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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 21, 1900)
20 THE SUNDAY. X)REGOIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 21, 1900. iff & - a . 1HL$ dp lh Sisfliii"'"- 'Spiv1 i f IM It Wu H rfflUx if mI1-w iHilxTi - m j&msssszzzz TJp-to-Date Genius. Write on, O Genius! Bid your pen Still scurry o'er the page, Jor doubt the time Is coming- when Tou'll he the reigning rage. Tour diction, -with Its potent touch. On shelves shall be displaced. In "various stores you'll learn how much, A thought Is worth In trade. And you shall hear the loud applauso Which critics cannot hush, And feel that It Is you who cause A bargain-counter rush. Washington Star. STRIFE AMONG MODISTES Resultant Limitless Styles of Mid winter Garments for SufTerlus Wontanlcind's Selection. NEW YORK, Jan. IS. "What could be more ridiculous than the spasms of jealous rivalry among Parisian modistes. "My house," says one, "shall be characterized by this one original and exclusive style, and every gown that Tve make shall be known, by this peculiar shape the shapt of the year." "Costumes that come from our salon," says another, "are unmistakable. They are all plaited or tucked. Plaiting is the mot ol elegance,- and -we have made it so." "Every one recognizes," says a third, "the tight, clinging sheath-like effect of the gowns we turn out; no bungling, no plait ing, no tucking. All that sort of thing is well enough for women who are obliged to cover up the defects on ugly figures, or for the modiste to disguise poor cutting. For our part, we are both clever and ar tistic enough to see to It that each of our patrons shall leave our hands with a fis ure that is incomparably perfect. "We know how to assuage the offended dames whom nature has treated shabbily." Dresses are to be full, scant, ruffled, flattened, plain, elaborate, lined, unllned, clearing the ground, trailing, comes the babelish chorus from across the sea, and, 'like the wise judge in the fable, we, In this country, avail ourselves of the dispute and enjoy the best products of all, regarc less of the enmity between the designers, and, in fact, more often than not, ignorani of the very existence of the poor artist who has thrown his best efforts Into thu creation of a new style. In view of this tournament of needles and shears, it is small wonder that women are reveling in a greater variety of clothea than has ever heretofore been put forth in one season. No feminine type is for gotten. Any woman can be suited now adays, no matter what description she may answer to; no one but the designer re mains faithful to a particular mode. Two things that are most strongly distinctive of the year, and that will undoubtedly retain their favor a year hence, are fur trimmings, used upon promenade gowns, and the use of panne. Fur Yokes the Latest. ' Fur yokes, extending down over the shoulders, are the very latest innovation. "Ugh!" some one says, "how insufferably hot!" Of course they are hot. But what could be more desirable for winter. Then they are not supposed to be worn under cloaks, but constitute dress and wrap In one, and are planned solely for visiting and promenade. The rest of the bodlc Is usually heavily interlined, to obviate the necessity of a wrap. Boleros of broadtail are also emphatically the rage. One of the most delightful afternoon gowns has a skirt of black velvet. "With it Is worn a very short broadtail bolero, lapped over and fastened down the front. All of the edges of the bolero are incrusted with upturned points of ecru lace, re-embroidered with black chenille. A high, rolling collar of the broadtail is cut out squarely under the chin, to disclose a bow of wnite mousseline de sole. Below this, slightly to one side, the fastening is ef fected with brandebourgs of black che nille, with floating ends of chenille falling from them. Beneath the short bolero may be seen a wide corselet of white taf feta, tightly swathed in little folds around the waist. Black satin, instead of white taffeta, would make the waist seem small er. At the lower edge of the corslet, which is pointed down in front, is a flat, inch wide band of black velvet, embroidered with turquoise cabuchons, surrounded by tiny cut gilt beads, the margins of the band being covered with small turquoise naiiheads. Never before in the history of dress has fur been utilized unequivocally as a dress fabric. Very often gowns, instead of being made of cloth and trimmed witn fur, have the recognized order of things reversed by being made of fur and trimmed with cloth. An illustration of the new -vogue is shown on this page. The gown in question Is fit for a young queen, so rich Is the material, and so exquisite the style. The upper part of the skirt and the lower part of the bodice are of satin, finished with white cloth, laid In bias folda over a smooth-fitting silk foundation. In crustations of wide, ivory-colored entre deux ornament the cloth and lorm the V-shaped girdle and high collar. All of the rest of the ccstume is In royal ermine, a bow of deep violet panne at one side of the bust being the only touch of color. No one but a Frenchman could have been capableof an Idea so extravagant In ev ery way. The number of skins required for such a dress make It cost something fabuloua. It would hardly be practicable for wear In a smoky city; every one knows the aversion the poor little ermines have to being defiled. But It Can Be Hade Cheaper. The costume, however, which is not the least attractive amonc those that have been lately planned, can be admirably car ried out In less extraordinary materials. The yoke may be of fur, ermine, if so de sired, or chinchilla. Lustreless black cloth can be substituted for the white, and it may be stitched In small raised tucks 'n stead of laid In bias folds. The lace should be ecru rather than Ivory-colored, and may be whipped up with black chenille, and the whole thing may be given an advance note of fashion by having the remainder of the skirt and the sleeves in black panne, that delicious velvet that is as light as silk and as lustrous as satin. The close, standing collar should be of fur to match the yoke, sloped out comfortably under the chin and curved up in points at the eide. In the same sketch with the ermine gown Is a ravishing toilet, made almost entirely of broadtail. It is the only fur that can he affected by stout women, with out fear of Increasing their apparent size, and it Is so soft and pliable that It can be molded into any shape. The short bolero which Is fastened all the way down and the long, tight sleeves are of fur. At the lower edge the bolero Is cut In points, the point directly in front reaching almost to the waist-line. Beneath the bolero is a wide shepherdess girdle of prune-colored panne. The skirt Is of prune-colored panne, and is bordered with a band of dark mink or sable. Over It Is worn a tunic of broadtail, made skin-tight about the hips and falling in very long, sharp points from below the hips. The points are Irreg ular in outline and are bordered with che nille. At the neck Is a military collar of broadtail that Is surmounted by a tongue shaped collar of -the same fur, faced with prune-colored panne. A bow of pale prune colored mousseline de sole Is tied under the chin. The muff matches the fur band at the bottom of the skirt, and, unneces sary as it may seem, a mink or sable scarf Is supposed to accompany the 6uit, to harmonize with the muff. Not only are two kinds of fur used upon one gown, but velvets of different colors are used as well. To one who has not seen this combination of four heavy stuffs the description certainly suggests some thing horribly clumsy. Yet when they are actually made up by an adroit mod iste, the effect, far from being clumsy. Is svelt. and incomparably rich. It goes without saying that the lines are kept very simple, and that there is little possi bility of draping or folding. Only the best quality of materials can be used, and the colors must be most judiciously chosen. Robe of Blaclc Velvet. The best specimen of this style that has been imported so far Js a robe of black -velvet, with a wide corselet and a circular ruffle at the bottom of the skirt, in sapphire-blue velvet, elaborately embroid ered with jet spangles and chenille. The corselet -is very narrow at the sides and back, but wide in front and shaped into CaV TWO PARISIAN a point at the top and at the bottom. On the upper part of the bodice is a yoke of silvery chinchilla, cut off round behind and sloped down Into a point in front to .meet the upturned point of the girdle. A standing collar, having ears at the sides, is of fur, made in one piece with the yoke. The entire upper edge of the girdle Is bcund with a chinchilla band that seems' to be f continuation of the ' pSaTTt . IMP -v - ' " yoke, crossed and running around the body. N The sheath-like black velvet skirt is notched up in front and behind in a blunt Inverted V, and to this shaped edge the sapphire-blue, circular ruffle Is annexed. At each, side of the "skirt, several Inches above the heading of blue flounce, a large piece of chinchilla, the shape of an eighth of an orange, is set into the black vel vet horizontally. The fur pieces are so large that their tips just escape meeting at the front and back. The points on the skirt are joined, as it were, by two huge, oval sapphire buckles, with heavy rims of pearl. A smaller buckle graces the point of the yoke on the bodice.' A large abbe-shaped hat of black felt that goes with the gown has no other trim ming than two waving black ostrich plumes. It is the fashion now to have double storm collars, not merely faced, but real ly two collars. The inner one is of velvet or of satin, the outer one being presum ably of fur. The inner collars are just a shade snialler than" the outer- ones, and are beautifully embroidered. They are made detachable and' are adjusted to the Inside of the -coat collar by means of tiny hooks and eyes, the hooks being sewn to the lower edge of the velvet, and the silk eyelets worked Into the coat lining. This little fad affords a welcome relief from the annoyance of having the fur rub whatever dust it catches against the face, besides which it can be made ex tremely decorative. A sealskin coat may have an Inner collar of white satin em broidered in gold, varied for more ordi nary wear by a collar of rich cerise panne. As so little of the color is seen, the brightest hues may be used sapphire, emerald or scarlet. Embroidery Is becoming more and more complicated, as It is growing more and more in 'popularity. The most absurd lengths are gone to, in order to obtain some surprising resultf The latest bit of nonsense is a praze for twine embroidery. Ordinary druggists wrapping cord Is used, and we are assured with delight that when It is worked up no one would ever suspect Its humble origin. The two ply red and white, or blue and white cord, give the most artistic results, re sembling in a way certain Arabic em-i broidery. Regardless of the medium, em broidery of all sorts is strongly in vogue, and if anything extraordinary can be ob tained out of the most Impossible threads, the success of the embroidered article Is augmented tenfold. Triumph of Needlework. A very triumph of needlework is a bolero of black cloth, made quite small and short over three assimilated boleros that are allowed to show well beneath it. Each one of the "shams" is embroidered in a different design, made of a different material and In a different color. The one directly below the black body is in white cloth, the second Is In green velvet and the third is in old-rose satin. All are semi-concealed under a brilliant Egyptian embroidered in every conceivable tint. Boleros were never more admired than they are now. They range In shape and size from the tiny Empire, with the waist line way up under the arms, to the full length, tight-fitting ones, extending In a point or scallop, below the belt In front. Nothing could be prettier than one of these dainty boleros In renaissance lace, which any one who knows how to handle a needle can learn now to make in a couple of lessons. The lace boleros are caught together with rose-shaped rosettes of colored panne and worn with panne stocks to match the rosettes. For a foun dation, a white satin blouse Is particu larly lovely, especially If the lace Is In deep cream or ecru. Sometimes a wide girdle of panne, matching the stock and rosettes, is worn with the lace bolero Aid the whole thing Is donned over a sharply contrasting silk bodice. Plaits stitched at the edges so that they flatten to the figure are much in evidence. They were first seen in partially plaited skirts, but 'now give character to whole costumes. A remarkably chic visiting gown Is made In, the form of a clinging, curving princess In two parts. The skirt of silver-gray panne extends up above the waist line quite to the bust. It , Is notched down in a sharp open V at the center of the front and two shallower Vs at the sides of the bust. The whole bodice, which Is smooth-fitting as a jer- COSTUMES. sey, is of cream lace, embroidered with geraniums of scarlet velvet, and scarlet chenille is threaded in and out among the meshes of the lace. Inserted In the deep center V of the skirt Is an open vest of geranium velvet, ornamented with jeweled buttons. At the sides, the "skirt of gray panne reaches up to the armpits, and it is fitted by over- lapped plaits, that are stitched down as far a3 the knees. The upper part of the sleeyfr is, made In .one 'with the tight lace j yokea"n(L frpntr The rest of the sleeve, ' from allne on a par with the bust to the knucklesMs of gray panne, very smoothly fitted. AH of the edges of the panne, at the top and bottomrare piped with fur. A fur muff an fur toque accompany the own. The. latter ! folded in wrinkles, and decked, at regular Intervals around the crowr-with bunches of, scarlet velvet j geraniumsc jiot evening wear noining nas Jboen found to diminish the general partial ityforithe sparkling paillettes. J- r ,, , ANITA DE CAMPI. ,c-WHO'S THE WOMAN?" Metamorphosis of a Recently Wed ded Washington Widow's Portrait. ' "There Is a wealthy "Washington woman who has recently married for the second time," says the Washington Post. "Dur ing the lifetime of her first husband she was generally considered a rather plain looking woman. Her complexion was a trifle sallow, and her hair was of no par ticular color at all. It was at this period that the artist painted a miniature of her. A few months later her, husband died. "Inside of a year a good angel, in the shape of a hairdresser, had suggested to the widow the simple expedient of sham pooing her dull tresses with ordinary laun dry soap, which, as nearly every mahogany-haired woman knows, never fails to I bring out the most delightful of Titian t tints. The widow went from red brown hair to red gold hair, and Anally to a col- THE WINTER GIRL. By or very nearly flaxen. She patronized mysterious persons who gave her a roses-and-cream complexion, and then, just last summer, she bestowed her blonde and beautiful self on a second husband. A fortnight ago she came to the artist with the miniature. " T wish you'd touch this up a little for me,' she said. 'I want it to be a splendid likeness, for I'm going to have it reset and give it to my husband as a Christmas present. It used to look so much like me, but It doesn't now. Don't you think doesn't It seem to you that the color you used on my hair there has faded or turned dark, or something? Couldn't you' well and a gleam of frankness came Into her happy eyes 'won't you just simply blond ine that miniature to match me? I don't want my husband to know my hair ever was any other color than It Is right now. Won't you, please?' "So the miniature has been duly and properly and most beautifully blondlned to match the lady." CANES AGAIN IN FAVOR, Popularity of Walking: Sticks Great er Than for Years Past. After having been sidetracked for sev eral seasons, walking canes are once more In evidence among men with any pre hensions to being a la mode. Nowadays the cane is regarded as al most an Indispensable feature of gen teel dress by both young and old, in all .American centers of fashion. Some men who would not think of carrying canes on business days would feel 111 at ease on Sunday minus the walking stick. Large scale International events, accord ing to the Philadelphia Inquirer, which has been Investigating the matter, stim ulate the popularity of canes. The cen tennial exposition In 1876, and the Co lumbian world's fair, at Chicago In 1S93, boomed the use of walking sticks con--siderably. The Paris exposition is prob ably responsible for the present revival of the cane fashion. Dealers' attribute the Increase In business to the fact that a large majority of men attending exhibi tions invariably provide themselves with canes. As a souvenir, the walking stick is generally in great demand. A cane much favored this- season Is made of either penang or partridge wood. These slender, rigid sticks promise to supplant the popularity accorded bamboo and whangee canes last spring. Penang and partridge woods are of fine grain and dark brown, and are highly polished. Silver and gun metal trimmings are quite effective. Inlaid work Is preferred to ap plied ornamentation. Curved natural handles are the mode for canes made of penang, partridge and congo woods. The English furze is a heavy cane, and is, as a rule, expensive. Rhinoceros horn and ivory handles show to good advantage when banded with Inlaid silver. A, nov elty furze cane has a handle resembling the head of a golf 'stick, but made of ebony and trimmed with gold, reproduc ing in effect the brass-rimmed golf club. Black and white thorns share popu larity with the welchsel canes. Hickory sticks are also winning some attention. Light-colored, flexible canes are done for, at least for a time. The vogue pronounces it bad form to wear a cane showing the natural bark. Blackthorns are an excep tion, they being in favor only with the bark on. PEWTER IN FASHION. All Sorts of Knlck-Knaelcs Beiiis r Made of the Metal. There is a passion for pewter just now, says the Boston Herald; pewter made IntQball the knick-knackery that we have for the past few years been seeing In silver. There Is about pewter a softness and pliability which make it a fascinat ing material with which to model, and, therefore, besides its usefor small pieces, artists ore working; out some of their best designs in it. In fact, reduced fig ures from life and after the antique are being exhibited, along- with those of bronze and plaster. Smaller pieces, hap pily within reach of many, are bonbon ieres, trays and ash receivers, mugs, plates and small figures. All of these are presented in innumerable shapes and de signs. Collectors of mugs are being made hap py by this revival of the use of pewter, and little short of a madness is about regarding the number and rarity of those mugs seen at Informal evening parties or at other times decorating the side walls of dining-rooms. The plates also are mostly seen as "wall decorations, and pro duce a stunning effect when well hung against a brilliant background. It is not difficult to keep these pewter ornaments clean. A good rubbing with chamois every fortnight is all that Is nec essary. It is not desirable for them to have the shining luster of silver; the tone3 of pewter should be soft and gray. WHISTLE-WEARING FAD. Blade Into Dainty Ornaments for Men and Women. Whistles are being generally carried by men and women these days, quite com monly in the East. They serve various useful purposes, and are usually dainty articles of ornament. They are attached to fine safety chains, similar to those worn on eyeglasses, with a pin fasten ing them to the coats of male wearers, Malcolm A. Strauss la the New York HeraldV the whistles themselves being dropped in upper vest pockets. Women usually carry them suspended from their belts. The whistles are made of gold or gun metal. The gold one3 are most attrac tive when perfectly plain in design. Some of them are quite unique In shape and suggestive of tiny toboggans. Others are most elaborate. One that was recently seen and which had just come from Lon don was of gun metal, in the old-fashioned, orthodox shape. A large spider was wrought upon it and the cylinder part was encircled by its claws. In the back of the spider was sunken a very large emerald. Many whistles have to pazes and amethysts Inserted In the top. GOTHAM'S SHOPPING DISTRICT. "Where Women STvnrm to Men's Dis comfort and Disgrnst. At last Grace church; with Its clean light stone, is reached and the green grass and shrubbery in front of the interesting-looking Gothic rectory. A short distance be low the bend all the stores were whole sale; now they are becoming solidly re tall. Instead of buyers, the people along the street are mostly shoppers. Down there were very few women; up here are very few men. This Is especially noticeable when Union square Is reached, with cable cars clang ing around Dead Man's curve, In front of La Fayette's statue. Here, down Four teenth street, may be seen shops and shoppers of the most virulent type; win dows which draw women's heads around whether they want to look or not, caus ing them to run you down and making them deaf to your apologies for It. Big dry goods stores and small millinery shops; general stores and department stores, and the places where the side walks are crowded with what Is known to the trade as "Louis Fourteenth Street furniture." All this accounts for there being more restaurants now and different smells and another feeling in the air. Scrlbner's Magazine. National Lnncheons. National luncheons are the latest thing in the feminine world. The scheme of the lunch party Is to tako a certain country as the dominant note and represent it in table decorations, room trimmings, cos tumes of the maids and the dishes. At a pretty Italian luncheon the other day, the mala wore the national peasant cos tume, the table had crossed ribbons of the tricolor, and among the dishes were spa ghetti, stuffed, olives, Italian wines, Ital ian bread, fish, desserts and entrees, all as If taken from an Italian table. Russia, . China, Norway, England and other European countries afford lots of opportunities for these national affairs. The flags are easily obtainable, and with a good cook, a good cookbook and an eye open for the delicacies of the shops and stores, a bright hostess may make a luncheon of this character very atti ac tive. And He Went. Sir Redvers Buller Is not a person who will allow any ordinary considerations to swerve him from what he thinks Is his duty. It is 'told of him that at a dinner in his house not long ago a certain well known person was present, and told an anecdote which was so "off color" that the ladies were excessively distressed. When dinner was over Sir Redvers rang thet--bell. "Mr. A 's carriage," he or dered, when the butler appeared. "I do not expect my brougham so early," said Mr. A , and there was a gleam of de fiance In his eyes. Sir Redvers did not re ply, but he took Mr. A by the arm and led him gently into the hall. "It Is time for you to go," he said quietly, and his guest went. And So Is Her Pnrse. Her ejes arc so tender, And her language is terse; Her waist Is quite slender But, alas! so'B her purse. Chicago Ne'ws. Sons; of a Button. (By the Mere Man.) "With Angers awkward and big: (Long: past the hour for bed) A mere man handles a needle keen "Wnlch It's taken him hours to thread "Work I Work! Work! For Work he Is truly a glutton. 'Tis bis first attempt yet he doca not BOlrlfr He to trying- to sew on a button! With fingers weary and worn (The dawn Is rising red), A mere man, tolls In a piteous way. Still plying- hl3 needle and thread Prick! PrlckJ Prick! And he murmurs (I think) "Tut! Tut!" on The needle lnvadlnff his flnseroaU's quick. As it come3 with a Jerk through the button! With fingers ragged and sore (The sun ahlna bright o'erhead), A mere man wearily puts away His troublesome needle and thread Stitch! Stitch! Stitch! He has struggled with eyes half shut on. But his spirits are yards above concert pitch By Jove, he has sewn on a button! Punch. THEREVOLTAGAINSTFATE Parkhnrst, Ne-tv York's Famous Pnl- piteer, Speaks Plainly Abont the Man-Woman of the Period. "There is quiet a respectable minority of women (respectable from a numerical standpoint, at any rate)," writes Rev. Dr. Parkhurst, the famous New York mu nicipal reformer, in the New York World, of recent date, "who seem, to regard it as a mistake on tho Lord's part that they have been limited to such narrow vocations as taking care of the home, raising chil dren and initiating those children in the first principles of life, learning and con duct. It Is one of the features of the day the number of women who are In revolt against the destiny to which they are mor ally, mentally and ph Biologically ordained. They are trying to do two things from which they are by the very constitution of nature prohibited. First, they are try ing to cease to be women, and second, they are attempting to be men. "The consequence Is what might have been anticipated. They fall of being ex actly anything are just enough of both to miss being very much of either. I do not believe that, relatively speaking, the num ber of these hermaphroditic experimenters is large, but the minority doe3 not need to be numerous, in order to be much In evidence. "It is good Scripture and good civiliza tion that woman is intended to be man's helpmeet. It is an old-fashioned Idea, but it worked well so long as it obtained, and we shall not be willing to have It replaced by the 'new-woman,' fad until there Is evi dence that the innovation issues in a bet ter type of womanhood. "The hope of the world 13 the family, and the hope of the family Is first of all In the distinct and exclusive womanliness of the mother. If wnmen want to con tinue to retain the natural admiration of the other sex they will have to do It by taking care to be women and nothing but women. Also, if they wish to preserve the distinctive quality and inexpressible deli cacy of their sex, they will have to do It by broadening, not by contracting, the dis tance that divides their sex from, the other. "I venture to say that, thanks to the noisy demonstrativeness of the minority above mentioned, woman has, during the past 30 years, become a cheaper thing in man's esteem; and it is as much due to that fact as to any increasing baseness in masculine character that among people, In higher as well as In lower social condl tlonfl, the relations between the sexes are acquiring so much of Indelicacy, vulgarity and even of turpitude." KNIT ALL THEIR LIVES. Women of the Shetland Isles and Their UnflaerETincr Labor. All the women of Shetland knit. They learn the art In early childhood, and con tinue It all through their lives. The wool used for their knitting Is grown on the Islands, and Is carded and spun by the people themselves. Machinery they have not, except the primitive spinning wheel. Many of the most elaborate shawls have taken months to make, and some even years, so that a very fine shawl may be worth as much as $150 to $200. Most of the knitting is, however, of the more homely and serviceable kind, and may be bought from the women themselves for a mod erate price. The manner in which the washing of knit shawls 19 accomplished In Shetland is a matter of interest to most visitors. They are washed carefully in soap lather, and then to prevent their shrinking, they are laced from point to point of the scal loped border In a large square wooden frame, and placed outside the cottage to dry. SHREWD YANKEE DAME. Gets a Life Pass and Lives on Ship hoard Till Death. One of the islands In Panama bay used to belong to an enterprising old lady from Connecticut the widow of a sea captain and she lived all alone there In a little cabin for several years after her husband d'ed. In the course of time that is, about 10 years ago the Pacific Steam Naviga- tion Company desired that particular isl and for warehouses and repair shops, and when it came to make the the purchase, the ancient Yankee dame drove a very hard bargain. She made it a condition of the sale that .the company should give her a life pass upon U& steamers between Panama and Valparaiso for herself and a maid, to be used at her pleasure. This was done with out misgivings. As soon as she had con veyed the title to the property, and had received a card signed by the president and general manager, grantinff her pas- The Clinging-, Curving: Princess. eage at all times on their line, she calm ly moved aboard their best steamer, se lected a stateroom and cruised up and down the coast for several months. When she got tired of one steamer she wou.d try another, and waa not contented with getting her living free of cost, but at tempted actually to make a. profit out of the arrangement. The old lady had never enjoyed the lux ury of a maid to her life, before she en tered into this contract with, the steam ship company, but on several occasions brought a woman aboard whom she intro duced a3 such, and she demanded that the woman be allowed free passage. The company's officers discovered that she waa collecting fare from these women that is, scalping her pass and declined to carry any more of them. The old lady mada a terrible fuss about It, and threatened to sue the company for violating its agree ment, but a lawyer she consulted advised her not to prosecute the case, and she reluctantly abandoned it. She continued to live aboard the Pacific steamers until ber death, a few years ago. FIGHTING BOER WOMEN. Taught From Girlhood the Use ol Firearms, and Are Combative. Mra. Louise de Lassomm, of San Fran cisco, returned from a tour of South. Afri ca a short while ago, and relates soma Interesting impressions of the Boera "The Boers impressed me as being & very uncouth sort of people," she says, "although those that we met were pleas ant enough. It Is easy to see that they are required to pay little attention to the courtesies of life while young, for their manners are devoid of polish, and they frequently have a surly air, which does not by any means create a favorable im pression upon strangers. But of their fighting qualities there can bo no ques tion, and England need not expect to subdue them until their last shot has been fired and their last ounce of strength Is exhausted. There Is no more determined and stubborn race of people on earth than the Boers. "The children, both boys and girls, are taught the use of firearms as soon aa they are old enough to hold a gun. They practice constantly. From one genera tion to another the Boers have been pre paring for war, until to fight is now their natural instinct. The women are as courageous and as combative as the men. A Boer woman is never too old to shoot straight. You should see them as I have seen them, coming to the station to say good-by to husbands, fathers, brothers and sweethearts on their way to tho front. Such stoicism as they display is astonishing." HOME-MLVDH SCRAPBOOKS. Just the Thing: for Children, and Easily Gotten Up. A woman who believes that there should be no waste products In the home has dis covered that old window shades are ad mirable for making scrapbooks for chil dren. The material is practically inde structible; the surface holds flour paste without spreading, and the neutral tones make a satisfactory background for bright colored pictures, or for the black and white of illustrations from magazines. No covers are necessary, as the cloth is so heavy, and if cut with a sharp knife, it will need no finish. Small books of this kind are the most satisfactory. Cut six or eight pieces for the leaves and stltoh them through tn middle on the sewing machine, knotting the thread securely at each end. Gay cal endars, advertising cards, sketches and animals, etc., may be arranged according to taste and material. When finished, the book should be placed under a heavy weight, with thick papers between the leaves to provide against possible mois ture. Another scheme for scrapbooks, if old curtains are not available, is along patri otic lines. A yard each of red, white and blue cambric, which costs only a few cents "a yard, will form the foundation, for two good-sized books of six leaves each. As cambric has less body to It than win dow shades, it Is well to allow two thick nesses for each page. Place them care fully along the edge3 and snip them with sharp scissors. A Twentieth Centnry Drama. The woman she sat In her dusty den. Her papers all scattered about. While she toilsomely sought. With pipe and pen. To straighten her business out. When a sudden cry Of agony From her husband smote her earr "Help! Help! Be quick! Oh. It makes me sick! I shall die If you don't come here!" The woman she strode across the floor. An anxious frown on her brow, And she tenderly said, as she opened the door, "What troubles my Poppet now?" For perched on a chair High up in air That frantic man she found. And he gave a shriek At every squeak Of the mouse that ptajed around, "Just look!" he sobbed, with his coat held high, As he poised on the tip of hla toe; "What a eavage Jerk of his tail! Oh, myl It -win run up my clothes, I know! How Its eyeballs glare! And Its mouthsee, there! Oh, It's going to lump! Be quick!" Thus the mart walled on Till the mouse was gone. Scared off by the woman's stick. The woman she smiled at nls pretty fears In a fond, superior way. While he strove to check the bursting- teaz As he breathlessly watched the fray. Then the man to the floor Sne helped once more. And lovingly kissed and caressedL Her strong- arm she wound His frail form, around,, N And ho wept out -his fright on her breast! Harlem Ufa, "Just Like Mamma's Clnh." Mrs. Ada Brown Talbot, of New York, editor of the Clubwoman, says that the most extraordinary club she ever ran across Is conducted by a demure and dig nified little woman of 7, the daughter of a club president. The editor called one das and was received by her little friend with open arms. "At last I've got a chair," she said. "I am glad, my dear,' said the editor "I hope It is comfortable and pretty." "Oh, it Is not for me. it Is for my club." "I didn't know you had a club." "Of course I have just like mamma. Mj dolly is president, and I got the choir fo her. You see," she explained In a whis per. "there's only dollies in It, and the dolly that makes the most noise Is presi dent, just like mamma's club. That's mj dolly. She talks when you push her back I broked the spring, and now she talks til she Is runned down. So she's president Don't you think that's nice?" And Mrs. Talbot said she did Chimes Rung by a Woman. The chimes of beautiful Grace churci in Broadway, New York, are rung by 1 young woman. The chimes of Grao church are famous. When one hears t3 "bells quarreling- in the clouds" above tl din of Broadway, he may Imagine an, ot sexton of the old-fashioned type pullh? away at the bell ropes- Nothing of ti kind Is the reality. It Is the assistant organist of the chur-i, Miss Bertha- Thomas, who Is Tinging te chimes. She la calmly manipulating a keyboard like that of an organ, with, o more labor than would be required r playing an actual organ. But at evy pressure of her delicate flngera a ent bell, weiehinir tons, far up In the tovr, responds, and the music of some sacd. chant rings out In a orazen ciasa clang that can bo heard for milea A