Morning Oregonian. (Portland, Or.) 1861-1937, September 21, 1915, Image 3

Historic Oregon Newspapers

Morning Oregonian., September 21, 1915, Page 3, Image 3

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Newspaper Page TextTTTTT JTOKAiLXG OTTEG O NTAN. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 1915. 3 WILLOW! woman IS NOW BILLOWY Fashion Decrees Delicate Bustles and Thin and Fluffy Dresses. STYLES OF 1880 RAIDED Waist Tighter Tliau Ever, but Gowns Are 1'iillcr Utile Porte Coclieres or Awnings Stand Out at Hips. Fur Used liven on Shoes. CHICAGO. Sept. 20. (Special.) From the viewpoint of mere man, who cannot fathom the reason or sense at all. astounding facts were brongcht out at the opening of the .annual Ehoiv of the Fashion Art League of America at the Congress Hotel today. Perhaps the most perplexing: feature lfi that yesterday woman, lovely woman was tall, slender, willowy and svelte, and today the same woman is short and thick and billowy instead of wil lowy. Of course the woman Is the same, but the modistes have turned tho trick so cleverly that the effect !s amazing. Fashiona of Isso Rnltlril. "It is only a raid on the 1880 period." said Madame Alia Ripley, former pre siding genius of the Fashion Art J.easrue and one of its most active members. She was asked if the present styles will not make woman look old fashioned. "Fashion," she replied, "is a state of mind. Today word goes out from the Fashion Art League that the bustle has returned. Not the old, heavy bustle, but a more delicate, artistic concep tion. Rather a bustle effect I would say, contained in the dress itself. The word also goes out that the hoop skirt has returned, that the fashions are a revival of the fashions of three and a half decades ago, slightly altered and improved. Immediately women adjust them selves to the new situation. In two weeks nothing is so new as the old and nothing- so old as the new. The styles this year are the result of a tendency that has been growing stronger for some time." Valt to Be 'I IrM. "What hase become of the clinging dress, the short dress, the swagger dress and all the dresses that were the rage last year?" "They remain in a manner, the waists of tho dresses are tighter than ever. In fact, they are tight as possible. Form fitted, we call them, and the ,waist line .s higher and smaller." "Wasp-like?" suggested, "Xot exactly. liut the dress is full. Full-skirted, hooped, if desired, bustled in the back, if wished, and panniered on the side if so inclined. Not exactly the 1830 hoop, but the 1880 effect. An interesting arrangement." Kvrrything Thin and Kluffy. A glimpse at the new dressea on beautifui living models show that everything is extremely thin and fluffy. The waist line still lingers up between 'the shoulders and there are little porte cocheres or awnings of flimsy material, wired and standing out at the hips. Also there is much fur. The fur cor responds with the color of the material and is seen at the neck, at the bottom and cuffs of the coats, around the shoe tops and around the hem of the skirt. The fur on the shoes is supposed to make amends, in a manner, for the ex tremely thin stockings. Also the skirts are full and a fash ionable lady, dancing, say the waltz, for instance, will resemble somewhat a whirling Dervish. MARYLAND DEAL BARED PLEDUG II V III. AIR I.EE DECLARED nESI'O.XSIBLK FOR DEFEAT. PromiNe of Seat in Senate in Return for Mayor Preiton Support Ob noxious to Democrat. OREGOXIAX NEWS BUREAU, Wash ington, Sept. 20. (Special.) Senator Blair Lee, who recently was defeated for the Democratic gubernatorial nom ination in the recent Democratic pri maries in Maryland, owes his defeat largely to the fact that he attempted to work an old and often effective po litical trick, but was found out before the primary election was held. Sen ator Lee was appointed to succeed the late Senator Rayner in the United States Senate and subsequently was overwhelmingly elected to fill out the unexpired Rayner term, which runs until March 4. lf17. Lee was regarded as the favorite in the Democratic contest and betting odds all favored him. He seemed strong, not alone because he had' a plurality of 40,000 when he was elected to the Senate over two opposing can didates, a Republican and a Progres sive, but because he had the support of Mayor Preston, of Baltimore, who, it was believed, could swing Baltimore to I-.ee. What killed Lee was the fact that lie had made a deal with Mayor Pres ton, under which, if elected Governor, he was to appoint Preston to the United States Senate. Unfortunately for Lee and Preston, news of the deal leaked out and the Maryland Demo crats, resenting any such plan to fill two offices at one time, rose up in their might and defeated Lee, at the same time putting a crimp in Preston's chances of becoming Senator later on. pride in their youngsters beaming in their happy emiles. were present from a'.l parts of the valley. Entire families were here. More babies were never be fore seen in the city, and it has been suggested that the day be made com plete next year with an old-fashioned baby show. Judges of the children's exhibits were: Miss Helen Cowgill, of the Ore gon Agricultural College, canned fruit and cooking; Miss Alice Horning, head of the department of domestic science of the local high school, sewing; J. II. Koberg, vegetables; Mrs. C. D. Thomp son, flowers; and J. R. Nickelsen, poultry. The contestants were divided into two classes Class A. including all 12 years of age or older; Class B, all un der 12 years. RADIUM MINING SIMPLIFIED Ited notion or Refining Cost Is Aid 'to American Output, SAX FRANCISCO, Sept 20. Van H. Manning, Director of the United States Bureau of Mines, speaking at the open ing session of the American ' Mining Congress here, today, detailed the dis covery, by his bureau, of the new ra dlumref ining drocess, which reduces the cost pf refining two-thirds. Mr., Manning said the new , process will make available large deposits of car notite' in Colorado and Utah and may result in the United States taking first place as a radium producing nation. Dr. Gearge Otois Smith, Director of the United States Geological Survey and Carl Scholz, president of the con gress, made addresses today. Mr. Scholz deplored the publication of the' report of the Commission on Industrial Relations. The Mining Congress will occupy three days. Delegates from all parts of the L'nited States are in attendance a la Just a Litlle Bit in Advance Why is it that women who are accustomed to wear the C, B. a la Spirite Corset are actually noticeable above the averaee run of well-rlrpsserl wompn for their Z 'to h Vf smartness? h A s because trie C. B. Corset always keeps just a trifle m advance of the prevailing fashion. Not far enough to be extreme, but just far enough to be distinc tive to make the newest gowns, display themselves to the fullest advantage, instead of losing effectiveness, as an ordinary corset can make them do. These newest Fall models produce that slight curve-in at the waistline that -is so much in vogue this season, and still does not injure the figure in the slightest. No matter what your type of figure, there is a C. B. model which will train it into lines of smartest elegance. See the .tew Fall models here today. The standard everywhere for the woman of fashion. Fourth Floor SCHOOL FAIR SUCCESS HOOD RIVER IXDISTKIAL EXHIBIT ABOVE AVERAGE.' C bildrrn HiHplny Real Interest and Re Mult Is Showing of Products Amazing; to Their Elders. HOOD RIVER, Or.. Sept. 20. (Spe cial.) In interest shown by the school children of the entire county and in the increased numbers of the entries the Fourth Annual Industrial School Fair held here at Library Hall Saturday was the best since the custom was inaugu rated in 1912. "The exhibits show the result of hard, determined work on the !art of the young contestants," said Professor C. D. Thompson,- county school superintendent, who had charge of the fair. , Tables in the assembly hall of the Library Building were piled high with exhibits of corn, vegetables, potatoes, melons and cookery. Banks of flowers, brilliant asters and dahlias, were shown by the younr gardeners. Parents of the young . exhibitors, HISTORIC HOTEL IS SOLD Continental at Philadelphia does Vnder Sheriffs Hammer. PHILADELPHIA, Sept. 20. The Con tinental Hotel, one of the oldest and among the mostfamous hotels of the country in Civil War days, was sold by the Sheriff today to an attorney repre senting undisclosed interests. The pur chase price was $1,121,500. Manager Brothers, of New York, who operated the hotel under the name of the Bell Hotel Corporation, leased the property last year for 21 years. At that time, foreclosure proceedings had been instituted by the holders of a mortgage amounting to more than $1, 000.000. Many noted guests, including Presi dent Grant and the Prince of Wales, made the Continental their headquar ters while visiting Philadelphia In years gone by. PROJECT COST INCREASED $12.50 an Acre Added for Drainage of Klamath Irrigation Fields. OREGON I AN NEWS BUREAU; Wash ington, Sept. 20. To build new drain age works on the Klamath irrigation project, the Secretary of the Interior has added $12.50 an acre to the cost of that project, with the consent of the majority of water users. Those involuntarily subscribing to this increase will meet the additional payment under the reclamation exten sion act. Those who did not subscribe will have SI. 25 an acre added to their annual operation payments for a period of ten years beginning March, 1917. Mail and Telephone Orders Filled by Expert Shoppers Ss man, wou tv-o. flerchandise effc Merit OnkT Home Phone A 6691 Pacific Phone Marshall 5000 woman IS DRA1NG Driving of Ambulance in Wan Becomes Too Tame. '- HEAVIER DUTY IS SOUGHT EX-PRESIDENT TAFT RESTS Vacation to Be Given Over to Golf and Deep-Sea Fishing. SAN DIEGO, Cal., Sept. 20. Ex-Pres-Ident William Howard Taft. who has been in California for two weeks, re turned to San riego today for a vaca tion of eight days. He is accompanied by Mrs. Taft and their daughter Helen. The ex-President will pass his vaca tion playing golf and motoring in the mountains. He also has expressed a desire to try his luck at deep sea fish ing. During his stay here it is prob able that he will speak again at the Panama-California Exposition. Mrs. Iiartlett Boder, Artcr Thrill ing Experiences at Front, Says She Can Handle Truck as Veil as Any Tommy. NEW YORK, Sept. 14. Mrs. Bart'.ett Boder, one of the first women to drive an ambulance in the European- war, has arrived in New York on a vaca tion, after a thrilling year spent at the front in France. She was reared in New York, but after a vacation to recover from the fatigue of exception ally arduous service, she will return to seek further duty with the armies of the allies. "Ambulance driving has its compensation's,"- she said today. "It is hard work and it is often dangerous, but there is a splendid sense that one Is doing something and who wants not to be doing something in tremendous times like these? "However, I feel that I have been graduated, as it were. I. am going back before Christmas and I am going to try to get a big supply truck to drive. These trucks carry provisions to the men at the front. I can han dle one as well as any Tommy, I feel sure." Mme. Boder formerly was a singer of prominence. She has been driving out of the hospital bases of Roven and Bologne, and brings back with her the stories of many daring adventured and hair-breadth escapes. DUTCH BUY 20 WARPLANES Tests or First Six So Satisfactory Others Arc Ordered. NEW YOrtK, Sept. 20. Twenty American warplanes have just been ordered by the Dutch government, ac- AMERICAN WOMAN WHO HAS BEEN DRIVING WAR AMBULANCE INSIDE OF BATTLE LINE IN FRANCE. f - t Xi1fS? y- I IfQS W: :V V A : cording to a telegram received from Los Angeles by the Aero Club of America. Th first order for six warplanes was placed by the 19utch government two months ago with the Glenn L. Martin Company, of Los Angeles. Captain Visscher and Lieutenant Ter Poorten, of the Dutch flying corps, were sent to Los Angeles to put the machines through their tests. The tests were so satisfactory that an order for 20 machines was placed immediately. ROAD BARRED; SUIT FILED KanelHT Accused In Action of Fell ing Trees Before Auto. HOOD RIVER, Or.. Sept. 20. (Spe cial.) Alleging that George Fry, man ager of El Corregidor Ranch, felled trees across a roaa in front of his ma chine and blocked the highway. Fred Howe, a garage man, haa brought suit for $500 against Mr. Frye and Colonel N. F. Tucker, owner of the property. Mr. Howe -says the trouble arose when he started for the G. M. Kirk patrlck ranch on the road through the Tucker property. The Tucker interests, according to Mr. Howe, are disputing with Mr. Klrkpatrtck over the rights to a spring. The car was allowed to enter but had to be abandoned on the return, the complaint asserts. VILLA PLEDGES AIO Protection of Americans in Mexico Is Promised. NO REPRISALS IN STORE Photo Copyright by Underwood, MME. BAHTL E1T BODEIC DEAD FROM F-4 ARRIVE Four Identified Bodies to Be Sent to Homes; Others Go to Arlington. SAN FRANCISCO. Sept. 20. The eight flag-draped caskets containing the dead of the F-4. which arrived here today aboard the United States steamer Supply, will be shipped away tomor row, the four Identified bodies to their homes, tho fragmentary remains of 17 bodies to Arlington National Cemetery at Arlington, Va. There was no. ceremony, only the baring of the heads of the few scat tered about the United States trans port docks. The funeral ship, remaining out In the stream for four hours, docked late with the turn of the tide. SEPARATE TRIAL IS ASKED Defendant Objects to Being Ar raigned AVitli Road's ex-Counsel. NEvV YORK. Sept. 20. Charles F. Brooker, one of the defendants in the Government suit against the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad Com pany, today asked Federal Judge Wil liam H. Hunt for a separate trial. Brooker gave as a reason that he did not want to-be arraigned with Ed ward D. Robblns, former council of the New Haven road, alleged to have sanctioned the acquisition of the sub sidiaries which has created the al leged monopoly denounced by the indictment. Three Postoffices to Advance. OREGONIAN NEWS BUREAU, Wash ington, Sept. 20. The following post offices will advance October 1 from fourth class to presidential grade, due to an. Increase In postal receipts Ore gon, Myrtle Creek. Washington, Coulee City. Hartline and Tonasket. General Sends Word That He- Re grots Action in Ordering Consuls Out or Territory Controlled by Him, but Offers to Help. Vn7ASIirXGTO:V- Se- 2 General Villa today authorized his Washington agent. Enrique C. Llorente. to issue a statement promising protection to Americans and other foreigners in Mex ican territory controlled by him. There have been reports that foreign ers would suffer as a result of the out come of the Pan-American conference at New York, forecasting recognition of Carranza, and the recent renewed warning to Americans to leave the fighting zones of Northern Mexico. "General Villa wishes to state em phatically," Mr. Llorente said, "that while he regrets measures taken by the United States and Great Britain in or dering consuls and nationals out of ter ritory controlled by the convention government in the northern part of the republic, he will take special pains to care for the lives and property of all Americans and other foreigners who, by special circumstance, have not yet been able to comply with the advice of their governments. "It is considered opportune at this time to state furthermore that the army under General Villa's command is capable of maintaining order in the territory it controls and that even in case of actual fighting in that terri tory between the two factions there will be no danger to peaceful inhabi tants." Advices to the State Department re ceived late today said the evacuation of Torreon by the Villa forces was pro ceeding and was expected to be com pleted yesterday. September 19. A number of Americans who did not ac company the American consular officer from Durango several days ago were said to have left later overland for Torreon. BELGIAN ACCEPTS POST Professor Van Den Vcn Will Lecture at Princeton. PRrXCETON", N. J.. Sept. 20. It was announced today that Professor P. Van Den Ven. formerly of the University of Louvain. Belgium, had accepted an invitation to become the Spencer Trask lecturer at Princeton University for the coming year. He will give graduate courses in Byzantine history and art. Professor Van Den Ven was a refu gee from Louvain at the outbreak of the war and. after re-tching England, became a member of the faculty at Cambridge. He recently came to this country. GoldMedal Products f (Usai ANY way you turn on city streets or country roads, you're almost certain to find Standard Oil Company Stations. This means that no matter where you tour on the Coast, you can go every foot of the way orr the oil,, and gas that won highest honors, P. P. I. E. gold medals for efficiency, for uniformity, for quality Zerolene, the stan dard oil for motor cars, and Red Crown, the gasoline of quality. Slanclar Oil Gmpan i row i m Mail and Telephone Orders Filled by Expert Shoppers Merchandise cfcj Merit tOnly" Pacific Phone Marshall 5000 Home Phone A-6691 Black Plush Forms the Only Trimming on These Handsome Baby Lamb Coats, $18.50 (Saltz. Baby Lamb) Everyone knows the wonderful quality of Saltz fabrics their extreme style and durability. As well as being fash ioned from the finest material, these coats possess a wonderful amount of style their cut, their silk lining, their finished tai loring will appeal to the woman who knows. Made in the very latest 48-inch length, good and full. effectively trimmed with a wide band of plush all around the bottom of the coat to correspond with the collar and cuffs, and button trimming, also of plush. Third Floor Fascinating Millinery at $9.95 Lyons Velvet and Last-Minute Styles Made ven; smart With ostrich feathers k W ilh steel or jet beads e' i- Ur:iL t .V.. I L.VJ. ".iiifc rr i Li i J LiilL-lj UI u ll Li o With artistic fruit y' With Tvings and borvs J J With ribbon bindings You cannot imagine more lovely or tempting millinery styles they were just made to wear with Autumn suits. Shapes galore small, medium, large, straight, three-cornered, flared and curled brims, shirred, shaped and soft crowns. Black is the predominating color, although there are many in the deep, dark greens, browns and blues now so much worn. Third Floor "Verilbest BloiLSGS Have taken their inspiration from much higher-priced models and well, they have "copied," too. You would haadly expect to find such good-looking styles at $ 1 .00, yet they are here long or short-sleeved blouses, with collars that you can button high in military style, or leave comfortably open. Embroidered and lace trimmed models, of fine, soft voiles, and dainty sheer organdies. Finely tucked, hemstitched and .button-trimmed styles, any number of them, fresh and new for your selection Tuesday. Third Floor Two NewNainsook Envelope Chemise Special $1.19 Regular Price $1.65 Very fine quality nainsook, made in envelope chemise style, Empire models, trimmed with the finest of Valenciennes lace edging and insets of lace or lace me dallions. Finished with cunning bows of satin ribbon. These models are shown in the accom panying illustration. Fourth Floor Wonderful 56-Inch Broadcloth $2.50 Yd. Without a doubt broadcloth is the most fashionable of all fabrics for this season's wear. This is fine chiffor broadcloth, sponged and shrunk, ready for use. This same quality is used by exclusive tailors and dressmak ers in every large city in the coun try. It comes in wonderful shades of African brown, Russian green, field mouse, midnight blue, taupe. Burgundy, helio and rich black. Full 56 inches in width and a real broadcloth. Second Floor New Gloves FOR AUTUMN WEAR Washable Kassan, made of leather that washes perfectly. A practical street glove. In pearl or oak shades .$1.50 Harrison Reindeer Fabric (a new ship- J: ment). They have all f,," the appearance of doe or mocha and are much more satisfac tory, in washing and wearing qualities. White and gray $1.00 Reindeer Duplex, a very clever new glove, in gray only. 2 clasps. fancy embroidered backs , 50c First Floor What's New in the Trimming Section Plaid Chiffon, very smart and extremely new for blouses, 42 inches wide, at yard. $1.75. Striped Silk Nets, in black, white and evening shades, 42 inches wide, yard $1.50. Ombre Silk Tulle, shading from light to dark emerald, from light to dark rose, from pale to dark blue, and from light to dark yellow. 38 inches wide, and $1.75 yard. Silk Tulle Nets, so much in demand, in black, white and beau iiful evening shades, 72-inch, at $1.75. First Floor " ' i-- - -. 0NLY5M0REDAYS Com Knrly nnri Avoid the Crowds the I.att of the Week. REDLCKI) PRICKS. Daily Matinee at 2 P. M. MAT1NKK PRICES. A!' ic-a ts. 'Jk- ; Unx Sea 16. 7Tv. KVEMNG PRICES, l.owt-r Kloor, ."ic ; Balcony, 2.V' Box Seat.s. $1.0-J. A II i?tat3 Unserved. IMionp Main 1. A 1 1 1 PHONE YOUR WANT ADS TO THE OREGONIAN Main 7070 A 6095 The Original MALTED MILK Unloaa you may "HORlCtC S You may get a Substitute IAwiLraedGold llcdai San Irmcuco Expositio th hiyit honor on Imported 01jr OiT I