3G
THE eOLLAK LESS SHIRTWAIST
IT COMKNES COMFORT WITH
BEAUTY AND HAS A COOL APPEARANCE
AT ALL TIMES"
E31BROIDERY MEDALLIONS MAKE A PRETTY 'ECK FINISH. A BAND OP APPIjIQXE POES SERVICE FOR A COLIiAR. ELBOW SLEEVES SEEM A FITTING ADJUNCT OF TUB COLLARLESS BLOUSE.
J . i
NEW styles appear with the excessive i
heat which too often marks mid- J
cedence over all other tnlngs; but the
clever modistes have found a way to com
hine lb with beauty. The result is the
collarless blouse.
The fashion started last year, and has
had widespread growth. As the thermom
eter mounts higher, collarless shirtwaists
will multiply in number and increase in
beauty. In net, dotted and plain; lace,
embroidery and the sheerest of Summer
fabrics; they will have a cool appearance
in the hottest weather.
White is the dominant color, though
embroidery in color is used with dainty
effect
Even the heavier linens are made In
CORRECT STYLES FOR YACHTING AND
THE styles presented everywhere for
yachting use strike the observer
eye as much simpler than those
worn last Summer. On the other hand,
bathing clothes are more elaborate than
ever, which Is saying a great deal, con
sidering what fixy, costly things they
have been for two seasons or more.
Some lately imported "sea toilettes,"
as both yachting and bathing clothes are
called by the French, strike a happy
medium between the too much extrava
gance and too much simplicity. True,
bathing suits are short enough to show
trousers which are unmistakably trousers
those left loose below the knee have
even a pantaletto look; and equally
true it is that the Urst salt breeze would
deplorably wilt the materials used for
some of the yachting frocks. But the
Summer girl must get used to bathing
trousers, for after all it is more modest
for them to be seen than not. And as
for tiie yachting frocks in flimsy -materials,
Jet her merely follow their lines and
she will be all right.
It Is quite evident from a few of the
textures used that French women some
times take their sailing trips .on dry land,
so to speak. In form the gowns ere per
fect, the skirts hanging with correct
plainness and the blouse bodices suggest
ing just enough of the jolly mariner not
to seem exaggerations. But white and
delicately tinted veilings, exquisitely fine,
are seen, and linens, ducks and piques
far too fragile in quality. Into these are
also sometimes inserted the heavy laces
and embroideries of the season, but
though tho sensible maid will rebel at
such frivolities, she cannot but admit
that in form the French yachting frock
is a dainty charmer.
Rules laid down by good makers for
yachting wear forbid flounced skirts and
elaborate sleeves. Tffe skirt trimming
may be put on with a flounce suggestion,
but the model is gored to the hem and
often weighted there with lead. As fur
ther protection against the winds yacht
ing skirts are also narrower than those
worn in the street, and some of the
kilted designs fit without a gather down
the flare point,
The prevailing sleeve of the Summer,
the inverted mutton-leg, Is more seen
than any other, but its size is always
kept within sensible bounds. For the rest,
sailor collars of all sorts are seen, and
almost every bodice fastens at tne front
with a soft nautical tie.
The low 'canvas shoest which are pre
ferred In white, have rubber soles, and
the popular cap so nearly resembles the
headpiece worn by man for the same
service that they cannot bo told apart.
Tho bluo flannel and white pique com
bination of the masculine sailor is also
imitated in some of the costumes, with
the difference that the feminine coat gen
erally sports brass buttons of the bright
est hue. The pique skirt has strapped
seams and a, heavily stitched deep hem.
A coarse wool bunting, introducing the
uneven weave of the flag quality, is em
ployed for some of the most serviceable
frocks. Bands, belts and collars and cuffs
In plain color provide neat and effective
ornamentation, and in the way of color
effects red and white is a combination
much seen. .Some all red bunting gowns
are also observed, but dark blue is more
frequently noticed than any other color,
and the old white trimmings continue to
embellish it
A number of yachting frocks made for
the opening of the season, which is gen
erally in July, showe the predilection of
the smart world for this time-honored
combination. Gowns la flannel, duck,
bunting, plqne and linen all present the
homely blue and white effect, and designs
-were so simple that It looked as if the
fashionable -world must think anything
else vulgar. It Is astonishing how unpretentious-
smart women often ire in the
clothes dffaea for all outing occasion.
the collarless fashion. They are more
durable and hold their shape better
than the thinner materials. They are
usually ornamented with hemstitching,
drawn work or embroidery.
A simple linen bjouse is striped with
bands of drawn work half an Inch
wide. These run three inches apart, up
and down on the waist, and around the
arm on the sleeves. The sleeves are
elbow length, each finished by a narrow
shaped frill edged with the drawn work.
A short round collar of solid drawn work
finishes the neck.
A similar waist was finished at the
throat by a black satin string tie and
a turnover collar of drawn work. This
Is a novel way of converting a stock
shirtwaist Into a collarless one. The
eatin tie may be of any? shade, and
the turnover of lace or embroidery shows
to good advantage over it.
The woman with a round, columnar
.'JjCz&ieS''" '.-'."
I
So when one comes across a frivolous
yachting frock, furbelowed and foolish to
the top notch, the mind pictures It with a
pair of uneasy sea legs. Only a novice In
SOMETHING NEW IN FANCY
SELDOM It it that anything can be
chronicled as absolutely new In the
line of fancy work for women, but
raflla for embroidery comes under that
head. It has never been used until this
year. It Is effective work, simple for any
one who has the slightest idea of em
broidery, and Is less expensive than any.
thing done in silks. Madagascar straw is
a name under which it sometimes mas
querades. Raflla for women's work of any kind
is sufficiently new not to have definition
in the dictionaries except in Its use in
Madagascar for mats and as a fiber for
horticulturists, who use it for tying stalks
of flowers and plants to their supports.
The toughness and suppleness, which
make it useful for them, make It valuable
for fancy work.
The basket-makers discovered Its value
when it was difficult to obtain. The first
women to have the basket-making fad
begged the raflla of their florists and
dyed it themselves, if they wished col
ors. Uow that Its value for needlework as
well as basket-making has been discov
ered, many of the large stores keep sup
plies on hand, though this Is the first
season they have done so. It Is to be
found in beautiful colors. There are rich
shades of orange, deep reds, strong greens
and- blues, hUotropeet black nd th nat
THE SUNDAY
b , ; 1 -
throat can rejoice in these collarless
waists, but for her who is less fortunate
there are standing frills at the neck
which are cool and becoming. There
are also boned collars of open work
lace, or ribbon or lace lattice work.
A dainty blouse of white mull has
an over-bodice of black lace insertion !
lattice work, through whose Interstices
the white mull folds look delightfully
cool. . The collar is also of the lace lat
tice work.
A strip of applique In an open design
often forms an apology for a collar. It
! is unboned, as are the collars on most
! of the all-over lace waists. These are
j formed of a wide strip of lace insertion
and crush down in the wearing.
One of the applique collars is used
on a waist of Persian lawn. The blouse
is ornamented with wide tucks of the
material and with inch-wide lace in-
:::'r - . - ".:: ..--:
POPULAR YACHTING SUITS
marine pleasures would buy such a gown,
or expect to be happy in It, for rolling
decks, salt sprays and brisk winds require
toggery that will stand wear.
ural shades, different tones of ecru and
paler straw colors.
For embroidery buckram or a coarse
vcanvas is used with the raffia. A pat
tern is stamped as for work with other
materials, and the fiber works In with
great rapidity.
One of the most beautiful pieces of
embroidery done this year was a center
piece with deep red lilies worked on
green buckranu It was large, nearly a
yard in diameter, and the flowers were
put on in a circle around the edge. The
materials cost only $1-25. The canvas,
ready stamped, costs $1, and five hanks
of the raffia IS cents.
So far, only centerpieces and pillow
cases have been embroidered with the
raflla, but there is no limit to the uses
to which it may be put, and buckram
screens would be delightful worked in It.
Pillows have seemed to be less attract
ive than centerpieces, but that Is the fault
of the designs. One large pillow is
worked in a cherry design, a basket of
the fruit and foliage with the basket In
natural tones of the fiber. Green buck
ram was used. This was not sewed to
gether at the edges, but the two squares
forming the cover were faced down on
the inside with red buckram and fastened
-with strands of the raflla in the natural
color run in and out. as if in big basting
stitches s. few Inches Inside the edge,
tying In a bowknot, at one corner.
Another- pillow- deeiga of o&lsUs
OBEGOfflAN, POETLAITO,
sertlon- Two of the tucks meet to form
the pleat effect down the front. On either
side rows of the Insertion alternate with
clusters of the tucks. The Insertion Is
fancifully applied above the bust to give j
a round yoke effect. A wide tuck, headed j
by a band of the Insertion, runs around J
the arm six Inches below the top of the I
sleeve. A similar trimming emphasizes !
the. puff Just above the moderately nar
row, tight-fitting cuff. This is formed
of the tucks and insertion. The blouse is
fastened down the back with small pearl
buttons.
Something of the collarless lace effect
Is obtained in the blouses which have
a narrow standing collar of openwork
lace, which Is continued down In a shal
low ropnded or pointed yoke. The collar
line, so unbecoming to many throats,
is thus done away with.
A cool-blouse of wash silk Is made with
a certain girlish simplicity. It is almost
BATHING CLOTHES
The under-rlgglng necessary for correct
yachting gowns also leans to the practical,
for more bloomers are worn than petti
coats, and no attempt at ornamenting
NEEDLEWORK
done In the natural colors of tho fiber
and the centers filled in with French
knots in the raffia. An embroidered bow
knot in black has the effect of tying the
stems of the daisies.
Still another pillow has the .entire sur
face of one side embroidered In a design
of wheat In the natural colors of the
raffia, and a braid of raflla Is sewed
around the cushion a little Inside the
edge to give a finish.
For making hats and baskets the same
kind of raflla Is used, and there are rat
tan rods, some dyed to match the colors
of the fiber and others In natural tones
to use for foundations.
Simple hats and baskets are easily
made.
Hats are usually made In the natural
color of the raffia. If It is slightly damp
ened It will work to better advantage.
The natural raflla Is less expensive than
the dyed, and three or four times the
amount can be bought for the cost of a
small bunch of the colored.
A long braid of the raffia must first be
plaited, fine or coarse, as may be desired.
When this is done a tapestry needle is
threaded with a strand of raffia, the end
of the braid wound two or three times
around one end. the edge being up. Tee
needle is then run slanting through the
braids, down from right to left,., and
then up from right to left, making
a V-shaped, stitch. The braid Is then
colled and stitched -until a sphere large
JUifE 21, 1903.
A HOT
tlght-flttlng. only Mousing slightly in the
front over a deep belt of silk. The latter
Is rather unusual. It is slashed at inter
vals to allow flowered ribon In pastel
shades to be run through and tied In
the back In a bow with long loops and
ends. The shallow, oddly pointed yoke
and the narrow standing collar are in
one piece of heavy white lace. The elbow
sleeves puff slightly at the bottom over a
loose frill cuff of the, lace.
Elbow sleeves seem the fitting accom
paniment of the .collarless blouse. A
geisha waist of white India linen has
elbow sleeves finished by wide ruffles.
The linen Is tucked to form a yoke. The
fullness over the bust is furnished by
Inch-wide bands of embroidery Inserted
between the clusters of tucks. Each band
Is headed by an embroidery medallion In
a peacock pattern. Larger medallions are
set as a finish around the neck. The
sleeves are vertically tucked and the wide,
them Is made. Wash silks, either In the
color of the costume or in black, are used
for them.
Pretty and novel yachting details are
enough for the crown of the hat Is
made.
To form the sides of the hat, the braid,
as it is coiled, is sewed to the center of
the one above, and so on until the proper
depth is obtained. For the rim the braid
is flattened out and sewed. If .the plaits
are pulled a. little tight on the edge, the
rim will rolL
Simple baskets are made like -the crown
of the hat. A plaited handle can be
added.
Baskets and hats made over the rattan
reeds are more elaborate. The simple
hats can be bent into any shape desired
and are light and picturesque.
Many pretty things can be made of this
Inexpensive material knotted work bags,
to be lined with ellk, twine bags, and
table mats, to give a bit of color in or
ange, red or green.
Pee aad the Manager.
A well-known theatrical manager, who
Is distinguished rather for his business
ability than for his knowledge of liter
ature, was visited not long ago by an
aspiring playwright.' He had with him,
he explained to the manager, the manu
script of a play based on one of Edgar Al
len Poe's etorIe3, which he was sure was
destined to make a sensational hit on the
stage. The manager consented to hear
tho play, and listened with increasing in
terest as the playwright read from his
manuscript.
He was enthusiastic when the end was
reached.
"That's fine!" he exclaimed "fine! How
rn. tell you what I'll do; You and Mr.
Foe come in tomorrow and we'll talk this
thing oywv"
WEATHER FAT)
THE SHEEREST MATERIAL AND
HEAVIER LINENS ARE MADE IN THE
COLLARLESS FASHION
hemstitched ruffles are pleated a trifle at
the inside arm seam to relieve them of
clumsiness.
Another elbow sleeve blouse Is of white
Persian lawn. A wide strip of embroid
enry. flanked by inch-wide hemstitched
tucks, gives a panel effect to the front.
Shorter embroidery strips and hemstitched
tuck3 extend down to the bust line on
each side. Embroidery finishes the round
neck. The sleeves are vertically tucked
and their ruffles are finished with hem
stitching. Strips of the embroider' or applique are
frequently set on the blouse, ray fashion,
to give the effect of a round yoke. They
extend a trifle above the neck and form
a finish.
A chic blouse of pale blue dimity Is
thus trimmed with white applique in a
daisy chain pattern. The strips- are. set
on the tucked yoke so that they meet
around the neck. The elbow sleeves puff
THEY STRIKE A 'HAPPY MEDIUM BETWEEN. TOO MUCH EXTRAVAGANCE
AND TOO MUCH SIMPLICITY
seen in belts, stockings ana caps, which
last are soft wool "Tarns" on the bereh
order. The belts are of white and colored
ducks and piques, with sometimes a con
trasting band. In plain or spotted stuff,
down the middle. They are extremely
narrow at the tongue portion and gilt
harness buckles give them a pretty fin
ish. The stockings to put it mildly are
loud. With the most brilliant colors there
are pronounced piebald effects In pattern,
open-worked Insteps and elaborate clock
ings, all of which magnificently made up
for the plain frock worn with them. The
sex is nothing if not inconsistent, but
when it is considered, that fancy stockings
do not interfere with the business In hand
the present lapse may be explained. Far
below the surface of things there is gen
erally a reason for .woman's madness;
and Incidentally the rest of this 'reason
Is that the gay stockings are really fetch
ing. Going from this dry-sea pleasuring to
the wet sort, one feel3 Inclined to marvel
at the frivolity of the fashionable bathing
girl. Her salt dips will be taken in noth
ing else than silk; satin and brilliantine
of the gayest pattern. The little suits
which these rich textures realize are also
most elaborately made, ribbon lacings,
stitched bands and tucks and shirrlngs
knocking, all preconceived notions of salt
-water exigencies on the head.
The old bluo flannel hathing suit of
baggy make and shrinking ' tendency 13
conspicuous by its absence. In Its place
the new models suggest, with their short
puff sleeves and smartly flared skirts,
stage shirtwaist gowns of French doll
dresses.
The Mousing bodices, which are as long
walsted as those for street wear, are gir
dled tautly into corseted waists by gay
wash belts. Many bodices are high In the
neck, but the sailor collars of others roll
away from an open V of. modest depth,
or the neck may be cut out round or
square. In no case is the bathing decol
letage very low, though the sleeves are
invariably the shortest puffs, and the
skirts are of the most abbreviated de
scription, for here, as well as against
stockings, which imitate socks, the line of
taste is drawn. Some regard for pro
priety, as the beach signs put It is the
first and only commandment for bathing
clothes.
A number of the best shops are showing
THE heavy, white counterpane is being
consigned to .the "not-ln-use" trunk
In the attic more -than ever this Sum
mer. In Its place- on the bed a dainty
coverlet of lace is spread over a color
to harmonize with the decorations of the
room.
Nor Is the old-time bolster with Its
white muslin slip often seen in a sleeping
room which has any pretensions to up-to-dateness.
A long wooden or papier
mache roll has displaced it.
tBoth of these new bedroom accessories
have an advantage over the old style.
In the first place, the lace spread with
an under-covering lends itself more easl
ly to the color scheme of the apartment
than did the counterpane. The latter
comes only In three shades pink, blue
and white. For less expense one Is able
to make a prettier room in this way than
with the old-fashioned style. The lace
spread with the roll does not need shams,
as the counterpane does, as It Is thrown
over the entire bed.
Organdies and muslins are being very
largely used for bed coverings by prac
ticaf housewives this Summer. Thev are
9 Inexpensive and more durable than a
cheap lace. Of course, the more elabo
rate lacee, such as Irish point, renais
sance, Marie Antoinette and the cluny
patterns,, are always in use. The fad of
antique laces teg extendi .this Sesame;
, FASHIONS FOR THE BEDROOM '
above full ruffles, of the material. They
are ornamented with strips of the ap
plique. Scattered daisies are set at in
tervals on the edge of the ruffles.
Daisies, whether of hand embroidery or
applique, are favorite flowers on Sum
mer waists. When they are embroidered
In the natural colors they are 'extremely
pretty.
The desire for drawn work on the Sum
mer blouses has brought about the dis
covery that Mexican drawn work dollies
can be used as a dress trimming. A. chain
of small square dollies can be' applied to
form a panel front. They are set on diag
onally. Smaller doilies finish the neck or
ornament the bust line on either side of
the front. Small Mexican drawn work
wheels can now be obtained for dress
trimmings. Entire yokes are made of
them. They are often joined by fancy
stitching, thus giving an even more cob
webby effect, HARRIET HAWLEY.
bathing suits patterned accurately after
the French models,, all of which allow
the trousers' to appear below- the edge of
the skirt. The American method of hav
ing them hidden by the skirt Is consid
ered -on the other side a little shocking,
for this graphic English word, which has
been added to the French vocabulary, is
now frequently used against us.
With the imported suits go gay silk
handkerchiefs or oiled silk caps for the
head, or maybe coquettish pique hats
which are not expected to take the watery
dip. The strings of these tie child-fashion
under the chin, and the wearer of
such a pretty headpiece will doubtless
content herself with merely wetting her
equally pretty ankles.
A black satin suit with scarlet bands
presents one stylish scheme of color, and
a blue and white checked brilliantine with
black ribbon lacings another. More than
one of these suits is provided with a bril
liantly tinted sash of silk, satin, pongee
or brilliantine, which encircles the waist,
knots at the left side, and there falls In
long ends. One smart little brilliantine
frock, whose bodlco sported a tucked shirt
yoke, displayed this sash in spotted red
and white silk. The head handkerchief
matched and plain scarlet stockings were
advised for the get-up.
A word further as to scarlet bathing
stockings everybody may not sport them,
however stylish they are. Red has some
how a magnifying quality, so thick ankles
had better cling to black, which is always
"slimming" In tendency. Cotton stock
ings of moderate weight are better than
the thin gauze lisle ones more frequently
worn.
For the trip from the bathhouse to the
water, French makers supply long- cloaks
of soft flannel and strap sandals of canvas
or leather, which are delightful coquetries
In themselves. In buying them It should
be remembered that the cloak and sandals
must match in color. The clumsy bath
ing stockings provided with cork soles
are worn only by Aunt Amandjas and
Cousin Sallies from Podunk.
Bathing suits for children follow the
old sensible lines and simple textures.
Unshrinkable blue flannels with white
braid trimmings are used for both sexes,
with a mixture of cotton and wool In a
mottled weave, by way of a new mate
rial. But flannel Is the favorite texture,
and blue and white the popular combina
tion as ever. MARY DEAN,
Into the bedroom, and many girls have
adopted it for coverlets and curtains.
One of the reasons for the popularity
of bolster rolls made of a material on
which it is Impossible to sleep, is that
they take away from the temptation to
sleep on a pillow. Many women folks are
depriving themselves of this comfortable,
if curve-destroying, luxury.
A large number of the Summer cover
lets are made of a soft, figured silk, ruf
fled all around the edge. Persian designs
are popular.
Pretty little half-size quilts, made of
a shade of satin to harmonize with the
color of the room, are finding their way
to the Summer bedroom for cool nights.
During the day they are thrown over
tne foot of the bed, however over the
TToot-plece, as was once the fashion. The
brass or enamel footpiece of the modern
bed Is not meant to be concealed, even
by a dainty satin cover.
Sometimes pillow shams, are used with
the lace coverlet Instead of the Toll, but
they are less practical and much, more
difficult to attach.
A new bed la of a heavy braes design
In Ecotch finish. It is dull in finish and
the ends of the bars, instead of beinff
round or pointed, are flat , like pillars.
"With this bed, yellow is a favorite, color
for the curtalnsTn the room and the under
cover and holster roll.
The average annual temperature ofL.
Sitka-ABd. Omah-4s the sem.