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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 8, 1908)
7 SPRING STYLES IN TWO-PIECE -j & . SUITS '& THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH 8, 1908. i 1 1 I 1 THK MV THREE Treatment for 4 SPR W mo PRING fever days are at hand. fe all know hat It means when mother's feet lag and she reads the patent medicine testimonials, and Sis ter Beth stays homo from school one or two afternoons each week. "Spring fever." The tonics may stimulate" and the af ternoon in a darkened room may relieve the headache, but the llred feeling some how hangs on until hot weather, by which tme the sufferers announce tnat they are getting used to the change from cold to heat. Nonsense! The change in weather has nothing to do with so-called "Spring fever." The tired woman who demands a tonic 'and the exhausted schoolgirl who is never free from headache are suffering from a ' common ailment, blood-poison. This is not the form of blood-poisoning i which breaks out in ugly sores. It is 1 represented by lassitude, languor, head Ache, sleeplessness, general debility, loss of appetite and wrinkles. Hut that is quite enough. It is caused by foul air, air beathed I and re-breathed and then exhaled until the ll!y-ventilated living-room or kitchen, ; or the stuffy schoolroom, Is afloat with I death-dealing germs. Tor that tired feeling try. first, pure air. Of course you are tired, and you think you cannot walk. Well, then drag your way around the block the first day, and fling open your window the first night, if you have to pile on i comforts to do this. Drive the impuri ties out of your blood and your lungs. f If you fail to do so, look out for typhoid, pneumonia and other real ailments. IV not fret at the tired schoolgirl be cause examinations are at hand and she does not seem equal to the task. Kn courago her to have fun out doors. Say "do" instead of "don't." I'rgo her to organize a walking dun. Send her on pleasant errands. Induce her to play not, or tennis, or to ride a wheel and to row as soon as the weather permits. Never mind the embroidered blouse she whs to finish for commencement week. 1 f you do not let her till her poisoned lungs with that glorious antidote, pure air, she will not be tit to wear any blouse, embroidered or otherwise. If you are the tired mother, let some of the housework go and try the fresh air cure yourself. And do not wait for houscclcaning days to ventilate your house, which has been closed all Winter long. Ventilate, and do it now) The anaemic girl or woman should have her apMtlte whetted with fruit and freih vegetables. Serve tart fruit in stead of hot cakes for breakfast, ooeoa Instead of tea for lunch, and a fresh silnd with olive oil in the dressing with every dinner. Banish pork from the table entirely at this season of the year, and .substitute for hot breads wafer-like slices of brown toast. If a laxative is required, and gener ally the exhausted houseworkor or school girl finds her entire ailimentary canal poisoned by foul air. try this tig-paste: llnlf a ftouud of dried tigs, half a pound of good raisins, one ounce of sen na leaves; chop these together and mix in a porcelain stew pan with one cup of (Uigur and one of boiling water. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then pour into a hakinj; pan lined with oiled paper. When cool, cut into inch squares and eat one at bedtime. Reduce the dose at the di gestive conditions improve. Now. if ever the year round, women look sallow and faded i-l wrinkled. For that sallow look, try an orange diet, one with your breakfast and another between breakfast and lunch and a third between lunch and dinner. Alio eat pineapple, nhnnidtng the fresh fruit, chewing it t borough ly and discarding the stringy i pulp. Incidentally it is said that frctu - TONK STRIPE. Spring Fever pineapple rubbed on moth-patches will remove these disfigurements. For wrinkles, sleep in a fresh, well ventilated bedroom is a fine remedy. The young girl should need no other treat ment, if wrinkles appear around the eyes and mouth. But her mother may need a skin food or a cream that will be ab sorbed by the flabby skin and round it out. These formulas I will be glad to send to any one supplying the customary starnped and adressed envelope. They have been published in this column be fore and have given the best of satis faction to our readers. I will be glad also to send readers a formula for a harmless appetizer, especially desTTled for the anaemic, listless woman who eats little at table and Is vaguely hungry between meals. KATHER1NE MORTON. The Scourge of the Teeth. f Indies' World. The teeth decay because they are not kept clean. If perfect cleansing of the teeth can be accomplished they will last through life. In spite of the great est care the food collects between them and Us decomposition hastens decay and causes the gums to recede, then the spaces between become larger and the amount of food which lodges be tween them greater; the loosening process begins, and then follows Riggs disease, that great scourge of teeth, for which no remedy as yet has been found. Usually, in spite of the greatest care, the teeth will loosen more and more, because of the inflammation and the deposit of tartar. Too much de pendence is placed upon the toothbrush in cleansing the teeth. In the cases where the gums have receded it is im possible to cleanse the teeth thor oughly with the brush, for after brush ing the teeth if one takes a toothpick and passes it between them, it will be fbund that many small particles of food remain. The toothpick is of great value in cleansing the teeth, and the hard vrange wood is the best, for a toothpick should never be used a sec ond time. A toothpick will remove the particle of food and the soft tartar better than dental floss. After cleans ing tho teeth with the brush and what ever dentifrice is used, pass the pointed end of the toothpick between the teeth; then wind a w-Isp of cotton on the other end, dip it In the saturated solu tion of boric acid and wipe around the gums and between the teeth front and back; afterwards rinse the teeth thor oughly with the solution. Do this after each meal and the tartar will not col lect, the gums will harden and a well nigh perfect cleanliness will be ob tained. Leap Tear Delusion. Nashville American. Jf you are such a bashful bey, Yu hide away when she is near. Or tf she gives you halt a chance t'ut for tlit- timber tall In tear. If that describes you to m T, Pray, how do you. my lad. luppon The leap-year lady ever will Gel near enough, sir, to propose? She cannot stand across the street And shout It a you saunter past. Or rush madly from the house And lay, r v capt ured you at last. She cannot from an upper floor v'all to you through a megaphone Or clear across a candy store Propose to you In strident tone. Of course, If she has mind to write. The mall is there at her command. With 2 cent and an envelope She may her feelings, warm, expand, Or she could use a telephone And call to you in accents sweet. Or in response to your "Hello" Might jy, "Weil, how about It, Peter She might do these, but she will not. For If you et her to propose Tou ll have to take her by the hand And all your Inner heart disclose To lead her srntly to the point. In fact. It is a better plan And one that alwas makes a hit. To beat her to it. If you can. This promises to be a strong skirt-and-eoat season. The jumper, so popular last Summer and Fall and the shirtwaist suit, so dearly beloved of women for many seasons, have both been retired In favor of tailored skirts and matching coats for all street wear. This rule holds good whether the fabric be cloth, silk or "tub" goods. What is more, the jacket is an out and out jacket, with mannish lines, long sleeves.- tailored reveres and a vest, or a suggestion thereof. The natty little Eton with a mere apology for sleeves, the cape, the fichu these are all - very well in their place, which is not on the street. , The Eton appears as & sleeveless coatee of lace or net. or other contrasting ma terial over a house frock. The fichu may be seen on a dancing or dinner dress with surplice or Empire lines, -but do not be inveigled into buying anything eape-l'.ke for street wear. The cape fad was short lived, and wisely thus. It makes every woman look old. The second-best tailored suit, which every woman must have for shopping, marketing, walking and informal visit ing of relatives and intimates, is some thing quite apart from her calling or church suit. It is far more simple, and yet it Is apt to cost not so very much less. That is because good lines come high, and the plainer the suit, the better must be the lines. As to fabrics. Mixed weaves reign this Spring In all cloths. In colors it is wisest to choose between those without heat, such as gray, blues (of which there seem to be dozens), greens, or black and white. Mustard color has died a natural death, which is a good thing, as It was becom ing to but few persons. All browns, reds and deep purples seem to absorb and re flect heat, so avoid hem if you may have but one tailored suit this Spring. Three-tone stripes are good, but later there promises to be a reaction in favor Pleasant Pastime for Women in Perfume Industry NO LESS a person than the United States Secretary of Agriculture says officially that there is a pleasant and profitable pastime for women in the perfume industry. Here is his recipe: Many roses should be planted, -and culled . before the .-bloom has lost its sweet ness. The buds and half-open blooms are boiled In pure fat for several hours, the fat strained, new flowers added and the whole boiled again. This process is repeated four times, and the pomade Is considered saturated with the essence of roses. Spirits in the proportion of a gallon to eight pounds of the paste is added, and the result is esprit de rose. This is kept to. mix with grosser perfumes, a 9rop being sufficient to impart an - ex quisite fragrance to any compound. From attar of roses are made all the fashionable perfumes now in such gen eral use. It requires about 600 pounds of rose leaves to produce one .ounce of attar, worth about $175. Of course very little of this arrives in America in a pure state; it is too valuable not to be counterfeited and diluted. 4I would be glad," he says, "to see some of our women who are seeking profitable investments take up this work. But, as I said at the outset, I am not in a position to give facts and figures. I have had too much on hand to take the question up, but I am thoroughly con vinced that it would be an industry CI TAW A Y SlIT of infinitesimal checks and broken lines which resemble more than anything a tiny chicken's claw. Black and white pin stripes are over laid with tiny, fine bright color designs and often have matching borders, broad stripes of all black, or black and white. The woman who is limited in the num ber of her tailor-mades, however, should eschew violent color contrasts, and also borders, as they will be rather common before .the season wanes.' Crude, plain colors are not in demand. Mixed goods of any sort take precedence and the more subtle the color combina tion, the better. In silks, what has been known for years as rajah, a rough, heavy pongee, reappears this season under several new names and perhaps in a more supple quality, though it lends itself to tailoring. It is generally, self toned, but with a shadowy weave. It is particularly fetch ing in steel grays and gunmetal. This silk Is heavily braided for two-piece suits. A cloth two-piece suit and one in silk or linen should be included In the ward robe of every well-dressed woman. She should never appear on a city street with out a jacket. The smartest skirt for youthful, trim figures, whatever the age, is ankle length. The matronly figure, however, demands a skirt that escapes the ground by an inch and one-half only. Pleats hold good for Spring skirts, and the new pleated skirt is practically tin trimmed but very full. The gored skirts have a pronounced ripple or flare, and fit the figure snugly about the hips. Cut away styles remain good in jackets, and perhaps the rounded fronts take preced ence for severe tailored coats; the long, graceful points for more dressy effects-. The vest is everywhere seen, and is one of the expensive features of the Spring suit. Braided vests are the least ex pepsive, and In best taste for tailored coats. Silk, embroidered, or lace vests be long to dressier coats. v which would furnish employment for many and bring in good interest on the money invested. "The details must be gathered by study ing the systems employed in France. Italy, Germany and other countries. If our good women are in search of some thing new and profitable in the way of investment and employment, the way Is open right here. The conditions are en tirely favorable for growing all kinds of flowers and buibs, and it will doubtless prove an industry which would develop and grow with wonderful rapidity. "Whatever assistance this department can give any one who may desire to en ter the flower growing field will be will ingly and cheerfully given. We are here for the purpose of furnishing whatever information we are enabled to gather by and from our experiments and investiga tions along all lines, and It is the public's simply for the asking.' . "Our experts are in the field continually, and whatever they may learn is for the benefit of our people. That is what these men and women are paid for. "A love for flowers is always commend able, but a love for their essences their souls, so to speak is almost universal and entirely praiseworthy, and it shows civilization and refinement. "It is generally understood that we of this country are a plain, matter-of-fact people, most of us bffsied in building, growing corn and cotton, running rail roads, making money in -every way, and careless of luxuries; buj think of our noses costing us, one year with another, something like a round million for ex tracts, pomades and the like. IX GRAY. No. 1 is a study in . gray cloth with a faint suggestion of blue. The skirt is cut in 'nine gores and then kilted, with a single fold for trimming. The coat is a semifitted cutaway for wear aver starched shirtwaists. The trimming con sists of stitching and straps of soutache holding down the buttons. No. 2 shows the -three-tone stripe in fluence, ftaav, white and black French worsted with trimmings of fine bUrvk broadcloth. The 'skirt is a seven-gored ripple model, which fits spleVididly over the. hips. The cutaway is slashed on square lines and trimmed wtth bias bands of the material. No. 3 shows a most effective use of the two-tone gunmetal silk with braiding. This skirt Is box pleated, and the coat has a vest of pompadour ribbon, very heavy with shadowy flowers, showing grays, yellows and burnt rose. Vesting can be bought in patterns, but a skillful search for remnants of silk, cloth or rib bon will usually save money. , It will be noted that all the sleeves in these costumes are long. The three quarter, not elbow,, sleeve is seen with more dressy two-piece suits, but not for morning wear. The cutaway coat demands beautiful and immacuiate neckwear, fluffy bows, good collars, etc., and a hat that is chic and rather stiff, never soft and droopy. Practically no separate belts are seen this 9pring. For each suit, a belt of matching material is provided, a narrow, simply stitched belt-, for the stout, matronly figure; a corselet or higher shaped belt for the slender, long-waisted figure. . ' - For, shirtwaists, white linen, madras plain or figured,, and percales are in vogue, to wear' with these two-piece suits. Every effort is being made to force the colored shirtwaist on the market. but the woman who has few blouses will do well to stick to white, with a dash of color In the tie. . MARY DEAN. "Why. we pay out more than $300,000 annually for imports of attar of roses alone, when there is no necessity for disbursing one red cent for an article -wh ieh can be made right here. We couldn't raise tea in this country, either, the croakers said, but we are growing the finest flavored teas in the world, and their cultivation Is carrying thousands of dollars annually into the pockets of the women and children of the South. Tea cultivation is not only giving them wages, but employment that is light and pleasant. "I repeat: We can grow any and every thing in this great country of ours, and the thing to do is to get in line and get at it, thus keeping our money at home to give comforts to women and girls, . and goodness knows that- those in the rural districts have a hard enough time at best. "But, come to think of it, I supposa there are lots of overworked shopgirls who would" be far better off physically and mentally, to say nothing of the moral ffJdt?, if " they were raising tea or silk worms or cultivating flowers for the per fume. 1 1t is my understanding that for the latter work very little capital is re quired, the machinery being comparative ly simple and inexpensive. "A few dollars will start a business, and there is always & demand for every es sence or extract which can be produced. Now, as in olden times, the rose is the queen of perfumes, as it is the queen of the garden, and attar of roses is more than worth its weight in gold." NEW DENIM CURTAINS NEW denim curtains are decorated with trees and art nouveau flowers in- some contrasting color red, brown or green. Some insidious women even use a- twining vine or poinsetta design, which runs from the bottom of the curtain to within two feet of the pole. The idea Is very good, for In trimming of curtains of either denim or burlap the design may be pasted on or machine stitched around the edge. It is true that it gives a sort of outre effect to a room, "but when used in the library or "den" their appearance is not unapppopriate. Many women carry out the same idea in the table cover of tan linen with blossoms of burlap. In the latter case,- of course, the design must be stitched to the cover, for the con stant washing would certainly ruin it. A library furnished with soft cushions, table cover, curtains and portieres in green denim decorated with red poin setta in burlap or leather is most at tractive and cheerful. The idea is most appropriate for the country home or sea shore, for silk and handsome curtains are not suitable for Summer. The library In a large country house recently visited was furnished entirely in dark green denim. The curtains of the same were decorated with large brown burlap tulips, and even the mantelpiece was hung with drapery to match. The sash curtains at the window were filet net, darned with linen thread in some large conventional design; while the paper on the watl harmonized with the idea and tone of the whole.- A prettier room can hardly be imagined than was this living-room. Sometimes when the housekeeper de sires to keep the whole furnishings of the room in lighter materials, the porch fur niture can be supplied with cushions and covers of this kind, and they are so in expensive that the weather may spoil them without causing the 'thrifty house wife any particular anxiety. Getting Along With Children. Ladies' "World. Children need the "soft answer that turneth away wrath" in most cases, much more than the time-honored rod. We make due allowance for the nerves of grown-ups, but few people make sufficient allowance for the nerves of children, or indeed seem to think that they have any. When children seem ir ritable, and we can see no apparent cause, it is much better to leave them alone for a short while, not pressing any questions upon them, and above all we should not allow our own irritation to get into our tones when talking to them. I know of one little six-year-old who is all amiability and animation at school, yet when he gets home he' cannot bear to be asked many ques tions without showing extreme nerv ousness and annoyance. He has simply kept up to the demands at school and his nervous force is not equal to fur ther strain. Ilis mother has wisely found that what he needs is to play outdoors awhile, until he relaxes, and then he is amiable and sweet-tempered again. Such temperaments are hard to deal with, and require study and much patience, with little if any physical punishment. Right guidance, and hold ing the right ideal, is the only safe course. GliST-METAl. SII, Manners and the Young Man THE personable young man In the average American city has de veloped fnto a much pampered In dividual. If he dances well, makes a pleasing dinner partner and gives a lit tle attention to purple and fine linen, and sends an occasional bouquet of vio lets to -particularly favored women, he is very apt to be placed on a social pedestal which is good for neither his mentality nor his manners.- So many American men give them selves over entirely to the pursuit of wealth or fame that the young man who can gracefully keep up the social life and still score a moderate business suc cess is in a fair way to be spoiled by over-appreciative women friends. At first, warmed by glow of social success, he is extremely careful about paying his obligations. He shows his appreciation of invitations by dancing even with the . wall flowers, about whom his hostess Is worried. He makes his dinner calls "re ligiously, and is especially careful to be attentive to the out-of-town guests af such women as have made him welcome in their homes. But in time, to quote a country ex pression, "he feels his oats." He over estimates his Importance, and lta be comes careless as to social obligations. At the dance he bestows his attentions only upon the belle of the evening, or the newest girl, the out-of-town guest. If pleasing partners are not plentiful, he lounges in the smoking room when too bored to dance. He is no longer punctilious as to the hours for calling, and he is very apt to annoy the hus band of some Influential hostess by lounging in their comfortable living room at most inopportune hours, filling the air with smoke, and his host's choicest .Cloisonne bowl with ashes. " But he has become a fixture in the social world, and somehow manages to retain his foothold. And the saddest part of the situation is that young men, new to the town and Its social life, are very apt to accept him as a model of good .form, for what they are apt to call "smart manners." It is never "smart" to be rude. The young man who honestly desires to be eligible and welcome at nice homes will observe the following rules: Never remain seated so long as a woman is standing, and always rise to be Introduced to anyone, be it man or woman. Always ask permission to Introduce a man friend to a woman. You should never say "Miss Smith, I want to in troduce you to Mr. Jones." Rather say, "Miss Smith, may I introduce my friend. Mr. Jones, to you?" You present the man to the woman, not the woman to the man. Never carry your hat and overcoat into a parlor. Leave them- in the hall on the hat rack, else on a chair near the door of the paVlor. Nothing' Is so annoying as a young man who sits and twirls a cane, plays with his gloves, etc., during an evening call. Bid your hostess good night, shaking her. hand if you so desire, then go into the hall and put on your coat, hat and gloves. Never shake hands with a woman while 3Vur hand is gloved, unless meeting her on the street. In a house, remove your glove. If you have been entertained at. a din ner or musicale, you should call upon your hostess within two weeks. . For mal calls should last about half an hour, and never get so familiar that you stay until your hostess yawns and wishes you were home. In other words, "do not wear your welcome out."- Never stay later than 11 at night, and this only among Intimate friends. It your hostess seems to be enjoying your call and you are likewise entertained by her company, leave at a reasonable hour, asking permission to come soon again, but do not stay until the young lady is apt to be reprimanded by her parents. When you enter a room, seek the host ess at once. Even if you see some friends and want to talk to them, you should first greet your hostess, returning to your friends afterwards. And never make tho fatal mistake of leaving a house without bidding the hostess good-bye. Do not axue with yourself, "She is busy and K AXD BRAID. I'll just slip out." When ,she Is not busy she will miss you and recall that you left without showing this courtesy; If you are a guest at a dinner, and your partner is not congenial If .the girl you admire sits across the table, do not neglect your partner for this reason. Talk to her, no matter how stupid and unattractive she Is. . After the dinner Is over and guests are sitting in the drawing-room, you can seek Oft a more com panionable person with whom to con verse; but while you are at the table your attentions must be centered on the young woman whom your hostess as signed to your care. Do not be lax in your attentions to the mothers. Many a girl has been won by the courteous tfeatment a young man shows her parents. And many a girl has been lost because some young man thought such politeness a pure waste of time. Do something - for the old ladles once in a. while. Your reward will not be a blush and a flirtatious glance from snapping eyes, but the return will come in other and perhaps more substantial ways. . Do not plead a very common excuse, "I never have time to write notes." Wa all know that the writing of a note con sumes but a few minutes, and there is nu excuse for not writing a line now and then. Send your acceptances or regrets promptly. PRUDENCE STANDISH. The Utilizing of the Canned Supplies The housewife who, last Fall, stocked her pantry and storeroom with all sorts of canned goods, is very apt to find quite a few of them still on; hand, with fresh vegetables 'and fruits of early Spring looming up on the horizon. Stewed to matoes, canned corn warmed over in milk, canned peas heated in butter ths family are all sick of all these by now. If- canned supplies are- to be used, they must now be disguised by clever cookery. Corn Pudding Take a can of corn and put in a chopping bowl and chop tho corn very fine. Now rt ln baklrg-Cish and add to this corn one cup of rich milk; butter the size of a walnut, two tablespoons of sugar and two eggs which have been well heated. Stir all. together and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Corn Oysters The name Is taken from the shape of the corn when cooked. Take half a can of corn and chop fine, add to this the yolk of one egg, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and then add the white of the egg, which has been beaten very stiff. Drop on hot frying pan in lard, about the size of an oyster and fry brown on both sides. If you find the corn is very dry, you can add a little milk to thin the batter before frying. Pilan Half a can of tomatoes, one cup of rice, one pint of water, one cup ot diced meat, one-half tablespoon of curry, one-half teaspoon of salt, two table spoons of butter, one-half teaspoon of onion and a little pepper. Heat the to matoes and water, add onion, and as soon as it boils add. one cup of rice, meat and curry, salt and cook until the rice Is tender, which will be about 30 minutes. Add the butter when ready to serve. Serve on toast. Stuffed Peppers Parboil either red or green peppers. Cut the top ofT, leaving the stem on. however. Remove all the seeds and fill with the following recipe: Take a can of corn and chop line, add to it a tablespoon of melted butter, a table spoon of cream, two eggs, well beaten, salt and pepper to taste. Fill the peppers with this mixture, put on the cover and bake in a quick oven. Cherry Tapioca Pudding Soak one small cup of tapioca ln water over night'. In the morning add a pinch of salt to it and cook until clear; then add butter the size of an egg. one heaping cup of cherries, half a cup of sherry wine and sugar enough to suit your taste. Flavor with teaspoon of vanilla, turn into bak ing dish and bake until brown. Serve very cd with -cream. If the flavor of nutmeg is liked, grate a little on the puddiDg before putting it in the oven.
