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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 21, 1903)
3G THE eOLLAK LESS SHIRTWAIST IT COMKNES COMFORT WITH BEAUTY AND HAS A COOL APPEARANCE AT ALL TIMES" E31BROIDERY MEDALLIONS MAKE A PRETTY 'ECK FINISH. A BAND OP APPIjIQXE POES SERVICE FOR A COLIiAR. ELBOW SLEEVES SEEM A FITTING ADJUNCT OF TUB COLLARLESS BLOUSE. J . i NEW styles appear with the excessive i heat which too often marks mid- J cedence over all other tnlngs; but the clever modistes have found a way to com hine lb with beauty. The result is the collarless blouse. The fashion started last year, and has had widespread growth. As the thermom eter mounts higher, collarless shirtwaists will multiply in number and increase in beauty. In net, dotted and plain; lace, embroidery and the sheerest of Summer fabrics; they will have a cool appearance in the hottest weather. White is the dominant color, though embroidery in color is used with dainty effect Even the heavier linens are made In CORRECT STYLES FOR YACHTING AND THE styles presented everywhere for yachting use strike the observer eye as much simpler than those worn last Summer. On the other hand, bathing clothes are more elaborate than ever, which Is saying a great deal, con sidering what fixy, costly things they have been for two seasons or more. Some lately imported "sea toilettes," as both yachting and bathing clothes are called by the French, strike a happy medium between the too much extrava gance and too much simplicity. True, bathing suits are short enough to show trousers which are unmistakably trousers those left loose below the knee have even a pantaletto look; and equally true it is that the Urst salt breeze would deplorably wilt the materials used for some of the yachting frocks. But the Summer girl must get used to bathing trousers, for after all it is more modest for them to be seen than not. And as for tiie yachting frocks in flimsy -materials, Jet her merely follow their lines and she will be all right. It Is quite evident from a few of the textures used that French women some times take their sailing trips .on dry land, so to speak. In form the gowns ere per fect, the skirts hanging with correct plainness and the blouse bodices suggest ing just enough of the jolly mariner not to seem exaggerations. But white and delicately tinted veilings, exquisitely fine, are seen, and linens, ducks and piques far too fragile in quality. Into these are also sometimes inserted the heavy laces and embroideries of the season, but though tho sensible maid will rebel at such frivolities, she cannot but admit that in form the French yachting frock is a dainty charmer. Rules laid down by good makers for yachting wear forbid flounced skirts and elaborate sleeves. Tffe skirt trimming may be put on with a flounce suggestion, but the model is gored to the hem and often weighted there with lead. As fur ther protection against the winds yacht ing skirts are also narrower than those worn in the street, and some of the kilted designs fit without a gather down the flare point, The prevailing sleeve of the Summer, the inverted mutton-leg, Is more seen than any other, but its size is always kept within sensible bounds. For the rest, sailor collars of all sorts are seen, and almost every bodice fastens at tne front with a soft nautical tie. The low 'canvas shoest which are pre ferred In white, have rubber soles, and the popular cap so nearly resembles the headpiece worn by man for the same service that they cannot bo told apart. Tho bluo flannel and white pique com bination of the masculine sailor is also imitated in some of the costumes, with the difference that the feminine coat gen erally sports brass buttons of the bright est hue. The pique skirt has strapped seams and a, heavily stitched deep hem. A coarse wool bunting, introducing the uneven weave of the flag quality, is em ployed for some of the most serviceable frocks. Bands, belts and collars and cuffs In plain color provide neat and effective ornamentation, and in the way of color effects red and white is a combination much seen. .Some all red bunting gowns are also observed, but dark blue is more frequently noticed than any other color, and the old white trimmings continue to embellish it A number of yachting frocks made for the opening of the season, which is gen erally in July, showe the predilection of the smart world for this time-honored combination. Gowns la flannel, duck, bunting, plqne and linen all present the homely blue and white effect, and designs -were so simple that It looked as if the fashionable -world must think anything else vulgar. It Is astonishing how unpretentious- smart women often ire in the clothes dffaea for all outing occasion. the collarless fashion. They are more durable and hold their shape better than the thinner materials. They are usually ornamented with hemstitching, drawn work or embroidery. A simple linen bjouse is striped with bands of drawn work half an Inch wide. These run three inches apart, up and down on the waist, and around the arm on the sleeves. The sleeves are elbow length, each finished by a narrow shaped frill edged with the drawn work. A short round collar of solid drawn work finishes the neck. A similar waist was finished at the throat by a black satin string tie and a turnover collar of drawn work. This Is a novel way of converting a stock shirtwaist Into a collarless one. The eatin tie may be of any? shade, and the turnover of lace or embroidery shows to good advantage over it. The woman with a round, columnar .'JjCz&ieS''" '.-'." I So when one comes across a frivolous yachting frock, furbelowed and foolish to the top notch, the mind pictures It with a pair of uneasy sea legs. Only a novice In SOMETHING NEW IN FANCY SELDOM It it that anything can be chronicled as absolutely new In the line of fancy work for women, but raflla for embroidery comes under that head. It has never been used until this year. It Is effective work, simple for any one who has the slightest idea of em broidery, and Is less expensive than any. thing done in silks. Madagascar straw is a name under which it sometimes mas querades. Raflla for women's work of any kind is sufficiently new not to have definition in the dictionaries except in Its use in Madagascar for mats and as a fiber for horticulturists, who use it for tying stalks of flowers and plants to their supports. The toughness and suppleness, which make it useful for them, make It valuable for fancy work. The basket-makers discovered Its value when it was difficult to obtain. The first women to have the basket-making fad begged the raflla of their florists and dyed it themselves, if they wished col ors. Uow that Its value for needlework as well as basket-making has been discov ered, many of the large stores keep sup plies on hand, though this Is the first season they have done so. It Is to be found in beautiful colors. There are rich shades of orange, deep reds, strong greens and- blues, hUotropeet black nd th nat THE SUNDAY b , ; 1 - throat can rejoice in these collarless waists, but for her who is less fortunate there are standing frills at the neck which are cool and becoming. There are also boned collars of open work lace, or ribbon or lace lattice work. A dainty blouse of white mull has an over-bodice of black lace insertion ! lattice work, through whose Interstices the white mull folds look delightfully cool. . The collar is also of the lace lat tice work. A strip of applique In an open design often forms an apology for a collar. It ! is unboned, as are the collars on most ! of the all-over lace waists. These are j formed of a wide strip of lace insertion and crush down in the wearing. One of the applique collars is used on a waist of Persian lawn. The blouse is ornamented with wide tucks of the material and with inch-wide lace in- :::'r - . - ".:: ..--: POPULAR YACHTING SUITS marine pleasures would buy such a gown, or expect to be happy in It, for rolling decks, salt sprays and brisk winds require toggery that will stand wear. ural shades, different tones of ecru and paler straw colors. For embroidery buckram or a coarse vcanvas is used with the raffia. A pat tern is stamped as for work with other materials, and the fiber works In with great rapidity. One of the most beautiful pieces of embroidery done this year was a center piece with deep red lilies worked on green buckranu It was large, nearly a yard in diameter, and the flowers were put on in a circle around the edge. The materials cost only $1-25. The canvas, ready stamped, costs $1, and five hanks of the raffia IS cents. So far, only centerpieces and pillow cases have been embroidered with the raflla, but there is no limit to the uses to which it may be put, and buckram screens would be delightful worked in It. Pillows have seemed to be less attract ive than centerpieces, but that Is the fault of the designs. One large pillow is worked in a cherry design, a basket of the fruit and foliage with the basket In natural tones of the fiber. Green buck ram was used. This was not sewed to gether at the edges, but the two squares forming the cover were faced down on the inside with red buckram and fastened -with strands of the raflla in the natural color run in and out. as if in big basting stitches s. few Inches Inside the edge, tying In a bowknot, at one corner. Another- pillow- deeiga of o&lsUs OBEGOfflAN, POETLAITO, sertlon- Two of the tucks meet to form the pleat effect down the front. On either side rows of the Insertion alternate with clusters of the tucks. The Insertion Is fancifully applied above the bust to give j a round yoke effect. A wide tuck, headed j by a band of the Insertion, runs around J the arm six Inches below the top of the I sleeve. A similar trimming emphasizes ! the. puff Just above the moderately nar row, tight-fitting cuff. This is formed of the tucks and insertion. The blouse is fastened down the back with small pearl buttons. Something of the collarless lace effect Is obtained in the blouses which have a narrow standing collar of openwork lace, which Is continued down In a shal low ropnded or pointed yoke. The collar line, so unbecoming to many throats, is thus done away with. A cool-blouse of wash silk Is made with a certain girlish simplicity. It is almost BATHING CLOTHES The under-rlgglng necessary for correct yachting gowns also leans to the practical, for more bloomers are worn than petti coats, and no attempt at ornamenting NEEDLEWORK done In the natural colors of tho fiber and the centers filled in with French knots in the raffia. An embroidered bow knot in black has the effect of tying the stems of the daisies. Still another pillow has the .entire sur face of one side embroidered In a design of wheat In the natural colors of the raffia, and a braid of raflla Is sewed around the cushion a little Inside the edge to give a finish. For making hats and baskets the same kind of raflla Is used, and there are rat tan rods, some dyed to match the colors of the fiber and others In natural tones to use for foundations. Simple hats and baskets are easily made. Hats are usually made In the natural color of the raffia. If It is slightly damp ened It will work to better advantage. The natural raflla Is less expensive than the dyed, and three or four times the amount can be bought for the cost of a small bunch of the colored. A long braid of the raffia must first be plaited, fine or coarse, as may be desired. When this is done a tapestry needle is threaded with a strand of raffia, the end of the braid wound two or three times around one end. the edge being up. Tee needle is then run slanting through the braids, down from right to left,., and then up from right to left, making a V-shaped, stitch. The braid Is then colled and stitched -until a sphere large JUifE 21, 1903. A HOT tlght-flttlng. only Mousing slightly in the front over a deep belt of silk. The latter Is rather unusual. It is slashed at inter vals to allow flowered ribon In pastel shades to be run through and tied In the back In a bow with long loops and ends. The shallow, oddly pointed yoke and the narrow standing collar are in one piece of heavy white lace. The elbow sleeves puff slightly at the bottom over a loose frill cuff of the, lace. Elbow sleeves seem the fitting accom paniment of the .collarless blouse. A geisha waist of white India linen has elbow sleeves finished by wide ruffles. The linen Is tucked to form a yoke. The fullness over the bust is furnished by Inch-wide bands of embroidery Inserted between the clusters of tucks. Each band Is headed by an embroidery medallion In a peacock pattern. Larger medallions are set as a finish around the neck. The sleeves are vertically tucked and the wide, them Is made. Wash silks, either In the color of the costume or in black, are used for them. Pretty and novel yachting details are enough for the crown of the hat Is made. To form the sides of the hat, the braid, as it is coiled, is sewed to the center of the one above, and so on until the proper depth is obtained. For the rim the braid is flattened out and sewed. If .the plaits are pulled a. little tight on the edge, the rim will rolL Simple baskets are made like -the crown of the hat. A plaited handle can be added. Baskets and hats made over the rattan reeds are more elaborate. The simple hats can be bent into any shape desired and are light and picturesque. Many pretty things can be made of this Inexpensive material knotted work bags, to be lined with ellk, twine bags, and table mats, to give a bit of color in or ange, red or green. Pee aad the Manager. A well-known theatrical manager, who Is distinguished rather for his business ability than for his knowledge of liter ature, was visited not long ago by an aspiring playwright.' He had with him, he explained to the manager, the manu script of a play based on one of Edgar Al len Poe's etorIe3, which he was sure was destined to make a sensational hit on the stage. The manager consented to hear tho play, and listened with increasing in terest as the playwright read from his manuscript. He was enthusiastic when the end was reached. "That's fine!" he exclaimed "fine! How rn. tell you what I'll do; You and Mr. Foe come in tomorrow and we'll talk this thing oywv" WEATHER FAT) THE SHEEREST MATERIAL AND HEAVIER LINENS ARE MADE IN THE COLLARLESS FASHION hemstitched ruffles are pleated a trifle at the inside arm seam to relieve them of clumsiness. Another elbow sleeve blouse Is of white Persian lawn. A wide strip of embroid enry. flanked by inch-wide hemstitched tucks, gives a panel effect to the front. Shorter embroidery strips and hemstitched tuck3 extend down to the bust line on each side. Embroidery finishes the round neck. The sleeves are vertically tucked and their ruffles are finished with hem stitching. Strips of the embroider' or applique are frequently set on the blouse, ray fashion, to give the effect of a round yoke. They extend a trifle above the neck and form a finish. A chic blouse of pale blue dimity Is thus trimmed with white applique in a daisy chain pattern. The strips- are. set on the tucked yoke so that they meet around the neck. The elbow sleeves puff THEY STRIKE A 'HAPPY MEDIUM BETWEEN. TOO MUCH EXTRAVAGANCE AND TOO MUCH SIMPLICITY seen in belts, stockings ana caps, which last are soft wool "Tarns" on the bereh order. The belts are of white and colored ducks and piques, with sometimes a con trasting band. In plain or spotted stuff, down the middle. They are extremely narrow at the tongue portion and gilt harness buckles give them a pretty fin ish. The stockings to put it mildly are loud. With the most brilliant colors there are pronounced piebald effects In pattern, open-worked Insteps and elaborate clock ings, all of which magnificently made up for the plain frock worn with them. The sex is nothing if not inconsistent, but when it is considered, that fancy stockings do not interfere with the business In hand the present lapse may be explained. Far below the surface of things there is gen erally a reason for .woman's madness; and Incidentally the rest of this 'reason Is that the gay stockings are really fetch ing. Going from this dry-sea pleasuring to the wet sort, one feel3 Inclined to marvel at the frivolity of the fashionable bathing girl. Her salt dips will be taken in noth ing else than silk; satin and brilliantine of the gayest pattern. The little suits which these rich textures realize are also most elaborately made, ribbon lacings, stitched bands and tucks and shirrlngs knocking, all preconceived notions of salt -water exigencies on the head. The old bluo flannel hathing suit of baggy make and shrinking ' tendency 13 conspicuous by its absence. In Its place the new models suggest, with their short puff sleeves and smartly flared skirts, stage shirtwaist gowns of French doll dresses. The Mousing bodices, which are as long walsted as those for street wear, are gir dled tautly into corseted waists by gay wash belts. Many bodices are high In the neck, but the sailor collars of others roll away from an open V of. modest depth, or the neck may be cut out round or square. In no case is the bathing decol letage very low, though the sleeves are invariably the shortest puffs, and the skirts are of the most abbreviated de scription, for here, as well as against stockings, which imitate socks, the line of taste is drawn. Some regard for pro priety, as the beach signs put It is the first and only commandment for bathing clothes. A number of the best shops are showing THE heavy, white counterpane is being consigned to .the "not-ln-use" trunk In the attic more -than ever this Sum mer. In Its place- on the bed a dainty coverlet of lace is spread over a color to harmonize with the decorations of the room. Nor Is the old-time bolster with Its white muslin slip often seen in a sleeping room which has any pretensions to up-to-dateness. A long wooden or papier mache roll has displaced it. tBoth of these new bedroom accessories have an advantage over the old style. In the first place, the lace spread with an under-covering lends itself more easl ly to the color scheme of the apartment than did the counterpane. The latter comes only In three shades pink, blue and white. For less expense one Is able to make a prettier room in this way than with the old-fashioned style. The lace spread with the roll does not need shams, as the counterpane does, as It Is thrown over the entire bed. Organdies and muslins are being very largely used for bed coverings by prac ticaf housewives this Summer. Thev are 9 Inexpensive and more durable than a cheap lace. Of course, the more elabo rate lacee, such as Irish point, renais sance, Marie Antoinette and the cluny patterns,, are always in use. The fad of antique laces teg extendi .this Sesame; , FASHIONS FOR THE BEDROOM ' above full ruffles, of the material. They are ornamented with strips of the ap plique. Scattered daisies are set at in tervals on the edge of the ruffles. Daisies, whether of hand embroidery or applique, are favorite flowers on Sum mer waists. When they are embroidered In the natural colors they are 'extremely pretty. The desire for drawn work on the Sum mer blouses has brought about the dis covery that Mexican drawn work dollies can be used as a dress trimming. A. chain of small square dollies can be' applied to form a panel front. They are set on diag onally. Smaller doilies finish the neck or ornament the bust line on either side of the front. Small Mexican drawn work wheels can now be obtained for dress trimmings. Entire yokes are made of them. They are often joined by fancy stitching, thus giving an even more cob webby effect, HARRIET HAWLEY. bathing suits patterned accurately after the French models,, all of which allow the trousers' to appear below- the edge of the skirt. The American method of hav ing them hidden by the skirt Is consid ered -on the other side a little shocking, for this graphic English word, which has been added to the French vocabulary, is now frequently used against us. With the imported suits go gay silk handkerchiefs or oiled silk caps for the head, or maybe coquettish pique hats which are not expected to take the watery dip. The strings of these tie child-fashion under the chin, and the wearer of such a pretty headpiece will doubtless content herself with merely wetting her equally pretty ankles. A black satin suit with scarlet bands presents one stylish scheme of color, and a blue and white checked brilliantine with black ribbon lacings another. More than one of these suits is provided with a bril liantly tinted sash of silk, satin, pongee or brilliantine, which encircles the waist, knots at the left side, and there falls In long ends. One smart little brilliantine frock, whose bodlco sported a tucked shirt yoke, displayed this sash in spotted red and white silk. The head handkerchief matched and plain scarlet stockings were advised for the get-up. A word further as to scarlet bathing stockings everybody may not sport them, however stylish they are. Red has some how a magnifying quality, so thick ankles had better cling to black, which is always "slimming" In tendency. Cotton stock ings of moderate weight are better than the thin gauze lisle ones more frequently worn. For the trip from the bathhouse to the water, French makers supply long- cloaks of soft flannel and strap sandals of canvas or leather, which are delightful coquetries In themselves. In buying them It should be remembered that the cloak and sandals must match in color. The clumsy bath ing stockings provided with cork soles are worn only by Aunt Amandjas and Cousin Sallies from Podunk. Bathing suits for children follow the old sensible lines and simple textures. Unshrinkable blue flannels with white braid trimmings are used for both sexes, with a mixture of cotton and wool In a mottled weave, by way of a new mate rial. But flannel Is the favorite texture, and blue and white the popular combina tion as ever. MARY DEAN, Into the bedroom, and many girls have adopted it for coverlets and curtains. One of the reasons for the popularity of bolster rolls made of a material on which it is Impossible to sleep, is that they take away from the temptation to sleep on a pillow. Many women folks are depriving themselves of this comfortable, if curve-destroying, luxury. A large number of the Summer cover lets are made of a soft, figured silk, ruf fled all around the edge. Persian designs are popular. Pretty little half-size quilts, made of a shade of satin to harmonize with the color of the room, are finding their way to the Summer bedroom for cool nights. During the day they are thrown over tne foot of the bed, however over the TToot-plece, as was once the fashion. The brass or enamel footpiece of the modern bed Is not meant to be concealed, even by a dainty satin cover. Sometimes pillow shams, are used with the lace coverlet Instead of the Toll, but they are less practical and much, more difficult to attach. A new bed la of a heavy braes design In Ecotch finish. It is dull in finish and the ends of the bars, instead of beinff round or pointed, are flat , like pillars. "With this bed, yellow is a favorite, color for the curtalnsTn the room and the under cover and holster roll. The average annual temperature ofL. Sitka-ABd. Omah-4s the sem.