The Sunday Oregonian., February 09, 1908, SECTION THREE, Page 4, Image 26

THE SUNDAY- OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND. FEBKUARf 9, .1908.
PORTLAND MERCHANTS DISPLAY SPRING STYLES
NEW DESIGNS IN SUITS AND GOWNS FOR POST-LENTEN DAYS ARE STRICTLY, TAILORED
IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE NEWEST IN
WEARING APPAREL VISIT THIS STORE
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DVAXCE Spring styles" is the
heading under -which half a
dozen ,of the leading local
merchants are showing as 'many 1 widely
differing- allotments of entirely new de
signs in breezy Spring suits-and gowns.
Out of the wide variety of offerings, only
a few will appeal effectively to the gen
eral feminine fancy, and not until this
process of natural selection is over, will
the all-important feminine question,
"what to wear," be definitely, decided.
But through all the local offerings,' from
the simplest little walking costume to
the more elaborate costumes, there Is
one thing in common, which ' gives the
keynote to all that will be smart and
modish when Ienten day are over and
this interesting point is covered in the
two eloquent little words, "strictly tai
lored.'" How the slender woman, with her long
lines and graceful curves, will rejoice,
and what satisfaction the advance dis
plays will bring to the heart of her at
tractive sister of the well-rounded, svelte
figure! On the other hand, What a wail
of despair will go up from the short,
dumpy contingent, which must face anew
the problem of the lost waist line and
struggle against marked resemblance to
the proverbial featherbed tied about the
middle with a string!
Another universal feature of the new
gowns quite as delightful to the slen
der and even more disastrous to the
stout is the "kimono" sleeve, which
bobs up in a stylo of cut more exag
gerated than ever. In picture No. 1, in
the accompanying illustration, the exag
gerated under-arm line of the new sleeve
is effectively shown. The sleeve-piece
runs into- the body of the coat only a
couple of inches above the waist line,
and in such a manner as to leave a
clearly defined semi-circular line -curving
In at the waist and out again at the hips.
This semi-circular effect under the arm
Is noticeable in nearly all the gowns In
the advance stock. Variety of cut and
finish are shown in the shoulder and
upper arm portions. One of the novel ef
fects is .shown in the sleeve of No. 5.
which shows strips of silk braid revealed
through an inverted pleat, and No. 4
gives still another version, large and al
most shapeless, -yet natty and attractive
in the striped and checked materials.
One of the smartest and most pro
nouncedly new things in Spring- styles
Is shown in No. 3. The material is
of light pray, the design of tiny
checks. The "strictly tailored" idea
is carried out in the minutest detail of
this costume, and is emphasized by
stitched straps and bands cut on the
bias. Cloth-coverjd buttons down the
front and as a' finishing feature, with
a mannish effect throughout, mark
this as the extreme thing in what will
be ultra fashionable for street wear.
"Copenhaeen blue" will vie with
gray and light brown mixed tones for
popularity. No. 2 shows an elaborate
costume in this dainty color, in light
broadcloth, trimmed with fine silk
braid in exactly the same tone. The
long points of the coat, shown in this
suit, are a distinctive feature of all the
new- gowns of similar pattern; the
long, exaggerated points, held nicely
in place .by flat weights sewn In the
lining, produce the long straight line
at the front, which is announced as a
thing to be striven for desperately.
The new .skirts are cut either with a
wide flare, with finishing bands
stitched and cut on the bias, or ar
marked- by wide, full pleats, falling
free from the hip line. An example
of the flared-skirt is shown, in No. 3..
The other skirts shown In' the illus
trations indicate the tendency towards
pleats. . . ;
, One of the -novelty walking suits, of
which there are several varieties, is
shown-in No. 4, which Is. a natty lit
tle costume, in-French, flannel of fine
cream and brown stripes. The loosely
fitted . jacket : is 'finished, with a mock-vest-of
red -velvet and, a. shining row
of braes buttons: The buttons also
figure on the velvet '.collar and - the
narrow velvet cuffs that finish off the
loose, one-piece kimono sleeve. The
skirt is cut quite short -and Is fin
ished at the bottom with wide and
narrow bias bands.
Pin stripes and diminutive checks
will be the leading pattern in dress
goods and suitings, according to the
dealers, and these are on display in' an
Infinite variety of tones and mixtures.
The National Idea.
New York World.
With our Iron roads whirling people
across a dozen state lines in a day. with
the telegraph obliterating distance and
time, with moral problems clamoring for
solution because of the discord of state
statutes, and with the strong net of cap-
of the .'General Government.; Scan as one
will the precedents and traditions, argue
as one may -for eiose pr loose construction
of the Constitution, nationalism is inevi
table. The National idea is the growth of
stern necessity. More than ever before.
because of newer and greater problems.
It is -necessary for the republic to turn
for political guidance, to its real leaders
of intellect, to its strong captains of in
dependent thought.
Christian Endeavor Work in Oregon
First Oregon Society Organized Five Years After the Original Asso-
ciation Has Had a Steady Growth.
Rockwood,
19O2-0..
T ' was in the year of 1SSS that the
first Young People's Society- of
Christian Endeavor in Oregon was or
ganized, five years after the famous
first society in Dr. Clark's church , In
Portland, Me. About . the fifth anni
versary of the founding of .the : W1U
iston society, in February, 1886, the
pastor of the Hassalb-street Congrega
tional Church, of Portland; Or.,.' Rev.
Daniel Staver, seeing the need .of train
ing the young people in his" church,
called them together , and helped tliem
to organir.e the first society in Oregfn.
There had been .other 'societies of
young people before but this is the
first one, as far' as ' records can be
found,, to embrace the essentials of
the young people's society as' suggest
ed by Dr. Clark. So' this month, Feb
ruary, 1908. may' be said , to be the
22nd birthday of Christian Endeavor
in Oregon. :
The Christian Emleavor" Society
spread In Oregon very -much ; the same
way as it did In the -rest -of the coun
try. ; The pastors. an,d, leaders .of , the
churches quickly realized that-a power
ful aid the young, .people's .. society
might be to a church, .and the-Organization
spread with great . rapldlty
throughout the state, untiU.in- compara
tively a few years every church,, with
few exceptions, had'lts. young people's
society. The first period, that of. the'
remarkable growth, extended for six
or seven years after the first organiza
tion. During the first fe-w years the
movement was - general -in all- the -denominations,
but after a time the so
cieties in the Methodist Church with
drew from the general organization
and formed the denominatlofta.1 Ep
worth League. Likewise, most ot the
Baptist societies became the denomina
tional 'Baptist Young . People's Union.
The : principal denominations ' in " the
state in which theC'hristian Endeavor
societies exist, are. the 'Presbyterian,
Congregational, Christian, Evangelical,
United Brethren and" a. few in the .Bap
tist. There are also' "some Union' socie
ties. i ,; T V ,
After the first wave of enthusiasm
which resulted in- the-formation of
many societies, a. ;.. reaction ; naturally
came, and many societies that did not
have lasting qualities, Were given up.
But soon they came .to' their perma
nent place, which .is a department of
the church. In the first 'enthusiasm,
its power was perhaps somewhat mag
nified, but now Its .place, has become
pretty well settled as . being the de
partment 'of the' church- for the train
ing of the young people to prepare
them for the duties of the church. It
Is. and ought to be a training school
a school which teaches by doing, and
which, under wise direction, may be
a potent force In producing efficient
leaders for the church of the future.
Already, many of those Who as young
people, received their training in the
early days of the young people's so
cieties, have taken their places, and
are' now good leaders in the church
work.
It. was several years. after the first
societies were organized before a union
Of , the ; Young People's Societies was
suggested. In the autumn of 1889 the
representatives , of a few societies,
mostly from Portland and vicinity, met
together in the Grace Methodist church
In Portland, and held the first conven
tion. This meeting was the beginning
of the State union. At first it was
little more than a local union,. but In
a short time, with the rapid gain of
the societies, it became a State union
In fact. ,
Among the leaders of those earlv
days were several well-known names.
Kev. - AV. H. Landen, then pastor of
Calvary Presbyterian church of Port
land, but now a professor in the theo
logical seminary in San'Anselmo, Cal.,
was one of the movers.' The first pres
ident was Dr. C. R. Templeton, now
a prominent member of the First Pres
byterian. church of Portland. The first
secretary was one of. the most enthu
siastic loaders of the earl'. days, Mr.
K. S. Milled, then a prominent member
of Grace Methodist church. It ;was due
to his enthusiasm and push that the"
union was put on a firm basis. He was
president for several terms, ' and he
gave a great deal .of his time and
thought to the Christian Endeavor
work, even to the neglect of his own
private business. . r
In' a few years the annual convention
came to be one of the most important
meetings of the church year. The State
organization has always' been a purely
voluntary association. - It has existed
solely for the inspiration of the
young people of the societies and its
jneetings . are planned--with - this in
view.
- The State Union has, on the whole,
been very fortunate In Its officers, and
especially In its presidents. The pres
idents have been about evenly divided
betwen the laymen and . the, younger
pastors. In the last ,two years, two
especially stand out' from the rest, Mr.
H. S. Gile of Salem, and -Rev. A. J.
Montgomery, pastor of the Third Pres
byterian ' church ,qf ..Portland. They
were both j-are-leaders, and their in
fluence was marked.- . " . . ,
State conventions are nowheld once
in -two years: In the alternate years
when there Is no State meeting, there
are district meetings in the different
districts, of the State, of which there
are ten. In that way the problem of
magnificent distance" is partially
solved, and nearly every soclctv at
least once in each year, is able to get
in touch with other, societies. The
present president of, the State Union"
is C. T. Hurd, the general secretary of
the Young Men's Christian Associa
tion at the Oregon Agricultural college
at Corvallls. He is a natural born
leader of young people, and he can be
depended upon to inspire all the young
people with whom he comes in contact.
Catholic Church aad Marriage.
New York Tribune."
Churchmen will , watch with much in
terest the operation of the new marriage
laws of the Roman Catholic Church,
which, according to reports, will be uni-
Exclusive Novelties
In Spring Attire
Correct styles backed by quality and value
are demonstrated in our immense showing of
the new Tailored Suits. That individuality
we claim for all our productions is strongly
stamped on these new models. In cut and de
sign they are , the embodiment of all that is
new. It is a pleasure to see the attractive
styles accomplished in the new materials, the
stripes lend themselves so admirably to de
signing and tailoring. A soft, mellow blend
ing of color is characteristic of these fabrics
the decided or invisible stripes in two, three
toned effects. Plain, fabrics also show beau
tiful coloring.. The Madame Butterfly models
as strictly novel as their style is, they all have
some touch that marks them exclusive and
distinctly as style-store creations. They
range in price from CCC ((
?2o.oo to .-..pOo.UU
SPRING WAISTS
Linen arid lawn Tailored Waists with broad and nar
row pleatings, plain and hand-embroidered collars
and cuffs; the most attractive ideas yet (IQ f(
shown; range in price from $2.50 to...J)OeUU
SILK PETTICOATS
New Spring Tailored Petticoats with extra full flounce
made in all the latest and most approved Sprint;
shades. The smartest creations of tailors' G"7 Cfn
ingenuity. Prices upward from PaOvy
MEN'S WEARING APPREL
Now shown at our Men's Clothing Shop is universally
conceded to be the best made ready-to-serve kind. It
represents the "knowing how" of Stein-Bloch, 1 ho
integrity of Schloss Bros, and the skill of Bradbury
System.
CREDIT IF DESIRED
You can arrange to pay for Spring outfit on small
weekly or monthly paymeuts.
Eastern Outfitting Co.
Corner of Washington and Tenth Streets
THE STORE WHERE YOUR CREDIT IS GOOD
versally enforced after next Easter. The
most interesting clause Is the one provid
ing that betrothals, to be binding before
ecclesiastical courts, must be formulated
In writing and attested by a priest or
two other trustworthy persons. What
makes this significant is the fact that It
has long been Insisted upon, In all es
sential respects, by not a few priests here
and there, and in some cases has resulted
in tempting many persons to break with
the church. Will the Increased authority
with which the regulation is .now prom
ulgated succeed in bringing the free
American back to the good old custom
of "publishing the banns?" The merits of
tills custom are great indeed, but we sus
pect that the headstrong and too inde
pendent American . youth will not see
them, even if the barin publishing fees be
cut down to a bargain sale figure.
KD
WAGE INCREASE IN PARIS
Shown by Table Covering Period of
100 Years.
PARIS, Feb. 8. (Special.) The Paris
municipality has just concluded an
Interesting Inquiry concerning the
modifications which have taken place
in wages in the French capital during
the last ten years, and also on the
cost of living of a certain number of
categories of workmen. The average
wages in 43 callings were in 1896 67
cents an hour and 6 francs and 37
cents a day In 101 they -were 71
cents an hour and 6 francs 93 cents
a day: and In 1906 they were 75 cents
an hour and 7 francs 19 cents a day.
The Increase In the ten years was con
sequently 82 cents a day, representing
an augmentation of 12 per cent.
The statistics of the cost of living
go back for more than 100 years. For
a family of four persons the average
cost Is put down at 964 francs .from
1804 to 1813; in the seven following de
cades 3032 francs, 1079 francs, 1060
francs. 1051 francs. 1222 francs. 129S
francs and 1363 francs respectively; at
1312 francs and from 1S84 to 1893, and
at 1260 francs from 1894 to 1903. Ac
cording to these statistics the cost of
living has decreased materially in re
cent years. It is at least doubtful
whether such is really the case.
The statistics are founded on thn
price of the same articles of fond
which a century ago was consumed by
the working classes in Paris. Since
then the tastes of the Paris workmen
have altered, and they indulge in what
their predecessors of 100 years ago
would have regarded as luxuries, but
which would now be called the neces
saries of life.
MEET DEATH TOBOGGANING
Sled Strikes Tree and Five Persons
Are Killed.
BERLIN'. Feb. 8. (Special.) An aw
ful example of the daughters which ac
company tobogganing unless it Is car
ried out under skilled guidance, was
furnished recently in Taunus, on the
run between Neuenhain and Sodcn.
A toboggan with six occupants was
descending the course, but failed to
take a sharp turn and rushed with
tremendous velocity against a large
tree. Four of the unfortunate crtv
were flung head first and with fearful
violence against the trunk of the tree,
with the result that two of them worn
killed outright, and the third was so
severely injured that lie died on the
way to the hospital. The fourth whs
carried away unconscious with a frac
tured skull, and expired the next day.
Countess May Work With Honrs!.
LONDON. Feb. 8. -(Special.) A pos
sible journalistic association between
the Countess of Warwick and W. It.
Hearst, of New York, is talked- about
Lin labor circles here, but just wlmt
form the venture will take is not
known.
. Hair Loss
Consult your doctor about your falling hair.
If he says, "A yers Hair Vigor is the best, "
then begin today. Do as he says.
Alters HairViqor
NEW IMPROVED FORMULA
Suppose you send this advertisement to
your baldest friend! Everybody should
know that Ayer's Hair Vigor promptly
checks falling hair, destroys dandruff, keeps
the scalp clean and healthy. Do.es not affect
color of the hair. Formula with each bottle.
We hate no secrets! We publish
the formulas of all our medicines.
J. C. AVER CO., Manufacturing Chemists, Lowell, Mass.