20
THE SUNDAY. X)REGOIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 21, 1900.
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TJp-to-Date Genius.
Write on, O Genius! Bid your pen
Still scurry o'er the page,
Jor doubt the time Is coming- when
Tou'll he the reigning rage.
Tour diction, -with Its potent touch.
On shelves shall be displaced.
In "various stores you'll learn how much,
A thought Is worth In trade.
And you shall hear the loud applauso
Which critics cannot hush,
And feel that It Is you who cause
A bargain-counter rush.
Washington Star.
STRIFE AMONG MODISTES
Resultant Limitless Styles of Mid
winter Garments for SufTerlus
Wontanlcind's Selection.
NEW YORK, Jan. IS. "What could be
more ridiculous than the spasms of jealous
rivalry among Parisian modistes. "My
house," says one, "shall be characterized
by this one original and exclusive style,
and every gown that Tve make shall be
known, by this peculiar shape the shapt
of the year."
"Costumes that come from our salon,"
says another, "are unmistakable. They
are all plaited or tucked. Plaiting is the
mot ol elegance,- and -we have made it so."
"Every one recognizes," says a third, "the
tight, clinging sheath-like effect of the
gowns we turn out; no bungling, no plait
ing, no tucking. All that sort of thing
is well enough for women who are obliged
to cover up the defects on ugly figures, or
for the modiste to disguise poor cutting.
For our part, we are both clever and ar
tistic enough to see to It that each of our
patrons shall leave our hands with a fis
ure that is incomparably perfect. "We
know how to assuage the offended dames
whom nature has treated shabbily."
Dresses are to be full, scant, ruffled,
flattened, plain, elaborate, lined, unllned,
clearing the ground, trailing, comes the
babelish chorus from across the sea, and,
'like the wise judge in the fable, we, In
this country, avail ourselves of the dispute
and enjoy the best products of all, regarc
less of the enmity between the designers,
and, in fact, more often than not, ignorani
of the very existence of the poor artist
who has thrown his best efforts Into thu
creation of a new style.
In view of this tournament of needles
and shears, it is small wonder that women
are reveling in a greater variety of clothea
than has ever heretofore been put forth
in one season. No feminine type is for
gotten. Any woman can be suited now
adays, no matter what description she may
answer to; no one but the designer re
mains faithful to a particular mode. Two
things that are most strongly distinctive
of the year, and that will undoubtedly
retain their favor a year hence, are fur
trimmings, used upon promenade gowns,
and the use of panne.
Fur Yokes the Latest. '
Fur yokes, extending down over the
shoulders, are the very latest innovation.
"Ugh!" some one says, "how insufferably
hot!" Of course they are hot. But what
could be more desirable for winter. Then
they are not supposed to be worn under
cloaks, but constitute dress and wrap In
one, and are planned solely for visiting
and promenade. The rest of the bodlc
Is usually heavily interlined, to obviate
the necessity of a wrap. Boleros of
broadtail are also emphatically the rage.
One of the most delightful afternoon
gowns has a skirt of black velvet. "With
it Is worn a very short broadtail bolero,
lapped over and fastened down the front.
All of the edges of the bolero are incrusted
with upturned points of ecru lace, re-embroidered
with black chenille. A high,
rolling collar of the broadtail is cut out
squarely under the chin, to disclose a bow
of wnite mousseline de sole. Below this,
slightly to one side, the fastening is ef
fected with brandebourgs of black che
nille, with floating ends of chenille falling
from them. Beneath the short bolero
may be seen a wide corselet of white taf
feta, tightly swathed in little folds around
the waist. Black satin, instead of white
taffeta, would make the waist seem small
er. At the lower edge of the corslet, which
is pointed down in front, is a flat, inch
wide band of black velvet, embroidered
with turquoise cabuchons, surrounded by
tiny cut gilt beads, the margins of the
band being covered with small turquoise
naiiheads.
Never before in the history of dress
has fur been utilized unequivocally as a
dress fabric. Very often gowns, instead
of being made of cloth and trimmed witn
fur, have the recognized order of things
reversed by being made of fur and trimmed
with cloth. An illustration of the new
-vogue is shown on this page. The gown
in question Is fit for a young queen, so
rich Is the material, and so exquisite the
style. The upper part of the skirt and
the lower part of the bodice are of satin,
finished with white cloth, laid In bias folda
over a smooth-fitting silk foundation. In
crustations of wide, ivory-colored entre
deux ornament the cloth and lorm the
V-shaped girdle and high collar. All of
the rest of the ccstume is In royal ermine,
a bow of deep violet panne at one side of
the bust being the only touch of color.
No one but a Frenchman could have been
capableof an Idea so extravagant In ev
ery way. The number of skins required
for such a dress make It cost something
fabuloua. It would hardly be practicable
for wear In a smoky city; every one knows
the aversion the poor little ermines have
to being defiled.
But It Can Be Hade Cheaper.
The costume, however, which is not the
least attractive amonc those that have
been lately planned, can be admirably car
ried out In less extraordinary materials.
The yoke may be of fur, ermine, if so de
sired, or chinchilla. Lustreless black cloth
can be substituted for the white, and it
may be stitched In small raised tucks 'n
stead of laid In bias folds. The lace should
be ecru rather than Ivory-colored, and may
be whipped up with black chenille, and the
whole thing may be given an advance note
of fashion by having the remainder of the
skirt and the sleeves in black panne, that
delicious velvet that is as light as silk and
as lustrous as satin. The close, standing
collar should be of fur to match the yoke,
sloped out comfortably under the chin and
curved up in points at the eide.
In the same sketch with the ermine
gown Is a ravishing toilet, made almost
entirely of broadtail. It is the only fur
that can he affected by stout women, with
out fear of Increasing their apparent size,
and it Is so soft and pliable that It can be
molded into any shape. The short bolero
which Is fastened all the way down and
the long, tight sleeves are of fur. At
the lower edge the bolero Is cut In points,
the point directly in front reaching almost
to the waist-line. Beneath the bolero is a
wide shepherdess girdle of prune-colored
panne. The skirt Is of prune-colored
panne, and is bordered with a band of
dark mink or sable. Over It Is worn a tunic
of broadtail, made skin-tight about the
hips and falling in very long, sharp points
from below the hips. The points are Irreg
ular in outline and are bordered with che
nille. At the neck Is a military collar of
broadtail that Is surmounted by a tongue
shaped collar of -the same fur, faced with
prune-colored panne. A bow of pale prune
colored mousseline de sole Is tied under
the chin. The muff matches the fur band
at the bottom of the skirt, and, unneces
sary as it may seem, a mink or sable scarf
Is supposed to accompany the 6uit, to
harmonize with the muff.
Not only are two kinds of fur used upon
one gown, but velvets of different colors
are used as well. To one who has not
seen this combination of four heavy stuffs
the description certainly suggests some
thing horribly clumsy. Yet when they
are actually made up by an adroit mod
iste, the effect, far from being clumsy. Is
svelt. and incomparably rich. It goes
without saying that the lines are kept
very simple, and that there is little possi
bility of draping or folding. Only the
best quality of materials can be used, and
the colors must be most judiciously
chosen.
Robe of Blaclc Velvet.
The best specimen of this style that has
been imported so far Js a robe of black
-velvet, with a wide corselet and a circular
ruffle at the bottom of the skirt, in sapphire-blue
velvet, elaborately embroid
ered with jet spangles and chenille. The
corselet -is very narrow at the sides and
back, but wide in front and shaped into
CaV
TWO PARISIAN
a point at the top and at the bottom. On
the upper part of the bodice is a yoke of
silvery chinchilla, cut off round behind
and sloped down Into a point in front
to .meet the upturned point of the girdle.
A standing collar, having ears at the
sides, is of fur, made in one piece with
the yoke. The entire upper edge of the
girdle Is bcund with a chinchilla band
that seems' to be f continuation of the '
pSaTTt . IMP -v - ' "
yoke, crossed and running around the
body. N
The sheath-like black velvet skirt is
notched up in front and behind in a blunt
Inverted V, and to this shaped edge the
sapphire-blue, circular ruffle Is annexed.
At each, side of the "skirt, several Inches
above the heading of blue flounce, a large
piece of chinchilla, the shape of an eighth
of an orange, is set into the black vel
vet horizontally. The fur pieces are so
large that their tips just escape meeting
at the front and back. The points on
the skirt are joined, as it were, by two
huge, oval sapphire buckles, with heavy
rims of pearl. A smaller buckle graces
the point of the yoke on the bodice.' A
large abbe-shaped hat of black felt that
goes with the gown has no other trim
ming than two waving black ostrich
plumes.
It is the fashion now to have double
storm collars, not merely faced, but real
ly two collars. The inner one is of velvet
or of satin, the outer one being presum
ably of fur. The inner collars are just a
shade snialler than" the outer- ones, and
are beautifully embroidered. They are
made detachable and' are adjusted to the
Inside of the -coat collar by means of tiny
hooks and eyes, the hooks being sewn
to the lower edge of the velvet, and the
silk eyelets worked Into the coat lining.
This little fad affords a welcome relief
from the annoyance of having the fur
rub whatever dust it catches against the
face, besides which it can be made ex
tremely decorative. A sealskin coat may
have an Inner collar of white satin em
broidered in gold, varied for more ordi
nary wear by a collar of rich cerise panne.
As so little of the color is seen, the
brightest hues may be used sapphire,
emerald or scarlet.
Embroidery Is becoming more and more
complicated, as It is growing more and
more in 'popularity. The most absurd
lengths are gone to, in order to obtain
some surprising resultf The latest bit of
nonsense is a praze for twine embroidery.
Ordinary druggists wrapping cord Is
used, and we are assured with delight
that when It is worked up no one would
ever suspect Its humble origin. The two
ply red and white, or blue and white
cord, give the most artistic results, re
sembling in a way certain Arabic em-i
broidery. Regardless of the medium, em
broidery of all sorts is strongly in vogue,
and if anything extraordinary can be ob
tained out of the most Impossible threads,
the success of the embroidered article Is
augmented tenfold.
Triumph of Needlework.
A very triumph of needlework is a
bolero of black cloth, made quite small
and short over three assimilated boleros
that are allowed to show well beneath it.
Each one of the "shams" is embroidered
in a different design, made of a different
material and In a different color. The
one directly below the black body is in
white cloth, the second Is In green velvet
and the third is in old-rose satin. All are
semi-concealed under a brilliant Egyptian
embroidered in every conceivable tint.
Boleros were never more admired than
they are now. They range In shape and
size from the tiny Empire, with the waist
line way up under the arms, to the full
length, tight-fitting ones, extending In a
point or scallop, below the belt In front.
Nothing could be prettier than one of
these dainty boleros In renaissance lace,
which any one who knows how to handle
a needle can learn now to make in a
couple of lessons. The lace boleros are
caught together with rose-shaped rosettes
of colored panne and worn with panne
stocks to match the rosettes. For a foun
dation, a white satin blouse Is particu
larly lovely, especially If the lace Is In
deep cream or ecru. Sometimes a wide
girdle of panne, matching the stock and
rosettes, is worn with the lace bolero
Aid the whole thing Is donned over a
sharply contrasting silk bodice.
Plaits stitched at the edges so that they
flatten to the figure are much in evidence.
They were first seen in partially plaited
skirts, but 'now give character to whole
costumes. A remarkably chic visiting
gown Is made In, the form of a clinging,
curving princess In two parts. The skirt
of silver-gray panne extends up above
the waist line quite to the bust. It , Is
notched down in a sharp open V at the
center of the front and two shallower Vs
at the sides of the bust. The whole
bodice, which Is smooth-fitting as a jer-
COSTUMES.
sey, is of cream lace, embroidered with
geraniums of scarlet velvet, and scarlet
chenille is threaded in and out among the
meshes of the lace.
Inserted In the deep center V of the
skirt Is an open vest of geranium velvet,
ornamented with jeweled buttons. At the
sides, the "skirt of gray panne reaches up
to the armpits, and it is fitted by over-
lapped plaits, that are stitched down as
far a3 the knees. The upper part of the
sleeyfr is, made In .one 'with the tight lace j
yokea"n(L frpntr The rest of the sleeve, '
from allne on a par with the bust to the
knucklesMs of gray panne, very smoothly
fitted. AH of the edges of the panne, at
the top and bottomrare piped with fur.
A fur muff an fur toque accompany the
own. The. latter ! folded in wrinkles,
and decked, at regular Intervals around
the crowr-with bunches of, scarlet velvet j
geraniumsc jiot evening wear noining nas
Jboen found to diminish the general partial
ityforithe sparkling paillettes.
J- r ,, , ANITA DE CAMPI.
,c-WHO'S THE WOMAN?"
Metamorphosis of a Recently Wed
ded Washington Widow's Portrait.
' "There Is a wealthy "Washington woman
who has recently married for the second
time," says the Washington Post. "Dur
ing the lifetime of her first husband she
was generally considered a rather plain
looking woman. Her complexion was a
trifle sallow, and her hair was of no par
ticular color at all. It was at this period
that the artist painted a miniature of her.
A few months later her, husband died.
"Inside of a year a good angel, in the
shape of a hairdresser, had suggested to
the widow the simple expedient of sham
pooing her dull tresses with ordinary laun
dry soap, which, as nearly every mahogany-haired
woman knows, never fails to I
bring out the most delightful of Titian t
tints. The widow went from red brown
hair to red gold hair, and Anally to a col-
THE WINTER GIRL.
By
or very nearly flaxen. She patronized
mysterious persons who gave her a roses-and-cream
complexion, and then, just
last summer, she bestowed her blonde and
beautiful self on a second husband. A
fortnight ago she came to the artist with
the miniature.
" T wish you'd touch this up a little for
me,' she said. 'I want it to be a splendid
likeness, for I'm going to have it reset
and give it to my husband as a Christmas
present. It used to look so much like me,
but It doesn't now. Don't you think
doesn't It seem to you that the color you
used on my hair there has faded or turned
dark, or something? Couldn't you' well
and a gleam of frankness came Into her
happy eyes 'won't you just simply blond
ine that miniature to match me? I don't
want my husband to know my hair ever
was any other color than It Is right now.
Won't you, please?'
"So the miniature has been duly and
properly and most beautifully blondlned
to match the lady."
CANES AGAIN IN FAVOR,
Popularity of Walking: Sticks Great
er Than for Years Past.
After having been sidetracked for sev
eral seasons, walking canes are once more
In evidence among men with any pre
hensions to being a la mode.
Nowadays the cane is regarded as al
most an Indispensable feature of gen
teel dress by both young and old, in all
.American centers of fashion. Some men
who would not think of carrying canes
on business days would feel 111 at ease
on Sunday minus the walking stick.
Large scale International events, accord
ing to the Philadelphia Inquirer, which
has been Investigating the matter, stim
ulate the popularity of canes. The cen
tennial exposition In 1876, and the Co
lumbian world's fair, at Chicago In 1S93,
boomed the use of walking sticks con--siderably.
The Paris exposition is prob
ably responsible for the present revival
of the cane fashion. Dealers' attribute the
Increase In business to the fact that a
large majority of men attending exhibi
tions invariably provide themselves with
canes. As a souvenir, the walking stick
is generally in great demand.
A cane much favored this- season Is
made of either penang or partridge wood.
These slender, rigid sticks promise to
supplant the popularity accorded bamboo
and whangee canes last spring. Penang
and partridge woods are of fine grain and
dark brown, and are highly polished.
Silver and gun metal trimmings are quite
effective. Inlaid work Is preferred to ap
plied ornamentation. Curved natural
handles are the mode for canes made
of penang, partridge and congo woods.
The English furze is a heavy cane, and
is, as a rule, expensive. Rhinoceros horn
and ivory handles show to good advantage
when banded with Inlaid silver. A, nov
elty furze cane has a handle resembling
the head of a golf 'stick, but made of
ebony and trimmed with gold, reproduc
ing in effect the brass-rimmed golf club.
Black and white thorns share popu
larity with the welchsel canes. Hickory
sticks are also winning some attention.
Light-colored, flexible canes are done for,
at least for a time. The vogue pronounces
it bad form to wear a cane showing the
natural bark. Blackthorns are an excep
tion, they being in favor only with the
bark on.
PEWTER IN FASHION.
All Sorts of Knlck-Knaelcs Beiiis
r Made of the Metal.
There is a passion for pewter just now,
says the Boston Herald; pewter made
IntQball the knick-knackery that we have
for the past few years been seeing In
silver. There Is about pewter a softness
and pliability which make it a fascinat
ing material with which to model, and,
therefore, besides its usefor small pieces,
artists ore working; out some of their
best designs in it. In fact, reduced fig
ures from life and after the antique are
being exhibited, along- with those of
bronze and plaster. Smaller pieces, hap
pily within reach of many, are bonbon
ieres, trays and ash receivers, mugs,
plates and small figures. All of these are
presented in innumerable shapes and de
signs. Collectors of mugs are being made hap
py by this revival of the use of pewter,
and little short of a madness is about
regarding the number and rarity of those
mugs seen at Informal evening parties or
at other times decorating the side walls
of dining-rooms. The plates also are
mostly seen as "wall decorations, and pro
duce a stunning effect when well hung
against a brilliant background.
It is not difficult to keep these pewter
ornaments clean. A good rubbing with
chamois every fortnight is all that Is nec
essary. It is not desirable for them to
have the shining luster of silver; the tone3
of pewter should be soft and gray.
WHISTLE-WEARING FAD.
Blade Into Dainty Ornaments for
Men and Women.
Whistles are being generally carried by
men and women these days, quite com
monly in the East. They serve various
useful purposes, and are usually dainty
articles of ornament. They are attached
to fine safety chains, similar to those
worn on eyeglasses, with a pin fasten
ing them to the coats of male wearers,
Malcolm A. Strauss la the New York HeraldV
the whistles themselves being dropped in
upper vest pockets. Women usually carry
them suspended from their belts.
The whistles are made of gold or gun
metal. The gold one3 are most attrac
tive when perfectly plain in design. Some
of them are quite unique In shape and
suggestive of tiny toboggans. Others are
most elaborate. One that was recently
seen and which had just come from Lon
don was of gun metal, in the old-fashioned,
orthodox shape. A large spider
was wrought upon it and the cylinder
part was encircled by its claws. In the
back of the spider was sunken a very
large emerald. Many whistles have to
pazes and amethysts Inserted In the top.
GOTHAM'S SHOPPING DISTRICT.
"Where Women STvnrm to Men's Dis
comfort and Disgrnst.
At last Grace church; with Its clean light
stone, is reached and the green grass and
shrubbery in front of the interesting-looking
Gothic rectory. A short distance be
low the bend all the stores were whole
sale; now they are becoming solidly re
tall. Instead of buyers, the people along
the street are mostly shoppers. Down
there were very few women; up here are
very few men.
This Is especially noticeable when Union
square Is reached, with cable cars clang
ing around Dead Man's curve, In front of
La Fayette's statue. Here, down Four
teenth street, may be seen shops and
shoppers of the most virulent type; win
dows which draw women's heads around
whether they want to look or not, caus
ing them to run you down and making
them deaf to your apologies for It. Big
dry goods stores and small millinery
shops; general stores and department
stores, and the places where the side
walks are crowded with what Is known to
the trade as "Louis Fourteenth Street
furniture." All this accounts for there
being more restaurants now and different
smells and another feeling in the air.
Scrlbner's Magazine.
National Lnncheons.
National luncheons are the latest thing
in the feminine world. The scheme of the
lunch party Is to tako a certain country
as the dominant note and represent it in
table decorations, room trimmings, cos
tumes of the maids and the dishes. At a
pretty Italian luncheon the other day,
the mala wore the national peasant cos
tume, the table had crossed ribbons of the
tricolor, and among the dishes were spa
ghetti, stuffed, olives, Italian wines, Ital
ian bread, fish, desserts and entrees, all
as If taken from an Italian table.
Russia, . China, Norway, England and
other European countries afford lots of
opportunities for these national affairs.
The flags are easily obtainable, and with
a good cook, a good cookbook and an
eye open for the delicacies of the shops
and stores, a bright hostess may make a
luncheon of this character very atti ac
tive. And He Went.
Sir Redvers Buller Is not a person who
will allow any ordinary considerations to
swerve him from what he thinks Is his
duty. It is 'told of him that at a dinner
in his house not long ago a certain well
known person was present, and told an
anecdote which was so "off color" that
the ladies were excessively distressed.
When dinner was over Sir Redvers rang
thet--bell. "Mr. A 's carriage," he or
dered, when the butler appeared. "I do
not expect my brougham so early," said
Mr. A , and there was a gleam of de
fiance In his eyes. Sir Redvers did not re
ply, but he took Mr. A by the arm and
led him gently into the hall. "It Is time
for you to go," he said quietly, and his
guest went.
And So Is Her Pnrse.
Her ejes arc so tender,
And her language is terse;
Her waist Is quite slender
But, alas! so'B her purse.
Chicago Ne'ws.
Sons; of a Button.
(By the Mere Man.)
"With Angers awkward and big:
(Long: past the hour for bed)
A mere man handles a needle keen
"Wnlch It's taken him hours to thread
"Work I Work! Work!
For Work he Is truly a glutton.
'Tis bis first attempt yet he doca not BOlrlfr
He to trying- to sew on a button!
With fingers weary and worn
(The dawn Is rising red),
A mere man, tolls In a piteous way.
Still plying- hl3 needle and thread
Prick! PrlckJ Prick!
And he murmurs (I think) "Tut! Tut!" on
The needle lnvadlnff his flnseroaU's quick.
As it come3 with a Jerk through the button!
With fingers ragged and sore
(The sun ahlna bright o'erhead),
A mere man wearily puts away
His troublesome needle and thread
Stitch! Stitch! Stitch!
He has struggled with eyes half shut on.
But his spirits are yards above concert pitch
By Jove, he has sewn on a button!
Punch.
THEREVOLTAGAINSTFATE
Parkhnrst, Ne-tv York's Famous Pnl-
piteer, Speaks Plainly Abont the
Man-Woman of the Period.
"There is quiet a respectable minority
of women (respectable from a numerical
standpoint, at any rate)," writes Rev. Dr.
Parkhurst, the famous New York mu
nicipal reformer, in the New York World,
of recent date, "who seem, to regard it as
a mistake on tho Lord's part that they
have been limited to such narrow vocations
as taking care of the home, raising chil
dren and initiating those children in the
first principles of life, learning and con
duct. It Is one of the features of the day
the number of women who are In revolt
against the destiny to which they are mor
ally, mentally and ph Biologically ordained.
They are trying to do two things from
which they are by the very constitution
of nature prohibited. First, they are try
ing to cease to be women, and second,
they are attempting to be men.
"The consequence Is what might have
been anticipated. They fall of being ex
actly anything are just enough of both to
miss being very much of either. I do not
believe that, relatively speaking, the num
ber of these hermaphroditic experimenters
is large, but the minority doe3 not need
to be numerous, in order to be much In
evidence.
"It is good Scripture and good civiliza
tion that woman is intended to be man's
helpmeet. It is an old-fashioned Idea, but
it worked well so long as it obtained, and
we shall not be willing to have It replaced
by the 'new-woman,' fad until there Is evi
dence that the innovation issues in a bet
ter type of womanhood.
"The hope of the world 13 the family,
and the hope of the family Is first of all
In the distinct and exclusive womanliness
of the mother. If wnmen want to con
tinue to retain the natural admiration of
the other sex they will have to do It by
taking care to be women and nothing but
women. Also, if they wish to preserve the
distinctive quality and inexpressible deli
cacy of their sex, they will have to do It
by broadening, not by contracting, the dis
tance that divides their sex from, the other.
"I venture to say that, thanks to the
noisy demonstrativeness of the minority
above mentioned, woman has, during the
past 30 years, become a cheaper thing in
man's esteem; and it is as much due to
that fact as to any increasing baseness
in masculine character that among people,
In higher as well as In lower social condl
tlonfl, the relations between the sexes are
acquiring so much of Indelicacy, vulgarity
and even of turpitude."
KNIT ALL THEIR LIVES.
Women of the Shetland Isles
and
Their UnflaerETincr Labor.
All the women of Shetland knit. They
learn the art In early childhood, and con
tinue It all through their lives. The wool
used for their knitting Is grown on the
Islands, and Is carded and spun by the
people themselves. Machinery they have
not, except the primitive spinning wheel.
Many of the most elaborate shawls have
taken months to make, and some even
years, so that a very fine shawl may be
worth as much as $150 to $200. Most of the
knitting is, however, of the more homely
and serviceable kind, and may be bought
from the women themselves for a mod
erate price.
The manner in which the washing of
knit shawls 19 accomplished In Shetland
is a matter of interest to most visitors.
They are washed carefully in soap lather,
and then to prevent their shrinking, they
are laced from point to point of the scal
loped border In a large square wooden
frame, and placed outside the cottage to
dry.
SHREWD YANKEE DAME.
Gets a Life Pass and Lives on Ship
hoard Till Death.
One of the islands In Panama bay used
to belong to an enterprising old lady from
Connecticut the widow of a sea captain
and she lived all alone there In a little
cabin for several years after her husband
d'ed. In the course of time that is, about
10 years ago the Pacific Steam Naviga-
tion Company desired that particular isl
and for warehouses and repair shops, and
when it came to make the the purchase,
the ancient Yankee dame drove a very
hard bargain.
She made it a condition of the sale that
.the company should give her a life pass
upon U& steamers between Panama and
Valparaiso for herself and a maid, to be
used at her pleasure. This was done with
out misgivings. As soon as she had con
veyed the title to the property, and had
received a card signed by the president
and general manager, grantinff her pas-
The Clinging-, Curving: Princess.
eage at all times on their line, she calm
ly moved aboard their best steamer, se
lected a stateroom and cruised up and
down the coast for several months. When
she got tired of one steamer she wou.d
try another, and waa not contented with
getting her living free of cost, but at
tempted actually to make a. profit out of
the arrangement.
The old lady had never enjoyed the lux
ury of a maid to her life, before she en
tered into this contract with, the steam
ship company, but on several occasions
brought a woman aboard whom she intro
duced a3 such, and she demanded that
the woman be allowed free passage. The
company's officers discovered that she waa
collecting fare from these women that is,
scalping her pass and declined to carry
any more of them. The old lady mada
a terrible fuss about It, and threatened to
sue the company for violating its agree
ment, but a lawyer she consulted advised
her not to prosecute the case, and she
reluctantly abandoned it. She continued
to live aboard the Pacific steamers until
ber death, a few years ago.
FIGHTING BOER WOMEN.
Taught From Girlhood the Use ol
Firearms, and Are Combative.
Mra. Louise de Lassomm, of San Fran
cisco, returned from a tour of South. Afri
ca a short while ago, and relates soma
Interesting impressions of the Boera
"The Boers impressed me as being &
very uncouth sort of people," she says,
"although those that we met were pleas
ant enough. It Is easy to see that they
are required to pay little attention to the
courtesies of life while young, for their
manners are devoid of polish, and they
frequently have a surly air, which does
not by any means create a favorable im
pression upon strangers. But of their
fighting qualities there can bo no ques
tion, and England need not expect to
subdue them until their last shot has
been fired and their last ounce of
strength Is exhausted. There Is no more
determined and stubborn race of people
on earth than the Boers.
"The children, both boys and girls, are
taught the use of firearms as soon aa
they are old enough to hold a gun. They
practice constantly. From one genera
tion to another the Boers have been pre
paring for war, until to fight is now their
natural instinct. The women are as
courageous and as combative as the men.
A Boer woman is never too old to shoot
straight. You should see them as I have
seen them, coming to the station to say
good-by to husbands, fathers, brothers
and sweethearts on their way to tho
front. Such stoicism as they display is
astonishing."
HOME-MLVDH SCRAPBOOKS.
Just the Thing: for Children, and
Easily Gotten Up.
A woman who believes that there should
be no waste products In the home has dis
covered that old window shades are ad
mirable for making scrapbooks for chil
dren. The material is practically inde
structible; the surface holds flour paste
without spreading, and the neutral tones
make a satisfactory background for bright
colored pictures, or for the black and white
of illustrations from magazines. No covers
are necessary, as the cloth is so heavy,
and if cut with a sharp knife, it will need
no finish.
Small books of this kind are the most
satisfactory. Cut six or eight pieces for
the leaves and stltoh them through tn
middle on the sewing machine, knotting
the thread securely at each end. Gay cal
endars, advertising cards, sketches and
animals, etc., may be arranged according
to taste and material. When finished, the
book should be placed under a heavy
weight, with thick papers between the
leaves to provide against possible mois
ture. Another scheme for scrapbooks, if old
curtains are not available, is along patri
otic lines. A yard each of red, white and
blue cambric, which costs only a few
cents "a yard, will form the foundation, for
two good-sized books of six leaves each.
As cambric has less body to It than win
dow shades, it Is well to allow two thick
nesses for each page. Place them care
fully along the edge3 and snip them with
sharp scissors.
A Twentieth Centnry Drama.
The woman she sat In her dusty den.
Her papers all scattered about.
While she toilsomely sought. With pipe and pen.
To straighten her business out.
When a sudden cry
Of agony
From her husband smote her earr
"Help! Help! Be quick!
Oh. It makes me sick!
I shall die If you don't come here!"
The woman she strode across the floor.
An anxious frown on her brow,
And she tenderly said, as she opened the door,
"What troubles my Poppet now?"
For perched on a chair
High up in air
That frantic man she found.
And he gave a shriek
At every squeak
Of the mouse that ptajed around,
"Just look!" he sobbed, with his coat held high,
As he poised on the tip of hla toe;
"What a eavage Jerk of his tail! Oh, myl
It -win run up my clothes, I know!
How Its eyeballs glare!
And Its mouthsee, there!
Oh, It's going to lump! Be quick!"
Thus the mart walled on
Till the mouse was gone.
Scared off by the woman's stick.
The woman she smiled at nls pretty fears
In a fond, superior way.
While he strove to check the bursting- teaz
As he breathlessly watched the fray.
Then the man to the floor
Sne helped once more.
And lovingly kissed and caressedL
Her strong- arm she wound
His frail form, around,, N
And ho wept out -his fright on her breast!
Harlem Ufa,
"Just Like Mamma's Clnh."
Mrs. Ada Brown Talbot, of New York,
editor of the Clubwoman, says that the
most extraordinary club she ever ran
across Is conducted by a demure and dig
nified little woman of 7, the daughter of a
club president. The editor called one das
and was received by her little friend with
open arms.
"At last I've got a chair," she said.
"I am glad, my dear,' said the editor
"I hope It is comfortable and pretty."
"Oh, it Is not for me. it Is for my club."
"I didn't know you had a club."
"Of course I have just like mamma. Mj
dolly is president, and I got the choir fo
her. You see," she explained In a whis
per. "there's only dollies in It, and the
dolly that makes the most noise Is presi
dent, just like mamma's club. That's mj
dolly. She talks when you push her back
I broked the spring, and now she talks til
she Is runned down. So she's president
Don't you think that's nice?"
And Mrs. Talbot said she did
Chimes Rung by a Woman.
The chimes of beautiful Grace churci
in Broadway, New York, are rung by 1
young woman. The chimes of Grao
church are famous. When one hears t3
"bells quarreling- in the clouds" above tl
din of Broadway, he may Imagine an, ot
sexton of the old-fashioned type pullh?
away at the bell ropes- Nothing of ti
kind Is the reality.
It Is the assistant organist of the chur-i,
Miss Bertha- Thomas, who Is Tinging te
chimes. She la calmly manipulating a
keyboard like that of an organ, with, o
more labor than would be required r
playing an actual organ. But at evy
pressure of her delicate flngera a ent
bell, weiehinir tons, far up In the tovr,
responds, and the music of some sacd.
chant rings out In a orazen ciasa
clang that can bo heard for milea
A