7
SPRING STYLES IN TWO-PIECE
-j & . SUITS '&
THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH 8, 1908.
i 1 1 I 1
THK MV THREE
Treatment for
4
SPR
W
mo
PRING fever days are at hand.
fe all know hat It means when
mother's feet lag and she reads
the patent medicine testimonials, and Sis
ter Beth stays homo from school one or
two afternoons each week.
"Spring fever."
The tonics may stimulate" and the af
ternoon in a darkened room may relieve
the headache, but the llred feeling some
how hangs on until hot weather, by
which tme the sufferers announce tnat
they are getting used to the change
from cold to heat.
Nonsense!
The change in weather has nothing to
do with so-called "Spring fever." The
tired woman who demands a tonic 'and
the exhausted schoolgirl who is never
free from headache are suffering from a
' common ailment, blood-poison.
This is not the form of blood-poisoning
i which breaks out in ugly sores. It is
1 represented by lassitude, languor, head
Ache, sleeplessness, general debility, loss
of appetite and wrinkles.
Hut that is quite enough.
It is caused by foul air, air beathed
I and re-breathed and then exhaled until
the ll!y-ventilated living-room or kitchen,
; or the stuffy schoolroom, Is afloat with
I death-dealing germs.
Tor that tired feeling try. first, pure
air. Of course you are tired, and you
think you cannot walk. Well, then
drag your way around the block the
first day, and fling open your window
the first night, if you have to pile on
i comforts to do this. Drive the impuri
ties out of your blood and your lungs.
f If you fail to do so, look out for typhoid,
pneumonia and other real ailments.
IV not fret at the tired schoolgirl be
cause examinations are at hand and she
does not seem equal to the task. Kn
courago her to have fun out doors. Say
"do" instead of "don't." I'rgo her to
organize a walking dun. Send her on
pleasant errands. Induce her to play
not, or tennis, or to ride a wheel and
to row as soon as the weather permits.
Never mind the embroidered blouse she
whs to finish for commencement week.
1 f you do not let her till her poisoned
lungs with that glorious antidote, pure
air, she will not be tit to wear any
blouse, embroidered or otherwise.
If you are the tired mother, let some
of the housework go and try the fresh
air cure yourself. And do not wait for
houscclcaning days to ventilate your
house, which has been closed all Winter
long. Ventilate, and do it now)
The anaemic girl or woman should
have her apMtlte whetted with fruit and
freih vegetables. Serve tart fruit in
stead of hot cakes for breakfast, ooeoa
Instead of tea for lunch, and a fresh
silnd with olive oil in the dressing with
every dinner. Banish pork from the table
entirely at this season of the year, and
.substitute for hot breads wafer-like slices
of brown toast.
If a laxative is required, and gener
ally the exhausted houseworkor or school
girl finds her entire ailimentary canal
poisoned by foul air. try this tig-paste:
llnlf a ftouud of dried tigs, half a
pound of good raisins, one ounce of sen
na leaves; chop these together and mix
in a porcelain stew pan with one cup of
(Uigur and one of boiling water. Simmer
gently for 10 minutes, then pour into a
hakinj; pan lined with oiled paper. When
cool, cut into inch squares and eat one at
bedtime. Reduce the dose at the di
gestive conditions improve.
Now. if ever the year round, women
look sallow and faded i-l wrinkled. For
that sallow look, try an orange diet, one
with your breakfast and another between
breakfast and lunch and a third between
lunch and dinner. Alio eat pineapple,
nhnnidtng the fresh fruit, chewing it
t borough ly and discarding the stringy
i pulp. Incidentally it is said that frctu
- TONK STRIPE.
Spring Fever
pineapple rubbed on moth-patches will
remove these disfigurements.
For wrinkles, sleep in a fresh, well
ventilated bedroom is a fine remedy. The
young girl should need no other treat
ment, if wrinkles appear around the eyes
and mouth. But her mother may need a
skin food or a cream that will be ab
sorbed by the flabby skin and round it
out. These formulas I will be glad to
send to any one supplying the customary
starnped and adressed envelope. They
have been published in this column be
fore and have given the best of satis
faction to our readers. I will be glad
also to send readers a formula for a
harmless appetizer, especially desTTled
for the anaemic, listless woman who
eats little at table and Is vaguely hungry
between meals.
KATHER1NE MORTON.
The Scourge of the Teeth. f
Indies' World.
The teeth decay because they are not
kept clean. If perfect cleansing of the
teeth can be accomplished they will
last through life. In spite of the great
est care the food collects between them
and Us decomposition hastens decay
and causes the gums to recede, then
the spaces between become larger and
the amount of food which lodges be
tween them greater; the loosening
process begins, and then follows Riggs
disease, that great scourge of teeth,
for which no remedy as yet has been
found. Usually, in spite of the greatest
care, the teeth will loosen more and
more, because of the inflammation and
the deposit of tartar. Too much de
pendence is placed upon the toothbrush
in cleansing the teeth. In the cases
where the gums have receded it is im
possible to cleanse the teeth thor
oughly with the brush, for after brush
ing the teeth if one takes a toothpick
and passes it between them, it will be
fbund that many small particles of
food remain. The toothpick is of great
value in cleansing the teeth, and the
hard vrange wood is the best, for a
toothpick should never be used a sec
ond time. A toothpick will remove the
particle of food and the soft tartar
better than dental floss. After cleans
ing tho teeth with the brush and what
ever dentifrice is used, pass the pointed
end of the toothpick between the teeth;
then wind a w-Isp of cotton on the
other end, dip it In the saturated solu
tion of boric acid and wipe around the
gums and between the teeth front and
back; afterwards rinse the teeth thor
oughly with the solution. Do this after
each meal and the tartar will not col
lect, the gums will harden and a well
nigh perfect cleanliness will be ob
tained. Leap Tear Delusion.
Nashville American.
Jf you are such a bashful bey,
Yu hide away when she is near.
Or tf she gives you halt a chance
t'ut for tlit- timber tall In tear.
If that describes you to m T,
Pray, how do you. my lad. luppon
The leap-year lady ever will
Gel near enough, sir, to propose?
She cannot stand across the street
And shout It a you saunter past.
Or rush madly from the house
And lay, r v capt ured you at last.
She cannot from an upper floor
v'all to you through a megaphone
Or clear across a candy store
Propose to you In strident tone.
Of course, If she has mind to write.
The mall is there at her command.
With 2 cent and an envelope
She may her feelings, warm, expand,
Or she could use a telephone
And call to you in accents sweet.
Or in response to your "Hello"
Might jy, "Weil, how about It, Peter
She might do these, but she will not.
For If you et her to propose
Tou ll have to take her by the hand
And all your Inner heart disclose
To lead her srntly to the point.
In fact. It is a better plan
And one that alwas makes a hit.
To beat her to it. If you can.
This promises to be a strong skirt-and-eoat
season. The jumper, so popular last
Summer and Fall and the shirtwaist suit,
so dearly beloved of women for many
seasons, have both been retired In favor
of tailored skirts and matching coats for
all street wear. This rule holds good
whether the fabric be cloth, silk or "tub"
goods. What is more, the jacket is an
out and out jacket, with mannish lines,
long sleeves.- tailored reveres and a vest,
or a suggestion thereof. The natty little
Eton with a mere apology for sleeves,
the cape, the fichu these are all - very
well in their place, which is not on the
street.
, The Eton appears as & sleeveless coatee
of lace or net. or other contrasting ma
terial over a house frock. The fichu may
be seen on a dancing or dinner dress with
surplice or Empire lines, -but do not be
inveigled into buying anything eape-l'.ke
for street wear. The cape fad was short
lived, and wisely thus. It makes every
woman look old.
The second-best tailored suit, which
every woman must have for shopping,
marketing, walking and informal visit
ing of relatives and intimates, is some
thing quite apart from her calling or
church suit. It is far more simple, and
yet it Is apt to cost not so very much
less. That is because good lines come
high, and the plainer the suit, the better
must be the lines.
As to fabrics. Mixed weaves reign this
Spring In all cloths. In colors it is wisest
to choose between those without heat,
such as gray, blues (of which there seem
to be dozens), greens, or black and white.
Mustard color has died a natural death,
which is a good thing, as It was becom
ing to but few persons. All browns, reds
and deep purples seem to absorb and re
flect heat, so avoid hem if you may have
but one tailored suit this Spring.
Three-tone stripes are good, but later
there promises to be a reaction in favor
Pleasant Pastime for Women in Perfume Industry
NO LESS a person than the United
States Secretary of Agriculture says
officially that there is a pleasant
and profitable pastime for women in the
perfume industry.
Here is his recipe:
Many roses should be planted, -and
culled . before the .-bloom has lost its sweet
ness. The buds and half-open blooms
are boiled In pure fat for several hours,
the fat strained, new flowers added and
the whole boiled again.
This process is repeated four times, and
the pomade Is considered saturated with
the essence of roses.
Spirits in the proportion of a gallon
to eight pounds of the paste is added,
and the result is esprit de rose. This is
kept to. mix with grosser perfumes, a
9rop being sufficient to impart an - ex
quisite fragrance to any compound.
From attar of roses are made all the
fashionable perfumes now in such gen
eral use. It requires about 600 pounds
of rose leaves to produce one .ounce of
attar, worth about $175. Of course very
little of this arrives in America in a
pure state; it is too valuable not to be
counterfeited and diluted.
4I would be glad," he says, "to see
some of our women who are seeking
profitable investments take up this work.
But, as I said at the outset, I am not in
a position to give facts and figures. I
have had too much on hand to take the
question up, but I am thoroughly con
vinced that it would be an industry
CI TAW A Y SlIT
of infinitesimal checks and broken lines
which resemble more than anything a
tiny chicken's claw.
Black and white pin stripes are over
laid with tiny, fine bright color designs
and often have matching borders, broad
stripes of all black, or black and white.
The woman who is limited in the num
ber of her tailor-mades, however, should
eschew violent color contrasts, and also
borders, as they will be rather common
before .the season wanes.'
Crude, plain colors are not in demand.
Mixed goods of any sort take precedence
and the more subtle the color combina
tion, the better.
In silks, what has been known for
years as rajah, a rough, heavy pongee,
reappears this season under several new
names and perhaps in a more supple
quality, though it lends itself to tailoring.
It is generally, self toned, but with a
shadowy weave. It is particularly fetch
ing in steel grays and gunmetal. This
silk Is heavily braided for two-piece suits.
A cloth two-piece suit and one in silk
or linen should be included In the ward
robe of every well-dressed woman. She
should never appear on a city street with
out a jacket.
The smartest skirt for youthful, trim
figures, whatever the age, is ankle length.
The matronly figure, however, demands a
skirt that escapes the ground by an inch
and one-half only.
Pleats hold good for Spring skirts, and
the new pleated skirt is practically tin
trimmed but very full. The gored skirts
have a pronounced ripple or flare, and fit
the figure snugly about the hips. Cut
away styles remain good in jackets, and
perhaps the rounded fronts take preced
ence for severe tailored coats; the long,
graceful points for more dressy effects-.
The vest is everywhere seen, and is one
of the expensive features of the Spring
suit. Braided vests are the least ex
pepsive, and In best taste for tailored
coats. Silk, embroidered, or lace vests be
long to dressier coats. v
which would furnish employment for
many and bring in good interest on the
money invested.
"The details must be gathered by study
ing the systems employed in France.
Italy, Germany and other countries. If
our good women are in search of some
thing new and profitable in the way of
investment and employment, the way Is
open right here. The conditions are en
tirely favorable for growing all kinds of
flowers and buibs, and it will doubtless
prove an industry which would develop
and grow with wonderful rapidity.
"Whatever assistance this department
can give any one who may desire to en
ter the flower growing field will be will
ingly and cheerfully given. We are here
for the purpose of furnishing whatever
information we are enabled to gather by
and from our experiments and investiga
tions along all lines, and It is the public's
simply for the asking.'
. "Our experts are in the field continually,
and whatever they may learn is for the
benefit of our people. That is what these
men and women are paid for.
"A love for flowers is always commend
able, but a love for their essences their
souls, so to speak is almost universal
and entirely praiseworthy, and it shows
civilization and refinement.
"It is generally understood that we of
this country are a plain, matter-of-fact
people, most of us bffsied in building,
growing corn and cotton, running rail
roads, making money in -every way, and
careless of luxuries; buj think of our
noses costing us, one year with another,
something like a round million for ex
tracts, pomades and the like.
IX GRAY.
No. 1 is a study in . gray cloth with
a faint suggestion of blue. The skirt
is cut in 'nine gores and then kilted, with
a single fold for trimming. The coat is
a semifitted cutaway for wear aver
starched shirtwaists. The trimming con
sists of stitching and straps of soutache
holding down the buttons.
No. 2 shows the -three-tone stripe in
fluence, ftaav, white and black French
worsted with trimmings of fine bUrvk
broadcloth. The 'skirt is a seven-gored
ripple model, which fits spleVididly over
the. hips. The cutaway is slashed on
square lines and trimmed wtth bias bands
of the material.
No. 3 shows a most effective use of the
two-tone gunmetal silk with braiding.
This skirt Is box pleated, and the coat
has a vest of pompadour ribbon, very
heavy with shadowy flowers, showing
grays, yellows and burnt rose. Vesting
can be bought in patterns, but a skillful
search for remnants of silk, cloth or rib
bon will usually save money. ,
It will be noted that all the sleeves in
these costumes are long. The three
quarter, not elbow,, sleeve is seen with
more dressy two-piece suits, but not for
morning wear.
The cutaway coat demands beautiful
and immacuiate neckwear, fluffy bows,
good collars, etc., and a hat that is chic
and rather stiff, never soft and droopy.
Practically no separate belts are seen
this 9pring. For each suit, a belt of
matching material is provided, a narrow,
simply stitched belt-, for the stout,
matronly figure; a corselet or higher
shaped belt for the slender, long-waisted
figure. . ' -
For, shirtwaists, white linen, madras
plain or figured,, and percales are in
vogue, to wear' with these two-piece
suits. Every effort is being made to force
the colored shirtwaist on the market.
but the woman who has few blouses will
do well to stick to white, with a dash of
color In the tie. . MARY DEAN.
"Why. we pay out more than $300,000
annually for imports of attar of roses
alone, when there is no necessity for
disbursing one red cent for an article
-wh ieh can be made right here. We
couldn't raise tea in this country, either,
the croakers said, but we are growing
the finest flavored teas in the world, and
their cultivation Is carrying thousands of
dollars annually into the pockets of the
women and children of the South. Tea
cultivation is not only giving them wages,
but employment that is light and pleasant.
"I repeat: We can grow any and every
thing in this great country of ours, and
the thing to do is to get in line and get at
it, thus keeping our money at home to
give comforts to women and girls, . and
goodness knows that- those in the rural
districts have a hard enough time at best.
"But, come to think of it, I supposa
there are lots of overworked shopgirls
who would" be far better off physically
and mentally, to say nothing of the moral
ffJdt?, if " they were raising tea or silk
worms or cultivating flowers for the per
fume. 1 1t is my understanding that for
the latter work very little capital is re
quired, the machinery being comparative
ly simple and inexpensive.
"A few dollars will start a business, and
there is always & demand for every es
sence or extract which can be produced.
Now, as in olden times, the rose is the
queen of perfumes, as it is the queen of
the garden, and attar of roses is more
than worth its weight in gold."
NEW DENIM
CURTAINS
NEW denim curtains are decorated
with trees and art nouveau flowers
in- some contrasting color red, brown or
green. Some insidious women even use
a- twining vine or poinsetta design, which
runs from the bottom of the curtain to
within two feet of the pole. The idea Is
very good, for In trimming of curtains of
either denim or burlap the design may
be pasted on or machine stitched around
the edge. It is true that it gives a sort
of outre effect to a room, "but when used
in the library or "den" their appearance
is not unapppopriate. Many women carry
out the same idea in the table cover of
tan linen with blossoms of burlap. In
the latter case,- of course, the design
must be stitched to the cover, for the con
stant washing would certainly ruin it.
A library furnished with soft cushions,
table cover, curtains and portieres in
green denim decorated with red poin
setta in burlap or leather is most at
tractive and cheerful. The idea is most
appropriate for the country home or sea
shore, for silk and handsome curtains
are not suitable for Summer.
The library In a large country house
recently visited was furnished entirely in
dark green denim. The curtains of the
same were decorated with large brown
burlap tulips, and even the mantelpiece
was hung with drapery to match. The
sash curtains at the window were filet
net, darned with linen thread in some
large conventional design; while the
paper on the watl harmonized with the
idea and tone of the whole.- A prettier
room can hardly be imagined than was
this living-room.
Sometimes when the housekeeper de
sires to keep the whole furnishings of the
room in lighter materials, the porch fur
niture can be supplied with cushions and
covers of this kind, and they are so in
expensive that the weather may spoil
them without causing the 'thrifty house
wife any particular anxiety.
Getting Along With Children.
Ladies' "World.
Children need the "soft answer that
turneth away wrath" in most cases,
much more than the time-honored rod.
We make due allowance for the nerves
of grown-ups, but few people make
sufficient allowance for the nerves of
children, or indeed seem to think that
they have any. When children seem ir
ritable, and we can see no apparent
cause, it is much better to leave them
alone for a short while, not pressing
any questions upon them, and above all
we should not allow our own irritation
to get into our tones when talking
to them. I know of one little six-year-old
who is all amiability and animation
at school, yet when he gets home he'
cannot bear to be asked many ques
tions without showing extreme nerv
ousness and annoyance. He has simply
kept up to the demands at school and
his nervous force is not equal to fur
ther strain. Ilis mother has wisely
found that what he needs is to play
outdoors awhile, until he relaxes, and
then he is amiable and sweet-tempered
again. Such temperaments are hard to
deal with, and require study and much
patience, with little if any physical
punishment. Right guidance, and hold
ing the right ideal, is the only safe
course.
GliST-METAl.
SII,
Manners and the Young Man
THE personable young man In the
average American city has de
veloped fnto a much pampered In
dividual. If he dances well, makes a
pleasing dinner partner and gives a lit
tle attention to purple and fine linen,
and sends an occasional bouquet of vio
lets to -particularly favored women, he is
very apt to be placed on a social pedestal
which is good for neither his mentality
nor his manners.-
So many American men give them
selves over entirely to the pursuit of
wealth or fame that the young man who
can gracefully keep up the social life
and still score a moderate business suc
cess is in a fair way to be spoiled by
over-appreciative women friends. At
first, warmed by glow of social success,
he is extremely careful about paying his
obligations. He shows his appreciation
of invitations by dancing even with the
. wall flowers, about whom his hostess Is
worried. He makes his dinner calls "re
ligiously, and is especially careful to be
attentive to the out-of-town guests af
such women as have made him welcome
in their homes.
But in time, to quote a country ex
pression, "he feels his oats." He over
estimates his Importance, and lta be
comes careless as to social obligations.
At the dance he bestows his attentions
only upon the belle of the evening, or
the newest girl, the out-of-town guest.
If pleasing partners are not plentiful,
he lounges in the smoking room when
too bored to dance. He is no longer
punctilious as to the hours for calling,
and he is very apt to annoy the hus
band of some Influential hostess by
lounging in their comfortable living room
at most inopportune hours, filling the
air with smoke, and his host's choicest
.Cloisonne bowl with ashes. " But he has
become a fixture in the social world, and
somehow manages to retain his foothold.
And the saddest part of the situation is
that young men, new to the town and
Its social life, are very apt to accept him
as a model of good .form, for what they
are apt to call "smart manners."
It is never "smart" to be rude. The
young man who honestly desires to be
eligible and welcome at nice homes will
observe the following rules:
Never remain seated so long as a
woman is standing, and always rise to
be Introduced to anyone, be it man or
woman.
Always ask permission to Introduce a
man friend to a woman. You should
never say "Miss Smith, I want to in
troduce you to Mr. Jones." Rather say,
"Miss Smith, may I introduce my friend.
Mr. Jones, to you?" You present the
man to the woman, not the woman to
the man.
Never carry your hat and overcoat
into a parlor. Leave them- in the hall
on the hat rack, else on a chair near
the door of the paVlor. Nothing' Is so
annoying as a young man who sits and
twirls a cane, plays with his gloves,
etc., during an evening call. Bid your
hostess good night, shaking her. hand
if you so desire, then go into the hall
and put on your coat, hat and gloves.
Never shake hands with a woman while
3Vur hand is gloved, unless meeting her
on the street. In a house, remove your
glove.
If you have been entertained at. a din
ner or musicale, you should call upon
your hostess within two weeks. . For
mal calls should last about half an hour,
and never get so familiar that you stay
until your hostess yawns and wishes
you were home. In other words, "do
not wear your welcome out."-
Never stay later than 11 at night, and
this only among Intimate friends. It
your hostess seems to be enjoying your
call and you are likewise entertained by
her company, leave at a reasonable hour,
asking permission to come soon again,
but do not stay until the young lady is
apt to be reprimanded by her parents.
When you enter a room, seek the host
ess at once. Even if you see some friends
and want to talk to them, you should
first greet your hostess, returning to your
friends afterwards. And never make tho
fatal mistake of leaving a house without
bidding the hostess good-bye. Do not
axue with yourself, "She is busy and
K AXD BRAID.
I'll just slip out." When ,she Is not
busy she will miss you and recall that
you left without showing this courtesy;
If you are a guest at a dinner, and
your partner is not congenial If .the
girl you admire sits across the table, do
not neglect your partner for this reason.
Talk to her, no matter how stupid and
unattractive she Is. . After the dinner Is
over and guests are sitting in the drawing-room,
you can seek Oft a more com
panionable person with whom to con
verse; but while you are at the table
your attentions must be centered on the
young woman whom your hostess as
signed to your care.
Do not be lax in your attentions to
the mothers. Many a girl has been won
by the courteous tfeatment a young man
shows her parents. And many a girl
has been lost because some young man
thought such politeness a pure waste of
time. Do something - for the old ladles
once in a. while. Your reward will not
be a blush and a flirtatious glance from
snapping eyes, but the return will come
in other and perhaps more substantial
ways.
. Do not plead a very common excuse,
"I never have time to write notes." Wa
all know that the writing of a note con
sumes but a few minutes, and there is nu
excuse for not writing a line now and
then. Send your acceptances or regrets
promptly. PRUDENCE STANDISH.
The Utilizing of the
Canned Supplies
The housewife who, last Fall, stocked
her pantry and storeroom with all sorts
of canned goods, is very apt to find quite
a few of them still on; hand, with fresh
vegetables 'and fruits of early Spring
looming up on the horizon. Stewed to
matoes, canned corn warmed over in
milk, canned peas heated in butter ths
family are all sick of all these by now.
If- canned supplies are- to be used, they
must now be disguised by clever cookery.
Corn Pudding Take a can of corn and
put in a chopping bowl and chop tho
corn very fine. Now rt ln baklrg-Cish
and add to this corn one cup of rich
milk; butter the size of a walnut, two
tablespoons of sugar and two eggs which
have been well heated. Stir all. together
and bake in a moderate oven for one
hour.
Corn Oysters The name Is taken from
the shape of the corn when cooked. Take
half a can of corn and chop fine, add to
this the yolk of one egg, salt and pepper
to taste. Mix well and then add the
white of the egg, which has been beaten
very stiff. Drop on hot frying pan in
lard, about the size of an oyster and fry
brown on both sides. If you find the
corn is very dry, you can add a little
milk to thin the batter before frying.
Pilan Half a can of tomatoes, one cup
of rice, one pint of water, one cup ot
diced meat, one-half tablespoon of curry,
one-half teaspoon of salt, two table
spoons of butter, one-half teaspoon of
onion and a little pepper. Heat the to
matoes and water, add onion, and as
soon as it boils add. one cup of rice, meat
and curry, salt and cook until the rice Is
tender, which will be about 30 minutes.
Add the butter when ready to serve.
Serve on toast.
Stuffed Peppers Parboil either red or
green peppers. Cut the top ofT, leaving
the stem on. however. Remove all the
seeds and fill with the following recipe:
Take a can of corn and chop line, add to
it a tablespoon of melted butter, a table
spoon of cream, two eggs, well beaten,
salt and pepper to taste. Fill the peppers
with this mixture, put on the cover and
bake in a quick oven.
Cherry Tapioca Pudding Soak one
small cup of tapioca ln water over night'.
In the morning add a pinch of salt to
it and cook until clear; then add butter
the size of an egg. one heaping cup of
cherries, half a cup of sherry wine and
sugar enough to suit your taste. Flavor
with teaspoon of vanilla, turn into bak
ing dish and bake until brown. Serve
very cd with -cream. If the flavor of
nutmeg is liked, grate a little on the
puddiDg before putting it in the oven.