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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 6, 1904)
r 36 I Season's Practical Raiment for Practical Women I for BusSSg for Buaaess Dear illss Anderson: Will you kindly on Ulna te. practical -wardrobe for a practical woman? JBy this I mean a business woman enjoying- a comfortable Income. I would like to know fluEt what is the smart thine to wear In the tofllco and fo'r uca recreation as I take In tho tevenlnr, such as an occasional trip to the 'theater, a bowline party or some church re ception. Trusting; that you will not find the answerine tof these questions too much of a burden, I am, 3"ours truly. T Is always a pleasure to answer such I letters as this, and as there are hun- dreds of practical women looking for practical suggestions, it deserves more at tention than a personal reply under the '.stamp -which tho writer has sent. No woman should ever allow business to ab sorb her so utterly that she neglects the 'question of clothes, for it Is not only her privilege but her duty to mako herself attractive. The outfit described in this story is in tended for the woman of large salary. Modified and simplified,. it should suggest Jess expensive raiment for the girl of email salary. First tho woman in business should keep her office or storo clothes entirely distinct from those she wears at home. This will do ninch to rest her "nerves as -well as preserve her wardrobe. Nothing is harder on a smartly tailored business cult than for its owner to keep It on in the evening when she curls up on a couch to read or rest. Such treatment ruins the hang of the skirt. If the. tired stenographer or clerk will remove her office raiment directly she reaches home and don a pretty house dress, she will find that some of her business worries will fall away from her with the mannish skirt and coat. Do not economize on the office raiment If you pay a good price for your tailor- Pitkin's Accomplishment' by James Hendricks WHEN Jimmie Pitkin fell in love with Edith Godfrey all Durham laughed. Tet Durham sympathized, for Jimmie was a universal favorite, and no one with Edith's chances, they ar gued, would bestow upon Jimmie an af fection that was eagerly sought by others. Jimmie was tall and lanky, with an easy-going manner and a face person able only through Its kindly lines and winning- smile. He was clever in his .slow-going way, but he had (accom plished nothing, and after a year in the city, he had returned with the an nouncement that he would rather be an honest countryman than a successful city merchant, for Jimmie had been un happy In his situation, and had seen only the seamy side. He had settled down upon the little farm and was tak ing matters as they came. It was this last fact that Edith had urged when she had sought to soften the disappointment of her refusal. "I like you, Jimmie," she had said softly, "but a woman wants a man who can act. You merely exist. Look at Jack Moore. How he has gone ahead, and yet you always beat him at school!" T could beat him now, if I wanted to take chances on going- to JaiL" said Jimmie, tersely. "Want me to he like him?" "Don't you understand?" she cried, despairingly. T don't want you to be anything but an honest man, but I can't marry a man who does not even try." Jimmie rose from his knees he was even as old-fashioned as that. "Some Hay when I do something, Til ask jerkin," h jwM simply, aad fib. nevr HHr;2ti--- made suit. It should last you an entire season, and, with some .slight alterations at the hand of a competent tailor, it will carry you through a second season, or at least into a second "Winter. a This year the smooth-finished, mannish knew what a night he passed. She thought he did not care much, he had. taken it so quietly. To make things worse, Jack Moore soon came back to Durham. He was the junior partner of a contracting firm, which had been charged with hav ing stolen thousands from the State Treasury, in falsified accounts, but he was successful, and, therefore, was made welcome. There had been some trouble on the trolley road which his firm was constructing. The men had complained of their treatment and the matter had grown serious enough to call for the presence of a member of the firm. He made it a vacation rather than an investigation, and for several weeks rode up and down the line under con struction in -a light buggy, with Edith for company. By that time she did not believe the stories circulated about him? Jack was a specious talker. Then came the strike. The Italians; furnished by a padrone In New York, incensed that their demands had not been even investigated, took matters into their hands and sought Moore. He treated them contemptuously, kick ins: the leader out of his apartments, and they turned on him like tigers, be sieging the building. It was Edith who rushd into the Postoffice with the alarm. "They are trying- to kill Jack Moore!" she cried as she entered the place where most of tho men were congre gated. "Unless you go quickly, he will be murdered!" Two or three -men started for the door, but tho suggestion that the strik ers wore mighty handy with their knives brought them back to the circle about the stove. Edith turned to the Saeriac "8arelyt yen. trill go. with, a jkmhm," THE SUNDAY OEBGONIAN, PORTLAND, NOVEMBBB 6, 1904. mixtures are in high favor for tailored suits. A vest of contrasting color, not too light, may be Introduced, or a snug, semi-fitting, double-breasted coat, some what suggestive of a Norfolk jacket, Ja equally within Damn Fashion's laws. The sleeves are plain and snug-fitting. The she urged. The Sheriff removed the pipe from between his teeth. 'T told him if he wanted to bring all them dagoes into this township, he'd have to bring keepers along," he said stolidly. '"Tain't like trouble between citizens. Til have to call for the mllltla If there's trouble. It's his af fairs anyhow." Edith turned on him a look of scorn. She knew that there had been much complaint against the Italians, and that even the doughty Sheriff feared them, but she never supposed he would permit a man to be killed because of his fear of the foreigners. However, tales of the Mafia and its relentless vengeance had been too much for the men, and no one stirred. "Where's Jimmie Pitkin?" she cried despairingly. "He was here a bit ago," some one said, unlnterestedly. "Guess he' went out." It seemed 'as though the last hope was gone. Edith sped down the street. There was a telephone in the drug store, and while this necessitated passing- the house where Moore was be sieged, there was at least a chance to call to Carsonville, where there was a police force. Something told her Moore was to blame, and yet well, he hod been kind to her. Just as she sped around the corner she caught sight of the mob. Her heart sank. She was too late. They had killed him and were making- their retreat. She concealed herself in a doorway, just as the edge of the mob came up. It was & retreat, but an enforced one. Slowly but surely they "were being- drives back, and presently the lasspllght fell upon the tall figure of Pitkin. AH awkwardness was gone aowv H I9mtdl ifciriy. .ta. jtcirw-abOYa skirt should be built on strictly tailored Une3, no ruffles or ehlrrings, and' If trim ming Is used at all, it should be in the form of strapped scams or very flat, closely-woven braid, which will not harbor dust. This skirt should clear the ground by at least two Inches. "With it should be worn a tailored hat, with no ostrich plumes or flowers, but a breast or coq pompom may be used for trimming. Many well-dressed women In business wear a rather stiff felt hat of good quality, trimmed with bands and big rosettes of ribbon, or velvet of the same shade. If a girl elects to weat wash shirtwaists then she must do one of two things wear between her coat and the shirtwaist a sweater or veett or else have all her house and street dresses made In corresponding weight. Steam-heated offices make the wash shirtwaists desirable, but many girls take serious chances with their health In changing the weight of their gowns when not engaged in business. The prettiest wash wais tings aro mer cerized cotton or madras, which show beautiful neckings of color on white and cream backgrounds. The' new soft tea green appears In many of these waist lngs, also porcelain blue, and brown flecks or dots are shown on a deep cream ground. A beautiful new cloth for waists looks like flannel, but is a pure cotton. It washes admirably, and is comfortable and warm. It appears In stripes, checks and small figures, but it is most effect ive In the Roman strlplngs. Velveteen and broadtail velour aro both In vogue again for blouses, but they must be selected -with infinite care. In certain shade of gray, tan and green they wear the undersized foreigners as he slowly marched along, his gun at his shoul der. There was a low murmur, like the hum of bees, in that mob, but Jim was silent, alert for the. slightest sign of a rush. The men were armed only with knives, and thero was that In the face of this man which told them that a close aproach would not be welL Slowly they passed down the street, while Edith sank fainting In the door way. Next morning- tho town was ringing with the story of how Pitkin had stood off the entire crowd, had driven them back to their barracks and had kept guard until the assistance telephoned for by Moore had arrived to relieve him. It was told, too, how Moore, cow ering within the house, had given no aid. It was several days before Edith and Pitkin met. "Jimmie," she said, shyly, "do you remember that, there was a question you were t,o ask when you had accom plished something?" The love-light filled the man's face and softened the rugged lines. You don't mean that that little af fair with Moore was something?" he demanded happily. She could not answer very well, be cause her face was buried against his shoulder, and for the first time Jim mie realized that he had done some thing more than mere duty In facing a mob, single-handed, because none could be found to stand by him. Sleep. . , , Carrie G. .Xest. Xliht faUs, and la. thy hrt U escrow. Fair hope deth set feer prsmUw lceep, But wMapets ever, "Walt, toakerrow." "Well, wait, dear ob, aa sleep. Night 2aUs xjmI in thy heart ! a&ser. Into thy seal oma wrea 4ta er&vp. Ah, thtek hew mob cock 4th, the atrsMv TonAr, dear one, and attep. JOffct folic; -o4 im -th- heart 4oehh-er 7m leant that. 04- tha rain wmmp. XTe all to kins., -wtaoM, o mux uemx. JFOrS, Mr M MM0,. . The business woman who 13 much on the street should own a complete, rainy day outfit and keep it for that purpose. This because for rainy weather she should have a' skirt and long coat well removed from the ground. Many a long coat of. waterproof cloth does more , harm, than good to Its owner because she has it cut too long." The best tailors say that the rainy day skirt and coat should clear the ground by four Inches. If tho waterproof coat Is long, tho material of the skirt beneath is not all Important, and hero tho business woman may employ a made over. Business women who can afford such a luxury are having rainy-day suits made short skirts and Norfolk jackets of waterproof cloth but these cost as much as a well-built business suit. 'Much thought should be given by the business woman to the question of furs. If she decides to swathe her throat with boa or tippet when going to and from business, she will become a slave to the habit. The first time she lays aside the fur. she is likely to take cold. If she wears furs every day, they must be of the best quality, as nothing shows wear more quickly than a-cheap fur. Small neck scarfs of good, moleskin la an excellent Investment this season, but a muff is an abomination for dally use. The new kid gloves, for business wear -come lined with bright plaids in silk and wool, and afford an excellent substitute for a muff. Always have a perfectly plain hat such as a crush or Alpine shapo for wear on stormy days. It will save your good tai lored hat likewise your purse. Some Odd, New Conceits in Cushion Tops IN EFFECT of life may always be given to the one-color room by the Introduc tion of a sofa pillow of some brilliant or positive coloring. For the green room, the light or porcelain blue pillow, for the ivory-tinted room a scarlet pillow, and for the blue room a bronze cushion or the sunshine of a golden yellow pillow, these are artistic touches. The distinctive feature which tbe Fall shopper finds In th never too plenteous house furnishing, Is the use of enormous tassels at diagonal ends to finish the heavy rope cord around the edge. The bigger the tassels, the more In vogue the pillow, and though, together with the cords, they can bo had In all colors,, black forms1 the best frame, for tha artistic heads or .the spreading flowers which form the centers. An entire goat or calfskin, either tanned or tin tanned, forms a novel top, and la held fast to the pillow by leather strings run through eyelet holes in the skin and interlaced across the pillow's satin back. Burning-point and paint-brush make the tanned skins a background for the sharp features of a high-cheeked Indian or the full bloom of a California poppy, and not Infrequently scenes of country life, with the '.haymakers, the' lovesaakers and the funmakars, are shows. The girl who has blistered her hands and the hands of her friends trying to get sufficient needles from the knotty pi boughs to bring an odor of tie weeds te her city home will and larye and small oblongs in the coarsest of1 Uaa. erasfe, decorated In green and brews wtth pin cones and needle. The trends' mint: b first sewed Into a close n.thf "phOTO cloth bac On -a dark; rainy dair-wS of fiMi ixMfc qpMfeHuH you mom Data. Some girls get a good quality of rain coat and wear it every day to business. In which case they have an office dress, skirt and bodice, from the same ma terial. Shirtwaist suits .in lightweight cheviot, serge and novelty cloth, may be worn under such a coat, but the coat must be the very best of material and coloring to withstand daily wear. Ox ford gray and the new olive-green are perhaps tho best colorings, and care must be taken that the coat is not over trimmed. The general tendency of rainy day raiment this season, as in all gar ments feminine. Is toward over-trlmmingL Hav one semi-tailored costume which will serve forchurch wear, and with the addition of a dainty blouse for the thea ter. So not have it made with a train unless you expect to ride much In car riages. The really well-dressed woman this year has no train on her street gown. Of the many fabrics offered for such a suit, broadcloth, which never had such a satiny sheen as this year, and broad tall velour are probably ths most desir able. Broadcloth, in the end, win give the best wear, and lend Itself to making over, but the broadtail velour is .selling enormously for just such costumes as you will need. The skirt should not be over-trimmed, but the jacket should bo made in rather ornate fashion with a vest and braided reveres. "Wear with this for church a shirtwaist of plain or changeable silk, made with embroidered bands and French knots, with perhaps a touch of velvet In self-tone or a harmonious color. For the theater blouse, crepe da chine Js a most dependable fabric, and It la combined this year with lace insets sur rounded by French knots, tiny ruchlnga of ribbon, and a touch of panne velvet. If the waiat is to be worn very frequently, by all means get white, as It will coma pleasure of the steep mountain climb In search of the balsam. Nothing so pleases the heart of a college boy as a new pillow for his couch in the dormitory room, and the number which he has usually represents his Summer con quests and the nlmbleness of his slster8 fingers. The favorite design Is- a satin pillow In one of the shades of his univer sity flag, and In the center or one of the corners is the college shield heavily em bossed In embroidery of the second shade. Flag-shaped cushion, in the proper colors Toothsome Apple Dainties for the Winter MARY FOSTER SNIDER, in the No vember Housekeeper, gives the following delicious apple recipes: Apple snbw Pare and core sis good sized apples and steam them In two ta blespoonfuls water with a little lemon ;peel until quite soft. Add one-fourth pound finely sifted sugar, let cool, and whip in whites of two fresh -eggs. Beat well without stopping to a stiff snow, and serve heaped up in custard glasses with a star of red currant Jelly on top. Apple preserve Peel and core two deaea jao!um-sised apples, and place them la a jar with three pounds of fine white scigar and one-fourth pound grottad ginger distributed in layers. Let them remain two days, and daring "half that time 1st one-fourth pound brained gfager infuse In a pint boiling water. Strain, and boil the liquor with the applet for about an hour, adding another p-sd sugar. Skim well, and, wtoo the app r quite clear rmove ro the fire. . ak Jam Peel and cora the cpples, from the cleaner looking like new, while a delicately tinted waiat fades -with 'each cleanimr. "With a white waist. ' have a - touch" of. color ta stock and.' sVfiieZ such as orange, sapphire-blue or mauve. . The new crepe albatross is- the prettiest material imaginable, for your simple house dress, and it can be bought as cheaply as 39 cents a yard. If you want a loose garment, choose tha Empire styles, and have softening lace at the throat and on the sleeves. Tour Sunday tailored suit with the light waist will do for the church reception to whjch you refer, and your tailored skirt with a bright colored blouse, that is not too tight, la what you need for the bowl ing party. Personally, I thinlc every girl should have an evening dress, however simple it may be. This "Winter beauty of the evening dress Is largely a matter of hand work and trimming, and it Is really less expensive than a smartly tailored suit where the shopper pays for lines and finish. An inexpensive evening dress is made from net Inset with lace medallions, -which In turn are surrounded by tiny ruchlnga of ribbon. Have the bodice cut low-neck and short-sleeved, and then have made an extra guimp of the same material with a shirred yoke and mousquotalre sleeves, tight-fitting' at the wrist and fin ished with a ruchlng of the lace- This you can slip under the bodice of your dancing dress If the function is not for mal enough to demand decollete. Less expensive would 'be an evening gown of crepe veiling, as it can be lined with eilk-flnlshed lining, having a ' ruf fle of taffetas. Thi3 may be trimmed with lace Insets or ruffling, and plenty of French knots in self-tone, or one of the striking colors so popular this year. Every girl should learn how to make French knots as by their help she can beautify the simple gown, which should be fitted by a competent dressmaker. For wear with her best street gown the business woman may have an all velvet hat trimmed with the beautiful silk and velvet roses so popular this season. They are almost as expensive as feathers, but more durable and more novel. KATHERINE ANDERSON. and stamped with the names of any of the larger universities are attached at the points of the base by a rope cord finished with big tassels; so that the pillow can be hung over the back of a chair Ready-to-use stamped ruffling- can be bought in any shade, and ribbons of con trasting colors are also fagoted together to form an edging. Plaid scrim with out lined designs and lined with muslin of the predominating color in the plaid make pretty washable covers for cushions, and striped ruffling comes to match the plaid. them Into a preserving kettle, and to every pound fruit add three-quarters pound fine granulated, sugar,, and put in (tied in a piece of muslin) a few cloves, a small piece of ginger, and the thin rind of a lemon. Stir with a wood en spoon over a quick fire for 20 min utes or longer. If. the apples are juicy when sufficiently boiled the jam will cling to the spoon. Remove, the bag of apices, put the Jam into jars, and when suite cool seal. ICeeo in a cool, dry place Apple cheese cakes Pare, core and boil sufficient apples to make, 'half a pound when cooked. Add-to the.se one fourth pound sifted sugar and one fourth pound butter (which should be melted), four eggs (leaving put the whites of two), and the juice and grat ed rind. of one lemon. Beat the mixture well, and fill Into patty pans which have been lined with puff paste. Bake, in a hot oven. When done have the whites of the. two eggs &te& to stiff, froth with, four tablespoons powdered sugar. Plae lightly over tie cheesy cakes. than, return them to the oven JCer a 4