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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 13, 1907)
47 C0RRE5P0ND.ENC E- GHOOL OP.: STYLE AND AUTV THE SU1A1 : .OKWiOSIAS. FOKTLAM). JAM'AKl 13. ltU7. BE Revival of 1830 Lines in Spring vW Frocks Tl IKRIO can be no nuestion about a revival of the drooping lSIJO linrM In tlie nrar fuinrc. Long Shoul ders, sonii-f lowing sleeves, soft, caoe- II ko efforts ami other IS:iO KiifCiCcstlons ir Klinwn in the designs for early SpriiiR frocks. Tlic tirooplnfj effect of thft Kmpire scarf, the bretelle and other feat tires of t lie "Win t r gowns will te emphasized in the Spring, and the lat est evening? cloaks have scarcely a tHl Io rod line, hrlnft draped on almost c-IhshIi; lines with flowing folds. There are somo iotU-iablo examples n wrars which seem to le cut 1 1 from one piocc of cloth. a. n t In ni any s ir w rt Jackets and blouses It is hard to tin J a seam dividing the waist pieces from T Jit- uleevc. Mntcrlals. The lionift ili'Mnnuikor who iklm to u r e drooping lines must look first to li -- rabrk-. Thin rnuft - tyf th rioflo.it texture, without stiffening- or body. For this vmw nm ov Pititton velvet ia better than t lie old reliable Lyons vel vet. C'rrpo de chine. Jlliert v statin and ctiicr soft flnislnHi latnlw, arc to be preferred to the stiffer satins and bro- n I k. A sort il l lnvor Ihi-.- wt II d roojf hftter than a hfvy pat tern or a net vnicit iioiua nui'ili tlrrsslnfl, Iirrc 1 ruopi iifr nes .K rc Seen. The Empire skirt and t li - Prlnuc?.- hoth siiKgcst 'wig, flowing linos, for it properly niado. they give the woman i -i K M t .i( I h li K ' t sompthlnK classic in their rol.is. I m ii h neither or tliese styles ran bo afforded, nor arc they ue- comlnjr to the average woman, tlio droopinpr effect must lie obtained in the Upper part of the ft n r ttj unt throiiKh sleeves, rapes, yokes. Jackets, etc. The length of the shoulder ream will po far to siiKKest 1roopinjr lines, and ft, capo like attarhmont wh l-h runs from t ho t-ollar over the shoulders like a. bretelle will do even more, To Secure Drooping Linos. The i M ust rat ion wli leh accompanies this article, shows the value of sleevfi lines. The material chosen is a. black ami white Krenad i ne to be mndo over white ni Ik for a blouse Urcaa. The hlouso Is of white lace. Tucked chiffon mlfrht be substituted. The over-blouse Is of striped grenadine laid in fine pleats, and the" arm's eye Is hidden un- dor these pleats, which extend at least six Inches over the sleeves of the lace Mousr. Tills slvn ii rj exuberated Klioulder lengrth and arm s eye. The same effect t:an lie obtained by the homo dressmaker in the popular skeleton waist, if slio uses a deep brutelle com -poxed of three strips with a triangular finish on cacli, the central strip being the longest. The deep yoke which . is a marked fi-ature of the Nprinfc tl o use- wl II elon Kate tlie shoulder line. l'or Instance, ft very pretty blouse of point d'esprit required two yards (at 69 cnts a yard), a bolt of CIct m an Vulrnclf nnes cdRin n. one of insertion and much ingenuity on the pun of the sower. The point d'es- prlt was made Into a very simple elbow J sleeve blouse, with a yoke and collar fof Insertion. . Across tlie front of tlie 'blouso lit the bust line were run by band half a doxen fine half-inch tucks. t Tlie sleeves were tui ked In the same (way. save that the tucks were arranged i in the form of scallop?, or semi-circles. The yoke of Insertion was also laid in the form of scallop!. and over the shoulders were epaulets running from ; the collar down over the sleeves, made of insertion edged with Val. The sleeves were finished, with a shaped ruffle of Insertion edgrA -with Val. A v?ry stylish long shouldered effect for an elderly woman was obtained thus: A blouse of liberty taffetas In a rich shade of golden brown was tucked ncross tlie shoulders and down the front to a point just above tlie bust line. where tlie tucking; opened out full and was erathereil in HKitln at the waist line, Instead of ft yoKe tliia Mouse was finished with a very deep collar made of peril net. striped downward and out with narrow Vi-lvi't rlbhon matching tlie golden Drown of the silk, Tilt! col lar vrr flnlnliocl tn tlie form of seven n large SH. Gaul rose shading from villi e through various yellows to a prolde n brown. Tin lifgn "o 1 1 at was of tine net. MLrlpiMl -w 1th n.'irrn w velvet rf b- hon. The elbow sleeves were finished With Cliffs of the net anil velvet rlUjona. 1 ii t the graceful drooping lines were htalned til rough thin deep 1 ;i . - collar. ro of w hose seal lops ran far down mc correct 1 t over the arm's m Another beautiful rullar which fin i ri d t Iouhi' of Ho est lia ndkerchl e C M ulai- leave tlieir list and stiolc In the hall, and have the right hand unKloved. Evening clothes, or a tuxedo coat with white waistcoat and black trousers, are worn for evening: calls. Women must stop not less than 13 min- utff In nmlciiid formal calls. Men re main from 15 minutes to ttiree-tniarters of" an hour, and an evening call Is seldom shorter than the last-named time. Who Calls IMrtJt?. Newcomers in the town or neighborhood aiv.1 brides wait to be called upon. The unmarried woman call; first on the mar ried- woman if both have been out ot town. If two women have been out of town, ami one during that time was en- tertalned by the other, on theif return to town tlie Ruent must raako the first call on the hostess. All of these calls should be made as soon as possible, and not allowed to run for months, or even weeks. Duly Callto. If you bare been entertained at a din ner. a breakfast, a liinchoon r musioalf or a ba 11 a call must be made within a fortnight' after the date of entertain- mcnt. Thlf rule holds good for men and women both, even If the invitation was dec-lined. TC vou have served as bridesmaid., 1 her or in any other capacity at a oddinfr. vou muJt call uMn the bride's mother within a fortiilKbt after the w''i- djiig, . and upon the bride directly after she- returns front her nodding joiirnoy. Ci ::etK Invited only to a church ceye- mon v are not ex pectcd I pn - 1 1 1 '-si- . -; 1 1 l.t. taut anv one invited to a houwe wed dins or tlie reception following' tlie cliurcii ceremony must call on both motber and bride. 1 r one of yur friends hi vt ten you t call on nn out-tr-iown j?npi ninKr tnc call v.-ithin a week after tlie kucmI's ar rival If lier Btv is to be pruUinanl. o wlthln a row days if ft ts to be a brier visit. When there has ken a death. In a fam- ily with whose members yon sire ac quainted, you must call Immediately and leave your cards, with a message of sym- pathy written across them. Then at any time between ten days and three weeks after the funeral ym nu:st call and ex press brief! v your aynipaljiy. Do not Tccl oended if you are not re- 1 reived atJiis time. It is tho privilege of i grief, but your call must be made. Neck wear Suggestions A ush S a sort of reaction after several aon.s of beru ffled Mous, the netkwear for tills Winter and early importations for spring wear shotv a decided loaning toward stlfT tailored' effects. This is even true of the em- broklerrd and lace ciieniiettv'? nr yokes inserted into Rinvns and ricli fabrics. For Insliince. an imported own of h Iff on velvet had cuffs and chemisette not of soft frilly lace, hut of linost linen. hand-embroidered in an open-work, lace like pattern, quite devoid of fancy ed Rea. Aftr two years of attaclied collars matrhing tw blnua. we have returned to the linen collar. beautiful, to be ,ire. with embroidery and openwork, but nevertheless suggesting the still neeK- wea$ of our fathers and brothers. The now cutaway coats demand thin wtilT NEW WAYS TO EARN MONEY My Cjnlbin Wrorr Aldet. frmlient loternatltinl Snn- Hlilnc Society; ut!icr Wonieu'Ji Wnyn of KnrulnK Money. HEN one who. lias hart every com fort alf her life suddenly finds her self In a position where she mut either earn her way or livy off someone else- the first question she ask herself Is. " " hat can I do?' The Usual ?:quf piiicii . .Genorally she hap had the Irreadlar edu cation that is Lvii the average Rirl. She ean china pain t "(a little" : draw en oust' to Milt her frlfnUPfwlth menu cards, name cart's. Christmas cards, e.tr. lay - i lltt She can play "a little." jceuerMlly from memory, becausej she has forgotu-n how to' read her nute?( She ran sew "a little." but is not even A finished mender. She d - not Want to do hou.sework. or act as cliambermald, duett not know l.ncn wa's mawJe in seven sections, with deep points, eacn ee 1 1 on embroidered with a single rose, and the points out- llui'd with lace. The Dutnts ot the col lar extended at least four inches over the .rnV eye. and the front of It was nntuhed with a jabot. . sometimes tlie trimming: is so ar- ranged as to irlve tlie effet of a yoke. F-" i- InBtanre. over a hlousf or tine net and lace there was hunt? a skeleton or brmiie finish of ;iiK which was most effective. This started in the front just bolow tlie bu.-t line. rn ovei- tlie shoul-d-r and tt o w ii Klie uleevea. and 1 1 1 o across tlie back, g;tviu bretelles over the nhoulJera and re vera or lapels outlining- the yoke lck and front. This sk'.'"tiin was of silk, tlnlHhcd with two bands, one at the top and one at the liottom Pilgd. Thosf lands bretetles hung down in two points not unlike the sliape of the Oreek key pattern. In the front this skeleton was apparently held In place by rosettes ot orange velvet. On one of tlie ne w model for Spring voile and lace are combined in a natty Jacket. The under sleeves are of lace, with cuffs of the voile. A short cape like jacket Is laid In ploats from the shoulders to a point Just below the bust line, where it meets a high girdle. it is outlined on tlie lower edjre with vel vet of n. deeper nhad, and Just over tlie Mtioulder a --ape of -v-flvet Is set in to fall down four inches below ttie arm's eye. Coming: from under this cape or epa ulet is a second sleeve -cape ot ac cordion pleated voilt-. If early all tlie JSprinr sleeves suggest epaulots. this being one of the tricks wear is eat he red in Quite full at the waist line. augRestlns a full blouse, but over tills is laid deep lapels drawn tight over the shoulders to point three Inches brloM- the arm's eye. and with an epaulet that conies aimoMt to tlie el' how over a full pulled sleeve nt tlie cloth. This epaulet " ts trimmed with buttons, but It is irot detached from Llie lapel. A smart little street suit of checked has voile to bloused Kton Jacket open i the f -o t to display a yoke iv tt d i- of beax-y lac-. Th- Jweket seems parate on the siioulflerfi tor a dis tance of three Inches, and the lace from the e (tllar and yoke runs down over the hull Klfin stralslH down -.tie le-ve to the elbow. The sleeve pieces are shirred into the strip of laee and each one la Tonics; Mow to Use Them T HE efficacy of a tonic lies not so I much in Its Incrcdienta n in h 1 method of nnnllr-n t ion eimin.tnlv known a .1 scalp mMs.Mse. tn fact, scien tific massage without a tonic will prevent tlC falling out of hair and cure many of the nc-h lj ailments which retard the arowth of hair and make it dead and "Ww rall1f'- man flossy and rich In color. Correct Method or !-ic- lp Massage. Tlie, object ot all scalp massage is to keep the scalp from becoming adherent to tlie bone underneat h. This is done lor two reasons Urst. to keep the SCdlp perfectly flexible on Its sumwtlng frame. work, and second, to increase the circu it Hon In the veins which feed the hair roots. The massage movement, which loosens the scalp from fhe bone, is as follow: lt-Kinnnlr at, the center of the top of the ficnlp. with the forefingers of both hands niiikr it circular motion with thp tips of tho llncors. pressing hiud on the down- .-.i curve mid Ilfclitlv on the upward fompletiun or the clr.-le. Continue tills movement over the entire front surface of tlic sc:il. Wine fuirp to come quite down to the Juncture between scalp and lore h end. To niassHfie thf bftck of (he bead th tll Of the foiefmgo.rs are placed at the back of the nee 1c where the hair begins, and t same i-lrcular in otlon. with heavy u nd liKhl pressure on upward and down- wfl curves Is employed over the entire back portion of the scalp. These simple niHflMag exei-cifen prnctloed five or ten minutes each niaht before retiring and pltcr the hair has teen loosened ana allowed to fall over tho shoulders, -will in t he course of three weeks or a month dim ul ate the roots and frreatly Increase tlie life and beauty ot the hair itself. Whore tho hair Is dry and difficult to keep In shape this massage should be done once a week with olive oil. ap- plying it simply by tlijjplng the lingers In the oil before beginning the rubbrnff. The hair should be shampooed tho lol- oily pow IrtHtead of lowing day. If the hair Is dorcd borax can be rubbed in the olive oil. ror a dry scalp use this cream when massaging: "White vaseline-. 3 ounces: castor oil. 1 ounces; ical 1 1- acid. li drams : oil of lavender. SO drops. ISfther when employed in connection with mas- 3 Re, will stimulate tbe growth of the Vhen the hair is falling out after Ill ness try this tonic: Tlncturft of can- tharldes. 1 ounce: rectified spirits. 2 pints: sublimated sulphur. 1 ounce; glycerine. S ounces. After massaging the scalp apply pure olive U or white vaseline alone. it tifthtly. The split ends ail) then stand up. and you can clip them off with m 1 arp Hciiart or singe tlir-m off with a lighted paper. KATHERINK MORTON. I'ses for Old t'nrierwca r. "Pieces of old woolen underwear this lotion to the spots where the hair is thinning and allow It to dry In. When the hair Is turning prematurely gray try this lotion : Terebene, 1 dram ; borax, 1 dram; sulphur, 1 dram; lavender water, 6 ounces. After niassaj this lotion: J ounces; borax, 6 ounces. After massaging an oily scalp apply this lotion: Bicarbonate of soda. I1 '4 ounce; cologne water, 2 ounces: rectified spirits. 1 ounce: tinc ture of coehineal. ounce: distilled water, 16 ounces. This can toe used either In connection with shampooing or mas sadinir. . Another excellent tonic for very oily hlr which mav- be ued nisrhtly in , con nection with massage, is tills: Tincture of cnntharluVs (aleholld 1 ounce! spll'- Its of rosemary. IV ounces: clycerine. 1 ounces, aromatic vinegar. ounces ; rose water, 3 ounces. Brushing the hair. It is now Tecognlzcfl, Is not to stimulate the scalp, but to give luster to the hair proper. Avoid a wire or coarse "bristle brush and do not drag on the hair, Expert hairdressers Hold a strand of hair close to the scalr with one hand and brush the long lock with the other. Their object Is merely to make the hair glossy, The scalp is stimulated by massage. When the hair is SDlit nt the ends It must be either clipped or Hinged. Sep arate It Into strand or locks and twist be put to so many practical tuos that the housewife can ill afTord to throw In cutting the garment up first re- 'move, any pearl buttons that may be on It. and put them- into the button bag. The arms and legs. i f out into eiaht-lncli lengths, stuffed with odd bits and sewn up at the ends, maKe excellent polishers for hardwood floors. . Pieces that cannot be used for any thing else make good washcloths, iron holder?, pot Holders for use in cooking and cloths for cleaning brass and sil verware. niacurded gauase and lisle underwear may be utilised Tor Gust cloths, for which purpose It is far superior to any new v material. Old silk underwear is especially convenient for ducting pianos and highly pons net J furniture. good form irsr CALLING Before cutting up underwear of any rrt it Is well to remember that In case f Illness old undergarments are always be preferred to new; also that many more changes are reiiuirod than In health. It Is a on hand good plan, therefore, to have supply of such garments, neatly ciarnea or patched, Tor use m just such an emersency. In most fam ines there is enough underwear discarded- every year to provide for these contingencies and still have a quantity left over for household purposes. Apple I . t cl I ii BY FRANCES MORGAN'. Hrtlf A cupful of Indian meal, half a cupful of molasses. 1 Quart milk, 1 tea spoon salt, 2 teas poo nf uls butter. 1 pint pared and quartered apples, quarter tea- spoonful gl nicer, same of nutmeg. Put milk in double boiler. When tt 'bolls stir in the meal. CooK half an hour, stirring often. Add molasses, but- pour la mix BaKe slowly three hours. A ter. seasoning and apples. Flutter deep baking dish ; ture TH R wel I -bred xvomn n is more than Pcii'tieuhir, in the i.iutlr of rulls calls of " common courtesy, dinner r-: I'm. calls of condolence or of congra tu- lotion. For tbe woman of few social obligations, there is absolutely no excuse for Ignoring 1tie few rules to he - ob served in calling-. - Only the woman whose social life is one mad round of entertain ments is justified in making; her cards serve calling: doty without, her presence. Calling Hours, In a largre city women call" between tlie hours of 3 and half-past 5 in v the afternoon. - If the woman on whom you Intend to always Jn smaller towns, hod to do washing and ironing even if she were strong:- enough, whifh she and everybody elxe thinks she is not. -X W oiua.il-. In just such a position a woman, now successf u 1 in hci line ot" work. once found hersel f. When her husband, who was a minister, died, nlie realized tliiit she rimst do something to help maintain the faintly left to her t-aie. She ronlU chlrui-pninl. ii.i.l she di.l. Slue knew enough to make pretty menu cards, and she sold tlieni until all 1km- friends were s.ipnlied. When orders for chinn Kftve out and tlie income wws small, work OS hard as slic might, she could not maKe ends meet. The market was overstocked with Just the things she rould do. ' .-X iend'8 Idea. Finally, a friend of hers went to Vienna and. bearing her in mind, looked ubuut for some new ways iT muktoK money, that she might carry buck something that would help the wage-earner in this new step she hatl taken in life. The most expensive kind of fancy ortlcles she found to be called the aniltiue-embosscd leather- worK, and everybody was paying lahu- Ions prices for it. -That If The thing.-- he s Id. So. fol lowing up one" piece of -work she discover- ed where it was made, anU offered tu pay to learn how to hand -tool and eni- bosS. etc. When she cume back to New York she taught this art to her friend, and since the (list OTuen wro given slie has haJ more than she eould fill. The work is done m the -v-erv best Ftiislii leather, that seems to be the only leather that mil take tnc iiandiooiiiis ami an uroi)- erly under the chemical process through which It must so for eoloringn. So far aw known he Is the on ly worn on this side of the water who doe? this antique embossed work, and reproduces vamptc; pureliasod in Vienna tlnit canr lc- I in proved upon even ly the or licit designers. ' How Perse vera nee Succeeded. S?tie tomplotcd 'a few ulecew and took them from art store to a rt st ore offering; the in for sale. The smaller stores did not know of the process, .and felt that it would be utise fe to Introduce Niich a n thing. The larger . stores recognized the beauiifyl worK, but doubted the met that it was done In this oountr. ' V will go to every store In the city but what 1 will find a place Cor my goods," she said. "The world wants good thlngB. itntoue things, and Is wllline to I". ii - I will keen on until I strike a sale." (-' 1 1 1 H 1 1 an order was K i 1' i'O tn the Brooklyn Arts and, era its. This was followed hy another order and another, every piece going out bel: Its own advertising agent to such an tent that she today is unable io satisfy the demand of the public for these pretty thines. " "Xcvrr give up. Is her motto. Tt was her pel-severance in placing tlie work that gave tills little woman success. There are many young women today who know how to make things that would sell, but fhey have no push, no confidence fn them- selves, nor in the work that they do. Having a good article to sell is only half the business. Putting It on the market is quite as important. call lias an afternoon at home, select that day for your call. thfi suhnrh and country colonies, calling ia permissible both afternoon and evening, but even a suburbanite does not like to be caught unawares in the "morning. Men may call Sunday afternoons and evenings: In the evening, not. earlier than half-past 7; on Sundays, not earlier than 8. This year the correct calling costume Is a handsome cloth, silk or velvet dress with a separate coat, but the woman who has for street wear only a fine tail- ored suit with a -matching or separate bloiiHe or an wear tills. The hat should be dressy. Furs add to the elegance of the costume, and line gloves, either In pure white or delicate mode, are obllg ln case of stormv weather, a raincoat. overshoes 'and umbrella may he left in the ball. Otherwise a guest retains wraps and veils, merely opening her fura as a precaution against cold. Men vear frock coat, striped trousers fancy waistcoat, high sltk hat and light turn a few minutes to the fire. Heat gloves. Punctilious men on making their boiling point, but do not allow to hoi 1. nrst formal call carry hat, stick and Add a little cream. gloves Into the parlor. Others less partic- Serve Rt once. Tomato Sauce for Baked l-Jjijrplant. I V FRANCES MORG AN. One-half can tomatoep. Vr tcaspoonful gait. tablcsDOonful butter. 1 teasnoonful sugar. l-i-1 these eook 20 minutes. Mijc 1 teaspoon cornstarch with a little water, and add to tomatoes. , Cook 2 minutes. Strain through a sieve. Mix the yolk or 1 egg in a saucepan with 1 t a blespoo n cold water. Add tomatoes, stirriirg constantly, Rc- W mm neckwear, and the revivu I ot" the shirt waist buttoning In the front almoxt pre- suppii.ses' sonw sort of era vat. For wear with the tailored suit there is a new conceit. t'ui a collar from struiin lmen or pitiue, with a decided lip under tii'1 t li in and the collar risins and littin;' nlmost to tlic Imir hi tlip ba.'k. KiIko with a very narrow li.v- la.-e stitil.cd on iliit, wiiliout any funnel, . that it will hold starch like the collar. Button it in the baek to the shlrtwulst at the bottom, and at the top fa ten with a small gold bar. Finish it with a lie of softest linen or lawn, laid in folds around the neck, and tied in the front in ix short, natty cravat. MaKe a turnover Collar of piiie. with scalloped edKrs and a tiny dot or ptar embroidered in each scallop. Attach this to . well -11 1 ted st ra iplit t-vl 1 ;i r ..f eoi ti ll lou i mis It u. wlni-li will hold! starch. Hide this mitler-collar with a hroad Roman ribbon tied in the front In a four-ln - h ii nd. To match this collnr. make turn hack t-uffs tt pi ue In a line vurd, embrohierin ihTp .vallopril rflgr?, I ( you have a seraji of exquisite linen. lawn or net. tn Ice. n u ohUnK, nay nine 1 ic-hfH Ion, and six or -x-oi Inches wide. Hemstitch I he sides, and on the bottom fiisloh somo lace of an open- work pattern. su-h ns nurrow Alencon. Jtw lny thin In Hue Hide ijIom.Ii anl lliiiHli tt at the top with a double strip urrt I a m of cloili nr batiil 'iiiioiit two or two and half Inches ' wide. Make In this a. utile of tiny button holes, ii nd your l-;tted ta"i - finished. Next tnke some onniKMi 1 1 ii'-n nr muslin iiiuj mmte $ stuig-litt hie clerical collar wliich closer i ii Iho 1 ihcVs . i On the fi'imt of thi. about lialt' an itn-li front the uppor edge, at- i.nii buttons to (natch the lioka Jn your hloaU'd lab. Fasten a rlblion to match . your blouse around" this high col lar, hiding it com pletely. and 1) old I tig the stofk wrong side up. bring the lib- lion under the chin. Tie It In a short butterfly bow. whose ends stand out stiffly on either side. This gives the 11' u ted stock effect worn by ch urchmen a rtMiuiry mko. IMtnie is used in making many of the. new i m ported collars, and a pli-1 can ninniifiictnro these very nicely at homo if she will rip up an o!tl turnover collar for a p;utt?rn. Use muslin next to the neck, and for i he turnover hair select a pit l ue with a fine cord, and instead of uniHhfni; tlie collar plain, edprc It with l:wn, honistiti'liPd in very fine knife pleat ins. or. tf you have a flutincr ma chine, the lawn ca n be lln t-d. This la wn plcatiiu; should not be move than half an iiuMi when finished. ' The fluting l hIso. seen in del lea te colorings, pa le pink, pulo blue, yellow. et-. One of the jauntiest of the new ties for Wf-ar with stiff collars such as df- scribed shove is a butterfly tie of .ol"t cst China hi lie. the endM showing each t h i-ee triangles of the silk in th ree si:ri(ln", ol' the same color. Strap? of boSinet and lace are m;?de into fascin ating little eravn t - to wear with thrne linen turnover crillars. The knot In the (filter is drawn my tiRliily, itud tl ends stand out like triangular butterfly whiRs cdKcd with lace. The bows are iilmost iih Iiiiik as tli r-iiil. but the en tire rravai docs not measure' more than tliii'O or lluve kiiJ a half inches across. A shaped collar fitted aroiind the neck wit h nni ny ti-u uis had t he appearance of gores, each gore behiK finished with an nnhioiiiiral star. The material used was a fine lawn or linen, with mercer ized linen flux. Ileep cuffH with point enulijst In Mu r. and one lonjc point like a tiih running up to fasten un the out- sliln of the sleeve with a dainty safety Iin. in., t.'t.o.l tlii collur. -A .riaint t-..ll;tr r..r tli i.-l with tha ions iH-ck is this: .Make a mteU clerical collar, oiiciilni? In tlm back, from a lino uuallty of linen lawn. Attach to this on either Hide wIukm or jpe of the lawn, measuring about 10 inches from back t to front, and about four lnclio in deptli. Kdse this with Valenciennes Imit. anil you hav the efTect of hre- t"Mes attached to the collar instead of Hit shoulder scam. In (ho front finish with a Jabot of the linen lawn, edsred with Val.. nd pleated to alve the effect of a lung iKtrnivv point. Incidentally, white silk Milne n now worn t;nd'r t hese i-ollara to keep them "tlfT-liiokitiK nround the nock. It Is ;.. bis Improvement oxer the bulling, which wn? forever hrfaRln? liirongli Its silk easlnes ami scratchlnpr the neck. Bit of Green Indoors T HBRK is great virtue in a bit or liv, ing green In the family slttina room Iti Winter time Home little jrrowlnx plant thai will wrve to niiKicst Spring d Minsiniif even wl: lie tlie snow Ik's fleei) on the -ii-ounil and the bitter northeast-i-rs im re iilnwifiK. "XV" ln-re f ore thf woman who i- wlMt. no les-s than sbe who is utm. Dlj" i'.lii'lic. Will lake sniiie thought fur the subject of -olJ weather hmi.se plants. rrlmn and ft-rns n i- the r !: I decuia tlve platil! Tor indoor cultivation. and illicit tiifj- arc smcniiiy cDiisiucrcil somewhat difficult to care for. the suppo sition in nt hoi u out hy tho fuota. populii r error, wliith, however, caunost tha iintimrij- oeaii) or niiinv ol these plants is the Idea that they must be kept away from direct linht. Nr-iilier palmf nor ff?rim r-t ulre a k i cut deu 1 ot" sunllfh t, it ia true, though the former uVuian-J mote than the hit tor: but t!i beauty of boili will be cry shortlived if they are kept pcritist'-ntiy m uiooni. When intended for table decoration, therefore, they should he iilaeed on th table only when actually needed . at Other tliiien liclnc kept near a window. They should not be exposed to sudden draughts of cold air. but on the other hand.' they will not thrive in a close, ill-ventilated Kerns require plnty of water and a rich. soil, It is a good plan to cover the lop soil with moss, as this prevents too rapid evH"ori"tlim of mofnturoi The pi a tits thrive best when watered by absorption tliroiijh the roots. This U done by rmttlnpr fresh water every day Into the nau.-er in which the pot stands. A laily shower with a line sprinkler or air atomizer in also a necessity, a few bits of ehnrcoal placed in the bottom nf the pot will lnurc proper drainatce and prevent the sul) from boeoinlng stale. Palms, unlike frns, MiouUl not tc kjt always damp. In fact, they need not b watered every day. utiles tlie top hoII appc-Rrti dry. They thrive bent itt a. sandy noil, through witirh moisture will .percolate readily. Sprinkling tho loaves i apt to cattle brown patches, but they jire Rreatly f rc h ciol nnd Invlgorutod by fiponging with milk about once a week, for fold Turkey or CliUikcn. t;m the meat In small pieces, free fron fat and grliiic, for one Quart iw me following: sauce: Tli ree teawpoon fitly out t er. 1 heaplnfr tahlespoon Hour, rub to a smooth cream, 1 nip roup stuck. J teaspoon lemon Juice, the yolks of 4 eRf?. weii beaten, salt, pep per, and add a little eream or milk. Heat the butter and flour in a frying- pan until very hot, then add lemon juico, then the cream sono stock. Boil up once. then tir In the meat. Add t he beaten n,K-s- Uook one minute and serve on hot platter, with rice around the tlish.
