The Sunday Oregonian., May 21, 1905, PART FOUR, Page 43, Image 43

THE SUNDAY DREGONIAtf, PORTLAKDf .HAT - 21, 1905.
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HOW TO DRESS THE BABY
BABY outfits "were never daintier drloveller in
all their extremes than in this the year 1906,.and
never were they so comfortable and healthful as
now. From ante-bellum grown-up fashions to today's
grown-up fashions is not nearly so vast a distance as
from ante-bellum baby fashions to today's baby fash
ions. The change is in the padding and pinning and
binding and bandaging and turning over and over In
dressing and undressing.
First, after baby has been carefully bathed and dried
and lies on his back on his mother's lap. there is put
over his feet a woolen knit band, which Is most clas
tic and is continuous aad so has no seam to hurt the
baby. It has soft, -wide shoulder straps to kecp.lt up
smooth, and it comes far down. A knit napklnMs often
used, and with one pin is fastened to thV strap in the
band meant for this purpose.
It is one physician's idea that the undergarment
should be made of "nice, fleecy goods, cut princess,
reaching from the neck to ten inches below the feet,
about 25 Inches long, with sleeves to the wrists, and
having all the seams smooth and the hem at the neck,
wrists and skirt, upon the outside, turned over once
and felled or cat-stltched with colored worsted, a tie
and one button behind.
The next garment may be made of baby flannel, also
cut princess, only one-half inch longer, reaching from
neck to 12 or 14 Inches below the feet to cover the other,
with generous armholes, pinked or scalloped, but not
bound, and with two buttons behind at the neck.
Over this comes the baby dress. These three gar
ments may be put together before dressing, sleeve
within sleeve, and then put over the little one's head
at once and buttoned behind, and baby boy is dressed.
No shoulder blanket should be used, since it is some
times over the head, sometimes about the shoulders
and neck, and sometimes off entirely, and the changes
mean exposure. Baby may be accustomed from the
first to go without it. At night a simple canton flan
nel nightdress and the napkin is all that is needed.
Dressed this way the baby has perfect freedom to all
thoracic, abdominal and pelvic organs. All clothing
hangs from the shoulders. The mother has the great
est saving of time and strength In caring for tho child,
thero being but one piece instead of 15. There is health
and comfort to the child. Tucking is not seen on the
newest infants dresses. For the yokes lace, the favor
ite alike for grown-ups and little ones. Is the fashion
able material. Tho newest thing In bands, has the
shoulder straps for support, and a large tab at the cen
ter below, to which the napkins are to he pinned.
An attractive and simple little wrapper for the head
and shoulders is made by cutting a square pleco of
flannel, rounding one corner. About two and a half
fingers' distance from the center of the rounded corner
place silk ribbon half an inch wldo as a casing for a
draw-string. Finish with a draw-string and plain
stitching all around. This affords a neat and attractive
protection for baby's head and shoulders. The wrap
per is simply a square with tho draw-string in Its
case, marking off the rounded corner.
A practical idea for a bib Is to attach the lower
edge to a narrow band that runs around the waist
and buttons at the back. This is convenient 'for the
baby at home, completely protecting the front of his
gown and always keeping in place, but the idea is
more practical, perhaps, than truly decorative, and
belongs to baby's morning and nursery wear rather
than for his rides and show occasions.
The four ways of trimming a baby's bonnet explain
themselves. The little silk foundation is simple to
make and Is the same for all four.
a
Some of them are a little elaborate, but young moth
ers sometimes enjoy lavishing time and labor upon the
outfits of their first-born, and all after-borns, and
when done with an attractive bonnet they have ready
one of the most charming of settings for a fresh pink
and white baby face.
THE princess petticoat Is an Important item and la
made in linen or white silk. The simplest prin
cess petticoat is cut with gores all in one, from
neck to hem. Another model has. an added flounce,
and a third way to make It Is with a long, plain waist
sewed to a straight skirt, gathered at the waist, the
garment being sleeveless or otherwise.
Overalls in art linens, honeycombed or gauzed, with
or without yokes of lace, and colored In cress green,
turquoise blue, or raspberry pink, are useful.
Ono of the prettiest coats for a little girl below her
teens Is cut with a stole- front Into which Is gathered
the actual fronts and back of the coat, the stole being
stitched at both edges and fastened with small but
tons put in in gutmps of three. The sleeves are full
and conclude In frills. "With this Is worn a little bon
net, close-fitting, trimmed with a big rosette of ribbon
at the left side, and a big bow at the right.
Yokes appear with marked frequency on frocks for
BEAUTIFUL BELTS IN SHOPS
THE waist belt of a year or two ago was & sim
plicity, but the flight of time has brought with It
many sartorial changes, not the least fascinating of.
which concerns belts and sashes. The material on
which fashion relics chiefly just now for creating smart
waists is kid. which carries all before it. The kid belt
Is triumphant and appears in black, white, cream, and
all the delicate pastel shades that are fashionable, as
well as in bright and dark colors. Usually it is quite
eoft and draped, but those who prefer severe modes
may choose their belts of two-Inch kid, backed with
' stiff cnlng a mero straight band buckled with kid or
metal; or, if black, patent leather, four or five Inches
deep. These latter are considered most smart and look
their best around a small waist.
Quite the most original of stiff belts is of white kid,
really a twin belt, the two bands laced together with
white cord, which reappears at each outside edge,
where it is laced through the kid, and the buckles are
3f plain gold.
Of supreme elegance are the wide belts of pale blue,
pale pink and butter-colored kid trimmed with three
big buttons of their own material, up the center back,
md fastened with lovely kid buckles in front. They
are most delicate and most lovely, and give a Parisian
iash to the simplest frock.
Useful as well as ornamental are the metal slides
through which the kid is drawn at the sides of the
waist.
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Belts of painted and printed kid are also a vogue,
md are draped and drawn through long buckles of
rold or plain steel, that span the back of the waist
The new pink is. reproduced In kid; myrtle green is an
other color, and rose red has Its charms, particularly,
when conveyed in a draped "belt of the softest kid, bor
dered with tiny paillettes of cut stccL
Another novel belt is of the skeleton class, the ends
being of colored silk elastic, while the Swiss shaped
center part is composed of narrow bands of velvet
' ribbon, laid upon silk, and daintily embroidered.
The new silk elastics, which render yeoman service
in the composition of belts, are really charming, some
of them appearing as glittering gold or silver.
Suede, as well as soft glace kid. Is .much used for
construction, and the favorite decorations are wee-butr
tons of gold metal.
Striking novelties are the leather belts sprinkled with
steel paillettes and cut with an irregular edge, that
boast little basques; and tho softer kid belts adorned
with hows of their own material at the back, the
center of tho bow being & large kid button, are also
effective.
Other novelties are the straight waistbands of white
or pale -blue kid veiled with a network of gold thread
embroidery, having large, solid squares of gold about
It. And last, but not least, are the Swiss belts of
white kid. incrusted with ribbon embroideries in the
form of small flowers and foliage,
Of silk belts little need be said. They are mostly
high and draped. An exception to the rule occurs in a
novel belt of shaded soft silk, embroidered with che
nille, this being some flvo Inches deep and worn to Its
full width without the introduction of folds or gathers.
FORECASTS OF FASHIONS
The sacque coat with the square sleeves outlined with'brald and bearing a small
square collar at the neck of crochet lace, is a pretty style which may be commended
for comfort as well as elegance. But among tho newest of the simple costumes Is
one in narrow black and white stripe, looking like a cashmere edition of our old
friend Galatea. This, trimmed with strappings and .bearing a turned-over collar
and small waistcoat of white pique above a shirt oMacc, must be quoted as emi
nently, desirable.
The matinee hat has always been such an object of wrath that theatergoers may
be glad to learn tlie theater tqquo Is the last cry of fashion, and that Its size is
-emarkable for Its smallncss. It is made of lace or chiffon twisted" over & light flat
frame, and just trimmed with a bunch of flowers of a couple of tips or -an esprey. A
chiffon toque, with "neck scarf to match, is really pretty wear; and in Paris, where
low-necked dresses are not worn at the theater, the toque accompanies all and
every kind of drees; a flower one is .pretty and accords better with a cloth costume
than the chife-a shape. Whatever it he asade of Jt is snail, fiat aad. generally rouad.
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IN LITTLE GIRL'S CLOTHES
little girls, a collar being absent or present according
to preference, while1 the shape of the yoke is now
round, now square, and the edge scalloped or plain.
Bishop sleeves and short puff sleeves are the two
leading vogues In connection with frocks for little chi-
dren. Nothing of Its clas3 has superseded In favoritism
the Iong-walsted French frock with a sash drawn well
down to the hips and-tled into a big bow at the back
or a knot tied at the left side. A simple dress of this
sort of pale blue china silk has an Insertion of lace
running round the skirt, and the bodice is hung to
a scalloped yoke of lace to match, the cuffs to the
bishop sleeves being also of lace.
Never since embroidery was invented has it been
more used for any purpose than for adecniBg the7
garments of the little ones. Borderle- anglais Js,?jP
' ular, and Is extremely useful when utilised ia Baa4s-e
trimming, since they can be used a gal a ea.etaer-dresses.
MAKING OF THE BLOUSE
THE woman scarcely breathes that can have too
many pretty shirtwaists and blouses, and once
acquired the gentle knack of putting one together,
their making can be a delight and a useful economy
of short, Inexpensive lengths of material or left-over
pieces.
" A favorite morning "shirt," as the Englishwoman
says. Is of delaine of the checked or striped varieties,
with cream grounds that are cool-looking, yet not too
thin for the chillier mornings of Spring and Summer.
The neck is cither provided with a turnover collar of
Its own material, piped or hemmed with silk, or fin
ished with a smart little turnover of embroidered lawn
and a bow tie of silk.
Tokcd and yokelcss shirts are equally fashionable,
and into the yoke the shirt Is often set in a. series of
small box plaits. Other patterns show a center box
plait frilled with a tiny kilting of silk, and on either
side are smaller box plaits or knife plaits, also edged
with kiltings.
One effective Idea Is the yoke that is apparently
buttoned to the lower part, the buttons being either
extremely large or extremely small. The shoulders stand
out a wee bit beyond the sleeves to emphasize the
Illusion of the yoke being independent of the shirt, and
the front continues as straps to the waist. Of course,
we have all found out by this time that shirts fall
much more closely to the figure than of yore.
The smartest of the new models are cut with fitted
sides, and the fullness Is kept quite to the center, front
and center back, where a slight panel is admitted or
the shirt In front is fixed down straight and severe.
- Linen and canvas shirts being on the crest of the
fashion wave, girls with leisure and inclination are
working designs on linens destined for their own per
sonal wear. You can confine the embroidery to the
center box plait and cuffs, or spread It all over the
front part of a shirt which has no plaits. A linen
shirt without embroidery may have introduced a cen
ter plait paneled with torchon or Cluny lace, which
cither runs straight up to the neck or deviates into a
small yoke. The cuffs arc also paneled with lace.
The more severe shirts of striped linen or galatea
have exceedingly stiff cuffs, about three inches deep,
and wide, like a man's. The yokes slant.off, and are
also stiffened.
Not new, but charming for batiste blouses. Is -the
round yoke composed of narrow bands of the batiste,
joined by open-work stitching or braid. Although
high, full shoulders are the dressier era, the sloping
shoulder has not been altogether elbowed out of fash
Ion, and is attractive in the soft materials and in this
model. The slope must not be too pronounced and it
must be balanced by width. Round, wide yokes of lace
may be bordered with crossway bands of the batiste
running right across the arms. Tho whole blous.e may
be of lace alternating with crossway bands, running
all around the figure. The sleeves can carry out the
same idea.
a
Crepe de chine and embroidered linen Is a new de
parture. Linen under its present glorified aspects is
seemingly fit company for even regal satin.
A lovely little design for this combination is s
striped yoke of coarse white cut linen trimmed with
buttons and beetle backs of linen, embroidered all
over with silks and inlet with lltte scrolls of Valen
ciennes lace, a fringe of tiny embroidered barrels,
falling from the edge of the cut linen over the blouse
proper below, made of crepe do chine.
TO MAKE THE ROSETTES
ROSETTES of many kinds are in favor and go well
with the pompadour styles. Dainty rosettes of
lace consist of a circular medallion of gold lace laid
over satin cut to the same shape and bordered with a
plaiting of silk or velvet.
The flat type of rosette Is cut out as a. large circle,
the size of a'n ordinary teacup saucer. This Is about
six Inches across, and the outer edge is gathered and
brought to the center. In which a most tiny hole -is cut.
A button finishes this rosette, or a little gathered circle
of material drawn up over wadding.
Triple rosettes arc effective, and these are cut as
largish circles of graduated size. The centers are cut
away and the outer edges hemmed and sometimes
trimmed. Each circle is then gathered up, and the
three mounted one above the other, a gathered silk
button or ball completing the rosette.
Small bows of velvet or silk are placed in lines close
together, and in black or dark velvet are most effect
ive on light gowns. Medallions of ivory lace are also
Inserted In black net and lace gowns and outlined
with narrow ruchlngs or with little plaltlngs of lace
or ribbon. Applique scrolls and stenciled strappings
are still in vogue, and, when marked out in silk be
cloth, are cut with sharply pointed scissors, and unless
the edges are firm enough to be merely stitched, some
species of drawing braid or ribbon is used over the
cut edges.
The rosette and the tiny bow set In lines are. how
ever, the favored trimmings of the moment. A great
deal of material is used on some of the Summer silk
gowns, as much for the trimming as for the gowa
proper. The plaited qulltlngs, with a folded beading
on each side, are seldom less than two inches wide.
Taffeta is delightful for qulltlngs, ruches and boull
esnees, and for the narrow folded ruche, which is used
to outline scrolls and motifs of lace.
MAKING OF A WASH WAIST
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"When making wash waists, no hooks and eyes Is the motto. Buttons- wherever
possible', for under many circumstances they are far preferable to hooks. In tee
dressy waists buttons and buttonholes can be hid under a fold.
In the wash waists handsome buttons may be fastened on with a tiny ring and
readily removed when the waist has to go to the tub. In the waists which faaia
at the back, buttons are far more reliable than hooks and eyes or hooks and ioo$.
So few needlewomen make good buttonholes that they feel a great temptation te
use the hooks and eyes as hemg less trouble, but this is a mistake, just as:S the
using of strings in lieu of buttons on undergarments. -
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The best-fittlsg garments, whether. visible or invisible, are those that are -tened
with, plenty ef buttons which keep these la pktce awi perfectly' smooth, ad
' not aHew the garment te gap. The tnttteoe should be ef,a. sort that will' set 'break
ref&ly ia the lauodry. '