T1!K SUNDAY ORECOMAX, PORTL-AXD, FEBRUARY 16, 10O8.
Si
in
PEA0TT
The Easter Bridal Frocks
FittingtheFigure to Finery
THE Easter Bride is now deep in
tier chopping, planning and dress
making. If her purse is well-lined
with gold, she will be utterly bewil
dered by the wealth of fabrics, trim
mings, etc., on the freshly-laden coun
ters. If her income is decidely limited,
she will do well to state clearly to the
clerks the prices slus is willing to pay,
and as sternly must she turn her back
upon the marvelous lace and French
trimmings which are a feature of the
incoming Spring modes.
Yet even tho girl of limited means
will llnd charming returns for her ex
penditures. One economical feature in
trimming, especially, is the amount. of
self-garniture employed and the ten
dency toward small quantities of fine
trimming on the bodice or even yoke
alone, while thdtrest of the' garment is
plain.
few general hints as to fabrics,
colors, and striking fashion features.
All' the new fabrics arc extremely
light In weight and supple. The new
foulards, for instance, are actually
thinner and lighter in weight than they
were last season, but fully as strong
and durable. The chiffon broadcloths
for going-away gown's are as thin as
henrietta cloth or cashmere and have a
sheenlike satin effect. Hold the new
French suitings up to tho light and they
icem semi-transparent. Taffeta? and oth
er heavy silks have given place to the
softest of messallnes, the wash fabrics
have the finish and weave of silk voile
or marquisette, and of th making of
nets for wedding gowns thero is prac
tically no end.
In colors, there is no doubt that
purple and its paler tints, lavender,
violet, heliotropo and the more pinkish
orchid hues had died a violent death.
On the other hand, for going-away
frocks and silk house dresses, brown
and its closo color connections are in
great favor. The new" browns are
coppery in hue, the new tans are golden
in their high lights. The new blues
have a decided tendency toward green
ish lights, and the vry smartest "color
of all for the going-away frock is
sage or tea creen. Made up with plen
ty of white relief, sage or light tea
green is beeomng to anyone save the
hopelessly sallow woman.
Hurling the delicately tinted broad
cloths, very few plain cloths are seen.
For suitings, stripes, less pronounced
ami more shadowy than those worn
during the Winter, are much seen, and
broken checks will make stunning tai
lored suits for tall, slim brides. There
Is on foot a movement toward chocked
skirts and plain cutaway or Ixuls coats,
but this combination in only for the wo
man who can afford many suits.
The Paquin skirt has fallen very flat
and the pleated skirt remains in high
favor for tailored suits, while for house
gowns, party frocks, etc., the gored
6kirt of supple cloth laid In fine tucks
at the waist is particularly good both
as to style and for tho lingers of the
homo dressmaker.
Sleeves on dressy costumes are very
elaborate, split this way and that, and
filled In with ruffles of fine materials
or lace, but on tailored suits they are
Etiquette for the
GOOD form on the wedding day
starts many a couple smooth sailing
on the sea of matrimony. Family
dissensions, misunderstandings, and little
heart burnings which have their origin
at the very wedding feast often end in
serious trouble between the bride and
groom or their newly acquired relatives.
I am, therefore, taking up in order the
questions most commonly asked by my
correspondents.
Who pays for what?
Tho groom nays for the ring, the
minister's fee, and the carriage which
takes him and his best man to the church
and hi briilo and himself from the house
to the depot. He also pays for the bride's
boquct. That is all.
The bride, or more properly speaking
her '.parents, pay for everything else.
This means that If you are married in
a church you must pay for the music,
for opening the church, the decorations,
the organist's fee, etc. The bride orders
and pays for all the invitations, the
stamps, tho carriages for . herself, her
bridesmaids and ushers. She buys boquets
for her attendants, pays all catering bills,
and. in fact, everything not mentioned
under the liabilities of the groom. The
parents in planning the wedding should
bear this fact in mind, and give a wed
ding that is strictly within their income
and which will not be followed by a cloud
of bills to "pay which they may in time
be' forced to ask help from the new
son-in-law.
Invitations should be sent out two
weeks before the date of the wedding.
Tliey should bo engraved and mailed in
sealed envelopes with 2-cent stamps. The
plainest dead white paper Is used,
absolutely oid of any decorations save
the necessary lettering. An approved
form is:
Mr. and Mrs. Henry Lowell Smith
Bridal Gown In Mescaline, C'hlffol
nnd l,ocf.
Slim
severely plain, full length and of man
nish cut.
Some of the loveliest bridal gowns,
now under process of construction,
show comparatively simple trimmings,
such as innumerable ruchlngs of chif
fon, tulle or net on soft messaline or
satin-finished eurah,' forming a border
around the hem ef the skirt, on the
bretelles and sleeves, with a little fine
lace in the yoke. The girl who has
some real lace but only a little, need
nut despair. However trifling this may
be. It will give just the correct finish
ing touch to her bridal gown.
In planning frocks for bridesmaids,
it is .well to think of the lovely colored
muslins over -silk slips. These color;
Ings are absolutely perfect, and par
ticularly fetching for bridesmaids are
the pale blues and pinks and yellows,
embroidered In white or if the purse
be small, colored muslins merely
stamped in white give the same effect.
Three effective models are shown to
day. First the bridal drees, which Is
inexpensive yet charmnig, up-to-date,-and
within the financial means of the
average Easter bride. The model from
which It was sketched was developed
In messaline, chiffon and heavy allover
lace. The skirt and overblouse were
of the messaline, the yoke and sleeves
of shirred and ruffled chiffon. Tiny
ruffles of the chiffon finished the bot
tom of the skirt, and over this hung a
border' of heavy point de Venise. The
same laco formed tho revers and collar.
The same pattern could be developed
in crepe de chine, which, though not so
smart this season, is always depend
able, trimmed with allover lace and
ruchings of soft faille ribbon. And if
the bride-elect is of economical mind
and desires to use her wedding frock
later for dressy Summer evening wear,
she may develop the design in organdie
or very sheer batiste or linen, with
matching embroidery and fine Val. lace.
Such a gown will either dry clean or
launder, and will prove a most useful
addition to the Summer wardrobe.
It will require 15 yards of 27-inch
goods If made with a train of medium
length, and a train every bride should
wear. Tulle veiling ' and white glace
kid gloves, white slippers, preferably
satin embroidered with pearls, or with
pearl or lace or ribbon rosettes and
white silk stockings should accompany
this frock. No black slippers or ho
siery are ever worn by a white-robed
bride.
The bridesmaid gown pictured shows
the tunic or overskirt effect now used
by the tall girl. This is Becured en
tirely by the application of the trim
ming In deep points. Tho bodice fea
tures the newest stole effect, with
tassel finish. This frock was of pale
green mullc, trimmed with delicate
ecru laee which, by the way, formed
the very high collar and yoke, while
the girdle was of green silk, matchl.-g
exactly the tint of the mulle.
The going-away suit is in Delft blue
and white check, witli cuffs and collar
of blue velvet, outlined by a narrow
novelty braid showing blue, white and
silver. With the hflp of a tailor, to
finish off the coat, this effective but
very simple costume can be made at
home, but a tailor should stitch and
canvas the coat, ..Note that-only one
fold Is used on the skjrt, and that the
hat has a decided upward tilt on the
left side. These are features of Spring
styles. . MARY . DEAN.
Wedding Day
Request the . honor of your presence
at the marriage of their daughter
Mary Louise
to
Mr. Theodore Greene Lyons
on Wednesday afternoon, February the
tenth
At four o'clock
First Presbyterian Church
Holyoke.
If there is to be a reception at the
house after the church ceremony then
cards should be enclosed to that effect.
Reception
from half past four o'clock
19 Washington Road.
As soon as the invitations have been
sent out the prospective bride should lay
In a store of nice note paper on which
to acknowledge her gifts. She should
not write lengthq, newsy letters to each
friend who sends a gift, but a brief
cordial note of thanks. It Is well to have
two forms ready, one of a formal nature
for people whom you know slightly and
another more chatty for your Immediate
friends and relatives. Each day notes
should be sent out in thanks . for the
presents received, thus saving that rush
that is apt to come if it is put off from
time to time. Gifts are sent to the girl
while she is Miss Smith and should be
acknowledged under that name.
At a church wedding the groom with
his best man awaits the ' bride at the
altar. The bridal party on entering the
church Is made up as follows: The
ushers, two abreast come first, followed
by the bridesmaids, also two abreast,
then the maid of honor and finally the
bride on the arm of her father or some
male relative. On leaving the church
after the ceremony, the bride and groom
come first, the maid of honor on the arm
of the best man, then the bridesmaids
and lastly the ushers. The father joins
the family In leaving the church after
the bridal party. One side of the church
near the altar is 'reserved for the bride's
family and the other for friends and
family of the groom.
Guests follow the bridal party leisurely
to the house where the reception is held.
They greet the bride first, wishing her
much happiness. Do not congratulate a
bride, but tho groom. . The parents of
the bride stand .next to her and the
parents of the groom next to him. The
ushers escort the guests up to the bridal
party and the bridesmaids stand in line
to help receive them.
The bride introduces to her husband
any persons whom he does not know, and
he performs a like service for her.
If a buffet supper is served, guests
drop Into the dining-room as they would
at an afternoon tea. If a formal supper
is served t tables, the bride and groom
with their attendants are seated at one
table in the center of the room. The
guests are seated about them at small
tables.
When a bride and groom return from
their trip, friends and relatives call upon
them as soon as they are settled, or as
soon as the couple announce their first
day at home.
A word about the dressing of the
groom. At a day-time wedding the cor
rect dress ig frock coat and gray trousers,
with gray gloves and white puff tie. Some
men argue that frock coats are -not be
coming, therefore a cutaway or sack
suit is better. Such an argument Is to
bo utterly disregarded on this occasion.
In the evening, the correct dress is a full
dress suit, swallowtail, white vest, tie
and gloves.
PRUDENCE STAN DISH.
Some Simple Devices to Eradicate Freckles
IVHEN they want the operator.
W they want him quick. If. he
can't be reached it means a. disastrous
wreck and loss of life," observed an in
ventor. "But with the telemeter, any
point can be reached on a railway system.
If the operator cannot be got by wire,
then a signal can be thrown by the dis
patcher to hold up any train at any
point."
He was talking about a device which
is being experimented with on a. section
of the Boston & Maine Railroad. It had
been mentioned that in one year 6000 rear
and front-end railway collisions had oc
curred in the United States. The killed
and lnjuredi had .numbered In these disas
ters 11,000 passengers and 43,000 employes.
And the property loss had been $10,000,000.
Some of the greatest wrecks of America
have been due to the inability of a train
dispatcher to get the operator at a given
point. Perhaps he was absent somewhere
in the station yard on the company's
business. For a country operator is gen
erally station agent, freight agent and
baggagemaster combined. Or he may
have been asleep. At any rate he couldn't
be raised and the train dispatcher had to
stand helplessly by knowing that a train
laden with passengers was rushing to de
struction. That is where the telemeter would do
the trick, according to tho inventor. It
wouldn't make any difference should the
operator be absent from his post. If he
were within hearing he would be sum
moned by a gong. The same would wake
him were he asleep. Should he be out of
earshot and the train dispatcher did not
receive a response to his call, a signal
could be shown by the dispatcher at the
point received by the simple process of
pressing a key.
For instance, suppose a telemeter were
GOING AWAY OLTFIT IX BI.VK AND
attached to a telegraph line between Bos
ton and Portland,1 'Maine.' The""operator
would be able to call any station: without
disturbing any other station. This -.system
is so organized that it may be quickly ap
plied to a line without modification of the
existing apparatus. - '.'.''"'-
If a train were to pass a slven 'point
between these, two stations and it -was
necessary to catch that train at the next
station to prevent a collision with anoth
er that is where the telemeter would be
a godsend. Perhaps the operator at the
station the train dispatcher would try to
reach could not be got. No answer came
to his frantic call. " 1
If the train passed that point there must
be a wreck. After" the dispatcher had
tried to -get the operator and received no
answer to his signals, he would then press
his key to throw the semaphore and
the colored light signal would
bring the train to a standstill at the sta
tion. . -
What telegraphers say is "the beauty of
this contrivance is that the dispatcher
can call any station on .the system, and
over a single line, without disturbing in
the least the ordinary b.usitfess or work
ing of the telegraph. The telemeter is
simple in construction, is attachable to
the present telegraph wires, and requires
no additional wire whatever. Further
more, it docs not interfere with the usual
telegraph Instruments In actua.l opera
tion, and enables the dispatcher to place
himself Into immediate communication
with any operator on his line.
The telemeter seems to be human, only
more unerring. For after the dispatcher
has failed to raise the operator by sound
ing the call and then the gong, he sets
the signal for the train to stop. Imme
diately there comes to him a response
automatically, telling whether the signal
has acted or, not.
It. enables the dispatcher to " set and
.WHITE.
display any semaphore or light on his
line from his own office. And it returns
Information as to whether that particu
lar semaphore or light has been set. No
operator on the line can tamper with it
in any way, so that false signals cannot
be shown.
In their State street offices, one of the
Inventors showed its working to an au
dience of railway men last week. With
three tables holding each instrument, he
showed how one call was sent from one
station to another by the regular tele
graph key. A gong sounded at the table
called. That is the, signal for the opera
tor which will call him should he be
away from his sounder.
"Suppose he Isn't within-call," said the
Inventor.
Then he pressed the key again. At the
same table there was a whirr of the in
strument, a signal lamp showed its colors
and a semaphore was swupg. At the
same time his own sending instrument
registered that the signal had been
shown.
"That would stop the train, wherever
the operator might be. for it would be a
signal to the engineer a signal of dan
ger ordering him to stop," said the in
ventor. There is also, an attachment in con
nection with the instrument which is
calculated to prevent delays and block
ades 'of trains where freights In isolated
sidetracks cannot be reached with orders.
For these attachments, placed in small
boxes at every siding, can be used by
the conductors of such trains to report
their whereabouts. By a code of signals
they can bo notified whether, to stop or
proceed. The conductors do not require
to know telegraphy. They have only to
ring in the simplest signals.
In a favorable wind a fox can scent a
ma a one-quarter of a mile away.
OW often a bride ruins the picture
presented by her well-gowned party
at the altar by her own awkward
position! Perhaps, she does not ' stand
erect, but allows her body to curve like
a half-hoop released from the staples
around a barrel.
Perhaps she stands with her abdomen
out and her chest sunken ap if she were
actually tilting backward; or with one
foot thrust forward, and one shoulder
lower than the other. And the poor
dressmaker who turned out that lovely
white gown is severely criticised for its
poor fit!
The post-Lenten bride has still time to
make her figure worthy of the most ex
quisite gown ever made by a dressmaker.
If sho will only give half an hour daily
to improving her figure or in reforming
her habit of walking and standing, she
will see results before the Easter lilies
nod on the wedding altar.
First "Do you know how to stand?"
Employ first the test of the old Italian
woman whom you see carrying on her
head a great bundle of pants and coats
or even scantlings from buildings that
are being demolished.. Note that this
woman has a perfectly straight line
down tho front. Her head Is absolutely
In line with the front of her body the
better to balance tho bundle. Her chin' is
in, her chest is thrown forward, but her
stomach is drawn in and her shoulders
are absolutely straight and level.
See whether you can do the same. Se
lect several monthly ciagazines and tie
them together. Use these as a weight on
your head. Stand motionless before the
mirror, your anna hanging relaxed at
either side. Then just let one shoulder
droop, or your chest sink while the abdo
men protrudes, and see what will happen.
The parcel of magazines will tumble to
the floor. .
Stand erect before the mirror for five
minutes, every two hours during tho day,
and in connection take a few deep breath
ing exercises'. In, this absolutely correct
position, inhale steadily and -deeply
through your nose, with the lips closed
while you count seven mentally and de
liberately. This should expand tho chest
further and aLso inflate or raise the dia
phragm, but it should not knock the
magazines oft your head. If It does, you
have changed the position of some part
of your body and fallen back into your
bad habits. Exhale through the mouth
while counting five.
Occasionally practice walking with a
load on your head, or with a flower or
rosette laid on the upper curved part of
the chest and bust. Do not look down at
tho flower' or rosette, but walk with the
sense that-you must not allow it to fall
to the floor.
Another exercise very useful in secur
H
Essentials for Wedding Feast
THE three essentials for a wedding
breakfast or supper are tho coffee,
the salad and the cake. Have what
hot dish you will, or such sandwiches as
your fancy may indicate or any number
hors d'euvres, but the staples remain rich,
hot, amber-colored coffee, a salad with
considerable body such as chicken or lob
ster, made with the best of mayonnaise
dressing, and the good old-fashioned wed
ding cake, rich with fruit, which crum
bles at the touch of the knife, and the
delicate white bride's cake. Trust the
preparation of these to no inexperienced
hand, but put into them the best energies
at your command.
Old-Fnohluneil Wcddluic C'akei Fruit
for this should be prepared in advance as
follows: Six cups of currants, washed,
dried and picked. Three cups of raisins;
three cups of citron cut In fine strips,
one-half cup of candied lemon peel, two
cups of almonds, blanched and cut In
shreds. In a warm bowl mix four cups
of butter and four cups of sugar, granu
lated or confectioner's, beat these to
gether until very light. Break iO eggs
into another bowl, but do not beat them.
Cover a waiter with a big sheet of paper;
sift four pints of flour over this; add the
fruit and the following spices: Two tea
spoons "each of nutmeg, mace and cinna
mon, one tablespoon each of cloves and
allspice. Mix these together and stand
aside ready for use. Have ready in a
little pitcher half pint of best brandy.
Select a deep cake tin and grease wkii
butter, line it inside with white paper and
on the outside and bottom four or five
thicknesses of very coarse wrapping pa
per, which you must tie on. Have your
oven hot and the fire banked so It will not
burn out quickly. Now beat the butter
and sugar once more, add the eggs two at
a time, beating the mixture with each ad
dition. When this is done, turn in the
flour arid fruit with brandy. Mix thor
oughly, pour Into the cake tin, cover with
several thicknesses "of brown paper and
tjake eight hours in a steady oven. Ice
with thin coating made with the white
of eggs, a few drops of cold water and
confectioner's sugar.
White Bride's Cake: Take the whites
of eight 'eggs and beat very stiff, one
pound of sugar, one of flour, one
cup of sweet milk, one-Ifalf pound or but
ter (scant), half teaspoon of soda, two
teaspoons of cream tartar. Cream the
butter and sugar and add slowly the milk
and soda, dissolving the soda in tepid
water. Sift the cream of tartar with the
flour and add the flour alternately
with" the white of the eggs. Flavor with
vanilla or almond and bake in a square
loaf.
Muyonnnle Dressing: The secret of
a successful mayonnaise dressing is large
ly the temperature of the ingredients and
the utensils used in mixing them. The
hard boiled eggs should be cooked -early in
the day and put in the ice box to chill,
the oil and the raw eggs should be kept
dn the refrigerator for at least 24 hours
before using. The bowl in which you
mix the dressing, the fork you use should
likewise be ice-cold.
Take the yolk of an egg and drop into
a bowl and beat with a fork until per
fectly blended, then add drop by drop (do
not make the mistake of letting It run
in a tiny stream), add one, pint of the best
olive oil. Into another bowl put the
yolks of the two hard boiled eggs and rub
into them a dash of cayenne pepper and
half a teaspoon of salt. Now a very
little at a. time add the beaten oil and
yolk from the other bowl, beating con
tinually with a fork. Add to this the
chopped whites of the eggs and the juice
of half a lemon or a few drops of vinegar.
Mix well and lastly add the well-beaten
white of the uncooked egg. This makes
a delicious dressing if directions are fol
lowed, mixing continually, with cold in
gredients and utensils.
ieir Vnftm Five gallons of coffee
are sufficient for 10U wedding guests. Buy
tho best quality of Mocha and Java, and
have it pulverized. Two and a half
pounds will insure' coffee of reasonab.e
strength. If you want black coffee, or
der three pounds. Place the pulverized
coffee in bags of closely woven cheese
cloth, tightly sewn, so that no coiiae can
ing a good carriage is to stand with the
chin sharply uplifted, so that the head is
thrown back a trifle. This- can bo exag
gerated when practicing in your rooju.
The tendency of that uplifted chin will
be to bring up your chest and throw back
your shoulders, not aggressively, but
evenly. Moreover, if your tendency is
toward a double chin, this exercise will
do much to counteract that unfortunate
tendency.
If the bust is fiat and shapeless, as
often happens in the girl of sunken chest
and drooping, shoulders, try two very
fimple remedies. First, night and morn
ing, bathe the upper part of your body
with hot and cold water alternately. Do
not use a sponge or wash rag, but lift
the water In a cup and dash' it against
the breasts. Then at night massage the
breasts with an upward and outward
movement, lifting them away from the
walls of the chest. For this, moisten the
hands with olive oil. I will also be glad
to send upon receipt 'of self-addressed en
velope the' formula of xa remedy to be
taken Internally which will strengthen
the tissues of the bust. .
One thing more, the wedding gown this
year must make, the girl look talh and
slender, and there must be absolutely no
sign of curving hips. Tills Is sad news
to the stout girl who has been, so busy
hemming and embroidering linen' and
sewing on lace medallions that she has
had no' real 'exercise for weeks and. ha
acquired more pronounced hips than ever.
But let her get busy at once with reduc
tion exercises, 15 mintues three times a
day.
First, stand erect, as described in exer
cises given abovo for the slouehy girl.
Then raipc your arms above your shoul
ders, the width of the chest apart, with
the palms forward. Count seven, inhal
ing through the nose, and bend toward;
slowly with a sweeping, birdlikc motion,
bending at the waist but keeping tho
knees stiff, until tho finger tip-" touch
the floor. Then, exhaling through the
mouth, swing back to tho first position.
Repeat this three times the first day,
four the second, and so on until you can
tako the exercise 20 or 30 times without
feeling any strain.
Another simple but useful exercise for
reducing the hips is to lie on the floor,
head, spinal column and heels touching
the carpet, arms relaxed at the sides.
Raise the right leg until it forms a right
angle with the trunk. Then the left,
and finally alternate the right and left.
When you have done this, say a dozen
times, roll over on the right side. Place
your left hand on your hip, the right,
palm down, on tho floor. Now gradually
raise the body away from the floor until
it is supported entirely by the right arm
and the right foot. Repeat this exercise
three times, then roll over and reverse,
using the left hand and foot for support.
KATH BRINK MORTON.
escape. These bags should be cbout five
or s;x inches square.
There, are two methods of making t'.ie
coffee with the bags. Either bring your
water to a boil and put the bags into the
boiling water, to let the coffee steep on
the back of the stove, as you would tea.
or place the bags of coffee into the cold
water, aljow it to come to a boil very
slowly, then boil briskly for three or lour
minutes and set back to steep and keep
hot. Of course, if you can hire a huge
French percolator such as Is used by
caterers! and hotel chefs, you will not
need the bags.
Double Fudge a New
Confection
WHO remarked that the last word
has been said on the fudge ques
tion? There is something new even of
the fudge variety. At least, that is
what the guests at an Informal party
where "double" fudge was passed
thought. , ' "
To make it, boil two cupfuls of gran
ulated sugar, half a cupful of rich milk,
two squares of chocolate and a' tea
spoonful of butter until it forms a soft
ball when dropped Into cold water,
Heat until grained, and turn into a
shallow pan. Then boil two cupfuls of
brown sugar and a cupful of milk until
at the soft ball stage; add a teaspoon
ful of butter, a cupful of nut meats
and a teaspoonful of vanilla; beat' until
creamy, and turn over the other fudge.
When cool, mark off Into squares.'
Marslimallow fudge, which has been
the Waterloo of many good candy
makers, is delicious If the marshmal
lows get melted enough before the
fudge hardens. This is the way they
make it at Wellesley: A pound- (two
cupfuls) of granulated sugar and a
cupful of rich milk are heated together,
two squares of chocolate are stirred in,
and the mixture boiled until It is waxy,
when rolled between the fingers. Just
before the last stage is reached a
small piece of butter is added and half
a pound of marshmallows are stirred
in, little by little, crushing and beating
each as it goes In. The syrup is then
turned Into a buttered shallow pan, and
when it begins to harden is cut into
squares. ,
Bridrmald's Frock In I'ale Green
Mulle.