28
THff SUNDAY OBEGONIAN, PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 21, 1902.
KNOWS SHE IS GOING TO BE A PICTURE
EVER PRESENT IDEA" IN Tt& RUND OF THE
WOMAN DEVOTED TO FASHION
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Black: Point d'erit over rose, TOrfte olnt d'eprit vritk the new pearl trimming:. a wine-colored goTO made over greea -ilk. . WSJe and 8carlet-A nsEcatlon of the French "devl dress."
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THE well-dressed -woman Is always a
picture. She knows, from the mo
ment that she purchases the fabric
for her frock to the moment that she
stands before the mirror and takes a last
long, satisfying look at the tout ensem
ble, that she Is going to be a picture.
From the ribbons on her hat to the
buckles on her shoes, she has worked con
scientiously to carry out the one effect
which photographed itself upon her mind
when she first planned her costume. It is
not only In her ruffled Summer frocks and
3mart little sunbonnets that she looks as
though she should be framed, but in every
garment she dons, from her lace-trlmmed
night robe to her fur-trimmed Winter
coat. Like the actress, sho considers her
self in perspective, places herself men
tally ageinst the natural and proper back
ground, and begins to draw in the lines
which will complete the picture.
This means, of course, of the well
dressed woman; not of the woman who Is
merely smart, because sho knows what Is
being worn and has the money to purchase
it, who wears a Gainsborough hat, a Gib
son waist and Colonial shoes without a
pin-prick of pride or conscience, without
one pang of the artistic souL The well
dressed woman Is like the clever, chlo
Parislenne, who always "Eces herself," as
the actress would express it. In a frame,
and who consequently is always charm
ingnever over-dressed. Even the nurs
ery maids in Paris are smart. They
study themselves, as nursery maids, and
live up tp the artistic ideal of the nursery
maid. Just as we study ourselves as Gib
son girls or Christie girls and work night
and day to "look our part3." The Paris
Ian shop girls, too, are chic and attractive
looking. They do not aim to be cheap
imitations of the society buds, but place
themselves, mentally, behind the counter
and decide first what will look most ap
propriate, most charming -and most pic
turesque In the environment, which, how
ever simple, must be theirs. It is art, art,
art with perhaps an exceptionally shape
ly corset which makes the Parisian wo
man the leader, of fashion.
Autumn, and this Autumn In particular,
gives the girl who would be a picture the
most wonderful opportunities to carry out
her ambition. Autumn, with Its warm,
glowing . tints, Is the sort of background
against which to wear poppy-wreathed
hats, or scarlet shooting jackets and scar
let fedoras. This Autumn the Importers
are showing robes and skirts and jackets
that look quite as though they had been
cut from an old-time picture book. One
enterprising New York shop already has
several dozen Imported frocks on exhibi
tion. Strolling through Its show rooms
one can almost fancy one's self back In
the days of one's grandmother, so quaint
are the little brown silk mantles with their
brown velvet bands, the dove-colored zlb
ellnes with their grotesque sleeves, and
the- black lace evening gowns with their
flowing angels' wlnga There, are glowing
red tailor suits, too, that remind one of
Autumn leaves, and yellow silks and pon
gees that look like reflections from the
golden rod. Every gown 6eems to have a
motif, to be a picture in which it is oifly
necessary to set the right girl.
A young woman who returned from
Paris last week brought back a trunk
full of pretty between-eason picture
gowns that will without doubt bo copied
wherever they are seen. September is
such an interrogation point In the punc
tuation of the fashions that any ideas
which come floating over the water are at
once snapped up. The prettiest of thl3
girl's frocks was a street suit of wine
colored zlbeline built on green silk. The
skirt was perfectly plain, except for three
broad bands switched about the lower half,
and was cut with the seam down the cen
ter of the front. The Jacket was blouse,
with a vest of white velvet and a chic
collar smartly appllqued In dead white
guipure. The sleeves were of the now
popular shape, flat at the top. but ridicu
lously full below the elbow. With this dis
tinctly Autumnal frock was worn a fluffy
white hat, heavily laden with scarlet cher
ries. Not every girl could stand so strik
ing and vivid a costume; but cny little
friend from Paris Is dark and chic, with
soft brown hair, and she looked like a
scarlet poppy, just in season.
A very different picture was a little
candle-light frock of Innocent, pristine
point d'esprit brought over In this same
magical trunk. There is nothing quite so
becoming to a really young girl as point
d'esprit. It reminds one of snowdrops,
lilies of the valley, lnnocense, purity,
graduating exercises, coming-out parties,
and all the things we are wont to asso
ciate with unspoiled, beautiful girlhood.
This gown, built over white silk, with the
becoming baby waist and the modestly
low neck, which buds affect, was made
with the horizontal tucks which have a
tendency to broaden a too, too attenuated
figure. Its only trimming and Its crown
ing glory was several rows of half-Inch
white velvet ribbon down the front of
both skirt and waist. This was caught in
loops and festoons at artistically uneven
points, and in,,lts folds held small bunches
of lilies of the valley, which were the key
note to the motif of the costume. A soft
sash of chiffon, with very broad ends fall
ing to the hem of the skirt and even a
trifle below the deml-traln, heightened the
impression of flufllness and fluttered In the
dance like angels' wings. It would seem
quite easy to be good and unsophisticated
and ingenue In such a gown.
"You see," said the newly arrived one,
lifting out of the magical trunk a black
point d'esprit creation over rose pink silk,
"I had one Ingenue dress and one worldly
dress. This black and rose is very world
lyand I assure you very expensive. And
this," shaking out a long, curly, blllowy
French negligee. In white scarlet, "is my
devil dress.' The 'devil dress' is quite the
rage in Paris now. I couldn't quite dare
wear one over here, you know, so I came
as near it as possible in my negligee."
There was something truly -Satanic in the
scarlet folds of the silken robe; but the
effect was very much softened by a white
chiffon yoke arid a full white chiffon front
caught under bands of black ribbon vel
vet, held with rhlnestone buckles.
.Her trunk was a revelation, after pecp3
into the trunks of other girls just bai
from mountains or sea trunks full
faded finery, draggled and torn danl
frocks, shirt waist suits shrunken to tl
knees, and dingy with grass stains ai
wheel grease, hats that looked like. ti
drooping feathers of a badly batter!
cock, and petticoats limp with the liml
ness tnat comes of salt water and moul
tain dew.
"But how," she was asked, "could yi
know what to get so early in the seasol
and aren't you afraid that your frocl
will not bo just what you may wal
later?"
Oh, no," was the reply. "If one star
out with the right idea, the idea thl
one is to bo a picture, you know, a J
never wavera from that point, no mattl
how tempting the bargains and fads
every counter in the shops, one can nl
make a mistake. For, after all. the fnsl
Ions arc but the evolution of nrtisn
Ideas, and with a little logic one ml
tell months ahead just what they
going to be."
BLUE, STILL. REMAINS FASHION'S 'FALL COLOR
STYLES ARE CONVENIENT FOR MAKING OVER OLD GOWNS
SUMMER HAT SHAPES WILL BE WORN THIS WINTER
THE first thing one notices with the
new Autumn suits is a tendency
toward braid trimmings and
stitched strappings of all sorts. In form
the gowns, even the plainest of them,
run to" skirts that train slightly, with a
blouse Jacket or Eton coat for the upper
garment. Such styles, however, are -distinctly
for street wear. The dressier
frocks, those worn for calling, recep
tions, the theater, etc., show blouse or
round bodices, made elaborate with em
broideries and lace vests. A few coats
are seen with these very smart costumes,
but the best of them even suggest the
round waist, since most of the tall Is In
the rear.
One very stunning new coat for tailor
frocks shows the close fit and rear cut
of a riding jacket a long, plain, snugly
fitting skirt with this adding to the horsy
look.
More glove-tight than ever are all
skirts at the top, where habit backs, fit
tlng without a wrinkle, and short hip
r f
A Sivassrer Rasrlan.
, mJ
yokes, are distinctive features of the
newest styles.
Some deere of train is also
observable, but being less stiffened than J
formerly, the flouncing bottoms fall with I
considerably more grace. Another point I
for congratulation Is that the hideous
"symmetrfcals" the graphic stage term,
which, for a season or more, built out
too meager hips, bjivo had their day.
The hips of tho fashionable woman must
look small whether they are or not, and I
the smaller they look the better. ' I
A trio of charmlasr street gowns, de-!
Ilghtfully Illustrate these subtle but nec
essary points. Two demonstrate the In
vading hip yoke, which in all cases Is cut
short at the back and to dip downward
at the front. Never Is such a line de
parted from; it Is Intended that the curve
of the yoke must follow that of the gir
dle, which at the front curves more than
ever low.
French cloth the sort of broadcloth
that has a satiny finish In one of tho
new blues, composes the more elegant
of the three costumes. A very .hand
some embroidery In blue and black or
naments the blouse waist, but the skirt
depends entirely upon stitched strappings
of the same cloth for trimmings. These
outline a hip yoke and graduated flounce,
horizontal bands running between at
every narrow gore. At the bottom the
gore binds cross the flounce, the ends
pointed and graduating in length, showing
longest at the back.
With the rich embroidery mentioned
more bands appear upon tho bodice,
shaping a corset girdle shoulder, caps
and cuff bands for .the sleeves. The
tucked vest Is of white moussellnc crossed
by narrow strings of black panne. These
hold together the embroidered blouse
fronts, whose splendor Is further em
phasized by large buttons of sapphire
and silver. A black mouoscline cravat,
smartly swathes the throat and the folded
girdle is of the black panne.
Tho second gown in point of elegance
Is also blue, for blue you know 13 fash
Ion's latest caprice. She does not con
fine .herself to any particular shade, but
offers tints for every taste, "legitimate"
blues our old friends the navy shades
and "Illegitimate" ones. If we may uso
the word, for some of the " numberless
mad-tinted dyes. The old-time sky blue,
rebaptized azure, Is a favorite color for
airy evening gowns, and a new and very
eccentric tint js called "gaslight blue."
Trimmings of black and white deck
many of these radiant colors,' the combi
nations showing In braids with a tartan
weave and checked silks. On a bewitch
ing house gown of pale blue French cash
mere, black and white checked silk was
used with a surprisingly smart effect.
Also It suggested daz2ling possibilities
in the way of economy, for such silks are
never dear, and short remnants in them
can always be found.
But to return to our second frock,, whoso
texture Is no more than English serge,
in a lightweight quality. The unllned skirt
Is lightly tucked and falls from a scal
loped hip yokb over a black taffieta
"drop," which, you know, is dressmaker's
Jargon for lining. The trimming Is nar
row black braid, put on the skirt in an
odd band to simulate a graduated flounce.
On tho bodice, which goes under the belt
at the back and has loose Eton fronts, the
braid is differently disposed.
A number of rows, closely massed, form
a border for the cut-out neck and fronts
which lap slightly, some scattered ends
of braid, finished with heavily embroidered
knots, giving tho necessary look of rela
tionship with the skirt Similar swirls
ornament the drooping puffs of the
sleeves, whose upper portions more than
usually accentuate tho present closely at
this point.
The third gown, though mido with less
dressy Intention than these two. to the
sophisticated mind, far surpasses them in
dash. Brown and white mottled-wool Is
Its ground material, plain brown cloth
bands, with white cloth edges both left
raw accomplishing a decoration Infinitely
effective. Two of these outline the nar
row apron gore of the skirt, two others
running round with a double flounce sug
gestion, swirling, oddly at the sides and
back.
AnEton coat Is the simple upper gar
ment, sleeves allgbtljr flowing and fronts
lapping diagonally and dropping below
the belt, In a stylish point
A military looking frogging Is made
across the fronts of the coat, which Is cut
out in the neck after the manner of all
of the best Etons. This the frogging
Is achieved by a number of short straps
with pendant tabs. The French back of
the coat shows only two straps, these
continuing over the shoulders and down
the side fronts suspender fashion. .
All of these gowns are 'from ready-made
models, whereby you may see that the
chops are catering more than ever to the
demand for elegance. Nevertheless none
of them were very dear.
On the contrary, considering they were
all built upon silk, they were, as com
pared to former prices, astonishingly
cheap. Sixty dollars, ?40 and $33 were the
prices with which they were ticketed."
Of even more Importance than tho gown
is the hat with which Beauty will soon
crown herself, the whole style of the toi
lette depending now upon the fitness and
becomingness of the headpiece. The shape
of this is not necessarily dependent upon
the genre of the costume, stiff severe ef
fects being seen with the most frou-frou
costumes, and some eminently picturesque
with the plainest dresses.
What is required is that you get the
right thing and wear 'it rightly, which
means that you must consider your type
41rst of all and the kinks of fashion next
It would be Impossible to detail all the
Ins and outs of the new millinery, but an
exaggerated flatness is the distinguishing
feature of tho most popular models. The
trim shapes of the Summer very wide at
the front and dipping over the face and
with next to no brim behind, will continue
to be worn. With such headgear trim
mings more than ever conform to the
lines of the hat In some cases. Indeed,
they seem part of It, folds of velvet or
silk mingling with other folds made In the
hat itself. The side brims of these flat
models curve slightly upward with puffed
and crimped locks only filling out the un
derspaces. The short backs are met by the
coiffure"; over which ends, If they are not
too long, may dangle.
Another very flat hat Is a huge low
crowned sailor, with a shallow upcurving
brim. Such styles come in tho brilliantly
colored felts. in vogue, and are seen with
wing and ribbon trimmings. The garni
tures are put on very simply and always
with an eye to preserving the flat, pan
effect for these great round hats are de
lightfully suggestive of cake pans.
A stylish model in green felt the vivid
ELEGANT "ItBADY-MADES."
t
Patrick green revealed an unusual smart
ness in the arrangement of the trimming.
White satin ribbon composed this, folded
In a narrow crown band and bunched in
two huge rosettes which were placed un
der the brim Just back of each ear. A
soft bow filled in the back space between
these, and directly in front of the hat
were two parrot wings in green and blue.
These very narrow and sharply pointed,
were interlocked and posed across the hat
In an almost straight line. The effect was
very stylish and simple enough for any
body to follow.
In variety and coloring the range in new
hat materials is enormous. Braid hats
of several textures sometimes taffeta vel
vet and chenille combined come In bril
liant colors, all trimmings preserving the
startling tint. Again there will be a hat
In shaded colors blues and greens min
gled, reds fading to the palest pinks, and
purple ending In violet. Among these
novelties, for of course these hats are
only novelties, are some little toques made
of velvet Autumn leaves, which rceplen
dently set off plain tailor frocks.
Large plume-trimmed hats are seen
among thelner toppings, the shapes sug
gesting the old Gainsboroughs without
being large. These will be worn very
much on the side of the head, as if thJ
were ready to fall off, in fact. Other brd
hats, those evenly balanced in shape as
trimming, will continuo to sit the he;
squarely, with the downward dip over ti
face.
Early importations in coats show thl
they are to be in many lengths. Tl
models tnese snops are taking to al
mainly of the three-quarter variety, wil
loose backs, open sleeves and many vaa
ations of tne strap trimmings. Theso
not universally becoming, though there
no aouDt out tnat tney are very col
yenlent styles.
Many of the new styles give ideas f
the making over of garments, the sklr
with hip-gore and narrow breadths beiJ
especially suggestive. For these almol
any skirt of the past three seasons
be used as it is quite within the provinl
of fashion to have both the yoke and tl
flounce In a contrasting material. Wil
black cloth any figured taffeta In a smal
design can be used. This shaping the hi
gore, tne Hounce and bodice proper. F
the rest of the gown, the middle skirt ai!
bolero jacket, use the cloth, first seeiil
that It la well cleaned and pressed.
MARY DEANJ
HOUSE-HUNTING FOR A LIVING
One Clever New York Woman Has Established a
New Vocation and Filled a Long-Felt Want.
HOUSE-HUNTING, that bane of thou
sands of families the world over, hns
been turned into a most profitable em
ployment by an energetic woman in New
York. With no other capital than pleas
ing manners, a good address, a smart
walking costume, and cards engraved like
fashionable visiting cards except for the
words "professional house-hunter" In the
lower left hand corner, sho has estab
lished herself in business among a class
of people who, while not tho wealthiest,
are well enough off to live In private
houses or expensive apartments, and who
will gladly pay for comfort and conven
ience. Other women may adapt her Idea
to other towns, and to people In all sorts
of circumstances.
She began by calling from door to door
In what seemed a promising neighbor
hood, and explaining to every lady she
succeeded In seeing that she proposed
making a regular business of finding
homes for people who were about to
move, iid who wished to escape the
weary round of searching for themselves.
Given an idea of the house or apartment
desired price, location, number of rooms,
etc., she would scour all possible neigh
borhoods, call upon the real estate agents,
go through the houses personally, and
furni3h detailed descriptions of those
which were most suitable. For her serv
ices she asked $1 down and $5 additional
when her efforts had been rewarded with
success.
She met scarcely a housekeeper who
was not charmed with her plan. A few
orders were given her even on those first
rounds. Many women asked her to call
several months later, when they would
be moving. But most of her first engage
ments were obtained by asking the ladles
she taw if they knew of any families who
might be Interested In her work, and ob
taining from them the names and ad
dresses of friends who were about to
11 chango their residences. Before long she
had all the work she could attend to.
The first two months were the hardest
There were so many neighborhoods to be
explored and tho approximate renting
prices of houses and anartments to
learned. The professional house-huntJ
also visited dozens of renl estnto nfani
to explain her business, and to ask, the!
assistance, irom uiese sue met with
ready response. Thev acreed to srr
her weekly lists of the homes at the
disposal wnicn wouui do HKely to IntcreJ
her. nnd thev were tvHl!nr tn niw v..-l
small commission on every flat or houJ
snc renteu ror tnem. Owners of larf
apartment-houses also offered her
(Concluded on Page 30.)
French storm coat.