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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 2, 1905)
'42 ''Sir' THE girl who prides herself on her hand-wrought blouses is having her troubles this year, for machine-embroidered effects on the sheerest of grounds, are giving the work of her dainty fingers a hard run for first place. Machinery has reached such a high stage of perfection that the results can he distinguished from hand-work only upon close examination. On silk par ticularly, machine embroidery resembles very closely that most extravagant of feminine extravagances, Oriental hand work. In fact, they are done with mal ice aforethought to imitate the highly raised, rather florid effects of Japanese, Chinese, East Indian and Panama em broideries. ' 1 English eyefet work, or broderie Anglais, can also be imitated very clev- y crly by machine, and the Hamburg, ainsook and Swiss of this season are , not as genuine, as hand embroidery. Further, the groundwork fabric for sucn embroidery Is more sheer this year than it has ever been in the history of machine work. Madras, showing a small design in ma chine embroidery, is one of the smartest fabrics for tub-gowns, and it really does not pay the woman who has many inter ests to spend much time on handwork. A French material, known as plumetis, is another lingerie favorite, and can be had in all white and vary small embroidered designs of conventional pattern, or the pattern is done in pink, blue, green or "black. All-over broderie Anglais is shown at its best on pique or batiste linen. It is very effective on the heavier 'grades of silk, but does not show to advantage jon the very thin habutai silk, popular with the Summer girl. Tailored tub-dresses -of pique are made up with very elabo rate cavalier cuffs, belts and stocks of the all-over eyelet work, and for morn ing functions the broderie Anglais ap pears in separate coats of lawn or fine linen. These are made in half or three quarter length from the all-over eyelet work, and are worn with blouses of a plainer and finer material buried beneath frills of Valenciennes lace. It is a grave mistake for the girl whose frock shows a bold pattern in all-over broderie Anglais to wear this in a fash ion which displays even the most delicate corset cover beneath. The fad of the mo- NO vestal virgin ever guarded sacred fires more carefully than does the Tidy Girl her dressing table, with all that pertains there'to. She may furnish her bedroom in almost Spartan simplicity; she may do without cretonne hangings or lace bedsteads or Gibsoncsque heads for her wall, but she will not sacrifice to any decorative trinket what she considers es sential furnishings for the table or bureau ibefore which she makes her toilet. The tvell-groomed girl bows before this altar and eacriflces upon it a good share of her pin money. The character of its furnishings will de pend largely upon her individual taste. The girl who has studied up on sanita tion and hygiene will have a table se verely plain in white enamel, with nickel fittings. The fluffy butterfly type of girl, who keeps up with all the fads of the hour, is just as liable to convert an old fashioned packing box into a dressing table by the use of flowered cretonne or ellicla and swiss, draped up with dainty ribbons, but if she apes In any way her hygienic sister she will cover the top of her dressing table with a great sheet -of heavy glass which does not hide the pat tern of the upholstery and forms a clean ly background for the hundred and one appliances essential to the comfort of the well-groomed girl. Only the ' extravagant daughter of millions can afford the Marie Antoinette dressing table, or the Louis table gay In gold paint and al fresco scenes or the darker woods inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Among the fascinating modern finishes of eatiny woods used In dressing tables is a silver gray maple. This has a deli cate sage-green tint interchanging with undulating silver waves and is inlaid with small diamonds of pink satin-wood and mother-of-pearL The boudoir fad of the Tidy Girl at the present moment is unquestionably her collection of chests "and boxes. On a foundation of cedar or sandalwood are built marvelous contraptions to match almost any style of furnishing from in expensive cretonne to the most exquisite of brocades. "Handy chest" is the very appropriate name applied to a clever arrangement which stands about ae high as a tea-table and which hails from Paris. This is not unlike the doll bureau of our childhood robbed of Its mirror, and is a receptacle for gloves, veils, ribbons, etc It is some times set upon tiny castore so that it can be rolled to the Tidy Girl's side when she is making her toilet. The drawers are Ipss than five inches In depth, about 22 inches long and 12 wide; though smaller chests than this are offered for the same purpose. They come In daintily painted woodwork or they are covered with wall paper, cretonne or brocade, to match any style of hangings, and each drawer Is labeled clearly: "Veils," "BJbbons," i Tidy Girl Papers; Dressing Table ft '1.' f ST roent among very smart w6men is to wear under the gown of eyelet work a slip, in very soft silk or sheer lawn, of some delicate coloring, such as pale blue, pink or lavender. And where the smart three-quarter coat shows such an lntor lining. Milady of Modes wears a scarf or silk tie of the same hue at her throat Lingerie hats in the broderie Anglais work are again on the market. Some of these show a crown and brim of the or dinary eyelet work, with pllsse ruffles of lace, or lawn edged with lace, for a fin "Handkerchiefs," "Gloves," "Collars," "Cravats." This same style of cheet in miniature, with three drawers, is made in just the right size to set on a dressing table, and the Tidy Girl keeps therein such of her toilet appliances as she does not wieh to spread before the general view. One of the importing houses shows a threc drawered chest with a swell front and tiny gold balls for feet, and the softest of silken tapestry for Its upholstery- A large combination box of sandalwood is upholstered on the outside with rose figured cretonne and is built not unlike a trunk. In the lid are strips of ellk rubber under which Tells or neckties may be slipped. The tray will hold gloves, and beneath this is a space for handkerchiefs. A semicircular box of cedar wood is shal low and divided into compartments for various sorts of hairpins. At the back a compartment runs the full length of the box, and this will hold not only long tor tolseshell pins, but hatpins as well. The front of the' semicircle is divided Into seven segments by thin partitions, and these will hold hairpins of various lengths, rubber curlers, etc A new box for holding ribbon to be used for running in underwear shows a plump, jolly little harlequin. The foun- dation is an empty candy box, in globe shape, with a collar-shaped cap on the under side. The top is covered with a harlequin blouse and a big neck ruffle of lace, into which is set a bisque doll's head topped by a harlequin cap. Under the neck ruffle are slits In the silk fin ished off with eyelet work, and through this runs the ribbon which has been packed into the box beneath. One design showed the harlequin In white, pink and blue, and the ribbons were in the same colors. The novelty in jewel boxes shows a miniature of the. dressing table. It is done in silver or silver gilt, and is com plete even to the mirror. This has no drawers, but the 'top lifts like a lid to show a compartment for jewelry beneath. Entire toilet sets In mother-of-pearl may be counted among the season's extrava gances. The effort to force tortolseshell ornaments upon the dressing table has failed because. In spite of their great cost and richness, they do not set oft the fur nishings to as good advantage as the dainty girl's old standby, sterling silver. The girl who" desires to furnish her dress ing table gradually will do well to select a simple pattern in colors, such as Colon ial beading or the Empire wreaths, which are always kept in, stock. In thcee pat terns she can gradually buy everything from brush and comb to velvet brush, and she must not forget that every well equipped dressing table has two candle sticks to match the other toilet articles. The Tidy Girl, who Is -deft with her pyrography set, can secure almost a com plete set of furnishings as well as a grace ful little dressing table In stamped wood and burn them to match the color design of her room. A young bride whose bed room is furnished in scarlet has made THE SUNDAY' 7m St ish on the edgo of the brim; or the In side of the brim may be faedd with in numerable little ruffles of soft lace. But for wear with the tub-coats in eyelet work, a more severe hat in the same design wijl be worn by the woman who prides 'herself on all-tailored effects for morning use. In fashioning shirtwaists In which broderie Anglais plays a part. It is not unusual to see the all-over embroidery forming the, lower part of the blouse and tucking furnishing the yoke a com herself such a set 1n burnt wood with poppy designs In gorgeous colorings. Among small fittings for the dressing table, the Tidy Girl is liable to forget a handy receptacle for holding the hair combings, and if hair falls out to any great extent she will find the accumu lated contents of this box invaluable for making up little puffs to supplement her own thin locks. Attractive globe-shaped hair receivers have an opening In the cover through which stray strands of hair may be placed in safe keeping without re lifting the top each time. These may be had in pink, blue and white celluloid, and to match more expensive fittings comes a royal copper box ornamented with three silver cherries or silver boxes in Colonial bead pattern. With the Increase In the use of elec tricity for lighting purposes, the girl who uses an iron for fluffing her hair finds a tiny alcohol lamp indispensable to her dressing table, and the Tidy Girl 'cannot afford to be without a curling apparatus to perk up the short locks which persist in falling unbecomingly about her ears and neck. One of the most convenient of these small lamps Is a long, narrow, flat receptacle in plated silver showing deeply embossed roses or an ideal figure Summer Jewels IF EVER a girl indulges her own sweet fancy in the matter of jewelry it is in Summer. Good form dictates that she shall wear certain jewelry with" certain gowns at certain functigns during tho "Winter, but In Summer she has some leeway and goes In more generally for the bizarre effects. In this Summer of 1903 her particular fancy will be the necklace for wear with dainty hand-made blouses, which Dame Fashion decrees shall be in high favor. For morning wear she has chosen the large, graduated bead necklace, which hangs loosely about the throat, with a bead as large as the thumbnail forming the center, and reaching to a line with the shoulders. These beads match In color the skirt or belt of a costume. One attractive necklace for wear with a tan skirt is composed of graduated agate-like beads In a most delicate smoked-ivory tint. Gold. beads are much larger than formerly, and one girl has brought out a set of crystal beads which hor grandmother brought from Switzer land many years ago. These are beauti fully cut, and sparkle like diamonds, making a most brilliant setting for her distinguished features. Large crystal beads can be bought nowadays only for fabulous sums, though a tight-fitting necklace of small crystal beads can. be purchased for ?10 "by the girl who wishes to follow the strictest dictates of Fashion. Small necklaces of coral will also be ex tremely popular this Summer. ' A string of OKEGONIAN, PORTLAND, for the;Econom- 3k ical Girlis Pride mm plete reversal of the old order. A very pretty model on these lines shows a deep, tucked yoke, back and front, with three Insets of insertion, separated from the. lower part of the waist by a similar band of machine Hamburg. The blouse part shows all-over eyiet .work Inset with oval medallions .to match the In sertion, and the sleeves are in the Co lonial pattern, that Is two puffs sepa rated by a band of insertion, with Oj deep cuffs of Insertion and tucks. Such a waist may not be worn by the short, stout stretched to Its full length. On one end of this shallow silver box is a two-inch standard, below which a wick connects with the alcohol. A wide standard on the other end supports the ebony handles of a strong pair of curling tongs. As a usual thing the Tidy Girl keeps this prinking outfit In the drawer of her dressing table, together with her other ungainly toilet necessities. The straight old-fashioned tongs are still favorites in spite of the many kinds of pronged and forked curling Irons which have been put on the market. For drying locks that have been wound around paper or rubber curlers, comes an Iron with two flat, round knobs on the end about the size of a shilling. Another occupant of the beauty drawer is a tonic sprayer for applying liquids to the roots of the hair. This is a long nickel tube with eight short thin tubes like a comb, through which the fluid is sucked up by means of a rubber bulb on tho end of the long tube. And tho Tidy Girl cannot afford to be without a little 1rush with a fine tooth attachment for cleaning1 her comb. Small brushes for getting- Into knots of ribbons and petals of flowers on the elaborate hats now In favor, have Innumerable shapes. One is a re volving brush with a pointed end in stiff, white bristles, and another which is most convenient for Cleaning between folds of velvet or chiffon Is a flat brush with one row of stout bristles. (Copy right, 1905.) RUBY DOUGLAS. Match the Frocks Imitation coral beads which fits closely around the throat and which shows the beautiful light shade of the more expen sive coral, costs 50 cents, and is ah effect ive ornamentation for a white or cream colored waist. Of all precious stones, none has been so wonderfully Imitated as the amethyst, both in the light and dark color, ana an expert alone can judge of their real value. One very quaint ornament for the base of the throat shows amethysts about the size of a bean, cut flat, with eight sides, and set In silver, each set ting being joined by a tiny silver link. Another necklace has pear-shaped pend ants suspended ' from a silver filigree in the form of a Grecian border. Cushion like squares of gun metal half an inch in width hold a tiny rhlnestone In each center and are connected with invisible links. Cameos carved In pink shells are joined with gold filigree and worn as a necklace. Popular as are these large neck orna ments, the little chain from which pend ants dangle still holds its own. A chain of small rhlnestones bears on each of Its links a long icicle-shaped pendant. Bright jet chains holding long jet pend ants of varying length also give a gleam ing, radiating effect about the neck. Pendants In the design of Egyptian harps hang from fragile silver chains, and show tiny stones of different colors. Simple gold chains are employed for hanging jeweled crosses' about the neck, and the charming little pearl and emer ald drops will continue o be the bride's favorite gift -for her maids. APRIL' 2, 190o. Machine Work on Linen 0 and Silk Are Balm mm X r7 i S St as"' &f If J mm woman, as it cuts off the. figure and de tracts from the height. It is distinctly a blouse for the tall, long-waisted, slen der sirl. As a rule, all the lines of trimming on tub-dresses and the general effects in embroidery show a vertical tendency. A pronounced effort haS been made to In troduce many flounced skirts, but the short, stout woman is not compelled to wear them, because the vertical line of trimming Is fully as fashionable and will Appetizing THE informal Sunday night tea re solves Itself into a housekeeper's problem at this season of the year. The delightful Spring weather draws peo ple out for a walk during the afternoon, and the casual guest who drops in just be fore tea time is peculiarly the feature of Spring entertaining. The wise . and provident housewife is never disturbed by such arrivals, because the Saturday work Includes every preparation possible for the Sunday night tea. If the weather is chilly one hot course may be served, prepared in a chafing dish, but if the weather has moderated, hot tea, chocolate or coffee is sufficient to serve with cold dishes. In one family where two maids are kept both -are per mitted to go out on Sunday night, and the two daughters are held responsible for the Sunday night tea. It is a recognized fact that on this occasion tho table looks more attractive than when It Is set forth by their capable servants. The girls take great pride in bringing out the daintiest of doylies for use on the polished table, with candelabra and the prettiest glass and china the family possesses. On this night, too, they experiment with new rel ishes. Insted of salted almonds, they served recently an odd combination of cheese and English walnuts. They se lected a rich cheese, and with butter pad dles molded it Into thick, flat, circular forms about an Inch and a half in cir cumference. In the center of each one they pressed half of an English walnut. Another night they chopped figs fine and packed them Into dates from which the stones had been removed. In another very charming family circle where ybung people are made particularly welcome on Sunday evenings, the mother serves what she calls a lap tea. The table is set as for an evening party, with plates and napkins arranged on the corners, and fruit, cake and nuts are attractively set forth in the center". Her sons pass around the plates, and she follows with sandwiches, salads or pickles, while her husband or one of the boys passes choco late with whipped cream, for the making of which she is famous. She carefully avoids messy dishes, and the salad and sandwiches form the backbone of the feast. Where the maid is given her Sunday night out, the silverware should be washed after tea, but the glassware and crockery may be scraped and plied up for ler to wash next morning. Any girl who has the privilege of Sunday night off regularly will not complain. At one of these homelike Sunday even ing feasts cake Is a most Important item, and the baker's variety Is a poor substi tute for the sort that "mother" can really make if she takes the time Satur day afternoon. If chocolate Is served there Is nothing more delicious than a plain sponge cake, and here Is a recipe that is infallible: Eight eggs, their weight In sugar, half their weight in flour. Beat the yolk3 OS be much more generally seen .than bouffant, horizontal ruffles. Last season, hand-run tucks, exquisite ly fine puffs, shirrings and fagoting, tried the eyes of ambitious home seumstresses and wore on the tempers of laundresses. This year blouses are much more simple propositions for both parties. Girls are making very simple shirtwaists and blouses from exquisitely fine material. such 'as grass linen and the sheerest of wash silks, and then setting them off with elaborate cuffs, collars, stocks, em broidered box pleats to Tun down the front of the blouse and girdles. If eye let patterns prevail in these sets they arc worn with the heavier grades of wash fabrics, and for the lawn waist come sets of sheer, fine lawn embroidered in deli cate design, scalloped on the "edges and set off by diminutive frills of the sheer est lace. The girl who does not do hand embroid ery may content herself with cuffs, stocks, uimpes and girdles made from the Ham burg, nainsook or Swiss embroidory, which comes at such a reasonable figure and in such exquisite patterns. To give these little dress accessories the sugges tion of handwork, she has only to scal lop the edges and buttonhole stitch the scallops a comparatively simple task. A word as to the- .washable crirdles which are sold with many of the ready-to-wear shirtwaists. Quite frequently these are tacked to the blouse. They should be removed and a plain piece of white material substituted. The girdle should then be fitted UDon one of the ready-to-wear girdle foundations which come in chiffon, fine canvas or linen. A wash girdle will not otherwise retain its shape, but will crumple around the waist in most inartistic and untidy fashion. It will pay a girl who is making her own tub frocks to make a tour of the exclusive shops which have acquired a reputation for fine lingerie effects. Here she can see just the manner in which the fascinating blouses of lawn, hand embroidered and Inset with lace, are fashioned. Their true art lies in their simplicity and the subtle fashion In Hints for Sunday Teas of the eggs light, then beat in the sugar very hard, for the harder you beat at thi3 point the finer grain your cake will have. Add the juice and grated rind of one lemon, and then alternately whip in the sifted flour and the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff. Bake 40 minutes in a moderate but steady oven, being careful not to slam the door at any period of the, baking. This cake should be broken and not cut when it is served. A most suitable small cake to serve with stewed fruit Is the sand tart, which Is peculiarly a Pennsylvania dainty. Blanch and slice half a pound of al monds. Beat the yolks of two eggs light. Then beat the whites of these eggs sep arately, one In each bowl or plate. -Now mix one pound of granulated sugar with half a pound of butter. Add the yolks of . the eggs, one nutmeg grated, and the 'white of one egg. Stir in gradually one pound of flour and roll out the dough very thin. Cut It into squares or dia monds about four Inches across, lay in a greased pan and wash with tho white of the remaining egg to give them a gloss. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and lay on the almonds, three pieces to each cake. Brown quickly. These cakes are at their best If the dough is made the day before and allowed to chill over night. Young people are particularly fond of chocolate gingerbread, and In some homes when the weather Is warm, this is erved with lemonade or ginger ale. Chocolate Gingerbread One cupful of molasses, half a cupful of sour milk,' a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a teaspoonful of soda and a pinch of salt. Mix thor oughly and stir in two tablespoonfuls of melted butter and one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a teaspoonful of water. Beat all together and add gradually two cup fuls of flour and four tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate. Bake in a loaf. For the heavy dish of the Sunday night tea, some highly flavored fish combina tion will find favor with the men. Sardines in Boats Cut stale bread Into slices, about two or three inches thick. Drop these slices into boiling lard and fry them to a golden brown. Scoop out the centers, butter the whole with fresh sweet butter, sprinkle tho bottom thickly with finely chopped, hard-boiled eggs, and set in the oven to keep warm. Drain the oil off a large box of sardines and lay them in an earthenware or enameled pan in which one tablespoonful of fresh but ter has been melted. Cook them about two minutes on one side, turn and cook two minutes longer. Lift them out care fully and lay them, two In each of the golden brown boats on top of the hard boiled eggs. These can be prepared In the chafing dish by frying the bread in the butter melted In the blazer, but it Is less expensive if prepared on a gas or coal stove. When the family is fond of herrings, the Imperial canape, which hails from India, Is a tasty dish. Imperial-Canapes Cook the soft roes of some fresh herrings in butter and thon pound them to a paste, seasoning them with salt, cayenne, a dust of curry pow 3 GOT which vertical lines are secured. "When she has mastered these little details, she will obtain better results in combining the machine Insertions, medallions and all-overs In home-made gowns. For instance. in the Maison Blanc she-will find that hand embroidery goes with hand-run tucks: but sh'e will secure better results if- her tucking is done with very fine thread and needle on the machine to combine with the machine made embroideries. On the other hand she will find in combination with heavy piques and linens, done in hand em broidery, ruffles of the finest Valen ciennes. She should not attempt to imitate this by putting a coarse Valen ciennes lace against the eyelet work, as it is the contrast between the heay fabric and the very fine lace that Is effective. The coarse luce Is the stamp of the factory-mnde- stock or cuff set. Between two fabrics the inexperienced shopper has some difficulty in deciding when choosing a sheer blouse for her Summer wardrobe. These are the grass linens which hail from the Philippines and a sheer wash silk which comes from Japan. Both lend themselves admirably to a florid grade of embroidery which Is just a trifle too Oriental to be classed with the Mount Mellick. The most pop ular designs in this embroidery show roses or chrysanthemums, and the work 1b done entirely by hand. For milking up silk waists in Imitation of this oxpensive material, one may buy odd-shnped medallions of embroidery on both silk and linen, which may bo Inset In clever Imitation of the imported article. Both heavy and airy laces are combined with these silk waists, but the linen is at its best with embroidery alone. The smartest blouses show the deepest cuffs, and here the laundress is the Summer's girl's stoutest ally, for the cuffs require careful starching and beau tiful ironing. Only in the finer materials such as batiste, Swiss or organdie, are the three-quarter sleeves shown. All th tailored waists have full-length sleeves, the three-quarter effect being simulated by puffs, falling over the cavalier cuff. KATHERINE ANDERSON. der and a few drops of anchovy vinegar. Spread the paste on rounds of toasted biscuits or rolls, scatter some browned crumbs mixed with an equal quantity of Parmesan cheese over the top and place In a very quick oven for a few seconds. A dainty substitute for fresh fruit when the Winter fruits have begun to pall and the Summer fruits are still beyond tho price of the economical housekeeper's purse, is the prun ramakin, which may be made on Saturday and chilled on tho Ice for Sunday night ten, when a spoonful of sweetened whipped cream should be plied on the top of each ramakin before it is served. Prune Ramakins. Soak a dozen prunes over nlglit. Remove the water In tho morning, cover with cold water and stew until tender. Take out the stones and chop the prune meat to a soft paste. Beat the whites of four eggs very stiff, and five tablespoonfuls of powdered suyar and the prune paste. Stir in this last quickly and lightly, but so that It is thoroughly blended, then pour the mixture Into tho buttered ramakins and cook for half an hour in a steady oven. Eggs poached In a delicious mixture of milk and cream afford a nutritious chafing-dish course. Place in the receptacle over the hot water enough sweet milk and cream, half and half, to take the place of water in which eggs would be poached. When it bubbles, drop In the eggs carefully from the top of a large silver spoon to prevent breaking. When they are set, serve on warm plates, pour ing a portion of the cream sauce over each egg. The eggs should be salted slightly before they are poured into the cream. The woman who prides herself on the convenience of her gas oven may count upon shirred or baked eggs with cheese as a welcome addition to the Sunday night tea. For this purpose she should have on hand a number of very small casseroles, each holding one egg and sup plied with a handle. These are buttered and an egg is dropped lightly into each one with pepper, salt and grated cheese Parmesan or American full cream and tiny bits of butter. Bake until the egg is set in a quick oven. They are eaten from the individual casseroles. Trouble at Church Sociable. Fort Madison Democrat. We fear from some things we saw and remarks we overheard that some xaz underetanding occurred at the table, and, as is often the case, some mistakes made. One of the guests not a member of the choir had the nerve to cut a large cocoa nut cake that was intended for a table ornament, and puss It to the strangers within our gates. Another was heard to remark that the waiters swiped the chick en off the table before It was passed all the way round and that some left the table hungry, having spent a few min utes In fishing: for three small oysters In a pint of cold soup. Personally, we are sorry that any stranger should have left the Illinois shore hungry. Come again and we will try to do better.