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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 9, 1908)
THE SUA" DA Y OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 9, 1908. fill 11 KKE5FQMREHCE, TXQL f R5fflQH5 & PEAUTT 1 CHARMING GOWNS FOR THE MID-WINTER DANCES THE dancing season Is at its height, but many a pretty dancing frock has outlived its usefulness. Some thing new must be bought and befrllled and belaced, and that right quickly, for If ever dances come thick and fast, it is just before the pall of Lent is low ered. It seldom pays to make over a dancing frock, for tlio real article is diaphanous nd perishable from the very beginning, so that directly attempts are made to re furbish and renew it, the old part gives way under pressure of the new. Where fore let us hie to the counters where new goods are displayed and stock-taking prices prevail. First, in planning the new dancing frock, bear in 'mind that the skirt must bo full and Huffy, but short. The trained and stately ball dress is not for her who would find delighted and sympathetic partners. For the debutante, the skirt should clear the front. The chaperon, the middle-aged matron and the young dancing matron may wear a train, but It should be short, and if she dances at all, she must practice diligently the grace ful art of carrying her train with her right hand. It must be beyond the touch of other dancers as well as herself and her partner, and yet not high enough to mako an unseemly display of silk hosiery. The girl who Is not practiced in wearing and carrying a train should eschew them at the dance. Now, with a comparatively short skirt, a low neck and mere puffs of sleeves, the amount of material required is not for midable. Crepe de chine, rtarqulsette or silk having plenty of body will require only fourteen yards in the regulation silk width of 20 inches or so. Softer materi als, such as chiffon or net, though much wider, will use up at least 12 yards for the, woman of average height. And nearly every party fabric requires a silk slip beneath. The ready-made silk slips in all deli cate colors, as well" as white, "can now be purchased as low as J3, with narrow ruffles on the skirts, puffed sleeves mid square necks edged with lace. You can scarcely make them at home cheaper, unless you pick up a rare bargain in silk. The softest and most effective un clerslips are made from Japanese or habitue, not taffeta silk. The new wash materials make lovely party frocks, and have a double value Just now, as. with care, they can be used for early Summer wear after doing duty for late dances. One design shown today was developed from the new sheer white muslin with colored border. The colored embroidery is used at the foot of the skirt and In the fitted bertha. The five gored skirt is in reality a deep flounce with very narrow fiounclngs of German Val. lace beneath. The fine dots in the embroidery are done in white floss, the flowers and -rushes in corn-yellow. The top of the skirt is adjusted to the figure in fine hand-run tucks. The bodice is ex tremely simple, being shirred into the belt and around the top of the round neck. Its sole decoration Is the fitted bertha, in which the embroidery out lined by lace ruchlngs Is used. The glr-r die and twisted ribbons for the elbow sleeves are of Vorn-colored faille. The top of the bertha may be finished with a flat bias fold of corn-colored faille, as shown in the illustration, or, for the thin girl, ruchlngs of soft lace with tiny yel low chiffon flowers "would be .most effec tive. The same design could be developed admirably in one of the inexpensive Some Dainty Trifles for the Dancing Girl TtF.SSIXG the neck is always a problem with the dance-loving girl, whatever her physique. Of course the plump girl has rather the best of it In the game of wearing de colletto owns, but Dame Fashion is really very kind to the girl with the scrawny neck this season. Time was when this girl felt she cnuld not wear a low-cut gown on ac count of the bones Jn her throat, or because her neck was so long that the decollete bodice' was must unbecoming ' 1o her. Today the thin girl has her gowns cut quite as low as these of her stout sister, then plans a means of hiding- the prominent bones. ; The lavalier, or fancy necklace, is perhaps the most popular. To success fully hide the bones In the neck, these necklaces should fit rather tightly about the throat. If the one you have is too larsc and drops down too low, take it to any small jeweler your town affords and he can shorten it an inch. The girl whose throat is very high and who has a. long chin should wear a dog collar in any of the scml-precious stones with her evening gowns. Imi tation coral dog collars are exceed inaly becoming to the dark girl, and look well with almost any evening colors ex cept reds and greens. Imitation pearl and rliiiiestones are also made up in this piece of Jewelry, and are not very ex pensive. If your jewel box does not offer such a trinket, then select a piece of black velvet about an inch in width and tie about your neck. This is a very becom ing fashion, and one greatly used since Hie introduction of the Dutch neck gowns. There are so very few exceptions to the rule for wearing white gloves to a dance that I might say that they do not ex ist. Elderly women who are dressed in black nnd do not expect to dance might wear black gloves. Girls in mourning wear them with all black gowns, but the girl who is in mourning has no place at a dance.. If her spirits are gay enough to allow her to go to a dance, then let her wear all white. The newest fashions in fans "are merely ii repetition of those during the past two years. They arc medium in size and most of them spangled on gauze or ivory, pearl or bone sticks. An effort was made to in troduce feather fans again. But they were too expensive and Noo heavy to be of general use. They aro seen only on rare occasions in the hands of dowagers. The young girl who goes to a dance and ex pects to whirl around the room most of the evening will do well to buy an Inex pensive Japanese fan in pale colorings. Wich a fan will bo of real benefit to hen, while tho fancy spangled gauze affair is really more ornamental than practical. A dainty scarf is almost a necessity nt a dance. It is needed throughout the evening when a girl rests after a heated waltz. It Is well to take a look over your grandmother's and your mother's old finery, and see If you can not resurrect an old lace scarf. Those who succeed will be doubly fortunate, for old laces are worth their weight in gold this season, ns is any piece of antique jewelry. Not long ago article was devoted exclu MI LI.E, AVITH RIBBON AXD LACE Rl'CHIKG. ringed or dotted nets at a dollar a yard, I inset with heavy lace around the foot of I sively to- such scarfs, but I might re peat that those made of dotted net, chif fon and lace are most suitable for a light throw-over at a dance. There Is no place of amusement where your feet are more exposed to view and criticism than at a dance, and the girls who think that an old pair of comfort able slippers are the proper thing to wear will be very conspicuous. Black slippers and stockings are worn with an all black gown only. White kid slip pers with tiny bows or rosettes of satin with rhinestone buckles, with white silk or lisle stockings, are worn with all light colored gowns, while bronze slippers and stockings to-match exactly are worn with gowns of medium coloring. Let me also suggest that while you are looking for the old lace scarf, keep your eye open for any piece of Jewelry that has been put away long ago and discard ed as being "too old-fashioned." Dan gling ear-rings have returned, and to a certain type of girl they are most be coming. Old-fashioned brooches of coral, cameos and jade are today the most ap Personal Daintiness for Dancers IN MAKING the toilet for a dance, the inexperienced girl must figure on the comparative violence of the exercise in prospect, the heat of the room, and the heavy perfumes used by 1he woman unversed in modern secrets of the toilet. The most charming girls at up-to-date dances are those who radiate an atmos phere of physical freshness and crisp ness. This "bars most emphatically the use of heavy odors like heliotrope, trefle, peau d'Espagne, or their equivalents in sachet powders. Tho truly dainty girl depends on neith er extracts nor sachets to give her that indescribable air of sweetness and fresh ness always . associated with the de butante, but upon her aromatic baths and tho daily care of her clothing. She keeps all her raiment in drawers and boxes thickly scattered not with a heavy sachet powder, but with orris root, lightly scented with lilac or violet sachet, and precious little of either, for It is the orris root odor which is most delicate and elusive. A sheet of cotton wadding powdered with orris root and the preferred delicate sachet may be laid In the bottom of each drawer or box, and it must be renewed at frequent Inter vals. If annoyed by an oily skin, the dainty girl always adds a dash of violet toilet ammonia to her bath. And if to an oil skin she adds the general appearance of exhaustion or anemia, she adds the fol lowing invigorating and cleansing mix ture to the warm water tub: Dissolve 40 grammes of gelatine In a quart of boiling water. Stir In BO grammes of sulphante of potassium and 100 grammes of subcarbonate of soda. She should lie in the hot tub to which this mixture has been added for at least ten minutes. Some girls do not . perspire under or dinary conditions, but after dancing, suf fer much annoyance from a prickling skin and a distinct odor of perspiration. Such girls should bathe in warm water to which the following aromatic salts have EVENING COAT the skirt and on the bertha. Point de I Venise and Imitation Irish make excel- proved and popular type of jewelry. Up-to-date jewelers are turning out copies of these antiques In great quantities, but none of the modern workmanship can compare with that of fifty years, ago, ahd the young girl who can display some genuine pieces of antique jewelry Is for tunate indeed. I saw a girl at the opera the other night dressed in a simple pink chiffon gown, almost void of trimming. She wore dangling ear-rings of plain gold drops, and about her neck was strung cn a narrow piece of black velvet ribbon a huge gold locket. It bore the ear marks of a fashion In Jewelry seen a half century ago. The girl who wore these bits of antique finery showed that her people bad always had money and standing, and they added so much to her simple costume and general style that several women in my vicinity spoke of it. been added: Dried thyme, 200 grammes; dried rosemary, 200 grammes; dried mal lows, 200 grammes; dried linden, 200 grammes; rose-petals, 200 grammes; bi carbonate of soda, 250 grammes. Steep the herbs in two gallons of boiling water for half an hour. Pour off, straining through a hair sieve or cloth, and dis solve the soda in the Infusion. Add to a bath as hot a you can stand it. This aromatic mixture leaves the skin delight fully smooth and refreshed, and the odor, faint but delightful, clings to the person for hours. In passing, it may Ibe remarked that the up-to-date girl has taken up her great-grandmother's fad of raising fine herbs and drying rose leaves for toilet articles and scenting her lingeries. Rose petals may be gathered and dried through out the Summer, and stored In huge Jars for future use, a dainty custom which any girl can follow at small cost. When the tissues are relaxed from careless washing or the skin on shoulders and arms Is flabby and coarse, try this vinegar tonic in your bath: Oil of ber gamot, 12 grammes; oil of cltion, 10 grammes; tincture of benzoin, 12 grammes; extract of lavender, 30 grammes; pure white vinegar, 1 pints. Mix and let the. Infusion stand ten days. Dilute with four times the quantity of freshly boiled, distilled or rose water. Warm as much as you need to fill your basln and sponge the face and . body freely, allowing the water to trickle Into a foot bath, coarse towel or bath mat. Use antiseptic rauze or old soft linen for sponging; never a sponge, which holds and breeds germs. For the girl who is annoyed by exces sive perspiration when dancing, the fol lowing powder, rubbed well over the body before dressing, may prove helpful: Fa rina starch, 0 grammes; powdered tal cum. 20 grammes; powdered lycopodium, 20 grammes; salol or boric acid, 10 gramme; essence of violet,' 20 grammes. Sift through bolting cloth. Heavy powdering of the arms is a trick jw rSr$ 1 r&i: COMBINING GRACE AXD ECONOMY. lent insets, and may be outlined with i frilling of French or German Val. Twelve which every girl should avoid. This leaves Its trail on the arm of every part ner. If the arms are stained, try lemon juice on the disfiguring spots. If any whitener Is to be used at all. use one with a liquid founuation, as follows: Pure oxide of zinc, 1 ounce; glycerine, 1 dram; rosewater, 4 ounces; essence of rose, 15 drops. Sift the zinc, dissolving It in just enough of the rosewater to cover it, then add the glycerine, next the remainder of the rosewater. Shake well and apply with antiseptic gauze, rub until thoroughly dried into the pores or it will be streaked and leave as many tell-tale marks as the dry powder. Every girl should carry to the dance a tiny vanity box or powder rag in a tiny silk bag. which she can tuck into the ruffles of her bodice. A touch of good face powder will reduce the shine on the nose and forehead, and the faint per fume of an imported or home-made pow der will be refreshing, but the promis cuous use of a powder puff provided in the public or private dressing-room, Is to be decried in this age of personal dainti ness. Chat About Women. Alnslee's Magazine says that the American girl is brought up to think more of herself than of marriage, and that If she feels like It she will confer herself upon some man; the French girl, on tho contrary, has been taught to think more of marriage than of her self. In France- the suitor Is looked upon as a veritable Lohengrin, the knight who has come to free the sleep ing beauty. Possessing: in her. own right a for tune of $2,000,000. Miss Nellie Hunting ton, of Cleveland. Ohio, daughter of a late Standard Oil magnate, has for saken society and is devoting her time to the teaching of classes of girls in a social settlement at Cleveland, says Leslie's Weekly. Miss Huntington has lately been instructing her pupils how to make the most of life in a flat. One of the present fads of New York women Is to have "Dorothy" or Shaker cloaks, made by the sisters at their community at East Canterbury, N. H. These, cloaks are said to be made after the same pattern as the cloaks worn by the Shakers who came from Eng land in 1774. Some 10 years ago a fashionable woman took the notion of wearing a Shaker cloak .for an opera wrap. The cloaks aro of broadcloth and for the use of "the world's people" they are lined with blu.e mauve and pink satins. A' woman physician is spending the Winter at Advent Bay, Spitzenbergen, where two companies decided to work the rich coal mines and advertised for two doctors to go with the expedition. A husband and wife. Dr. E. Klinck and Dr. Julia Bang-Klinck, applied for the posi tions, and got them. Dr. Julia is a grad uate of Christianla University. She came to America as assistant to Drs. Christen sen and Gunderscn, La Crosse. Wis. She spent about a year there, then went to Chicago, where she worked in clinics and hospitals, and made many friends. She returned to Norway, and married Dr. E. Klinck. They took their wedding trip to Spitzbergen, and are spending their honeymoon at Advent Bay, on the Arctic Ocean. The colony consists of about a hundred persons, including seven women. THE NEWEST COMBINATION OP WHITE MCSLIN WITH COLORED EMBROIDERY. yards of 44-inch net or mulle will be i required for this design. Et iquette: THE mother of dance-loving sons and daughters, the matron whose "set" has not yet outgrown the Joys of dancing, and the bride who has no end of social obligations to pay, will agree on the statement that the dance Is the thing. No form of entertainment Is so generally satisfactory and so simply managed as the informal dance. For that matter, a formal dance, with perhaps a cotillion at the close, can be better man aged by the average hostess than an elaborate dinner or card party. First and most Important Is room to turn in, -and a good floor to dance upon The hostess must consider the rival claims of her home and a room rented outside. In the smaller cities It is often possible to get at a reasonable figure the use of a hotel dining-room, or parlor, which is more pleasant than a lodge room or public hall. If the house of the hostess is small, or her floors uneven, she should immediately cast about for more commodious quarters or forever abandon the idea of a dance. The hotel room or lodge hall docs not premippose elaborate decorations. A few palms and potted plants to screen the musicians, and form -a few cosy corners, will be sufficient. For a valentine dance, innumerable crimson hearts cut from cardboard or crepe paper will furnish all the decorations neediil. The same re freshments that would be offered in your home will suffice for the dance outside. The sole advantage of going away from home is the room, and the fortuitous fact that the price paid for the use of the room Includes cleaning the day after, which is an item in the private house. Invitations should be sent out about two weeks in advance. If the dance is to be a large one, the invitations should be engraved on plain brlstol board. If a small dance is to be given, the Invitations may be written. The letters "R. S. V. P." are seldom used, a hostess taking it for granted that her guests have sufficient knowl edge of the proper thing to answer within a few days. A very simple and approved form used In inviting guests to a dance is along the following lines: Mrs. Howard Brown Miss Brown At Home Wednesday evening, February tenth. 274 St. Mark's Place. DANCING. Or the card may read less formally: Mr. and Mrs. HowaTd Brown Request the pleasure of your company Tuesday evening, February tho third at nine o'clock. 274. St. Mark's Place. DANCING. " In figuring on the music, for a small dance -a piano often suffices, but of course" the addition of a guitar or man dolin, or one violin, greatly Increases the inspiration and gives a much bet ter effect In a crowded room. Dance programmes are still in vogue for large dances. At small house entertainments, where most of the guests are old friends, they are not used. There are times, however, when the hostess has a number of guests many of whom do not know each other, and then dance cards are a great help. Once a man has put his name on a card engaging a dance, he must keep The second model shows a charming design for either mulle. net or chiffon Good Form his word and fulfill that engagement, while if he has not so pledged himself he Is apt to argue. "Oh, I don't know that girl I'm off for the smoking room for this number." Two dressing-rooms must be offered the guests, one for the men and one for the women. The men can take care of themselves, as a rule, but in the room where the women go there should be a maid ready to assist them In remov ing their wraps, putting' on slippers, etc. The hostess should be dressed in ample time, and be standing in the doorway of the parlor ready to receive her guests when they arrive. She should see that all of her guests are Introduced, asking some of the young men In the room to help her out in this task, and throughout the evening she should watch all of her guests seeing that no one is "wall flowered." A hostess Is at liberty to ask any young man to dance with any woman who is sitting without an attendant. Owing to the fact that all the room available is necessary for dancing, a buffet supjjor is generally served for such an occasion. In a convenient cor ner a large bowl of punch should 'be found throughout' the evening. The bowl should be placed on a substan tial table covered with a plain white cloth, and there should be plenty of glasses. The bowl should be filled from time to time during the evening. Refreshments Golden I'um-ht Take one large fresh pineapple, or a quart can of the fruit. Cut into very email and thin slices. Take three large grape fruit, remove the bitter skin and cut the fruit Into small pieces. Take two pounds of white grapes and cut In half, remov ing the seeds. Mix all this fruit to gether. Put into a saucepan a cup of rum, and a cup of sugar, preferably brown. Let this boil and throw over the fruit. Allow it to cool. Put a large block of ice in punch bowl, throw in the fruit, and add to it one quart of the fruit. Allow it to cool." Put a large Sauterne, a bottle of soda, and a few slices of cucumber peel. Fruit Pancni Prepare a pineapple and slice very thin, also slice five oranges and five lemons.- Place layer of pineapple in bottom of punch bowl, cover with brown sugar, then a layer of oranges covered with sugar, then layer of lemons also well sprinkled with, sugar. On top of this put sev eral slices of cucumber peel. Pour over this sufficient grape juice or claret to fill the bowl over half full. Put in the bowl a large piece of ice. and just before it Is served ad J a largj bottle of eoda to every two quarts of claret or grape juice. Gernldine Panchi Place a half cup of plump raisins in a quart of water. Put over slow fire and let them boil for 20 minutes. Strain and add to the liquor two cups of sugar and a large stick of cinnamon and the gratedrlnd of a lemon. Boil tlies'e Ingredients for about five minutes. Remove from the fire and add two cups of orange juice and one cup ol lemon juice. Strain cloth, to be trimmed with seif-rurhlnss or ribbon. rhis, too, Is a five-gored model, than which there is . no bettor dancing skirt. The tucks at the waist are adjusted to give a panel effect in the front and graceful fulness in the back. The model from which this illustration was taken was made in a dotted mulle of pale coffee tint, trimmed wjth lace and ribbon of precisely the same tone and a girdle of a slightly deeper shade. The lace had been dyed to match the fabric. and tlio whole effect was most soft nnd becoming to a clear-skinned brunette. Double rows of the insertion were set in to the sleeves, bodice and skirt, while below the Insertion on the skirt were four ruchings of the ribbon, which also outlined the bertha in double rows. The same design could be carried out In net with ruclilng3 of tho same fabric or in German Val. lace, which s less expen sive and far more effective on net than the finer French Val. A lovely color combination shown in stamped muslin of sheer quality was a border, bertha and puffed sleeves show ing shadowy yellow roses on a white ground, with trimmings of yellow ribbon picked out with tiny bows of black vel vet" and gold buckles. A young girl who wanted a new danc ing frock, but counted also on the ap proach of warm weather, hunted the shops over for remnants in Swiss em broidery. She found some deep, pointed medallions, which she set into her skirt, points up, like a border, starting at the hem. These she outlined with pleated Val. lace. Smaller pointed medallions were used to point downward from the round neck of the blouse, and the lovely combination of plain and embroidered Swiss was worn over a pink slip, with a soft pink sash. The latter had long ends and a choux at the waist line, with tiny moss rosebuds caught in the heart of each chou and In knots near the ends of the sash. With this she wore white gloves, pink tulle twisted and roped through her blonde hair,' with a rose over the left ear. The wrap to be worn with a party dress is most important. It should be large enough to envelope the thinly dressed figure and not snug enough to crush perishable ruffles. A godd design Is shown, one which any dressmaker at home could evolve from broadcloth. . trimmed with novelty or soutache braid or bias bands of silk. It has the sugges tion of kimono lines, without too pro nounced a' Japanese effect. The openings in the skirt of the coat are just what a girl with a dainty frock likes. She can easily hold up her dancing skirts and keep them free from soil on street or car. Egyptian Designs on China. The very latest design in chinawaro imported from Florence Is the Egyptian, and a chop set so decorated has been much admired. There were 13 pieces, one large round dish and 32 plates to match. The edges were enameled in a red and white block design, picked out with gold, and the lotus flower, conventionalized, was arranged to look like a crest. It was exceedingly handsome and de cidedly uncommon. . - . The same house was showing an ex ceedingly beautiful dinner service In the Egyptian colorings and design. Small Sylvl Did you ask papa why the pen is said to be mightier than tho sword? Little Gregory Yes. He said it was be cause a man couldn't sign checks with a sword. at the Dance the glasses washed and replaced at frequent intervals. The supper Itself Is served about 11 or 12 o'clock, and although the gentle men aid in serving the ladies In the party, there should be a couple of maids to serve anything necessary from the pantry, to carry off the soiled dishes, etc. A buffet supper should consist of salads, several kinds of sandwiches, Ices, cakes and coffee. The addition of one hot dish, such as creamed oysters, Is desirable, but not at all necessary. The men and women who have been invited to a dance should reply as soon as possible, giving their hostess time to Invito others In their place should It be necessary. There is really no fixed hour for arriving at a dance, but ordinarily 9 or 9:30 Is a suitable hour. Guests should remove their wraps in the room assigned for that purpose, and should then descend and greet their hostess at once. Young men are very prone to sit upstairs and smoke awhile, then' drift down stairs and chat with this girl and then another, anil finally wander over to the hostess. Let me say that such conduct is the height of ill manners. for the Dance again, and put on Ice to cool. When ready to serve, add one quart of ice cold claret. Ice Creami A very good foundation for all ice creams is as follows: Scald one pint of rich milk, and add to it one cup of sugar to which has been added two tablespoons of flour, pinch of salt and two well-beaten eggs. Stir this over a slow fire in double holier until smooth and thick, letting it cook about 20 minutes. Strain and let . it cool. Add one pint of rich cream and flavoring desired, then freeze. To this recipe may be added any desired fla voring, sliced bananas, a cup of pre served strawberries pressed through a fine sieve, macaroons ground very fine with almond flavoring, and 6imllar del icacies. C'hocolnle lee Crenm: Three pints of rich milk, two cups of sugar, four well beaten eggs, and one tablespoon of best vanilla extract. Mix these well together, then add six ounces of choco late which lias been melted in enough milk to make a' smooth paste. Place on fire and stir until It thickens. Strain this custard through fine strainer, when cold place In freezer. When nearly frozen stir in lightly one pint of rich cream that ha3 been whipped stiff and one tablespoon of vanilla ex tract, then finish freezing. I'lnk Mounxei Stir two cups of grape Juice into a quart of thick cream. Add to this two tablespoons of lemon juice and powdered sugar enough to sweet en. Whip this all until very thick, then pour Into mold, pack in ice and let it freeze for three hours. Garnish on the plates, when served, with a. few nuts.
