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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 1, 1906)
THE SUNDAY OREGOMAN, PORTLAND, JULY 1, 1906. 43 ADMIRED IN PARIS i r . II'IT V i v A a .him 1 ii aK inii. a t a i kiw I MJTOMNBPB)ES J PARIS, June 16. (Special Correspon dence of The Sunday Oreeronlan). Costumes de voyage are just now occupying the attention of many of the great makers. '"The reason?" said one great maker. "Well, it is because of the enormous de mand. Paris is full of travelers, and. except for Americans, who have, as a rule, excellent taste, they all arrive atro ciously dressed." French -witticisms on this last point are everywhere heard, and It must be confessed that America does not always receive the bouquet. The train scarcely puffs into the station ere the stranger Is spotted, something odd, to French eyes, giving her away. Eyebrows ' lift as a fair daughter of Britain goes by with her long tread, and comment Is au dible and not always beautiful. "Re garded! Another tournure, still another Bath bun!" This gets to be funny after awhile, for directly the listener sees that England L really a country of enormous tournures anil Bath buns. Nine out of every ten Englishwomen go by with the ungainly hump at the back, and the round, smooth, net-covered wad of hair, which to Paris ian eyes, used to the cushioned and curled wonders of the coifTure of the moment, has no reason whatever for being. However, as far as the American wom an is concerned, she is soon so Parisian iaed that it is often difficult to separate her from her French sisters. Then many travelers who know the annoyances which arise in Paris from too obvious stranger hood often buy French traveling wraps in London, and so make their entree into the beautiful city without remark. With it all, Paris is full of inconsisten cies In this all important matter. Visit ors from the Provences, whose styles are renewed only every ten years, pass unre marked, while all the odd costumes of costume countries are accepted as a mat ter of course. Thus is Paris at once the most capricious and most delightful city in the whole world. To see traveling toilettes In their per fection It is first of all necessary to en counter elegant travelers n voyage. This is difficult with the native Parisian, as the smart class here is very exclusive, and private railway carriages and auto mobiles hide the traveler from common eyes. Notwithstanding, there are some de lightful confections seen entering or leav ing some one of fche various railway sta tions; and so complete Is the Parision transformation that' nobody would recog nize the wearers of these as the same persons who arrived but a little while ago. Of equal, perhaps more. Importance is to have the entree of some first-class place where these feats of cunning mil linery are turned out. In midsummer the best people give almost their entire attention to them, one well-known fai seur having achieved an enviable repu tation here through traveling toilettes alone. So to this artist of renown the writer went yesterday; the great maker, who has the manner and appearance of any elegant man of the world, begin ning: 'Who are my best customers? "Why after Parisians Americans, of course. Americans don't care what a thing costs. They have natural taste, besides admir able taste and, above everything, the slim figures necessary for chic dress." A gentle tap at the Parisian here who gets fat, alas, too soon, and once more a very amiable little sermon against the toilettes first worn by the stranger. "For dress is a science, an education, and madame comes to Paris assurement to learn." The moral of this is obvious go to Monsieur D immediately upon arrival. "To come to the toilettes them selves, in point of material, plaids It was observed was this great artist s first choice. "Plaids In every conceivable texture, you see; cheviots, homespun, laine, mo hair, silk. etc. And observe nothing eclatant knocking as you say in Eng lish, too obtrusive, too checkerboard. All medium-sized with a soft under shadow and a bias effect. That ia es sential, the bias and will you believe It? this graceful crossing Is done in the weaving. Then with plaid bnH red, brown, dove-gray or fume a touch of deeper velvet for collar, cuffs, bellv etc., and a white vest. But all of this for the coat, for there are no plaid gowns. Remember that, no plaid toilettes du tout though tiny checks Infinitesimal may appear. Chapeau, shoes, gloves, all must be in keeping. A traveling chapeau I am exploiting has a veil or chilTon cloth. This Is good for dust, harrgs gracefully by moments, hides Madame's weariness at others, and al ways enhances her beauty. "Gloves? Biarritz are . my gants, those which slip over the hand very loosely without buttons, and preferably of wash leather. Then with costumes in almost any color I advise laced boots short tops, of Russia leather, blucher fastenings, of dull red or brown. For brown shoes 'champagne' arid 'dust' are new shades." As to form for coats shown by this maker, models were countless. A species of half-fitting ragian with a cape cov ering only the shoulder and back of the coat was one exclusive design, with which, despite his flurry against plaid toilettes, went a matching skirt. Mon sieur explained that readily: "The un der blouse, you see. Is plain brown silk, and this and the white pique vest of the coat cut the ugliness all-plaid would make. Though," he smiled .deprecatingly, "the skirt was my customer's choice." With this stunning coat and skirt, the blurred brown plafd of which had the de- SEEN I SSglKfc -MX. SMART' COSTUMES IN RAILWAY. STATIONS sired bias, went an equally effective hat. The shape was a species of French sailor, very wide in brim, large and flat In crown, of brown satin straw, which an immensely long veil of white chiffon cloth trimmed entirely. One end of this veil was tied in a. huge bow at the front of the hat, and the other, spreading out widely, fell In a long square behind. "White Biarritz gloves and brown shoes and brown umbrella," said Monsieur in conclusion, "should accompany this very smart little plaid ragian cape with a wide hood for a child of 7." Another maker, renowned for riding habits and other garments of a strictly tailored cast, showed a predilection for plain cloth, covert, with invisible stripes and Kmpire cuts. One coat, openly con fessed to be made after a garment worn by Madame Jane Hading, more than sug gested the taste and style of this beauti ful actress. Cut with the effect of a little separate coat, this long garment was essentially Kmplre in essence. The coat portion, which bung loosely above the flowing skirt, was finished with three applied tucks of the material, and the three-quarter puff sleeves showing im mense fulness. Only stitching and these tiny folds upon the jacket trimmed this elegant garment, which was of pale olive cloth. A plain black satin skirt wool soft in fall and a tiny black turban with olive tulle and natural tinted peacocks were shown with it. The different shades shown every where in these graceful feathers are eter nally surprising, and as yet there is no diminution in their elegant vogue. Apropos of veils, launched by America la violette Is now the most Parisian of coquetries. There are dozens of ways of putting them on, but each seems so In dividual that no one method may be de nominated as the thing. As now worn, the veil is the ,Parisian fan the chief arrow is the coquette's quiver. Delightful things are seen in traveling underwear, which is rarely white here. Black or dust color for traveling, these exploited In soft silk, pongee and batiste of a sublime softness. Jt seems strange to see this somberly hued underwear, but everything is so exquisitely made, so daintily needleworked, that hue is no det riment. Then, when the uncertainties of unknown laundries come to be considered, it is easily understood why traveling lin gerie is not white. In Paris alone the careful and gifted blanchisseuse Is a tradition. The best laundries do up things exquisitely, but tinted handkerchief borders and delicate textiles are soon a thing of the past. Hard water and harder soaps are respon sible for this, but so complete is the cleaning method that the traveler may laugh at even bottles of ink, hair dye or what-not spilled over everything. There Is word upon the carpet that some of the traveling coats and gowns now being made presage Autumn styles. Some are plainly modifications of Spring effects, for when French makers have found a charming style they wisely con tinue it. especially for garments which are to be worn at the beginning of a season, before entirely new modes may be launched. Conspicuous among the nov elties of the moment are some closely fitting coats with, almost tight sleeves, and hip and three-quarter lengths. These are predicted for tailor gowns, whose skirts are likely to be short enough to escape the ground all round, and with a godet fullness. One little frock of this sort, wdVn by a wax manikin at a smart place, had a military trimming of black braid, gilt buttons and scarlet cloth. The vogue of all the silky handsome braids of the Summer contlmaes unabated, and gowns shown for first Autumn use al most invariably display them. Very nar row vests in some sharply contrasting color also distinguish a number of these frocks, especially those with coarse, man nish coats. Accompanying these dapper frocks', which are shown in coarsely ribbed serges, cloth, cheviot, etc., are some little turbans of close build, with bird breasts and wing trimmings. These sit upon the coiffures, which are daily becoming more elaborate, with a comical smallness; but the hat is only complement to the hair arrangement nowadays, and so prevailing is this exaction that the woman with much hat and little hair Is quite an eccentricity. Many costumes for Autumn brides are included among the traveling things, some of these showing skirts and long loose coats in pale brown, lava-gray or Vesu vius red cloth. These last titles, as may be fancied, have been inspired by the Italian tragedy; San Frttncisco contribut ing the name of "earthquake" to a tre mendous color, very nearly opalescent, employed by one maker for chiffon;. Paris is full of fancies, and the greatest tragedy gives inspiration for flights. The delicate shades of earthquake sands thrown up in Italy and California are all copied by late colors, and the most mod ish traveling umbrellas have handles of carved lava. More charming inspiration Is gained from Princess Ena'a marriage, this im portant event giving rise to a tremendous revival In Spanish shawls and ornaments of all sorts. These shawls, which have long fringes and magnificent embroideries, are already worn by Parisiennes for even ing wraps with immense chic The shawl is doubled and put on square, the right end carried tightly across the bust and held in place by the left arm. This dis posal is eminently Spanish, showing off a slim figure, besides, to perfection. The long scarfs are worn in the same way; or after being drawn tight over the arms the ends are allowed to hang at each side. The huge Spanish combs, though ununit ed to the present styles of coiffures, are also everywhere shown, while the newest fans are immensely big and Spanish In decoration. Returning to traveling toilets, three of those here pictured have been described. The two remaining costumes, ordered for October brides, are of cloth, in rouge Vesuve and lava gray. Appropriate hats, the abundance of whose feathers predicts continuance for these handsome orna ments, accompanv them. NINA FITCH. Concerning the Making of an Ordinary Cook More About Pickles, by Lillian K. Tingle, Director Portland School of Domestic Science. EVEN the most ordinary of ordinary cooks will find It to her advantage to keep on hand a supply not only of spices and herbs, but also of "store Bailees." , flavored vinegars, and a few w ell -chosen pickle or chutnees. These food adjuncts may appear costly to the short-sighted housekeeper, and a certain i las? of food faddists will denounce them as unhygienic, since they contain little or no nutriment and may be very harm ful when used in excess, or In order to produce an artificial desire for un neces sary food. But as a matter of fact, the use of spice and condiments" In modera tion is economical, since by them plain and inexpensive food material may be varied and made palatable; while for per sons of average digestive powers the flavor and mild stimulation supplied by the Judicious use of spices ajid condi ments may certainly increase the health fulness of their diet. Don't be like the small boy who told his mother that he did not think what his auntie gave film for lunch could possibly be a "health food." because It tasted "real good." But 4lon't use highly seasoned sauces and pickles to overpower delicate natural flavors, and don't produce them, country hotel fashion, at every meal. I have known housekeepers whose cooking re minded me of a certain railroad restau rant dinner I once had. The food itself tasted all alike, with a faint undercur rent flavor of dishwater; but I count ed no les than 17 different kinds of sauces and pickles on the table. Besides the omnipresent cucumber, ex cellent sour, sour-sweet, or hot pickles . can be made from any of the following: Onions, cauliflower, cabbage (red and tuiej, beets, carroUs, beans, celery, parsnips, tomatoes (both red and green). Kentish cherries, unripe peaches, green gooseberries, green plums, green walnuts, green apples, unripe nasturtium seeds and mushroom. You see that they all contain a good deal of indigestible cel lulose and have little nutritive material, so be discreet in using them. The spices generally used are pepper corns, small red chillies, ginger root, allspice berries, cloves, mustard seed, celery seed, tu rner iv and cayenne. The last two are used mostly for hot pickles of the "plca Utllt" or mustard pickle type- The other spices, except celery seed, can of ten be. bought nady mixed, although many cooks have their own favorite proportions and prefer to buy them separately. Horse radish and mace are used in some kinds of pickle. The vinegar may be cider, malt or "white wine" vinegar, just as you pre fer. In Oregon at least, there seems at present little to fear from harmful adul terated vinegar, according1 to the Food Commissioner's report, although occa sionally vinegar may be sold, especially in the country that is not up to standard strength. Here, however, the damage done is to the pocket-book rather than to the health of the purchaser. If you have a weakness for salads tas the ma jority of women have) you will do well to make up small bottles of flavored vinegars wherewith to vary1 your dress ings. Tarragon vinegar is essential for good mayonnaise; celery, nasturtium, mint, chili pepper, mushroom and shalot or onion vinegars, are all useful. The best way of making them Is to crush the flavoring material slightly and infuse it in cold vinegar keeping it for a month or two before straining for use; but if wanted in a hurry, the vinegar may be heated and poured over the crushed herbs or seeds, a good mixed vinegar for use In salads and sauces is made by infusing 4 tablespoonfuls of garden cress, 3 tableapoonsful of green mustard. 1 ta blespoonful of tarragon leaves. 1 tea spoonful of chervil if you can get It). 1 teaspoonful of parsley, l teaspoonful of celery seed and a clove of garlic or tablespoonful of onion juice In 1 quart of vinegar. The green herbs are meas ured after chopping. Strain and bottle after standing one week. For pickles the mixed spices are bruised and tied in a cheese-cloth sack and heat ed In the vinegar to extract the flavor. The vinegar Is generally poured while hot over the material to be pickled: but many people prefer the rather crisper pickles that result from the use of the cold vinegar. In the latter case longer keeping is necessary before the pickles are ready for use. You can prepare your vegetables for the vinegar In one of several ways, ac cording to their nature. First Soak in brine, one pint salt to six quarts water, let stand a day or two; pour off the brine, bring it to the boil, scald the vege tables in. let stand until cool, drain, and cover with hot spiced vinegar. Cucumb ers, onions, beans, cauliflower and mixed pickles are often done in this way. Slice your material and put in in lay ers on a large dish, sprinkling each layer with salt. Use not more than a cup of fine dry salt to a peck of green tomatoes or corresponding amount of other ma terial. Let He "over night; drain and scald with hot vinegar, or cook a short time In the vinegar according to its needs. Don't forget to drain off the salt liquor. I know a girl who made red cabbage pickle as she thought she had seen her grandmother do it. She was most generous in sprinkling the salt, packed salt and cabbage together into cans next day. and gaily poured on the vinegar, rejoicing in her "simple meth od." When eating time came you would have thought Lot's wife herself was In the jars. Third steam or cook the vegetables and pour the spiced vinegar over. This is good for beets, carrots, parsnips and cauliflower. It is best for immediate use. Fourth Simply infuse the material in cold vinegar with the spices. This Is con venient for nasturtium seeds, which can be gathered daily as they form and dropped into a bottle of vinegar. The same applies to button mushrooms, if you are lucky enough to live where they grow. A quick pickle known as "Ladles' Delight," is made by packing in cans equal parts of chopped onions and apple with a few raisins (say one cup raisins to three cups each of apples and onions) and pouring cold spiced vinegar over them. Lemons or limes have gashes cut in the skin in which salt is rubbed and al lowed to lie for a few days- Green plums and walnuts must be used before the shell forms. This can be ascertained by pricking with a long darning needle. The plums can be done by method one. The walnuts are done similarly, but are taken from the brine and allowed to blacken in the sun before being treated with vinegar. This gives a peculiar and I be lieve a specially English pickle, but Is usually liked when tried. Peach or cucumber "mangoes'' tere made by removing the inside and insert ing a stuffing of mustard seed, scraped horseradish and garlic; the sides are then bound together with a thread. It is decidedly difficult to give flavoring formulae for vinegar that will suit all tastes, but the following may be sug gestive: First For sour pickles: Two quarts vinegar, two red peppers, two table spoons alspice berries, one tablespoon cloves, two tablespoons peppercorns, two cups mustard seed, celery seed, horse radish and garlic may be used if liked. Second For hot pickles: Same as above with the addition of cayenne or tabasco with one cup horseradish, one ounce root ginger and extra mustard seed. Third For mustard pickles; Two quarts vinegar, two cups sugar, one-half cup flower, quarter pound ground mus tard, half ounce tumeric (or quarter pound curry powder. If you like it hot), alspice and cinnamon (ground) are some times liked with this. Fourth For olive oil pickles : Two quarts vinegar, one teaspoon cloves, one teaspoon alspice, one tablespoon broken cinnamon, one cup olive oil, one cup sugar, half cup mustard, one or two tablespoons onion juice. Fifth For mild pickles (slightly sweet) Two quarts vinegar, three-quarters cup sugar, one tablespoon cloves, one table spoon pepper corns, one bay leaf, two tablespoons mustard seed. No matter whose recipe you follow re member always to taste the spiced vine gar before you use it. Spices, vinegar and personal tastes are all variable in quality; and a formula that is satisfactory this year may have to be varied slightly next year in order to get equally good results. LILIAN E. TINGLE. Some Deep-Sea Thoughts. Boston Traveler. A sailor's life is a wonderful thing- so -arie-gated like! He never knows where he Is going to land or what he is going to strike. He may be wrecked on a coral reef and eaten by hungry sharks. Or he may not be do you catch my drift and the tenor of my remarks? He may. you aee. depart from port, wliere the water la calm and flat. And presently hit a frightful storm do you see what I'm driving at? Well, that is the hand of fate, you know, a hidden, mysterious force Which guides and steers and goes butting round you know what I mean, of course. This element of uncertainty, of something-may-hap pen n ess. Ia what I'm endeavoring to get at you follow me, more or less? The sight of a barometric drop producea a shuddering And trains of extremely high-class thought and well, all that sort of thing. And thus the tailor Is hushed and awed and tilled with a childlike doubt. A sense of pulsating mystery I was trying to bring these out. It's deucedly psychological and, according to those who know it. Reacts do you see? Internally, and oh, read a deep-sea poet! An Off-Hand Reply. j Washington Star. "What is the chief product of Pana ma?" And the great statesman never looked up from tthe momentous document as he replied: 'Conversation." Simple and Useful Recipes for the Laundry Chemicals Any Housewife Can Mak e, Which Will Keep Linen Free From Blemishes. FIRST, peel, slice and pound two onions, then add one pint of vine gar, and four ouces of fuller's earth, mix well and add four ounces of washing soda. Simmer slowly for ten minutes, strain carefully and bottle. This mix ture will keep fresh for a long time and is chiefly used for bad scorch stains. Blue for Rinsing Purposes. Put one ounce of oxalic acid and one ounce of Prussian blue Into a large basin and pour over them five quarts of cold water, let the mixture stand covered for 24 hours, stirring it occasionally, then strain through muslin and pour into bottles. This is a most satisfactory kind of blue for general use, as it does not streak the linen, and, besides being strong, it has the advantage of being cheap. How to Whiten Yellowed Clothes. To whiten clothes that have become yellowed in consequence of being laid away for some time: Soak them over night in luke-warm water and next morning wash in good clean suds, then put them in a wash boiler with cold water and some pieces of white curd soap and one teaspoonful of powdered borax. Boil for 20 minutes, rinse immediately and leave them for an other night in clean, cold water, to which a little powdered borax has been added. Hay Water. Place a good handful of hay seeds, or a small quantity of hay, into a pan and cover with at least a quart of water; bring the water to boiling point and sim mer until the solution becomes dark in color. Strain and it is ready for use. Hay water is used for the washing of brown Holland materials or for the tinting of laces. When employed for the latter purpose the solution must be concentrated- Bran Water. Put into a pan one cupful of bran, and cover -with one quart of cold water, and bring slowly to the boil. Allow it to simmer for half an hour, strain through a piece of muslin, add another quart of water to make it luke warm and also add a little melted soap. As bran water has a certain cleansing property, less soap Is necessary than for ordinary water. It has also a stiffening power, and no starch Is required to stif fen articles for which bran water is used. Bran water is sometimes employed for the washing of cretonne and art work with a colored background. These articles are washed in bran water, rinsed, wrung and rolled in a cloth and ironed on the wrong side. The cretonne is better If slightly dried before ironing. Bleaching Liquor. Put half a pound of chlorinated lime into a basin, add half a gallon of boiling water and two tablespoonfuls of washing soda. Stir to break up all the lumps and to enable the water to extract all the chlorine. Strn carefully to remove all the powder, and so make the liquod clear. Bottle and keep ready for use. This liquor is used chiefly for the re moval of obstinate organic stains, eucb as dyes, fruit and wine, old tea and coffee stains. But it should only be used for fabrics made from vegetable fibers, such as linen and cotton, as Its applica tion to wool and silk proves fatal to the fibers. The solution should never be stronger than one part of the liquor to four parts of hot water. Prepared Tea for Black Lace. Take one level tablespoonful of dry tea, one teaspoonful of jpum arabic, and one pint of boiling water. Put all these In a saucepan and simmer slowly over the fire until the gum arabic is dissolved and the tea a good black color. 9tlr occasion ally to prevent the gum sticking to the pan. and strain through muslin. Ivy Leaf Solution. Secure a quantity of dry leaves and wash them thoroughly, put them Into a pan and cover with water; bring the liquid to boiling point and allow it sim mer for an hour or two; then strain it into the washing water for dark prints, carefully keeping back the leaves. This liquid is used in the washing water to fix the color of dark blue, red and black prints.' It must not be used for light colors, because the dark color of the liquid would spoil the appearance of the print. Gum Water. Wash four ounces of gum arable in cold water to ramove dust and wood fiber. Then add one quart of boiling water. Put in a warm place and stir frequently with a wooden spoon until the gum melts; strain through a piece of muslin and bottle, when It is ready for use. Gum water is used for fine laces, silks and flannel waists, also sometimes for black and dark blue sateens and art work sewn in silk colors. Melted Soap. Shred about four ounces of soap Into a pan or Jar. Cover with one pint of water and put by the side of a fire to melt. The liquid should not be allowed to boil, as part of the soap will harden against the sides of the pan and become wasted. It Is economical to use In this way the small scraps of soap that cannot be used for other purposes. Ammonia Soap for Flannels. Make a lather of melted soap and moderately warm water, add liquid am monia in the proportion of one table spoonful to two gallons of water. Tt must be covered while in use. as the ammonia will evaporate, and if ih water becomes cold the flannel will nol be clean. Alum Water. This is used for rinsing curtains anc muslin hangings and children's dresses and pinafores, rendering them non-inflammable. Dissolve two ounces alum ir one gallon of water and use for rinsing. To the American Hen. Puck. (Poets may pine of the glory rf the agie but the American hen that 'can qual th productlon of alt our mines is entitled to a ' tribute for her Industry.) Oh. let the country pin Its faith to you. or hen. And it will surely win The scads that glad all men. Tou beat the fruitful mine When on a record lay. And so your famr must shine Forever and a day. All patriots may dream, While looking on your hackle With joy supreme; The eagle's scream Is beaten by your cackle. Oh, bird of boundless Joy, And cashful Industry, Tou make all care a toy That's beautiful to see. Oh. long enjoy your day That is a day of gold: Lay on, oh hen, and may Tou ne'er be laid out cold. With wondrous vim agleam You make all song and quackle Like six cents seem The eagle's scream Is beaten by jaur cackl
