The Sunday Oregonian., July 01, 1906, PART FOUR, Page 42, Image 42

43
AT this late day fashions are of
vital interest to but one class of
women those who are obliged
either through lack of time or funds
to buy their wardrobe at the last mo
ment. This class is not a very small
one, though, and as a consequence the
mid-Summer offerings in the shops are
In many ways quite as tempting as
thqse vhlch were so eagerly snatched
up earlier in the season.
Everything now, however, is made
up ready to wear, and a view of the
pretty things spread out to catch the
fancy of eleventh-hour shoppers re
veals not possibilities' in the way of
fabrics trimmings, etc., but finished
frocks, coats and headgear. Most of
these strike a note quite in accord
with the wrinkles of Summer's most
exclusive modes, and if a woman has
kept at all in touch with earlier fash
Jons she has no alternative but to
choose smart garments. What is more,
they will be reasonable in cost, for
dealers seldom venture to ask other
than rock-bottom prices when the sea
son will so soon be at an end.
A very striking feature of the light
ready-to-wear frocks is the predom
inance of polkadots. large and medium
size, both in the materials themselves
and In the fabrics which trim them.
To be sure, ther has not been a Sum
mer for many as year when disc de
signs have not made their appearance,
but the polkadot rules this season as
It has never before in its history, and
to be strictly up to date a. woman must
have at least one coin-spotted dress in
her wardrobe.
Kor evcry-day wear charming little
waists In tan or white linen dotted
with large black or blue moons are
selling for a song, and these. In ac
cordance with all smart and practical
negligee bodices, show low turn-over
collars and short sleeves.
Then, for afternoon use, there are
the polkado foulards of satin and
soft silk. Black and white dots, dark
blue with white dots, cherry color with
deeper dots, anil lemon color with
orange dots, all range themselves in
the array of simple accordion-plaited
and shirtwaist dresses. Dainty lin
gerie yokes, or, in still later style,
yokes made from narrow stripes of the
silk fagoted In Renaissance effect,
alone trim and complete these useful
and becoming frocks; but a more trim
and genuinely chic dress than one of
The Money Problems of the Girl in Business
No. 4 Value of Spending Money on a Vacation Rest and Relaxation Are an Absolute Necessity.
ONE of the most important lessons for
the girl in business life' to learn
and perhaps also one of the hardest
Is the value of recreation. It seems al
most absurd when one is in the full en
joyment of health and vigor to consider
the possibility of a time when these con
ditions may no longer exist. And there
is nothing easier than to over-estimate
one's power of endurance.
The girl who is in earnest about her
work, who ha3 formulated definite plans
for future success, and who is eager to
make money, is sadly prone to forget that
the most perfect machine in the world is
bound to go to pieces eventually if kept
continually working. Every expert engi
neer knows this, and at regular intervals
he shuts off steam and puts his machin
ery into temporary retirement. Then he
gives it a thorough overhauling, carefully
t leaning and oiling every crank and axle,
t lightening up loose screws, testing straps
and minutely examining every part of the
Intricate mechanism for signs of latent
weakness. And. as a result of his fore
thought, disaster is avoided and the ma
chine lives out in usefulness its allotted
span of life.
If the business woman would adopt
similar methods with that most wonderful
piece of machinery, her physical and men
Sal organism, taking her annual vacation
as systematically as she takes her 11
months of steady work, she would find
herself both physically and financially the
better for it.
There is no more paying investment than
a reasonable amount of loafing. Even the
week-end holiday, from Saturday to Mon
day, would save many a business woman
from nervous prostration if she would
feut make the most of it the whole year
through.
Also it Is money well spent to make
a weekly vie it to the theater provided a
girl refrains from that trying ordeal, a
problem play. There is nothing like a
good laugh for straightening out the kinks
In one's nerves and temper. The trouble
these no woman could wish to possess,
and they can be purchased anywhere
from $12 to $35.
When it comes to lawn and evening
gowns, the limit has not yet been
placed on the polkadot craze, and
while the effect produced by the coin
spots is unique, rather than striking,
because of the delicate colorings in
which they appear, in pink or blue or
lavender tints they give extreme dis
tinction to whatever they adorn. They
are employed in a most novel way on
some of the ready-to-wear frocks by
serving as trimming for exquisite
filmy creations of organdie and lace.
One such gown which did not fail to
draw the attention of every woman
who passed a certain fashionable mo
diste's window where it was on dis
play showed wide empiecements of
white organdie stamped with coin
spots In the faintest blush of cherry
color. These insertions, eight Inches
wide, encircled the small puffed
sleeves and the full bodice just at th
waist line, while two empiccemems 13
inches in width and edged with the
tiniest Valenciennes frills carried out
the color scheme In the sweeping dia
phanous skirt.
To return to practical apparel, a
word must toe vouchsafed to the pon
gee frock In natural coloring. Some
how, as the Summer days grow hotter,
these unobtrusive yet cool little
dresses stand out as they never do at
any other time of the year. Therefore,
if you are considering a sensible, all
round satisfactory garment, do look
at what is offered in this linen-colored
silk, for the woman of moderate in
come cannot help but find it all she
could wish.
Cut on princess lines, the pongee
dress is unusually charming, and let me
say right here If the shopper would
have hers exceptionally swagger she
should choose one which Is In some
way set off by black. The pongee with
black polka dots, the pongee which
Is put together by black spiders and
fagotings of black silk, or the pongee
which shows merely a girdle of supple
black satin at the head of the corselet
skirt, ending in a wide bow in front
all express that indefinable yet exclu
sive modtshness which emanates first.
with most working women is that the
laughs do not come often enough.
Our cousins across the Atlantic have an
old saying anent being "penny wise and
pound foolish" which means simply that
there is such a thing as mistaken econ
omy. The girl who can't afford to go
away for at least a couple of weeks dur
ing the heated term is generally the same
girl who sits up nights to do her sewing
and then goes to bed too nerve-racked and
weary to sleep: who cannot spare the
money or the time for a square meal and
a brisk walk during the luncheon hour,
but sits cooped up in her office and nibbles
at a chocolate eclair; and who invariably
finds her career cut short, sooner or later,
by a complete physical breakdown.
The net result Is that she spends ten
times as much In doctors' and druggists'
bills without counting the money loss in
volved in months of enforced idleness
as would have supplied all the little nec
essaries she denied herself, along with
a good many luxuries.
The woman in business today, no less
than the man. is made to realize that the
victory goes to the strong. The only capi
tal whose value does not fluctuate with
the rise and fall of the market is vigorous
health.
The average employer is chary of allow
ing for vacations, though here and there
one may find a really generous one. who
not only gives a vacation to each employe
but gives the salary along with It. An
employer of the latter sort, though he
may not be in the least aware of it. is a
promising candidate for salntship.
In any event, however, the vacation
must be taken, even though it be of only
a week's duration, and a girl may be
compelled to supply her office with a
substitute meanwhile. In these days of
close competition It is hardly wise to
advise a girl to give up her position
rather than forego her outing. And yet
she may do more unwise things than this.
Said a newspaper woman the other day:
"I've never had a vacation during my
whole career, except when I've had to
give up my work to cpend from three to
six months In a sick room which has
THE SUNDAY OREGON MAN, PORTLAND. J
1 x
VI
last and always from the dressmakers
of Paris.
And now as to ready-to-wear wraps.
Kor general purposes the coat of the
Spring and Summer suit is all the
average woman requires, but the vaca
tionist who is looking forward to any
kind of jolly, outdoor life during the
next few months mit have some sort
of surtout for driving, motoring or
tramping. Stylish tailored affairs at
reduced prices show, all of them, a
contrasting note or color in the revers,
cuffs and buttons, or, as in the coach
ing coat pictured. In the lining of the
hood and cape. Tan pongee and crash
coats of three-quarter length are com
mended as being useful in daytime and
evening alike. These in their most
irresistible guise bear a military
stamp in the double-breasted effect,
with brass or black velvet buttons and
gold embroidered collar.
Coats for motoring are in silk, and
white or toned shades of scarlet con
tinue to be favorites. The white mo
toring hat, too, is everywhere affected
by fashionable .women, and the many
little toques which come for the pur
pose fill the bill to the very tip of a T.
Small mushroom and vizor-cap shapes
In white or cream-colored straw not
only become the prettiest and the plain
est faces, but they fit so securely on
the head that they defy even a hurri
cane wind. Wings applied In Alsatian
effect directly in front, or ribbon ro
settes gracing either side of the front,
happened more than once. If I had my
time over again I'd take a month off
every year, though the deluge followed it.
It may sound paradoxical, but It is the
only way to maintain your place in the
world, for once your health gives wTay you
must step down and out. Tou may man
age to get a bare living even then but
you will never achieve any success worth
mentioning."
As soon as the warm days begin to come
the girl whose work keeps her much
within doors begins to be conscious of.
the "tired feeling" that the patent medi
cine pamphlets speak of. It does not
exist merely in the imagination, either.
It is an actual physical fact, and it indi
cates that the much enduring human ma
chine Is succumbing to constant wear and
tear; that the monotony of work has
put its mark on body and brain and
nerves; and that, by-the-by. if Nature's
warning remains unheeded everything will
go with a crash.
But it Is not patent medicine that Is
needed- Change of scene, change of oc
cupation, a temporary cessation of the
deadly humdrum, will work miracles far
beyond the agency of drugs. What body
and soul are crying out for is relaxation.
Even the doctors that is, the most ad
vanced of them will tell you that no
longer do they prescribe medicines for
man and women who are tired out.
"Get out of the mill!" they say brusque
ly. "Take to the woods and live the
simple life. Be lazy for a while. As for
work, let it go; just forget it. The world
can worry along without you for a month
or so. anyhow. Besides, if you don't lay
off the harness now for a while you will
soon have to lay it off for good."
"But I can't be spared just now. doc
tor." urged a busy woman who had great
ambitions, when her physician gave her
this wholesome advice. "Besides, if I
must die, I'd rather die in harness."
"You won't die," he answered grimly.
"Tou would-be martyrs never do. In
stead, you'll go all to pieces and spend the
next ten or fifteen years in abject help
lessnessa mental and physical wreck, a
burden to yourself and every one about
f4 9 KBBSBSSSSBrL.
trim tliese hats very simply and youth
fully. Noteworthy is a vizor-cap of
straw, set off by fawn-colored wings
branching from baby blue ribbon knots
and tied under the chin by fawn-colored
strings. On a trimly coiffured
head this hat gives the jaunty effect
of a navy officer's cap. For fast driv
ing it Is protected by a fawn-colored
hood of thinnest silk.
If the vacationist has need of a
traveling hat, the best investment she
can make will be a hand-made toque of
Neapolitan or other supple straw. The
Imported tailored models are now
maVked 'down to cost prices, and the
outing hat pictured is a smart illustra
tion of what a shopper can pick up
for five dollars and less. Another hand
made hat is built of natural colored
straw 10 inch width, like rash rib
bon, edged with satin straw, being
folded and crushed together to form
a tip tilted toqUe with a big bow of
the straw at the left side. Pale blue
aigrettes rise from this bow. Huge
buckles made of straw are also stun
ning additions to simple outing hats.
As a last word to "the woman who
pays respect to Dame Fashion as well
as to a good time on her Summer va
cation, remember to have a silk, lace
or lingerie bolero among your other ac
cessories, and if you can't afford one of
those Inimitable little affalrsmade up
from dainty bits of lace braid and
hand-embroidered medallions, have re
gard to the latest advice from Paris,
which says that a fancy plaid or check
you.' She stared at him for a moment in
shocked amazement; but he was very
much in earnest, and she ended by taking
his advice.
When you do take a vacation, take it
sensibly. Make your plans far enough
ahead to have a certain amount of money
on hand when the time comes so that
you can go away with comfort and with a
little reserve fund in your pocket.
Go to a place where you will find some
social life, and where young people of
similar tastes to your own will be about
you. The so-called quiet places that are
remote from all suggestion of urban life
are well enough for married, women with
little families, but they are not for the
business girl needing rest and recreation
combined.
It is not necessarily expensive to go
where one can have a good time, for
there are many delightful seaside and
mountain resorts where comfortable ac
commodations can be obtained for from $7
to $10 a week. And if care is taken to se
lect a place where there are free prome
nade concerts and where boating and
bathing can be Indulged in at moderate
cost, the "extras" will amount to little.
But, as you value your peace of mind,
avoid the cheap country boarding places
the farmhouses of the alluring advertise
ments situated In some God-forsaken
hamlet on the other side of nowhere. Tou
would better stay in the city than to go
to one of these places, where your room
would be a 7x10 cubicle just under the
roof, hot and close as a stokehole; where
sanitation is unknown and conveniences
absent; where there is no society save
that of the mosquitoes, and where the
food served you will inevitably be chiefly
of the canned variety.
After a couple of weeks spent in such
surroundings you return to the city dis
tinctly worse off than when you went
away, having acquired nothing beyond a
depleted pocketbook, an abhorrence of all
things rural, and perhaps a touch of ma
laria for good measure.
Another important item to consider is
the vacation wardrobe. Without pretty
frocks and dainty accessories no girl can
hold her own among the visitors at a
Summer resort, and if she cannot be a
part of it she would be a vast deal hap
pier miles away from it.
It 1s not essential that the wardrobe
be either extensive or elaborate. In fact,
simplicity is in decidedly better taste for
a young unmarried woman. But it must
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be well chosen and must include, for in
stance, a modish coat suit and a number
of pretty lingerie waists plain ones for
morning and dressier ones for the after
noon and evening to wear with it; a sim
ple evening dress for wearing at the
weekly dance, which is now a feature at
every Summer hotel; one or two stylish
hats, and an adequate supply of gloves,
handkerchiefs, neckwear, hosiery and
shoes, all of which must be of good
quality.
It is the minor belongings of dress no
less than the little characteristics of
speech and manner which determine the
standard of a girl's Intelligence and breed
ing; and when she goes away among abso
lute strangers she owes it to herself to
create a favorable impression.
Finally, coming back from the vacation
and taking up the prosaic routine of
workaday life is a good deal of an ordeal,
but the sensible girl who has made the
best possible use of her holiday will
waste no time in lamenting its brevity.
She will wisely arranger her return so
that Sunday will be spent at home, get
ting things back into everyday order.
And on Monday morning she will be at
her desk at the usual hour, with her
cheeks glowing through their coat of tan,
her eyes clear and bright with sheer joy
of living, and her heart full of hope and
courage for another year of effort. In
truth, her new energies will doubly repay
her for any and all of the money she
may have spent on board, clothes and car
fare, and life will hold something of de
cidedly new pleasure.
The T7ses of a Panama,
Lustige Blatter.
Hatter This Panama hat costs 15.
Customer For Heaven's sake, why so
much?
Hatter Because of the quality; you can
sit on a hat like this.
Customer But I don't want a hat to
sit on
Hatter Well, you can draw a hat like
this through a ring without damaging it.
Customer But I don't want to draw my
hats through rings.
Hatter (exasperated) Tou don't want
to sit on a Panama, you don't want to
pull it through a ring. well, in the name
of all that's holy, what do you want a
Panama hat for at all?
Balms to Beautify the Skin
Toilet Accessories Useful at Season of Tan and Sunburn.
IN the Summer more than at any
other season of the year a girl re
quires those little accessories to the
toilet table and bath which keep one
cool and preserve the delicacy of the
complexion. In cities it is an easy mat
ter to provide cucumber creams, almond
and benzoin lotions to whiten and
soothe a skin irritated by sun and wind.
But in the country this does not seem
so easy. The wise girl will look, to Na
ture for her healing and beautifying
balms, and Nature never fails her.
Here are some simple and effective
toilet articles to be found anywhere:
Fresh cucumber peeling will soothe,
whiten and soften the skin. Alder blos
soms, steeped into a tea, make an ex
cellent lotion for the complexion, and
help it also when taken as a tea. Raw
tomatoes, rubbed over face, arms and
neck, greatly beautify the skin, and
nothing gives a lievelier tint to the
complexion than a rub with water
melon, either the center or inside of
the rind. Tea made from steeping the
leaves of orange trees quiet the nerves
and induce sleep, and help clear the
complexion. The same happy results
are obtained by drinking water in
which orange blossoms have been
boiled. This decoction may be had in
drugstores, while anyone can make the
other in three minutes' time.
In this season of frequent rain a girl
need never be without rain water to
wash face and hair in. It is extremely
beneficial to both hair and skin.
Drugstores sell all manner of lotions
to clear the eyes and relieve irritation
caused by sun, dust and the glare of
sand at the seashore. Nothing, how
ever, is as good, as simple and as beau
tifying as Nature's remedy, handed
down by lovely Spanish senoritas for
hundreds of years. To secure this lo
tion, cut a small incision in the side of
a grape vine, insert a tiny hollow tube
of wood or straw, with a flat end in the
incision, and hang a little vial just J
mm ii in
at m -.'
silk bolero to wear with sheer Summer
frocks of all sorts and descriptions is
emphatically the latest and most ap
proved wrinkle.
KATHERINE ANDERSON.
Summer's Most Strik
ing Ornaments.
WITH the reign of white In Summer
fashions, there has come a return
to favor of the mother-of-pearl ornament.
This iridescent, old-fashioned shell is once
again very much in evidence, and for a
girl to be without a trinket showing the
pearly tints of its polished surface is to
argue herself not in touch with what &
most modish in the world of dress.
A very appropriate and charming re
vival this is, too, for there is perhaps
no jeweled knick-knack which looks so
chaste and dainty with sheer hot weath
er garb. The mother-of-pearl ornament
In Its guise of 1906, however, Is far re
moved from the pieces of opalescent
shell jewelry which our grandmothers
affected. Today they serve a prac
tical as well as an adorning purpose,
while old-time fantastic effects have given
place to simple and graceful designs,
which appeal to the woman of fastidious
taste as well as to her sister who seeks
novelty and faddishness in everything she
buys.
In greatest popular demand are the
mother-of-pearl buckles and pin-buttons
of various shapes and innumerable sizes.
These wonderfully useful accessories ex
press a note of chaste elegance in tailored
attire. In fact, the morning gown or
shirtwaist suit which does not boast of a
set of purest white or opalescent pearl
buckles is without the hall-mark of Sum
mer's smartest negligee frocks.
Particularly worthy of notice among the
buckle sets are the tiny oval buckles an
inch or less in length, "which are used as
stock pins. These come with or without
pin attachments and if they are not em
ployed actually to hold a collar in place,
they are tacked on as a finish for tailored
tabs, or bows and loops of ribbon.
The circular buckle which cinches the "
lingerie belt has had a popularity of two
years' standing. This Summer sees it In
countless unique and unusual shapes, the
most striking of all being a large pointed
buckle having central pearl slides In
stead of the more ordinary gilt prongs.
To accompany delicately tinted frocks,
these buckles are chosen with a view to
the most prominent color in the mother-of-pearl,
and should the material be green
or pink or lavender, when the cream
colored shell rests against it a green or
pink or lavender cast dominates the opal
escent lights which waver across its sur
face. Nor are these wonderfully fair orna
ments employed exclusively for belts and
stocks. White or tinted ties and pumps
are also set off by pearl buckles.
under the end of the tube. In the course
of 24 hours a surprising quantity of
sap will be found In the bottle, and this
acts like a charm, externally and in
ternally, upon inflamed eyes. The
Spring is the best season in which to
secure this sap in quantity.
One can never have too many bath
bags for the Summer. Make a number
of cheesecloth bags, and fill each with
a mixture of oatmeal, almond meal,
Florentine orris, powdered, and, If the
skin is tanned, a little benzoin when
the bag is put to use. Such a bag is
wonderfully refreshing in the bath, and
soothes and beautifies the skin. Lemon
juice squeezed over it in the bath will
relieve sunburn and help dry an oily
skin.
Now that women wear bare arms to
the elbow, thin-armed girls will be
glad to learn that they may secure
plump arms by rubbing olive oil well
into the skin every night. It is abso
lutely necessary to get pure olive oil
for the purpose, since any other kind
will cause hair to grow upon the skin,
and pretty nearly all cheap olive oils
are made from cotton seed. They are
wholesome to eat, but not good for the
skin.
In getting lotions and creams for the
toilet, keep as close to Nature's reme
dies as possible. They cannot harm the
skin and injure the complexion. For
this reason, rice powder is safe and
cooling, while prepared chalks dry and
shrivel the skin in time, and many saw.
der preparations contain chalk
Very beneficial to the skin is a bath
of lavender water. It should be of
good quality. It tones up the skin and
seems to magically smooth away tired
wrinkles from the face.
Four Seasons of "Ball." ,
Four-Track News.
Thou hast all seasons for thine own.
O. ball. In the Autumn we have foot
ball, in the Winter the MOcial ball, in
the Spring baseball, and in the Summer
the moth bail.