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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 19, 1908)
7 Frocks and Wraps for Fair Theater-Goers THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 19, 1903. r- : nil : : : : . 111 I i a 'J A w if: 1. A HANDJOJIB, BUT INEXPENSIVE, THEATER WRAP. Good Form in the Theater NOWHERE does good breeding or the lack of it stand out more clearly than In the theater. What you wear, how you wear it, how you bear yourself on entering the playhouse and luring the performance, all contribute to make you a charming companion or the reverse. And here, as in all phases of the social life, good form is founded on kind ly thought for others and their comfort. If you are attending an evening per formance in a city other than your home, tBcertaln first of all the theater customs Df that city. In some small cities, you would make yourself conspicuous If you went to the theater in a light frock with evening wrap and a scarf Instead of a hat. On the other hand, in a large city where hats at the theater are no longer considered correct, and where the man who acts as your escort will probably wear evening clothes, you would feel de cidedly out of place if clad in a tailored juit and silk or net shirtwaist. If you are joining a theater party in a large city or even in a smaller town where boxes have been reserved for your party, wear a dressy frock, a large loose wrap, something warm but light over your well-dressed hair, and carry your fan, handkerchief, glasses and powder puff in a bag. Do not, if you value a man's regard, wear a huge picture hat, a heavy tailored wrap, a fur stole and a muff, all of which either you or the man must hold on the lap during the per formance. If there is a checkroom in the theater, you can leave your wraps there, thus Insuring comfort for yourself and your escort in your seats. If you are to oc cupy a box, you wear your wrap to the box, and it is hung on a rack or a tree provided for that purpose in the rear of the box. The woman precedes the mRn in enter ing the theater. He hands his ticket to the doorkeeper and then, receiving his seat checks in exchange, he steps back for the woman to enter first. If an usher is ready to receive them, the man hands the checks to the usher, and, stepping back, allows the woman to follow the usher first down the aisle. If the man Is an habitual theatergoer who has a per fect knowledge of the house, and it is almost time for the curtain to rise, he sometimes does not wait for an usher, but goes straight to the seats indicated on the checks. In this case, he precedes the woman. in many cities the ' custom of women moving about the theater between the acts. Is decidedly on the Increase. If the foyer is large, women with their escorts stroll therein, meeting friends and stop ping for a chat between the acts. Women also pay calls on friends in boxes, and those sitting on aisle seats. It is rather bad form, however, to push one's way past a long row of other playgoers for a chat of a minute or two with some friend sitting in the very center of the row. All these questions must be set tled by consulting that Invariable barom eter, the feelings of these upon whose good nature you may be imposing. Girls who are under the guidance of really watchful mothers are today per mitted to go to the theater with young men, unaccompanied by a chaperon, but they do not go to a restaurant after wards. Generally, the mother provides a little supper at home and awaits their return. A young girl, however, may go i to supper at a restaurant with a theater party, provided the latter Is properly chaperoned by a married woman. The host or hostess of a theater party generally sends out her invitations from five to ten days In advance and aims to have an equal numbes of men and women. Esther boxes are reserved or a Made of seats In one row. or In two. sir K ill rows. The host can either distribute tickets among the guests in advance. making sure that each woman is properly provided with an- escort, or he can meet them in the lobby of the theater before the curtain rises. The noisy theater party is a modern abomination.' It comes in late, chattering down the aisle and through the per formance. It is conspicuous but not well bred, and is often rebuked by a star on the stage who has the courage of his convictions. Such conduct may indicate that Its participants consider that the possession of money gives them the right to annoy their neighbors, but it la not the stamp of social smartness. As a rule, the host and hostess of a theater party entertain also either at din ner before the play or supper afterward. This meal may be served at home or at a restaurant, but it Is not obligatory. Sometimes a married couple gives the theater party, and a bachelor entertains at supper afterward, or vice versa, the bachelor gives the theater party and the chaperon and her husband entertain at the supper afterward. The girl who thinks that a man must provide a huge bunch of violets, a cab and supper as well as the evening's pleasure at the theater, , has entirely wrong views of the man's social obli gations, unless they both belong to that social set where money Is plentiful. With the man of average income, a pair of theater tickets, with perhaps a simple supper afterward, represents about all that, in these times, he can afford to spend, and it is a rude girl indeed who does not manifest her appreciation of such courtesy. It is the man's place to thank the girl for her company to the theater, but most certainly it is her place also to express her appreciation of the play and his courtesy. It is not good form to eat candy in the theater and rustle the wrappings of the box when your neighbor is trying to fol low the play. It is not courteous to com ment on the play during its progress, and interfere with the pleasure of those who wish to follow the dialogue. If you have seen the play before, do not spoil the pleasure of those around you by telling your companion what will happen next, and where the laugh comes in. And above all things, do not wear a bat or a head-dress which will interfere with the view of those behind you. If you persist In wearing the hat in a first-class house, an usher will ask you to remove It, thereby embarrassing your escort. But if your head-dress is one of those 1908 enormities, built all round your head on a wire halo, you may rest assured . that uncomplimentary remarks will be passed by men and women unfortunately seated behind you. Hasty Dressing. Never boast that you can dresa in five minutes. No woman who has any respect for her appearance will attempt to dress in double that time. It is true In dressing, as in everything else, that where there is great haste there is little speed. It Is particularly trying for any woman to dress in a hurry. She gets flurried, and In her attempt to put in rins- sticks her fingers and proba bly stains her blouse with blood. Buttons come off, laces break, gloves and veils cannot be found. When at last she is ready she Is con scious of appearing her worst instead of at her best. The five-minute dressing habit Is one that the carefully dressed woman will never Indulge in. urn' H I STYLES In theater raiment are very pronounced this season. While even ing dress is not yet . seen in the American theater, the elaborate reception or house gown, with perhaps a suggestion of the decollete bodice, such as a small "V" or Dutch neck, and elbow sleeves, is greatly in' evidence. In none of the larger cities do well-dressed women wear short skirts nnd tailored suits to the theater after night. If e cloth frock is -worn, it is of most supple quality, cut with a slight train and softened at neck and sleeves by elaborate lace, chiffon or embroidered mull tucker, or yoke and un dersleeves. The city -woman, whether she rides In carriage or streetcar, is generally aban doning the hat when she goes to a fash ionable playhouse after dark, and there is no reason why women of smaller cities should not follow suit. The crocheted "cloud" or "nubia." dear to the -hearts of our grandmothers, was considered most fashionable in their day, and it reappears this season in a dozen modern and fas- ; elnating forms. Certainly the average woman maxes a much more pleasing ap pearance at the theater in some soft Clinging frock, with hair carefuiiy dressed and finished with a pretty ornament, than If she wore her best tailored gown with a beavy hat to match. If a few women who are recognized as leaders in the smaller cities would puBh this fad for regulation theater gowns and theater wraps, however simple, worn without hats, their less progressive sisters and neighbors would soon follow suit, and the local playhouse would take on a more fes tive air. The theater frocks seen in first-class houses In such large cities as New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Washington and Chicago, this season, are well worth studying. First, as to general effects. The Ideal theater frock has a slight train, is made from clinging material which falls in soft lines, is of a tint not too garish but soft under electric and gas light, shows the same fabric in tooth skirt and bodice, has a suggestion of the low neck, such as one displays at an informal dinner, and is set off by such jewelry as harmonizes with the gown, and brings into play the most charming contents of your jewel box. Unless you go to and from the 'theater In a carriage, do not select a very delicate or perishable fabric for your theater gown. And even when you have a car riage, the floor of the theater may 'oe far from spotless, and if you are on the aisle, men passing you between the acta are apt to step on your dainty frock and spoil it Chiffons, gauzes and thin nets are not wise selection for this gown. Better far AN UP-TO-DATE THEATER FROCK. is a voile over silk, or a heavy blonde net inset with lace. Soft, supple silks like louisine, messallne and liberty, make practical theater gowns, and for an Inex pensive frock there is nothing more ef fective than cashmere, which comes this year In all the newest and most effective colorings. Crepe de c-hine is seen very little this Winter, but black nets, heavily spangled or inset with lace, are very pop ular. Young girls are wearing organdies and other wash fabrics over silk slips, tout while these dress the theater as well as the wearer very prettily, they invite pneumonia, unless the girl Is well-wrapped for the trip to and from the theater, and tht playhouse Itself is well-warmed. Light weight, supple broadcloth is a popular fabric also. . . ' In colors, unquestionably, black, white, or one of the various pale tans or biscuit tints is most effective for theater wear. When a black gown is worn, it is relieved toy much soft, white material at neck and wrists, and here the ingenuity and handi work of the home dressmaker have full play. When real lace is to be found in tlie- family box of heirlooms, it forms the best combination with black net. chiffon cloth or silk voile, but if this is not at -hand, then embroidered Bilk mull, silk or cotton net, encrusted with lace medallions and run with handtucklng is an excellent substitute. The most effective and up-todate com binations show wonderful overgowns of transparent silk voile, chition cloth or net In a delicate biscuit, mode or smoky tan tint, with undersllp of rich golden or bronze-brown. The frock proper may be trimmed with lace dyed in the self-tone, or to match the underslip, or in passemen terie, in which the brown and metallic hues appear. A gown of this type Is pictured today. This is a" very pale tan or biscuit colored silk voile over amber colored silk The bands of cluny lace were dyed to match the voile and are fairly illuminated by the brilliant tint of the silk beneath. The skirt Is in three pieces, with a front sec tion laid In a double boxpleat. The tunic or overskirt, is in two pieces, and finished with deep points so that the height of the wearer Is not cut off. For the very short woman, the bands which finish the tunic must be of the same material, or in self tone, but the very tall woman may use lace or bands of contrasting color. The blouse is most- effective, having long "V" shaped lines back and front, with or without a tucker of fine chiffon, mull, ne) or lace. This chemisette may be high or low-necked, according to the needs of the wearer, or two chemlssettes may be supplied, one for the matinee and one for- evening wear. For a medium sized woman, about 12 yards of 27-Inch goods will be required for this costume. The wrap shown is admirably designed to meet the needs of a woman with slen- der purse, but ambitious to appear well dressed. With the rage for Japanese effects slow ly waning, it is folly for a woman of moderate means to buy a kimono-like wrap. Far better and less conspicuous is the wrap of our Illustration, . which Is Toomy enough to protect the frills and puffs of the most elaborate frock, and simple enough for the home-dressmaker to score success with the pattern. Made from tan-colored broadcloth, with self tone frogs, and collar and cuffs of oriental embroidery in soft colorings, it Wquld be handsome enough for the average theater party. If white is chosen, it will require many cleanings. Colors more pronounced, like, pink, blue, cerise, etc.,' are too conspicu ous for the woman who can afford but one evening wrap, and black is not always becoming to a woman after night. But tan is a safe color always, especially if brightened by the oriental colorings in the collar and cuffs. This pattern calls for three and a half yards of material 4 Inches wide, the average width of broad cloth and similar cloakings. Blouses to be worn at the matinee should match or follow in some way the general design, color and fabric of the two-piece suit with which it is worn. A design for such a blouse is shown in this connection. The overblouse can be made of material like the skirt, broadcloth, vel vet, eta, but If the two-piece suit has been bought ready-made and no material is left for a blouse, then select silk of precisely the same shade, to be made over a guimpe or yoke of lace, net, silk mull, etc. The application of embroidered bands to out line the overblouse in this design Is most effective, and gives the home needle woman ample opportunity to demonstrate -her deftness and taste in color combina tion. . At'the matinee, the' Independent waist or fancy blouse of white silk or net Is often seen with the two-piece tailored suit, but the really well-dressed woman chooses a blouse In which both the color and the fabric of the tailored skirt appear. Leapyear Dances -pc DELIGHTFUL, and appropriate enl r tertalnment to give during the next few weeks would be a leap year dance. People are always looking for something a little out of the ordinary when they are planning to entertain, and, while this is not strictly novel, it nevertheless has not been played for four years. So it may be that those who participated in it when they last bad an opportunity to do so would not care for it now, and that those who at the present time are of an age to enjoy it, have not heard of it so far. At any rate, it is very diverting, and I offer it as a suggestion to the hostess of the New Year who is racking her brains vainly for ideas, perhaps at this very moment. The whole affair must be gotten up by the girls. They must engage the hall (if none of them has a house large enough), they must engage the music, see to the decorations and the programmes and en gage the caterer. Having attended to ail the details, each girl must sit down and write a note to the favored young man, asking his per mission to escort him to a dance. After he has coyly consented, she should call him on the phone and arrange about the time for calling for him. Oh, yes, Indeed, she must call at his house on the night of the dance, and see to it that he gets there safely. She should also bring him a buttonhole bou quet of some kind, for it is certainly not very complimentary to refuse to bring flowers to the person you are to escort to a dance. There are an sorts of ways of getting around this unpleasant necessity of hav ing to call for the gentleman. Of course, If you know him very well, and are on good terms with his family, you will not mind it so much, and you could arrange to call early in the evening, say about half past seven, so that you need not be afraid. But in case you do not care about going boldly up the front steps, ringing the bell, and inquiring of the maid whether or not Mr. Smith is at home, you might get a carriage, and not alight from it at all. It would be a very simple matter to have the coachman drive up to the house, get down from the box, and ring the bell. When the maid answers, he could Inquire if Mr. Smith was ready, and then return to his post. You could remain quietly seated in the carriage, secure from any curious glances, and wait until the gentleman joins you. which would probably be a matter of only a minute or two.- Another method of sliding out of a dis agreeable duty would be to invite the gentleman to your house for dinner. At the conclusion of the meal, the two of you would simply have to depart for the place at which the dance is to be held. But such a procedure would be departing not only from the letter, but also from the spirit of the law. Arrived at the hall, the gentlemen, after having disposed of their raps, will eat themselves modestly against the wall, while the girls, lounging around the door and in groups, will see to it that their partners' cards are fllied. When the dancing begins, it will be the duty of the young women to find the partners, and to bring them up and in troduce them to the gentlemen. As soon as supper is announced each girl must find the gentleman whom she escorted to the dance, accompany him out to sup per, and see that all his wants are most gallantly supplied. The girls will conduct- themselves throughout the evening with as much at tentlveness as possible. Not until the dance is over, and prepa rations are being made to return home, should conditions be permitted to revert to their original state. The young men will escort the girls home, for naturally it is out of the question for girls to play at being men, no matter how much they may enjoy the game, at 2 o'clock in the morning. Pepper and Salt Mixed. Bohemian'. The proof of the auto is In the death-list. Many a man thinks himself far-seeing, when in realky he Is only far-sighted. The secret of success aim high and use a shotgun. Promoter a modern alchemist who can transmute hot air Into gold. A eure way of rendering the straight and narrow path more popular make it wide enough for automobiles. The original Big 6tlck the rolllng-pln. Money may make some people mad but It's the lack of It that makes most of us wax warm In the neck-cloth. A checkered career frequently ends In stripes. An agnostic Is a fellow who says he knows nothing and thinks he knows every thing. In Bhakeepeare's time the play was the thing. Now it's the box receipt The dark ages anywhere between 28 and 40. ' Matrimony-Che lighting chance. A BLOUSE FOR To Look Well IF daylight is trying on the complex ion, artificial light, and especially electricity is merciless. The woman whose complexion, features and hair show the onward march of years, or the fact that she is not just as well groomed as she might be, takes refuge in a drooping hat and becoming veil when she fares forth during the day. But at night, and particularly in the theater with its myriad lights, no mer ciful shadows are cast, no hat or veil minimizes her defects. Therefore it pays the theater-going woman to make her toilet with great care and linger lovingly before her dressing table. . Her throat, her complexion and her hair must be carefully prepared, before she dons her costume, and however fetching the latter, it will be wasted if she is not well groomed. To begin with, when she massages her face and applies such simple cos metics as today are considered essen tial to the toilet, she must also treat her neck. For the chronically brown neck and in this day of tailor collars, brown necks are unhappily common she must use regularly the following lotion: Boric acid, 1 drachm. Distilled witch-hazel, 2 ounces. Rose water, 2 ounces. Exercise the throat night and morn ing until it becomes moist with per spiration, wipe off the perspiration with a soft cloth dipped in warm water and apply the lotion - with antiseptic gauze. After a week of this treatment, you will see a marked improvement in the color of your neck. When making your theater toilet, massage throat, ears and face with Ori ental cream, formula of which is given below. Rub this in carefully and pains takingly, so that no oil stands out on the skin. Oriental Cream: Sweet almond oil, ounces. White wax melted, 320 grains. Spermaceti, 320 grains. Trifles for Theater-Goers STARTING quite properly with the slippers, the very newest thing in fancy f oot-coverin-g for theater wear is the bronze slipper, a deep, rich brown-bronze. They come in both fancy and plain styles. A deft-fingered girl can purchase a pair of plain bronze slippers with medium high heels, and bead the toes with fine bronze and gold beads. This is diffi cult work, but it can be done by using a fine leather needle. Or she can buy smart buckles in bronze or gold and fasten them on herself; she can buy bronze ribbon, and set off smart flat bows with gold or bronze buckles or beaded ornaments, like butterflies! in beads, on heavy net, wired around the edge. The plain bronze slippers can be' bought for S2. Beaded or buckled, they easily touch the $5 mark. Next comes the theater bag, which this season is made principally from ribbon, Dresden or pompadour, or from scraps of rich brocade. The ribbons of velvet with satin or moire edges, or a flowered center and velvet edge, are much in favor, also ribbons with tinsel in their pattern. If you have the mounting for the bag. a top of an old bag with hinges, catch and chain, either in , silver or gilt, all the better. You have only to cut your oblong bag, line it with harmonizing silk, and whip it upon the frame. If you have no frame and do not care to buy a new one (though these are on sale at all department stores), then run a ribbon through the top, or better still, use a cord and tas sel. Have this bag large enough to hold your opera-glasses, your latch key, handkerchief, a tiny fan, if you must carry one. and your powder box. Some of the prettiest ribbon designs show yellow roses with shadowy touches of gray for gold mountings. THE MATIN KB. by Night's Light Benzoin (finely powdered), 100 grs. Tincture of ambergris, 60 grains. Rice feculae (pulverized), 320 grs. Pure carmine, 15 grains. Blend the fats in a double boiler, add the benzoin while they are heating; the rice and carmine while it is cooling, and tincture last of all. You will note that there Is no lanolin in this cream, hence no danger of encouraging a growth of hair on the face. When this cream has been thoroughly worked into the skin, decide Just what whitening or coloring your skin needs. If you have a high color, you need only a delicately tinted powder. If you are very pallid you can work rather high on tho cheek and back into the temples a bit of rouge. Do not apply this In one round spot, but break the coloring as it is broken in the naturally tinted complexion and work it out slightly toward the edges where It joins the whiter, natural skin. Make sure that you get neither cream nor powder into your eyebrows or hair. Brush the eyebrows very carefully with a tiny toothbrush, or one that comes especially for this purpose. ' Dress your hair very softly around your temples, and especially above your ears. The severe pompadour or classic coiffure Is charming on a per fect profile, but few modern women have perfect profiles, and your escort is pretty sure to secure only a profile view of you in the theater. Soften this view by waves or tendrils of hair about the ears, and at the nape of the neck. This does not mean uncurled, strag gling locks, but soft, clinging ripples of hair which any girl can achieve by dressing her hair with care. I will be very glad to furnish a good hair-curler, with Instructions for its use, on receipt of a stamped and addressed envelope, to any girl who has not clipped them from former articles. and wonderful ehadowy orchids on a white ground, and perhaps a touch of silver or gilt in the design. Ribbon enters largely into the mak ing of the new hair ornaments, though It is far more soft in its treatment than it was last year. Narrower ribbon is used, generally a double-faced supple satin ribbon about an inch wide. This is twisted like a rope in and out of the puffs, which contribute so much to the beauty of the up-to-date hair-dressing. The showers of ribbon flowers and stiff blue and pink roses offered of late years in the rlobon departments -have disappeared in favor of softer effects. Oelicate chiffon flowers, or artificial blossoms in finest silks and velvet, are combined with ribbon. For the stiff, upright hair ornaments, the ribbon bows are made entirely of loops, smartly wired, and from the cen ter of this bow generally rises a spang led aigrette or tiny, dew-tipped marl bout ponpon. Spanish and point de Paris scarfs, oblong or three-cornered, are much worn over the uead. also dainty trifles of chiffon, crepe de chine, or liberty silk, trimmed flatly with lace. These are not so long as the neckscarfs, and always light and airy. Slips for Children. A new departure in the making of nn dersllps to wear under children's lingerie dresses is seen In the employment of warp prinks. Persian and pompadour designs are tootli much used where warmth is desired, or the undersllp can be made of satin of a soft weave. The new French patterns in which the materials are shown are very artistic and original in treatment, and are sufficiently decided to make them adapt able for the requirements of the color tone necessary in an undersllp.
