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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 21, 1905)
or . - i 7 I" -3- r-f- . - t- i i-tS TRAVELING RAIMENT ON b ' ' ' " j - X)OSE COAT SUIT OF LIGHT-WEIGHT HOMESrUN. POR some inexplicable reason, the fem inine world goes a-travellng in Sum mer. The Spring, Fall or even Win ter offers more attractions In traveling comfort, pure and simple, but the preva lpnce of a Summer vacation and a gen eral sense of right to relaxation in hot weather Is responsible for the tremendous 'vogue for Summer traveling among the masses. ' The young wife closes her flat in town and goes upstate to visit her mother with the advent of hot weather. The mother of four or Ave active clilldren closes her town house, and goes half way across the continent to visit the old farm directly school vacations begin. The young woman who has worked in office or store for nlno months begins to plan for a trip of some sort when the leaves burst In the city park. And be it known that this very day should mark the lay ing of her plana for the traveling gown, most Important feature of her Summer wardrobe. . It is all very well to say that the gown does not make the woman, but 141 travel ing It commands the respect of porters and other inferiors, and it oftlmes regu lates the welcome accorded a young girl on lier first visit to a punctilious and con servative hostess, for in no way does a woman show her breeding as in the se lection of her traveling gown, and in no place Is the sin of overdressing more con- Food Value of Various THE craze for all things Japanese which has been marked since "the Yankees of the East" have scored mar tial success, has now invaded that holy of holies In domestic life, the culinary department. -The American housewife hftE read that the Japanese owes his mar velous strength and endurance, as well as his smooth. If dark, complexion, to a well-balanced vegetable diet. Hence in many an American home today, where meat has always played the star role In dietet ics, vegetables have usurped the place of honor. Vegetables should be divided Into four classes: First, those containing nitro gen, which is the muscle and tissue butldlng quality, in which may be in cluded peas, boane, asparagus, cereals, Huts and gluton macaroni: second, the vegetables rich in starch and sugar, such as rice, potatoes or ordinary macaroni. A few vegetables there are which yield fat, such as certain nuts and olives. The last and least valuable arc the vegetables which contain principally water and min eral matter, such as cabbage, carrots, tur nips, lettuce, tomatoes, etc Fresh vegetables, such as tomatoes, let tuce, asparagus and even cucumbers, mar inated in oil and vinegar, are excellent for toning the bowels and clearing the .complexion. Carrots are also considered excellent for the complexion, and boiled onions are said to be extremely strength ening. The Italian practically lives on macaroni or spaghetti stewed in toma toes and mixed with iheese. The Japan ese build up firm, solid flesh on a diet of Tlce. Rlee and mRcsronl 'hoth shntilrl Vui- hr11? rapidly, so that the particles are kept separate. Potatoes must be cooked Just at the boiling point, and all vegetables should be dropped into boiling water to secure the best results. A good rule Is to cook all vegetables that grow under ground, such as carrots, turnips, pota toes, in unsalted water. The one excep tion Is onions, which are better for having salt added to the water In which they are cooked. Green vegetables that grow above the ground should have salt added to the -water In proportion of one teaspoonful -of jsalt to two quarts of water. Peas and various sorts of beans are now appearing on the market at a reasonable figure. In a. few weeks they will be cheap. Green ps abould not be cooked care lessly. TbeJr flavor ,4ef entirely upon their tretsaBt la tae kiteaea, ae matter 1 splcuous than or. a railway train or a boat. I The economical woman chooses her traveling gown and all It? accessories with a view to their utility In other direction?. The business girl counts upon its doing service when she returns to the office after her vacation. The wife and mother expects to utilize the dress later for chop ping, and perhaps even church wear In the early Fall. The general effect of a traveling gown should be that of smartness and trlm ness. It should afford no lodging place for dust or train grime. It should be neither so dark as to jhow dust nor so light as to catch the least fleck of soot. And the inexperienced shopper will do well to ap proach the salesman at a good chop with the simple statement that she wants to see some of the best fabrics for traveling gowns. In response to this request she will find a field practically without limit For general use the favorite fabrics seem to be mohair and its near relative, slclllcnne cloth, both of which shed dust as a duck sheds water. The mohair of the hour Is light, rilky and lustrous, and the English mohairs come In the smartest of patterns checks, embroidered dots and water stripes. The best plaids do not show two definite colors, such as black and white or green and white, but through a decided design of white with a darker color, such as black-run threads of In deflnable red, green, brown or yellow, so how fresh they may arrive from the truck garden. Shell and toss them into very cold wa ter, allowing them to remain there 20 minutes. Drain and pour them Into a kettle of boiling water, allowing a tea spoonful of salt to each two quarts of water. Boll slowly without a cover for 20 Lmlnutcs, or until the peas become tender. 11 tne peas are cooked too rapidly the shell cracks and breaks. If they are not kept at the boiling point they become wa ter soaked. When they are done, drain off the water and add a dash of salt, very little pepper, and for each quart of peas a level tablespoontul of butter. Shako very gently, Jusf enough to melt the but ter, and turn the peas at once Into a vegetable dish. This is the Ideal way of serving new peas, and fancy dishes from this vegetable are not desirable until they have readied the point where they are old. Later In the season they can be rubbed through a sieve and worked Into a puree or served with a cream sauce. French Beans a. la Creme. String, but do not break, two pounds of young French beans. Cook fn unsalted boiling water until they are tender enough to pierce with a toothpick or a straw, but do not let them boll long enough to col lect in a shapeless mass. Have ready a sauce made as follows: Rub the bottom and sides of a, stewpan with a freshly cut onion. Melt in this pan two ounces of butter and rub Into it an ounce of flour forming a smooth paste. Then add grad ually hair a pint of cream and stir until the sauce thickens. Season with salt, pep per, a pinch of sugar and nutmeg, and a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Into this sauce pour the beans. Mix just long enough so that the beans are thoroughly hot and serve In a hot vegetable dish, with a sprig of parsley rising from the center. If the cream is not at hand, sub stitute half a pint of milk from which the cream has not been removed. Asparagus is frequently served in a most unpalatable form in the American house hold because the cook pays more atten tion to her sauce than to her vegetable, and serves a creamy, delicious dressing over a tough. Indigestible etalk. Aspara gus is sold in bundles. The string should be cut and each stalk carefully washed In cold, water and then trimmed; that Is, cut from the lower end the woody, hard fiber, then lightly pare off the outside skin until It begins to turn green toward the head. Now tie into small bundles, three or four stalks to the handle, and lay these carefully into a kettle of boiling, salted water. Ooe careful cook lays the aspara gus in. a long, narrow "basket-sieve, with a- handle, and drops this Into boiling wa ter, as she fries potatoes In boiling lard. "When the asparagus ie eoaked, wsick fine, indeed, that one must examine the cloth very closely to determine the actual coloring. These make excellent fabrics for traveling gowns. A new offering in a silk and wool mix ture, despite U up-to-date name. Is noth ing more nor less than the old-fashioned gloria, which, by the way, is an econom ical investment. It shows striking plaids softened by hair lines, and is very wide, cutting to excellent advantage when the circular skirt Is desired. Very few plain or one-toned cloths are offered for trav eling raiment. Mixed goods are Infinitely more popular, and nearly everything Is waterproofed, from serges to mohair and silk. The smartest serges show the same plaids described in the English mohair?, and the English tweeds and suitings in clude loose-weave homespuns In Scotch mixtures, which, though they look very substantial, in reality are light In weight and Just the thing for the loose coat suits that no many slender girls prefer to the tight-fitting bolero. Panama cloth, a variant of mohair, is extremely popular' for traveling gowns, and Is one of the most durable materials, if the suit must do service well Into the Fall. As to the general cut of the gown, the prospective traveler must solve this prob lem according to the nature of her Jour ney and the length of her purse. The wo man who can afford the luxury of a ellk Vegetables usually requires about SO minutes, she lifts sieve and asparagus right out of the water and sets It to drain over -a pan on the back of the stove. In this way there is no chance of the asparagus being water soaked, and it is less apt to break. While the asparagus is cooking make the toast and sauce. Trim off the crust of the bread and cut Into square pieces. Toast a golden brown and arrange them neatly on a hot platter. When the asparagus Is drained, arrange It neatly on the toast, with the tips all pointing in one direction, and send to the table with sauce Holland alse, served in a separate sauceboaU. Sause Hollandalse Boll one bay leaf and a tablespoonful of chopped onion with two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vine gar. Allow It .to stand in a china bowl until cool. Rub two tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoonful of flour to gether, add gradually a cup of boiling water, or better still, a cup of the water In which the asparagus Is cooked. Stir until It reaches a creamy consistency. Then add the vinegar mixture which has been strained through a hair-sieve. Re move from the fire and stir In slowly the yolks of two eggs beaten light. Heat very slowly, but do not boIL Add a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Strain and serve immediately In the sauceboat. The family will no longer refer to car rots as "cow food" It they are served in the form oftimbales. Carrot Timbales Grate three large car rots, add to them Tialf & .cupful of cream and two eggs beaten lightly. Season with salt and a dash .of cayenne. Fill into small baking cups, stand In boiling wa ter, and bake for 30 minutes In a moder ate oven. When cooked turn out on & platter and serve with cream sauce. Steamed Eggs and Tomatoes-tSeparate the whites from the yolks of as many eggs as are required for a dish, reserving the yolks separately In one-half of their respective shells; season the whites .with celery salt, white pepper and a dash of paprika and whisk them to a very stiff froth. Lightly butter some china rama kin cups and arrange some of the white of egg in each, so that the bottom and tides are evenly lined with it, and Into the hollow In the center slip one of the yolks. Then coyer them entirely with some of the remaining whisked whites, and, after smoothing 'the tops; place the caps la a saucepan coataiaing enough bolting water to reach to rattier less than two-thirds of their depth. .Tut "a lid ovec the cups and steam the egaa steadily fer from six to eight minute. When they are reedy loosen the watte of egg roaad the aides af the, cap aad. tarn tae ck ttwts ef each carefully o ts tae half of a wtdluai-atocd tacaato, Mck aac .bee TAILORED LINES .dust coat will employ a long, all-enveloping coat of this nature over a shirtwaist suit of silk or mohair. But for the average purse the two-piece suit of rough doth or mohair, with a harmonious ..shirtwaist, will give best value In prceent and future wear. The short Jacket, with perhaps the pos tillion back. Is the ideal traveling, coat, as redlngotes or long-tailed jackets ;bfany fort crease while; ttio. bolero .yahJbe- hung on a hook or evcrufolded on the'ra.ck over head,, with less- danger to Its freshness and good lines. The traveling skirt clears the ground all the way round, and It comes In an in finite variety of styles. For the girl who carries herself well and has a faculty for keeping her gowns fresh and smart-ldok-lng, the skirt of the moment is the two piece circular pattern with a scam direct ly down the front. This Is considered particularly desirable when evolved from small. Indefinable checks and plaids, but it Is a question whether It Is a skirt which meets the needs of an economical, girl, as it is more apt to get out of shape than the pleated skirt. Unless cut by an ex pert. It is apt also to hang In points, sag ging here or there in a most trying fash Ion, and if it Is bought ready-made Its scams, and particularly the plcceout of the gore, must be regarded with suspicion. Here la where the sagging will be no ticed first If the grain of the skirt Is not preserved In the Junction. Of the making 'of pleated skirts there is practically no end, and quite frequently cooked on a buttered tin in the oven until just tender. Have ready a sauco made according to the directions given below. Garnish the top of each egg with about a teaspoonful of it and scatter a little finely chopped parsley over it. Pour the re mainder of the sauce round the tomatoes, but without covering them. For the sauce, put a quarter of a pint of bechamel sauce into a stewpan of suitable size, and as soon as It is hot, stir In a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Ascertain that there Is sufficient season ing, and then add a tablespoonful of to mato preserves and two tcaspoonfuls of chopped parsley. Use as directed when the sauce Is thoroughly heated. Thin crisp slices of toast and butter should be passed with the eggs. The Power of Song. Bulwera Translation of Schiller. A rain-flood from the mountain riven. It leaped in thunder forth today; Before Its rush the crags arc driven, The oak uprooted, whirled away! Awed yet in awe all wildly gladdening The startled wanderer halts below; He hears tne rock-born waters maddening. Nor wits the oource from whence they go: So, from their high, mysterious founts, along. Stream on the silenced world the waves of sonc! Knit with the threads of life forever. By thoa? dread powers that weave the woof Whose art the sinter's spell can. sever? Wbos breast has mall to music proof? Xx. to the bard a wand of wonder The herald of the rods has riven: He sicks the soul the death-realm under. Or lifts it breathless up to heaven Half sport, half earnest, rocking Its devotion Upon the tremulous ladder of emotion. As when In hours the least unclouded. Portentous, atrt&es upon the scene Some fate before from wisdom shrouded; And awes tha startled souls of men Before that stranger from another. Behold how tais world's great ones bow; Mean Joys their Idle clamor smother. The mask Is vaaUfecd fom the brow: And from truth's sadden, solesna lUr unfurled Fly all the craven falsehoods. of the world! 0 Soar like Fate Itself Is given To ecare the idler thoughts; away, " To lift the earthly bp. to heaven. To wake the p4rit from, the clay! One with the ges tae bard: before him All thtar DsclMB aad earthly fly: -Hseeted are aH saeaaer powers, and o'er him The dark fate sweeps BS&armlnr by; And while t&e''aeother'a megle ssetceres flow, Smoothed every wrfakle oa the brows, .of woe! Bvea as a child, that after plater 1 Fer the sifeet attest -.ssetacr. beats.. Her veje, ana rewad her Beak eatwlaiar Tesg arms, vests all its seal is tears: So by &arfc eastern far estraaged, Atoag the glad aaa guBeteea track, Te cMMasad'S Havfry bene aaeaard - Tae. swift, seas waKa tae waaderer back Eaaicaed frees taeceM as fersta! werM, aae 3jr, ihefareat, artaV to:aar4fewiBg-,aresU I'LMTED TYVO-riECE SCIT OF MOHAIR, SHOWING VOICE EFFECT Kf SKIRT- the Jackets are built from pleat? to match, In size and arrangement of those employed for the skirts. A noticeable fea ture of the very full pleated skirts Is the double or triple line of stitching which outlines the waist and hips on a good curve and simulates a yoke. These pleat ed skirts are particularly effective on a slender girl, who may also venture on the full-plcatcd bolero or blouse jacket to match. If they are adopted by a stout woman, the pleats must be stitched very fiat and the yoke line must be clearly de fined. A skirt which will be found moat ef fective on a stout woman Is a new tair ored design, which shows a yoke box pleated in the front, and smaller box pleats running down from either hip and in the center of the back, making four Dame Fashion's Decree WITH the change of frills and furbe lows from heavy silk and wool ma terials to the sheerest and thinnest of Summery fabrics, the decorative button loses none of its "Winter popularity. It does, however, have the appearance of being an integral part of the lightweight frock which it adorns. Most of the fancy buttons come In three sires, from the two inch button for the girdle to the quarter inch button for collar and cuffs. Mother-of-pearl undoubtedly plays the largest part in the foundation of the Sum mer buttons. Unadorned it serves as the approved fastening for morning shirt waists, but for trimming more elaborate bodices it takes on endless embellishments and decorations. Extremely delicate is a button with a gold filigree center and a quarter-Inch mother-of-pearl rim overlaid with gold filigree. Another pearl button is ornamented with a small gold crocus, the top of the circle being cut out to form the upper petals of the flower. For big coat buttons the opalescent mother-of-pearl Is covered with sterling silver fila gree of flowery- pattern, a single button of this design selling for 33. Rhinestones are as much a feature of Something New in Jardinieres for Porch Plants AN anxious little wife armed with a formidable shopping list, met her dearest friend in the basement of a de partment store. "Oh, dear," she said, "we have taken a cottage at B " (a popular suburban town) "and I haveo many furnishings to buy that I do not know where to begin." "Well," said her practical friend, "take nay advice and look well to jardinieres and tubs for your ferns and rubber plants. By them will your new neighbors judge you." There Is more truth than facettowne&a in ts-ls terse remark. The .'porch, -furnishings of a household are the first to' at tract . the criticism, favorable or other wise,, of her new neighbors, and particu larly' In jardinieres' does she betray her taste or the lack of it. 3oae porches er even Summer stoops ia town, reaesaale a Japanese auction aaep, white ethers radiate a heiaeHke feeHag and an laaafaaale ataaeapaere of god taae aad xeatle aree4titjr. It. ia a The Array of Fabrics for Hard-Wear Gowns is Almost Bewildering box pleats in all. Between these the skirt is laid In fine side pleats. Another skirt shows a plain panel down the front, with side pleats turning in toward the panel at intervals, all the way round, and these pleats, just at the knee, are heldjn place by flaps of the cloth, finished off with but tons. Still a third skirt shows five box pleats, the largest outlining the center of the skirt In front. Between these are panels finished at the bottom with a V ehaped point, under which are stitched four aide pleats, which, with the box pleats, give a delightful flare around the foot of the skirt. In the matter of blouses, gunmetal black, silk, sober shades of pongee and mohair, plain and figured, with- collar and cuff sets' In tucked lawn or broderle An glais, are preferred generally to wash' Summer's decorative buttons as they were of the brilliant ornaments for "Winter's frocks. The novelty button for nestling In shlrrings and tuckings of soft materials Is an oval stone, which may be had to match any of the season's odd colors, sur rounded by a circle of tiny rhlnestones. The button gives the effect of a costly piece of jewelry- In fact, some women have pins fastened at the back of the but tons and use them for brooches. Single rhlnestone. Imitation ruby, turquoise or emerald buttons are used for studding heavy laces or for finishing silk or velvet rosettes. "Very costly Is a French imported button that has the appearance of opaque glass. A circular latticework of liquid green composition has as its center a star flower of palest salmon pink. A tiny rhlnestone at the heart of the blossom looks like a dewdrop barely daring to rest on an al most transparent petal. Peacock eye but tons are still decidedly In evidence, and the same focusing eye Is effected in a shaded coral button. Metal buttons are finished to look ex actly as though they were covered with silk, and many of them are decorated with a tiny hand-painted flower. Buttons are also finished in perfect imitation of Per sian trimming, the rich Old "World col orings offering a stunning contrast when great mistake to mix many wares in jar dinieres and the market is now so rich in offerings of this sort that a woman will have no difficulty In picking up a har mrnlous collection of flower stands and jardinieres. One, of the novelties of the season in porch receptacles for ferns, either grow ing or fresh from the woods. Is built from sticks of gray birch to match1 the popular rustic furniture It stands a little over two feet from the floor and is topped by a long narrow trough, lined with copper zinc Small, split sticks of birch enclose the side of the zinc basin which is sup ported by heavier limbs of birch. To match wicker furnishings, all sorts of col ored porcelain Jardinieres are covered with woven straw, and look almost like basket. "When straw frames are not used, stone or porcelain jardinieres are most attrac tively decorated in the richest of delft blues, oid rose and shaded browns. One enerroeas palm vase fa deep blue show Saakeapearpaa scenes agalRSt a geld grayed. Another displays QOaiat ceuatfy aaeaea ia pink, staHdiac eot em a white 'xrtttnd. Bat tkc shops ar das aatltav to r LAI TED TWO-PIECE SUIT OF CHECKED GLORIA. shirtwaists. Many of the boleros for trav eling shdw pieces of linen outlining the front. In exactly the fashion displayed in the white edgings for men's vests. White and cream colored vests and chemisettes and dickies are also combined, with heavy cloth In traellng gowns, and these are detachable, so that they can be removed on entering the train and replaced when the traveler reaches her destination. Any thing white or cream colored must be Im maculate if it is to add and not detract .from the traveler's raiment. Petticoats of mohair and. mercerized sat een are preferred to the lingerie skirt' for wear beneath the traveling gown. 1h light-weight silk petticoat is, of course, the most desirable garment of all, but the mohair is an admirable substitute. KATHARINE ANDERSON as to Buttons setting off one of the numberless varieties of shepherd checks. Shaded and change able silks are likewise Imitated in metal buttons, a silky finished button of porce lain blue, fading to baby blue, an old rose graduating to pale pink, or a -golden brown growing into tan. Brass buttons are extensively employed in Hne3 or groups for trimming tailored frocks. An elaboration of the metal button has a rim of gun metal or silver, "with a center of shaded chenille, or chenille in contrast ing pastel shades, held Arm in the middle bj- a tiny flower of cut steel. Leather in any shade forms the center of buttons with metal rims. These are employed for setting oft mannish suitings. Not Infre quently a piece of the suiting itself cov ers the center of the button. "When a button finishes the end of braid bands or loops or straps, it is covered with braid to match. Linen suits are trimmed with Hnen-covered buttons, and on an embroidered frock the buttons have embroidered coverings done In the same design in miniature. This seems to be the year when the girl who can do hand painting will be able to use her art as she never has before: China buttons, exquisitely ornamented with ideal heads or dainty flowerets, are the coveted possession of the Summer girl of 1S05. turn In dismay from these magnificent and costly jardinieres, for just beside them are vases with the same, artistic colorings In simple design, for less than half the price. Noteworthy among these t is a brown vase decorated with golden brown flowers, in perfect imitation nf the more expensive brown pottery. Jardinieres resting on porcelain stand ards are more popular this year than ever with the woman who has a spacious porch and a well-lined pocketbook. Among the most striking of the new de signs is a stand and vase four; feet in height. In a rlcn blending of deep sap phire blue and leaf green; water lily leaves are scattered gracefully about the standard and culminate In a rose shaped vase showing' a few leavas and an occasional white lily, which, is ex tremely natural. Standards of hammered brass" are also enjoying a decided vogue, though, they are merely generally used la aaHsU and llvteg-roo'ms' than on steps Or pare fees. The jardinieres walch. accossfpaay tnaam aave eeenaoaa araas. Hoop" bandies aad are often haamered In fleur-de-Ms Boa's aead designs. ' - - "
