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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 19, 1906)
32 MAZAMAS EXPLORED AN UNSOWN REGION 1 ovrim The Miiimi outing to Mount Baker, 3ust completed, was In every way a trip more truly In line with the pur poses of the club than any since that of 1839 to Mount Sahalo and Lake Che Ian. Instead of climbing some moun tain visited and ascended annually by hundreds of tourists the outing; was a Journey of exploration into a region Hot only unknown to the tourist, but little known to the TTnlted States geo logical survey. Because of this the Maramas as a club and as Individuals had an opportunity of hunting out new trails, exploring glaciers seldom visited and but little known, ascend ing uncllmbed peaks and finally reach ing th summit of Mount Baker by a new route and one declared impossi ble by men familiar with the moun tain. To accomplish this, many of the com forts of the regular outing had to be dis pensed with, but those who expect always to And an easy way to the summit should adopt that of a well-known Mazama who, when unable to accompany the party on the ascent of Mount Adams, mounted a telescope at Trout Lake, where he watched the party as they climbc. The outing also .tried' the resources of the club along new lines and developed many weak points that, now known, can be eradicated. Tbo Jlrst problem for the club to solve afrr deciding on an outing to Mount Baiter, was one of routes to the mountain talf. Three were suggested; jus from Baker Lake, one from Glacier, following the ridge west of Glacier Creek, and one up Wells Creek. The Baker Lake route re quired a new? trull that would cost $1500 and ta'j tfix weeks to build: the Glacier Creek' route, explored by Mr. Klser for the club for 11 miles, would require an equal amount of work, and the packers declared that; tiay could not pack sup piles over it when it was completed, be cause of the deep canyons and swamps. This left onlv the Wells Creek route, which was adopted after being thorough ly explored, and a trail was built to tnow line at the expense of the City of Belllngham. The party left Seattle on July 25. spent the next day as guests of the Chamber of Commerce of Belllngham, and on Au gust i took the train to Glacier and walked to the permanent camp near the head of Wells Creek. The ascent of the mountain had never been made from either the northern or eastern slopes, the ones easiest of ap proach from this camp, but several routes seemed practical. As soon aa camp was established a number of attempts were made to reach the summit, and Anally a point was reached on the northeast slope of the mountain, between the Wells freeh and the Glacier Creek glaciers, from which Mr. Sholes and Mr. Kiser thought the summit could be reached. The first week was spent In camp or in exploring the surrounding canyons and valleys in search of flowers for the botanists of the party or rocks that the amateur geologists could pound to pieces. A number of parties were taken out on the snow fields also that they might become familiar with the steep snow slopes before the climb. It was decided to attempt the ascent with the main party on August 5 and 6. The climbing party, numbering 36, moved camp to a point three miles above, on the ridge leading to the mountains, spending the night as high on the mountain aa It was possible to camp in comfort. In the light of early dawn, with their goal, the great white summit of Baker, before them, they filed out on the mountain side. Mr. Sholes was in command of the party, while Mr. Klser, with a party of four, went in the lead to guide. Clad- in rough garments of kakl or denim, the women in bloomers with faces daubed with grease paint, to prevent sunburn, and eyes hidden by ugly staring goggles, the party was grotesque in the extreme, but little thought was given to anything but the tremendous task set before them. Following the command "fall In!" the line formed and quickly swung out over the hill and onto the snow. There was little sound from the line except the chug of Alpine stocks In the snow or the sharp ring of steel on rock. Already 6000 feet above the sea the rapid pace set by the leader demanded all the breath that anyone had and conversation lagged. The Mazamas crossed the Wells gla cier, which is here a mile wide, wind ing among Its crevasses until a low gap was reached in the basaltU dga that divides the Wells and ulooler Creek glaciers. Here, at a point where a small stream ran over the rocks, the first halt was made. By this time the advance party had worked well up the ridge In an effort Ito find some way around the pinnacle that cleaves the snow near the summit. A mile up the ridge, when within 2000 feet of the summit, a halt was made for lunch. The formation of the rljge had changed from solid basalt to a loose mass of ash and broken pumice and basalt which yielded to the touch. A single step would dislodge rocks that in turn would start others until tons of earth and rock went thundering down the mountain. - Before lunch was completed a call came from the advance party for more line and a small party worked for ward up the ridge. An hour was lost in getting the line forward and Mr. Klser and two of his party had dropped down on the short line they were car rying and had worked out on the glacier fit the head of Swift Creek. As quickly as possible a line was run down the slope to the Ice field, 6J3 feet below, and the advance party increased to 13. In the meantime a way had been found up to a small crevasse that lav Immediately beneath the summit. It THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND. AUGUST 19, 1906. I 'i - 1 - was possible to Jump across this and above there appeared to be a passage across the great crevasse a hundred feet in width that opens across the en tire eastern face of Baker. It was now 4:30 o'clock, the snow was freezing, soon the whole slope would be like a sheet of Ice. and the descent very hazardous; so, with great reluctance, the ascent was postponed until the next day. Hurriedly anchoring a line across the lower crevasse, which had been jumped, the party were roped and started down the mountain on the run. In a half hour they were once more out in the sun on the snow at the head of the Wells gla cier. Here they found that the main party thart been left on the rocks, where they had taken lunch and had only Just started down the mountain. V i i .5 IV p L , With a large party so far from camp and night coming on. great haste was necessary to prevent disaster. On every dangerous elope a line was run out in advance, and, roped as they were, with Mr. Gorman In the lead, they advanced rapidly. Before darkness closed clown on the mountain they had once more crossed the Wells glacier and were on enow fields that were comparatively afe. ;::v Only two slight accidents happened in the hurried descent, one when Dr. Rus sell's alpine-stock caught and tore through her hand, cutting a deep wound In the palm, the second when an alpine stock set in the ice to anchor a life line gave way and sent two men down on the rocks, where they were cut and bruised. Advance members reached the base camp by 9:45 o'clock and the entire party were In by 11 P. M. It was determined to oend at least a small party to the summit if It were pn. pible to find any way up, and At 5:40 o'clock the next morning a picked party, led by Mr. Klser. left the bae camp, following the route by which the party had returned the night before. Crevasses that had been crossed In safety were found Impassable, and a new way found around them. At 11 A. M. they had reached the open crevasse under the pre cipitous snow 1000 feet below the summit. The crevasse had widened more than a foot where the line haa been anchored the night before, making the Jump across more difficult than ever. After crossing this crevasse, the party turned north along a shelf of snow for 200 feet, then climbed the snow slope that forms the lower side of the great cre vasse over 100 feet In width, where the snows of centuries break away from the summit cap. Loose, rotten snow and Ice blocked It in many places, and offered a most Insecure foothold. Mere shells of ice hung over caverns so deep that no bottom could be seen, and the fantastic mow bridges were as beautiful as a dream, and as useless. Mr. Kiser crossed, carrying a line, and reached the crumbling snow under the overhanging cap of the summit. A half hour was spent testing a number of routes, but they all required too much time. The sun had already set on that part of the mountain, the snows were freezing, ice water was pouring down through the snow and there was constant danger that the snows above would fall and sweep the wole mass down the mountain. Abandoning the attempt to work directly up the mountain, the picked men turned north to a point where a small crevasse broke away from the main summit cap. This overhung so much that It was neces sary to tunnel through It, rather than attempt to go over. The moment Mr. Klser got head and shoulders through the openln? he called back, "Come .on, boys, we can make It. Hurry up." "Hurry up" became the battle cry. Ev erything was freezing. The men were soaked through and through. Mr. Klser had frozen two fingers, and every one wu numbed by the cold. Working still to the northward they followed In the bottom of this crevasse until It slivered out under the great cornice that forms the northeast side of Baker. Knotting the longest line. 400 feet in length, and chopping away the overhang ing Ice. Klser rtepped out on the slope and into the sunlight. The climb was now a race against time, and to attempt 'I w rwir ,2 V SV3. 4S-IS to cut steps up the slope, which proved to be 350 feet long, was Impossible. Mr. Klser wore Ice-creepers which clung tc the rotten ice. giving a fair foothold. Blowly he worked his way upward, with the line trailing behind, an endless time" to those who mood in the shadow wait ing, slowly paying out the line that dis appeared above their heads. It must have been an eternity to the one who worked slowly, testing each foothold, knowing that after he had passed 50 feet above the Ice crevasse that, should he fall, his comrades would not be aWe to check his speed with the life line, and that he would be m-ept away thousands of feet down the mountain un til stopped In some great crevasse. When within IS feet of the top tha Ire pitched upward at a fearful angle and was frozen hard. Almost exhausted, this last few feet came near proving too much for the leader, but after ten min utes work picking steps be was up and over the slope. Hurriedly driving an Iron pin in the ice he gave the signal, and one by one the party followed. From this point the as cent was easy. At 3 o'clock the advance party was on the highest point of the mountain seen from the east as a great white triangle. Leaving the Mazama record-box on the highest point of snow the descent was begun at 4 and tha main camp reached at 11 P. M. The Commonest Carrie. Baltimore Sun. with r-AMenc a 'twere angle sweat. My neighbor of th ahaily Mtret, Who comMi in rural pac to dwell Amid Suburban's bloasom smell. Homeward a walking store moves by With realmatlon In lt eye. Anrl door to door I seem to etoo To leave his bundles from the shop. The Widow fimlth who couli! reslut? Gives him her broken amethyst To have it mended, ejd next door The Major Jonce would implore That on hie townward journer he Would bring them out a pound of tea; o on and on, from stoop to Hoop, He loopa the xenial chopping loop. A s;enlt: through experience frown. The art of carrying is hie own Four pairs of snoea, an ironing board. Six window screens, a reel of cord, A tennle racauet and a stove Armed with the majfty of Jove, He ambles like a moving van. This courteous, patient, gracious man. It often title me with amaxe To watch the wonder of his wave: How at the Widow Smith he leaves Just what she asked, and next relieves His pack at Major Jones door. With naught to make excueea for Of thla forgot or that thing loot. Or thle too much by hatf In cost. Puburbla's common carrier goee. From day to day. a fracrant roee Of patient and obliging grae. With martyrdom upon hie face; Thinking perhaps of Sunday's reet. With freedom from his burdens bleet. And dreaming on hie chest, perchance, A thousand scattered bundles dance.