The Sunday Oregonian., July 06, 1902, PART FOUR, Page 28, Image 28

28
SHE SUNDAY OKEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JULY 0, 1902.
BARGAINS IN ATTRACTIVE GOWNS.
FETCHING THINGS WHICH MAY -BE BOUGHT CHEAP OR COPIED sr FOUR
STUNNING SAMPLES FROM THE MIDSUMMER SALESV
costume. The trimming Is sapphire
blue soutache braid In two widths, the
narrower beading the wide In Jour
ro'jre. This outlines a deep circular
flounce pn the skirt, and the basques of
the bodice, which Is girdled with a belt
made by two rows of the wldo braid.
The bishop sleeves are. tucked at the
outer-arm, and are finished at the wrist
with buttoned bands.
A charming featuro Is the low, round
collar, which leaves the throat bare.
while a. scarf of checked- bluo and white
silk, tying under this at the bust, con
tributes further prettlness.
The Jacket Is lined with a thin-white
taffeta, and the price of this bewitching
rig is Just $22.
Swagger accesorles for such a get-up
are a white Panami walking hat, a
blue and white parasol, and white wash
kid gloves. Ping-pong silk (30 named
because of the spots) composes the sun
shade, and a scarf of- thin French lace
becomingly veils the brim of 'the hat.
The second charmer in this bargain
group Is a sailor dress of white butch
er's linen. It Is trimmed with the same
linen In a cool tapestry blue, this show
ing In a sailor collar with tie. deep, point
ed cuffs and a belt band. Nautical em
blems, in white, ornament the outside
of the cuffs, and all of the blue garnish
ing la "bordered with white stitching.
Fourteen Jlttlo dollars will buy this
darling, which with many sisters, slight
ly differing In feature, is displayed by a
terial curiously suggestive of chenille,
makes the all-white hat, with the sharp
ly pointed wing at the front. Though
the shape sits flatly on the head flat
hats are the thing the brim rolls up
from the face and dips at the back,, the
fancy straw trimming it with a big ro
sette and roll. A short laco scarf, cas
cading over the hair, is the only other
trimming.
As to this curly maiden's bodice It is
part of a "gown In yellow and brown
satin foulard, with deckings of blick
cbantllly lace and wallilower yellow
ribbon.
If only in the way of tone combina
tion !tis heavenly, of course, but truth
compels me to say that the bargain
wand has- not yet touched It. If you
W3.lt long enough It may fall from its
high estate and yet be yours for a song;
but meanwhile its cruel keepers cay
J65," if you please, and stare stonily
If you feebly hint at less.
It la wonderful how adamantine store
people can be before they catch the
bargrln fever. At the department
stores, Indeed, it Is as much as your life
Is worth to suggest a come down In
price, but the smaller and more select
places will often listen to you. Where
fore, It comes about that though your
cars may be boxed on Sixth avenue for
a thing, on Fifth you will be politely
given a, chair while madamo and the
saleslady whisper. This It European
policy. And very good policy it is, too.
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GOOD COMPLEXION:
( .1
Magaret L. Briggs' Talk With Girls This Time
About Their Faces and The Way to
Take Care of Them. '
rBW YORK July 1. (Special. Corre
spondence.) The woman who has
an appetite for bargains is in clover
at this moment The chops are full of
them. Summer prices always lowering
-with July, which is the month for cheap
hats and cowns. So one encounters dresses
Trtiich wore $60 and 560 at the "beginning '
of the -season reduced to something in
the, twenties.
The drop in millinery prices is even
more marked, many hats selling for a
fourth of their original cost. Five dol
lars is the favorite bargain price for
Summer hats, and for this sum you can
find confections by the best modistes.
The reason of all this is obvious.
With July the mercantile world is al
ready thinking of Autumn styles, und
there is no money in "left-overs." When
school opens (a facon de parler) every
thing must be fresh and new. This is
trade happilyIor the bargain lovers.
Four stunning samples from, the- mid
Summer sales are shown by the week's
photographs. The queen bee of the lot
is the gown of white wool, worn by
the charming young woman who looks
over her left shoulder. If there is a new
moon anywheTe she will have her wish;
for never was the luck of tho dead
planet more sweetly petitioned.
An unllned "gored skirt, and a close
Jacket with black tails compose this
GBACEFUL POISE MAY BE ACQUIRED
SIMPLE RULES' BY WHICH WOMEN CAN LEARN CORRECT CARRIAGE
AN INCIDENTALLY STUDY ONE'S CHARACTER
WHILE the American woman stands
at the head of all other countries
for her intellectual capacity; her good
sense and perfect taste in dress, she un
fortunately cannot boast a 'perfect car
riage and poise of the body.
The Mexican vomen are said to possess
the mobt perfect figures. Their -carriage
Is admirable. Why?
" Because they aro taught from childhood
So carry jars of water or small articles
upon their head, until they are old enough '
to support something heavier. The ilexi- I
can women understand poise.
In France, the young women in schools
are taught to walk in the same manner.
They ita'iid erect and place a small bottle,
a book, or other object upon the head, in
order to learn to step upon the ball of
the foot, to walk from the Iiips without
moiing the shoulders, and lo bend the
knee without shambling or. scuffling.
Ear. shoulder ana hip are then in line,
and give the correct poise. To keep this
the person njust not step upon the heel
first with toes turned up, but throw the
"weight upon-T-he ball of the foot, pointing
the toes opt well.
Children who are taught from Infancy
to "walk with toes out have no deformities
in the symmetry of their limbs. Bowed
legs may be straightened in this way dur
ing childhood. Toeing in is conducive
to a. waddHnggalt.
The heels of shoes have long been a
mooted question among women and shoe
manufacturers. The common-sense heel,
Louis Qulnze, or the "go-between" which
shall it be?
If tfe feet of two babies are carefully
examined, you -will find them entirely dif
ferent in shape. One -may be as beauti
ful as the other in formation, but there
Is an arch to one foot; it is shorter and
entirely different from the one beside it
for comparison, vhlfch may be slender,
narrow and flat, with little if any arch.
Asrthe child matures, tho flat foot will
require low. common-sense heels for com
fort. To put that foot inside a shoe with
high heels w-ould torture it as if it were
on a medieval rack, the high arch of the
shoe pressing underneath causes an un
bearable pain to the sensitive nerves. The
French heol throws the foot and body
Into an absolutely unnatural position.
The foot of the other child, when ma
tured, will suffer the same agony, if placed
Jn a common-sense, a flt-heeled shoe.
Cramps ensue for want of support to the
muscles of the arch; this the high-heeled
shoes can give, because of the curve. The
shoe, fitting close to the Instep, is a rest.
Iouls Qulnze heels give the correct line
to the bail of the arched foot. They aro
made of wood, with a -wide leather' lift;
and any unpleasant jar may be easily rem
edied by the addition of a rubber covering.
The hccl of the shoo must be suited to
the foot or the body is thrown out of
poise.
In schools the Delsarte poise is taught
for the body. At a recent commencement
of the Normal School in Philadelphia, the
young ladles were commended for their
graceful "walk, the superb poise of the
body.due entirely to the practice of stand
ing erect, walking from the hips, stepping
out properly, and having" their heels suited
to the formation of their feet.
A -woman n ho is "w ell dressed and has a
fine carriage will often attract more at
tention than the possessor of a pretty face.
There is a magnetism a distinguished air
about one whose head is well poised upon
her shoulders, and can walk without
twisting or strutting.
The poetry of motion is grace. It may
be acquired as easily as any art. Fore
thought will be needed at first until it be
comes a habit; then, it is as natural to
walk correctly as to eat and speak prop
erly. Do not hold the back and shoulders
rigid; it gives a stiff appearance to the
walk, which should be supple and easy.
To avoid stiffness, one must not be too
cautious. Nothing makes a person more
awkward in appearance than to bo con
scious of every action or move. Be sure
of yourself, practice walking with a book
on the head, throwing the chest out and
hins back, until you gain confidence in
yourself. Then it becomes second nature
to sit, stand and walk well.
A child cannot be too carefully trained
In this respect, for the health is greatly
affected by1 a cramped and stooping pos
ture, leavliy? no scope for the play of the
lungs in breathing.
I Glance about you on the street. Notice
tbe people passing their carriage and
step. You will soon learn to read char
acter in this way.
Business takes long strides and has a
quick, nervous gait.
Stubbornness waddles, pointing deter
minedly to self with every step.
Happy-go-lucky has a free and easy
walk, throwing his arms and legs about
as if hung on pivots.
Dignity is studiously erect, measuring
her'stcps carefully and looking neither to
the right nor left. It is exaggerated style
of the correct pblse.
Independence struts, positively tipping
backward and swaggers his shoulders and
tiptllts his hat, saying, in appearance, if
not in words: "A flg for your opinion."
Prudery walks cautiously, with small,
mincing steps.
Equipoise wralk3 with such grace, with
such ease, she attracts the eye of the ad
miring throng. Entering a room, she .fas
cinates all about her.
It is the little things in a day which
combine to make up the events of a life
time. We cannot be too careful in guard
ing tho training of the body. Some, are
blessed with beautiful faces; others with
fine figures; many have luxurant hair and
a graceful carriage. Tet It is possible for
each to possess, in part, all of these at
tributes of beauty, with study and prac
tice. And the least among these attractions
is the -walk. A lady is oftener Judged by
tho refined manner in which she carries
herself than in any other -way.
Longfellow Joins the opinion of tho
world In "Hyperion": "Noiseless as a
feather or a snowflakc did her feet touch
the earth. She seemed to float in the air,
and the floor to bend and wave under fier
as a branch when a bird alights upon It
and takes wing again."
huge department store. Some of its kin
dred frocks run to color on the skirt as
well as bodice, the solid linens there
shaping bands, or sometimes a deep
stitched hem. Canvas, duak and pique
aro other materials in this model. '
Simple and Dressy Headgear.
The hat worn by the sailor girl, as
well as the other two, figures under the
55 head. It is of Cuban Panama in white,
one of thoso grayish splotchy whites,
which never seem altogether clean 'and
which are always convincingly stylish.
Narrow black velvet ribbon, steel buckles
and a bow of black watered ribbon are
neat and effective trimmings.
White chrysanthemum straw, a ma-
when a season no longer wears the
blush of youth.
To return to the subject In hand. The
last hat, a sort of glorified Rough
Rider, is of dead white Panama, jaunt
ily yet simply garnished, with black
velvet. Across the front, posed at a
swashbuckling angle, a long white
quill is placed over a black one. Both
are held down by a great round Jet or
nament, and a high crown band and a
narrow brim edge of velvet are tho
other details.
Tho accompanying shirtwaist i of
green and white wash silk, with Gibson
tucks widening the shoulders. Soldierly
square are now the shoulders of the
shirtwaist maiden. NINA FITCH.
HOW TO BEAUTIFY THE NECK
Streaks Due fo Wearing High Collars
Easily Removed
NOTHING is more aggravating to the
average woman than the black,
gray or brown streak that shows around
the neck after the wearing of high dress
collars. The mark is often the result of
bad dye in the facing of tho collar, and
half an hour devoted to facing of all of
one's collars with" white silk o even
white cotton will be well spent. Some
times the rubbing of the stiff band scars
the neck, and scrubbing with hard soap
only makes tho skin seem more sensitive,
and so still more darkly bruised.
Loosen the collars a little and have
them finished at tho top with a soft roll
of the material. Such a finish is always
becoming, and often removes tho trouble
in a little while.
If the mark must be taken off at short
notice, perhaps because a dress cut a
llttlo low in the neck is to bo worn, then
anoint the flesh thoroughly with warm
vaseline. Use a soft linen cloth dipped In
vaseline, applying it as if It were soap,
and turning the cloth "whenever tho ap
plied surface gets soiled. This is very Im
portant, or you will only scrub the stain
in deeper.
Let the neck "rest" a llttlo while, and
then with warm soapsuds and a very soft
sponge wash off the grease thoroughly.
Rinse with hot wyer several times and
then bathe with cold water till the skin
Is chilled. This should close the pore and
leavo the skin dry and smooth. Unless
this is accomplished the open pores and
greasy surface will only promptly attract
the stain again.
When the skin is entirely drv. dust
well with dry oatmeal. Rub oft llglftly,
and when the natural color of the skin
is regained, after all the manipulation,
the neck will. In nine cases out of ten,
be pretty and white.
When you are not in quite so much
hurry use warm soapsuds and sponge rub
bing, rinse thoroughly and chill with cold
water. In stubborn cases a paste of bread
dough bound about the throat overnight
by a linen scarf will leave tho skin
smooth and pure when washed off with
warm water In the morning.
As a race, we have gone complexion mad. Can any one take up a
paper nowadays without seeing in it one or tw.o wonderful recipes for
making the skin a marvelous white, or for relieving it of pimples and
spots?
Most of these recipes are so hopelessly ridiculous that It dees not
seem, possible that any woman would take them seriously, were it not
that they are for the most part saddled on to the name of some prominent
woman. Take Mme. Patti, for instance. She Is credited with using no
water on her face, but. Instead, creams and lotions whose names are le
gion. Why, if she were to use but half of them, she wouldn't have time to
entertain her friends In that delightful way of hers, or to do anything
much the livelong day but plaster a new lotion on her face every half min
ute. And the result w,ould be, not the beautiful complexion she now has,
but a face old and wrinkled.
As a matter of fact, Mme. Patti does wash her face, although she
does so rationally. She puts a few beautifying preparations on it, too
preparations she is convinced will not hurt her skin. ,
If women would but understand it, plastering the face with all kinds
of creams and lotions and astringents never would bring a good complex
Jon. These things are all very well in their way if their use is not carried
to extremes, but it's like giving a man who is sick a stimulant. It makes
him better for the minute, but he's a good deal worse afterwards.
Wrinkles, liver spots, a muddy complexion, pimples, blackheads, all
are the result of something much deeper than the skin. When you wish
a good complexion don't try to plaster up those aggravating spots, but go
to the mot of the trouble. Remember that the skin merely reflects the
-physical condition.
Why.yl have seen girls who spent hours each day on their complex
Ions, and yet had no end of pimples and blotches on their faces. In fact,
their great complaint was that the more they put on their faces, the worse
were their complexions.
These girls do not understand it, but the trouble with them lies in
their generative organs. Nature has provided the monthly illness express
ly that women may keep themselves beautiful. But unless that event is
regular and without pain, it isn't doing the task that nature assigned to
it. If 'it comes on too quickly, it causes a sallow complexion; if it Is de
layed, the face breaks out In pimples and the nose gets red, and in either
case the event is accompanied by pain that creates nervousness and a
fretfulness that brings more lines to the face than any woman would bt
lieve possible, if she had not investigated the matter.
Organic inflammation Is another great cause for a bad complexion. If
you will give a moment's thought to it, you will readily see that It would
be Impossible to have a clear complexion when there is some inflamma
tion of the female organs, or some unnatural discharge. The existence of
either indicates the presence of some foreign matter that, of course, must
affect the blood. And since the face Is more exposed to the air than any
other portion of the body, the blood carries all these impurities to the
face and deposits them there, to break out in all those eruptions we are
continually fighting.
Give up fighting the eruptions. Don't bother your brain about those
local troubles. Instead start in to fight those diseased and unnatural con
ditions that exist in your generative organs. Take Lydia E. Pinkham's
Vegetable Compound, and it will make you regular and stop unnatural
discharges. If you do that; before long your complexion will clear and the
pimples and the blackheads wjjl cure themselves. i
How many" women are there who go down to the thirties and forties
without having their faces covered with a network of wrinkles, until they
-look like railroad maps? Not many. Yet all these lines and wrinkles are
quite unnecessary, and would never be there If women would be but ra
tional. Oh, I know all about the troubles and worries and nervousness that
you say brings them. But just stop and think a. minute, and you will
know that half your worries are caused not by actual events, but by paiim
in the back and side, and other aches that come to women so frequently.
These pains make the daily life unbearable, until it seems almost impos
sible to get through with it and night finds the woman with a face
screwed up to the highest tension, and a whole lot of lines that cheerful
ness and good nature never put there.
Do stop it, my sisters. Get yourselves into proper condition. Look
after those unnatural aches and pains. Take Lydia E. Pinkham's Veget-
able Compound, and you won't be nervous and worried, and your face will
6mooth Itself out, and happiness will shine through the lines, and before
long the lines themselves will disappear.
When you reach that stage, you can devote a little attention to a
beautifying lotion if you wish. But don't put your faith in the wonderful
merits of any lotion to cure something that shows In your face, but really
exists in those organs peculiar to our sex.
CHAPTEk ON CROQUETTES
BEST SOLUTION OF THE UTILIZING OF COOKED
FOOD REMNANTS
TO the Question", "What is the most eco
nomical and at the same time, most
delicious and attractive way of serving
left-overs,' especially of meat, fish and
poultry?" there is but one answer, cro
quettes. Tiny, toothsome bits of food in a
.smooth,, creamy sauce, all Inclosed in a
contrasting coating of freshly fried bread
crumbs, Is a combination that lays claim
equally to our economical and esthetic
sense.
Nothing In the way of solid food but
may be utilized in this, transforming mix
ture. If left-over meat, fish or fowl be
scanty, it may "be eked out by a harmo
nious combination with rice, potato, maca
roni, stale bread crumbs or hceniny. A
scrap of bacon or ham, dried beef or liver
need not be despised, but may lend a bit
of good flavor.
Croquettes may form, the principal dish
at breakfast, lunch or supper: may repre
sent the entree course, or, with an accom
panying sweet sauce, may serve as a des
sert. They may also be used as a gar
nish for tho roast of meat, fish, poultry
or game.
A meatchopper Is an invaluable aid In
the making of these fried dainties. Uso
the finest knife for the meat, but be ever
on guard, lest the article chopped become
pasty and lose Individuality of structure
and flavor.
There are, of course, croquettes and cro
quettes, but for the making of these cu
linary creations in their most perfect es
tates, there are three indispensable rules
to be followed, the neglect of any one of
which will result in something else than
theperfect article.
Rule 1. Avoid unnecessary stirring in
mixing and seasoning, thus keeping tho
chopped article In distinct particles, and
avoiding a pasty consistency.
Rule 2. The sauce for croquette mix
tures must be fnlce as thick as the ordi
nary sauce for meat, fish or entrees.
Rule? 3. The coating and frying must
be perfectly done, or the crpquettes will
be cracked In frying.
The base of all croquettes Is a thick
sauce generally made of milk, sometimes
of veal stock. Tomato sauce may be mixed
with many kinds of croquettesr especially
meat or fish. Left-over gravy, when suf
ficiently thickened, may be utilized, but
Is not so delicate a3 a white sauce, except
In the case of beef croquettes, and for
these a rich beef gravy or tomato sauce
Is best. Rules which apply to the making
of one kind of croquettes applies to the
making of all. Seasoning and thjj harmo
nious combination of materials can bo
brought under no rules, but must be left
to the judgment of the cook.
To Slake Croqnette Snncc.
Put a full round tablespoonful of butter
Into a stewpan; when melted., but not
browned, sth" in two round tablespoons, or
one heaping tablespoonful of flour. Stir
till smooth over a moderate Are, add one
cupful or one-hajf pint of cold milk, half
of the milk at a time, and stir till per
fectely smooth and waxy. Season with
salt, white or cayenne pepper, or both,
and celery salt.
If for sweet croquettes tho seasoning is,
of course, omitted.
To one cup of the above croquette
sauce, add two cups of choppea meat.
This proportion varies somewhat with
different material, but In any case the
mixtures should bo as moist as possible,
yet stiff enough to hold their shape. When
the sauce and meat aro mixed together,
spread the mixture on a plate and let
stand 'till perfectly cold. The best plan
is to prepare the mixture, the day before
the croquettes are to be shapened and
fried. Tho colder tho mixture the more
easily the croquettes can be shaped.
When ready to shape the croquette,
take a pint or more of finely sifted stale
bread crumbs, and one egg beaten with
one tablespoon of cold water.
A generous tablespoonful of the mix
ture should be enough for one croquette.
Shape all the croquettes at once, as the
short period of standing makes them
easier to handle. Roll in crumbs, then
lay the croquette in the egg sauce, dip
the egg over till every spot Is covered,
for should one little spot be left bare it
will reveal Itself fn a dark, ugly crack
when the croquette Is fried. Lift care
fully out of the egg on a knife blade, let
the superfluous egg drain off. Coat again
with crumbs. Have the fat hot enough
to brown a cube of bread In 40 seconds.
Dip the frying basket In the fat to pre
vent the croquettes from sticking, put In
four of five croquettes, ahd lower Into tho
fat. Lift out the basket till the ebullition
subsides, then fry till crisp and well
browned, which should take about one
minute. Shake the basket 'to drain off
superfluous fat. and lay the croquettes on
sheets of blotting paper, or In a pan lined
with soft paper, which has been crumpled,
to make It more readily absorb the grease.
Lay on a platter lined with a napkin and
set in a moderate oven till ready to
serve.
The form of croquette may take on
many varied shapes. The cylinder and
the pyramid shapes are the most common.
Pears In surprise whioh strikingly resem
ble pears in shape, may be made by
shaping the mixture into a round ball
then compressing it at the top. putting
In a clove stem side out for the stem,
and another blossom end out at the blos
som end of the pear. Apples In surprise
are made by shaping into a ball slightly
flattened at each end a small twig stuck
in for the stem, and a clove blossom out
at the oposlte end. This Is done before
frying. Cutlet croquets are another -variety
In shape, with a piece of macaroni,
a lobster or a crab claw Inserted to repre
sent the bone. Nest-shaped croquettes aro
a pretty novelty. Rice or potato mixtures
are very appropriate, their tiny cavities
filled with a cube of Jelly or a spoonful
of minced meat or chicken. They must
of course be fried with the hollow tide.
Concluded on Pasa 20J