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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 21, 1902)
28 THff SUNDAY OBEGONIAN, PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 21, 1902. KNOWS SHE IS GOING TO BE A PICTURE EVER PRESENT IDEA" IN Tt& RUND OF THE WOMAN DEVOTED TO FASHION - II........... , ,. t .1 r r r .,. . r - t - r i i l i r i r i - i. , mmm Black: Point d'erit over rose, TOrfte olnt d'eprit vritk the new pearl trimming:. a wine-colored goTO made over greea -ilk. . WSJe and 8carlet-A nsEcatlon of the French "devl dress." L , - - , , . i . T H t I . .. .., -I T, a. mmmm ....... T , . - , ,, ..,,, .- - - THE well-dressed -woman Is always a picture. She knows, from the mo ment that she purchases the fabric for her frock to the moment that she stands before the mirror and takes a last long, satisfying look at the tout ensem ble, that she Is going to be a picture. From the ribbons on her hat to the buckles on her shoes, she has worked con scientiously to carry out the one effect which photographed itself upon her mind when she first planned her costume. It is not only In her ruffled Summer frocks and 3mart little sunbonnets that she looks as though she should be framed, but in every garment she dons, from her lace-trlmmed night robe to her fur-trimmed Winter coat. Like the actress, sho considers her self in perspective, places herself men tally ageinst the natural and proper back ground, and begins to draw in the lines which will complete the picture. This means, of course, of the well dressed woman; not of the woman who Is merely smart, because sho knows what Is being worn and has the money to purchase it, who wears a Gainsborough hat, a Gib son waist and Colonial shoes without a pin-prick of pride or conscience, without one pang of the artistic souL The well dressed woman Is like the clever, chlo Parislenne, who always "Eces herself," as the actress would express it. In a frame, and who consequently is always charm ingnever over-dressed. Even the nurs ery maids in Paris are smart. They study themselves, as nursery maids, and live up tp the artistic ideal of the nursery maid. Just as we study ourselves as Gib son girls or Christie girls and work night and day to "look our part3." The Paris Ian shop girls, too, are chic and attractive looking. They do not aim to be cheap imitations of the society buds, but place themselves, mentally, behind the counter and decide first what will look most ap propriate, most charming -and most pic turesque In the environment, which, how ever simple, must be theirs. It is art, art, art with perhaps an exceptionally shape ly corset which makes the Parisian wo man the leader, of fashion. Autumn, and this Autumn In particular, gives the girl who would be a picture the most wonderful opportunities to carry out her ambition. Autumn, with Its warm, glowing . tints, Is the sort of background against which to wear poppy-wreathed hats, or scarlet shooting jackets and scar let fedoras. This Autumn the Importers are showing robes and skirts and jackets that look quite as though they had been cut from an old-time picture book. One enterprising New York shop already has several dozen Imported frocks on exhibi tion. Strolling through Its show rooms one can almost fancy one's self back In the days of one's grandmother, so quaint are the little brown silk mantles with their brown velvet bands, the dove-colored zlb ellnes with their grotesque sleeves, and the- black lace evening gowns with their flowing angels' wlnga There, are glowing red tailor suits, too, that remind one of Autumn leaves, and yellow silks and pon gees that look like reflections from the golden rod. Every gown 6eems to have a motif, to be a picture in which it is oifly necessary to set the right girl. A young woman who returned from Paris last week brought back a trunk full of pretty between-eason picture gowns that will without doubt bo copied wherever they are seen. September is such an interrogation point In the punc tuation of the fashions that any ideas which come floating over the water are at once snapped up. The prettiest of thl3 girl's frocks was a street suit of wine colored zlbeline built on green silk. The skirt was perfectly plain, except for three broad bands switched about the lower half, and was cut with the seam down the cen ter of the front. The Jacket was blouse, with a vest of white velvet and a chic collar smartly appllqued In dead white guipure. The sleeves were of the now popular shape, flat at the top. but ridicu lously full below the elbow. With this dis tinctly Autumnal frock was worn a fluffy white hat, heavily laden with scarlet cher ries. Not every girl could stand so strik ing and vivid a costume; but cny little friend from Paris Is dark and chic, with soft brown hair, and she looked like a scarlet poppy, just in season. A very different picture was a little candle-light frock of Innocent, pristine point d'esprit brought over In this same magical trunk. There is nothing quite so becoming to a really young girl as point d'esprit. It reminds one of snowdrops, lilies of the valley, lnnocense, purity, graduating exercises, coming-out parties, and all the things we are wont to asso ciate with unspoiled, beautiful girlhood. This gown, built over white silk, with the becoming baby waist and the modestly low neck, which buds affect, was made with the horizontal tucks which have a tendency to broaden a too, too attenuated figure. Its only trimming and Its crown ing glory was several rows of half-Inch white velvet ribbon down the front of both skirt and waist. This was caught in loops and festoons at artistically uneven points, and in,,lts folds held small bunches of lilies of the valley, which were the key note to the motif of the costume. A soft sash of chiffon, with very broad ends fall ing to the hem of the skirt and even a trifle below the deml-traln, heightened the impression of flufllness and fluttered In the dance like angels' wings. It would seem quite easy to be good and unsophisticated and ingenue In such a gown. "You see," said the newly arrived one, lifting out of the magical trunk a black point d'esprit creation over rose pink silk, "I had one Ingenue dress and one worldly dress. This black and rose is very world lyand I assure you very expensive. And this," shaking out a long, curly, blllowy French negligee. In white scarlet, "is my devil dress.' The 'devil dress' is quite the rage in Paris now. I couldn't quite dare wear one over here, you know, so I came as near it as possible in my negligee." There was something truly -Satanic in the scarlet folds of the silken robe; but the effect was very much softened by a white chiffon yoke arid a full white chiffon front caught under bands of black ribbon vel vet, held with rhlnestone buckles. .Her trunk was a revelation, after pecp3 into the trunks of other girls just bai from mountains or sea trunks full faded finery, draggled and torn danl frocks, shirt waist suits shrunken to tl knees, and dingy with grass stains ai wheel grease, hats that looked like. ti drooping feathers of a badly batter! cock, and petticoats limp with the liml ness tnat comes of salt water and moul tain dew. "But how," she was asked, "could yi know what to get so early in the seasol and aren't you afraid that your frocl will not bo just what you may wal later?" Oh, no," was the reply. "If one star out with the right idea, the idea thl one is to bo a picture, you know, a J never wavera from that point, no mattl how tempting the bargains and fads every counter in the shops, one can nl make a mistake. For, after all. the fnsl Ions arc but the evolution of nrtisn Ideas, and with a little logic one ml tell months ahead just what they going to be." BLUE, STILL. REMAINS FASHION'S 'FALL COLOR STYLES ARE CONVENIENT FOR MAKING OVER OLD GOWNS SUMMER HAT SHAPES WILL BE WORN THIS WINTER THE first thing one notices with the new Autumn suits is a tendency toward braid trimmings and stitched strappings of all sorts. In form the gowns, even the plainest of them, run to" skirts that train slightly, with a blouse Jacket or Eton coat for the upper garment. Such styles, however, are -distinctly for street wear. The dressier frocks, those worn for calling, recep tions, the theater, etc., show blouse or round bodices, made elaborate with em broideries and lace vests. A few coats are seen with these very smart costumes, but the best of them even suggest the round waist, since most of the tall Is In the rear. One very stunning new coat for tailor frocks shows the close fit and rear cut of a riding jacket a long, plain, snugly fitting skirt with this adding to the horsy look. More glove-tight than ever are all skirts at the top, where habit backs, fit tlng without a wrinkle, and short hip r f A Sivassrer Rasrlan. , mJ yokes, are distinctive features of the newest styles. Some deere of train is also observable, but being less stiffened than J formerly, the flouncing bottoms fall with I considerably more grace. Another point I for congratulation Is that the hideous "symmetrfcals" the graphic stage term, which, for a season or more, built out too meager hips, bjivo had their day. The hips of tho fashionable woman must look small whether they are or not, and I the smaller they look the better. ' I A trio of charmlasr street gowns, de-! Ilghtfully Illustrate these subtle but nec essary points. Two demonstrate the In vading hip yoke, which in all cases Is cut short at the back and to dip downward at the front. Never Is such a line de parted from; it Is Intended that the curve of the yoke must follow that of the gir dle, which at the front curves more than ever low. French cloth the sort of broadcloth that has a satiny finish In one of tho new blues, composes the more elegant of the three costumes. A very .hand some embroidery In blue and black or naments the blouse waist, but the skirt depends entirely upon stitched strappings of the same cloth for trimmings. These outline a hip yoke and graduated flounce, horizontal bands running between at every narrow gore. At the bottom the gore binds cross the flounce, the ends pointed and graduating in length, showing longest at the back. With the rich embroidery mentioned more bands appear upon tho bodice, shaping a corset girdle shoulder, caps and cuff bands for .the sleeves. The tucked vest Is of white moussellnc crossed by narrow strings of black panne. These hold together the embroidered blouse fronts, whose splendor Is further em phasized by large buttons of sapphire and silver. A black mouoscline cravat, smartly swathes the throat and the folded girdle is of the black panne. Tho second gown in point of elegance Is also blue, for blue you know 13 fash Ion's latest caprice. She does not con fine .herself to any particular shade, but offers tints for every taste, "legitimate" blues our old friends the navy shades and "Illegitimate" ones. If we may uso the word, for some of the " numberless mad-tinted dyes. The old-time sky blue, rebaptized azure, Is a favorite color for airy evening gowns, and a new and very eccentric tint js called "gaslight blue." Trimmings of black and white deck many of these radiant colors,' the combi nations showing In braids with a tartan weave and checked silks. On a bewitch ing house gown of pale blue French cash mere, black and white checked silk was used with a surprisingly smart effect. Also It suggested daz2ling possibilities in the way of economy, for such silks are never dear, and short remnants in them can always be found. But to return to our second frock,, whoso texture Is no more than English serge, in a lightweight quality. The unllned skirt Is lightly tucked and falls from a scal loped hip yokb over a black taffieta "drop," which, you know, is dressmaker's Jargon for lining. The trimming Is nar row black braid, put on the skirt in an odd band to simulate a graduated flounce. On tho bodice, which goes under the belt at the back and has loose Eton fronts, the braid is differently disposed. A number of rows, closely massed, form a border for the cut-out neck and fronts which lap slightly, some scattered ends of braid, finished with heavily embroidered knots, giving tho necessary look of rela tionship with the skirt Similar swirls ornament the drooping puffs of the sleeves, whose upper portions more than usually accentuate tho present closely at this point. The third gown, though mido with less dressy Intention than these two. to the sophisticated mind, far surpasses them in dash. Brown and white mottled-wool Is Its ground material, plain brown cloth bands, with white cloth edges both left raw accomplishing a decoration Infinitely effective. Two of these outline the nar row apron gore of the skirt, two others running round with a double flounce sug gestion, swirling, oddly at the sides and back. AnEton coat Is the simple upper gar ment, sleeves allgbtljr flowing and fronts lapping diagonally and dropping below the belt, In a stylish point A military looking frogging Is made across the fronts of the coat, which Is cut out in the neck after the manner of all of the best Etons. This the frogging Is achieved by a number of short straps with pendant tabs. The French back of the coat shows only two straps, these continuing over the shoulders and down the side fronts suspender fashion. . All of these gowns are 'from ready-made models, whereby you may see that the chops are catering more than ever to the demand for elegance. Nevertheless none of them were very dear. On the contrary, considering they were all built upon silk, they were, as com pared to former prices, astonishingly cheap. Sixty dollars, ?40 and $33 were the prices with which they were ticketed." Of even more Importance than tho gown is the hat with which Beauty will soon crown herself, the whole style of the toi lette depending now upon the fitness and becomingness of the headpiece. The shape of this is not necessarily dependent upon the genre of the costume, stiff severe ef fects being seen with the most frou-frou costumes, and some eminently picturesque with the plainest dresses. What is required is that you get the right thing and wear 'it rightly, which means that you must consider your type 41rst of all and the kinks of fashion next It would be Impossible to detail all the Ins and outs of the new millinery, but an exaggerated flatness is the distinguishing feature of tho most popular models. The trim shapes of the Summer very wide at the front and dipping over the face and with next to no brim behind, will continue to be worn. With such headgear trim mings more than ever conform to the lines of the hat In some cases. Indeed, they seem part of It, folds of velvet or silk mingling with other folds made In the hat itself. The side brims of these flat models curve slightly upward with puffed and crimped locks only filling out the un derspaces. The short backs are met by the coiffure"; over which ends, If they are not too long, may dangle. Another very flat hat Is a huge low crowned sailor, with a shallow upcurving brim. Such styles come in tho brilliantly colored felts. in vogue, and are seen with wing and ribbon trimmings. The garni tures are put on very simply and always with an eye to preserving the flat, pan effect for these great round hats are de lightfully suggestive of cake pans. A stylish model in green felt the vivid ELEGANT "ItBADY-MADES." t Patrick green revealed an unusual smart ness in the arrangement of the trimming. White satin ribbon composed this, folded In a narrow crown band and bunched in two huge rosettes which were placed un der the brim Just back of each ear. A soft bow filled in the back space between these, and directly in front of the hat were two parrot wings in green and blue. These very narrow and sharply pointed, were interlocked and posed across the hat In an almost straight line. The effect was very stylish and simple enough for any body to follow. In variety and coloring the range in new hat materials is enormous. Braid hats of several textures sometimes taffeta vel vet and chenille combined come In bril liant colors, all trimmings preserving the startling tint. Again there will be a hat In shaded colors blues and greens min gled, reds fading to the palest pinks, and purple ending In violet. Among these novelties, for of course these hats are only novelties, are some little toques made of velvet Autumn leaves, which rceplen dently set off plain tailor frocks. Large plume-trimmed hats are seen among thelner toppings, the shapes sug gesting the old Gainsboroughs without being large. These will be worn very much on the side of the head, as if thJ were ready to fall off, in fact. Other brd hats, those evenly balanced in shape as trimming, will continuo to sit the he; squarely, with the downward dip over ti face. Early importations in coats show thl they are to be in many lengths. Tl models tnese snops are taking to al mainly of the three-quarter variety, wil loose backs, open sleeves and many vaa ations of tne strap trimmings. Theso not universally becoming, though there no aouDt out tnat tney are very col yenlent styles. Many of the new styles give ideas f the making over of garments, the sklr with hip-gore and narrow breadths beiJ especially suggestive. For these almol any skirt of the past three seasons be used as it is quite within the provinl of fashion to have both the yoke and tl flounce In a contrasting material. Wil black cloth any figured taffeta In a smal design can be used. This shaping the hi gore, tne Hounce and bodice proper. F the rest of the gown, the middle skirt ai! bolero jacket, use the cloth, first seeiil that It la well cleaned and pressed. MARY DEANJ HOUSE-HUNTING FOR A LIVING One Clever New York Woman Has Established a New Vocation and Filled a Long-Felt Want. HOUSE-HUNTING, that bane of thou sands of families the world over, hns been turned into a most profitable em ployment by an energetic woman in New York. With no other capital than pleas ing manners, a good address, a smart walking costume, and cards engraved like fashionable visiting cards except for the words "professional house-hunter" In the lower left hand corner, sho has estab lished herself in business among a class of people who, while not tho wealthiest, are well enough off to live In private houses or expensive apartments, and who will gladly pay for comfort and conven ience. Other women may adapt her Idea to other towns, and to people In all sorts of circumstances. She began by calling from door to door In what seemed a promising neighbor hood, and explaining to every lady she succeeded In seeing that she proposed making a regular business of finding homes for people who were about to move, iid who wished to escape the weary round of searching for themselves. Given an idea of the house or apartment desired price, location, number of rooms, etc., she would scour all possible neigh borhoods, call upon the real estate agents, go through the houses personally, and furni3h detailed descriptions of those which were most suitable. For her serv ices she asked $1 down and $5 additional when her efforts had been rewarded with success. She met scarcely a housekeeper who was not charmed with her plan. A few orders were given her even on those first rounds. Many women asked her to call several months later, when they would be moving. But most of her first engage ments were obtained by asking the ladles she taw if they knew of any families who might be Interested In her work, and ob taining from them the names and ad dresses of friends who were about to 11 chango their residences. Before long she had all the work she could attend to. The first two months were the hardest There were so many neighborhoods to be explored and tho approximate renting prices of houses and anartments to learned. The professional house-huntJ also visited dozens of renl estnto nfani to explain her business, and to ask, the! assistance, irom uiese sue met with ready response. Thev acreed to srr her weekly lists of the homes at the disposal wnicn wouui do HKely to IntcreJ her. nnd thev were tvHl!nr tn niw v..-l small commission on every flat or houJ snc renteu ror tnem. Owners of larf apartment-houses also offered her (Concluded on Page 30.) French storm coat.
