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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 14, 1900)
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THE SUNDAY OEEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 14, 1900.
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She "Warn PiiBsins- T"al.
I was -nineteen, flhe went -eight,
"When 'first I saw he r lovely face.
Her fairy form of lissome graco.
I knew that I had met myfate
3Vhen, as I saw her golden hair.
Her carmine Up, hes cobalt eje,
I muttered, with a furnace sigh,
"Xe gods, but she is passing' fair!"
She twenty-eight and I mlneteent
I took to gloes and atcktles bright
T find more favor in her sight.
Of my affection ahe -was queen.
Alternate hope and dark despair
Would mount or rankle jln -my breast;
She spoiled a good deal of my rest
I eald that ehe as passing fair.
She twenty-eight, I twentyightl
I see the powder on her face;
Her form has angles more than grace.
"Her ej es are blue, bat not Quite straight.
1 really thought my love would last.
Bat fleeting years will love impair.
I thought that she was passirg fair
And so she v. as but now shes past.
PRECIOUS EXTRA BODICES
They Enable Women of Limited
.Means to Keep Up a Presentable
Appearance at All Tiniea.
Every woman who is wise in shopping
loi; Js looking out, Just a-t the present
season, for the annual sale of silk, satin
and velvet remnants sold at this partic
ular time for a mere wnnrr nnr? iicer? -fny
a year or more to come for the making j
ana remaking of those precious extra bod
ices that women, have learned to love and
to look upon as necessary luxuries of the
wardrobe, be it small or large. So little
expenditure is required nowadays to make
a waist that Is fresh and pretty, as well
as really modish, that almost any one
who watches the sales can buy scraps
enough to make up a supply of extras
that will do creditably for all occasions,
In llou of a variety of complete costumes.
The advantages of the odd waists are so
familiar to the majority of women that
they hardly need enumerating. They are
such a saving to" best dresses, and light
and dainty ones can so often be worn
when entire light silk dresses -would be
quite out of the question. With one good
skirt and a number of more or less elab
orate waists the average woman is pre
pared to accept invitations to all man
ner of eopial affairs, with the sole excep
tion of full-dress functions, which, of
course, invariably require full-dress
gowns. If one's means allow of but a
single formal evening costume, it should
assuredly be fashioned of black silk, with
the skirt and the waist made separate.
Black peau de sole is the most fashion
nWe as well as serviceable silk for the
purpose. The corsage should be decol
lete, with or without sleeves. Then if
a detachable yoke and sleeves of black
lace are supplied, the costume is convert
ible into a very elegant dinner gown.
In spite of the extravagant trimming
that is being used, It would be advisable
to have the skirt made simply, In long,
straight lines, sweeping out gracefully be
hind into a decided demltrain. It is al
ways well to secure a few yards of silk
extra, when buying a black silk dress,
as the skirt will in all probability stand
remodeling before it is worn out. If the
skint is made in an unostentatious way it
will escape the disagreeable comment of
being always the "same old thing." at the
many teas, card parties, luncheons, mati
nees and sociables of different sorts,
where it so frequently accompanies waists
that are gorgeous enough to atone for Its
simplicity. All that is required in addi
tion to the few articles just described
to complete a wardrobe that will more
than meet tho necessities of the aver
age woman Is one good, tailor-made
gown and a simple "house dress, to save
her bast clothes from becoming shabby,
a fate That overtakes them with llghtnlng
Ittte rabidity if they aro worn commonly
about the house.
Few Plain Waists.
"Very iew plain silk waists -are seen this
year. They are usually in combination
either with contrasting silk, with velvet,
eatin or lace, or panne, and indeed many
of them entail all of these fabrics, to
gether with embroidery tinsel of some
sort, passementerie and paillettes. Work
is not put upon them sparingly. They aro
tucked and strapped and lapped In bias
folds, and scalloped and braided and ap
pliqued, In a million intricate devices that
make them dreadful to contemplate, ex
cepting in their finished state. Fur and
buttons figure conspicuously in the scheme
of decoration, and moussellne do sole is
an almost Indispensable item.
It is true enough that only three yards
of silk are needed for an up-to-date bodice,
made as they are now, with scant fronts
and tight sleeves, but the economy in
material is lost sight of in the price of
labor, and, excepting to the girl or wom
an who is capable of making her own
extra bodices, the price is no whit di
minished. It is the deft needlewoman
alone who can profit by the prevailing
mode In waists. Under the magic of her
f skill, a- piece of silk, a scrap o lace, a
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bon are thrown together' into the most
- Heavy satin is very much in vogue in
place of taffeta. A blousor -nralst of willow-green
satin that Is showr.i in the first
model of a group on Ihls page is adorned
with stitched bands and folds of tho
same. It is cut low-neckttl, front and
back, over a yoke of heavy white art
lace, lined with cream sailni The edges
of the neck 'Slope, and tho opening near
the front Is finished with a stitched,
scalloped Dana of satin. Similarly stitched
but unscalloped bands are applied to
the body of the, waist, in angles, as indi
cated in the design. Three groups of
fancy buttons, with four in each group,
ornament the front of the walsu. The col
lar of white lace over cream, satin,
mounts high under the ears, and is fin
ished at the edge with a cordfed piping
of cream satin. Tho sleeve has SL smooth
fitting silk foundation, which is covered
with overlapping bias folds of satin, bent
in heart-shaped points at the middle of
each fold. The narrow belt Is simply a
stitched band f green satin, to msitch the
strappings on the waist.
One of the loveliest theater wsdsts of
the season in made of white silk, mottled
with splashes of rose-pink satin. Asi ap
plique of lace, drawn over this delightful
ground, gives it an Indescribable delicacy.
The front 5s open and, turning back from
it, are two long, narrow revers, notched
near the trap and extending straight diown
from the neck to the waist Tho revers
are flatly covered with lace and piped with
fur. Cubskin makes an effective and in
expensive piping, having as good a depth
of coloring as sable or seal.
Straight, Higrh Collar. x
The collar is straight and high at the
sides. It is edged and encircled with a
piping of the same fur, after having first
been covered smoothly with lace. A piece
of lace is appliqued to the height of the
corsage, in pointed-yoke shape. At tho
front of the collar is an immense rosette
sf xose-colored panne and. below this, a
cascade of lace ripples between the rev
ers. The belt is of rose-colored panne,
folded Into tucks, and the sleeves, of
mottled silk, have the lower portion cov
ered with half-sleeves of lace, notched In
a sharp V, at the top. At the wrist is a
narrow bracelet of panne, below which
a tab of lace and silk rounds down over
the knuckles. The tab is finished with
a piping of fur, set on with a panne cord;
it is faced with panne. A bodice of this
description may be worn equally well
with a light-colored, smooth-faced cloth
skirt, or with the regulation black silk.
The making over of last year's waists
is a comparatively simple matter. The
fullness has to bo taken out of the front
and the sleeves made narrower. This
leaves a plain foundation, to which the
most Inexperienced seamstress could add
the desired trimming. Several old waists
can be cut out at the neck and worn over
a single guimpe. Tho latter must, of
course, change the stamp of the year by
having a smooth collar, shaped correctly
high at the sides.
An easy way to trim an ordinary bod
ice, with or without a yoke, is to take
a long strip of satin, closely tucked, with
the tucks running tho length of the strip.
Pucker tho strip slightly at one end and
catch it into the armhole of the bodice.
Then draw tho band straight across, above
the bust; catch it down at the hollow of
the other arm, and twist and loop it into
a tremendous rosette. The strip should
be tucked only on the part that crosses
the bodice, tho rosette being left untucked
for tho sake of greater fullness. Liberty
satin adapts itself beautifully to this
mode of trimming; a laco jabot, falling
from under the rosette, gives a nice fin
ish Snug and comfortable afternoon wait3
are made of velvet and gaily trimmed. The
color that leads in popularity Is green.
All shades are used, dull tones If the shade
is light, and clear, rlcn ones if dark.
Malachite Is a favorite dark tint. The
fourth bodice in the illustration is a dvn-i
malachite-green velvet, cut low-necked a.d
open in front, over a guimpe and ves' of
white velvet dotted with large gray ches
The vest, in turn, is split open over a
white satin front that is cpvered with a
cascade of white lace. - At each open edge
of the vest is a row of crystal buttons,
each button being supplied with a loop of
gold gimp. The loops may either he
crossed and caught over the opposite but;
ton or left open, and glittering gilt beads
may, if desired, take the place of the
chenille dots. j. str,ap of green velvet,
stiched with row after row of white silk
thread, edges the neck slope, and sim
ilar straps are laid in upturned points on
the sleeves. The belt epaulettes and wr.st
pieces are repetitions of the stitched strap
ping. At the neck is a military coliar,
surmounted by a turned-down collar of
white velvet, striped with several rows of
gilt gimp, the gimp being twisted in loops
at the corners of the collar. The cas
cade of lace begins at the very top of
the collar, directly under 'the chin.
Satin, panne and brocade waists are re
served for semi-dress affairs for little din
ners, theaters and soires.'A charming din
ner bodice is-in silvery crepe de chine. It Js
squarely decollete, crossed over in front
and fastened toward one side. .All of the
edges of the decollete are notched in leaf
shaped scallops. The scallops are piped
with parchment-colored satin, sot on with
a fine untwisted gold cord. Satin leaves,
appliqued inside of tne scallops, aro
stitched down with gold-thread veins and
edged with gold cord. The crepe de chino
sleeves are mousquetalre over a tight
foundation and trimmed down the outside,
with a straight, narrow hand of parch
ment satin, finely embroidered with flow
ers in gold threads. A standing collar, of
appliqued crepe de chine, encircles the
neck. It is finished off at the lower edge
with leaf-shaped scallops, piped with sat
in and, at the upper edges, with a full
frill of chantllly lace.
The decollete la filled In with a smooth
fitting, unllned yoke of white chantllly
lace, re-embroldered with a delicate tracery
of gold thread. The cuffs, which are an
nexed to the bottom of the sleeves and
turn down In bell shape over the hand,
are made to match the collar, with ap
plique, scallops, plp'ug and frill of chan
tllly. The girdle is of gray crepe de chine.
The bodice Is supplied with a tight-fitting
lining. The back is made in one piece and
puckered down into the belt. The decol
lete is round, instead of being square, over
the lace yoke. Does the whole thing not
suggest a quaint, grandmotherly style?
It would hardly seem complete without a
SOMB OF THE
,carved Ivory fan and the faint scent of vio
lets and sandal-wood.
Satin Theater Bodice.
The remaining Illustration shows a the
ater bodice in Parma violet satin. It Is
decollete. In a deep oval over a smooth
yoke of white satin, evenly encircled with
black velvet bands. The collar, which is
attached to the yoke, is similarly erna
mVnted with undulating lines of black vel
vet. Below the decollete is a flat bertha
of black velvet, exquisitely embroidered
with violet silk floss. Directly in front
the' slightly bloused bodice is laid in a
smrfll triple box-plait, ornamented with
tiny gold buttons. At either side of the
plaiting is a panel of rich lace, laid on a
foundation of satin and bordered with a
band ,of black velvet. A very happy touch
Is grwen to the front, by having a row of
black velvet tabs, slanting downward
across (ach 'of the lace panels and bright
ened by a gilt button at the point of each
tab. The tight satin sleeves are annexed
to shoulder-puffs of plaited satin. They
are shaped in a point at the top and
trimmed: with a single narrow band of
black velvet. White satin cuffs, barred
with black velvet, are added to the wrists.
The belt is a round band of white satin
and black velvet.
A couple of plain flannel shirt waists, to
wear under the tailored waist, are quite
indispensable to my lady's collection of
bodices. And, indeed, if she cannot afford
an assortment of bodices, a flannel Waist
Is more advisable than a silk one. At least
one flannel shirt waist and one silk one
NOBODY LOOKS 'AT
BUT WHEN 'A -WOMAN WEARS. ONE I -
8 Peoria Herald-Transcript.
should find its way into every wardrohe.
These two unpretentious bodices need not
become nearly asmonotonous as one might
fancy. If they are simply made and the'
proper colors are chosen, they can be
varied to Infinitude by changes of neck
wear. Every one knows what a mere
nothing it takes to make a pretty stock.
Anything light or bright can be used for
tho purpose, and one pretty, washable
lace tie can tje manipulated into jabot, cas
cade jar bow, and tied in a different way
each time it is worn with a different -colored
There are ' two accommodating shades
that are pretty in any fabric, and that
will harmonize with necKwear and belt, in
any imaginable tint. One is appropriate
for blondes and the other for brunettes,
and tho girl who can afford but a single
extra bodice would be wise to select one of
these two colors. The first is a soft gray
and the other anyone of the 'shades, rang
ing from corn 'to coffee color, and Including
tan, amber arid even" clear yellow.'-.
Just a word' about the affliction of 'being
'too long-waisted or too short-Valsted. A
natural defect on this score can be dis
guised by the color of the belt. The short
waist is easily lengthened, tb all appear
ances, by having the bodice finished with
a tight, well-boned lining, arranged to be
worn outside of the skirt belt, having
the waist extend down farther in front
than behind, and the narrow girdle, which
must positively be of the same shade as
tho bodice, sewed on the edge of
the bodice. This Is the secret of
the elegant, long, tapering waist that has
made the success of so many splendid
stage figures, revealed by no less a person
than the superbly graceful Mrs. Leslie
Carter. Too long a waist can be modified
by wearing the bodice inside of the skirt
belt and having a wider girdle, which must
positively be of the same shade as the
Bkirt ANITA DE CAMPI.
millinery as A fine art-
That's Bow One Successful New Yorlt
Milliner Approached It.
Most women who gain ascendency In tho
millinery trade learn the "business from the
hat frame up, so to speak, and become
known through their years of experience,
in a side street shop just off Fifth avenue,
in .New York, however, Is an established
woman milliner, who has reversed this
order of things and has come into the
business by a new route. She is, very
! probably, the only woman in this country,
UUUUlUlllg LU IUU J.1CW 1U1A OU11, tVlllUll
recently interviewed her, who deliberately
studied art as a stepping-stone to mil
linery. She has cut In on the trade where
many milliners leave off. Most of them
In learning the business do "facings" and
linings, tie endless bows In muslin and
buckram, as practice work, learn to wire
I and shir and how to do smocking, feather-
curling, lace rosette-making and quill-
The woman innovator did none of these
things, not at least in the beginning.
Her first step, after settling upon milll-
LATEST GOWNS SEEN IN THE NEW
nery as her llfework, was to enroll herself
ag pupil in the individually taught class
of an efficient art teacher and take to
proportional drawing and prospecting the
analysis of color and the reasoning out the
whys and wherefores of given effects on
certain substances, as regularly and con
scientiously, as If she were going to paint
pictures, or try to excel in architecture or
sculpture. She worked hard and mastered
the course. And it is a year and a half
now since she hired a shop, first painted
her surname in noticeable characters
across the door and placed three care
fully chosen model hats In the window on
three respective little wooden stands.
Now madame Is fairly launched, without
fear "of overtopping. She "makes" for
Mrs. X., Mrs. Z. and their personal
friends, in a circle of persons able to
pay what they choose for what they
fancy. Her name is being handed about
from one to the other, and older and
more popularly established milliners look
curiously at the carriages before her mod
est shop and remark to their saleswomen
and confidants that the newcomer
"caught on" In a m'arvelously short time.
This milliner Is tile daughter of a well
known business marn in a city near New
Yorc. She had no idea of trying to ele
vate or reform the trade by adopting It,
but went into it because she wanted some
line of work that would afford full scope
for her talents and believed millinery to
be that work.
"My advice to any woman with natural
taste who wants to go into millinery Is to
study thoroughly the laws and principles
of the becoming," she says. "I mean the
A MAN'S NEW HAT.
becoming in the sense of the fit and
proper, as well as the beautiful. She can
study the making of frames and the gen
eral hat trade technicalities later, but
there are always plenty of skilled helpers
of that kind to be had for moderate
wages, whereas tho whole profit and faint
of a good milliner hangs upon her ability
to design, to make the hat suit the build
and head and face characteristics of the
customer. It is not the materials of
which a hat or bonnet,is made that count
in the sale, but the way these materials
are put together and the individuality that
is exerted in the work. With innate taste
and technical knowledge combined a mil
liner can't go wrong as to shapes and
color blending, and all the world knows
that there are scores and scores of women
who will rake and scrape ?20 or J30 for a
becoming hat, when they would not pay
half that sum for an etching or a water
color or a piece of pottery. That is" why
I put my art studies to this use.
' "A becoming bat is a necessity to many
women, in fact, to the large majority. Art
Is valued for Itself only by a few. Be-
sldes, I am an enthusiast. I enjoy making
the best and most of my customers' natlvo
possibilities, and it is a very handsome
woman indeed that a becoming hat won't
Improve. I regard millinery, when prac
ticed right, as one of the liberal profes
sions, not a mere trade, and it is an art
that depends much more on the exercise
of the mind than tho labor of hands. I
believe that tho reason why men so often
occupy the top rungs of the sartorial lad
der la because men go more Into the fund
amental part of the business, and study
ing It more closely, prepare themselves
for it more seriously than women do."
FASHION REPEATS ITSEIiF.
Veers Around to Graceful Mold of
First Empire Sldrt War.
That history repeats itself Is a plati
tude, but a platitude sometimes is the
truth. In 180S, under the guidance of Jo
sephine, the sartorial phrase was "How
well Mme. or Mile. So-and-So shows off
her lines! How beautifully she Is draped!"
To show les Hgne3 is the desideratum of
fashionable dress at the present time, 90
years after. The fact that knowledge of
effect and simplicity of outline produced
the best results, first begun to be real
ized then, has now developed Into an ac
knowledged axiom. Fashion, after go
ing through all the transformation scenes
of crinolines, dress improvers, balloon
sleeves, etc., once again has veered
! around to the graceful mold of the first
empire, the beginning and the closing
years of the 19th century being the most
artistic of all.
A wordy war still rages around the skirt
a la mode. There is the skirt with the
front and sides carefully molded to the
figure, and one broad box plait, the "pli
Bulgare," 'behind. There is the "Jupe
bonne femme," set into knife plaits all the
way around, pressed flat around the hips
and cut on the principle of the sun-ray
skirt. There is the skirt set into small
tucks at the back, or into actual gathers;
the draped skirt, the tunlque and the
seamless-back skirt. Never before have
we offered so many sacrifices on tne altar
of variety. Plain skirts are not yet
doomed; grace and common sense to
gether go to recommend them.
Velvet and kid laces are the newest de
velopment In the trimming line, these
materials being cut out in a pattern like
ordinary coarse lace and worn either
fulled or laid flat on the dress Itself. Fur
Is contorted Into all sorts and conditions
of shape and form; fur ruches, fur bows
and ruffles, fur toques, all takes prece
dence over the plain bands of fur with
which wo were content some years ago.
It seems a pity, for good fur, like good
wine, needs no bush, and Is most beau
tiful when left In its unadorned simplic
ity. And much twisting and turning spoil3
it for future use.
Sary Emms Photysraphs.
Our Sary Emma is possessed to be at aomethln'
She's oilers doin' loony things, unheard of fur
One time there wa'nt no limit ter the distance
eho would tramp
Ter git a good-fer-nothln', wuthlesa, canceled
Another spell folks couldn't rest ontll, by hook
She got 'em all to write their names inside a
But thoueh them flts were bad enough, the
wust is nowadays,
For now she's got that peaky freak, the photy-
She had ter have a camera, sad them things
cost a sight,
So she took up subscriptions fer th "Woman's
And got one fer a premium a blamed new
That takes a tin-type sudden, when she presses
on a spring
And eense she got It, aakes alive! there's1 noth-
ln on the place
That hain't been pictured lookln' like a horrible
The plg3, the cows, the horse, tho colt, the
chickens large and small.
She goes a-gunnln' for 'em, and she bags 'em
one and all.
She tuk me once a-oettln' up on top a load er
My feet oheta out the wagon, and my head's a
She took her ma In our back yard, ay-hangln'
out the clothes,
"With hands as big as buckets, and a face that's
A yard of tongue and monstrous teeth la what
, she call3 a dog,
The cat's a kind er fuzzy-lookin' shadder In a
And I've got a suspicion that what killed our
Was that he see his likeness In our Sarys pho-
t j graph.
She's "tonln " er "develerpln " er "prlntln" "
ha'f the time;
She's allers buyln' pasteboard ter mount up her
Our front room and the settln'-room is Ilka
some awful show,
"With freaks and framed outrages stuck all
round 'em In a row.
But next spring I'll take them plcters and ril
fetch some of 'em out
And hang 'em round the garden when the cbrn
begins ter sprout;
I'll be safe from crows and blackbirds and that
kind er feathered trash,
Fer them photygraphs of Sary's, they beat
scarecrows all ter smash.
Joe Lincoln In Brooklyn Life.
JjUt of the Valley.
That delightfully fragrant and graceful
flower, the lily of the valley, is denounced
by tho German papers as veiling a dead
ly poison. It is said that both the stalks
and the flowers of this lovely plant con
tain prusslc acid. It Is extremely dan
gerous to put the stalks Into one's mouth,
as, If .the sap happens to get into even
the tiniest crack of the lips, it produces
swelling, often accompanied with severe
pain. It is also advisable not to throw the
dead flowers where birds can get at
them, for they often cause th6t death or
young fowls and pigeons.
Here at the end of nineteen hundred, years
They tell us woman Is a creature "newl"
Methlnks she always like herself appears.
This human opal of the changing hue.
She Is limpid as the morning dew.
Yet Is she ofttlmes wise- than, the seers.
What man dares say he reads her through, and
Here at the end of nineteen hundred years?
The same as when men fought for her with
Is she today who leads them on to sue.
Yet always, when some closing epoch nears.
They teU us woman Is a creature new.
She Is made of honey and of rue;
She is made out of laughter and of teaw.
Eegarded from whatever point of view,
Methlnks she always like herself appears.
She Is a thing of many hopes and fears,
Of many virtues, yet of vices, too.
Touched with the flames of two opposing
This human opal of the changing- hue.
An angel or a demon, false or true
As man may fashion her. He who has ears
Will barken and be warned. Yet thsy are few.
Here at the end of nineteen hundred yeans.
Ella Wheeler Wilcox In N. Y. Journal.
SUFFRAGE AND THE HOME
Denver Republican Joins Issue With,
Mrs. Carolina Corbin on the Po
litical Eanallty Question.
Mrs. Caroline Corbin, president of the
Woman's Anti-Suffrage Society, in a re
cent address at Chicago, subsequently re
ferred to In The Oregonian, said that,
while there are many good women, no
doubt, among the suffrage people, "they
have not thought the thing down to its
conclusions." She added: "If they had,
they would understand that political equal
ity, and with it industrial equality, would
mean the making of the individual and
not the family the unit. Women would
not be anything.
"lecturers like Mrs, Charlotte Perkins
Stetson may say that women should put
their babies In breeches and go to their
work like men, but Mrs. Stetson forgets
that there would not be any babies. Miss
Anthony may say that she would not ob
ject If all the men were swept off the
earth, but she forgets the absurdity of her
To all this the Denver Republican joins
direct issue and waves the banner of
woman's suffrage in vigorous fashion, as
"Mrs. .Corbin, to view her statement in
a charitable light, is ignorant of the re
spective relations of the home and the bal
lot in tho states which have adopted
woman's suffrage. If ignorance Is not her
plea, then her statement must be put
down as misrepresentation, as familiar
ity with the conditions existing in equal
suffrage states of the West would con
vince the lecturer that political equality
has 'struck no blow at tho family.
"In Colorado each succeeding school
census shows a normal increase in the
number of children attending the public
schools, and If the evil effects of suffrage
Were so glaring as portrayed by Mrs. Cor
bin, there would have been a perceptible
decrease ere this. As regards the ties of
home and family, they are too strongly
knit in America to be disrupted by the
-equal exercise of the elective franchise.
The suffrage states of the We3t are
home states, even more essentially than
the states of the East, where divorces are
greater in proportion to the population.
"The condition of affairs in Prance la
proof that tho danger of national decline
In population is a purely social and not a
political question. While Industrial equal
ity may lessen, the number of homes and
consequently lessen the growth of the
population, this is not necessarily an out
growth of political equality. In the East,
where industrial equality 13 at its high
est stage, political equality Is unknown;
while In the West, where there is politi
cal equality, industrial equality has not
yet become a dominant question. Mrs.
Corbin and the anti-suffragists must look
outside the field of equality in politics
in order to find a name for their bugaboo
of the numerical decline of the American
LOTS OF FUN IN THIS.
Buttonhole So veins: by Men and
Whittling Contests by Women.
For a quiet home party, where dancing
Is not engaged In, scarcely anything is
more amusing than a button-sewing and
button-hole working contest, in which
the men do all the sewing. The hostess
prepares beforehand as many kinds of
cambric, four or five inches in length and
two inches wide, neatly stitched around
the edges by machine, as there are to be
men. in tho party. At one end of each
band a three-quarter Inch button-hole is
cut. A threaded needle and a horn but
ton of suitable size are added to the out
fit. Each man is given one of these bands,
and ho must choose one of the women
present to be his teacher. Then he must
set to work and make the best button
hole possible. His teacher may tell him
to set the stitches and what to do, but In
no case shall she sew for him. A half hour
is allowed for the work, and the man who
succeeds in making the very best button
hole and sews the button on most ac
ceptably wins a first prize, which, if he
prefers, he may present to his instructor.
Then, as an opportunity for the women
to exhibit their skill in whittling, a spe
cial tournament Is arranged, and a large
sheet is spread in the middle of the room
to catch the whittlirgs. The women choose
their Instructors, but In no case shall they
whittle for them. Each instructor pro
vides his pupil with a block of soft wood
and a jackknlfe. A good-sized jug Is set
in the center of the sheet and each wom
an Is requested to whittle her piece of
wood into the right shape and size for a
stopper to the jug. It is surprising to
noto the liability of an unused whlttler
to make a success of this experiment,
but there's no end of fun in it, and prob
ably the very last person expected Is the
one to win the prize.
SOME HOPE FOR OLD MAIDS.
Over Tvrlce as Many Bachelors as
Spinsters In United States.
Some one, says the New York Sun, has
proposed a husbands' union for the pro
tection of husbands, though just what
they are to be protected from Is not yet
stated. Possibly the union is to be found
ed on the ame lines a3 the School for
Wives, established In England. Still bet
ter are the marriage schools which are be
ing developed in Germany on very prac
tical lines. They are for girls and
women only, and the value of such a train
ing cannot be overestimated. Girls leave
the marriage school competent to under
take the management of a house and of
a husband. The girls who have been
graduated from these schools have been
extra lucky in getting married, so it is
Another society which has been organ
nlzed in Denmark is the Celibacy Insur
ance Society. Its object Is to provide for
those women who either cannot or will not
provide themselves with husbands. The
premiums begin at the age of 13 and end
at 40, an age at which it Is supposed
most of the members will have abandoned
all thought of marriage. Such being the
case, the woman receives an annuity for
life. If she marries at any time aha for
feits all her rights.
Old maids in the United States are out
numbered bv the bachelors, althom?- it
is popularly supposed that the contrary!
is the case. To quote exact figures. t-r6
are 7,427,757 bachelors and 3,224,134 crIi-
stars. This is lraon tho aiithnrti- r l
i government report. Even in Massac: j
; setts, wnere it was tnougnt that clu ma a
constitute a large proportion of the perf
lation, tney coma eacn find a hmMM
and then jiot exhaust the stock of si- - 2
men, for there are 226,085 men and cr j
219.25S women, who have not yet entered
Into the bonds of matrlnonv.
New Tork state has 120,000 more bach-
elors than spinsters. Only one stata in
the Union has more female celibates thv
male and that Is California. In w h
there areo!),4t6 of the former and 22 CJ
ui tutr lukier. laa state or w.isn r--n
has, perhaps, the largest excess of f -
lorn sincle men S0.537 all told th-, 1 -
married women numbering- only 91--1. ot
01 an equal number of bachelors ari
widowers between 25 and 20 jeara of ag-,
80 widowrs remarry for every 13 ba;c -ors
who enter the bonds of hymen f t tha
nrst time, .for every spinster married be
tween 30 and 60. two widows" ar wmir.
ried. Both facts are eloquent in favor cf!
the comparative advantages of matri-1
CLEVER LADY WILSON.
Most IntereaUaE Flsruro la the War
In Sutb Africa.
Lady Sarah Wilson is said to be the first
woman war correspondent on record.
Known merely as Lady Wilson, the s -
niflcance and importance of her parent: j
are lost to us. Wilson is a good nano,
but it succesta nothintr bevonrl U'l.cm
I says Harper's Bazar.
Lady Sarah is the Bister of the lata1
Duke of Marlborousrh. and at thv lnf T.r.-: !
Handolph Churchill, and therefore an a--t j
01 jar. Winston unurcnlll, who recent v
escaped from Pretoria, where he was t d '
a prisoner oy tne Boers. A short t.o
ago Lady Wilson was taken n-risnr--
but she wa3 shortly afterward exchang;J j
lor a Boer woman at Mafeking.
This Englishwoman's remarkable bra--ery
In taking the ride from, Mafek.nr 2
miles across the veldt; her untiring- effor s
not only in giving tne Dally Mall, of Lou
den, some cf the best reports from tha
Transvaal, but In her caDadtv as a n-T
Cross nurse, make her an admirable cJ
interesting figure In the campaign. S .3
seems to have inherited th qn.l'onf nh-ir.
apterl3tlcs of the great Marlborough a-C
his wife. The warlike spirit of the on-
and the forceful personality of Anr" 3
friend, which have woven themselves
through succeeding generations of JIi' -boroughs,
appear In the character of Lay
Sarah Wilson as the pattern thread. I'j
the several capacities of nurse, fighter a-1
writer, she has done boldly and success
fully that which, were sho not a nob e
woman. and a Marlborough at that, wdu d
probably be censured and possibly forbii
den. WOMEN IN THE PULPIT..
Tare of Them French In Chicago
Churches on One Sunday.
Twenty-five years ago the appearance of
a woman preacher in an orthodox pu p t
would have created no end of excitement.
Today It is so common an occurrence tat
on a recent week in Chicago three women
preached In three different pulpits, ard nz
one saw In the fact anything unusual.
Mias Sadie American occupied Dr. Em"
G. Hlrsch's pulpit, it being the second tir:e
In three yeara that Sinai temple has been
opened for its congregation to listen to
feminine eloquence. There was a larg-
congregation, and Misa American interest
ed her auditors for over an hour with a
review of the leading eventa of tho 131j
Mrs. J. H. O. Smith preached a Christ
mas sermon on, "Mary, the Mother cf
Christ," to- her husband's congregat en,
In the Union Christian church, and Mrs
H. W. Thomas spoke to a big audience la
the People'3 church, whose pulpit s.3
shared jointly with the Rev. Dr. Thomas,
one of the best-known divines in tha Mid
Cherub, or Imp!
Oh, little cherub, whom I hold
(From half -past ten till half-past four).
With cyea of blue and locks of gold
(I've walked twelve miles across this floor!)
Oh, darling-, my fond heart would brealc
(My back, Indeed, la broken now)
If aught of harm should you o'ertoka.
(Oh. will you ever ceaaa this row I)
Dear little watf with dimpled cheek.
Deep dimples where the elves arc hid.
My love for thee how can I apeak:
(Er-raouw wer-raous that's the kid)
I fain would sins a sans to thee
(You've sun? six hours, as imp-possessed)
To tell the Joy thou hrlngat to me.
(For land's sake, give your pa. a rest!)
And If sometimes a pain shaH come
(It has come; It came five hours ago)
To thee, my heart, though stricken dumb,
(If only you were stricken sol)
Would still for thee er-raouw wer-raouw
Would still er-raouw my thoughts do limp
Would still er-raouw oh. let up, now!
For Lord's sake. Mary, take tlria Imp!
A. J. Waterhouso In 8. F. Examiner.
California's Girl Artist.
A California girl, who acquired much of
her success with the brush In New Tcrk
art schools, will have two pictures hung
In the salon at tho world's fair in Pa'L3
in 1300. Both American and foreign artists
have called MIs3 Clara T. McChesney
"America's foremost woman painter," a-J
tho exposition committee of judges for t'-a
admission of paintings have also ranked
her highly, as altogether only 260 Amer'
can pictures have been accepted for places
in tho salon.
Miss McChesney is the daughter of th3
principal of the Oakland (Cal ) hih
school. She commenced her artistic stud
ies under "Virgil Williams in San Fran
cisco. In 1899 sho went to New Tork. an!
uithln a few ypars has set up a studio In
Paris. From the commencement of hr
career she has received innumerable
awards and medals.
A moderately Intimate acquaintance with
infants, says the Woman's Homo Compan
ion, enables one to distinguish, almost
from birth, three cries the healthy ye 1
by which the child exercises his lungs, t3
fretting of moderate discomfort, and tvo
acute cry of pain, the latter two Includ -?
at first hunger, thirst and dlssatlsfac:";".
By the end of three months the nurso cr
mother should bo able to distinguish tso
fretting of actual physical discomfort fron
that of restlessness, and the sharp cry of
pain from the less acute announcement of
thirst, hunger, etc., while anger imparts a
characteristic quality to the cry.
Japanese Women Diver.
Over 100 Japanese women following tho
hazardous profession of divers are found
along the coast of the peninsula. They aro
divided into four batches, and their ages
range from 17 to 30. They come almost
exclusively from Shlma, Mlyeken, a not"d
fishery center in Japan. Their earnings
are of course not uniform, as they aro
paid according to the amount of their
work, which consists in diving for agar
agar, seaweed, sea-ear, sea cucumber,
The first pan? of her married life.
I heard a dame declare.
Was when heart's dearest put his feet
On her best parlor chair.