roar
of these high-powered motor cars, for
Iake Niris cool depths, the. vitreous blue
light, and the clear laughter of the Cir
cassian serving girls."
What I lost your fmprr. did you say T
Well. dear. I wouldn't mind It.
It isn't fuch a dreadful loss
Pray do not try to find it.
'Twm not the gentlest, gweetest one.
As all can well remember.
Who have endured its every whim
From New Year's till December.
It drove the dinrples all away.
And wrinkled up your forehead.
And changed a pretty, smiling face
To one well, simpiy noma.
It put to flight the cheery words.
The laughter and the singing-
And clouds upon a shining sky
It would persist in bringing.
And it is gone! Then do. my dear.
Make it your best endeavor
To quickly find a better one.
And lose it never, never i
VOILE WITH MESSA IS AD SOUTACHE BRAID.
Suggestions for
The St. Patrick's day dinner Is by no
means limited to families who can
trace their history back to the Kmer
aUl Isle. It holds such pleasant pros
pects for decorations and color schemes
that hostesses of all nationalities have
begun to feature St. Patrick's day.
For a centerpiece, white flowers,
particularly tulips, narcissus and hya
cinths, may be used with quantities of
feathery ferns. All candy and station,
ery stores carry Irish souvenirs, such
as candy boxes in th Fhape of sham
rock leaves, small pipes tied with
green ribbons, small pasteboard harps
in gilt and "Patty" hats and shillalahs.
Entrees and lees may be served in
paper cases, covered with green crepe
paper. All meat and vegetable dishes
map be thickly garnished with parsley
or cress, and the green tint can be
carried into many dishes.
Puree ot Split Peua: An excellent
"green" -soup. Soak a cup of green
split peas over night. In the morning
pour off any water that has not been
absorbed and add to the peas four times
their quantity In cold water. That is,
if the soaked peas measure two cups,
then you must add eight cups of, water.
Add also half an onion, sliced, to each
quart of water. Stand over a slow fire
and simmer very gently till the peas
are soft. Rub through a sieve, season
with salt and peppe and a very little
kitchen bouquet and return to the fire.
If the soup has simmered slowly, no
thickening will be required. If you are
obliged to hurry the process, you may
have -to use a little flour, allowing
one teaspoon each of flour and butter
rubbed smooth to each quart of soup.
Serve with croutons or slices of hard
boiled eggs.
Muffed Green Peppers: A tasty
"green" entree. Allow one large, firm
green pepper for each guest. Cut a
slice from the stem end, remove the
seeds carefully, parboil 1 5 minutes and
drain. WTiile these cool, prepare the
following mixture: To every six pep
pers allow one sweetbread. Parboil and
chiil the sweetbread and cut up with
a silver knife. Melt two tablespoons
of butter and rub into it smootlny
two tablespoons of flour. Add grad
ually half a cup of white stock (chick
en preferred), and when creamy add
one-third of a cup of minced mush
rooms (canned will do) and two table
spoons of sweet cream. Season with
pepper, salt and Worcestershire sauce.
Fill the pepper shells with this mix
ture, cover with buttered bread crumbs
and 'bake until the crumbs are brown.
While they are baking, prepare the
following sauce: Break the stems of
the mushrooms, cover with cold w"ter
and cook for 20 minutes. In another
St Patrick's Day
saucepan melt two tablespoons of but
ter. rub into this two tablespoons "of
nour and add a few drops of onion
juice. Stir this mixture and nour over
it gradually the water from the mush
room stems, with enough chicken
stock to make one cupful in all. Add
two tablespoons of cream, salt and sea
son with salt and paprika. Arrange
the peppers on platter and pour the
sauce around them.
Mixed Green Snlad: Make a bed of
crisp light green lettuce leaves. In a sep
arate bowl mix onions sliced very thin,
cucumber, canned string beans and peas,
and some green asparagus tips, using a
French dressing, plentifully seasoned with
salt and pepper, as all these vegetables
need high seasoning. When you have
mixed the salad thoroughly, arrange it In
a mound on the lettuce leaves.
Irlnh Bisque: Bring one quart of new
milk to a boii. dissolving it in one pint of
granulated sugar. When this mixture is
cool, add a quart of whipped cream, a tea
spoonful of vanilla and freeze until it is
the consistency of mush. Remove the
dasher, add wine glass of sherry, and a
coffee cup full of macaroons ground very
fine. Color to the right shade of green
with vegetable coloring matter, pack and
set away to harden. fThis is an excellent
substitute for pistachio, the green ice
cream offered by caterers.
The Wedding Veil.
A new method of arranging the wed
ding veil, particularly on the little
bride who needs her height added to,
is the coronet fashion. Tulle, which Is
softer than lace, is used, and so puffed
up on top of the head that several
inches are added to the wearer's dig
nity. The veil is. first put over the
head in the usual way, then the front
ends are caught in a series of upstand
ing puffs that encircle the front of the
head. These are confined to the hair
by a small wreath of orange blossoms
worn like a coronet. The traditional
flowers do not dominate the headdress,
but form a delicate finish as, they lie
half-strouded in puffs of tulle.
This arrangement, which has the ef
fect of a high puffed cap in front, is
becoming from every point of view
and is becoming so popular that brides,
little and big, are adopting it.
In the selection of the neck scarf
there is wide variety. There is the
crepe de chine scarf, with its misty
rose-hued border. There Is the scarf
of chiffon taffeta, with its embroidered
edge, and there are the veilings, which
are ut up into scarf lengths and
trimmed -with fringe. Any and all of
these make becoming throw "shawls
for the neck.
MORMXG COSTtME
Etiquette of Subscription Dance
WILL you please settle a 'question of
etiquette for me? There is a very
nice dancing teacher in our neigh
borhood, and once a week he gives a
public dance, where any one may go for
30 cents. I love to dance, but I cannot
afford to join his regular class. I can
pay 50 cents once a week, or there are
plenty of boys who will pay 50 cents for
me, but my mother is so opposed to my
going. I think she is old-fashioned and
fussy, and she thinks I am bold and for
ward. Please decide for me."
This is not a question of etiquette, but
of n orals. Tt Is so common a problem
with girls who write to me that it is
worth a whole article to itself.
Both the mother and the girl are in
the wrong. What they need is a com
promise. I do not believe in the pro
miscuous public dance for any girl un
attended by her mother, and this means
both the girl who works for her living
and the girl who is comfortably supported
by her parents. But I do believe in
dancing under the proper chaperonage.
and in the proper environment. It is a
very healthful, invigorating, joy-giving
exercise, and every mother ought to en
courage her daughter in dancing, even if
mother has to make self-sacrifice to see
that the girl has the. right sort of part
ners in the right sort of dance room.
The trouble with the mother is that she
says "You must not do this," and she
does not add But you may do that.
She says "You must not go to the
public dance hall," and she does not
add "But we will get up a dancing club.'
How often have you girls who just love
to dance, but who have no big parlors
and willing parents to give you this
pleasure, read of . "subscription dances"
given by wealthy society people? It
never occurred to you, did it, that these
subscription dances were your public
dances in modified form? Just as you
pay 50 cents to attend a public dance in
a public hall, so the heiress of thou
sands buys a ticket for the subscription
dance in her set. Her ticket is her own,
paid for by her parents. The man who
dances with her pays for his own ticket.
The difference is that the list of persons
who may buy tickets is carefully scanned
by the organizers of the club and its pa
tronesses. The latter are married women
who know who's who in society.
The money paid for these tickets 1s
used to defray all expenses, music, hall,
refreshments, favors, etc.
You know ten girls, and every one of
the ten girls knows a nice young man.
Sometimes you go to the same public
dances and sometimes you do not. But
in a way you all know each other.
Very well. Decide to start a dancing
club, that shall meet once a week or
once In two weeks. Perhaps the' "nice
dancing teacher" around the corner will
help you out. He may have one even
ing a week when his hall is hot engaged.
Tell him your plan and ask how many
people at 50 cents a head you will need
to pay for the hall, the music, and per
haps lemonade and cake or coffee. He
may know eome nice girls and boys who
would join the club.
Then you want a few married couples
to help out. Perhaps some of the young
married people who. work In the same
store or office or factory with you will
be ready for just this pleasure. That
will give your club dignity and keep away
very undesirable young men who believe
not in pleasure and fun, but in license.
Appoint the married women, at least
six of them, patronesses. Each patron
ess is supposed to take five tickets to
sell to agreeable" and desirable young
men. This saves the girls a lot of em
barrasment. Next form your business committee.
This may be made up of boys and girls
whose duty It Is to get the most for your
money, to close the bargain for the hall,
music, etc. Of course the larger your
number, the less it costs per capita. If
your hall, music and refreshments to
gether cost $25 (and in smaller cities you
can make such a bargain), and you have
50 persons in the club, it will cost you 50
cents each.
You must not admit any members- to
the club without consulting your patron
esses or chaperones. On the night of the
dances the patronesses stand near the
door to receive arriving guests, and also
OF ROLGH SII.lv.
to say good-night after the dance is over.
Between these hours they dance like
other members of the club, if still young
enough to enjoy a two-step or waltz.
This may sound a trifle stiff and for
mal to the girl who has dropped into
promiscuous dances and who has danced
with men without the formality of an in
troduction, but it is the, one safe method
for the girl in a big city, particularly If
no relatives are near to guard her. And
I do not believe that any bright, up-to-date
set of girls will fail to make these
simple subscription dances a success, or
to convert young men into believing jn
them. And if a young man prefers the
public to the subscription dance, then you
don't want to know him.
Suggest this plan to mother, and if she
Is the sort of mother 1 think she is she
will not only say "yes." but will help
out a little financially to put the club
on its feet. It is a small price to pay for
her daughter's safety.
Next week we will take up the etiquette
of the dance, the obligations. of partners,
escorts, etc. KATHERING MORTON.
Meals and Morals.
San Antonio Ex ares.'.
That the way to a man's heart lies
through his stomach has long been an
accepted truism. The relation between a
man's provender and his morals, how
ever, is a matter of more recent discus
sion. Addressing a technical school for
girls in New York, a Justice of th Su
preme Court declared that most women
cook so badly that they drive their hus
bands to drink. .
"I have no doubt," he said "that many!
men go to saloons at night just because
they are improperly nourished at home."
Perhaps it might have been added that
the way in which eome married men lin
?or around the saloon lunch counters dur
ing the day is another substantial evi
dence of the unsatisfactory provision
made for the gratification of their appe
tites at home. But this Is not a fair test.
Men sometimes get hungry between
meals, even when their home table af
fords the best that the skillful cuisinw
could provid
It Is a. factiiowever, not to be denied,
that comparatively few housewives really;
know how to eook. Most of them are ca
pable of providing a meal out of such!
materials as may be at hand. Perhaps
any of them could boil water or fry eggs
or serve prepared breakfast foods. Some
of them do very well, some do better and
some do worse. Cooking is an art which'
some can learn, and which seems to coma
naturally to some others. -It is sometimes
an acquired and sometimes an inherited)
talent which has been improved. It Is at
ways an art and for the n on -profess! on ai
it is a most desirable accomplishment.
Making Lamp Shades.
In making candle shades, lamp
shades and hats at home the first work
to be done is to wrap the whole frame
with one-inch bias bands of silk or
cotton. This keeps the wire from
showing through In such ugly lines,
and It forms a foundation to which
the outer covering may be sewn.
To this rule there is one exception
when the covering is to be panels of
denim or cretonne faced all round with
braid. Then the material may be
brought around the frame. leaving the
raw edge on the right side, and after
the cover is sewn tight into place the
edires may be trimmed close and the
braid sewn on.
In choosing a cretonne for a lamp
shade those with a design including a
basket of flowers are very satisfactory,
for each one may be used for a panel of
the shade. Bouquets of flowers, too,
are most suitable for the purpose, but a
cretonne with' a small design does not
look so well.
Lace Collars.
The 'handsomest and most expensive of
the stiff collars have Irish lace insertion
used in a sort of conventional design
While these collars may be very beau
tlful, they are less satisfactory than ar
the hand-embroidered collars, for the lacrt
will not hold the starch and constant
heavy washing soon tears the fragile ma
teriai . -