47
C0RRE5P0ND.ENC
E-
GHOOL OP.: STYLE AND
AUTV
THE SU1A1 : .OKWiOSIAS. FOKTLAM). JAM'AKl 13. ltU7.
BE
Revival of 1830
Lines in Spring
vW Frocks
Tl IKRIO can be no nuestion about a
revival of the drooping lSIJO linrM
In tlie nrar fuinrc. Long Shoul
ders, sonii-f lowing sleeves, soft, caoe-
II ko efforts ami other IS:iO KiifCiCcstlons
ir Klinwn in the designs for early
SpriiiR frocks. Tlic tirooplnfj effect of
thft Kmpire scarf, the bretelle and other
feat tires of t lie "Win t r gowns will te
emphasized in the Spring, and the lat
est evening? cloaks have scarcely a
tHl Io rod line, hrlnft draped on almost
c-IhshIi; lines with flowing folds.
There are somo iotU-iablo examples
n wrars which seem to le cut 1 1 from
one piocc of cloth. a. n t In ni any s ir w rt
Jackets and blouses It is hard to tin J
a seam dividing the waist pieces from
T Jit- uleevc.
Mntcrlals.
The lionift ili'Mnnuikor who iklm to
u r e drooping lines must look first to
li -- rabrk-. Thin rnuft - tyf th rioflo.it
texture, without stiffening- or body. For
this vmw nm ov Pititton velvet ia
better than t lie old reliable Lyons vel
vet. C'rrpo de chine. Jlliert v statin and
ctiicr soft flnislnHi latnlw, arc to be
preferred to the stiffer satins and bro-
n I k. A sort il l lnvor Ihi-.- wt II d roojf
hftter than a hfvy pat tern or a net
vnicit iioiua nui'ili tlrrsslnfl,
Iirrc 1 ruopi iifr nes .K rc Seen.
The Empire skirt and t li - Prlnuc?.-
hoth siiKgcst 'wig, flowing linos, for it
properly niado. they give the woman
i -i K M t .i( I h li K ' t sompthlnK classic in
their rol.is. I m ii h neither or tliese
styles ran bo afforded, nor arc they ue-
comlnjr to the average woman, tlio
droopinpr effect must lie obtained in the
Upper part of the ft n r ttj unt throiiKh
sleeves, rapes, yokes. Jackets, etc. The
length of the shoulder ream will po far
to siiKKest 1roopinjr lines, and ft, capo
like attarhmont wh l-h runs from t ho
t-ollar over the shoulders like a. bretelle
will do even more,
To Secure Drooping Linos.
The i M ust rat ion wli leh accompanies
this article, shows the value of sleevfi
lines. The material chosen is a. black
ami white Krenad i ne to be mndo over
white ni Ik for a blouse Urcaa. The
hlouso Is of white lace. Tucked chiffon
mlfrht be substituted. The over-blouse
Is of striped grenadine laid in fine
pleats, and the" arm's eye Is hidden un-
dor these pleats, which extend at least
six Inches over the sleeves of the lace
Mousr. Tills slvn ii rj exuberated
Klioulder lengrth and arm s eye. The
same effect t:an lie obtained by the homo
dressmaker in the popular skeleton
waist, if slio uses a deep brutelle com -poxed
of three strips with a triangular
finish on cacli, the central strip being
the longest.
The deep yoke which . is a marked
fi-ature of the Nprinfc tl o use- wl II elon
Kate tlie shoulder line. l'or Instance,
ft very pretty blouse of point d'esprit
required two yards (at 69 cnts a yard),
a bolt of CIct m an Vulrnclf nnes cdRin n.
one of insertion and much ingenuity on
the pun of the sower. The point d'es-
prlt was made Into a very simple elbow
J sleeve blouse, with a yoke and collar
fof Insertion. . Across tlie front of tlie
'blouso lit the bust line were run by
band half a doxen fine half-inch tucks.
t Tlie sleeves were tui ked In the same
(way. save that the tucks were arranged
i in the form of scallop?, or semi-circles.
The yoke of Insertion was also laid in
the form of scallop!. and over the
shoulders were epaulets running from
; the collar down over the sleeves, made
of insertion edged with Val. The
sleeves were finished, with a shaped
ruffle of Insertion edgrA -with Val.
A v?ry stylish long shouldered effect
for an elderly woman was obtained
thus: A blouse of liberty taffetas In a
rich shade of golden brown was tucked
ncross tlie shoulders and down the front
to a point just above tlie bust line.
where tlie tucking; opened out full and
was erathereil in HKitln at the waist
line, Instead of ft yoKe tliia Mouse was
finished with a very deep collar made
of peril net. striped downward and out
with narrow Vi-lvi't rlbhon matching
tlie golden Drown of the silk, Tilt! col
lar vrr flnlnliocl tn tlie form of seven
n large SH. Gaul rose shading from
villi e through various yellows to a
prolde n brown. Tin lifgn "o 1 1 at was of
tine net. MLrlpiMl -w 1th n.'irrn w velvet rf b-
hon. The elbow sleeves were finished
With Cliffs of the net anil velvet rlUjona.
1 ii t the graceful drooping lines were
htalned til rough thin deep 1 ;i . - collar.
ro of w hose seal lops ran far down
mc correct
1
t
over the arm's m
Another beautiful rullar which fin
i ri d t Iouhi' of Ho est lia ndkerchl e C
M
ulai- leave tlieir list and stiolc In the
hall, and have the right hand unKloved.
Evening clothes, or a tuxedo coat with
white waistcoat and black trousers, are
worn for evening: calls.
Women must stop not less than 13 min-
utff In nmlciiid formal calls. Men re
main from 15 minutes to ttiree-tniarters of"
an hour, and an evening call Is seldom
shorter than the last-named time.
Who Calls IMrtJt?.
Newcomers in the town or neighborhood
aiv.1 brides wait to be called upon. The
unmarried woman call; first on the mar
ried- woman if both have been out ot
town. If two women have been out of
town, ami one during that time was en-
tertalned by the other, on theif return to
town tlie Ruent must raako the first call
on the hostess.
All of these calls should be made as
soon as possible, and not allowed to run
for months, or even weeks.
Duly Callto.
If you bare been entertained at a din
ner. a breakfast, a liinchoon r musioalf
or a ba 11 a call must be made within a
fortnight' after the date of entertain-
mcnt. Thlf rule holds good for men and
women both, even If the invitation was
dec-lined.
TC vou have served as bridesmaid., 1
her or in any other capacity at a
oddinfr. vou muJt call uMn the bride's
mother within a fortiilKbt after the w''i-
djiig, . and upon the bride directly after
she- returns front her nodding joiirnoy.
Ci ::etK Invited only to a church ceye-
mon v are not ex pectcd I pn - 1 1 1 '-si- . -; 1 1 l.t.
taut anv one invited to a houwe wed dins
or tlie reception following' tlie cliurcii
ceremony must call on both motber and
bride.
1 r one of yur friends hi vt ten you t
call on nn out-tr-iown j?npi ninKr tnc
call v.-ithin a week after tlie kucmI's ar
rival If lier Btv is to be pruUinanl. o
wlthln a row days if ft ts to be a brier
visit.
When there has ken a death. In a fam-
ily with whose members yon sire ac
quainted, you must call Immediately and
leave your cards, with a message of sym-
pathy written across them. Then at any
time between ten days and three weeks
after the funeral ym nu:st call and ex
press brief! v your aynipaljiy.
Do not Tccl oended if you are not re-
1 reived atJiis time. It is tho privilege of
i grief, but your call must be made.
Neck
wear
Suggestions
A
ush
S a sort of reaction after several
aon.s of beru ffled Mous, the
netkwear for tills Winter and
early importations for spring wear shotv
a decided loaning toward stlfT tailored'
effects. This is even true of the em-
broklerrd and lace ciieniiettv'? nr yokes
inserted into Rinvns and ricli fabrics.
For Insliince. an imported own of
h Iff on velvet had cuffs and chemisette
not of soft frilly lace, hut of linost linen.
hand-embroidered in an open-work, lace
like pattern, quite devoid of fancy ed Rea.
Aftr two years of attaclied collars
matrhing tw blnua. we have returned
to the linen collar. beautiful, to be
,ire. with embroidery and openwork, but
nevertheless suggesting the still neeK-
wea$ of our fathers and brothers. The
now cutaway coats demand thin wtilT
NEW WAYS TO
EARN MONEY
My Cjnlbin Wrorr Aldet.
frmlient loternatltinl Snn-
Hlilnc Society; ut!icr Wonieu'Ji
Wnyn of KnrulnK Money.
HEN one who. lias hart every com
fort alf her life suddenly finds her
self In a position where she mut either
earn her way or livy off someone else-
the first question she ask herself Is.
" " hat can I do?'
The Usual ?:quf piiicii .
.Genorally she hap had the Irreadlar edu
cation that is Lvii the average Rirl. She
ean china pain t "(a little" : draw en oust'
to Milt her frlfnUPfwlth menu cards, name
cart's. Christmas cards, e.tr.
lay - i lltt
She can play "a little." jceuerMlly from
memory, becausej she has forgotu-n how
to' read her nute?( She ran sew "a little."
but is not even A finished mender.
She d - not Want to do hou.sework. or
act as cliambermald,
duett not know
l.ncn wa's mawJe in seven sections, with
deep points, eacn ee 1 1 on embroidered
with a single rose, and the points out-
llui'd with lace. The Dutnts ot the col
lar extended at least four inches over
the .rnV eye. and the front of It was
nntuhed with a jabot. .
sometimes tlie trimming: is so ar-
ranged as to irlve tlie effet of a yoke.
F-" i- InBtanre. over a hlousf or tine net
and lace there was hunt? a skeleton or
brmiie finish of ;iiK which was most
effective. This started in the front just
bolow tlie bu.-t line. rn ovei- tlie shoul-d-r
and tt o w ii Klie uleevea. and 1 1 1 o
across tlie back, g;tviu bretelles over
the nhoulJera and re vera or lapels outlining-
the yoke lck and front. This
sk'.'"tiin was of silk, tlnlHhcd with two
bands, one at the top and one at the
liottom Pilgd. Thosf lands
bretetles hung down in two points
not unlike the sliape of the Oreek key
pattern. In the front this skeleton was
apparently held In place by rosettes ot
orange velvet.
On one of tlie ne w model for Spring
voile and lace are combined in a natty
Jacket. The under sleeves are of lace,
with cuffs of the voile. A short cape
like jacket Is laid In ploats from the
shoulders to a point Just below the bust
line, where it meets a high girdle. it
is outlined on tlie lower edjre with vel
vet of n. deeper nhad, and Just over tlie
Mtioulder a --ape of -v-flvet Is set in to
fall down four inches below ttie arm's
eye. Coming: from under this cape or
epa ulet is a second sleeve -cape ot ac
cordion pleated voilt-.
If early all tlie JSprinr sleeves suggest
epaulots. this being one of the tricks
wear is eat he red in Quite full at the
waist line. augRestlns a full blouse, but
over tills is laid deep lapels drawn tight
over the shoulders to point three
Inches brloM- the arm's eye. and with
an epaulet that conies aimoMt to tlie el'
how over a full pulled sleeve nt tlie
cloth. This epaulet " ts trimmed with
buttons, but It is irot detached from Llie
lapel.
A smart little street suit of checked
has
voile
to
bloused Kton Jacket open
i the f -o t to display a yoke iv tt d
i- of beax-y lac-. Th- Jweket seems
parate on the siioulflerfi tor a dis
tance of three Inches, and the lace from
the e (tllar and yoke runs down over the
hull Klfin stralslH down -.tie le-ve to
the elbow. The sleeve pieces are shirred
into the strip of laee and each one la
Tonics; Mow to Use Them
T
HE efficacy of a tonic lies not so I
much in Its Incrcdienta n in h 1
method of nnnllr-n t ion eimin.tnlv
known a .1 scalp mMs.Mse. tn fact, scien
tific massage without a tonic will prevent
tlC falling out of hair and cure many of
the nc-h lj ailments which retard the
arowth of hair and make it dead and
"Ww rall1f'- man flossy and rich In
color.
Correct Method or !-ic- lp Massage.
Tlie, object ot all scalp massage is to
keep the scalp from becoming adherent
to tlie bone underneat h. This is done
lor two reasons Urst. to keep the SCdlp
perfectly flexible on Its sumwtlng frame.
work, and second, to increase the circu
it Hon In the veins which feed the hair
roots.
The massage movement, which loosens
the scalp from fhe bone, is as follow:
lt-Kinnnlr at, the center of the top of the
ficnlp. with the forefingers of both hands
niiikr it circular motion with thp tips
of tho llncors. pressing hiud on the down-
.-.i curve mid Ilfclitlv on the upward
fompletiun or the clr.-le. Continue tills
movement over the entire front surface
of tlic sc:il. Wine fuirp to come quite
down to the Juncture between scalp and
lore h end.
To niassHfie thf bftck of (he bead th
tll Of the foiefmgo.rs are placed at the
back of the nee 1c where the hair begins,
and t same i-lrcular in otlon. with heavy
u nd liKhl pressure on upward and down-
wfl curves Is employed over the entire
back portion of the scalp. These simple
niHflMag exei-cifen prnctloed five or ten
minutes each niaht before retiring and
pltcr the hair has teen loosened ana
allowed to fall over tho shoulders, -will
in t he course of three weeks or a month
dim ul ate the roots and frreatly Increase
tlie life and beauty ot the hair itself.
Whore tho hair Is dry and difficult to
keep In shape this massage should be
done once a week with olive oil. ap-
plying it simply by tlijjplng the lingers
In the oil before beginning the rubbrnff.
The hair should be shampooed tho lol-
oily pow
IrtHtead of
lowing day. If the hair Is
dorcd borax can be rubbed in
the olive oil.
ror a dry scalp use this cream when
massaging: "White vaseline-. 3 ounces:
castor oil. 1 ounces; ical 1 1- acid. li
drams : oil of lavender. SO drops. ISfther
when employed in connection with mas-
3 Re, will stimulate tbe growth of the
Vhen the hair is falling out after Ill
ness try this tonic: Tlncturft of can-
tharldes. 1 ounce: rectified spirits. 2 pints:
sublimated sulphur. 1 ounce; glycerine. S
ounces. After massaging the scalp apply
pure olive U or white vaseline alone.
it tifthtly. The split ends ail) then stand
up. and you can clip them off with m 1 arp
Hciiart or singe tlir-m off with a lighted
paper. KATHERINK MORTON.
I'ses for Old t'nrierwca r.
"Pieces of old woolen underwear
this lotion to the spots where the hair is
thinning and allow It to dry In. When
the hair Is turning prematurely gray try
this lotion : Terebene, 1 dram ; borax, 1
dram; sulphur, 1 dram; lavender water,
6 ounces.
After niassaj
this lotion: J
ounces; borax,
6 ounces.
After massaging an oily scalp apply
this lotion: Bicarbonate of soda. I1
'4 ounce; cologne water,
2 ounces: rectified spirits. 1 ounce: tinc
ture of coehineal. ounce: distilled
water, 16 ounces. This can toe used either
In connection with shampooing or mas
sadinir. .
Another excellent tonic for very oily
hlr which mav- be ued nisrhtly in , con
nection with massage, is tills: Tincture
of cnntharluVs (aleholld 1 ounce! spll'-
Its of rosemary. IV ounces: clycerine.
1 ounces, aromatic vinegar. ounces ;
rose water, 3 ounces.
Brushing the hair. It is now Tecognlzcfl,
Is not to stimulate the scalp, but to give
luster to the hair proper. Avoid a wire
or coarse "bristle brush and do not drag
on the hair, Expert hairdressers Hold a
strand of hair close to the scalr with one
hand and brush the long lock with the
other. Their object Is merely to make
the hair glossy, The scalp is stimulated
by massage.
When the hair is SDlit nt the ends It
must be either clipped or Hinged. Sep
arate It Into strand or locks and twist
be put to so many practical tuos that
the housewife can ill afTord to throw
In cutting the garment up first re-
'move, any pearl buttons that may be
on It. and put them- into the button
bag. The arms and legs. i f out into
eiaht-lncli lengths, stuffed with odd bits
and sewn up at the ends, maKe excellent
polishers for hardwood floors. .
Pieces that cannot be used for any
thing else make good washcloths, iron
holder?, pot Holders for use in cooking
and cloths for cleaning brass and sil
verware. niacurded gauase and lisle underwear
may be utilised Tor Gust cloths, for
which purpose It is far superior to any
new v material. Old silk underwear is
especially convenient for ducting pianos
and highly pons net J furniture.
good form irsr
CALLING
Before cutting up underwear of any
rrt it Is well to remember that In case
f Illness old undergarments are always
be preferred to new; also that many
more changes are reiiuirod than In
health.
It Is a
on hand
good plan, therefore, to have
supply of such garments,
neatly ciarnea or patched, Tor use m
just such an emersency. In most fam
ines there is enough underwear discarded-
every year to provide for these
contingencies and still have a quantity
left over for household purposes.
Apple I . t cl I ii
BY FRANCES MORGAN'.
Hrtlf A cupful of Indian meal, half a
cupful of molasses. 1 Quart milk, 1 tea
spoon salt, 2 teas poo nf uls butter. 1 pint
pared and quartered apples, quarter tea-
spoonful gl nicer, same of nutmeg.
Put milk in double boiler. When tt
'bolls stir in the meal. CooK half an
hour, stirring often. Add molasses, but-
pour la mix
BaKe slowly three hours.
A ter. seasoning and apples.
Flutter deep baking dish ;
ture
TH R wel I -bred xvomn n is more than
Pcii'tieuhir, in the i.iutlr of rulls
calls of " common courtesy, dinner
r-: I'm. calls of condolence or of congra tu-
lotion. For tbe woman of few social
obligations, there is absolutely no excuse
for Ignoring 1tie few rules to he - ob
served in calling-. - Only the woman whose
social life is one mad round of entertain
ments is justified in making; her cards
serve calling: doty without, her presence.
Calling Hours,
In a largre city women call" between
tlie hours of 3 and half-past 5 in v the
afternoon. -
If the woman on whom you Intend to
always
Jn smaller towns,
hod to do washing and ironing even if
she were strong:- enough, whifh she and
everybody elxe thinks she is not.
-X W oiua.il-.
In just such a position a woman, now
successf u 1 in hci line ot" work. once
found hersel f. When her husband, who
was a minister, died, nlie realized tliiit
she rimst do something to help maintain
the faintly left to her t-aie.
She ronlU chlrui-pninl. ii.i.l she di.l. Slue
knew enough to make pretty menu cards,
and she sold tlieni until all 1km- friends
were s.ipnlied. When orders for chinn
Kftve out and tlie income wws small, work
OS hard as slic might, she could not maKe
ends meet. The market was overstocked
with Just the things she rould do.
' .-X iend'8 Idea.
Finally, a friend of hers went to Vienna
and. bearing her in mind, looked ubuut
for some new ways iT muktoK money,
that she might carry buck something
that would help the wage-earner in this
new step she hatl taken in life. The most
expensive kind of fancy ortlcles she found
to be called the aniltiue-embosscd leather-
worK, and everybody was paying lahu-
Ions prices for it.
-That If The thing.-- he s Id. So. fol
lowing up one" piece of -work she discover-
ed where it was made, anU offered tu
pay to learn how to hand -tool and eni-
bosS. etc.
When she cume back to New York she
taught this art to her friend, and since
the (list OTuen wro given slie has haJ
more than she eould fill. The work is
done m the -v-erv best Ftiislii leather,
that seems to be the only leather that
mil take tnc iiandiooiiiis ami an uroi)-
erly under the chemical process through
which It must so for eoloringn.
So far aw known he Is the on ly worn
on this side of the water who doe? this
antique embossed work, and reproduces
vamptc; pureliasod in Vienna tlnit canr
lc- I in proved upon even ly the or licit
designers. '
How Perse vera nee Succeeded.
S?tie tomplotcd 'a few ulecew and took
them from art store to a rt st ore offering;
the in for sale. The smaller stores did not
know of the process, .and felt that it
would be utise fe to Introduce Niich a n
thing. The larger . stores recognized the
beauiifyl worK, but doubted the met that
it was done In this oountr.
' V will go to every store In the city
but what 1 will find a place Cor my
goods," she said. "The world wants good
thlngB. itntoue things, and Is wllline to
I". ii - I will keen on until I strike a sale."
(-' 1 1 1 H 1 1 an order was K i 1' i'O tn the
Brooklyn Arts and, era its.
This was followed hy another order
and another, every piece going out bel:
Its own advertising agent to such an
tent that she today is unable io satisfy
the demand of the public for these pretty
thines.
" "Xcvrr give up. Is her motto. Tt was
her pel-severance in placing tlie work that
gave tills little woman success. There
are many young women today who know
how to make things that would sell, but
fhey have no push, no confidence fn them-
selves, nor in the work that they do.
Having a good article to sell is only half
the business. Putting It on the market
is quite as important.
call lias an afternoon at home,
select that day for your call.
thfi suhnrh and
country colonies, calling ia permissible
both afternoon and evening, but even a
suburbanite does not like to be caught
unawares in the "morning.
Men may call Sunday afternoons and
evenings: In the evening, not. earlier than
half-past 7; on Sundays, not earlier
than 8.
This year the correct calling costume
Is a handsome cloth, silk or velvet dress
with a separate coat, but the woman
who has for street wear only a fine tail-
ored suit with a -matching or separate
bloiiHe or an wear tills. The hat should
be dressy. Furs add to the elegance of
the costume, and line gloves, either In
pure white or delicate mode, are obllg
ln case of stormv weather, a raincoat.
overshoes 'and umbrella may he left in
the ball. Otherwise a guest retains
wraps and veils, merely opening her fura
as a precaution against cold.
Men vear frock coat, striped trousers
fancy waistcoat, high sltk hat and light turn a few minutes to the fire. Heat
gloves. Punctilious men on making their boiling point, but do not allow to hoi 1.
nrst formal call carry hat, stick and Add a little cream.
gloves Into the parlor. Others less partic- Serve Rt once.
Tomato Sauce for Baked l-Jjijrplant.
I V FRANCES MORG AN.
One-half can tomatoep. Vr tcaspoonful
gait. tablcsDOonful butter. 1 teasnoonful
sugar.
l-i-1 these eook 20 minutes.
Mijc 1 teaspoon cornstarch with a little
water, and add to tomatoes. ,
Cook 2 minutes. Strain through a sieve.
Mix the yolk or 1 egg in a saucepan with
1 t a blespoo n cold water.
Add tomatoes, stirriirg constantly, Rc-
W
mm
neckwear, and the revivu I ot" the shirt
waist buttoning In the front almoxt pre-
suppii.ses' sonw sort of era vat.
For wear with the tailored suit there is
a new conceit. t'ui a collar from struiin
lmen or pitiue, with a decided lip under
tii'1 t li in and the collar risins and littin;'
nlmost to tlic Imir hi tlip ba.'k. KiIko
with a very narrow li.v- la.-e
stitil.cd on iliit, wiiliout any funnel, .
that it will hold starch like the collar.
Button it in the baek to the shlrtwulst
at the bottom, and at the top fa ten with
a small gold bar. Finish it with a lie
of softest linen or lawn, laid in folds
around the neck, and tied in the front in
ix short, natty cravat.
MaKe a turnover Collar of piiie. with
scalloped edKrs and a tiny dot or ptar
embroidered in each scallop. Attach this
to . well -11 1 ted st ra iplit t-vl 1 ;i r ..f eoi ti
ll lou i mis It u. wlni-li will hold! starch.
Hide this mitler-collar with a hroad
Roman ribbon tied in the front In a
four-ln - h ii nd. To match this collnr. make
turn hack t-uffs tt pi ue In a line vurd,
embrohierin ihTp .vallopril rflgr?,
I ( you have a seraji of exquisite linen.
lawn or net. tn Ice. n u ohUnK, nay nine
1 ic-hfH Ion, and six or -x-oi Inches
wide. Hemstitch I he sides, and on the
bottom fiisloh somo lace of an open-
work pattern. su-h ns nurrow Alencon.
Jtw lny thin In Hue Hide ijIom.Ii anl
lliiiHli tt at the top with a double strip
urrt
I a m
of cloili nr batiil 'iiiioiit two or two and
half Inches ' wide. Make In this a.
utile of tiny button holes, ii nd your
l-;tted ta"i - finished. Next tnke some
onniKMi 1 1 ii'-n nr muslin iiiuj mmte $
stuig-litt hie clerical collar wliich closer
i ii Iho 1 ihcVs . i On the fi'imt of thi. about
lialt' an itn-li front the uppor edge, at-
i.nii buttons to (natch the lioka Jn
your hloaU'd lab. Fasten a rlblion to
match . your blouse around" this high col
lar, hiding it com pletely. and 1) old I tig
the stofk wrong side up. bring the lib-
lion under the chin. Tie It In a short
butterfly bow. whose ends stand out
stiffly on either side. This gives the
11' u ted stock effect worn by ch urchmen
a rtMiuiry mko.
IMtnie is used in making many of the.
new i m ported collars, and a pli-1 can
ninniifiictnro these very nicely at homo
if she will rip up an o!tl turnover collar
for a p;utt?rn. Use muslin next to the
neck, and for i he turnover hair select a
pit l ue with a fine cord, and instead of
uniHhfni; tlie collar plain, edprc It with
l:wn, honistiti'liPd in very fine knife
pleat ins. or. tf you have a flutincr ma
chine, the lawn ca n be lln t-d. This la wn
plcatiiu; should not be move than half an
iiuMi when finished. ' The fluting l hIso.
seen in del lea te colorings, pa le pink, pulo
blue, yellow. et-.
One of the jauntiest of the new ties
for Wf-ar with stiff collars such as df-
scribed shove is a butterfly tie of .ol"t
cst China hi lie. the endM showing each
t h i-ee triangles of the silk in th ree
si:ri(ln", ol' the same color. Strap? of
boSinet and lace are m;?de into fascin
ating little eravn t - to wear with thrne
linen turnover crillars. The knot In the
(filter is drawn my tiRliily, itud tl
ends stand out like triangular butterfly
whiRs cdKcd with lace. The bows are
iilmost iih Iiiiik as tli r-iiil. but the en
tire rravai docs not measure' more than
tliii'O or lluve kiiJ a half inches across.
A shaped collar fitted aroiind the neck
wit h nni ny ti-u uis had t he appearance
of gores, each gore behiK finished with
an nnhioiiiiral star. The material used
was a fine lawn or linen, with mercer
ized linen flux. Ileep cuffH with point
enulijst In Mu r. and one lonjc point like
a tiih running up to fasten un the out-
sliln of the sleeve with a dainty safety
Iin. in., t.'t.o.l tlii collur.
-A .riaint t-..ll;tr r..r tli i.-l with tha
ions iH-ck is this: .Make a mteU clerical
collar, oiiciilni? In tlm back, from a lino
uuallty of linen lawn. Attach to this
on either Hide wIukm or jpe of the
lawn, measuring about 10 inches from
back t to front, and about four lnclio
in deptli. Kdse this with Valenciennes
Imit. anil you hav the efTect of hre-
t"Mes attached to the collar instead of
Hit shoulder scam. In (ho front finish
with a Jabot of the linen lawn, edsred
with Val.. nd pleated to alve the effect
of a lung iKtrnivv point.
Incidentally, white silk Milne n now
worn t;nd'r t hese i-ollara to keep them
"tlfT-liiokitiK nround the nock. It Is ;..
bis Improvement oxer the bulling, which
wn? forever hrfaRln? liirongli Its silk
easlnes ami scratchlnpr the neck.
Bit of Green Indoors
T
HBRK is great virtue in a bit or liv,
ing green In the family slttina room
Iti Winter time Home little jrrowlnx plant
thai will wrve to niiKicst Spring d
Minsiniif even wl: lie tlie snow Ik's fleei)
on the -ii-ounil and the bitter northeast-i-rs
im re iilnwifiK. "XV" ln-re f ore thf woman
who i- wlMt. no les-s than sbe who is utm.
Dlj" i'.lii'lic. Will lake sniiie thought fur
the subject of -olJ weather hmi.se plants.
rrlmn and ft-rns n i- the r !: I decuia
tlve platil! Tor indoor cultivation. and
illicit tiifj- arc smcniiiy cDiisiucrcil
somewhat difficult to care for. the suppo
sition in nt hoi u out hy tho fuota.
populii r error, wliith, however, caunost tha
iintimrij- oeaii) or niiinv ol these plants
is the Idea that they must be kept away
from direct linht. Nr-iilier palmf nor
ff?rim r-t ulre a k i cut deu 1 ot" sunllfh t, it
ia true, though the former uVuian-J mote
than the hit tor: but t!i beauty of boili
will be cry shortlived if they are kept
pcritist'-ntiy m uiooni.
When intended for table decoration,
therefore, they should he iilaeed on th
table only when actually needed . at Other
tliiien liclnc kept near a window. They
should not be exposed to sudden draughts
of cold air. but on the other hand.' they
will not thrive in a close, ill-ventilated
Kerns require plnty of water and a rich.
soil, It is a good plan to cover the lop
soil with moss, as this prevents too rapid
evH"ori"tlim of mofnturoi
The pi a tits thrive best when watered by
absorption tliroiijh the roots. This U
done by rmttlnpr fresh water every day
Into the nau.-er in which the pot stands.
A laily shower with a line sprinkler or
air atomizer in also a necessity, a few
bits of ehnrcoal placed in the bottom nf
the pot will lnurc proper drainatce and
prevent the sul) from boeoinlng stale.
Palms, unlike frns, MiouUl not tc kjt
always damp. In fact, they need not b
watered every day. utiles tlie top hoII
appc-Rrti dry. They thrive bent itt a.
sandy noil, through witirh moisture will
.percolate readily. Sprinkling tho loaves
i apt to cattle brown patches, but they
jire Rreatly f rc h ciol nnd Invlgorutod by
fiponging with milk about once a week,
for fold Turkey or CliUikcn.
t;m the meat In small pieces, free fron
fat and grliiic, for one Quart iw me
following: sauce:
Tli ree teawpoon fitly out t er. 1 heaplnfr
tahlespoon Hour, rub to a smooth cream,
1 nip roup stuck. J teaspoon lemon Juice,
the yolks of 4 eRf?. weii beaten, salt, pep
per, and add a little eream or milk.
Heat the butter and flour in a frying-
pan until very hot, then add lemon juico,
then the cream sono stock. Boil up once.
then tir In the meat. Add t he beaten
n,K-s- Uook one minute and serve on hot
platter, with rice around the tlish.