TTTTT JTOKAiLXG OTTEG O NTAN. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 1915.
3
WILLOW! woman
IS NOW BILLOWY
Fashion Decrees Delicate
Bustles and Thin and
Fluffy Dresses.
STYLES OF 1880 RAIDED
Waist Tighter Tliau Ever, but Gowns
Are 1'iillcr Utile Porte Coclieres
or Awnings Stand Out at Hips.
Fur Used liven on Shoes.
CHICAGO. Sept. 20. (Special.)
From the viewpoint of mere man, who
cannot fathom the reason or sense at
all. astounding facts were brongcht out
at the opening of the .annual Ehoiv
of the Fashion Art League of America
at the Congress Hotel today.
Perhaps the most perplexing: feature
lfi that yesterday woman, lovely woman
was tall, slender, willowy and svelte,
and today the same woman is short
and thick and billowy instead of wil
lowy. Of course the woman Is the
same, but the modistes have turned tho
trick so cleverly that the effect !s
amazing.
Fashiona of Isso Rnltlril.
"It is only a raid on the 1880 period."
said Madame Alia Ripley, former pre
siding genius of the Fashion Art
J.easrue and one of its most active
members. She was asked if the present
styles will not make woman look old
fashioned. "Fashion," she replied, "is a state of
mind. Today word goes out from the
Fashion Art League that the bustle has
returned. Not the old, heavy bustle,
but a more delicate, artistic concep
tion. Rather a bustle effect I would
say, contained in the dress itself. The
word also goes out that the hoop skirt
has returned, that the fashions are a
revival of the fashions of three and
a half decades ago, slightly altered and
improved.
Immediately women adjust them
selves to the new situation. In two
weeks nothing is so new as the old and
nothing- so old as the new. The styles
this year are the result of a tendency
that has been growing stronger for
some time."
Valt to Be 'I IrM.
"What hase become of the clinging
dress, the short dress, the swagger
dress and all the dresses that were
the rage last year?"
"They remain in a manner, the waists
of tho dresses are tighter than ever. In
fact, they are tight as possible. Form
fitted, we call them, and the ,waist
line .s higher and smaller."
"Wasp-like?" suggested,
"Xot exactly. liut the dress is full.
Full-skirted, hooped, if desired, bustled
in the back, if wished, and panniered
on the side if so inclined. Not exactly
the 1830 hoop, but the 1880 effect. An
interesting arrangement."
Kvrrything Thin and Kluffy.
A glimpse at the new dressea on
beautifui living models show that
everything is extremely thin and fluffy.
The waist line still lingers up between
'the shoulders and there are little porte
cocheres or awnings of flimsy material,
wired and standing out at the hips.
Also there is much fur. The fur cor
responds with the color of the material
and is seen at the neck, at the bottom
and cuffs of the coats, around the shoe
tops and around the hem of the skirt.
The fur on the shoes is supposed to
make amends, in a manner, for the ex
tremely thin stockings.
Also the skirts are full and a fash
ionable lady, dancing, say the waltz,
for instance, will resemble somewhat
a whirling Dervish.
MARYLAND DEAL BARED
PLEDUG II V III. AIR I.EE DECLARED
nESI'O.XSIBLK FOR DEFEAT.
PromiNe of Seat in Senate in Return
for Mayor Preiton Support Ob
noxious to Democrat.
OREGOXIAX NEWS BUREAU, Wash
ington, Sept. 20. (Special.) Senator
Blair Lee, who recently was defeated
for the Democratic gubernatorial nom
ination in the recent Democratic pri
maries in Maryland, owes his defeat
largely to the fact that he attempted
to work an old and often effective po
litical trick, but was found out before
the primary election was held. Sen
ator Lee was appointed to succeed the
late Senator Rayner in the United
States Senate and subsequently was
overwhelmingly elected to fill out the
unexpired Rayner term, which runs
until March 4. lf17.
Lee was regarded as the favorite in
the Democratic contest and betting
odds all favored him. He seemed
strong, not alone because he had' a
plurality of 40,000 when he was elected
to the Senate over two opposing can
didates, a Republican and a Progres
sive, but because he had the support
of Mayor Preston, of Baltimore, who,
it was believed, could swing Baltimore
to I-.ee.
What killed Lee was the fact that
lie had made a deal with Mayor Pres
ton, under which, if elected Governor,
he was to appoint Preston to the
United States Senate. Unfortunately
for Lee and Preston, news of the deal
leaked out and the Maryland Demo
crats, resenting any such plan to fill
two offices at one time, rose up in their
might and defeated Lee, at the same
time putting a crimp in Preston's
chances of becoming Senator later on.
pride in their youngsters beaming in
their happy emiles. were present from
a'.l parts of the valley. Entire families
were here. More babies were never be
fore seen in the city, and it has been
suggested that the day be made com
plete next year with an old-fashioned
baby show.
Judges of the children's exhibits
were: Miss Helen Cowgill, of the Ore
gon Agricultural College, canned fruit
and cooking; Miss Alice Horning, head
of the department of domestic science
of the local high school, sewing; J. II.
Koberg, vegetables; Mrs. C. D. Thomp
son, flowers; and J. R. Nickelsen,
poultry.
The contestants were divided into
two classes Class A. including all 12
years of age or older; Class B, all un
der 12 years.
RADIUM MINING SIMPLIFIED
Ited notion or Refining Cost Is Aid
'to American Output,
SAX FRANCISCO, Sept 20. Van H.
Manning, Director of the United States
Bureau of Mines, speaking at the open
ing session of the American ' Mining
Congress here, today, detailed the dis
covery, by his bureau, of the new ra
dlumref ining drocess, which reduces
the cost pf refining two-thirds. Mr.,
Manning said the new , process will
make available large deposits of car
notite' in Colorado and Utah and may
result in the United States taking first
place as a radium producing nation.
Dr. Gearge Otois Smith, Director of
the United States Geological Survey
and Carl Scholz, president of the con
gress, made addresses today. Mr.
Scholz deplored the publication of the'
report of the Commission on Industrial
Relations.
The Mining Congress will occupy three
days. Delegates from all parts of the
L'nited States are in attendance
a la
Just a Litlle Bit in Advance
Why is it that women who are accustomed to wear
the C, B. a la Spirite Corset are actually noticeable
above the averaee run of well-rlrpsserl wompn for their
Z 'to h Vf smartness?
h A s because trie C. B. Corset always keeps just a
trifle m advance of the prevailing fashion. Not far
enough to be extreme, but just far enough to be distinc
tive to make the newest gowns, display themselves to
the fullest advantage, instead of losing effectiveness, as
an ordinary corset can make them do.
These newest Fall models produce that slight curve-in
at the waistline that -is so much in vogue this season, and
still does not injure the figure in the slightest.
No matter what your type of figure, there is a C. B. model which will train it into
lines of smartest elegance. See the .tew Fall models here today.
The standard everywhere for the woman of fashion. Fourth Floor
SCHOOL FAIR SUCCESS
HOOD RIVER IXDISTKIAL EXHIBIT
ABOVE AVERAGE.'
C bildrrn HiHplny Real Interest and Re
Mult Is Showing of Products
Amazing; to Their Elders.
HOOD RIVER, Or.. Sept. 20. (Spe
cial.) In interest shown by the school
children of the entire county and in the
increased numbers of the entries the
Fourth Annual Industrial School Fair
held here at Library Hall Saturday was
the best since the custom was inaugu
rated in 1912. "The exhibits show the
result of hard, determined work on the
!art of the young contestants," said
Professor C. D. Thompson,- county
school superintendent, who had charge
of the fair. ,
Tables in the assembly hall of the
Library Building were piled high with
exhibits of corn, vegetables, potatoes,
melons and cookery. Banks of flowers,
brilliant asters and dahlias, were
shown by the younr gardeners.
Parents of the young . exhibitors,
HISTORIC HOTEL IS SOLD
Continental at Philadelphia does
Vnder Sheriffs Hammer.
PHILADELPHIA, Sept. 20. The Con
tinental Hotel, one of the oldest and
among the mostfamous hotels of the
country in Civil War days, was sold by
the Sheriff today to an attorney repre
senting undisclosed interests. The pur
chase price was $1,121,500.
Manager Brothers, of New York, who
operated the hotel under the name of
the Bell Hotel Corporation, leased the
property last year for 21 years. At
that time, foreclosure proceedings had
been instituted by the holders of a
mortgage amounting to more than $1,
000.000. Many noted guests, including Presi
dent Grant and the Prince of Wales,
made the Continental their headquar
ters while visiting Philadelphia In
years gone by.
PROJECT COST INCREASED
$12.50 an Acre Added for Drainage
of Klamath Irrigation Fields.
OREGON I AN NEWS BUREAU; Wash
ington, Sept. 20. To build new drain
age works on the Klamath irrigation
project, the Secretary of the Interior
has added $12.50 an acre to the cost
of that project, with the consent of the
majority of water users.
Those involuntarily subscribing to
this increase will meet the additional
payment under the reclamation exten
sion act. Those who did not subscribe
will have SI. 25 an acre added to their
annual operation payments for a period
of ten years beginning March, 1917.
Mail and Telephone Orders Filled by Expert Shoppers
Ss
man, wou tv-o.
flerchandise effc Merit OnkT
Home Phone A 6691
Pacific Phone Marshall 5000
woman IS DRA1NG
Driving of Ambulance in Wan
Becomes Too Tame. '-
HEAVIER DUTY IS SOUGHT
EX-PRESIDENT TAFT RESTS
Vacation to Be Given Over to Golf
and Deep-Sea Fishing.
SAN DIEGO, Cal., Sept. 20. Ex-Pres-Ident
William Howard Taft. who has
been in California for two weeks, re
turned to San riego today for a vaca
tion of eight days. He is accompanied
by Mrs. Taft and their daughter Helen.
The ex-President will pass his vaca
tion playing golf and motoring in the
mountains. He also has expressed a
desire to try his luck at deep sea fish
ing. During his stay here it is prob
able that he will speak again at the
Panama-California Exposition.
Mrs. Iiartlett Boder, Artcr Thrill
ing Experiences at Front, Says
She Can Handle Truck as
Veil as Any Tommy.
NEW YORK, Sept. 14. Mrs. Bart'.ett
Boder, one of the first women to drive
an ambulance in the European- war,
has arrived in New York on a vaca
tion, after a thrilling year spent at
the front in France. She was reared
in New York, but after a vacation to
recover from the fatigue of exception
ally arduous service, she will return
to seek further duty with the armies
of the allies.
"Ambulance driving has its compensation's,"-
she said today. "It is hard
work and it is often dangerous, but
there is a splendid sense that one Is
doing something and who wants not
to be doing something in tremendous
times like these?
"However, I feel that I have been
graduated, as it were. I. am going
back before Christmas and I am going
to try to get a big supply truck to
drive. These trucks carry provisions
to the men at the front. I can han
dle one as well as any Tommy, I feel
sure."
Mme. Boder formerly was a singer
of prominence. She has been driving
out of the hospital bases of Roven and
Bologne, and brings back with her the
stories of many daring adventured and
hair-breadth escapes.
DUTCH BUY 20 WARPLANES
Tests or First Six So Satisfactory
Others Arc Ordered.
NEW YOrtK, Sept. 20. Twenty
American warplanes have just been
ordered by the Dutch government, ac-
AMERICAN WOMAN WHO HAS BEEN DRIVING WAR AMBULANCE
INSIDE OF BATTLE LINE IN FRANCE.
f - t Xi1fS? y- I IfQS
W: :V V A :
cording to a telegram received from
Los Angeles by the Aero Club of
America.
Th first order for six warplanes was
placed by the 19utch government two
months ago with the Glenn L. Martin
Company, of Los Angeles. Captain
Visscher and Lieutenant Ter Poorten,
of the Dutch flying corps, were sent
to Los Angeles to put the machines
through their tests.
The tests were so satisfactory that
an order for 20 machines was placed
immediately.
ROAD BARRED; SUIT FILED
KanelHT Accused In Action of Fell
ing Trees Before Auto.
HOOD RIVER, Or.. Sept. 20. (Spe
cial.) Alleging that George Fry, man
ager of El Corregidor Ranch, felled
trees across a roaa in front of his ma
chine and blocked the highway. Fred
Howe, a garage man, haa brought
suit for $500 against Mr. Frye and
Colonel N. F. Tucker, owner of the
property.
Mr. Howe -says the trouble arose
when he started for the G. M. Kirk
patrlck ranch on the road through the
Tucker property. The Tucker interests,
according to Mr. Howe, are disputing
with Mr. Klrkpatrtck over the rights
to a spring. The car was allowed to
enter but had to be abandoned on the
return, the complaint asserts.
VILLA PLEDGES AIO
Protection of Americans in
Mexico Is Promised.
NO REPRISALS IN STORE
Photo Copyright by Underwood,
MME. BAHTL E1T BODEIC
DEAD FROM F-4 ARRIVE
Four Identified Bodies to Be Sent to
Homes; Others Go to Arlington.
SAN FRANCISCO. Sept. 20. The
eight flag-draped caskets containing
the dead of the F-4. which arrived here
today aboard the United States steamer
Supply, will be shipped away tomor
row, the four Identified bodies to their
homes, tho fragmentary remains of 17
bodies to Arlington National Cemetery
at Arlington, Va.
There was no. ceremony, only the
baring of the heads of the few scat
tered about the United States trans
port docks.
The funeral ship, remaining out In
the stream for four hours, docked late
with the turn of the tide.
SEPARATE TRIAL IS ASKED
Defendant Objects to Being Ar
raigned AVitli Road's ex-Counsel.
NEvV YORK. Sept. 20. Charles F.
Brooker, one of the defendants in the
Government suit against the New York,
New Haven & Hartford Railroad Com
pany, today asked Federal Judge Wil
liam H. Hunt for a separate trial.
Brooker gave as a reason that he
did not want to-be arraigned with Ed
ward D. Robblns, former council of the
New Haven road, alleged to have
sanctioned the acquisition of the sub
sidiaries which has created the al
leged monopoly denounced by the indictment.
Three Postoffices to Advance.
OREGONIAN NEWS BUREAU, Wash
ington, Sept. 20. The following post
offices will advance October 1 from
fourth class to presidential grade, due
to an. Increase In postal receipts Ore
gon, Myrtle Creek. Washington, Coulee
City. Hartline and Tonasket.
General Sends Word That He- Re
grots Action in Ordering Consuls
Out or Territory Controlled by
Him, but Offers to Help.
Vn7ASIirXGTO:V- Se- 2 General
Villa today authorized his Washington
agent. Enrique C. Llorente. to issue a
statement promising protection to
Americans and other foreigners in Mex
ican territory controlled by him.
There have been reports that foreign
ers would suffer as a result of the out
come of the Pan-American conference
at New York, forecasting recognition
of Carranza, and the recent renewed
warning to Americans to leave the
fighting zones of Northern Mexico.
"General Villa wishes to state em
phatically," Mr. Llorente said, "that
while he regrets measures taken by the
United States and Great Britain in or
dering consuls and nationals out of ter
ritory controlled by the convention
government in the northern part of the
republic, he will take special pains to
care for the lives and property of all
Americans and other foreigners who,
by special circumstance, have not yet
been able to comply with the advice
of their governments.
"It is considered opportune at this
time to state furthermore that the
army under General Villa's command is
capable of maintaining order in the
territory it controls and that even in
case of actual fighting in that terri
tory between the two factions there
will be no danger to peaceful inhabi
tants." Advices to the State Department re
ceived late today said the evacuation
of Torreon by the Villa forces was pro
ceeding and was expected to be com
pleted yesterday. September 19. A
number of Americans who did not ac
company the American consular officer
from Durango several days ago were
said to have left later overland for
Torreon.
BELGIAN ACCEPTS POST
Professor Van Den Vcn Will Lecture
at Princeton.
PRrXCETON", N. J.. Sept. 20. It was
announced today that Professor P. Van
Den Ven. formerly of the University
of Louvain. Belgium, had accepted an
invitation to become the Spencer Trask
lecturer at Princeton University for the
coming year. He will give graduate
courses in Byzantine history and art.
Professor Van Den Ven was a refu
gee from Louvain at the outbreak of
the war and. after re-tching England,
became a member of the faculty at
Cambridge. He recently came to this
country.
GoldMedal
Products f (Usai
ANY way you turn on city
streets or country roads,
you're almost certain to
find Standard Oil Company
Stations.
This means that no matter where
you tour on the Coast, you can
go every foot of the way orr the
oil,, and gas that won highest
honors, P. P. I. E. gold medals
for efficiency, for uniformity,
for quality Zerolene, the stan
dard oil for motor cars, and Red
Crown, the gasoline of quality.
Slanclar
Oil
Gmpan
i row i m
Mail and Telephone Orders Filled by Expert Shoppers
Merchandise cfcj Merit tOnly"
Pacific Phone Marshall 5000
Home Phone A-6691
Black Plush Forms the Only Trimming on These
Handsome Baby Lamb Coats, $18.50
(Saltz. Baby Lamb)
Everyone knows the wonderful quality of Saltz fabrics
their extreme style and durability. As well as being fash
ioned from the finest material, these coats possess a wonderful
amount of style their cut, their silk lining, their finished tai
loring will appeal to the woman who knows.
Made in the very latest 48-inch length, good and full.
effectively trimmed with a wide band of plush all around
the bottom of the coat to correspond with the collar and
cuffs, and button trimming, also of plush. Third Floor
Fascinating Millinery at $9.95
Lyons Velvet and Last-Minute Styles
Made ven; smart
With ostrich feathers k
W ilh steel or jet beads e' i-
Ur:iL t .V.. I L.VJ. ".iiifc
rr i Li i J LiilL-lj UI u ll Li o
With artistic fruit y'
With Tvings and borvs J J
With ribbon bindings
You cannot imagine more lovely or tempting millinery styles
they were just made to wear with Autumn suits. Shapes galore
small, medium, large, straight, three-cornered, flared and curled
brims, shirred, shaped and soft crowns. Black is the predominating
color, although there are many in the deep, dark greens, browns and
blues now so much worn. Third Floor
"Verilbest BloiLSGS
Have taken their inspiration from much
higher-priced models and well, they have
"copied," too. You would haadly expect
to find such good-looking styles at $ 1 .00,
yet they are here long or short-sleeved
blouses, with collars that you can button high
in military style, or leave comfortably open. Embroidered and lace
trimmed models, of fine, soft voiles, and dainty sheer organdies. Finely
tucked, hemstitched and .button-trimmed styles, any number of them,
fresh and new for your selection Tuesday. Third Floor
Two NewNainsook Envelope Chemise
Special $1.19
Regular Price $1.65
Very fine quality nainsook, made in
envelope chemise style, Empire models,
trimmed with the finest of Valenciennes
lace edging and insets of lace or lace me
dallions. Finished with cunning bows of
satin ribbon.
These models are shown in the accom
panying illustration. Fourth Floor
Wonderful 56-Inch
Broadcloth
$2.50 Yd.
Without a doubt broadcloth is
the most fashionable of all fabrics
for this season's wear.
This is fine chiffor broadcloth,
sponged and shrunk, ready
for use. This same quality is used
by exclusive tailors and dressmak
ers in every large city in the coun
try. It comes in wonderful shades of
African brown, Russian green,
field mouse, midnight blue, taupe.
Burgundy, helio and rich black.
Full 56 inches in width and a
real broadcloth.
Second Floor
New Gloves
FOR AUTUMN WEAR
Washable Kassan,
made of leather that
washes perfectly. A
practical street glove.
In pearl or oak shades .$1.50
Harrison Reindeer
Fabric (a new ship- J:
ment). They have all f,,"
the appearance of doe
or mocha and are
much more satisfac
tory, in washing and
wearing qualities.
White and gray $1.00
Reindeer Duplex, a
very clever new glove,
in gray only. 2 clasps.
fancy embroidered
backs ,
50c
First Floor
What's New in the Trimming Section
Plaid Chiffon, very smart and extremely new for blouses, 42
inches wide, at yard. $1.75.
Striped Silk Nets, in black, white and evening shades, 42 inches
wide, yard $1.50.
Ombre Silk Tulle, shading from light to dark emerald, from
light to dark rose, from pale to dark blue, and from light to dark
yellow. 38 inches wide, and $1.75 yard.
Silk Tulle Nets, so much in demand, in black, white and beau
iiful evening shades, 72-inch, at $1.75. First Floor
" ' i-- - -.
0NLY5M0REDAYS
Com Knrly nnri Avoid the Crowds
the I.att of the Week.
REDLCKI) PRICKS.
Daily Matinee at 2 P. M.
MAT1NKK PRICES.
A!' ic-a ts. 'Jk- ; Unx Sea 16. 7Tv.
KVEMNG PRICES,
l.owt-r Kloor, ."ic ; Balcony, 2.V'
Box Seat.s. $1.0-J.
A II i?tat3 Unserved.
IMionp Main 1.
A 1 1
1
PHONE YOUR WANT ADS TO
THE OREGONIAN
Main 7070
A 6095
The Original
MALTED MILK
Unloaa you may "HORlCtC S
You may get a Substitute
IAwiLraedGold llcdai San Irmcuco Expositio
th hiyit honor on Imported 01jr OiT I