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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 4, 1903)
28 THE SUNDAY OEEGONIAN, PORTLAND, 3TANUARY "4, 1903'. 1 i , - ... ., , -- - - - I I - II MM mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmam STgLES "FOR MIT)-WIMTER WEDDINGS. -iSSSZSSSSSE C0L0E ; i WEDDINGS arc the only social func tions where Dame Fashion finds her iconoclastic progress balked by the powers of tradition and sentiment. In the ballroom she may supplant tho stately minuet by ragtime two-steps, and the znusicale of old drawing-room days may give place to polite vaudeville, but weddings will be weddings to the end of the chapter. With a dellcato touch she may alter decorations and other trifling details, but in many of. the more impor tant points tho bride of IMS goes back two or three generations for precedent, as well as for the family bridal volL Happy Is the bride whom the sun shines on and who also is envoloped In the veil j that her mother and her grandmother wore. It may be . a trifle yellow with age, but It will reek with lavender or roso petal odors and lend a distinction not to be secured from the latest importation In real lace. Tho ancestral veil is bound to occasion comment and rouse envy in the hearts of prospective brides, whose grand mothers were not thoughtful enough to hand down that accessory of their wed ding frocks. Green and white are unquestionalily the correct colors for tho mid-Winter wed ding. Indeed, this is a white Wintor in all Borts of decorations, a fact upon which Interested parties may ba congratulated, for no other color scheme is at once so simple and effective. If it bo a church wedding, white flowers harmonize most correctly with the dignified surroundings; and if the ceremony is at home, they prove decorative with any furnishings. For church weddings chrysanthemums make the best showing, smaller blossoms being dwarfed by their surroundings. In large churches, where the altar is banked with palms, florists are resorting with great success to the artificial plants. At St. Bartholomew's, the millionaires' church, in Now York City, a florist re cently employed artificial cocoanut palms -which towered to the celling and were banked in by smaller varieties. Tho palms nearest the chancel and around the choir stalls were natural. Artificial plants are set In Christmas tree holders and are cheaper and much easier to handle. In a house wedding few palms are em ployed, as every Inch of floor space is needed. Laurel or Southern smllax Is used effectively, and rcses and carnations are less cumbersome than chrysanthe mums. The decorations for a house wed ding should be lighter than for a church function, and they reflect more accu rately the tasto of the bride and her mother. A very beautiful effect was attained at a recent house wedding where the decora tions were in the inevitable green and white. A broad staircaso in the square hall, which was in full view of tho guests assembled In the drawing-room, was wreathed in smllax, caught with white rosebuds. Down this came the procession, headed by six young girls in the simplest of white frocks of moussellne de sole, carrying lilies of the valley and maiden hair ferns. They sang the bridal chorus from "Lohengrin," and formed an aisle at the foot of the stairs through which the rest of the bridal party- passed Into "the drawing-room. The well-trained but girl ish voices sounded the keynote for the entire function, which was marked by an Dainty froclc tor the maid of konor. Heusselaine de sole vrltk medallions of lace. Skirt finely tucked from. vrait line to Item. Foisted bertha of pleated monuelalae de sole. Wedding' sovrn for qnlet home wedding. Foundation of penu de sole; shaped flounce outlined by cascades ef chiffon caugLt by pearl clasps. Sleeves of shirred chiffon. elegant simplicity which cm be attained in one's own home. It was at this same wedding thatthe little flower girl carried lilies of the valley in a pale green basket of exquisite work manship, and the bride's cake was distrib uted in wee boxes of silver and white bro cade, tied with silver cord. The matron of honor is still seen at church weddings, but she Is apt to bo too stately a figure for the simpler house function. In fact, unless a house Is truly palatial In size and appointments, the bridal party should be small. The length of church aisles lends itself admirably to a retinue of" pretty girls and broad-shouL. dered men, but the same number of peo ple make the average drawing-room look small and cramped. In the matter of wedding dresses there is no happy medium. Either you are much beruffled and befrilled, or you are severely plain. Either you are enveloped In clouds of tulle and lace, or you weir a satin or silk which literally stands alone and is made accordingly. And & high necked frock you must wear, no matter what the material employed. A recent bride who rebelled on this one point and introduced a surplice effect said it was the one cloud In the otherwise bril- j llant wedding day sky. Every woman who s.came up to wish her Joy fixed a discon certing gaze on that V-shaped neck. Pearls are the preferred Jewels for the bride's ornaments, and they are also In troduced in the passementrle used In trimming the dress. The new drops or pendants, formed of seed pearls, are used extensively in combination with satin and peau da sole. Despite the efforts of modistes to Intro duce moire as a wedding dress fabric. It has not attained any popularity. Tou must take your choice between the sheen of satin or the flutter of chiffon. For hous& weddings moussellne da sole and point d' esprit hold their own for maid of honor and flower glrL For church cer emonies heavier goods are employed, broadcloth for the bridesmaids and al batross or similar soft fabrics for the wee maid who carries the flowers. For tho latter styles are very simple when the heavier textures are employed. It is a mistake to think that Just any dress suit will do for the groom. He re ceives as much attention. from his tailor as the bride from her modiste. The tailor is apt - to think this Is one occasion of a man's life when he is the cynosure of many critical feminine eyes, and he forth with introduces the small details which distinguish this year's evening suit from last season's. A suit recently sent home by a Fifth avenue tailor showed several Innovations In the finishing. The stripe down the side of the trousers was of a tightly woven silk braid In a distinct pattern and very different from the absolutely plain effect of last year. The braid which fin ished tho top of the waistcoat was Irreg ular In Its weave, like a coarse double edged saw, and very narrow and very flat, and visible only upon close examina tion. The same pattern appeared on the buttons, and the coat had a deep and clearly defined cuff. A single spray of lilies of the valley, or a very small rosebud, is used for the groom's buttonhole. The bride's bouquet is still of the shower type, each blossom being tied to a narrow ribbon. White roses and lilies of the valley are the favor ite combination, although those who are ready to pay 75 cents to $2 a blossom may select white orchids. For the going-away gown the new tail ored effects are chosen. This means tail ored lines in the cutting, but, considerable elaboration In the trimming. Even lace is Introduced in such a costume and is not considered incongruous, no matter how heavy the fabric. IMPRESSIVE AIDS TO BEACITCJ Short Athletic Exercises to Keep the Figure in Perfect Trim KATHLEEN is In a reflective mood. It might even be called a dejected mood, for she sits with downcast head and her pose suggests a model for "Melancholy" As she is in the neighbor hood of that age called "sweet sixteen" her troubles, let us hope, are but trifles as light as thistle down. "In the first place," she asks herself, "how can I keep my hands smooth and white, my hair glossy, my waist trim and my back flat, for I cannot afford to visit manicure, hairdresser or a gymnasium.? Of course, any one can be beautiful If any one has money enough." Given a little common sense, a little pa tience and e little time, Kathleen, and you may tread the royal road to loveli ness, let your purse be as light as it wllL The lovely Lesblas and beautiful Ara bellas who spend money freely for every "aid to beauty," forcostly potions and fra grant lotions, are not the only attractive maidens in the world. If any girl will take herself In hand, she may really accomplish wonders. If one would be really attractive, the fig ure must take preference of the complex ion. The complexion of the wide-eyed, sweet, young thing of 16 should take care of Itself. The figure at that age often needs much attention, much more than it receives. Shoulders, the shoulder blades particu larly, must be looked to, so that they may be as flat as tho traditional flounder. If they protrude In the least degree, a eerles of exercises must be Inaugurated and 10 minutes, night and morning, de voted to athletics in scanty attire so that every movement may be unimpeded. Be fore trying to turn one's self into a Greek maiden, one rmiBt stand correctly and take deep, full breaths. Then, rolling the shoul ders backward, hold both arms partly up raised for a moment, gradually lifting them until the right arm is straight up and the left arm at a right angle to the body. Then, standing on the tip of the toes, stretch the arms to their greatest length, turning tho hands constantly, backward and forward. Practice these movements dally if you have the Interest of your shoulder blades at heart, and al ways keep the following rules tucked away In your brain for immediate refer ence: ' To retain girlish waist line, walk or. stand with the hands clasped behind the head end the elbows wide apart. Stand erect at short intervals during the day, head up, chin In, chest out and shoul ders back. Stand now and again during the day with all the posterior parts of the body touch ing a vertical wall as much as possible. Put the hands on the hips with the el bows back and the fingers forward. To retain a girlish waist line there are still other exercises. One movement which should be practiced at least tnree times a week is managed aa follows: Lie flat on the floor, face up Mnssnse, instead of brnshlngr for the hair and scalp. . . . mm r FOT. fl"C"i"8 "h0alder b'a,'l I To keep that girlish, waist-line, try this exercise. tho length of fatigue. This last move ment helps to flatten shoulder blades, as well as to strengthen Ihe muscles about the waist. Throat and neck, too, must receive at tention. One sees faces that are bewitch ing, eyes that are entrancing, mouths that are tempting, but throat and neck well, it is only once In a while that a girl pos sesses a round, full, pillar-like throat and a neck that is smooth and clear skinned. Is It not worth while,-then, to take the trouble to keep a pretty (hroat In good condition, or to try to Improve a "scrag gy one," changing ugliness Into beauty? To develop the muscles of throat and neck, practice deep breathing, out of doors preferably. In the pure alf, and then every night go through a few exer cises. Bend the head forward slowly, until the chin nearly touches the neck. Then raise the head to Its normal position. Kepeat several times, taking long, deep breaths. For the second movement, bend tho head backwards as far as possible, and then raise to its normal position. Re peat several times. Then bend the head sidewise. ten times to the rhrht and as many times to the left. Again, roll the head slowly to the right, then to the left. For a girl to be her own manicure re quires nn outlav nf nnt mnw tVian a dnl- Then, with straight knees and extended , A . lf , , , . fl . . i-Z dnwiv Wnri wr 1 and a half, which purchases all tho im- them as slowly. At first the elevation is laments and supplies necessary for a very slight A few days later the angle . y.a us;' or more- may be 90 degrees, and still later 45 de-1 Tnls Includes an orange-wood stick, safe grces. Make a distinct pause each time t l" scissors, a nle, a large polisher, or before lowering the limbs. I "buffer," as the professional calls it, a The amount of elevation may be lndl- ko nail paste and one of powder, cated by "slightest elevation," "all the J -A. basin of warm, soapy water is need way up," and "half way up." i ed. In which the hands are first immersed, For a second waist line exercise, still ' to soften the nails. Indeed, nails should lying flat on the floor, raise the arms on a .never be cut without flrst holding them in line with the shoulders and rotate them as i water Use a nailbrush, and then the or rapldly as possible. I ange-wood stick to clean the nails. Still ajtain, lie down on the chest and J. The flesh nbout the nail Is pushed gently raise the head and shoulders up as far as . back with the stick. "With the safety possible, repeating many times. ' scissors tho nail is cut In the desired Indeed, all of these exercises, to be of shape, the file being used to level the any value, must be repeated, but not to edges. Rub a little of the rose-tinted paste on each nail, dust on scene of the powder, and then use the polisher, touch ing lightly with an even stroke. Don't let either paste or powder work into the skin around the nails. If the nails are very brittle they should not bo cut until they have been rubbed with almond or sweet oil- Good looks depend almost more upon the appearance of the hair than upon fair complexion, sparkling eyes, a rose bud mouth or pearly teeth, and all these good points are set off to better advan tage by the hair. The trouble about hair Is that the care Is usually. misapplied. The energy is put Into brushing it instead of the scalp. Brush the scalp more and the hair less In order to increase the vitality of the scalp. The hair has a certain length of life. When the end of that ttae comes it falls out, and lf the scalp is In good condition a new hair comes In its place. The scalp should be brushed with a softer brush to stimulate the circulation. Use the Angers to rub or massage the scalp vigorously. Place one hand on the brow, the other on tho back of the head. Press the Angers well Into the scalp and with a Quick movement bring tho hands toward each other. To know how to train shimmering tresses to ripple and wave and flow Is quite necessary in this era of Lady Tea zle curls. Marcel waves and Gainsbor ough ringlets. In the first place, much brushing 13 necessary to make the hair pliable, but the brush must be Immaculately clean, which necessitates washing It at lpast twice a week In water containing wash ing soda There are many curling fluids. An old fashioned but good ono is made by pour- WOMEN IN COMME-ReiAL 7VRT HERE one woman was employed in what is termed commercial art 10 years ago a dozen women now have place. Some have learned the lithographer's trade. Others are designers In the big grocery houses, getting up tho labels and catchy home scenes that enliven pickle Jars and preserve holders. A number are busy In the big factories that supply the novelties found on stationers' counters. A good proportion of the clever hits made in illustrating the virtues of soap and of various housecleanlng powders are due to women. In New York, Cincinnati, Chicago and other centers where big ad vertising agencies flourish, women work ers supply tho Ideal faces and subjects that are used for trade illustration. Few busy lithographic houses will take girl apprentices, but girls who have learned the trade outside aro welcome to employment. Most women in the busi ness have been taught singly by litho graphers interested In them. They are all good' workwomen. Those who are able to design' as well as lithograph are es pecially useful. One New Tork woman own and. man ages in person a lithographing and Job printing business. She was an appren tice of the house years ago, and made her way up from the ranks. She attends to most of the details of the business. In her opinion there 13 much less risk in a woman's hiring a house keeper to attend to her home affairs and" her children's wants out of school hours than In employing a manager to look after the business. A woman is at tho head of the art de partment of a big preserving and pickling house. She gets up the labels and coins the names for the various new brands. She also devises the pictures and an nouncement placards sent out to advertise the firm's exhibits, and Is responsible for the general plan of the exhibition stands, and decorations that are set up in the various cities. Tho proprietors of mineral water rights employ women In tho display department of their different branches throughout the country to think up original ways of presenting the goods In attractive order. Many of the artists, working often against time, get their designs from historical or dramatic subjects. If tho designs are apt and taking they are not expected to be original. But they must not be hack neyed. A successful woman artist draws up the advertisements for a biscuit factory. A Western house noted for rare conserves and luncheon accompaniments employs a woman to ornament the stone Jare for Its goodies. A Chicago lithographing house which helps numbers of merchants and manufacturers to celebrate the merits of their goods, owes considerable of Its wit and mirth to a woman' cartner. Two sisters in a Western city have made a reputation of their novel applica tion of photography to commerce. Wher ever trade advertisements are known these women have pushed their work. And the only criticism heard is that the work Is almost better than is needed. A Massachusetts woman, an artist of ability f who some years ago could not have believed it possible that she had any business Instincts, is now turning out pic tures appropriate for business calendars,, which are snapped up readily as bids for trade. A woman lithographer, who is likewise a botanist, works in the art department of an American scientific institute. She draws on stone the structural forms of plantE and growths that aro needed to illustrate the research work In a her barium. Them are other artists employed in registering the important groups and classifications, but this woman is especial ly valued on account of her trained dis crimination and accuracy. lng a pint of boiling water over about half an ounce of quince suds. Let this stand for several hours, then strain and bottle, adding two drachms of cologne or alcohol and a few drops of violet or roso perfume. It may be necessary to thin this with a little water before using. The best method of procedure with a curling fluid Is to pour a llttlo into a shallow basin and apply to the hair by means of a clean nail brush. Afterward roll tho hair on kids or papillotes. Hair thus put up keeps in curl for two or three days. Toilet essentials for the care of the hair include a good brush and comb, a bottle, of hair tonic, which need not cost over 50 cents, and a shampooing lotion, made. by mixing together Ave grains of camphor dissolved in one-half ounce of alcohol and two drachms of powdered borax. A small bottle of alcohol Is also needed, on tho dressing table, for a little of It diluted with water removes dan druff. For beautifying lotions for the toilet table the maiden fair does not. need any high-priced, expensive creams In still higher-priced crystal and silver bottles and jars. The really necessary and most helpful articles are humbla in origin and their price not worth mentioning. Salt, for example. Is a panacea for many Ills. A little dissolved In warm water will cure the disfiguring inflammation of eyelids, reddened by a long walk in the wind. If used for a gargle it allays any slight Irritation of the throat, and a little should occasionally be used in the water In which one's teeth are brushed, as it helps to harden the gums. A few drops of tincture of myrrh In the water used for brushing the teeth sweetens the breath. Glycerine Is an old friend, and 10 cents' worth will last for two or three months. Diluted with one-third water, it suits most skins best, clear glycerine being irritating. If a teaspoonful of acetic acid is added to about one ounce of glycerine, diluted with water, stains are more easily re moved from the" fingers. Thero should al ways be a Jar of fine white sand, oatmeal or cornmeal on tho washstand for use whenever the hand3 are washed. Oatmeal l3If the face has a shiny, oily look, soft tissue paper, such aa men use for shaving, Is the remedy. Rub the face over with this, and after a week's use you will won der how In the world you have ever done without it. No poudre de rlz for a youthful face, but after the bath a sprinkle of powder over arms and neck leaves an agreeable fragrance, and is a subtle method of giv ing a flower-like presence. After all the most attractive girl Is tho one who, although she studies her mirror a good deal, does not neglect her heart. "If you have a good heart." some one flippantly remarks, "you should also have a good hat." Clothes, of course, should be tasteful and stylish, but they need not be expensive. They should show In subtle ways that they have been well chosen and that you have not only made tho most of yourself, but of every penny you have spent on dress. Let your clothes be fresh and carefully put on, with no staring pins or loose ends. About the entire woman let there be an unmistakable air of good grooming. Look as though you had used somebody's soap. When invited to any place, compliment your entertainers by looking your best. The girl we like the successful, popular girl Is she who appreciates the fact that she cannot have the flrst choice of every thing In the world. She 13 the girl who Is not aggressive and does not find Joy in exciting people. She is the girl who makes the world a pleasant place because she Is pleasant herself and not Inclined to sadness. Laughter is a far more popular tonic than tears. She is the girl who Is slow to anger and quick to forgive. She may be dark or fair, slender or well developed, tall or stout, for there 13 no special mark which distinguishes the most lovable type of girl. The only way In which she may be known is by the multitude of those who love her. , KATHARINE S. MORTON. (Copyright, 1902.)