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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 16, 1908)
T1!K SUNDAY ORECOMAX, PORTL-AXD, FEBRUARY 16, 10O8. Si in PEA0TT The Easter Bridal Frocks FittingtheFigure to Finery THE Easter Bride is now deep in tier chopping, planning and dress making. If her purse is well-lined with gold, she will be utterly bewil dered by the wealth of fabrics, trim mings, etc., on the freshly-laden coun ters. If her income is decidely limited, she will do well to state clearly to the clerks the prices slus is willing to pay, and as sternly must she turn her back upon the marvelous lace and French trimmings which are a feature of the incoming Spring modes. Yet even tho girl of limited means will llnd charming returns for her ex penditures. One economical feature in trimming, especially, is the amount. of self-garniture employed and the ten dency toward small quantities of fine trimming on the bodice or even yoke alone, while thdtrest of the' garment is plain. few general hints as to fabrics, colors, and striking fashion features. All' the new fabrics arc extremely light In weight and supple. The new foulards, for instance, are actually thinner and lighter in weight than they were last season, but fully as strong and durable. The chiffon broadcloths for going-away gown's are as thin as henrietta cloth or cashmere and have a sheenlike satin effect. Hold the new French suitings up to tho light and they icem semi-transparent. Taffeta? and oth er heavy silks have given place to the softest of messallnes, the wash fabrics have the finish and weave of silk voile or marquisette, and of th making of nets for wedding gowns thero is prac tically no end. In colors, there is no doubt that purple and its paler tints, lavender, violet, heliotropo and the more pinkish orchid hues had died a violent death. On the other hand, for going-away frocks and silk house dresses, brown and its closo color connections are in great favor. The new" browns are coppery in hue, the new tans are golden in their high lights. The new blues have a decided tendency toward green ish lights, and the vry smartest "color of all for the going-away frock is sage or tea creen. Made up with plen ty of white relief, sage or light tea green is beeomng to anyone save the hopelessly sallow woman. Hurling the delicately tinted broad cloths, very few plain cloths are seen. For suitings, stripes, less pronounced ami more shadowy than those worn during the Winter, are much seen, and broken checks will make stunning tai lored suits for tall, slim brides. There Is on foot a movement toward chocked skirts and plain cutaway or Ixuls coats, but this combination in only for the wo man who can afford many suits. The Paquin skirt has fallen very flat and the pleated skirt remains in high favor for tailored suits, while for house gowns, party frocks, etc., the gored 6kirt of supple cloth laid In fine tucks at the waist is particularly good both as to style and for tho lingers of the homo dressmaker. Sleeves on dressy costumes are very elaborate, split this way and that, and filled In with ruffles of fine materials or lace, but on tailored suits they are Etiquette for the GOOD form on the wedding day starts many a couple smooth sailing on the sea of matrimony. Family dissensions, misunderstandings, and little heart burnings which have their origin at the very wedding feast often end in serious trouble between the bride and groom or their newly acquired relatives. I am, therefore, taking up in order the questions most commonly asked by my correspondents. Who pays for what? Tho groom nays for the ring, the minister's fee, and the carriage which takes him and his best man to the church and hi briilo and himself from the house to the depot. He also pays for the bride's boquct. That is all. The bride, or more properly speaking her '.parents, pay for everything else. This means that If you are married in a church you must pay for the music, for opening the church, the decorations, the organist's fee, etc. The bride orders and pays for all the invitations, the stamps, tho carriages for . herself, her bridesmaids and ushers. She buys boquets for her attendants, pays all catering bills, and. in fact, everything not mentioned under the liabilities of the groom. The parents in planning the wedding should bear this fact in mind, and give a wed ding that is strictly within their income and which will not be followed by a cloud of bills to "pay which they may in time be' forced to ask help from the new son-in-law. Invitations should be sent out two weeks before the date of the wedding. Tliey should bo engraved and mailed in sealed envelopes with 2-cent stamps. The plainest dead white paper Is used, absolutely oid of any decorations save the necessary lettering. An approved form is: Mr. and Mrs. Henry Lowell Smith Bridal Gown In Mescaline, C'hlffol nnd l,ocf. Slim severely plain, full length and of man nish cut. Some of the loveliest bridal gowns, now under process of construction, show comparatively simple trimmings, such as innumerable ruchlngs of chif fon, tulle or net on soft messaline or satin-finished eurah,' forming a border around the hem ef the skirt, on the bretelles and sleeves, with a little fine lace in the yoke. The girl who has some real lace but only a little, need nut despair. However trifling this may be. It will give just the correct finish ing touch to her bridal gown. In planning frocks for bridesmaids, it is .well to think of the lovely colored muslins over -silk slips. These color; Ings are absolutely perfect, and par ticularly fetching for bridesmaids are the pale blues and pinks and yellows, embroidered In white or if the purse be small, colored muslins merely stamped in white give the same effect. Three effective models are shown to day. First the bridal drees, which Is inexpensive yet charmnig, up-to-date,-and within the financial means of the average Easter bride. The model from which It was sketched was developed In messaline, chiffon and heavy allover lace. The skirt and overblouse were of the messaline, the yoke and sleeves of shirred and ruffled chiffon. Tiny ruffles of the chiffon finished the bot tom of the skirt, and over this hung a border' of heavy point de Venise. The same laco formed tho revers and collar. The same pattern could be developed in crepe de chine, which, though not so smart this season, is always depend able, trimmed with allover lace and ruchings of soft faille ribbon. And if the bride-elect is of economical mind and desires to use her wedding frock later for dressy Summer evening wear, she may develop the design in organdie or very sheer batiste or linen, with matching embroidery and fine Val. lace. Such a gown will either dry clean or launder, and will prove a most useful addition to the Summer wardrobe. It will require 15 yards of 27-inch goods If made with a train of medium length, and a train every bride should wear. Tulle veiling ' and white glace kid gloves, white slippers, preferably satin embroidered with pearls, or with pearl or lace or ribbon rosettes and white silk stockings should accompany this frock. No black slippers or ho siery are ever worn by a white-robed bride. The bridesmaid gown pictured shows the tunic or overskirt effect now used by the tall girl. This is Becured en tirely by the application of the trim ming In deep points. Tho bodice fea tures the newest stole effect, with tassel finish. This frock was of pale green mullc, trimmed with delicate ecru laee which, by the way, formed the very high collar and yoke, while the girdle was of green silk, matchl.-g exactly the tint of the mulle. The going-away suit is in Delft blue and white check, witli cuffs and collar of blue velvet, outlined by a narrow novelty braid showing blue, white and silver. With the hflp of a tailor, to finish off the coat, this effective but very simple costume can be made at home, but a tailor should stitch and canvas the coat, ..Note that-only one fold Is used on the skjrt, and that the hat has a decided upward tilt on the left side. These are features of Spring styles. . MARY . DEAN. Wedding Day Request the . honor of your presence at the marriage of their daughter Mary Louise to Mr. Theodore Greene Lyons on Wednesday afternoon, February the tenth At four o'clock First Presbyterian Church Holyoke. If there is to be a reception at the house after the church ceremony then cards should be enclosed to that effect. Reception from half past four o'clock 19 Washington Road. As soon as the invitations have been sent out the prospective bride should lay In a store of nice note paper on which to acknowledge her gifts. She should not write lengthq, newsy letters to each friend who sends a gift, but a brief cordial note of thanks. It Is well to have two forms ready, one of a formal nature for people whom you know slightly and another more chatty for your Immediate friends and relatives. Each day notes should be sent out in thanks . for the presents received, thus saving that rush that is apt to come if it is put off from time to time. Gifts are sent to the girl while she is Miss Smith and should be acknowledged under that name. At a church wedding the groom with his best man awaits the ' bride at the altar. The bridal party on entering the church Is made up as follows: The ushers, two abreast come first, followed by the bridesmaids, also two abreast, then the maid of honor and finally the bride on the arm of her father or some male relative. On leaving the church after the ceremony, the bride and groom come first, the maid of honor on the arm of the best man, then the bridesmaids and lastly the ushers. The father joins the family In leaving the church after the bridal party. One side of the church near the altar is 'reserved for the bride's family and the other for friends and family of the groom. Guests follow the bridal party leisurely to the house where the reception is held. They greet the bride first, wishing her much happiness. Do not congratulate a bride, but tho groom. . The parents of the bride stand .next to her and the parents of the groom next to him. The ushers escort the guests up to the bridal party and the bridesmaids stand in line to help receive them. The bride introduces to her husband any persons whom he does not know, and he performs a like service for her. If a buffet supper is served, guests drop Into the dining-room as they would at an afternoon tea. If a formal supper is served t tables, the bride and groom with their attendants are seated at one table in the center of the room. The guests are seated about them at small tables. When a bride and groom return from their trip, friends and relatives call upon them as soon as they are settled, or as soon as the couple announce their first day at home. A word about the dressing of the groom. At a day-time wedding the cor rect dress ig frock coat and gray trousers, with gray gloves and white puff tie. Some men argue that frock coats are -not be coming, therefore a cutaway or sack suit is better. Such an argument Is to bo utterly disregarded on this occasion. In the evening, the correct dress is a full dress suit, swallowtail, white vest, tie and gloves. PRUDENCE STAN DISH. Some Simple Devices to Eradicate Freckles IVHEN they want the operator. W they want him quick. If. he can't be reached it means a. disastrous wreck and loss of life," observed an in ventor. "But with the telemeter, any point can be reached on a railway system. If the operator cannot be got by wire, then a signal can be thrown by the dis patcher to hold up any train at any point." He was talking about a device which is being experimented with on a. section of the Boston & Maine Railroad. It had been mentioned that in one year 6000 rear and front-end railway collisions had oc curred in the United States. The killed and lnjuredi had .numbered In these disas ters 11,000 passengers and 43,000 employes. And the property loss had been $10,000,000. Some of the greatest wrecks of America have been due to the inability of a train dispatcher to get the operator at a given point. Perhaps he was absent somewhere in the station yard on the company's business. For a country operator is gen erally station agent, freight agent and baggagemaster combined. Or he may have been asleep. At any rate he couldn't be raised and the train dispatcher had to stand helplessly by knowing that a train laden with passengers was rushing to de struction. That is where the telemeter would do the trick, according to tho inventor. It wouldn't make any difference should the operator be absent from his post. If he were within hearing he would be sum moned by a gong. The same would wake him were he asleep. Should he be out of earshot and the train dispatcher did not receive a response to his call, a signal could be shown by the dispatcher at the point received by the simple process of pressing a key. For instance, suppose a telemeter were GOING AWAY OLTFIT IX BI.VK AND attached to a telegraph line between Bos ton and Portland,1 'Maine.' The""operator would be able to call any station: without disturbing any other station. This -.system is so organized that it may be quickly ap plied to a line without modification of the existing apparatus. - '.'.''"'- If a train were to pass a slven 'point between these, two stations and it -was necessary to catch that train at the next station to prevent a collision with anoth er that is where the telemeter would be a godsend. Perhaps the operator at the station the train dispatcher would try to reach could not be got. No answer came to his frantic call. " 1 If the train passed that point there must be a wreck. After" the dispatcher had tried to -get the operator and received no answer to his signals, he would then press his key to throw the semaphore and the colored light signal would bring the train to a standstill at the sta tion. . - What telegraphers say is "the beauty of this contrivance is that the dispatcher can call any station on .the system, and over a single line, without disturbing in the least the ordinary b.usitfess or work ing of the telegraph. The telemeter is simple in construction, is attachable to the present telegraph wires, and requires no additional wire whatever. Further more, it docs not interfere with the usual telegraph Instruments In actua.l opera tion, and enables the dispatcher to place himself Into immediate communication with any operator on his line. The telemeter seems to be human, only more unerring. For after the dispatcher has failed to raise the operator by sound ing the call and then the gong, he sets the signal for the train to stop. Imme diately there comes to him a response automatically, telling whether the signal has acted or, not. It. enables the dispatcher to " set and .WHITE. display any semaphore or light on his line from his own office. And it returns Information as to whether that particu lar semaphore or light has been set. No operator on the line can tamper with it in any way, so that false signals cannot be shown. In their State street offices, one of the Inventors showed its working to an au dience of railway men last week. With three tables holding each instrument, he showed how one call was sent from one station to another by the regular tele graph key. A gong sounded at the table called. That is the, signal for the opera tor which will call him should he be away from his sounder. "Suppose he Isn't within-call," said the Inventor. Then he pressed the key again. At the same table there was a whirr of the in strument, a signal lamp showed its colors and a semaphore was swupg. At the same time his own sending instrument registered that the signal had been shown. "That would stop the train, wherever the operator might be. for it would be a signal to the engineer a signal of dan ger ordering him to stop," said the in ventor. There is also, an attachment in con nection with the instrument which is calculated to prevent delays and block ades 'of trains where freights In isolated sidetracks cannot be reached with orders. For these attachments, placed in small boxes at every siding, can be used by the conductors of such trains to report their whereabouts. By a code of signals they can bo notified whether, to stop or proceed. The conductors do not require to know telegraphy. They have only to ring in the simplest signals. In a favorable wind a fox can scent a ma a one-quarter of a mile away. OW often a bride ruins the picture presented by her well-gowned party at the altar by her own awkward position! Perhaps, she does not ' stand erect, but allows her body to curve like a half-hoop released from the staples around a barrel. Perhaps she stands with her abdomen out and her chest sunken ap if she were actually tilting backward; or with one foot thrust forward, and one shoulder lower than the other. And the poor dressmaker who turned out that lovely white gown is severely criticised for its poor fit! The post-Lenten bride has still time to make her figure worthy of the most ex quisite gown ever made by a dressmaker. If sho will only give half an hour daily to improving her figure or in reforming her habit of walking and standing, she will see results before the Easter lilies nod on the wedding altar. First "Do you know how to stand?" Employ first the test of the old Italian woman whom you see carrying on her head a great bundle of pants and coats or even scantlings from buildings that are being demolished.. Note that this woman has a perfectly straight line down tho front. Her head Is absolutely In line with the front of her body the better to balance tho bundle. Her chin' is in, her chest is thrown forward, but her stomach is drawn in and her shoulders are absolutely straight and level. See whether you can do the same. Se lect several monthly ciagazines and tie them together. Use these as a weight on your head. Stand motionless before the mirror, your anna hanging relaxed at either side. Then just let one shoulder droop, or your chest sink while the abdo men protrudes, and see what will happen. The parcel of magazines will tumble to the floor. . Stand erect before the mirror for five minutes, every two hours during tho day, and in connection take a few deep breath ing exercises'. In, this absolutely correct position, inhale steadily and -deeply through your nose, with the lips closed while you count seven mentally and de liberately. This should expand tho chest further and aLso inflate or raise the dia phragm, but it should not knock the magazines oft your head. If It does, you have changed the position of some part of your body and fallen back into your bad habits. Exhale through the mouth while counting five. Occasionally practice walking with a load on your head, or with a flower or rosette laid on the upper curved part of the chest and bust. Do not look down at tho flower' or rosette, but walk with the sense that-you must not allow it to fall to the floor. Another exercise very useful in secur H Essentials for Wedding Feast THE three essentials for a wedding breakfast or supper are tho coffee, the salad and the cake. Have what hot dish you will, or such sandwiches as your fancy may indicate or any number hors d'euvres, but the staples remain rich, hot, amber-colored coffee, a salad with considerable body such as chicken or lob ster, made with the best of mayonnaise dressing, and the good old-fashioned wed ding cake, rich with fruit, which crum bles at the touch of the knife, and the delicate white bride's cake. Trust the preparation of these to no inexperienced hand, but put into them the best energies at your command. Old-Fnohluneil Wcddluic C'akei Fruit for this should be prepared in advance as follows: Six cups of currants, washed, dried and picked. Three cups of raisins; three cups of citron cut In fine strips, one-half cup of candied lemon peel, two cups of almonds, blanched and cut In shreds. In a warm bowl mix four cups of butter and four cups of sugar, granu lated or confectioner's, beat these to gether until very light. Break iO eggs into another bowl, but do not beat them. Cover a waiter with a big sheet of paper; sift four pints of flour over this; add the fruit and the following spices: Two tea spoons "each of nutmeg, mace and cinna mon, one tablespoon each of cloves and allspice. Mix these together and stand aside ready for use. Have ready in a little pitcher half pint of best brandy. Select a deep cake tin and grease wkii butter, line it inside with white paper and on the outside and bottom four or five thicknesses of very coarse wrapping pa per, which you must tie on. Have your oven hot and the fire banked so It will not burn out quickly. Now beat the butter and sugar once more, add the eggs two at a time, beating the mixture with each ad dition. When this is done, turn in the flour arid fruit with brandy. Mix thor oughly, pour Into the cake tin, cover with several thicknesses "of brown paper and tjake eight hours in a steady oven. Ice with thin coating made with the white of eggs, a few drops of cold water and confectioner's sugar. White Bride's Cake: Take the whites of eight 'eggs and beat very stiff, one pound of sugar, one of flour, one cup of sweet milk, one-Ifalf pound or but ter (scant), half teaspoon of soda, two teaspoons of cream tartar. Cream the butter and sugar and add slowly the milk and soda, dissolving the soda in tepid water. Sift the cream of tartar with the flour and add the flour alternately with" the white of the eggs. Flavor with vanilla or almond and bake in a square loaf. Muyonnnle Dressing: The secret of a successful mayonnaise dressing is large ly the temperature of the ingredients and the utensils used in mixing them. The hard boiled eggs should be cooked -early in the day and put in the ice box to chill, the oil and the raw eggs should be kept dn the refrigerator for at least 24 hours before using. The bowl in which you mix the dressing, the fork you use should likewise be ice-cold. Take the yolk of an egg and drop into a bowl and beat with a fork until per fectly blended, then add drop by drop (do not make the mistake of letting It run in a tiny stream), add one, pint of the best olive oil. Into another bowl put the yolks of the two hard boiled eggs and rub into them a dash of cayenne pepper and half a teaspoon of salt. Now a very little at a. time add the beaten oil and yolk from the other bowl, beating con tinually with a fork. Add to this the chopped whites of the eggs and the juice of half a lemon or a few drops of vinegar. Mix well and lastly add the well-beaten white of the uncooked egg. This makes a delicious dressing if directions are fol lowed, mixing continually, with cold in gredients and utensils. ieir Vnftm Five gallons of coffee are sufficient for 10U wedding guests. Buy tho best quality of Mocha and Java, and have it pulverized. Two and a half pounds will insure' coffee of reasonab.e strength. If you want black coffee, or der three pounds. Place the pulverized coffee in bags of closely woven cheese cloth, tightly sewn, so that no coiiae can ing a good carriage is to stand with the chin sharply uplifted, so that the head is thrown back a trifle. This- can bo exag gerated when practicing in your rooju. The tendency of that uplifted chin will be to bring up your chest and throw back your shoulders, not aggressively, but evenly. Moreover, if your tendency is toward a double chin, this exercise will do much to counteract that unfortunate tendency. If the bust is fiat and shapeless, as often happens in the girl of sunken chest and drooping, shoulders, try two very fimple remedies. First, night and morn ing, bathe the upper part of your body with hot and cold water alternately. Do not use a sponge or wash rag, but lift the water In a cup and dash' it against the breasts. Then at night massage the breasts with an upward and outward movement, lifting them away from the walls of the chest. For this, moisten the hands with olive oil. I will also be glad to send upon receipt 'of self-addressed en velope the' formula of xa remedy to be taken Internally which will strengthen the tissues of the bust. . One thing more, the wedding gown this year must make, the girl look talh and slender, and there must be absolutely no sign of curving hips. Tills Is sad news to the stout girl who has been, so busy hemming and embroidering linen' and sewing on lace medallions that she has had no' real 'exercise for weeks and. ha acquired more pronounced hips than ever. But let her get busy at once with reduc tion exercises, 15 mintues three times a day. First, stand erect, as described in exer cises given abovo for the slouehy girl. Then raipc your arms above your shoul ders, the width of the chest apart, with the palms forward. Count seven, inhal ing through the nose, and bend toward; slowly with a sweeping, birdlikc motion, bending at the waist but keeping tho knees stiff, until tho finger tip-" touch the floor. Then, exhaling through the mouth, swing back to tho first position. Repeat this three times the first day, four the second, and so on until you can tako the exercise 20 or 30 times without feeling any strain. Another simple but useful exercise for reducing the hips is to lie on the floor, head, spinal column and heels touching the carpet, arms relaxed at the sides. Raise the right leg until it forms a right angle with the trunk. Then the left, and finally alternate the right and left. When you have done this, say a dozen times, roll over on the right side. Place your left hand on your hip, the right, palm down, on tho floor. Now gradually raise the body away from the floor until it is supported entirely by the right arm and the right foot. Repeat this exercise three times, then roll over and reverse, using the left hand and foot for support. KATH BRINK MORTON. escape. These bags should be cbout five or s;x inches square. There, are two methods of making t'.ie coffee with the bags. Either bring your water to a boil and put the bags into the boiling water, to let the coffee steep on the back of the stove, as you would tea. or place the bags of coffee into the cold water, aljow it to come to a boil very slowly, then boil briskly for three or lour minutes and set back to steep and keep hot. Of course, if you can hire a huge French percolator such as Is used by caterers! and hotel chefs, you will not need the bags. Double Fudge a New Confection WHO remarked that the last word has been said on the fudge ques tion? There is something new even of the fudge variety. At least, that is what the guests at an Informal party where "double" fudge was passed thought. , ' " To make it, boil two cupfuls of gran ulated sugar, half a cupful of rich milk, two squares of chocolate and a' tea spoonful of butter until it forms a soft ball when dropped Into cold water, Heat until grained, and turn into a shallow pan. Then boil two cupfuls of brown sugar and a cupful of milk until at the soft ball stage; add a teaspoon ful of butter, a cupful of nut meats and a teaspoonful of vanilla; beat' until creamy, and turn over the other fudge. When cool, mark off Into squares.' Marslimallow fudge, which has been the Waterloo of many good candy makers, is delicious If the marshmal lows get melted enough before the fudge hardens. This is the way they make it at Wellesley: A pound- (two cupfuls) of granulated sugar and a cupful of rich milk are heated together, two squares of chocolate are stirred in, and the mixture boiled until It is waxy, when rolled between the fingers. Just before the last stage is reached a small piece of butter is added and half a pound of marshmallows are stirred in, little by little, crushing and beating each as it goes In. The syrup is then turned Into a buttered shallow pan, and when it begins to harden is cut into squares. , Bridrmald's Frock In I'ale Green Mulle.
