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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 19, 1905)
THE SUNDAY; OSEGDffii, P.QBTL'A, ATAKCH
To Aid the Woman With Small Chest
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yy lNovel rittmgs tor rirepiaces jW w&. y
iow, it ever, tne open nrepiace sianas nign m the ravor ot the family circle. Through the Win- X 1 OP
1 ter months it has soared honors -with the furnace, hut now that the lurcrer heatinc
Lucky is she 'who is called upon to clothe a feminine -"To rm divine of spare chest formation, and,
being1 called upon, knows how to veil this flaring- (or unflarlng) "fault.
It Is in the Interest of her who Is called to this fastidious task and "does not know, that an in
genious sketch Is herewith submitted, as it aas been tried and not been found wanting in coming, to
aid of flat-chested femininity.
It is tucked before and behind and shows two revers.
These revers and the empiecement which covers the upper part of the corsage are edged
braided with. "braid about an inch wide.
The plaits on the back, stitched to the corsage, fall slantingly, thus .diminishing the size of the
.The plaits in the front are mounted straight on the shoulder and each ot them is stitched sep
arately -with two rows of stitching, .ono on the edge of the plait and the other about half an . inch
from the first.
Tho plaits are stitched separately so ag to afford fullness to the front of the bodice.
The empiecement is an advantageous idea for the dressmaker economical, since it may' be re
placed from time to time, and is a convenient mode of utilizing a small piece of goods.
Underneath on the lining- are disposed flounces ot taffetas, toed at the height of the chest,. aa
shown In the second illustration.
These simulate a high chest and give a sort, effective fullness to tn front.
The entire design la particularly effective in white and black. -
What the Artist Said to the Dressmaker
Dress is a decoration.
The first law of decorative art is that adornment shall beautify something greater and be- Itself
subordinate. Hence dress Bhould always be less Important than the woman whom It clothes.
It should accentuate her good points rather than call attention to Itself.
Nothing that calls attention to a woman's dress rather than to herself should be tolerated, aa no
decoration should assert Itself above the thing decorated.
The dress should be so completely an expression of the woman who wears it that she will be un
conscious of it. Thinking about it should come before the dress is made.
Another principle regarding decoration is that ornament should never interfere with or obsoure
the construction of the thing decorated. ,
In preparing a costume, color aside, one should seek to preserve the essential lines ot toe figure.
The frock should be treated as a whole to recognize the unity of the frame.
As only natural lines are pre-eminently beautiful no Oress should appear to alter them, oven to
seem to 'do so is an act of savigery.
No dress can be admirable that suggests a personal 'deformity. So, also, any arrangement that
Impedes free, graceful movement or seems to do so should be inadmissible.
Another law requires that decoration must be appropriate to Its place and suited to the surface
it adorns. Every human being has the stamp of a distinct personality which should. Do preserved In
every agreeable feature of it. As individuals differ, the areas of one woman should not necessarily be
like that of any other woman.
If a dress is beautiful it will make tho most of the graces of the wearer and the least of her
defects. It will convince everyone that Its wearer Is charming in her way.
The nobler the work of art the simpler it 13 found to be.
Provided the body is in fine proportion the simpler theform of drees appears to be at first
-glance, the more elegant the result.
An artist so arranges his scheme of color, his composition of lines as to lead up to that particu
lar part of his picture intended to produce the strongest impression. He subordinates every accessory.
securing such simplicity as is most effective for his purpose. To dress well is to make a picture of ones
The picture result Is reached by using the means an artist uses. Again, the highest beauty is one
with the greatest utility. So the woman with slender resources is not debarred from realizing great
charm In the use ot the homeliest fabrics. '
Let the texture be what It must. If the form is in harmony with it3 quality, with, the wearer's
personality, and with her ordinary needs. If the color Is such as sets off her complexion, if her bear
ing is erect, she may satisfy herself that she Is arrayed In many of the qualities of beauty.
She may bo winning and bewitching in a cheap gown.
ow to rress Y our INew or
The time you put In pressing is Umo more 'than well spent.
Pressing is the pons asinorum of the Inexperienced dressmaker.
It Is In pressing that amateurs generally fail and tailors score over the ordinary dressmaker.
Tou will find the tailor's goose or iron useful for long seams, but It is not necessary for ordi
nary worki and most workers prefere a large flatiron.
Good, heavy pressure In Ironing Is most essential and for thick materials this must be assisted
To dampen seams, dip the tips of your lingers in water and 'draw them gently along the open
seam; oa no account wet but merely -dampen the seams, as the material will shrink and pucker with
tne neat or me iron, if you rub soap along tne seams It will help to flatten them and also glvo a
certain amount of stiffness, bul with some aniline dyefi the alkali of tho soap fades the color.
Ironing, as far as possible, is done op the wrong side; should circumstances, however necessi
tate It bolng done on tho right side a piece ot loose material similar to the dress Is placed ovor tho
part to do ironed.
Where fullness has to be removed this piece of material is dampened and a well-heated iron ap-
puea, so as to snrinK away tne superiiuous material by the contact of neat and moisture. This pro
cess will cause the surface of tho garment to become glossy, but the nap may again be raised by
To do this lay a damn cloth over the Klossed surface and hold an extrcmelv hot iron ajs near to
It as possible without actually touching it. and the steam thus produced will raise the nap.
If. this should not prove thoroughly successful, rub the dazed surface irentlv with a damn cloth
For pressing seams tho iron must not be drawn along as in ordinary ironing, but lifted and laid
aown over every parting in order to prevent the seams being stretched by the toe of the Iron.
ax you nave any boning to do remember that the neight of the bones should be on a level with
the top of the darts all the way round.
occasionally those put in the side back seams are. carried up to the armhole. especially for evening
bodices, but for dresses in daily wear the bones, if made too high, are apt to work through to the
The bindings are sewn on to the turnings of the seams only with running, hemming, or herring
At the top make a small, loose pocket by 'doubling tho binding for about an inch and sewing
ing the sides together.
The binding is cased in all tho way down, and for about ono inch above and below tho. wa!t it
should be distinctly puckered, as hero greater fullness will be required.
Tou can put the bones into the casings from the top or bottom, according to your own fancy,
uui. n uuiu we my jruu. uiusi iiul uicLfwc me dockcl tin tne last.
The easiest way is to put the bones in from the bottom, cutting them fully half an inch longer
than the required lerigth and pushing them well up Into the fulled bindings, so that the bodice may be
A hole must be pierced through the bone with a lartre ninat either ena for- fastmine- thnm in
The top end is finished with a fan of stitches worked through the hole over the pocket, the ob
ject of the pocket being to prevent the end of the bone showing on the right side, as it would do if
sewn down to the seam all the way.
At the botom the binding is turned in and sewn with the bone to the turnlnirs of the amm.
Just a half word about making your seams neat. All of them should have the appearance of
being curved, especially well Into the hollow of the waist, but the curves must not be nhrnnK hut
graceful and gradual. Let all your back seams slope to the conter of the back waist and all the front
scams to the center of the front waist. ;
jr tne SUlCning you dO Dy hand TOU Will nned to bo ea refill tn draw th thrMA mfftlanltv
tight to prevent the Join dividing on the right side.
For your machined seams the tension must be sufficiently loose to allow for the thickness of the
material or it win appear pucicered and the stitches crack and break in wear.
Tour seams vary In width in different parts of the bodice, according to the nature of the figure,
and a neat little Item to bear In mind is that for angular figures It is well to leave them fairly wide
where depressions occur, as, for Instance, down the center of the back and the front shoulder.
In that way they act in the place ot naddlncr bv flllin
The under-arm seam Is also usually left a little wider than the others In case the bodice needs
lo anerea auriug wear, out witn tnese exceptions a half inch for turnings may be considered
At the waist lay each turning open and notch it to within an eighth of an inch ot the seam.
Tour onrved seams may also require one or two notches above to make them lie quite flat.
Handsome Nightgowns on This Page
The first model explains Itself at first eight The bands of insertion are separated by mioro-
iutM uuuu in coiureu Datisie. -J.no riODOnS matcn tne batiste in color. The rntir rni
and back, Is tucked. The fastening Is at the. sides.
liiuiHumwj a uocu iur ukuib viueDcieancs oaruers ue inner piIcr or -heeic tiIai-a tn
the effect of the embroidery against the throat, and is one of the gown's most artistic touches An
other novel feature of this garment is the buttoning down the middle of the back.
Numoer s is trimmed down the front on the sleeves with small buttons, the yoke and collar
displaying large squares of cluny lace.
Novel Fittings for Fireplaces
Now, it ever, the open fireplace stands high in the favor "ot the family circle.
ter months it has shared honors with the furnace, but now that the lurcrer heatinc
been shut down, or at least the fires are kept banked, come those sudden cold rains
peoted wind storm, when, "during tne dull, chill evenings, open fires shed more than
glow and comfort thatls indescribable. Architects daily paymore attontion to the fireplace
position in tne nome. 10 iteep pace wun mis demand, mannraeturers and furnishers ol
for the truest of all cozy csrners are offering delightful novelties.
The man who, In truo American fashion, loves to sit with his feet on a line with hi!
can furnish his fireplace with iron or brass grating, tall and substantial, and topped
ruuauiug ma upnoisierca in reu or ol&ck leatner. on tnis e can toast his feet to his
One of the simplest screens for preventing snarks Urine- out and Icnltlntr th
or rug offers a concave coveY of black or gilt woven wire, which fits UghUy over the open
ing. This is ornamented with gilt scrolls. Gilt screens havlnir four or five -wlns of rfnuAitr
woven wire are not only a splendid protection from sparks, but a real decoration to the
room. Wide one-piece screens are made of bronze hammered in scenes of the Christ
child or Interior views of Swiss peasant homes.
But the equipment of a fireplace dearest to the feminine heart is Itc anrir-nn -n.i
these the woman furnishing her new home will find in exact imitation of the log
xesis wnicn auuea to tne quaintness of nor great-grandmother's wide-spreading
fireplace. Among brass andirons-the most artistic are those whish show tall Roman
laaapa topped by a brass flame.
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