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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 4, 1903)
"29 TRADE M7VRKS OF THE SMA"RT GI"RL A FEW POINTS ON THE LITTLE THINGS THAT GIVE A YOUNG WOMAN DISTINCTION THE SUNDAY OEEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY '4, 1903. TO THE city or country girl who -wishes to acquire the trade marks of the smart girl the best advice to offer is this: "Study yourself and watch every well bred woman you meet." The really smart girl is chic, but never loud In her dressing. She is well-groomed, but always natural. She keeps in touch with the prevailing modes, but is never a slave to fashion. And by little tricks of carriage and bearing, distinctive man nerisms which are never eccentric, and the careful selection of accessories for her costume, shall you know her. She is the girl who studies herself first and the fashion plates afterward. She selects frocks that suit her, but never forces herself into gowns that are unbe coming solely because some thoughtless modiste assures her that such and such styles are "good" for this season. Bather when a gown is under discussion she and the modiste go into executivo session as an art committee of two. Is her income limited? Then she turns her back upon lightweight furbelows and buys a tailored street suit, in ie wearing of which she can snap her fingers at fierce sunlight and rain. It may bo made of the snowflake weave so popular this "Winter, but it will hang differently from the bar gain counter type of ready-to-wear cloth ing. She knows it will keep its shape through fair weather or fouL Its seams will not sag, and when she walks forth It is with the happy realization that every one must recognize that the gown was made for her, and no one else. It has in dividuality. It is a part of herself. Having selected her hat with equal care, she turns her attention to the veil. She knows that so small a thing may be tray her ignorance of the latest decrees of fashion. Its drapery Is equally im portant. So in this, the beginning of the year1903, she buys two veils, one of fine, very lightweight net, generally in a diamond-shaped weave, and the other in chiffon. Three-quearters of a yard is needed for the first or nose veil, and a yard and a quarter of the chiffon will al low for ample drapery- The nose veil may be in black or white, though the former Is less trying to the complexion. This veil Is adjusted on the hair before the hat is put on, and it must come no. lower than the tip of the nose. It is gathered in smooth folds over the pompadour in order to keep it in perfect condition, no matter how impertinent the Winter may be. The second veil Is adjusted after the hat is put on, and is so arranged as to give the effect of having been turned up In the front. The ends are daintily hemmed and smartly draped. Thej barely escape the shoulder. The exaggerated long ends have entirely disappeared, and if the hat is small a yard length of veiling will be ample. Exaggeration tends not to plc turesqueness, but to absurdity. For the street the mannlBh gloves take precedence. They show stout clasps and moderately heavy stitching in self-tones. Speaking of hands, the really smart girl can always tell you the proper fashion of greeting friends. The day of the high hand-shake is past, jind a more graceful greeting is in vogue. The hand is extend ed from the waist line, not too far, but, as one authority expresses it, "with a mere suggestion of restraint." "When the hands meet there is gentle movement to the right side of the person who extends the greeting, then back to the original position, the hands unclasp and the cere mony is over. . In fact, this seems to be a season of re actions in little things. It is not difficult to hark back to the days when the wbuld- sf 71T NABTr ntebt, Haskell." I stepped down from my seat In the cab of No. 27, and, with some muttered reply to the- greeting of the roundhouse foreman, passed out into the yard, thoroughly tired, hungry and irrit able after my 120-mile run in the cab of the limited express. It was one of those wild nights we sometimes, but not often, get during the month of November. A night of the blackest darkness, filled with driving rain and frozen sleet; a night of washouts, doubtful roadbeds, delays and loss of time, to be followed by a five-minute Interview with the division superintendent, a man of few words and much "less considera tion. I had Just brought in the limited express some 20 minutes late, owing" to the Icy con dition of the rails,' and I knew what to ex pect. I hurried along through the wind and rain, eager to get to my boarding-house, where a warm supper and dry clothes' awaited me. I "had just reached the house when I heard the sounds of hurried steps coming down the street after me. I turned and glanced carelessly over my shoulder and saw, by the flickering light on the oppo site corner, that It was NickTmy fireman. "We're In for it this time, I guess," he exclaimed abruptly, as he came up the steps after me. "Well, what's the trouble now?" I asked, although I had a pretty good Idea of what was cqmlng. "The 'old man's" down at the yard, and he's cussing like a trooper because you went off before he got a chance to see you." "We lost 20 minutes on that grade; I suppose that is what It means," I an swered. "Well, never mind; m be right down as soon as I eat my supper and get Into some dry clothes. I'm drenched." "No It ain't that," replied Nick, quick ly. 'The deuce Is to pay somewhere. We've got to pull out again and catch tho 9:45 into Hampton, and she's gone nearly 10 minutes now. I've got 27 out and fired up. She'll be blowing by the time we get back. Come on." I will not state that I did not say any thing out of the way. But, supper or no supper, together we hurried back, down to the yard, where I found Henderson pac ing up and down in the storm and growl ing like a hungry dog. "Can you catch that 9:45 before she gets Into Hampton?" be asked, as soon as I came In sight. "It's doubtful," I answered shortly; "She's, been gone 10 minutes already." "Oh, yes, you can," he insisted persist ently. "There's nothing ahead of you you have got a clear track until mid night." "Why don't you telegraph?" I asked, wonderingly. "That's the trouble," he snarled. "The wires are all down; I can't." "Well, I'll try it What are the orders?" I knew that if we were to overtake the 9:4.5 there was no time to be lost in asking Idle questions. Besides, I was not In very good humor at the sudden change from a warm supper, dry clothes and shelter to a wild night ride over an uncertain rpad In the storm; and, moreover, I had no very sincere liking for Jacob Henderson. Esq. I want you to catch the 9:45 before shp gets into .Hampton," ho repeated, insist ently. "You can do It if you open her up i r She irears at least two veils and the nose She extends ncr hand from the ivalst line. The high. noiaa 4jie tiKnt-flttlnjr skirt. She artlcnlarl5' carefnl in handling: Iier umbrella, veil is essential. position is.no longer1 in vojrae. " and does not nac it as a club. be athletic girl carried her umbrella as if It were a club, grasping it tightly at a point about the middle of its length. She thought she looked very much like her English cousin starting out to face a London fog. Now she has decided to be just her own charming American self, bo she grasps her umbrella lightly near the top of the handle, directly under the knob. She does not swing it, but carries and let her go. When you overtake her give this note to Conductor Davis, and if he gives you anything to bring back,, take it, no matter what it is. I'll wait here for you. How quick can you start?" I thought that there was something rather unusual about all this, but it was not for me to question orders. "In about two minutes,". I said prompt ly; "Just as soon as I can take in a little water. The tank Is almost empty." "Never mind the water," cried the old man, Impatiently. "I want you to get started. You have got enough to run down with. Tou can take some coming back." This thoughtlessness on his part nettled me a little, and I retorted rather sharply: "I'm running this engine, Mr. Hender son. If you want me to overtake the 9:45 it will take speed, and speed takes steam, and I cannot make steam without water. If you can, just step up and take my place and do it." He mado no reply, but turned away with something that sounded very much like an oath, and I felt that my hasty re ply bad cost me my position, for Hender son was a man that took no words from any man on the road, big or little. With some regret I backed No. 27 up beside the tank, and Just as I stopped un der the pipe I saw some one etep quickly out of the shadow of the tank and ap proach the side of tho engine. Thinking It to be some belated passenger, I gave tho matter no further thought, but turned my head and looked back to where Nick was busily engaged with the water pipe. Suddenly I felt a light touch on the arm. I whirled quickly about and saw standing besido mo in the cab the figure of a wo man. "What do you want?" I asked in sud den surprise. "Passengers are not al lowed on the engine. It's strictly against orders, Madam." "I know It." She glanced nervously about "But you must let mo go this time." She stepped quickly back Into the shadow so that my fireman might not see her. To say that I was startled by her sud den appearance and strange request would be expressing it mildly, but before I could reply, she lifted the edge of her veil and there, in the dim, -uncertain light of tho gasoline torch, I saw the bright eyes and pretty face of Grace Henderson. "Why,, Miss Henderson I" I managed to gasp, "you surely cannot mean it" Yet to tell the truth, I sincerely hoped 6ho did, for, deep down in my heart, I had a secret admiration for the girl, with her sweet, face and gentle manner. Hith erto I had always been content with the smile or cheery word she often gave me when she came to tho depot with her father. Now the prospect of having her so near me and talking with ma seemed to lift me to the very top shelf of earthly bliss. "I must really go, Mr. Haskell," she went on quickly. "I know that It must seem strange and unusual to you, but when one is in danger, strange things sometimes must bo done to escape, you know." '"What In danger?" I cried, in surprise. "Yes, In the greatest of dangers, and that Is why I ask you to let me go with you to escape this danger which threat ens me," she said sweetly. As she spoke she raised her great brown eyes to mine and gave me a look that scattered my prudence. I was very happy. "I would give my life to protect you, if you need It," I ventured to say. 1 could not see her face now, for she bad tunc-11 away. Frightened: at what it with a suggestion of firmness and safety to her neighbors. Under no cir cumstances does, she shove It under her arm as she presses through crowds or climbs stairs. The smart girl is consider ate of her neighbor's eyesight. In no other way can a young woman, when on the street, show her good taste and good breeding than in the handling of her skirts. THE STCRy OF AN O-RIGINAL ELOPEMENT I had said, I began to mutter a hasty apology. "Don't," she whispered. "If you mean what you say, prove it to me now, by letting me go with you. I dare not stay here." . What else could I do under ther circum stances? When Nick came clambering back over the coal Into the cab, I caught a glimpse of the look of wonder and astonishment In his face as he saw Grace, who was perched demurely upon my seat I gave him a quick nod, then slowly opened the throttle. We started out on our wild night ride for what I did not know. Out over the switches, where tho signal lights gleamed feebly and showed a clear lino ahead, across the bridge and into the country we plunged, gaining speed at each turn of our six-foot driving wheels, until It seemed as if we wero almost fly ing through tho Inky darkness. Accustomed as I was to high speed on tho road, I was almost nervous myself as we tore along, and I began to shut off the steam a little. As the speed began to slacken a trifle in response to my touch, I slowly opened the throttle another notch and, liko a race horse under spur, the en gine leaped forward. Past houses, through the fields, over bridges and through towns and hamlets we flew. All the time I stood close to Grace, ono hand upon the throttle, the other grasping the reversing lever. Nick, fully alive to the situation, sounded the whistle and rang the bell loudly as wo ap proached and passed through a place of any kind and at every crossing. I did not daro even to look at the girl perched upon my leather cushioned seat besido me, for all our lives her life re pended upon my vigilance. Sometimes I spoke to her, only a word, and she would grasp the side of the cab as she leaned forward to reply close to my ear; and sometimes her hand would reach out and involuntarily she would grasp mo timidly by tho arm as we flew over some rough stretch of the track, but a word from me now and then seemed to reassure her. At length. In making the long curve this side of R I suddenly caught tho gleam of tho red light on tho rear of tho passenger train. So abruptly had wo come upon it that if I had not been fully on the lookout there certainly would have been one less coach upon that road, and very likely several lives lost But I was ex pecting It and was prepared. Nick grasped the whistle and began to toot loudly. It was heard and recog nized, for there was no other whistle quite Ilka it on that division. Then, no doubt wondering what could have sent No. 27 down after them, they began to slacken up, camet to a dead stop, and waited for us to come up cautiously. "Well, what's the matiir?" ejaculated Davis, aa be came around the end of the last car when I leaped down from my cab. I made no reply, for I did not know, but handed him the note that Hender son had given mo to deliver to him. Ho took it, hastily tore it open and step ping to where the full glare of my head light fell upon the track, proceeded to read It "I don't know anything about it," he exclaimed suddenly. "Here, Ned, see what you can make out of this. I don't know what ho means. I haven't seen her." He handed the note to me. Holding It where theiight fell upon it I read: "Conductor Charles. Davis, No. 37. ' "My daughter, Grace Henderson, has leitMicu and I. have reaeon to think she The present fashion of wearing street skirts which escape the ground partially solves the problem for her, but in cross ing muddy streets, entering and leaving cars, and in other emergencies, it still be comes necessary to lift the skirt a trifle. "With the smooth-fitting backs, this is an art to be studied with care. The average woman makes a clutch at her skirt midway between the side line Is on your train. If so, send her back by tho bearer! JACOB HENDERSON, "Division Superintendent" I think that I must have given a more forcible exclamation than had Davis when I read the note, for now it was half plain to me. "There's something queer about this," I said slowly, as I passed back the note. "Is she aboard your train now?" "Is she aboard my train now?" he re peated in surprise. "No. she Is not and If she was, I'd not make her go back to that old skinflint, unless she wanted to. She la not a girl to leave home without some good reason, I know that I'd take her along to where sho wanted to go, and keep my mouth shut That's Just about what I'd do." "All right then, Charlie," I said slowly, for I had been thinking very fast "I'll just put her aboard your train now and send her along. She's up here la my cab." prise, then puckered up his llpa Into a prolonged whistle. I then told him, in as few words as possible, how she happened to be there, and, without a word, ho opened Henderson's note again and wrote on the back: "Between Hampton and Brooks Junction. "Jacob Henderson, Eeq. No. 27 has over taken me, and your note delivered. Your daughter is not aboard my train, nor has she been up to tho present time. "C. W. DAVIS, "Conductor No. 37." "There, Ned," he exclaimed, as he handed the note back to me. "Take that back to the 'old man.' It does not say that she will not be aboard my train after the present time. Now we must hustle." I explained tho situation briefly to Grace, and, not without a little regret on my part, the transfer was quickly made. I bade her good-bye, and, after a little handshake, climbed up into my cab and started to run back to the Junction. I suppose I must have been rather glum en the way back. Nick did not say much and I said less, barely answering a few necessary questions, for I was wondering what it all meant It was Just past midnight when we rolled back' into the roundhouse yard. Henderson was there, waiting for us, and he came rushing out as soon as he heard us cross ing the switches outside. "Whero is she?" he cried, jumping up into the cab almost before the engine had stopped. I feigned Ignorance, and passed him the note in reply. Nick was oiling the eccen trics, and heard nothing. He would not have known any more about It than I did. Nick was one of the kind that knew when it was best to know nothing. Some prodigious oaths escaped Hender son's Hps as he read the lines from Davis, but as they were not directed at me, I had nothing to say. I had done my work according to his orders. Then he walked off without another word and left us there alone. That was not the last" of jit, however. The next morning I was called Into Hen- I derson's private office and put through a ' series of questionings that would have done credit to a criminal lawyer: but when I left his august presence Jacob Henderson was no wiser regarding the matter than when I- came in. He also had Dick up before him and asked him a few questions but tho honest fellow knew no more about It than I pre tended to know, so on tho whole Hender son got but very little Information from either of us. A few days later I met Davis on tho objected, and as she had not .lived quite and the back seam. She misses the latter entirely and marches- on blissfully uncon scious that the back of the skirt drags as badly as If she haVl never made the effort. The girl who knows reaches down tho back seam, draws the skirt around In graceful, circular folds, raising the back widths of the skirt "at least four or five inches from the ground, and is certain street, and as ho came up and shook hands with, me cordially, he looked at me strangely. "Ned," he began, "perhaps you don't know it but you have won that girl's everlasting gratitude, if not to use a stronger expression, for what you did that night It was a close rub, though. She told me all about it before we got into Hampton. "It seems that the 'old man' Is only her guardian, after all. Her parents died when she was a child, and she has lived with him ever since.. He was determined that she should marry old Bailey, who owns the biggest half of the road, but she OF INTEREST JDST as every state has its banner, so have its housewives some partic ular recipe for cake on which they bank their reputations and rival their sisters across the border. The South is famous for its loaf cakes, and the New England cooks for their toothsome fillings. Some characteristic recipes follow: Ilobcrt B. Lee Cake. A layer cake popular in Richmond homes; it Is one of the best made by tho Virginia cook. Take nine eggs, the weight of seven eggs in sugar and the weight of four eggs in flour. Add the sugar to the well-beaten yolks of the nine eggs. Then add the whites, beaten very light Stir in the flour gently and season with fresh lemon. Bake in jelly cake tine. When cold spread each layer with the following filling: Strain the grated rind and Juice of two oranges and one lemon through a fine sieve into a pound of pulverized sugar. Add this to a grated cocoanut and the whlto of an egg beaten very light Thl3 recipe will make two cakes of three layers. Southern Reliable Cake. This Is wholesome and particularly nice for children as a plain, overy-day des sert, especially when served with tasty sauce. Allow six eggs, one-half pound of butter, one pound and one ounce of flour, one pound of sugar, one-half pint of milk and two even teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Cream the butter and su gar, add the eggs well beaten, then the milk, flour and the powder sifted into a littler of tho flour. Season with lemon or vanilla. Bako In layers. In loaf, , or in cups. This recipe la contributed by Florr Ida. Vlrjrinla Silver Cake. A delectable silver cake, which often forms a delightful contrast to chocolate. Take three-fourths of a pound of butter, one pound of white sugar, three-fourths of a pound of flour, one-fourth of a pound of cornstarch, tho whites of 18 eggs, and a teaspoonful of cream of tar tar. Cream the butter and then sift the flour, cornstarch and cream of tartar" grad ually Into the butter, and, last of all, the beaten whites. Flavor with aimond., This cake requires much watching, and should bo baked In a slow oven. Chocolate Cake. In Vermont chocolate cake and maple sugar cake are served Invariably with ice cream at the country social gather ings. To make a chocolate cake of gen erous size, allow 14, cupfuls of granu lated sugar, three eggs, one small cup ful , of sour cream, 14 pounds of un sweetened chocolate, one tablespoonful of that she is protecting her gown without making herself .conspicuous. And she emulates her sisters of the comic opera stago by gathering up her skirts with a clutch so violent and pronounced that every line of her figure is displayed. Your Parisian cousin picks up her skirt on either side with her elbows out at a sharp angle and her ankles showing cc quettishly, but it takes tho French cousin long enough to be her own mistress sho was a few weeks short she couldn't do any better than to run away. "The danger is over now, and she can choos.o for serself. Better go up and see her, Ned. She's stopping with a friend. Here's her address." It may be quite needless for me to state that I took Charlie's advlco and found tlmo to go and call upon Grace very soon after. There was something In her brown eyes when I left her that encouraged nw to call again and often. While Jacob Henderson was still turn ing the adjacent country upside down in Bearch of her. I quietly married her. TO WOMEN vanilla, one teaspoonful of baking soda and a pinch of salt Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs and beat both until light To the yolks add the sugar, the flour and the chocolate, melted In half the cream, the remainder of the cream, and, Anally, the beaten whites of the eggs, the flavoring and the soda dis solved in a little boiling water. The salt should have previously been sifted with the flour. Pour tho mixture Into jelly cake pans and bake In a moderate oven. When baked spread tho following icing between the layers and over the top: Beat the white of one egg to a stiff froth. Boll one cupful of granulated sugar and one-half cupful of boiling water together until It spins a thread. Pour the synlp slowly Into the egg and continue beat ing until It becomes cold and thick. Flavor lightly with lemon juice. Maple Sugar Cake. This is a recipe not generally known, but It has been tried with great success. For tho layers rub together one cupful of butter and two cupfuls of sugar until they form a cream. Add the yolks of four eggs beaten lightly, three cupfuls of sifted flour, one-half cupful of milk, whites of the egg3 whipped to a froth, and, lastly, one teaspoonful of baking powder. Bake in Jelly cake pans. For the filling boll one cupful of maple syrup until It threads. Pour slowly upon the white of one egg, which has been beaten stiff, beating steadily all the while. Con tinue beating until the mixture Is cold and thick, then spread between the lay ers and on the top. .If desired still richer, stir one-half cupful of butternuts, which have "been chopped fine, into the filling Just before spreading on the cake. Pound Cake. For some reason, pound caSo that is made rich and well baked seems to apply particularly to Maryland folk. Rub one pound of butter and one pound of pow dered sugar to a smooth cream. Beat the yolks and whites of 12 eggs separate ly until they are very light" Add the yolks to the cream, and, when they are well blended, stir in the whites. Sift the flour and add it little by little until all has been added and the cake is well blended. Grate the rind of ono lemon and add it to the juice. Strain through a fine sieve and stir into the cake. Beat vigorously until perfectly smooth and very light for at least -a half hour. Then pour Into the buttered pans, lined with buttered paper, and bake thoroughly in a moderate oven, usually from one hour to one and a half.' Test with a. clean broom splint thrust Into the center. Minnehaha Cake. For this delicious and savory morsel from 'New England, use two cups of to do it with Just the right air. Tour English cousin, if caught in a sudden storm, calmly pulls four safety pin3 from her hand-bag, makes an impromptu tuck in her skirt and plods on, serenely un conscious of her ludicrous appearance. But the American girl, who knows just the right angle at which to lift the back of her frock, presents the most pleasing picture. The "old man" was angry and profana when at last he heard of it and the part I had played, but h.e passed over Grace's personal fortune without a protest That was my last run on an engine, al though, strange to say, neither Nick nor Charlie Davis were discharged for tho part they took In my little elopement They never heard anything further re garding the matter, but I was Immedi ately notified that "my services were no longer required." So now Grace has all the affection that. I once felt for my engine, and all that other love besides, but it is not half what she deserves. W. H. ROYCB. CAKES FROM VARIOUS STATES HOUSEHOLD HINTS brown sugar, two cups of flour, one-half cup of water and five eggs, two teaspoon fuls of baking powder and the grated peel of two oranges. Mix sugar and two yolks together; then add the water and whites of eggs, well beaten, and tha flour, In which has been sifted the baking pow der. Add flavoring according to taste, and bake in square or round layers. For the filling allow one pound of sugar boiled until it flies from the spoon in strings. Upon this pour the whites of four egga which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Beat hard, and then add one fourth of a pound of chopped citron, one-fourth of a pound of chopped figs and one-half of a pound seeded and chopped raisins. Mix all together and add tha icing. Gradually spread between the lay ers and on the top and-side of tho cake. If put In a stone crock It will keep fresh for some time. HOUSEHOLD HIXTS. Windows That Won't "Run." If windows are hard to push up and down, try blackleadlng the frame where It touches the frame of the window, and rubbing a little softsoap Into tho cords. Thla will generally remedy it, and makea them run like new. When Washing- Cm eta. If you want cruets or water bottles to dry quickly after washing, stand them wrong alio up under a tap when clean and let tho water run on them for a little while. In a few minutes you will And that they are quite dry Inside. To Clean Old Oak. Old oak that has been neglected should be washed In warm beer; then when dry wash it again all over with a soft brush with the following mixture: One quart of beer, in which you have boiled a piece of beeswax the size of a walnut and a tablespoonful of sugar. Leave this to dry; then polish with a soft cloth. Wet Umbrellas. Wet umbrellas should be turned up side down to dry, as the water will run off tfio handle instead of Into the part where tha ribs meet so causing the metal to rust and tho silk to rot Never leave an umbrella open to dry, for In thi3 way the silk Is allowed to become stretched and tho umbrella, loses its good shape. Worth Knowing. If a Kidderminster carpet .begins to wear, get a piece of material as near the same color as possible. Cut a piece quite a quarter of a yard all round larger than tho hole. Make some, moder ately thick flour paste, brush it over the new material, lay this at the back of the torn part and Iron till the pasta haa thoroughly dried. .